29 MAR - 8 AUG 1912
ARRIVE SYDNEY
29 March - Friday
Arrived at Sydney at 10 am, a heavy thunderstorm last night. Glad to get in, as the feminines, especially Olga over the screw, have been much capsized by the great vibration and motion. Glad to get back to the comforts of Admiralty House.
30 March - Saturday
This afternoon drove out with Lady Denman in carriage and outsider with escort, to the Centennial Park to witness the review of 18,000 Cadets by His Ex. On arrival the massed Bands received me with a March and the Officers saluted etc. We mounted the Dais, occupied already by a distinguished Company, and where my staff were awaiting me. Shortly afterwards HE arrived with a strong Staff and rode on the grounds and inspected the 6 Brigades, one being of Naval Cadets 650 strong.
Lord and Lady Massereene, Mrs Dixon, Archbishop Kelly, Barttelots and Miss Quick, German Consul General, Com. and Frau Bene of the Condor. I talked to them all.
The march past took place and most of the cadets marched very well, especially the naval contingent. At the end a downpour of rain came on, wetting every one very badly, except to those of us under the pavilion.
I can see that there is nothing between Captain Bruen and Miss Quick. She coloured up when he spoke to her and I saw that there was no longer that brightness between them. He did not speak to her much. I think he must have heard from her whilst away.
Bertie and Mabel married 1905.
31 March - Sunday
Attended Divine Service on board. Sermon five minutes, truth spoken, but the voice conveying it was hard and unsympathetic.
1 April - Monday
Letters from home. Micky gone to Canada, engaged to Miss Taylor. Ed. in Paris going to Switzerland. Lunched on board the new P & O Maloja. The G.G. the guest and some 3 to 400 others. Speeches made. Sir Kenneth Anderson, the Chairman of the Orient made a very clever one. I think he was a Senior Wrangler. Denman speaks quietly and quite good. She is a fine vessel. Captain Weston was with Bertie on board the Undaunted.
Olga and I walked in Sydney. Very warm walking.
2 April - Tuesday
Banked £180 in the Post Office Saving Bank, to cover Lou’s expenses for teeth, eyes and back and a little over towards the passage money.
Lady Chelmsford called on Olga, return official visit. Stayed an hour, heard Lou play. She was very pleasant.
3 April - Wednesday
German C. General and Staff called. Dr Schone, whom we met in N.Z. was one of them. Then Captain Zele, French, called. Returned call and drove out to the Agricultural Show Grounds to the lunch.
Sat on Denman’s right and had Sir Allen Taylor, Lord Mayor, on my right. Denman made a nice little speech, but Chelmsford made a most clever witty one, kept them all in roars of laughter.
At 3.30, the Vice Regal ladies having arrived, the Show was opened by G.G. and we wathed the ladies jumping etc, and after tea departed. Miss Suttor did the honours for her father, Sir Francis Suttor, the President of the Society. The Massereenes seem pleasant people.
4 April - Thursday
Took Lou to Physical Culture and had her examined. She requires toning up.
Olga and I had tea on board the Condor with Comd. and Mrs Bene. The new Comd. there, Morsman [?], son of the celebrated Professor in Berlin, who died 9 years ago, aged 86, and had 16 children.
Guns fired off etc.
Called on Mrs Drummond and Mrs Hoskyn. Olga needs toning up badly, poor dear, as her head aches after any talking.
5 April - Friday (Good Friday)
This day last year Olga and the children arrived at Sydney in the P & O Morea and this day in 1892 I was married to the sweetest and most loveable of women, since which we have spent, by God’s blessing, 20 years of a very happy married life together and I am thankful to say never a row between us of any kind. We have gone through trouble and vicissitudes of fortune together hand in hand, sharing with one another our joys and halving our sorrows.
I pray we may be spared together for another 20 years.
6 April - Saturday
A luncheon party of Germans to lunch. Consul General and Mrs Kiliani, Capt. and Mrs Bene of Condor and the new Captain, Comd. Morsman [?], one of 16 children of the late Professor, so well known in Germany, who died 9 years ago at 86. Miss Thornett also was one of the party. It went off very well. Bene good natured. Mrs Bene very cheery and bright. Mrs Kiliani very pleasant, partly Swedish, is Protestant. He is a Bavarian, a liberal R.C. We had a very pleasant talk together. Their little girl Mia, came over and played with Madge. Delightful to see them so enjoying themselves.
7 April - Easter Sunday
Very hot NE Wind. I went to St John’s with Olga and Flag Lieut and had to come out at the beginning of the Communion Service, as I was wet through from perspiration and began to feel chilly.
8 April - Easter Monday
Crowds to the Races and Agricultural Show. I remained quietly at home with Olga. We dined in the evening at the Federal Government House on being invested with the K.C.B. by the G.G. A dinner party of 34 given in our honour.
When all the guests were assembled, I and my staff stood opposite the dais, where Olga was and then the G.G. came in, in a procession and marched to the dais. The assembled guests ranged round the room. We advanced after my rank, etc. was read out, to the dais, all bowed, and I then took two steps forward, bowed again, and Denman put on my star and ribbon round my neck. I shook hands with him and Lady D. and then retired to adjust my neck tie.
G.G. took Olga and I took Her Ex into dinner. Melba was there and Massereuse [?]. He is very nice, she empty headed, so Gilpin-Brown says, who came out with her in P & O. Cullens, Griffiths, Bartons, etc. made up the party.
Olga looked very well.
10 April - Wednesday
Conference held in my Office, Mr Pearce (Minister of Defence) and Captain Chambers, 2nd member of Navy Board. Principal subjects discussed and settled. Challenger to go home. Encounter to be drill ship. Cambrian returns from China. Condition of Challenger and crew of Encounter going home. If Admiralty approve, Navy Board appoint me authority over their sea going ships. Admiralty to be asked that I may discuss War Orders. I laid great stress on the necessity of a War plan being adopted, so as to commence hostilities at a moment’s notice.
In discussing my successor I mentioned one or two men. I was then asked if I would step in. I said I must consider this and could not in any case for more than 6 months. It was then suggested that the Officer bringing the unit out, should act as my Chief of the Staff, and thus get into the knowledge of Australian methods and sentiments and at the end of six months succeed me as C-in-C. I have promised to consider all this, as soon as their proposals are sent in.
Mrs Drummond come to stay for ten days.
This evening Olga, self and Mrs D. went down to the Chelmsford’s At Home and made part of the procession. The Denmans and Fullers being there. By the new Agreement, I take precedence after visiting Governors.
I had a talk with Mr Fisher, the Federal Prime Minister, who agreed to all the arrangements that had been made at the Conference this morning, and said in reply to me that of course as far as his party was concerned, if I would remain for 6 months after the arrival of the Unit, I should remain in exactly the same position, as at present held. The same precedence, and the same emoluments.
I fancy that at the Elections next year, the Labour Party intend making their Defence policy, one of the principal planks in their programme, and if they can get me to act as C-in-C it will give them great prestige.
11 April - Thursday
Sir John and Lady Fuller and Mrs Kirkpatrick, etc. to lunch. He drinks too much and I fancy she smokes a great many cigarettes and this must upset her nerves. We visited the Drake.
12 April - Friday
Attended Garden Party at Government House, 1600 processed. I escorted Lady Chelmsford and Olga was looked after by Lord Massereene. A most beautiful day and the Garden Party a great success. 1600 present.
13 April - Saturday
Went with Olga and children to Tiny Town, a collection of midgets varying from 30" to 36". About a dozen, varying in age from 21 to 30. One a policeman over 50. After inspecting the various stalls, Madge had a ride all by herself in a carriage and pair of small ponies. Then there was a very varied performance of ponies, tight rope walking and dances. The Hungarian and the Tyrolean dances were very pretty, especially the latter.
We were very soon picked out and noticed, and I complimented the Australian policeman, who danced the hornpipe dressed as a blue jacket and did it very well.
The others are nearly all Hungarians, a few Germans and Italians.
14 April - Sunday
Madame Melba and Lord Richard and others came to tea. Miss Madge McIntosh, the actress, a very great friend of Ella’s also, and we had a long talk together about Ella and Baldie, whom she had stayed with. She is pretty and very engaging. Both Melba and Miss McIntosh asked to have Ella’s song Forbearance.
