98. Whitman Crest, 9323' (C)

This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.

Whitman Crest is an easy glacier climb that requires an overnight, though we have heard of strong climbers doing it in a day. Full glacier climbing gear is needed for safely crossing the Fryingpan Glacier. The crest is named in honor of Marcus Whitman, a missionary who, along with his wife and twelve others, was murdered in 1847 near Walla Walla.

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Driving

Drive SR 410 4.5 miles south of the Crystal Mountain ski area turnoff and turn right on Sunrise Park Road. Drive 4.5 miles, until you cross the Fryingpan River Bridge. Park just beyond the bridge on the right side of the road. The Summerland trailhead is on the west side of the road.

Route

Hike the Summerland Trail to the shelter at 5960'. From the shelter, head southwest at a bearing of approximately 220 degrees, ascending the best terrain. Stay to the right of a rocky cliff band. We suggest going up a grassy treed rib on the right of the rocky cliff band. There are climber paths heading up. At about 6800’ bear slightly to the left at an approximate bearing of 170 until gaining a low point on the ridge (elevation 7000’). Once over the ridge you will be in a large basin (snow-filled until late summer). Continue south (bearing approximately 150) to the low point on the next ridge, which connects Meany Crest to Peak 7573’. From the ridge, turn right until reaching the flat plateau (labeled 7573’ on the USGS map). When snow is present it is also possible to kick step up the snow directly to the plateau. Once on the plateau, a climber’s path leads to the best camping area - located on the southwest portion of the plateau. There are some wind walls (one is a giant slab of rock), and water is readily available all summer (in mid to late summer it may be necessary to climb onto the Fryingpan Glacier to get snow for melting). From the camping area on the plateau, follow the path down to the glacier and head in a southwesterly direction to a notch just left of Whitman Crest. From the notch, it is a short scramble to the top at 9323'. Proceed with caution as many of the rocks on the summit block are crumbly and unstable.

Comments

Glacier gear is needed for crossing the Fryingpan Glacier. A wonderful jaunt on the return trip to Meany Crest is to travel to the base of K Spire (well worth the extra effort).

Vital Statistics: Whitman Crest

• Skill: Glacier climbing

• Beauty: 9

• Effort: 10

• Round-trip distance: 13 miles

• Elevation gain: 5500'

• Total time: 14 hours

• Best season: July through August

• Equipment: Climbing gear, glacial gear, crampons