83. Stevens Peak, 6560' (S)

Stevens Peak is a prominent peak located at the eastern end of the Tatoosh Range. It can be approached from the north (via the Snow Lake Trail) or from the south (from outside the park). The north approach is challenging primarily because of steep portions, while the south approach is longer and gains more elevation but is technically less challenging. Stevens Peak is named after General Hazard Stevens, who along with P. B. Van Trump was the first to climb Rainier in 1870.

_________________________________ 

Driving

There are two routes to Stevens Peak. We prefer the south approach.

North approach: From the Nisqually Entrance, drive to 1 mile beyond Narada Falls and turn right onto Stevens Canyon Road. Continue another 2 miles and park at the Snow Lake parking lot on the north side of the road.

South approach: Drive toward the Nisqually Entrance and approximately 3.5 miles past Ashford, turn right on Skate Creek Road (FS 52). Travel for about 19 miles and turn left on FS 5270, reaching the trailhead in about 7 miles. (See Tatoosh CalTopo for a map of the road approach.)

Route

North approach: From the Snow Lake trailhead (elevation 4545'), hike past Snow Lake. At the upper basin of Snow Lake (a tarn is present in summer), at 4715', head up the gully with a bearing of 231 degrees. In the upper gully at 5215', change bearing to 201. Head to the upper basin and at 5720' change bearing to 150. At the saddle west of Unicorn, at 6605', change bearing to 73. Continue east a short distance to the shoulder of Unicorn (approximately 6880') and then change bearing to 155 and follow ridge heading toward Boundary. At the low point on the ridge between Boundary and Unicorn (approximately 6645') travel carefully down traversing on best terrain to reach the Stevens-Boundary saddle at 5800'.Descend slightly into the basin (which is southeast of the ridge) staying below any rocky outcrop. Continue on easy terrain heading toward southeast ridge of Stevens and from there it is an easy jaunt to the summit.

South approach: Start at Trailhead 161 at 2925'. In 0.4 mile, begin a series of switchbacks, ending at 3990'. At approximately 5400', come to a junction with an abandoned trail—go left. Descend 200' to 5230'. Once you attain the ridge (at approximately 5700') southeast of Boundary, continue on this ridge (at a general bearing of 335). At approximately 6115', descend into the basin and head toward a saddle between Boundary and Stevens at 5800'. Ascend the ridge to Stevens, staying on the south side of the ridge.

Comments

We recommend the south approach which, though longer, is easier and safer. If you choose the north approach, there may be steep, hard snow in the gully from Snow Lake. Be prepared with crampons and ice ax. There is also a very steep section east of the Boundary-Unicorn saddle.

Vital Statistics: Stevens Peak

• Skill: Difficult scramble

• Beauty: 8

• Effort: 8

• Round-trip distance

  • North approach:  7.2 miles

  • South approach: 11.8 miles

• Elevation

  • North approach: 4000'

  • South approach: 4400'

• Total time

  • North approach: 7 hours

  • South approach: 10 hours

• Best season: June through September, or first snow

• Equipment: Scramble gear, crampons (especially for north approach)

(use CalTopo to print PDF topo, view Google Earth, download tracks, for trailhead weather) [ How to ?]

Peakbagger

Flickr photos

Facebook 100 Peaks

NWAC

Stevens Peak Photos