26. Cowlitz Chimney, Main, 7605' (C)

This is a climb and is serious in places. It can be dangerous without requisite skills and equipment.

Main Cowlitz Chimney is one of our favorite peaks in the park. The peak looks intimidating and unclimbable, but in fact there is a safe route with relatively little exposure. Particularly useful is a rope on a narrow ledge and then a short belay for a short stretch in a gully. Main Cowlitz should be done as a separate trip and not combined with Central Cowlitz, unless you plan an overnight. Cowlitz was the name of an Indian tribe in the area. The Cowlitz River was mentioned by the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1804–1806, when the river was called the Coweliskee. Apparently the name means “capturing the medicine spirit.”

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Driving

Drive SR 410 4.5 miles south of the Crystal Mountain ski area turnoff and turn right on Sunrise Park Road. Drive 4.5 miles, until you cross the Fryingpan River Bridge. Park just beyond the bridge on the right side of the road. The Summerland trailhead is on the west side of the road.

Route

From the Summerland trailhead, travel the trail to Panhandle Gap. At the gap, take the boot trail heading left (east). Follow the broad open slope heading toward Banshee. From a saddle at 7020', travel at a bearing of 127 degrees and head into the basin. From the basin low point of 6735', head southeast past a hanging U-shaped gully. There is a belay tree just to the right of this gully. Continue a short distance beyond the U-shaped gully and ascend to a solitary fir tree, which is your next waypoint. From the lone fir tree, ascend about 30–50' to a horizontal line of short pine trees. Traverse on faint boot track back toward the U-shaped gully until exposure reaches class 3. At this point you are midway up the side of a cliff. To continue the traverse along a class 3 ledge to the belay tree, install a hand line (attached at both ends). A protection piece along the hand line is useful for anyone wishing to prusik along the line. Immediately above the belay tree is a short slanted chimney with a chockstone at the top. Some in the party may need a rope to get up it. On the way down, a rappel line may be useful. Our 8.5mm rope was 50 meter long and we left a single runner here. Proceed up, paralleling the right side of the U-shaped gully to near/on the ridge. In places you will notice a boot track. For the most part you are not in the U-shaped gully. Now do a slowly/moderate rising traverse around/across the U-shaped gully to the other side. You will be on rock interspersed with some scree. There are hints of a boot track in places. With some probing, you will come to a narrow slotted gully that will take you to the peak. After the slot, the gully widens. Near the top, multiple gullies will likely lead to the top. We climbed an easy class 2 gully with a snag near the top.

Comments

Bring helmets and be prepared for an exposed traverse of about 100–150', as well as a very steep stretch of gully. We recommend a rope, protection, harness, and helmet.

Vital Statistics: Main Cowlitz Chimney

• Skill: Rock climbing

• Beauty: 10

• Effort: 10

• Round-trip distance: 17 miles

• Elevation gain: 4800'

• Total time: 15 hours

• Best season: Mid-July through September

• Equipment: Climbing gear, including helmet, rope, protection, harness