57. Mother Mountain, Third 5804' (S-C)

This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.

Third Mother is an unpleasant trip because of brush bashing. If you are determined to climb it, the best time is in spring, when snow covers the worst of the brush in the valley. Views are minimal and we can think of ninety-eight more pleasant destinations at Rainier. This trip is also more challenging owing to the 5.5-mile washout of the Carbon River Road. Mother Mountain’s name is descriptive of the outline of a woman on the northeastern summit, silhouetted against the sky as seen from the Carbon River Trail.

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Driving

Drive to the Carbon River Entrance and park in the small parking area by the old ranger station. The road is closed here owing to massive flooding and washouts in 2006.

Route

Bike the approximately 5.5 miles (one-way) on the washed-out road (you will have to walk your bike at times) until you reach the Carbon River trailhead near the Ipsut Creek Campground (closed because of the flooding in 2006). The one-way bike trip to the trailhead takes about 50 minutes. Hike from the trailhead (elevation 2330'), and turn right in 0.3 mile onto the Wonderland Trail. Pass a stream in about 0.5 mile and continue past the stream for about 10 yards. Leave the trail at this point (approximately 2760') and head SE up the hillside, keeping the stream about 100 yards to the left (or follow the best terrain). You will come to a cliff band at 3600'. Here comes the crux of the route finding: At the cliff band, turn right. Following the base of the cliff band for several hundred yards, you will come to a gap in the cliff (it was marked with flags many years ago, but the flags may not be there now). Climb up through this gap (easy going), coming to a ridge top and a shrub-and-tree-filled basin. This is the second crux of the climb. Brush-bash through this basin and reach the col to the right of the summit. From the col, traverse on the back (east) side of the peak for a final steep gully near the summit. You may wish to belay this gully. From the top of the gully traverse to the summit. 

Alternate route (see Comments below):  An alternate route shown is shown in a black line on the topo map.  This route was kindly provided by Brett Dyson and Ian Cox from a climb in May, 2018 and shows their GPS track. The description below is edited from Gretchen Lentz, Grace Parker, and Susan Rowen's climb in June, 2018 climb and from Ian and Brett's notes:   

Leave the trail just before the stream at approximately 2760 ft and head southeast uphill with stream audible on the right.  Follow game trails as much as possible to an open basin at approximately 3600'.   There are no cliff bands on this route.  It was useful to have a waypoint at 3600'.  Head SE then SSE and then SE again and avoid ascending too quickly.  You'll eventually break out into an open talus slope around 4700 ft. Follow a gently rising traverse to the right, staying at the base of the talus field  before heading up the talus field to the saddle (climber's right of the summit).   Pass through the saddle to SE side and traverse to first gully (on climber's left).  Here you will find runners. Work your way up to the summit.     

Comments

Route finding is a challenge and you should track the route using GPS in order to find your way back; or you could place numerous flags to mark the route. We highly recommend spring as the best time to climb this peak as it will minimize brush-bashing. Most people would appreciate a belay in the gully near the summit. Be prepared with adequate climbing equipment. Thanks to Brett, Ian, Gretchen, Grace, and Susan for the alternate route which appears to be an easier route.

Vital Statistics: Third Mother Mountain

• Skill: Difficult scramble with a short "climbing" portion near the summit

• Beauty: 6 (but great views from the summit)

• Effort: 10

• Round-trip distance: 5.2 miles, plus 11 miles on washed-out road

• Elevation gain: 3500'

• Total time: 10 hours

• Best season: May through June

• Equipment: Minimal climbing gear, helmet, ice ax