15 April - Monday
A large and rather dull luncheon party. Mrs Donkin gave a very interesting account of the Durbar and how well the King and Queen looked and acted their part throughout.
Olga with some of our party went on board the London to a dance. I stayed half an hour and departed amid a salute of 15 guns.
Not feeling very well, rather out of sorts, lack of exercise.
Manisty had a talk with me re RAN.
17 April - Wednesday
130 Blind Deaf and Dumb children with their teachers spent the afternoon at Admiralty House, first visiting the Drake. They played a lot of games and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Band played for the blind. All enjoyed a good tea.
18 April - Thursday
Dr and Mrs Ward of the (DT), Mr and Mrs Bruce Smith (Senator) lunched. Had an interesting talk regarding Northern Territory.
Drove out with Olga and saw Capt. Bruen, who was operated on for rupture and appendicitis last Monday. Very weak, but progressing. Visited Eng. Cdr Kimber and Eng. Lt Ascott at the same Hospital, Prince Alfred, then visited Eng. Lt McEwen at the St Vincent and drove Olga to Mrs Busby’s At Home.
The more the news about the wreck of the Titanic comes in, the more appalling and more terrific catastrophe it turns out to be.
19 April - Friday
Bishop Druett called on me this morning and had a long talk about dividing his Diocese of North N.S.W. into two. Stayed an hour. I spoke very frankly regarding the length and repetition of the services in the Anglican Church. He agreed with me. I promised to write a letter for him. In the evening the Chelmsfords and Miss McPhillamy, who has come on a visit to us, and Lady Barttelot. Dined and went on to the Drake’s dance, which was a most successful one. Very well done.
Mrs Drummond who is with us, had a very swollen foot and had to be carried up from the Boat to the House by bluejackets.
Missed Captain Bruen very much, who was operated on last Monday for Hernia and Appendicitis. Olga and I saw him last Thursday; weak but progressing.
20 April - Saturday
Miss Bosanquet arrived from Adelaide. Mrs Le Patourel to lunch. Mrs Drummond arrived.
21 April - Sunday
Went on board to Church. A sermon of 5 min and platitudes. No spirituality.
Some Officers to tea.
Went with Mlle to Presbyterian Church and heard a good sermon and liked the service. Wiburer to supper.
22 April - Monday
Mr Watson visited me, his brother was a Clerk with my father in the Exmouth and then in the Calcutta and died at Hong Kong at the age of 19. Heard from Bertie that Mids are to be only 2 yrs 4 months, instead of 3 yrs and are to be rated Act. Sub Lt. This will make Stevie one, DV this time next year.
24 April - Wednesday
A most successful dance came off here last night, about 70 people, gardens very prettily illuminated by coloured lights, a large awning spread, making a fine tent, with rugs on the grass. Everything was well arranged and all thoroughly enjoyed themselves. At 12.15 God Save the King was played.
25 April - Thursday
Another even more successful dance came off last night, about 70 present including Lady Denman, who came ‘incog.’ and not treated as Her Ex. Every one thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Left off at 12.15.
Miss Madge McIntosh of the Blue Bird left the stage on both nights at 10.25, and the taxi and Barge being ready, was dancing in Ad. House half an hour afterwards. Lady D. and Lady Barttelot and Miss Quick from Govt. Ho. and Lord Richard Nevill.
A small dinner party.
26 April - Friday
Olga had some 35 to 40 ladies to tea. Band played and everything went off very well.
Miss Baynton came out of quarantine on Wednesday, so we have had three girls in the house. Miss McPhillamy left today, a very nice girl indeed and well brought up.
27 April - Saturday
Left in Challenger for Botany Bay and landed after lunch and meeting Governor and Lady Chelmsford and party marched up from the spot where Cook landed, to the Flagstaff and there we all made appropriate speeches, had tea, broke the flag and re-embarked. I got back to Sydney at 6.30 pm.
Found urgent letter from N.S.W. Gov. about a dredger being long overdue and also heard of a man of Fantôme being killed by falling down the dry dock this afternoon when playing football.
28 April - Sunday
Sent Challenger out to search for Dredger and wired to Encounter and Pioneer to leave Auckland and search also.
A very good sermon from Newby-Fraser. Many up to tea, including the Blue Bird young lady.
29 April - Monday
Manisty over from Melbourne. Arranged terms by which I take command of their ships until 1st April 1913, when they are in presence of my Flag.
Navy Board and the Ministers are most anxious that I should take command of the Unit, if even for 6 months, on my own terms.
30 April - Tuesday
Took Miss Bosanquet to Recital by Miss Elise Hall on piano.
1 May - Wednesday
Paid Capt. Bruen a visit at the Prince Alfred Hospital. He has shaved and looks better.
Yesterday afternoon a very successful Drawing Room Meeting was held in aid of the YWCA, about 110 to 120 present, out of 180 accepted. Rain kept many away.
2 May - Thursday
Lord Chelmsford and Aides came to lunch, and then played tennis. I went to Rose Bay and had an hour’s golf.
Disagreeable surprise to find my monthly bills £130, including nearly £13 for eggs.
3 May - Friday
Miss Bosanquet left for Govt Ho. Played for two and a half hours on Golf Links.
4 May - Saturday
Miss Lydiard whose great grandfather was lost in HMS Anson nearly a hundred years ago off the Start and her niece Miss Margot MacKinnon, with her companion Miss Goodall, d. of Canon G. of York, lunched with us.
At 3.00 pm Lady Chelmsford came over and opened the Fair in our grounds in aid of St John’s Church. The Stalls were rigged up along our verandahs and the lower tennis ground used as a tea garden. It went on until 10 pm and there being a full moon and ground lit up by electricity. It looked a very pretty scene. Lou and Madge assisted to sell and about 600 people present realised £116 at Stalls, without the tickets another £20 to 30.
Captain Bruen came to stay from Hospital.
6 May - Monday
Not at all satisfactory news from Bertie. Makes me feel very anxious at times.
Dr McCormick, the leading Surgeon here, dined quietly with us.
Practised on golf links.
8 May - Wednesday
Went with Olga and Lou to see the Blue Bird at the Criterion Theatre. Maeterlinck play. Wonderfully well staged and the two children who take the principal parts, acted wonderfully well. Miss Madge McIntosh as Night did well. On stage for ½ an hour.
It is really a fantasy. My general impressions were that it was a very pretty scene, but that its motif is quite wrong, and the scenes depicting the departed, shocked and jarred on me very much, being so unlike, and infinitely opposed to, the unseen as revealed to us by God’s Word. Maeterlinck, I believe, who is no longer taken seriously as a Philosopher, does not believe in the future, but that the dead live in the Memory only.
10 May - Friday
Lieut Evans (Antarctic), Mrs Evans, a pretty young woman, and Lady Barttelot lunched.
Encounter and Pioneer returned to Auckland, no signs of Dredger, which I feel certain has foundered.
Played a good two hours at golf.
12 May - Sunday
Presbyterian Church in the morning. Very difficult to understand preacher, on account of accent and dropping his voice.
13 May - Monday
Visited Mitchell Library with Olga. Very interesting documents and books. Met Comte de Fleurieur there, his great Uncle sent out La Pérouse and Entrecasteaux.
In the evening took Olga and the Drummonds to hear Professor David lecture on Antarctica, etc., at the Lyceum Theatre. Heard from Melba who likes Ella’s song Forbearance very much.
14 May - Tuesday
Two of the Blue Bird Company, Miss McIntosh and Mrs xxx came to lunch and then went out with some of the other of the Caste in my Barge for a run up the harbour.
Olga visited Maternity Home and also C of E Home.
The other day visited another Rescue Home, and found another case of a child, 2½ years old, born of a mother under 15 who did not know she had had a child. The grandmother paid for its keep.
15 May - Wednesday
Played golf. The Bayntons and Sir Elliott and Lady Lewis to lunch.
16 May - Thursday
Olga and I to lunch at the Town Hall, the Jubilee of the Sydney Town Mission, at which representatives of other Town Missions are attending. Several hundred present, including the Lord Mayor, etc. I spoke, and also several others.
We then visited the Navy House. Mr Shearston tells me that he notices a great change in the men, since Drake’s arrival. They have been influenced by Yexley and seem, he says, to be much [more] amenable to reason than they were.
We then visited the Rawson Institute and had a talk with ... and Mrs Goodchild, whose husband a Missionary from China, is in temporary charge.
