20. Castle, The, 6440' (C)
This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.
The Castle is located across from Paradise in the central Tatoosh Range. The Castle is not to be confused with Castle Peak near Mowich Lake. The Castle is a climb; it has some class 3 and class 5 climbing as well as a rappel. The Castle can be approached via a west or east route. The peak’s name comes from its castle-like appearance.
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Driving
From the Nisqually Entrance, drive to 1 mile beyond Narada Falls and turn right onto Stevens Canyon Road. Continue another 1.5 miles and park at the Reflection Lake parking lot on the north side of the road (elevation 4870').
Route
There are two routes to The Castle and both leave from the Pinnacle Peak trailhead across from the Reflection Lake parking lot.
West route: The west route goes up the Pinnacle Peak Trail to the saddle just west of Pinnacle Peak. From the saddle, traverse east on a way trail toward The Castle. You will see a sharp rocky ridge heading south from The Castle. This ridge needs to be crossed to reach the summit block. To cross the ridge, there is a high option and a low option. The high option crosses high (approximately 6200') on a way trail that culminates in a short class 3 shallow gully on good rock. This gully has good handholds and the exposed portion is less than 30'. The low option descends to approximately 5800' to avoid the rocky outcroppings. For the low option, once over the ridge head north on moderately steep meadows to the base of The Castle.
East route: This route is more off-trail, as it leaves the Pinnacle Peak Trail at 5200' and ascends to the saddle just east of The Castle. After leaving the trail at 5200', follow a bearing of 147. There are way trails leading to the saddle. In spring, particularly if there is avalanche risk, it is best to stay on the ridge to the left (east) of the basin. From the saddle, head west on the ridge a short distance until reaching the base of the summit.
Summit: From the base of The Castle there are several likely routes to the top. All appear to involve low class 5 climbing. We highly recommend rappel gear. The summit block is small and can only hold only several people.
Comments
If you plan to only climb The Castle, we suggest going up and down the east route, as it is easier and avoids having to cross the rocky south ridge. If you plan to climb Pinnacle as well, it is probably best to go up the west route and return via the east route. It would also be possible to add Foss for a two-fer or three-fer.
Vital Statistics: The Castle
Skill: Rock climbing
Beauty: 8
Effort: 8
Round-trip distance
West route: 4 miles
East route: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 2300'
Total time: 4 hours
Best season: May through September
Equipment: Climbing gear, including helmet, 50 meter rappel rope, 25' runners/cords for rap anchor
The Castle Topo
(use CalTopo to print PDF topo, view Google Earth, download tracks, for trailhead weather) [How to ?]
The Castle Photo
The Castle as seen from Plummer Peak