49. Little Tahoma Peak, 11,138' (C)
This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.
Little Tahoma is a very challenging peak that should only be attempted by experienced climbers. It requires an overnight, usually spent on the Meany Crest plateau above the Fryingpan Glacier. Full glacier climbing gear, glacier gear, and helmets are strongly recommended. Tahoma was a name given by local Indians to what was subsequently named Mount Rainier. The “little” adjective is for obvious reasons.
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Driving
Drive SR 410 4.5 miles south of the Crystal Mountain ski area turnoff and turn right on Sunrise Park Road. Drive 4.5 miles, until you cross the Fryingpan River Bridge. Park just beyond the bridge on the right side of the road. The Summerland trailhead is on the west side of the road.
Route
Take the Summerland Trail (elevation 3900') to about 5850' (approximately 100 yards before the shelter), and leave the trail. Climb in the approximate direction of Meany Crest, staying to the left of a stream and following the best terrain. You are actually aiming for the ridge to the west of Meany Crest. Camp on the flat area west of Meany Crest (head for 7573' on the USGS map to find the flat area). There are some wind walls, and water is readily available all summer (it may be necessary to climb onto the Fryingpan Glacier to get meltwater). From the campsite (at or near 7573' on the USGS map), head in a southwesterly direction to the notch at 9000'. Climb through the notch (easy), to where you are on the Whitman Glacier. Traverse underneath cliffs on the right (helmet recommended) for approximately 0.25 mile, and then ascend a steep snow finger (pickets recommended) to the rock. Depending on the season, you can ascend straight to the rock, or to a flat shoulder on climbers left, and then to the rock of Little Tahoma. At around 10,500', ascend a short class 3 rock gully and continue on (hopefully) snow or loose talus, generally toward climbers right. At approximately 10,900', bear left through a notch to gain the west side of the south ridge. Ascend rightward toward summit. There is a short exposed and unprotectable traverse to the true summit, which is only a few feet higher than the rest of the summit ridge. The Mountaineers considers it a successful climb to reach the spot just before the traverse. Those wishing to cross the traverse and reach the true summit should be comfortable with exposure. The summit has spectacular views of Mounts Rainier, Adams, and Hood, as well as many other Washington peaks. Descend the climbing route, perhaps running a hand line down the class 3 gully.
Comments
Early July is a good time to climb Little Tahoma, as snow is likely to be present high up on the route. Be particularly cautious of rockfall.
Vital Statistics: Little Tahoma Peak
Skill: Glacier and rock climbing
Beauty: 10
Effort: 10
Round-trip distance: 16 miles
Elevation gain: 8000'
Total time: 20 hours
Best season: July through August
Equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear, including helmet and pickets
Little Tahoma Peak Topo
(use CalTopo to print PDF topo, view Google Earth, download tracks, for trailhead weather) [How to ?]
Little Tahoma Photo
Meany Crest, Whitman Crest, and Little Tahoma viewed from Sunrise