Admiralty seem inclined to agree with Com’th. proposals re. Encounter and Challenger.
Capt. Bruen leaves for a visit up country. Mrs Young down for dine and sleep from Katoomba.
17 May - Friday
Mr and Mrs Heney of the Sydney M. Herald to lunch. Very pleasant people.
Olga and Lou and I to Miss Madge McIntosh’s flat where we had tea and some music. Mr McEwing sang Ella’s song very well and a very good baritone voice. Then Mrs Winter Hall, who is playing the Ben Hur with her husband, played very well and also played some of Ella’s light music to Miss McI.’s recital. I was quite astonished and pleased beyond measure at listening to such pretty music, quite unknown to me.
In the evening, I dined at the Colonial Institute, Lord Chelmsford in the Chair, about 80 present at the Hotel Australia. I read my speech, a manifesto on what I considered Australia should do regarding Naval Matters, her duties and responsibilities. Congratulated by many on the speech.
18 May - Saturday
My speech given in extenso and by itself in one paper. Mrs Drummond commenced my portrait.
Left at 1.30 pm for Richmond where is the Hawkesbury Agricultural College, about 200 Students from all parts of the Empire. Received by Principal Potts, a member of an old Northumbrian family of farmers that have held the same farm for nearly 200 years under the D. of Northum.d.
Witnessed Football Match.
Last year a Boer won the Gold Medal of the College and took it back to the Cape.
19 May - Sunday
Took the Student’s Xtian Union Service from 9 to 10, about 80 present. Spoke from Philippians III. Very attentive.
Walked over the place, some 5000 acres and saw everything that is going on. Quite a revelation to me. The Students do everything, under the supervision of experts. Turn out at 4.30 am to milk 100 cows. All including the Principal breakfast at 6.30 am. They make all the saddlery, blacksmith’s work, butter, cheese. Kill, shear and attend on horses, poultry, ostriches, pigs, Bulls, Cows, Orchards. Make jams, look after every imaginable grass and cereals, flowers and grounds and repairs of all kinds.
Ruled by influence, principally through the Committee of the Student’s Xtian Union. Enter at 16 and some up to 25 and a few older, some with money, others with none. Fees £60 for a three year course. Each has a room to himself. No one works more than 8 hours.
After lunch, drove in the family buggy, packed tight with elders and children to Mayor Charley’s fine place, some 4 miles off. He made a couple of million out of Broken Hill Mine. Had tea there. Nice people. Beautiful view. House stands just over the Hawkesbury River.
Returned by evening train to Sydney.
20 May - Monday
Sir Joseph, Lady and Miss Ward lunched with us. Had a very interesting talk with Sir Joseph.
Went to the Pioneer Club and had tea there by invitation.
21 May - Thursday
A large party of 24, including Sir R. Baden-Powell. Sir A. and Lady Gould, Bayntons, and Officers, etc. A most successful evening every one enjoyed themselves. At 9.30 the Girl Guides came up in costume and were inspected by B. P. and then a Section marched up and one kneeling on one knee, presented a flag for B.P’s sister to accept. (He laughed a good deal afterwards and said it being leap year, he did not know what was going to happen).
The girls about 80 and the Committee about 10 had tea in the Billiards Room. The grounds were very prettily illuminated by electric lights. Band played in the Drawing Room after dinner.
Goulds nice people. Lord Richard Nevill, one of the guests, told me Melba liked Ella’s song, so much, that she was going to sing it as an encore at three Concerts she was giving at Melbourne.
22 May - Wednesday
Comte de Fleurieur to lunch. Olga and I for a walk in the Botanical Gardens and visited the Picture Gallery.
At noon to day, the Psyche hoisted my flag at the Main and the Drake saluted it. Guards and Band up on the last gun of the return salute from Psyche, the flag was transferred to the Main of Drake. Olga, the children and Mlle and I witnessed it from the lawn by the sun dial.
How wonderful, here am I a Full Admiral and C-in-C drawing £9.10 a day. After 47 years and a month actually at sea, reached the top of the ladder.
I thank God and pray earnestly the position may be used to His Glory.
23 May - Thursday
Went to the University to attend the giving of degrees, the G.G. one side of the Chancellor and I the other. Very rainy and blowing. Garden Party spoilt. A dull affair.
Olga opened a sale of work for the Burwood Orphanage at St James’ Hall attended by the Flag Lt and I hear spoke most admirably, clearly and in very well chosen words.
Attended the dance on Garden Island, given by Capt. Rolleston and Officers of Penguin, in the sail loft. Mrs R. a capital hostess and the whole place prettily decorated. Raining and blowing since yesterday morning.
24 May - Friday
Miss Baynton dined and slept here last night, a dear little thing.
Mrs B. and Miss B. both said Olga looked too charming yesterday afternoon when she was speaking and did it so well.
This morning Olga, Lou and I went to the Royal Exchange, which was crowded with the merchants of Sydney, and were escorted to the platform amid much cheering. Sir Joseph and Lady Ward there and Rollestons, Bayntons, Norton and many others. Cathedral Choir sang very well. I spoke, really reading from notes on the table, and it was received with great enthusiasm. Then Sir J. Ward spoke very well, but a little discursively. Also received a good reception. The Chairman thanked me for my excellent speech and I received numerous congratulations. I spoke very clearly, deliberately and logically, (thanks in the latter case to Olga who re-arranged my speech).
Olga and Bayntons and everyone very much struck with my speech, and many of the leading people told me there how pleased they were at my being made an Admiral. I have received many telegrams from Government and leading people in Australia, offering me Hearty Congratulations on my step in rank.
I thank God indeed, He has sustained me.
This evening, Olga and Lou went to the Willoughby Town Hall and Olga presented flag to the School that won the prize for the best Empire Pageant. Bruce Smith talked Blue Books for 20 mins and soon after one little girl fainted. These politicians are dreadful, once they get on their legs.
I took the Chair for Rev Watts-Ditchfield at the C.E.M.S. Very wet night, about 80 men there.
He reminded me that we had met at Lady Wimborne’s, Canford Manor, some years back.
25 May - Saturday
Olga had a meeting of the members of the Australian Handicrafts, about 25 present. Mrs Baynton addressed them, then tea. Lou and Madge went off in a magnificent motor to Katoomba. Mr and Mrs Young taking them away for a few days visit.
I was photographed this morning at two Studios, in over 20 poses at each. At Falk’s, the man who photo’d King and Queen when out here, said on their looking at the proofs, Queen (then Duchess of York) said “Which do you like best George?” He replied “I like them all.” “But George, which do prefer?” “I prefer them all.” She then stamped her foot and said “Can’t you make up your mind, George?” He then hurriedly pointed to one.
He said an ADC came and said the Duke and Duchess would like 30 each free and then any others at the usual prices. Considering that a room had to be especially fitted up at Govt. House, as Falk said, “It was a cool request.”
26 May - Sunday
Olga, Mlle and I to the Presbyterian Church to hear Mr Ferguson a fine spiritual teacher, and service very simple. “Christ in you.” We much enjoyed it. I was much touched at hearing Our Admiral prayed for after the G.G. In the evening, Donking motored me out to hear Langley, C of E. Very earnest a young man, will improve as he gets older. A very full Church.
Very late getting back. Motor did not come back for us, slow trams and missed ferry. Got home after 9.30. Won’t go out of an evening.
27 May - Monday
Glad to hear my house is let for four months to Sir John Nixon (Lieut Gen.) from the 1 May for four guineas a week. Less than it has been let for before.
28 May - Tuesday
Dr and Mrs Ward to lunch, of The DT. Miss Drummond came for a visit. This evening Bruen, Miss Clarke, Miss Mann and Dr Carlisle dined. Miss Mann sang very well. We are all very anxious that Bruen and Miss Drummond should marry.
29 May - Wednesday
Mr Young lunched with us. Posed for two hours for my portrait to two photographers. Captain Bruen and Miss Connie Drummond evidently drifting towards each other.
30 May - Thursday
Took the Chair at the Town Hall for the Annual Meeting of the Y.M.C.A. About ¾ full. The Archbishop gave an excellent address, also the Secretary, Mr Gillandey.
31 May - Friday
Interviewed Editor (Mr Heney) of S.M.H, also Mr Taylor of the Sun on the Navy League movement, which they will support. Am arranging with Col Campbell of the Nat. Def. League to publish 5000 pamphlets of Introductory Remarks of Adm. Henderson’s.
