56. Mother Mountain, Second, 6375' (S)

This peak is far more challenging than First Mother. Route finding is a challenge, and we recommend attempting Second Mother in good weather. Mother Mountain’s name is descriptive of the outline of a woman on the northeastern summit, silhouetted against the sky as seen from the Carbon River Trail.

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Driving

Drive almost to the end of the Mowich Lake Road and park where the road first comes to the lake. Look for the spur trail labeled Tolmie Peak and park the car on the side of the road. The road to Mowich Lake usually does not open until July 4, some years even later.

Route

From the road, look for a short spur trail, Tolmie Peak, leading to the trail along the west side of the lake. Leave the trail at the first switch back after it starts to rise away from the lake (approximately 5100’). Head east with a rising traverse, heading to the 6000’ saddle between First Mother and Castle Peak. There is a boot trail but it is easy to lose (easier to find on the descent). Continue east, descending from the saddle and heading to an unnamed lake (elevation 5100’). Traverse north or south around the lake (whichever is easier depending on conditions). From the lake, head mostly east toward a saddle at 5800’. (There is a pinnacle on the NW side of this saddle). At the 5800’ saddle, you might need to descend a talus field a bit to find the easiest travel and then regain lost elevation. Stay at approximately 5800’; continue traversing mostly east for about a mile. This includes traversing through rock bands (we crossed between 1st and 2nd bands). Don’t go up too soon to a saddle—continue around a “corner” to a large, open basin (talus in late summer). You will come to a small alpine tarn below Second Mother. Gain the ridge to the left of the summit (over talus or steep snow). Travel around a corner and drop around 30 feet. After passing through this notch, then start a rising traverse to the left. When you are about 80’ horizontal distance from the notch, you should be about back up to the elevation of the notch. Then look for a vegetated gully leading back up to the crest of the north ridge.  Go over to the loose rock and dirt to find a way up on a boot path. You’ll have to go over a 4-5 foot large step. In general, traverse toward the summit, climbing up trees and loose rocks. You will likely encounter several large steps and may need occasional tree belays. Beyond this section, it is an easy scramble to the top. You may need to remove packs in order to pass through some trees very close to the top. (Thanks to Grace Parker and Ken Wells for assistance with the route description.) 

Another option (particularly if no or little snow is present) is described by Gordy Smith:  From the lake head mostly east following the lowest angle terrain to 5400’  and traverse left (north).  At or slightly below 5400' traverse around the large tower/pinnacle (about 600' above you). At the north side pick your way through a short stretch of talus to reach gentle heather slopes east of the tower/pinnacle toward the left side of the open basin.  As the slopes steepen at around 5800’ look for a gap between clumps of trees and find a boot path that traverses north to an open heather bench.  Follow this bench rising as needed to avoid the cliff below eventually reaching 5900’ and drop across the outlet of a small tarn located about 300 yards west of the summit.    Look for  the highest gully that ascends to the north ridge of the summit.   After crossing through the notch drop 30 ft and traverse right following description in the above paragraph.      

Comments

Of the three Mothers, we think Second Mother is the most enjoyable.

Vital Statistics: Second Mother Mountain

• Skill: Difficult scramble

• Beauty: 5

• Effort: 8

• Round-trip distance: 7.5 miles

• Elevation gain: 3300'

• Total time: 8 hours

• Best season: Mid-July through September or first snow

• Equipment: Scramble gear