5203-G-HMS RESISTANCE - Pt 3

MAY - SEPT 1874

AFTER VISIT TO LONDON

3 May – Sunday

Another long break in my journal occurring through my having made a second trip up to town.

Leaving Home Friday – April 24th to see about Russ – I found him seedy from biliousness, and that Meta applying strong blisters behind his ears, had made them very sore.

So, the next day (Saturday April 25th) I went into the city and had a long talk with Mr Davidson, Manager of Oriental Bank, who told me Russell would not apply himself to his work and that he very nearly had given him warning, but Mr D. said he had noticed a slight improvement during the last week.

That afternoon Russ and I hunted about for boarding houses, but found them all too expensive. I paid Davey the Chemist a visit. He holds Russell’s two checks for £65 – and it is very fortunate I did, for he intended presenting them May 1st and I suppose Russ would have got the sack. We both spent our evening with our G.Parents.

The following day, Meta, Mrs Stepney, Edward, Russ and I went to hear Mr Fleming. Russ and I went out to Kilburn and saw our two cousins, Ida and Florence Forman, both very pretty girls – and then coming back to our G.Parents had tea there, meeting Edward and Meta. G.Father gave me a splendid pair of binoculars.

Next day (Monday) R. went to the Bank and I went into the Park for stroll and met Ld. Wm Phipps, lunching with him at N & M Club; also, met Bouverie Clark. Then hunted about for lodging and got some very good ones just behind Warwick Square, – and in the afternoon Russ engaged them from May 5th.

Dined at the Cavendish. Went out to Notting Hill and having given a Bill to Davey, I got the two checks – and so, I’m now bound by a Promissory note for £70 due 25th October.

However on going down Tuesday, I found my Parents much easier with regard to Russ, as he wrote and told them all his debts, except of course mine. I received a letter from Forbes, which I did not deign to look at, but destroyed unopened considering whom it came from. I feel anxious for Russ, for he will still persist in mixing himself up with all sorts of people – being made a handle of for their purposes; in fiddling about with exchanges of mines and companies etc, and I feel certain that he will go and make a mess of it, unless he sticks to his Bank work.

Wednesday, 29th April. Our little party came off with great success, about 250 people came, or rather over that number and we had a most lovely day – so everything was in our favour, and it ought to have gone off well. Everyone was pleased – the ship looked very pretty, partly owing to Comdr’s. exertions and to flowers provided by Lady Hall – who also came, together with my dear Father. Francie and Miss Fox – the Kirks they all thoroughly enjoyed themselves very much. Spent my last day at Home.

Friday, the day before yesterday – Old Sir H Keppel came in to 5 o’c tea and spun some of his yarns of his younger days etc. The Kirks came in and spent the evening – and at 10 pm bade my beloved Mother good-bye – and went out to ship in steam pinnace accompanied by my Father, also bringing some Mids. out.

We left yesterday morning at 5 am. and when outside made sail, and I had the pleasure yesterday of putting the old craft about, twice. She went round like a top, sails very fairly. I suppose owing to a clean bottom she went round in 3 min 45 sec with Hands. This afternoon, just after setting Port Stud. a shift of wind took me flat aback, so, I had to brace a-box, and in Stud. so, now we are still some 30 miles off Portland, with a head wind.

DEPART PLYMOUTH

ARRIVE PORTLAND

5 May – Tuesday

Have just dined with Captain who gave a very nice little dinner. We came in yesterday and of course had to weigh again and get boats out although we sail tomorrow afternoon.

Heard from my Father who enclosed letter from Col. Barton, saying James owed £600 and telling about his madness. I sincerely hope the authorities will give Elsie something and keep poor James in detention.

Feel very disgusted with regard to my boys, for I cannot instruct them in the way I wish, owing to Commander. Had a talk to Captain about getting up Fifes and Drums and also some singing amongst the men.

DEPART PORTLAND

7 May – Thursday

The Downs. We left Portland yesterday evening and coming along 6 knots passed Brighton this morning, Beachy Head, and Dungeness, at which latter place it being low water we saw the masts of the Northfleet. We got off Dover at 6 pm and plainly saw the chalk cliff of Calais – and at 7 pm. we came to single anchor off Deal. It was a very pretty sight coming up Channel to see the beautiful clippers, some running and some beating, doing the latter so well, that our beating in men-of-war is like sailing sideways like a crab – comparatively speaking.

It struck me that in the event of war, an enterprising enemy would do an immense amount of damage to all our south Coast Towns. I should think the Devastation must have surprised some of our good folk on the sea, for she certainly does look a most extraordinary thing dashing thro’ the water.

Am busily engaged getting a Drum and Fife Band up under the Captain’s patronage.

ARRIVE PORT OF LONDON

8 May – Friday

Steamed up the Thames 8 knots and anchored off Thames Haven, a place some 7 miles below Gravesend – and where all cattle are landed, or, at least a great proportion, of what London requires. Special trains have been put on, running nearly every hour to Fenchurch Street.

Pilot we had on board gave me information about their numbers etc. There being 124 Pilots at Deal and Dover, 38 of them, always cruising off Dungeness in 3 cutters, which sail round and round, a regular roster being kept whilst the others are always ready. At times the whole 124 have been afloat. I asked him what he would probably get for taking this ship from Downs to Thames Haven. He said £10 or £15. Our pilot is the one that generally brings royal yacht over from Ostend and he then gets about £10 – £15.

We anchored about 5.0 and did not get down below until about 7.30; mooring and getting boat out etc.

11 May – Monday

The day before yesterday, I ran up to town, and went to Russell’s Bank, but found he had not shown up. Had a talk with Mr Davidson, who said he strongly advised Russ to leave Bank, for he did not think he was cut out for it.

Getting out to G.Mother’s, I found my Mother, Meta, Edward and Russ there and I soon learnt that Mrs Stepney had been the cause of a terrible row, at one time breaking the match off between Meta and Edward. She spoke to dear Meta, just on the point of going away, in a most insulting manner, quite losing her temper. Meta, I’m very thankful to say behaved most nobly in answering Mrs S. Father has now allowed Meta £100 a year, for two years and £50 afterwards until the first annuity falls in. It is very hard on my Father – and Meta and Edward feel it as much as anyone. Mrs S. evidently thinks Meta is not good enough match for Edward and only allowed the engagement to steady E. but, I know as to wealth – Meta might have made much better ones, and of course gentlemen, as much as Edward. I’m very glad indeed the thing is settled now. It has quite brought Mrs S. out in her true light.

Russell in hot water again with himself, so I hope it will do him good.

Sunday (yesterday) went to Fleming’s and in the evening after evening service, Meta, Edward and I went into the vestry and made the acquaintance of Mr Fleming and his curate Mr Mann, going afterwards to St James’ Square, and having tea there.

This morning I came down by 7.20 train.

12 May – Tuesday

The Bothamleys (6) Meta and Edward came down from town and had tea (The Codringtons telegraphing down to say they were unable to come). After tea we went all over the Devastation.

Started them off by the 6 o’c train – Henry B. staying to dinner.

13 May – Wednesday

The Czar has arrived, but not at Gravesend, to the astonishment of the Mayor and Corporation of Gravesend who had their address all ready, laid on return for His Majesty. The reason being that in going out of Flushing, the yacht got ashore and so the tide would not suit at Gravesend by the time he could have got over to the Thames, so he put into Dover, being some six hours behind time.