1 June - Saturday
Attended Review with Staff. Olga received by Present and Band playing. Then came the G.G. It was a very fine show and our Battalion did very well. Dasent and Beasley mounted, and attended by Mids, went past magnificently saluting as one and evoked much admiration.
The Bayntons been over here a good deal during the week, and many guests to lunch and dinner.
Miss Drummond left us and we arranged something every day to throw her and Captain Bruen together.
Lady Poore again writing to the Sydney Bulletin about Olga. Fancy a C-in-C’s wife doing such a thing, about another C-in-C’s wife.
2 June - Sunday
Went to St John’s. More and more I get dissatisfied with the C of E Service. Read a very good sermon of Campbell Morgan’s on The wreck of the Titanic.
3 June - Monday
A Leveé at the G.G. in which I with my Staff formed part of the procession, about 5 Naval Officers passed round and bowed fairly well. I had issued a confidential Circular saying how slovenly some had done it last year.
In the evening a large dinner party of 70 at the Governors. I had on my right Lord C. and on my left the Archbishop of Sydney. I had a talk afterwards to some of the Ministers and told them that their Parliaments should be 5 years, not three. For the last 6 months they are electioneering in the Constituency and neglecting their office work.
The children came back from Katoomba in the wildest spirits and well. Lou been riding every day and going about by herself. Both the girls looking very well.
VISIT TO BAROONA
4 June - Tuesday
Left Sydney with Olga, maid and Savage, in a reserved comp’t for Whittingham, both Mellings and Savage had 1st Class tickets!! given to them. At Newcastle we stopped 20 min and there Olga introduced me to Mrs Forsyth, a noted horsewoman who came out in the P & O with her, rather a shady past.
Mrs Dick Dangar came with our Carriage later on. She lives close to Baroona, at Neatsby, the old Dangar Homestead.
Arrived at Whittingham at 2.15 pm having left Sydney at 9.10 am. Met by Mr A.H. Dangar in a motor, and drove to the house Baroona, a mile off, which stands on an eminence with a very fine view of the country and the Hunter Valley hills in the distance, some few miles off, ranging all round. The valley in view looks like a great Amphitheatre, and the plain covered with cattle and horses. Olga says it looks like the plains of Lombardy. The plain covered with grass, but very dry.
Baroona, similar to a fine English Country house, great wide verandahs 12 feet and more and very lofty. Large stables and out buildings, all kept in beautiful order and the general order and appointments of the house most comfortable and almost luxurious.
House Party, Mr and Mrs Dangar, Miss Grace a young lady of 25 and lots of character I should think. The eldest son Rodney, (Secretary) Sinclair and Bell (Manager). Miss Jane Knox d. of Edward Knox.
5 June - Wednesday
Mr Dangar drove me all over the Estate and we looked at the Cattle and all the horses he is breeding (Suffolk punches). He has a very large income. He told me that last year he paid £10,000 in Income Tax. He gets a lot of money from the Broken Hill Mine.
The Dangars are an old Cornish family, originally Huguenots (D’Anger). The father originally started, I believe, the stations and his four sons carried it on. This one, the youngest, being the working Bee, and built up the family fortunes in a very marked manner.
He has turned over large stations to his sons again (four). One is 150,000 acres on the Liverpool Plains and the father has just built him a fine house, also costing £25,000.
A dinner party, the nephew Dick Dangar and his wife and sister came over from Neatsby.
6 June - Thursday
Motored over and had tea with the Dangars. I walked back 2¼ miles.
Rev Kirkland of Singleton, wife and d. came to dinner. An interesting man.
7 June - Friday
This afternoon, motored into Singleton, about 4 miles off, a pleasant township of about 4,000 people. Went over the Dangar Cottage Hospital and the Church, that Mr Dangar is practically building and then had tea at the Rectory. The Jones, who have a large house close by, came over to dinner. He is brother of Mrs Massie.
8 June - Saturday
Left Baroona at 1 pm after an exceedingly pleasant stay, the Dangars most excellent Host and Hostess. Miss Grace a nice sensible girl.
Arrived home at 7 pm, delighted to see our girls again, both looking well and in good spirits.
9 June - Sunday
Olga, Mlle and self to hear Mrs Ferguson at St Stephen’s Church (Presb) a most helpful Service and Sermon lasting just over the hour. Sermon on “Much people” and the central theme Jesus, the thought came home to me with much power and my eyes were moist all the time. Olga much enjoyed the service.
RETURN TO SYDNEY
10 June - Monday
Very busy in the Office to day arranging about Officers and men for Encounter, as a nucleus crew ship. Sir Henry, Lady May and daughters came on shore to see us, en route to Hong Kong, where he will be Governor.
Mrs and Miss Baynton arrived on a visit. Drake sailed for Jervis Bay.
12 June - Wednesday
Mrs Bassett and others to lunch.
Motored out with Olga and Mrs Baynton to Mrs Dickson, had tea there and walked round the grounds. They have a most wonderful collection of China, all picked up in Australia - worth, some say, half a million. She has been offered £50,000 for a small figure of Marie Antoinette. A box used on the dressing table of this Queen was taken to Switzerland by one of the maids of honour, and turned into a musical box, playing the tunes the Queen sang to her children. The maid of honour having sung them to the man who made the drum of tunes. I heard one of the tunes, very plaintive.
Some of her China is perfectly lovely, Sèvres and every kind, going back to 960 AD for some of the Chinese.
Dickson gave £10,000 to the Dreadnought Fund a few years back (Tobacco).
13 June - Thursday
Very busy in the Office arranging transfers about Encounter being turned into nucleus crew training ship for Commonwealth and Challenger going home.
Went round the links with Seton and Penelope B.
15 June - Saturday
Barbara Baynton and Penelope left by the Morea, the former came down to the family prayers, and told Olga she was much influenced by the word read. I am sure God led me to read just the portion she needed.
We saw them off by the Morea, Penelope expressing a great desire to Olga to give me a kiss. Did so. B.B. is a curious character and genius in many ways, clever powerful writer, but very erratic and lets her tongue run riot.
Devoted to us both, as is also Penelope, who is a dear little girl.
I told them both I would be always ready to help them both in any way I could.
Drake returned from Jervis Bay. Children out all day with Youngs.
16 June - Sunday
Mlle, Lou, Madge and I to hear Mr Ferguson at St Stephen’s Church. Presbyterian. A delightful helpful service and sermon.
Flag Capt. and Rev Morgan of Challenger supped. The latter a capital man. I only wish he was Flagship’s Chaplain. Full of energy, and spirituality. Told me of a Salvationist on board who kneels down every day at his Mess Table before turning in.
17 June - Monday
Heard from my dear sister Ella of her having married Herbert Westbrook, much younger than herself. They have been devoted for 10 years and were married in Paris from Rob and Lizzie’s house, at the Embassy Church. He is a rising journalist and makes about £900 a year, whilst Ella has her £100. One way and another they will live in a small flat near the Temple. Well I am glad my dear sister is happily married. God bless them both.
18 June - Tuesday
.Played golf. Olga to a meeting at the Town Hall. On the platform with Lady C. The latter means very well in her dull heavy manner, but has no charm of manner.
Our dinner party of 24 went off very well. I made a short farewell speech and proposed health of Captains Hickley and Gilpin-Brown.
20 June - Thursday
Fleet Sports went off very well. Very cold wind.
Wedding day of my loved parents, who were married at Halifax NS in 1848 and no man had more loving unselfish parents than I had and who set a finer example of living. I shall soon meet them again, in the glory beyond this present ephemeral life. I pray I may live for Christ, and living for Him, live for my wife, children and all around.
21 June - Friday
Presbyterian Clergyman and wife lunched with us. Mr and Mrs Ferguson. He is a fine preacher and has a great sense of humour.
In the evening attended the Annual Meeting of the Mission to Seamen. Lord C. in the Chair. I seconded the Resolution and felt I had not done it well and came home discouraged as I had asked God to give me wisdom for testimony.
22 June - Saturday
Miss Thornett (Dr Marion ) staying with us.
