4.2e Textiles
Nature and Aims of Design
Nature of Design
The continuing evolution of the textiles industry provides a wide spread of applications from high-performance technical textiles to the more traditional clothing market. More recent developments in this industry require designers to combine traditional textile science and new technologies leading to exciting applications in smart textiles, sportswear, aerospace and other potential areas. (2.2)
Aims
Aim 5: There are many ethical considerations attached to the production of natural fibers. The strongest natural silk known to man is harvested from silk spiders and notoriously difficult to obtain, and labour intensive. In an effort to produce higher yields, scientists have altered the genome of goats so that they produce the same silk proteins in their milk.
Guidance
As DP Design Technology student you should:
Concepts and principles:
Raw materials for textiles
Properties of natural fibres
Properties of synthetic fibres
Conversion of fibres to yarns
Conversion of yarns into fabrics: weaving, knitting, lacemaking, and felting
Recovery and disposal of textiles
Guidance:
Properties of wool, cotton and silk
Properties of nylon, polyester and Lycra®
Consider absorbency, strength, elasticity and the effect of temperature
Design contexts in which different types of textiles are used
Concepts and Principles
Key Terms
Fibers, Yarns, Threads, & Fabric
Fibers are the raw form. They are often used in the manufacture of other materials, called composites. They can be processed into long forms called yarns.
Yarn is a long, continuous fiber
Threads are thin yarns used in sewing, either by machine or hand.
Fabric is created by cloth produced by weaving, knitting, or felting.
Types of Textiles
Natural Fibers
Synthetic Fibers
Properties
High Absorbency
Low Tensile Strength
Low Elasticity
Effect of high temperature: will burn but does not melt.
Low Absorbency
High Tensile Strength
High Elasticity
Effect of temperature : will burn and melt.
Examples and Common Use Cases
Wool
Originates from sheep. Commonly used in clothing such as socks, and suits
Highly insulative and often used in sweaters and blankets. Noted for it's ability to retain heat even when wet.
Wool's high durability make it ideal for upholstery coverings for furniture and rugs.
Wool's high absorbency makes it ideal in industrial applications such as padding and cleaning up hazardous liquids.
Sheep being sheared to remove wool
Technical wool
iomerino specializes in highperformance sportswear that takes advantage of merino wool's unique quality.
Cotton
Perhaps the most common natural fiber. Comes from the cotton plant.
Much clothing, bedding and furniture coverings is made from cotton
Cotton plant
Silk
Natural fiber made from silk cocoon. Particularly prized for its strength and lightweight - it is the strongest of all natural fibers.
Thermal properties make it cool in summer and warm in winter. Very smooth and light to the touch. Common uses include shirts, dresses, and undergarments. It is also used in bedding and upholstery.
Its strength makes it ideal for medical uses such as sutures (stiches)
It's relatively high cost means it is often used in specialized or luxury goods.
Nylon
Nylon is a synthetic fiber derived from petrochemicals. Nylon's good abrasion resistance, low absorbance, and high elasticity make it an ideal choice for mass production.
In clothing, it is often used in outerware where its abrasion resistance and low absorbancy are ideal. It is also used in applications like stockings and socks where elasticity is also important.
Industrial uses include tents, ropes. Nylon is also used in tires to improve safety.
Polyester
Polyester is a versatile fabric that is strong, quick drying, resistant to stretching, and resists mold, mildew, and stains. It is also synthetic and derived from petrochemicals.
In clothing, polyester is commonly used in highpile insulative fabrics like Polarfleece™. It is also often mixed with other fibers.
Because of its strength, it is often used in very technical or demanding situations such as seatbelts, upholstery in high traffic situations (carpets in public spaces), sails, and fishing nets.
Video summary
Patagonia's "Patagonia Recycled Polyester" video showcases the company's early initiative to minimize the ecological footprint of their polyester clothing by lessening petroleum usage. This commitment led to the invention of the first recycled polyester fleece jacket in 1993, produced using discarded green soda bottles. Since then, Patagonia has eradicated the requirement for over 20,000 barrels of oil and kept millions of plastic bottles from winding up in landfills. The brand has broadened their utilization of recycled polyester to more advanced products, maintaining their dedication to environmental stewardship and adhering to strict standards for quality and functionality.
Lyrca
Lycra is a synthetic fiber derived from petrochemicals. It's definining characteristic is its very high elasticity.
Lycra is commonly used in clothing such as sportswear, underwear, and other close fitting contexts.
Video summary
This video discusses the role of lycra, specifically spandex, in competitive cycling. In the early 1900s, cyclists wore heavy and baggy clothes for sweat wicking but faced issues during slow climbs due to lack of airflow. Italian cyclists then adopted silk jerseys for lightweight advantages, but they weren't ideal for competitive cycling as they didn't hold color well. The game-changer arrived in the 1950s with the discovery of spandex, a material made up of long stretchy poly glycol molecules bonded to short rigid dyes. Spandex's unique property of expanding up to five times its length became a game-changer in athletic wear. It gained popularity during the 1968 Winter Olympics, and the French ski team famously wore full-body spandex suits. Cyclists appreciated its lightweight and non-degradable features, making it a must-have for sponsors to turn skin-tight suits into colorful branding tools. Despite being highly flammable, spandex has remained the preferred material for competitive cycling
Conversion of fibers to yarns
Conversion of natural fibers to yarns
Conversion of synthetic fibers to yarns
Conversion of yarns to fabrics
A fabric is a sheet of material, made out of yarns and fibers. Different processes will produce fabrics with different properties. The three processes are Weaving, Knitting, and Felting.
Weaving
Weaving is the process of interlocking yarns at right angles to create a fabric.
Knitting
Knitting is the process of manipulating yarn in multiple lines to create a tube. Knitted forms can be used for clothing.
Lacemaking
Lacemaking is the weaving of yarns and threads into delicate, open patterns. Typical
Felting
Felting is the process of creating a fabric by compressing and matting fibers together. Felted fabrics can be quite dense as the fibers are laid down in random, densely packed nature.
Felted fibers are made from natural wool and synthetic fibers.
Recovery and disposal of textiles
Ethical Considerations
Labor intensive and poor working conditions: Most raw material production and textile manufacturing takes place in developing countries, using low-skilled labor and under poor working conditions.
Treatment and Genetic modification of plants and animals: The genome of goats has been modified by scientists to produce the same silk protein.
Environmental Considerations
Raw materials: Chemicals and pesticides used in the production of natural fibers like cotton can have a huge environmental impact. Most synthetic fibers are petroleum (oil) based. Cotton also requires a huge amount of water to grow.
Manufacturing: Dyeing (coloring), and manufacturing of textiles relies on a range of chemicals and energy intensive processes. Poor regulation in some countries means that toxic chemicals are released into the environment without treatment.
Transportation: Due to many textiles being manufactured in one region and sold in another, the carbon footprint associated with transportation can be large.
Consumer Care: The regular cleaning of textiles requires water, cleaning chemicals, and energy.
Article: Sustainability of Viscose