The good people who came down to Thames Haven, on the strength of the large placards, announcing the fact of the Fleet going to salute etc. etc. were also somewhat put out.

At 11 o’c we got the news about Czar going into Dover and had orders to get up steam full speed and unmoor with despatch. We all had our fires lit and Resistance, her mooring swivel in, when everything was negatived and left in status quo – for we should not have got away in time to get over the shoals at Mouth of Thames. I’m glad to say none of my friends came.

15 May – Friday

Ran up to town Wednesday night, and out to Notting Hill, found all out there and that Mrs S. had been to make up with my Lady Mother.

The next day I transacted a lot of business at the Co-Operative and at Music Publishers and paid the Royal Academy a visit and saw there the most charmingly lovely girl I’ve ever seen in my life – everyone turned to admire her – and I really after seeing her, had no more relish for the canvas pictures. She was not more than 15, but, so pretty and naive.

Took 5 o’c tea with the Bs. and stayed the evening with my G.Parents and Meta. Going away about 11 o’c bidding Mother good-bye, who goes down to Devonport tomorrow and to Meta who goes down to Lady Gilford today.

Slept at the Arundel last night, and got up at 6 o’c thinking it was 8 o’c – so, to amuse myself I strummed the Faust Waltz on a piano I found, rousing up an old fellow who poked his head into the room with a night cap on and told me sarcastically how pleasant it was to be woke up with music etc. Going on in the same strain – however, I would not see it in the way he wanted me to and began apologising for my poor playing etc. So, I don’t think I got the worst of it after all.

I came down by the 9.20 – first borrowing 10/– from Oxley to pay my way, having run so close.

21 May – Thursday

Sunday last after reading articles of War and Prayers, Carrow and I went up to town I went to Warwick Street, but found Russ was not there, so went on to my G.Parents and found he had just gone on to Mr Morrison – so, I followed up and arriving there, made the acquaintance of the Morrisons. Russ and I had tea there and afterwards went on to Fleming’s and heard Mr Mann preach. I was rather disappointed – we then returned and had supper – after which Russ and I returned Home.

Next morning, I breakfasted in Russ’s Rooms, rousing him up with much difficulty, in consequence of the medicine he is taking and also from his not getting any sleep during the night.

The forenoon, I engaged doing business, and seeing the Czar pass. Near Temple Bar entered into conversation with some roughs about the ‘Black Prince’, a superintendent of Police, whom they seem to admire very much, and whilst waiting, throwing pennies into the roads, to the delight of the boys and disgust of the ‘Bobbys’.

At 1 o’c His Majesty went by in state and I did not think his reception was over cordial.

Took Russ out to Notting Hill, and then dressing at my rooms went off to Covent Garden, and heard Don Giovanni, the cast being composed by Adelina Patti, Marimon, D’Angeri, Ms. Faure and Ciampi. Patti sang beautifully and looked bewitchingly. I was very pleased and gratified, but not comfortable, for the House was full from top to bottom and we were packed like herrings in the 10/6d. places.

Yesterday I rejoined the ship from leave, finding everything much as usual. This forenoon we unmoored and at 2 pm on seeing the Russian Yachts coming down we weighed, having orders to slip, if anything went wrong. We formed in two lines and the Derjava passed, hoisting the red Ensign and firing guns, after we had given a Royal Salute. The Emperor could not be seen very distinctly. They were all observing the men on the Sultan’s decks standing up and waving.

At 6 pm we parted from the Yacht, and anchored off the Alexandra Channel, there not being water enough to go through. We nearly rubbed sides against the Sultan, which ship shifted billet, as did the Agincourt.

DEPART PORT of LONDON

ARRIVE PORTLAND

25 May – Monday

Next morning at 3 am the fleet weighed and coasting down that day through the Downs, passing Brighton. The following morning anchored in Portland Roads. I went ashore yesterday to Portland bicycling to Weymouth and back.

27 May – Wednesday

Yesterday, landed with a party of 150 men and filled 146 tons of coal at the coaling jetty – working two jetties only in two spells. 50 men can work at one jetty and ought to put in 14 tons an hour into the lighter.

This forenoon, I started out to Dorchester on a bicycle and got there about 1 o’c, getting back to Weymouth about 4 o’c.

Received a very sad letter about Russ from my Mother. I can’t make out what he is up to, ordering gold watch and any amount of gear, all the time saying such fair things to his Parents’ faces. He is breaking their hearts, of that I’m quite sure. I think, I shall have to throw up my ship, it will be very hurtful to my interests and I hardly know how to live on my half pay in London, for I can’t and would not receive any help, after Russell’s drawing the way he is and has been doing. It is wonderful how one member of a family can make everyone else miserable and unhappy.

I trust Father will not give up thinking of getting the Channel Fleet. Wrote to Mother and Russell.

30 May – Saturday

Went out to Dorchester on bicycle and dined at Farmers Ordinary making a most substantial dinner for 2/6d. On returning aboard, relieved Lowe of the Guard and boarded a cutter yacht – Mr Milner-Gibson and his son being on board – smoked a cigarette and asked them to Church tomorrow.

Heard from Father, both yesterday and today and also from Mother, who sent me Russell’s letter. It makes me get quite savage, his continual demand on them for money. Yesterday we had Ram-Ho [?] – Northumberland took advantage of being Chief to make any amount of signals etc.

2 June – Tuesday

Yesterday our men landed in small arm companies, together with those of the Starboard Division and performed some evolutions marching past, etc. Admiral Hornby saying my company marched past second best out of eight. Last night we drank to the health of Lord Howe and his companions in arms, who 80 years ago, defeated a French fleet of 26 sail of the line, capturing seven.

This morning, I asked Commander about going back to my watch, telling him, I did not feel justified in going on under present arrangements, what with the difficulty of getting men and the drills etc. However, he would not hear of my giving it up and pitched into Wright for even being willing to take them on. I don’t feel satisfied, and but that I leave the ship very shortly, I should have a regular row.

6 June – Saturday

Had Ram-Ho yesterday and man and arm boats last Wednesday – some forty boats sailing down to Weymouth and firing blank cartridges. My boat was the first to get up masts and fire.

This afternoon, I went ashore and spoke to the Portland Steam Co. about running a boat to Plymouth and back, when the men get their 48 hrs. next Monday. I got them to do it, if they could get 200 at 6/– a head the double voyage.

Heard from Home several times this week, all bearing on Russell. They have just paid £25 to Frazer for him. Could get no explanations from Russ about the watch. Am very anxious to see my Parents, as I fear, all this worry and anxiety is telling on them.

11 June – Thursday

I was most successful in my endeavours in getting a boat to run to Plymouth, on Monday last. The old Commodore started at 5 pm with 160 of us and had a pleasant voyage round, getting there at 3 o’c. in the morning. The men’s wives having been waiting there, several hours raised a shout and on getting alongside the jetty such a rushing, embracing, kissing went on as defied description. I very nearly went into the Melée myself on the chance of picking up a stray kiss or so.

I had to walk from Millbay to home and turned in at 3.30 and out at 8.20. On going down to Breakfast found Edward there, he having come also the same night, but earlier. Had a long talk about Russ and found out by mere chance that he had been borrowing money from Edward. I had much difficulty in making Edward take it back. Mother giving me the money.