Took Lou to the Chelmsford dance. Olga not very well and Madge with a cold and temperature. About 140 children present. The Chelmsfords indefatigable in their attention to the little guests, ranging in age from 4 to 16. Lasted from 4 to 8 pm. Games and dances, Cotillions. Lou thoroughly enjoyed herself and looked very pretty. Made more friends with Joan and Anne Thesiger.
I went to Golf Club for tea, and was very thankful to hear Mr Wesche say to me “I hear you made a splendid speech at the M to S.” He said Mrs Wesche said this and also one of the Chelmsfords. I took heart and out in the open, lifted up my eyes and thanked God.
23 June - Sunday
Lou, Mlle and I to St Stephen’s. Mr Ferguson gave us a very fine address, much enjoyed the service.
Regret that our visitor, once a medical missionary in India, has quite lost her faith.
24 June - Monday
Mail. Lel seems very happy. This evening just before dinner, Lou brought in Public Opinion of the 24 May and shewed me a letter Australia’s Navy signed by an Australian. I began reading it and thought it very good. After a time I said, I believe that the beggar has cribbed some of my ideas upon which Lou, to Olga and my complete surprise, burst out laughing and said she had written it, when at Hobart without any one knowing and sent it to Public Opinion on plain note paper and giving no name.
We were astonished and congratulated her and laughed very much at her impudence, a girl of 15 writing as if she was an Australian man of about 40.
It is very well written indeed and must have been considered so otherwise it would not have been taken by the Editor.
Went with Olga, Lou and Miss Thornett to Chamber Concert at St James’ Hall. Chairs (easy) dotted about the place, very comfortable and good music.
Lord C. there sitting with us, unable to come cruise with me.
25 June - Tuesday
Have had 100 copies of Lou’s letter (unbeknown to her) printed in Office.
26 June - Wednesday
A small dinner party of eight. Bruen and Miss Drummond of the number, Mrs Dangar.
Challenger sailed for England amid cheers. Captain, Officers and men made a very nice signal to me and thanked me for all I had been to them.
27 June - Thursday
A Drawing Room Meeting for the Harbour Light Guild. Very well attended.
I paid a visit to a six masted Barquentine, 18 hands from B.C, owned by the Captain who was ashore. His eldest son is first mate and a very nice young fellow. He told me a lot about the ship. She has 3,000,000 feet of Oregon pine on board. He and his father are T. Abst. and do not allow any swearing on board. He said that if you looked after your men, they treated you well and did their work. Drink the cause of trouble.
A second mate on one of the voyages a fine seaman in every way, except the drink, on coming into port with $200 would land and next morning be begging the loan of ½ a $ for a drink and eventually came to grief. Crew of all nationalities. Norwegians are generally the most sober, until they have been mixing with other men. Fore, Main, Mizzen, Spanker, xx and Driver masts.
Mr Watson, who at one time was Premier in the Labour Party Govt, a few years back lunched with us and we had a most interesting conversation on politics, Trade Unionism etc., etc. A very able man and is getting the funds together for starting a Labour newspaper. Some £100,000 required, about two thirds collected. He represents the moderate section of the LP and I think pulls the wires of the caucus.
28 June - Friday
This afternoon, Olga, Lou, Miss T. and self went to the Town Hall, and heard a concert. Countess Cisneros, she sang very well as did Mr Paul [Dufault], a very nice tenor voice.
The place was about ¾ full.
In the evening, we all went to a reunion at the Alliance Française. Committee received us and presented Olga with a large bouquet.
29 June - Saturday
This day, 37 years ago my sainted and beloved mother went home 48 years old. Never a son had such a mother. We shall meet her soon.
This afternoon Olga and I with Flag Lieut went to see the final at the Polo. Lord Denman’s team won, 5 to 4 goals. Several accidents, but none very bad. Then to the Cadet sports, where Lady Denman gave away the prizes. I was received by a guard of honour and saluted. I inspected the G. of H. and after the prizes were given away I made a little speech to the Cadets.
This morning the wife of a stoker in the Psyche came to see me about her husband buying his discharge which I had refused. She then wrote to my wife. She brought a baby in arms and a boy of 3 who promptly crawled about on all fours in my office. She made an appeal to me and burst into tears. She gets £4 a week from her husband, but has to pay 12/6 a week for a single room. (Mrs Irvine, No 1 MacDougal St, NS, her landlady). I gave in to her and allowed the discharge.
30 June - Sunday
Yesterday afternoon, we called on Mrs Drummond, or rather Olga went in and Mrs D. implored Olga to say something to Capt. B. about Miss C. D, as the latter is very fond of Capt. B, but is so very reserved and shy, and unable to let him know. Olga almost promised to do so, but this morning after tremendous searching of heart, put the burden on me.
I was very unwilling to do so, but decided to do so as C .D. had at 9.30 or 10.00 taken Olga by the hand and unburdened her soul to her, weeping. I made a signal asking Capt. B. to come and see me, and on his arrival, had a talk with him as he is equally fond of her as she is of him. Everything was made clear and in ¼ of an hour, they were engaged to be married.
The Count and Countess de Cisneros lunched with us. She is an American, fine figure and pleasant. He is a Cuban of the old Spanish family of same name and was in Spanish Navy for 3 years, but resigned and took part in the war against the Spaniards in 1895 to 1898. He received a bullet (explosive) in his forehead, which has left a nasty scar.
Capt. B. came to supper with Miss C.D., radiantly happy, arranged that he should be married after the Battle Practice in September and use our house, etc.
1 July - Monday
Barttelots came to lunch.
Dined at Town Hall. First large dinner given by new Lord Mayor, G.G. and G. present. Sat down at 8 pm, got up at 10.45. Speech by Denman and Chelmsford very good. The former spoke very strongly on Govt House being taken away.
Had a talk with Holman, Attorney General, and Mr Flowers, State Ministers. Asked Denman about Lloyd George. He agreed with me, as to his being in earnest and not a self seeker.
2 July - Tuesday
Abby Dangar and Mrs Bryan, widow of Comd. Bryan who was washed overboard from the xxx about a year ago, lunched with us.
Cambrian arrived from China.
3 July - Wednesday
Dined at Federal Govt House. A large party for Mr Bryce (Ambassador to US). Lord D. took in Olga and I, Lady D. Mrs Bryce sitting on my left, a very agreeable and pleasant woman. After dinner, I had a talk with Mr Bryce, Mr José (The Times Correspon’t). Arch. Wright, Arch. Kelly (R.C.) Monsignor O’Brien, Dr Ward (of D.T.) and many others.
A reception was held after dinner.
Lady D. told me she always felt nervous in the presence of Lady C. and said in her family she went by the name of the ‘Governess’. Lady D. said, “I always think she is disapproving of me.” I told Lady D, it was only her manner, she was really shy and not very clever. A good woman and does her duty most religiously. Has very little conversation.
DEPART SYDNEY
4 July - Thursday
Left in the Drake for Noumea, New Caledonia. Capt. Dumaresq, Private Sec to Lord C. comes as my guest.
6 July - Saturday
Fine weather hitherto.
7 July - Sunday
My dear brother Russell died at Melbourne in 1883, leaving an illegitimate daughter, who is now living with an Aunt at Fremantle.
The trade wind blowing, not very strong.
ARRIVE NOUMEA, NEW CALEDONIA
8 July - Monday
Arrived this morning at Noumea about 9.30 am having entered the reef about 8 am. Many calls. On M. Burnet the Governor (Act) a tall good looking fellow of about 32. The Consul, Mr Holmes, who has been here two years, seems to know nothing, and no one. He was 10 years at Ajaccio. Mrs Holmes very nice and children very bright and attractive.
Government House, situated about ¾ km from Quai, bungalow size and good garden.
I and my Staff dined with Governor, party of 32. He made a very graceful speech, proposing the King’s health, coupled with mine and the British Navy. I replied, bringing in a phrase or two of French viz. J’adore Paris, etc., and proposed the President of the French Republic. Bruen and others told Flag Lt they were mightily pleased with my speech.
At 9.00 troops of ladies came in and their menkind, and were presented to me, some pretty girls amongst them. A lot of our Officers came up also. Then the ladies sat down all round the two reception rooms, and men most of them on the verandah.
A number of ladies and gentlemen then played a programme of music and did it very well indeed. I complimented them individually which pleased them much and introduced Dumaresq and others to a bevy of girls under the wing of Mrs King, one the daughters of the M. Maritimes who has come out for a year’s visit to her father from Marseilles. A pretty, bright attractive little girl, soon made a conquest of Dumaresq and others.
