80. Sluiskin Mountain Chief, 7026' (C)

This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.

Sluiskin Chief can be combined with Sluiskin Squaw. The Chief is a climb, with a class 4 pitch and a rocky, exposed slab near the summit. Because of the Carbon River Road washout, the Chief becomes a formidable day climb. You can camp at Windy Gap, which is a beautiful spot (assuming it isn’t too windy)—a backcountry permit is required. Sluiskin is named after the Indian guide on the Stevens and Van Trump expedition in 1870. Sluiskin has three prominent peaks: the tallest is the Chief, the next tallest is the Squaw, and a smaller peak to the northwest is the Papoose.

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Driving

Drive to the Carbon River Entrance and park in the small parking area by the old ranger station. The road is closed here owing to massive flooding and washouts in 2006.

Route

Bike approximately 5 miles (one-way with 600’ of gain) on the washed-out road (you will have to walk your bike at times) until you reach the Ipsut Creek Trailhead at the end of the road. The one-way bike trip to the trailhead will climb 600’ and takes about 60 minutes. From the trailhead (elevation 2330'), hike 1.7 miles to the trail leading to the lower crossing over the Carbon River. Cross the Carbon River and head up the Northern Loop Trail, passing the spur to Yellowstone Cliffs Camp. Continue past the footpath to Tyee until you reach Windy Gap at 5825'. Continue on the trail. (You will pass the trail to Natural Bridge 0.1 mile beyond Windy Gap.) About 0.3 mile past Windy Gap, leave the trail at 5525’ and descend to the creek at approximately 5320’. Cross the creek and begin to head up the gully leading to the saddle at 6500', between Sluiskin Chief and the Squaw. Snow will be encountered in the gully in early season and maybe into late summer. You may be able to avoid snow by hiking up the heather benches to the east and then onto talus to the saddle. From the saddle, you can scramble an easy slope west to the Squaw or you can climb the more challenging route east to the Chief. The Chief is a climb, as it has a short class 4 pitch near a “notch” in the route and some exposed rock near the summit.

There are two routes to the Chief (see photo for approximate routes):

One goes up the northeast face to a notch. There are rappel slings at the notch. Once through the notch (class 4) you can easily see the route right to the summit, which is all class 4 climbing.

The other route goes up the northeast arrete (ridge). From the saddle, there is a faint climber's trail that is hard to follow over the talus between heather, but it does lead to the start of the class 4 scramble. It isn't necessary to find the climber's path: just head east (or slightly northeast) toward the northeast arrete of the Chief. Just before the actual arrete (if you go to the arrete, you can look over but don't descend there), there are a series of benches to scramble up about 50 feet to the arrete. Some parties will rope up and belay here. Right on the arrete make one move left, which is exposed, and climb up the class 4 along the arrete or just to the right of it. There may be rappel slings about 50 feet up. There is about a 6-foot vertical move with nice footsteps, which then again leads to easy scrambling to the notch. Many rappel slings are usually here. From this point you can easily see the route right to the summit, which is all class 4 climbing from here and just to the left of the arrete. (Thanks to Gretchen Lentz for assistance with the route description.)

Comments

Both peaks can be climbed in one day, though it would be a killer day. The combined peaks make for a long distance with a lot of elevation gain, not to mention that you have to carry climbing rope and protection. Attempting the duo is especially challenging now because of the extra 5.5 miles one-way on the washed-out Carbon River Road.

Vital Statistics: Sluiskin Chief

• Skill: Rock climbing

• Beauty: 10

• Effort: 10

• Round-trip distance: 15.6 miles, plus 11 miles on washed-out road (Chief); 16 miles (Chief and Squaw)

• Elevation gain: 5200', not counting washed-out road (Chief); 5600' (Chief and Squaw)

• Total time: 13 hours, 14 hours for both

• Best season: June through September, or first snow

• Equipment: Climbing gear, helmet, 50 meter rope, minimal protection

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Sluiskin Chief Mountain