Went about the dockyard and off to the Gorgon with my Father. The latter ship’s superstructure was all split about, girders broken across by the force of explosion – the guns in the turret having been trained close to the superstructure, shot passing eight feet off the other turret. The ship was built by Palmer & Co. on the Jarrow and not over well put together, the thin plates of the superstructure, not meeting each other exactly and being filled up with pieces of iron, which were all started out by the explosion. The legs of the turret were also nearly all gone.

Next morning (yesterday) started from Home in the Commodore taking my Father’s barge sails with me (sliding gunter) to sail lifeboat cutter with. Got round about 6 pm just in time for dinner – wrote many letters – and received some. Two invitations to dinner, one from Oldfield, the other from Admiral Hornby.

The regatta is to come off the end of this month and then we go out for a cruise of two months, up the West Coast of England, Scotland and round by the Orkneys and East Coast to Spithead.

13 June – Saturday

Dined with Capt. Oldfield – Royal Alfred night before last. Such a slow dinner, I almost fell asleep at table.

Had a slight row about my Fife & Drum Band last night. In the evening they came marching round the upper deck, playing. The Commander got in a great rage and asked me if I thought it was Christmas Day – and that he would see me about it in the morning.

In the evening I suppose he had thought over it and found I had not committed such a crime – for as a sort of peace offering he asked me to come and sail the ladies into Weymouth, which I did, enjoying a very pleasant sail indeed.

Off to the ship at 11 o’c – got the Boats in this evening, ready for going out on Monday.

Admiral Campbell’s death is in the Papers, making Ommanney Willes an Admiral. I hear Admiral Randolph is to haul his flag down.

19 June – Friday

Have not gone out of the ship until this afternoon, with the exception of dining with Admiral Hornby, Wednesday last. A large party of eighteen, four ladies amongst them. I, having a pain in my lower regions, had not a very pleasant evening.

Am very busy getting my cutter rigged for the Race for Admiral’s Cup.

We went outside firing last Monday, taking Sowerbys out. They both asked me to pay them a visit at Luton, of course.

We made a mess of our mooring and had to shift billet taking up the good part of another day.

Had a good deal of boarding to do lately – the Brigs and numerous yachts, coming in. Made the acquaintance of His Grace, The Duke of Bedford, in one.

24 June – Wednesday

Weighed yesterday at 4 am and went out firing (prize) got it all over by noon and steamed in again. We had a slight contretemps letting the anchor, for in walking back, it took charge and the cat fall slashed along the deck and partly unwove – the anchor fetched the bottom.

On coming in again, I got a letter from Mother, enclosing a copy of one of Russell’s to Uncle James asking most pressingly for a loan of £130. Uncle J most rightly sent it down Home and thus my little loan to Russ. has come out. I heard from my Father this morning. Russell is going the right way to work to break his parents’ hearts. It is very hard on the rest of the family. I hardly know what to do. I certainly cannot afford to go on half-pay and go up to London with £70 Promissory Bill due in three months and my own debts and Meta’s Marriage. Wrote to Russell and Home.

28 June – Sunday

I’m glad to say Captain Fowler has taken the management of Russell’s affairs into his hand and I hope he will be able to do something – for now his former lodging keeper is not paid – and Russell has been staying away from his Bank for 10 days and more. Find my boat with the sliding gunter does not answer at all – so I’m afraid my chance of the Cup has flown.

Dined the night before last – farewell dinner to Mr and Mrs Sowerby – with Captain, small dinner of eight.

After the Ss. had gone, all the Monday yarns came out.

Our programme has come out and rattling good one too.

29 June – Monday

I had a long letter from my Father this afternoon and everything has come as I feared. Russell out of the Bank and his lodgings not known. Both my Parents gone up to town, half heart-broken. Capt. F. looking for Russell.

1 July – Wednesday

Our first day’s regatta over, sailing day, a splendid breeze. We took second places in four races.

Russell at home – his debts amount to something like £200, having borrowed from everyone and written to everyone for the loan of it. What he is going to do, I don’t know.

4 July – Saturday

Dined this evening with Luckraft on board Triumph and made the acquaintance of Fredericks the Mid. who won the cup – for we sailed for it yesterday. A splendid breeze, some 40 boats started and the crashing etc that went on at starting was something terrific – and not a little cursing went on – I got foul of two boats, knocked bumpkin out of one and slued another one second. It was a glorious breeze and we had to go round a course four times – making altogether about 16 miles. The Cutters in Service rig, all came to the fore, and steam pinnaces, barges etc. nowhere.

The Triumph’s cutter got round first followed by my boat second and I was pushing her close when my mizzen sheet and block went to ‘Jericho’ and made me third; and reeving a new rope for a single mizzen sheet, I could never set the sail properly afterwards and dropped to be fourth and was finishing the last round when I got aground and that put me fifth, coming in that number. Our Launch ought to have been higher up than sixth, for she sailed before the wind, two feet to a cutter’s one – by Comdr. Missed stays four or five times and lost his temper, etc.

If I had known I was going to sail boat in service rig, and had had something to run with, I should have been close to the cup; but not having had an opportunity of trying her and nothing for running I was all adrift.

Thursday, the pulling day, we had a large party on board to lunch and dancing this afternoon. Went ashore with Carrow and played croquet with the Miss Sparkes, very pretty girls.

5 July – Sunday

Walked out to Radipole with Mr Dermott, rather a pretty walk. McAlpine came on board and had a smoke with me and we had a talk over old times.

6 July – Monday

Spent today 11/– in telegrams. Received one this morning, asking me if I cared to go to Elk with Comdr Harris. I wired home and got advice not to, so, as Carrow was offered it, I refused. He has accepted and has written a letter to Tarleton.

Tuesday. The fleet tripped their Anchor and stood to the Southwards, getting clear of the breakwater by 4 am. and at 6 making sail.

The two flag ships steamed on ahead and put into Plymouth, Agincourt rejoining us off the Eddystone, having got her two life-boats (Cork), and Northumberland remaining in; Admiral Hancock being required for Court Martial on Admiral Randolph.

Wind falling light we furled sails and steamed along 5 knots, fine clear summer weather.

Next day, we passed a wreck, she was not worth look at, being completely gutted and broken up. Had some sail drill in which we distinguished ourselves by getting extra drill.

DEPART PORTLAND

ARRIVE MILFORD HAVEN

Thursday morning we arrived at Milford Haven and moored. Found a letter from home awaiting me. Very puzzled to know what to do with Russie, as even if he was able, he could not enter Irish constabulary until 21 years of age, he being only 20 at present.

Yesterday, (Friday) I landed and walked up to New Milford, crossed Ferry and from Pembroke Dock, walked out to Pembroke and back. Admired the Castle very much. The ruins are of large extent and look very pretty and moderately perfect. Maitland and I went over Fury and Shannon building here. Walked back to Old Milford with Ferris; Mathias and Maitland being too lazy.

This afternoon I expect Col and Mrs Ommanney and party on board to afternoon tea, old Malta acquaintances of mine, whom I met up at the Band.

13 July – Monday

Had a large tea party aboard Saturday last, including a lot of Carrow’s friends and yesterday afternoon I went out with Carrow to a Mr Robertson Hall and had dinner and spent a very pleasant evening. Drove us back, and we got on board 11 pm. Entrusted two bottles of rum to boatmen to take out to xxx. I wonder if they ever reached. Got underway this forenoon, fine weather.