Dancing followed. I danced one set of Lancers, having a Mid as my vis à vis, which I believed astonished some people. It was arranged that English Customs should be followed and partners should sit out with the young ladies, which was done between the dances. I left at twelve o’c with my Staff. The dance was kept up until 2 o’c.
During the afternoon Dumaresq and I were motored out to the sea bungalow and gardens of the Governor some 4 km away, L’Anse Vala.
9 July - Tuesday
Landing at 9 am, with Bruen and Seton - the Governor met us and bringing two motor cars - a party of 6 besides Chauffeur in each car, off we started for a 65 km journey into the country - fine day - good roads.
We went along at a great speed, through pretty country, and over three passes about 1000 ft high, thro’ ranges of mountains - crossed a river in a large punt and ultimately reached Tumo (Tomo), a small 3rd rate restaurant, decorated with flags, French, British; and at 11.20 sat down to déjeuner, a party of 12 in a small Kiosk, with the Governor’s Chinese servants to wait on us.
To describe the déjeuner, my pen fails to do. It lasted three solid hours, interminable dishes, poorly cooked - tough. Every plate brought from the building 20 feet away, and only one Chinese man to do it - it was awful. He did everything, as if in a swell London house, and so deliberate and methodical.
Two ladies present sitting on opposite sides of the table, everything had to perambulate the table first for them. I had on my left a lady who only talked French, and on my right, a youth put there to talk English, of which I could not understand a word as it is quite unintelligible. For three hours, he pressed his conversation on me, poor fellow meaning for the best, his admiring father on the opposite side, watching with a smiling face, the efforts of his youthful offspring. I felt inclined to give a him a dig in the ribs at times, and never in my life before have I had my patience tried so much.
It came to an end and we got back at 5 pm. The views of the mountains were fine and Valleys semi tropical. High hedges most of the way. The Governor most gay and hospitable.
At 7.30 pm my dinner party came off, of 16, and went off very well and proposed health of President of French Republic and alluded to the Entente being sealed by les jeunes filles, the daughters of France, and the officers of HMS Drake - then the Gov. made a speech, very well turned, polished saying most complimentary things. He said tell Lady King-Hall, that les jeunes filles, sont très contentes with the midshipmen and officers, because they admire the Admiral so much, and they see that the officers are like him.
At 8.30 the ship was crowded with French ladies and officers and dancing commenced with great spirit. I said the ship being part of England, the officers would follow English customs to which they all agreed and soon laughter was resounding everywhere. The Lancers, a mixture of English and French, causing much amusement and les jeunes filles, instead of being brought back to sit in a row, after one or two promenades, went off and sat out with their partners.
At 11.30 pm, Band played The King, and every one left, cheering and having thoroughly enjoyed themselves, in a way they thoroughly appreciated. Great merriment, arose from the Officers learning French from the girls, the latter English from the officers, though, most of them can talk English fairly well.
I had the French Pasteur, and also Mr and Mrs Milne, missionaries on their own account to the natives of New Hebrides, who work here. He had been a Queensland miner and went to the Hebrides. They were a little cast down, so I brought them down to my cabin, they sat there during the evening. I gave them a word of cheer and sat with them from time to time.
10 July - Wednesday
Myself and party of officers went over to the Island of Nu, to visit the Convict Settlement, the Director conducting us.
We went over all the Buildings. There are some 900 there, of whom 170 were in Hospital, many old men. I formed a poor opinion of the place. The long rooms in which most of the men were confined, being badly ventilated and smelling. Rows of dirty sack hammocks, being slung about 3 feet above the floor, each side, stone floor and dirty looking brown rugs. The door opening on to the yard being barred, prisoners put their articles through, that they had worked. Some beautiful things, asking us to buy and unfortunately none of us had any money, and also the price asked was very large, poor fellows.
We then visited the cells where some are locked in for two years, many were opened for me, and several had sentences remitted in my honour. One case, a man for 30 days in a dark cell, got off the remainder of his sentence.
The cells were clean, but I think everything had been polished up for me, as my visit was expected. We visited the Hospital, good building, but one could see the sick were very neglected, old ragged bandages, and very few attendants upon them. The sisters were forbidden to enter some 6 years ago, and so it can easily be imagined what the result is when left to natives and a few French men.
To describe the appearance of the men in prison, especially in cells, is to give a very pitiable and sad account of their looks. Hollow eyed, sunken cheeks, dead despairing look in the eyes, all hope gone. There appeared a lack of life, all had some hard, stony, dead look. I tried by slightly nodding my head and speaking through my eyes to show them my sympathy - some responded after a time, others remained staring.
Well, I cannot believe that this is the right way to punish men. Reformation is lost sight of in Revenge. There is one consolation that the treatment, I should say, is kindness itself at Isle of Nu, as compared to what went on 30 - 60 years ago in Tasmania and Norfolk Island, and Macguire Harbour.
At Guiana (French), there are 5,000 convicts, and 1000 die every year, the climate is so bad. Here, the climate is very good. I heard of some interesting cases, from the French Pasteur, and his Welsh wife. One man has been a convict since 1866, the year he shot at the Emperor Napoleon and the Czar - another man who is being released on 14 July next has been a convict for 31 years, and during the last 10 has not left Island of Nu. He has been working in the Hospital, and some 10 years ago, through reading Protestant Books and the Bible, became a very earnest Xtian man. He has earned the respect of every one, and the Doctors of Noumea have obtained for him a situation at Hospital in town.
He told me of another case of a Dr and a rich woman, it being a case of substituting a child, she having none. The woman told a lady friend, who promptly told the husband and the sequel was, they both got penal servitude for 30 years. He is now a libéré and works in the bush as a Doctor.
We were shown the guillotine and its working. It has cut heads off some 70 - 80 people.
After lunching on board, we all went out to a picnic got up by Governor, at a country bungalow by sea shore - a great number of people there and some tennis was under way, rounders, 2 & 3’s and other games, and great merriment going on. The piano was brought out, Caledonians and other dances were carried out, our fellows and the French girls getting on splendidly. The latter still continuing their instruction - they then showed how the pas des patineurs was danced and the officers soon joined in and learnt. Tea and Wines followed, and then a stroll through the gardens and along the walks finished the day. The Governor most gay.
I took a lot of photographs.
On my return to the town (4 km) I was accompanied by Mr Hagan and an official M. Marti and shown the Temperance Restaurant started by the Governor, a Committee of Merchants, including French Pasteur, who also met us there. One room is for natives the other for the libérés, as the latter are not wanted except at the lowest drink shops.
I then went up to the vicarage and made Madame Beringmas’ acquaintance. She is Welsh and very charming. We had a long talk, and visited the Temple next door, built by convicts, and the carving of the wood is beautifully done. Services are held on Sunday in six languages. French, Bèche De Mer (Bastard English) and native tongues.
Then I went and saw Mr and Mrs Milne, and told them I thought it would be a good thing if they joined some Society for the sake of Conference and they seemed to think so too, as I can see they feel lonely and get depressed at times. They depend on voluntary gifts being sent to them and sometimes are in a very precarious state. We had a talk together and I then came on board at 7 pm and sent a letter to my beloved Olga. Wrote to her, Lou and Madge my dear little girls.
DEPART NOUMEA
11 July - Thursday
Left Noumea at 9 am for Vila (New Hebrides).
ARRIVE VILA
12 July - Friday
Arrived at Vila at 4 pm and received the call of Acting Commissioner Mr Mahaffy, and Count Buena Esperanza, President of Mixed Commission; French Commander and other officials, Count Andino; Judge Alexander.
Had a dinner party of English - Mahaffy, Harrowell of Police (a TA) - Jacomb, Judge Alexander. I thought they would never go away, smoking cigar after cigar, and drinking whisky. I am sure that it is not a good thing, a man like Mahaffy drinking quite enough in a hot climate.
13 July - Saturday
Returned calls on officials and had Spaniards, and French off to lunch, and Band played. Sent ashore Mr Evans, Mid, for French ladies who came off. They took an hour to make their toilettes. Left at 4 pm.
The state of affairs in New Hebrides as bad as ever. The French, breaking every article of the Convention and their officials, by sheer inertia, refusing to take any action. It is perfectly disgraceful and intolerable. I spoke to French Commissioner Repiquet, regarding the case I am interested in, the woman abducted by M. Naturel.
