94. Unicorn Peak, 6971' (C)
This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.
Unicorn is an easy climb in the Tatoosh Range. The peak’s name is derived from a unique single horn off of the northern upper slope, evocative of a unicorn.
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Driving
From the Nisqually Entrance, drive to 1 mile beyond Narada Fall and turn right onto Stevens Canyon Road. Continue another 2 miles and park at the Snow Lake parking lot on the north side of the road.
Route
Start at the Snow Lake trailhead (4545') and hike past Snow Lake. At the upper basin of Snow Lake (a tarn is present in summer), at 4715', head up the gully with bearing of 231 degrees. In the upper gully at 5215', change bearing to 201. Head to the upper basin and at 5720', change bearing to 150. At the saddle west of Unicorn, at 6605', head east toward the south ridge of Unicorn. Continue up mostly class 3 climbing to the summit. From the summit, rappel down.
Comments
There may be steep, hard snow in the gully from Snow Lake, on the north approach. Be prepared with crampons and ice ax. Unicorn is a climb and should not be attempted unless you have proper training and equipment. We recommend early season in order to avoid climbing on talus and to be able to climb on softer snow.
Vital Statistics: Unicorn Peak
Skill: Rock climbing
Beauty: 7
Effort: 7
Round-trip distance: 5 miles
Elevation gain: 2600'
Total time: 7 hours
Best season: June through September, or first snow
Equipment: Climbing gear, helmet, crampons, rappel gear, 50 meter rope
Unicorn Peak Topo
(use CalTopo to print PDF topo, view Google Earth, download tracks, for trailhead weather) [How to ?]
Unicorn Peak Photos
Route to gain the south ridge
Final approach to Unicorn