DEPART MILFORD HAVEN

ARRIVE LIVERPOOL

14 July – Tuesday

This forenoon, we crossed the Bar of the Mersey and with a most lovely day, and a light fair breeze with all sail set, we steamed up the Mersey, full speed for us (9 knots) accompanied by about a dozen small steamers, crammed full of people, cheering and waving, bands playing. The sides of the river with thousands of spectators, from New Brighton up to Birkenhead one side, and from Bootle up to Liverpool on the other. I should think some 80,000 or 90,000 people at least had turned out to see the fleet go by.

I never before saw such a scene of life; the river full of small steamers and docks full of craft; men on top-glt. yards cheering, from the docks – and no doubt it must have been a pretty sight.

Just as we got near the anchorage, we furled sails, and the sails, being well dry and light breeze, men also working extremely smartly, disappeared; and it was as pretty a sight, as any landsmen would wish to see. Ships crowded with white canvasses, suddenly, and to them without warning, appearing without a stitch set.

We made a running moor, with a 5 knot tide against us, and consequently, Devastation had to shift berth. We made a very slack moor and Triumph lost an anchor and 14 shackles of cable.

Our Anchors had scarcely dropped when invitations came from Mayor and Messrs Lairds to Banquets and garden parties.

I went ashore and went out to Tom Hannay’s and found him at home. Just returned from North Berwick, whence he had taken Annie. As he was very tired and suffering from a bad eye, I stayed but a short time and promised to dine with him tomorrow evening and bring a couple of fellows out with me.

15 July – Wednesday

Took the Mids over the docks and went over a couple of the White Star Line.

One of their Captains or Agents, told me, as an instance of how fast they did work sometimes, that at 4 am one of their 450 feet fellows has come into the river and been taken into dock. Had 2,000 tons of cargo taken out and 2,000 put in, 1300 tons of coal shoved into her, and some 1200 emigrants and started off for America 36 hours after her having arrived in Mersey.

They are very well fitted up. We then went over a large grain store and saw how they stowed it and transhipped from ship to store and to different parts of store, by means of moving leather bands. Next we visited a Yankee ship, most beautifully clean, she had a very ingenious method of easing her cable out – skipper very civil. We then all went into the town and I stood ices, cake and beer all round to my pocket’s disgust.

At 6.30 pm having shifted at the Alexandria Hotel, I met Carrow and Maclean at Princes landing stage and we went out by train to Princes Park, and dined at Tom Hannay’s, meeting his brother Anthony and a young fellow called Irvine and another fellow called Ferguson. We had a most jolly bachelors’ dinner, everything as near perfection as it could be – cigars splendid, I can vouch for, and liquor superb as Carrow and Maclean can swear.

We came off by 12 o’c steamer, a steamer that the Dock Board have most kindly run all day, between the fleet and Princes Pier. Hear some 1800 people have visited us.

16 July – Thursday

About 3 pm the good people of Liverpool began to flock on board and soon our decks were crowded, cabins and W.R. filled. I lit mine up so that everything might be exposed to public view and got the Band up. Lord Wm Phipps came on board and brought Mrs Moon, daughter-in-law of the Chairman of L & NW Railway, a most charming person – took her into the skipper’s cabin and gave her tea – Skipper coming in.

We had some odd people down below, some regular swell ladies came and sang out their b –– brandy and Soda and made old M-- kiss them – and very pretty one of them was too. Some rather nice looking girls from Southport came down and had tea with us in W. Room.

About 6 pm Tom Hannay came with his brother and friends – showed them the ships. Tom Hannay and Irvine stayed to dinner. After dinner, we all adjourned to the Quarterdeck and smoked, listening to the band. Lost 4/– at whist.

17 July – Friday

Maclean, Carrow and myself went ashore and met Tom Hannay at his Office. He told us all about cotton broking and showed us the Cotton Exchange. While we were in there he sold 100 bales – each bale being represented by a small sample about a foot square. A bale of cotton is worth £15 so as he gets ½ per cent on all sold, he makes £7.10. on every 100 bales sold.

After lunching at the Palatine Club with Tom H. we went down to the Princes landing stage and got into a Coach and four-in-hand and on its being filled by fellows from the fleet, drove off for Gateshead, the residence of the Mayor (Mr Walker) about 6 miles outside the town.

As we got outside Liverpool the country became very pretty. We arrived at the Mayor’s at 4 pm and after alighting were ushered by a very swell person, one of the Corporation people, into the Mayor and Mayoress’s presence – the latter a very stout party enveloped in a very loud vulgar dress. After making our bow we filed into the gardens, which were very pretty and commanded a lovely view, Knowsley being about 3 miles off on the opposite side of valley.

In the gardens were all sorts of games going on – Badminton, croquet, etc – and a large Marquee rigged up and floor laid down for dancing, (waxed too much we found). Soon after arrival, everything commenced, something going on the whole time – Police Band playing the best, 30 strong. When it ceased playing volunteer Band went on then a string band and then singers, who turned up all over the grounds, when and where least expected.

I hear some 1800 ‘dead marines’ were found on the ground. We danced up to 11 o’clock most of the time with the same girl – and the Liverpool girls, dance the trois temps very nicely – most charmingly indeed.

We got back to ship about 1 o’c in morning, beguiling the way back by singing, I giving a few F’cle ditties.

18 July – Saturday

This afternoon we had 4,500 people on board – and entertained them with a hornpipe and Redwood performing on the slack iron and at last we set the people dancing all over the place, the band playing from 3 till 6 pm.

Had the Miss Irvines off to tea and Tom Hannay stayed to dinner with me and sleeps on board for the night.

We got a letter in deep mourning from Annie, Eugene, and Polly thanking the officers of Resistance for the kindness shewn to them. These were the three Southport girls that were on board Thursday last and were so gay, old Knight threwing them into Lord Ashley’s cot.

19 July – Sunday

After dinner, Tom H., Carrow and I went ashore and proceeded to Church, where a lot of difficult singing was going on and one could not join in. We then walked through Sefton and Princes Park to Mr Irvine’s (Sen.) house and had a good solid dinner there, Maclean joining us. After dinner we went out on the grass and laid down smoking and talking until 7 o’c, missing Kirk to my disappointment, for I was anxious to go.

After tea we bade good-bye to the Irvines, amidst much fun and with two introductions to Aberdeen in our pocket, and went and had a most recherché supper at Tom’s house. After which, Maclean and Carrow went off and I went to bed, after going over the House, which is nicely fitted up and belongs to him. Got a letter from Annie.

DEPART LIVERPOOL

20 July – Monday

Began unmooring at 10 am and did not finish until 4 pm, our cables being so dreadfully foul. The fleet left at 2 pm amidst a perfect ovation from people ashore. We slipped out at 4 and anchored just onside the bar – there not being enough water for us, except at high tide.

ARRIVE BELFAST

21 July – Tuesday

This morning at 2 am we weighed anchor and put her under steam, going about 10 knots, and arrived at Belfast 4 pm, a fine large Lough and town standing at the head of the Bay. Carrickfergus on Northern Bank and Bangor on the Southern. The country looks very green and fresh and uncommonly pretty withal.