I called on the missionaries on Friday, and Saturday, and had them all off to the ship to tea, and to hear the Band. Dr Mackenzie is shortly leaving for Sydney, after 41 years’ service in the Islands - Dr Robertson of Erromanga in Hospital with broken thigh - 42 years’ service in the field. Two other missionaries staying with Dr Crombie. We had a very pleasant talk with one another - and one prayer - which much affected Dr Robertson.
They have done a wonderful work in the New Hebrides, and been a true friend to the natives. Islands where cannibalism and murder were rife, now orderly and law abiding. Mr Mahaffy, the Commissioner, has a great admiration for their work - as has every one who knows anything about it.
Left for Suva. Fiji.
VISIT SUVA, FIJI
15 July - Monday
At Suva. Arrived here this afternoon, Sir Charles Major, Acting Gov. up country. Sent his secretary to ask me to stay with him. Deputy Governor, the Colonial Secretary, called Hutson.
16 July - Tuesday
About 11 or 12 called on me and filled my cabin, representing officialdom. Mayor Beddoes, etc.
Landed with Bruen, and walked out to the cricket match, our fellows got beaten. Then had tea with Mrs Hutson, and then called on the Monktons. He is one of the Monktons, relations of Lady Armstrong, I fancy. He saw Charlotte last December, and left her very well. They arrived here last April. Had not been a week here, before their boy of 4 got dysentery, and in a few days was dead - terrible blow. Their other boy is at Cheam.
In the evening attended the dance given by citizens of Suva.
Rather warm for dancing - I must say. I consider that English dancing has deteriorated very much from what it was, such a lack of dignity and I was much struck with the graceful way that the French danced such dances as the Lancers.
17 July - Wednesday
Left the ship with Bruen, Flag Lt Lee, Major Kitcat and Capt. Dumaresq and Mids Bethell and Evans, in Barge for Rewa River, taking two pilots with us.
We got up to the Sugar Factory at 11 am and Mr Fenner, the Manager, showed us over the whole place, and we saw the process of the sugar cane being crushed 6 times. The liquid (water and juice of the cane), then running into clearing vats and on and on through different processes of purification, until it went through three or four large vacuum pans, the last boiling at 130 degrees, vacuum 25 ins, then on to centrifugal pans, and sugar was formed, the liquid running through the copper sieve. On the sugar went by ingenious arrangements, until it found itself in bags; of which a small one was presented to me.
We had lunch with Mrs Fenner, and afterwards, when we happened to be alone she told me of her four sons, all doing well, of the loss of the eldest at 16 years, of a little girl of 18 months. This led to a very interesting and spiritual conversation, I hope by God’s blessing, a help to her. I gathered Mr Fenner is not a believer - from what she said - and she told me that the Anglican minister at Suva, was no help to her.
The Presbyterian Methodist Minister came on board on arrival and got permission from Captain Bruen for the Concert Party to give a Concert on shore. The next morning, Mr Matthews, the C of E clergyman came off, and I suppose finding out what had been done, asked for the same, and took care to at once take the Town Hall for the only evening available. Rather a mean thing to do.
I perspired so much to day, I had to borrow a singlet from Mr Fenner.
18 July - Thursday
To describe today’s proceeding needs a far better and more descriptive pen than mine, but I must make an effort to depict the events that took place. At 7.30 am Mr Sutherland, the Native Commissioner (who came out 32 years ago with the late Lord Stanmore) and Ratu Pupe (grandson of old Thackambow, who is in the Government Service, and receiving £180 a year) came off in Motor Boat.
The Flag Captain and the Flag Lieut, with myself embarked and off we went for the Rewa River. We passed through a narrow cutting in the thick Mangroves about half a mile long, and entered the River, avoiding the Bar, upon which rollers were breaking, and also saving several miles. We went up the river several miles, passing a huge R.C. Church erected by the French and eventually landed at a native village several miles short of the C.S.R. Factory and mills (where I was yesterday) and went to Ratu Pupe’s brother’s house, who has just been deprived of the rank of Roko, i.e. Governor of Province.
He was away, the house is a very fine specimen of a native house, beautifully and strongly made, and decorated outside with great taste, matting of different patterns forming the side of the room, there being only one room, some 50 feet long, one end being the best part. A large mat bedstead in each corner of this end of the room, the floor of which was covered with matting, soft to the tread.
Here we had a native breakfast, very good soup, fowl very tough and various vegetables of which more anon.
At 11 am we started again in the motor boat, and turned into a narrow branch of the river Rewa, that led eventually to the sea. For some miles, the river was about 80 feet wide, and we passed native villages, many of the villagers were washing in the river, and looked most picturesque in their coloured petticoats. Miles and miles of sugar cane were passed. The Malabar or red cane and the more valuable black Meu kind, discovered in Borneo some 6 or 7 years ago.
Gradually the river widened and in about 1½ hours, we reached the sea, the reef being outside us. After some difficulty in avoiding the shoals, we arrived at 1 pm at the town of Bau, on an Island (at high water). The old capital of the islands in Thackambow’s time and from whence he ruled the whole group with great cruelty.
I remember when I was a Mid out here, that I used to hear of how he launched his war canoe over the bodies of his captives and Mr Sutherland told of a very rare book by Mrs Willis called xxx. She was the wife of a trading Captain and a religious woman, and often lived for months on the Island a mile off Bau, with the missionaries, who were not allowed on Bau. She relates that in the early fifties, in one year about 2400 dead bodies were brought into Bau, for feasting on, and sending to warriors on the main land. I quite believe this, knowing what went on when I was a young boy.
Well, to resume. On my landings at Bau all the elders of the place were squatting on their hams, about 150, and welcomed me in the usual native way, bringing their hands together in unison, half grunting and the children all neatly dressed were drawn up, and sang God save the King, in English and Fijian. I thanked them through the Lady Missionary.
We then walked through the place, and saw the raised site, where the old heathen temple stood, and then entered the compound of several acres, which King Thackambow lived in, now occupied by his eldest grandson.
We entered his reception house, all matted (he was not here, and has lately been disrated from being Roko of the Province). His half brother Ratu Pupe, who was of our party, did the honours.
I should mention, that on my arrival, I was taken to a large arbour, on the level about 70 feet square, erected in my honour, and where the elders and others came and squatted on mats facing myself and staff, on chairs.
They gave me another welcome, and then the Yongana ceremony took place Kava being prepared, in the usual manner, and first presented to me. I drank it, and spun the cocoa nut bowl, and then the rest of the Kava was drunk by those present. A speech was made by one of the elders men there, and they called me the Governor of the Sea. It was translated to me by Mr Sutherland and I made a suitable reply, saying, that as I was Governor of the Sea, I would take care no one should harm them and so on. The usual whale’s tooth was presented to me, I touched it, and Flag Lt took it for me. It was after this, that we went to the Ratu’s house (Ratu is the distinctive title for those who are of noble birth and there are about 20 families in the group entitled to it).
Very soon, we saw a procession in single file, of about 16 women and several men. The former all carrying on native mat trays, covered with banana leaves, food of every description. We then moved by a covered way, into the dining house, and squatted, cross legged on the matting, I in the seat of honour, and in came the women and deposited about 30 dishes, i.e. the trays about 3 feet long, on the matting. Fish boiled in banana leaves, fried and every kind of root, and fruit and also fish soup.
The women squatted on the mats, all dressed in their best and handed us food from time to time. After ¾ of an hour we got up and then the rest of the company set to. There was enough food for 100 people or more. I then went into the church, a large building, all matted and by the aid of the missionary spoke a few words to the children, who sang for me We shall stand before the King.
We then made a start for the mainland. The tide being out, I and Mr Sutherland were carried in chairs and the others rode across the mud about ¾ mile to the mainland - for which I gave the bearers 12/-.
We found a carriage and three horses waiting for us, and drove for 8 miles, along a grass road embankment to xxx, by the Sugar Mills and crossing by the ferry over the Rewa, had tea in the Hotel, a large bungalow building, frequented by visitors from Australia.
We then drove the 12 miles into Suva. For half a mile each side of the road are Indian settlers, who till about 3 to 5 acres, which they lease from the Govt at 7/6d an acre.
