82. Steamboat Prow, 9720' (S)
Steamboat Prow is on the ridge to the west of Mount Ruth. Park rangers headed to Camp Schurman will often take the ridge route to Steamboat Prow to avoid having to use glacier gear on the Inter Glacier. The elevation and mileage make Steamboat a very challenging day outing. Consider an overnighter at Camp Schurman (you will need a permit). The peak was named based on a description by I. C. Russell (of Russell Glacier): “because the pointed cliff appeared to be buffeting a sea of ice.”
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Driving
Drive SR 410 4.5 miles south of the Crystal Mountain ski area turnoff and turn right on Sunrise Park Road. Drive 5 miles and turn left on the road to the White River Campground, which you will reach in another 1.3 miles. Parking for hikers and climbers is located in the center of the campground.
Route
The trailhead for the Glacier Basin Trail is located at the western end of the campground. Take this trail and in about 3.5 miles you will come to the meadows of Glacier Basin. Cross the Inter Fork of the White River where it looks suitable and head up slope toward ridge above the Emmons Glacier. Turn right on the ridge and follow path to Ruth. If rocks are encountered, stay to the right. In summer there is a good footpath from Glacier Basin to the ridge and then to Ruth. From Ruth, continue east past Camp Curtis and follow the best route on the ridge heading to Steamboat Prow. Tom Girard and Jeff Panza report mostly an easy ridge walk, with one small class 3 section that has to be downclimbed on the way up.
It is also possible to reach Steamboat Prow via the Inter Glacier (northeast of the peak), but glacier travel is required and should only be attempted by climbers with glacier skills and gear. The Inter Glacier can be very icy especially in late summer. Be especially aware of rock fall on the glacier in late summer.
Comments
In spring, steep snow requires an ice ax on the ascent to Ruth. Sometimes good glissade conditions make for a speedy descent. We have not personally traversed from Ruth to Steamboat, but we have seen park rangers do the route in tennis shoes. We climbed Steamboat Prow from Camp Schurman after returning from a climb of the Big One. The usual route to Camp Schurman is via the Inter Glacier. This route however, ascends the glacier and is considered a glacier climb (rope, harness, and glacier gear required).
Vital Statistics: Steamboat Prow
Skill: Difficult scramble, glacier climb if via Inter Glacier
Beauty: 9
Effort: 10
Round-trip distance: 17 miles
Elevation gain: 5500'
Total time: 13 hours
Best season: June through September
Equipment: Scramble gear, glacier gear if via Inter Glacier
Steamboat Prow Topo
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