Moored ship – this cruise is regularly a ‘Parson and Marine Officers’ Cruise – for we the executive officers get a goodly amount of mooring, unmooring, etc.

22 July – Wednesday

A fair amount of people visit Agincourt and Devastation but nothing like the number that visited us at Liverpool. During our stay there we got as many as 16,000.

23 July – Thursday

Went up to Belfast this afternoon, landing at Carrickfergus at one o’clock, Lowe going with me. We went about the town doing a little shopping and then tried to get a billiard table, but found them all occupied by the Squireens (a certain class of Irish gentlemen who live on a small allowance allowed by their Father, and their wits allowed by nature, spending most of their time profitably playing billiards).

After waiting a considerable time we managed to get a table and then old Lowe, mistaking a respectable looking squireen for the billiard marker, set me off in a most astonishing manner. The fellow’s air of surprise and disgust was too much for me – and I had the bad taste not to gain a command over myself for some time. At last we began playing, and Lowe licked my head off.

Another squireen afforded us some amusement being somewhat elevated (it being the right time for being so) began making some silly questions and because I did not join his fun – he accused me in a most melodramatic manner of trying to sit on him.

We then proceeded to the Botanic Gardens, some two miles out, very well kept and a large conservatory full of fine fuchsias and other most extraordinary looking plants with very hard Latin names. The 31st Band was playing and discoursing some sweet music.

We then trammed into the town and shaped a course for the Mechanics Institute, a large temperance meeting being held there. We found ourselves rather late but, on showing at the door were led on the stage, a very ‘ikey’ place – some 70 or 80 people and head swells sitting there. Speeches and songs were the order of the day and after one of the songs, I, to my surprise heard my name being mentioned – and as everyone seemed to be waiting – I hopped up and rushed to the table and spake a few words, being to the point and not much of it. My maiden speech was a success, as far as it was. We came back by the last train.

24 July – Friday

This afternoon we unmoored and got all ready for sea. The Mayor gave a Banquet. Lord Ashley made a most amusing speech plastering everyone down, Mayor included, in a most wonderful manner.

DEPART BELFAST

ARRIVE GLASGOW

25 July – Saturday

This morning at 2.30 am we turned hands up and at 3 am we were underweigh steaming 8 knots for Glasgow. At 9 am we were opposite Ailsa Craig, a large high rocky island, the sides being very steep and in pinnacles, was crowded with thousands of birds. I might almost say millions and be inside the mark – the side of the rock was quite white with birds and guano. A musket was fired from the Trinity yacht and clouds of birds flew about.

We steamed up the Clyde during the afternoon and it was a very pretty and lovely scene, the river being full of yachts of all sizes and pleasure boats and the scenery along both sides was only what the Clyde can give. I shall not attempt to describe it, for I should only make a mess of it and not do it justice. As usual we turned the hands up half-an-hour before time and at 4 pm we came to and moored off Greenock, Resistance being lowest down the river. After having put the swivel on – we got a signal made to us, to shift into bearing Monday morning – being 3 degrees at the most out.

26 July – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon and attended Kirk, and then out for a walk to Gourock and back to Club and off to ship to dinner. Just received invitation to go out to Iona tomorrow with Admiral, from Bruce, but have to decline it being my day on.

27 July – Monday

Received invitation from Mr Reid, Glen Huntly, to a Ball for this evening, but have had to refuse – getting all ready for coaling tomorrow.

28 July – Tuesday

Went up to Glasgow and trammed out to Belhaven Terrace, found no one at home, left a card for Charlie. Glasgow is much larger than I thought it was, having some fine streets. Buchanan Street to me, appearing its Regent Street. The city is full of tramways running all over the place.

Came down from Dunlop Street Station and on getting on board found a letter awaiting me telling me Admiral Hornby had nominated Lake and I to join shore committee, to represent the fleet, the people ashore having given £53 and two Cups to be pulled for on Saturday next.

At 9 pm a lot of us went to the Ball at the Town Hall, which has a fine floor for dancing and galleries running round it. We soon picked up partners, at least I did and we kept the dancing up to 3 & 4 am. I danced with the Grieves, old acquaintances of mine, and I sat in the gallery in the same place that I did six years ago with Annie by my side. Now she is married and mother of two children (or nearly so).

Asked any amount of people on board to visit the ship, one young girl in particular, with whom I struck up a very close friendship. There were any amount of girls and not many p.g.’s, which (as Lord Ashley said) considering they pay 1½ guineas to go and be cut out by the Naval men, is not to be surprised at.

Wrote and asked Charlie Forman to pay me a visit.

29 July – Wednesday

This afternoon some people payed us a visit, amongst them being the Harveys, whom Douglas Hannay had sent down in the Merle, his 10 tonner, which has won 12 out of 13 first prizes this year. The Neva yacht, 60 tonner, here too. Had her owner and his wife with other ladies come on board. We got the band up and had a little dancing and then about 4 pm Mr & Mrs Holms-Kerr would persist in taking four of us in their yacht and we started to beat down to Largs, 15 miles down the Clyde.

I, not having heard from Charlie, concluded my letter had gone astray, but, asked Maclean to look out for him, in case by any chance he came.

We had a most delicious sail down in the Neva, a beautiful breeze in the clipper yacht of the season, going along so well and so easily. It was most enjoyable.

We got down to Largs about 6 pm and dined on board at 6.30 then landed and Holms-Kerr drove us all out to Mr Fyfe of Fairlie, the great yacht builder. He built the Neva and charged £38 to £40 a ton. Holms-Kerr told me she cost him about £3000 – all found. We had tea at his house, a large newly built house. He had a fine collection of prizes on his sideboard. We all turned in about 10 pm the host being half seas over, which considering the numerous wee draps we kept taking all day and night, was not surprising.

30 July – Thursday

After a good bath and breakfast this morning we bade good-bye to our hosts and hostess and were driven into Greenock, some 14 miles of very pretty driving and got on board at 9.30 am.

I found my cousin had come down the previous evening, with his carpet bag and Thring took him down to my cabin instead of to the W.R. Charlie, poor fellow, finding no one to meet him went off again by next train. He had telegraphed to me, but, his telegram had been delayed at the Post Office and just missed me by a quarter of an hour. I was dreadfully disgusted of course and this forenoon bundled up to Glasgow to my Uncle’s Office 160 Hope Street and saw him. Found there was no chance of seeing Charlie, as he was down at Erskine, doing some civil engineering. Uncle James was very anxious for me to go over to North Berwick with him tomorrow, and would stand the expense – so, I said, I’d do my best.

Met Lowe at the Station and by dint of looking out for his watches etc., I got him to go to the Banquet to be given tomorrow at the Greenock Town Hall to 500 of our men. Find my name in company with many others, had gone into the Admiral’s, for putting name down for Lord Provost’s Banquet at Glasgow and not going. Arranged with Lake about regatta as the Admiral nominated Lake and I for committee.

31 July – Friday

Went up to Glasgow in the forenoon, and paid Douglas Hannay a visit at his Father’s Office. He introduced me to his parents. We cruised about together and met the Holms-Kerr family up in town.

At 2 pm Uncle James and I started for North Berwick and got to Edinburgh 3.30 pm, having passed through some very pretty country in the Lothian, very well cultivated indeed. Had a flying view of Linlithgow Palace and Holyrood Palace from the train, the former in ruins. Edinburgh, judging from half-an-hour’s acquaintance, seemed a very pretty town. The old town had very tall houses of 7 and 8 stories in it – and had altogether a very old fashioned look about it.