This policy of the Govt has had a very good effect. There are about 84,000 Fijians in the many Islands of the group, and about 50,000 Indians, under indenture of 3 to 5 years servitude, under very strict Govt supervision. About 1/5th remain as settlers, so it is only a question of time, when the bulk of the population will be Indian.
The two races do not intermarry, but are friendly with one another. The Fijian is the landed aristocracy, he is not very energetiC-in-Consequence.
Ratu Pupe dined with me, evening clothes, with the Sulu (waist cloth) - bare legs.
I had a talk with him, on the advantages of being a TA and he told me he intended being one.
I shall be glad to get out of the Tropics, as immediately I move, I am wet through at once. Our men gave a very good evening performance at the Town Hall, which was crowded.
I dined with Deputy Governor, Mr Hutson, on Wednesday evening, meeting the leading men of Suva, including the Bishop of Polynesia. Dr Twitchell for 10 years in Poplar, London. Very energetic but disappointed at the way he mumbled the grace.
19 July - Friday
A large luncheon party on board today, Mr and Mrs Hutson, Mrs Mahaffy, Mr and Mrs Erhardt, Mr and Mrs Sutherland, Bishop of Polynesia. After luncheon went on deck and listened to the Band, and some more people came off, whom I had asked.
Rev Matthews, Anglican, and wife and daughter, and Rev Mr Small, wife and daughter, the Wesleyan minister who brought off Ratu Pupe’s wife. She presented me, so nicely, with some fans and baskets of fine straw.
I left at 4 pm for Auckland
DEPART SUVA
21 July - Sunday
Raining all day, wind anywhere. Very stuffy at Church service.
22 July - Monday
My dear little Madge eight years old today, born at 11.45 pm at 11 Chelsea Court SW. My beloved wife had gone through months of most trying time. Many nights unable to sleep, occupying herself by dressing dolls for Lou, and things for the coming child. God bless them both.
Off Auckland - fine clear weather SE winds.
VISIT AUCKLAND
24 July - Wednesday
Arrived at Auckland this morning, very cold and dull. Received two bags of Mails. Inspected Calliope Dock and Admiralty Reserve.
Received calls from Harbour Branch, Deputy Mayor. Telegram from Government, they cannot give me the £50,000 I asked for.
Telegrams from Governor and Ministers welcoming me to N.Z.
Sent a W/T to Olga.
Heard Youngs had knocked a man down, case to be heard on the 8th August. Damages £500 - may delay their departure from Sydney.
25 July - Thursday
Raining all night and morning. Inspected with Colonel Login, the Building proposed to transfer to us.
Pioneer arrived.
26 July - Friday
Miserable wet day and cold.
Court martial in my Fore cabin on two Bandsmen for theft - 6 months detention.
Heard from Olga to my delight.
When the Bishop of Polynesia lunched with me at Suva (Dr Twitchell) a fine muscular man, of splendid physique: I saw he was only drinking water, and asked him to take some claret, as he is not a TA and refused a second time and then said the reason I am only drinking water is that I am playing in a tennis match this afternoon. I laughed and said, “I shall quote this on a Temperance platform.” He laughed also and said, “Well, it is a fact and you can quote me and my name also.” I said “Oh! I won’t do this”- He laughed again and said “I mean it - You must quote me and my name”, so I said I would.
27 July - Saturday
Cold and rainy. Landed with Dumaresq, who is my guest, and went to the Sailors’ Home and over it and then to the Art Gallery, some of the Old Masters here, and some fine china from the collection of Sir George Grey.
Had a letter from Olga last night, and send her one every evening.
28 July - Sunday
Landed this afternoon, and strolled to the Y.M.C.A. Found the Secretary Mr McFarland engaged with a Bible Class. When he came out spoke on the Y.M.C.A. doing something for the men of the ships, who will be stationed in N.Z. He had already been thinking of this - we had a long talk together on plans. At 4 pm a meeting took place, with Mr Murray a Presbyterian Minister to give the address and I was asked to go in and speak, which I did, offering up a prayer, that I might only do so, in the power of Holy Spirit, and testify for my King, the Lord Jesus Christ. My prayer was answered.
Read this evening, a most helpful, edifying sermon by my friend Dr Campbell Morgan Men looking for their Lord.
29 July - Monday
This day at about 11 pm, 26 years ago, my dear old father left us, died at the Rawlings Hotel, Jermyn Street. A life, lived in unselfish devotion to the family and in bold witness and faithful testimony for God and our Saviour.
Landed, as we are coaling. Went to the Art Gallery and had a talk with Mr Shillington the Librarian. He was at the taking of Canton in 1857 in the RE, my father being there also, as Flag Capt. of the Calcutta.
I saw the original MS of What is the German’s fatherland? written by Arndt in 1813, and given to Sir George Grey. He died in 1860, aged 91 and wrote this in his 90th year. It was and is the great German Patriotic song.
The Watch on the Rhine was written by Carl Wilhelm who died in 1873.
Sent Bethell, Mid., to Pioneer.
31 July - Wednesday
Last Monday, when we had finished coaling we left Auckland about 3 pm and commenced our full speed trial, and ran it for 24 hours; most uncomfortable in my cabin. We did not get more than 21 knots, on account of dirty bottom, young Stokers, and Westport coal. A fine passage hitherto.
Heard from Olga, Stevie, just before leaving and the latter.
ARRIVE SYDNEY
2 August - Friday
Arrived this morning, at 9 am, having experienced a very fine passage throughout. Captain Dumaresq looking very well, thanked me very much for having had him as my guest.
I landed and received a very warm welcome from my beloved Olga and the two dear children, all looking very well. Olga had much to tell me and has made great friends with the members of the Alexander - Chapman mission.
3 August - Saturday
Mr and Mrs Alexander (née Cadbury) and Mr and Mrs McLaughlin of Belfast to lunch, very bright and most cheery Christians. Delighted to meet such people. The Town Hall is packed - noon, the afternoon and the evening and great blessing the result.
Rather a staggerer. Household and Ship Bills for the month, £131 odd. Too much.
Whilst away on my cruise, Olga in company with Miss Thornett, who stayed at Admiralty House, visited Prisons of Women at Long Bay, and also the State Institute Home, where she had a talk with Mrs Murray (at one time the celebrated Lady Mordaunt). She is an habitual drunkard and has been so for many years, constantly going into prison - at those times received covered with vermin. When sober Olga says you perceive the manner of a refined lady in conversation. She was much affected by Olga’s sympathetic manner and taking her hand, wept, saying she rarely had any one so full of sympathy to talk to her.
I remember the case well in 1869, and how the late King, then P. of W., had to go into court and deny that he had anything to do with her.
4 August - Sunday
A most excellent sermon from Mr Ferguson. Lou and Mlle went with me, and in the evening accompanied by Mr Seton went to the Town Hall, and much enjoyed the meeting there.
5 August - Monday
Capt. Bruen came to settle day of wedding - the 14 Sept - if the Battle Practice is over in time.
6 August - Tuesday
This morning, at Breakfast Seton quietly said that he was converted (he had been taken by Mrs McLaughlin to the Chapman - Alexander Mission last night). I did not think much of it but thought he was half joking - as he, in the past, looked very averse to anything of this kind, being a regular churchgoer & Communicant of the conventional type.
But he meant it, as I found out this afternoon, when he and chaplain of the Drake accompanied me to the afternoon meeting at the Town Hall. For after it was over, on Olga calling for me, Mrs McLaughlin told us that he had gone down into the basement to the after meeting, last night, and there made an open confession. Thank God, and I pray He will graciously keep him in his future walk.
It was wonderful how Alexander conducted the singing. It was very impressive and helpful.
7 August - Wednesday
This evening Olga, self and Flag Lieut went to the evening meeting of the Chapman - Alexander Mission at the Town Hall. The crowd was waiting at the door at 4.30 for the meeting at 7.30. Seats had been reserved for us on the platform, we arrived at 7, the singing had begun. The Hall was literally packed, a choir of 4 to 5 on the platform. Alexander managed the singing in a most remarkable manner and taught new Tunes and Hymns in a very short time. Mr Natzer singing the solo of the 1st and 2nd verses. Dr Chapman gave a very powerful address on the three Crosses.
We left at 9 o’clock, the missioners saying good-bye to us.
8 August - Thursday
We left this morning in the Drake. The House Party - Olga, two children, self, Mademoiselle and Mellings. Fine weather.