21. Castle Peak, 6120' (S)

Castle Peak is a pleasant, relatively short scramble that climbs a craggy-looking peak located near Mowich Lake. Castle Peak should not be confused with The Castle, which is located in the central portion of the Tatoosh Range.

The peak’s name comes from the mountain’s resemblance to a castle.

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Driving

Drive almost to the end of Mowich Lake Road and park where the road first comes to the lake on the east side of the road. Note that the road to Mowich Lake usually does not open until July 4, some years even later.

Route

From the parking area, look for a short spur trail leading to the trail along the west side of the lake. Head north toward Ipsut Pass. Shortly after leaving Mowich Lake, head in a northeasterly direction until 5300', and then head east to a col at 5920'. This hillside becomes somewhat steep as it nears the col. From the saddle at 6000', two rocky outcrops are visible to the north, close at hand, of which the more distant is Castle Peak. A well-defined boot track leads to a ledge that bypasses the nearer one on the right, with one rocky step. From the col separating the two outcrops, the boot path continues up steeply, now on the left side, closely below the cliffs of Castle Peak. At the top of a talus field, the route improbably slides through a slot to gain the nearly level summit ridge. The northeast summit, labeled “Castle Peak 6110,” is an easy stroll; the probably slightly higher southwest summit (6120') requires a short scramble to cross a notch. Either may be considered the summit.

Comments

Castle Peak can combined with First Mother for a two-peak outing. Though we have not done the route following are notes from Gordy Smith:  Regarding the ridge between Castle and First Mother, there was scrambling around small rock towers as we approached First Mother. Sometimes we would think there was not an easy scramble along or near the ridge, and would try the trees on the west slope. Every time we tried the trees, it was super dense and steep, and we would go back to the ridge or a few feet from the ridge and find a goat path along the ridge.  

It is also possible to climb Castle Peak, Tolmie, and Howard in a day.

Vital Statistics: Castle Peak

• Skill: Moderate scramble

• Beauty: 6

• Effort: 5

• Round-trip distance: 5 miles

• Elevation gain: 1500'

• Total time: 5 hours

• Best season: May through September or first snow

• Equipment: Scramble gear, helmet recommended

(use CalTopo to print PDF topo, view Google Earth, download tracks, for trailhead weather) [How to ?]

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