After lunch we started for North Berwick a watering place some way along the coast. We found Aunt Isabel, Annie and Florence there. Annie won a pair of gloves from Tom on my coming. On getting to their house we found the rest of the family collected and after mutual greeting etc. we had tea, a game of golf and turned in.

1 August – Saturday

A bathe in the sea, which was rather cold gave one a relish for a good breakfast. We smoked and played a game of golf. Ida and Robbie against Tom and me, the former being beaten most thoroughly. After lunch I had to say goodbye and go off by 2 o’c train to Greenock having enjoyed my short visit very much indeed. Came down in the train with Morton and got on board at 8 pm.

2 August – Sunday

Had some people off to church, Lord Selkirk and family. Came on to blow rather hard, so that the signal was made after boats were in, not to unmoor as was first intended.

DEPART GLASGOW

ARRIVE LOUGH FOYLE

3 August – Monday

At 3 am this morning we were all turned up to unmoor ship and at 6 am the first Division steamed out of Clyde – 2nd Division following later on, and going to Lough Swilly.

We began at 8 knots, under steam and sail, but off Ailsa Craig, we shortened sail and had to face a regular snorter, steaming full speed against it.

We got into Lough Foyle 7 pm and let go our B.B, but with way we had on and strong tide running in, we had soon veered our B.B. chain to a clinch, having previously let go S.B. at the 12th shackle. The starboard chain had just been brought to, and three links hove in, when Devastation tried to cross our bows and came athwart our chain, carrying it away at 15th shackle and sending our Capstan flying round, knocking the men all over.

We had only seven men hors de combat and most fortunate it was, only three links had been hove in, otherwise we should have had a large butcher’s bill after a lot of gear had been smashed. I think she came across our ram. Lowe who was forward said she did. At any rate one of her plates has bulged out at the top an inch and a half. Eventually after scraping along she got clear and left us the pleasant operation of picking up the B.B. and 15 shackles. We let go our sheet and moored with sheet and S.B.

In consequence of a signal, I went on board the flag-ship and explained everything to the Admiral.

4 August – Tuesday

Carrow, Donald, Denny, and two others we had left behind at Greenock made their excuses to Monsieur le Capitaine.

Divers been underrunning chain all day. Whiled away the afternoon in clearing Hawse of an elbow.

5 August – Wednesday

This morning having underrun the cable up to our bow, the diver passed a small rope under the bight of cable and then we hauled fish fall round by it, and then hauled 8½ inch hawser round by the fish fall and by bringing the hawser to the capstan hove the bight of cable right up to bow. Shackled stream on to bight and then hove it in.

This afternoon we hove in the rest of the chain and the eight shackles lying in the sand, actually held the ship against wind and tide and we had great difficulty hauling it through sand. After getting all the chain in, we cleared hawse, the SB and sheet having an elbow in them. Then weighed the sheet anchor, moored ship with two Bowers and put the swivel on.

After supper transporting the sheet anchor by the Fore and Main Yard, casing it from cathead by Hawser and placing it by Fore Stay and Burton from Fore topmast heads. The cable was unbent but, to my mind I thought it was bringing too much strain on the Yards and would rather (myself) use in addition a Fish Davit, taking the Fish to the balancing mark and assisting with the Yards.

Keeping Lowe’s first watch, he having gone to the Ball at Derry. Lively going up at 2 pm and returning at 4 am. So at 12 tonight, I shall have had my belly-full of work, having commenced at 6.30 am this morning. Had the pleasure of 1st cornet (?) joining today.

6 August – Thursday

Went for a stroll this afternoon. The natives of Moville seem to be charmingly simple in their manner of living; the men bathing stark naked and the women sitting on the grass enjoying the sight.

7 August – Friday

Captain gave a bonnet hop this afternoon which was a most successful one – lots of girls off – had great fun with one girl in my cabin. I told her she had a most charming brogue so, she immediately put it on twice as strong.

Heard from Home. Mrs Stepney suggesting Meta’s engagement had better be broke off. This after everything had been arranged and a two years’ engagement. She is a most curious woman and poor Edward is completely in her power. I like Edward very much indeed, but think it would have been much better if the match had been broken off when Meta was sent up to Scotland. She could have married sooner and be very comfortably off by this time.

Monarch joined.

8 August – Saturday

Just a line last night saying match was not broken off. I wrote and said it must go on under any circumstances. I’ve come to the conclusion Mrs Stepney is a very selfish woman.

DEPART LOUGH FOYLE

9 August – Sunday

Got underway last night, with a strong head wind against us, together with a good sea, that sent us rolling about a good deal and gave me precious little sleep, principally from gear falling down. My unfortunate telescope came down on my head and in my vexation of spirit, I hurled it away and it cannot be found now. This forenoon after getting under the Lee of the Islands of Coll and Tiree, we got into smooth water. Passed close to Staffa, which contains Fingal’s Cave, and is some 15 miles from Loch na Keal. At 2.30 furled sails and came to, in Loch na Keal about 4 pm. A large landlocked harbour, high mountains running all round. All moor land – several houses at the top of the Loch, otherwise very sparsely inhabited. We are anchored very close to the Northern shore.

ARRIVE WESTERN ISLES

10 August – Monday

Raining all day. Everyone that could get away went out with a rod, some going to Loch Ba and the river that runs into it, catching trout there. Others landing on South shore opposite the ship and doing very well there.

11 August – Tuesday

After divisions and mustering of bags to find playing cards, Lowe and I started with rods, taking young Bower with us. We struck across country to Loch and soon got wet through on the moor land. Halted at 12 and had lunch and then at 1 pm after wading across some biggish streams got to the Loch, but caught nothing, so we went to a small stream near and landed a few small trout and at 3 pm started home and got back at 5 pm having had a most delicious ramble across the heather getting capital exercise. I never felt so thoroughly tired all over, and felt that I had taken good exercise and gained a good appetite.

12 August – Slaughter Day

The Admiral went out deer-stalking with Capt. Price who rents the shooting about here – good rabbit shooting.

13 August – Thursday

Got under way at 8 am and steamed out in calms, past Staffa, Rum and Eigg Island, the latter noted for being the place where the remnants of a clan fled to from their enemies and concealed themselves in a cave. The others discovering them, blocked entrance up with brushwood and setting fire to it, quietly suffocated everyone inside.

Had sail drill in the evening.

DEPART WESTERN ISLES

ARRIVE STORNAWAY

14 August – Friday

My 24th birthday and thankful should I be, at being spared to see it, and may I be graciously spared to see another. We anchored at Stornaway about 1 pm, Triumph going inside the harbour, remainder anchoring outside.

Sir James Matheson’s palace (for by no other name can it be called) stands out large and bold above the small town. Lady Matheson gives a Ball this evening.

Got three letters, a long one from my Mother saying everything was settled now about the marriage. Mrs S. keeping to her word. I’m very glad it is all right. My other was from Miss C. of Derry – a highly scented letter. I think she must be one of 100 Manchester girls that the Mayoress of Liverpool telegraphed for and “that did not mind squeezing.”

15 August – Saturday

Ball last night was very mixed, the choice being so small. Sir James Matheson who made his money out in China, is a small king in the island, the whole of Lewis belonging to him. He has spent a great deal of money on the place and educates a large number of girls, sending them over to Edinburgh. The inside of his house is magnificently fitted up. Maitland and I went out fishing and went to Loch Alcock, a little way out. About 40 other fellows going to the Creed. We caught a lot of trout in the Loch and would have caught many more but for the tremendous wind blowing. The LewisHotel is the best place to put up in.

16 August – Sunday

Spent on board. It blowing hard from the SW, we got steam up, but at 4 pm. the wind suddenly shifted round to the NW and fell light. This is the second time it has changed so suddenly. The roadstead is quite open to SW and sheltered from other winds. A little sea tumbles in with SW, but soon goes down again.

17 August – Monday

A large budget of letters from Home. Great excitement about the Prince down at Plymouth. Lady M gives another Ball this evening. Being sent up with a letter to Admiral Hornby who stays at the Castle, I had a good look at the house and I must say it is most magnificently fitted up, and worthy of a king living in it.

DEPART STORNAWAY

18 August – Tuesday

Amidst a squall of wind and rain the Enchantress came in and it being just within seven bells, I had to go and board her. Found Mr Hunt, Adm. Sir W Tarleton, Mr Egerton and Mr Stanhope MP, for South Riding, on board. Had a yarn with Capt. Harris of Enchantress. He says they are having a very jovial cruise round the coast – nominally to visit the Naval Reserve – really, enjoying themselves yachting fishing and shooting etc. He says Ward Hunt is a very genial, jovial fellow, tremendous height and big paunch.

At 5 pm we got underweigh and made sail, shaping course for Orkneys.

ARRIVE SCAPA FLOW

19 August – Wednesday

Had signals made four times at me last night about being too far astern. The Monarch would keep astern and part of the time I was sailing abreast of her, Topsails on Cap. and yards braced bys [?]. The last time I saw the signal flashing I made sure it was for being too far ahead and stopped the engines and it rather took me aback being told the purport of the signal.

We got through the Pentland Firth about noon, passing the Skerries at 12.30 a good tide running and sea on. The springs run rate of 10½ knots and neaps at 6 knots. Tried to make out John O’Groats House on the Mainland.

We anchored at 5 pm. in a squall of wind and rain. The harbour is large and well sheltered, its only drawback being a shoal in the middle which is buoyed. Kirkwall stands at the head of harbour and looks a small town of about 3 or 4000 people. Country round is low hilly country.

Got a budget of birthday letters from all at home and heard from Miss Blandy at Madeira who told me she had sent my Mother home some chairs. Wrote a lot of letters.

20 August – Thursday

Landed with Commander and went over the Cathedral, a large building and very old, dating from 1198. It is built in form of a cross and the choir inside has been screened off and forms a Chapel for Presbyterian form of worship. Went up to the top of tower and had a very fair view of the town and surrounding country.

After coming out of Cathedral paid visits to the Earl’s Palace and Bishop’s Palace, the former being in moderately good preservation. In the banqueting hall on the second floor, with its fine large Gothic window, Sir Walter Scott lays the scene of Jack Bunce and the Pirate meeting. Below are cells, corridors, stairs and kitchen, the fireplace being of huge size, big enough to roast an ox whole, with ease. To the right of the Palace, stands the Bishop’s Palace, consisting for the most of a large round tower, having set into its outer side a small figure of his Worship.

Invested heavily in Shetland gear – it being cheap, good and very serviceable – good socks 1/3d a pair and shawls varying from 5/– to the thin, 6 guinea ones. The 7/6 and 8/– ones are the most serviceable. Ball and Lowe, Kirkwall are the best mercers.

DEPART SCAPA FLOW

21 August – Friday

Russell’s 20th birthday and I hope and trust he may see his 21st birthday. Left Kirkwall at 11 am this forenoon and passed Wick at 8 pm. It was quite a sight to see the hundreds of fishing boats all coming out of Wick. I never before in my life saw so many together all in a lump.

22 August – Saturday

Lowe is going to leave the ship and quite right too. I think he leaves in consequence of the Demon having insulted him so much and so often, and I know it is as much as I could do to remain my year. The Captain tried very hard to get him to stay.

It only strengthens me in my former opinion of Comdr Oxley, that he is insincere, trickish and not very particular about telling the truth – and I don’t think fit to be Commander. The men work for him because they fear him, but they won’t for the other officers, for he insults his officers, continually, before the men and brings them into contempt. He has no sense of honour, or, dignity himself and thinks no one else has either and takes the very lowest estimate of everyone, judging by himself.

We got into a fog this morning and lost the fleet for about a couple of hours, through a mistake in the gun signals. At 10 am picked fleet up again in Moray Firth and at 11 am entered Cromarty Firth keeping close over to the Cromarty side on account of a bank running out. Cromarty is a small town and is at entrance of Firth. The fleet anchored in single line opposite Invergordon, on the opposite shore some six miles up Invergordon is a small place, and has a railway station being on the great Northern Line.

Received letters from Home and Edward.

ARRIVE CROMARTY FIRTH

23 August – Sunday

Went ashore in the afternoon and spent the time wandering about Mr MacLeod’s park, which he has thrown open to the Fleet. Very well wooded and kept. Big house, being built.

24 August – Monday

This evening I got a telegram from my Father at 8 pm saying my G. Father Forman had died and my Mother was up in London. He died at 8 am in the morning. Poor old man, I’d just sent off, two hours before, some chocolate for his use. He was a kind, honourable, and Christian man – and a very tender Father.

I was in great hope of seeing much of him and cheering him up, when at Greenwich – and now he is gone to our Saviour for his faith was great in Jesus – and my poor dear Mother, I feel very much for her – and wish much I could be with her, to cheer and comfort her – for a more dutiful daughter never lived – and her love was great for her Parent. I trust most sincerely and pray that she may bear up under this great trial, for I can feel how much I should suffer myself if I were to lose either of my loving Parents. Wrote to my Mother – to London.

25 August – Tuesday

Heard from my Father this afternoon, who told me about my G. Father’s death and of my poor Mother’s anxiety and great wish to get up in time to see him alive, but, it was not to be – for he died at 8 am and she did not leave Plymouth until 9 am.

Francie’s fourteenth birthday. Went ashore and spent the afternoon by myself in MacLeod’s park. Wrote to my Mother.

26 August – Wednesday

Court Marital going on. I being Officer of the Court.

27 August – Thursday

Heard from Derry and from Liverpool. Landed at 1.30 pm and met Mr Mackenzie of Flowerburn with wife and ladies just going off to Triumph. Introduced myself to him – as it was raining and I was wet through, I thought I might as well take a walk, so I took a five mile walk out to Flowerburn and back leaving my card there. Met all Mackenzie’s party on going off again.

Refused Admiral Hancock’s invitation to dinner. Denison came and spent the evening with me. No letter from my Mother yet.

28 August – Friday

Left Invergordon at 11 am, having a lot of ladies on board, and steamed round to Inverness Firth, anchoring at 3 pm. We had to shift berth, which took us until 6 pm.

Much disgusted at not getting letters. Flagship not having sent up for them.

29 August – Saturday

Left ship at 9 am and went up to Inverness with Carrow in the Netley, Gunboat, meeting an old acquaintance Hammick in charge of her. Knocked about the town the forenoon, going out to the cricket field to see the match – our side being beaten. Eden of the 42nd was playing against us and making a good score. Met Denison at the Club. Came down from Inverness in steam launch and found Flowerburn on board – dined with me and went ashore at 11 pm.

30 August – Sunday

Landed immediately after Service and walked up to Flowerburn. Found several other fellows there and made both the Mrs Mackenzies’ acquaintance. They are both very charming, and the younger is very nice looking and has lots of fun in her. We had a long talk about Meta, her new cousin as she styles her. Came off to the ship at 11 pm in steam launch giving Jack Luckraft a passage to the Triumph.

31 August – Monday

Commander returned on board, having got rid of his brother – a clergyman. When Oxley got his brother’s telegram saying he was at Inverness – his fraternal remark was, “Just like the d....d parsons, gadding about, and letting their work sweat.”

1 September – Tuesday

Landed by the market boat, taking young Harford with me, and getting a lift part of the way. We fetched up to Flowerburn at 8.30 just in time for breakfast – only the old Mrs Mackenzie being there, the remainder up at Inverness.

After breakfast we started on the Moors and tried to get some grouse, but could not get a shot at any. They were lying so close and flying so wild. Hit a hare. Beat about the fields and woods getting a good many rabbits, but not seeing any partridges, I managed to knock a woodcock over and in going through some thick cover found the hare, I had shot in the forenoon, it having run at least a quarter of a mile after being shot.

Came back to dinner, found the people had not come back from Inverness. At last at 10 pm we heard the carriage wheels and were soon greeting them all . (Partridge shooting commences).

2 September – Wednesday

Sent young Harford off to the ship early this morning. Went out rabbit shooting this forenoon and at 1 pm drove down with Mr and Mrs Mackenzie and Harry Smith a young doctor, to go on board. Found it was blowing rather hard. After waiting some time – a cutter came in and as soon as some other ladies had joined our party, I shoved off under close reefed sails, the ladies being determined to come off. After an hour and a half’s beat, fetched the ship, having thrown the spray about a good deal. The ladies were very plucky and behaved very well. Had tea and band on board and a little dancing. Landed them all at 7 pm – still blowing.

DEPART CROMARTY FIRTH

3 September – Thursday

Find two of our midshipmen have been getting into trouble – Maclean and Thring. One went on leave for the day and went over to Invergordon to see a fascinating young lady there. Maclean hearing of this, on being sent ashore on duty – said “He’d be d...d before he was cut out” both of them being rivals in the graces of this young damsel. He also went over to Invergordon – and neither of them turned up until just as we were weighing this afternoon, and of course now they are under arrest.

Blowing very hard. Sultan in unmooring lost an anchor, and our steam launch got ashore last night top of high water at Fort George. I went in cutter at 3.30 am and found her all right. The soldier officers of 99th had been very civil to our fellows, some 8 or 9 from the fleet being weather-bound. Flowerburn just managed to get off to the ship in time before we weighed – in Triumph’s steam pinnace.

After getting outside the Firth did not feel wind much and towards the evening it quite dropped.

ARRIVE ABERDEEN

4 September – Friday

Whilst at General Quarters this forenoon, Couch fell overboard and was very smartly picked up by 1st cutter.

Flowerburn dined with Captain last night. I was unable to, on account of having first watch.

Anchored off Aberdeen at 2 pm. The entrance to the Dee is very narrow and a great many wrecks take place annually on the breakwater.

5 September – Saturday

Flowerburn and I went ashore by the 10 o’c boat and tried to get over Hogarth’s preserved meat establishment, but found it shut in consequence of Duke of Edinburgh’s visit to the city.

We then went to the Club and saw His Royal Highness go by and a shabby turn out it was too. As mean a thing as I’ve ever seen, like a cabstand on the march having their ticketed numbers hung outside and I did not think he was well received. There was precious little cheering. After laying the foundation stone, he went to lunch at the Lord Provost and the rest of the town council etc were regaled with wine and cake at the Town Hall.

The Ball last night given by the Royal Northern Club was very successful, there being a very large number of pretty girls there, more than at Inverness.

A rather ludicrous scene occurred in the streets. A bluejacket bringing down a Captain’s Cocked Hat in Case – two strapping lasses stepped out of a pot house and took him in tow, one on each side. The right hand one placing the cocked hat on her head and thus the three, went down the street to everyone’s amusement. I wonder if the Captain ever heard of the new wearer the hat found in Aberdeen.

Lowe and I went on one of these fishing smacks that carry a great big lug, seven reefs in them. Boats are a great beam and decked in with big hatches in the centre. They shoot their nets out (some 60 fms. long each) weighted with stones at the bottom and cork along the top and their boats ride by one corner of it, with a cable. The herrings run into the nets and are caught in the meshes by their gills.

DEPART ABERDEEN

6 September – Sunday

Weighed this evening for St Andrew’s Bay.

ARRIVE ST ANDREWS

7 September – Monday

Anchored in St Andrews Bay at 11 am this forenoon, in the middle of some thousands of jelly and starfish. I never saw so many the whole time I’ve been to sea.

8 September – Tuesday

Went ashore this forenoon and called on Mrs Findlay, portmanteau in hand made her acquaintance and that of her two daughters. Mrs F. is an invalid, having sprained her knee some time ago, and her knee has got stiff from bandages. She has been laid up now nine months and is a most charming person, very sweet tempered.

Went out sight seeing with the two girls all over the old Cathedral, a fine large ruin. Up the tower of Regulus and over the Castle and saw the window from which Archbishop Beaton beheld the Martyrdom of Wishart and others. Had a look at the links.

In the afternoon took the two girls and several other ladies off to the ship. We got the band up and had some dancing. Donald and Rickard also bringing off some girls.

In the evening, against my wish I went to the Ball taking the two Miss Findlays and I must say I never danced with a better dancer than the eldest Miss Findlay. It was most delicious dancing a slow even trois temps. We did not get away until 4 am and on coming home found Mrs F. waiting up to see us, we yarned until 5 am.

9 September – Wednesday

Went off to the ship this forenoon. On getting up this morning and after having breakfast I went up to Donald’s room to rouse him up. On getting near I heard groans and opening the door saw Donald in bed, his left leg stuck up in the air, groans of cramp coming from Donald. I rushed to his leg and rubbed it hard and at last drove the cramp away.

In the afternoon, we had a good many girls on board. The usual Tea, Band and dancing went on the whole afternoon. Although Barometer had fallen most tremendously, it did not deter Carrow, Donald, Maclean and myself from going ashore. Comdr tried to frighten us from going by saying we should not get a boat and should miss the ship. We went and had a look at the Bishop’s Mace in College and then had high tea at the Findlays and afterwards many girls coming in, we had singing music and dancing – leaving the place at 11 pm. The girls and all of us singing Auld Lang Syne together in the Hall before leaving. The Promises of Letter Writing and Photograph exchanging were numerous.

DEPART ST ANDREWS

10 September – Thursday

Fleet got under way this morning. I had morning watch. Turned out at 3.15 to shorten in, just three quarters of an hour before signal was made. Lord Ashley came up and spent half the watch on the bridge and told some amusing stories. One was about a Marine officer.

A Lady, that had once been a ‘Lady of Fortune’ had altered her mode of life and married a respectable person – well – they happened to be staying at a country house, where the lady met a former acquaintance and friend in the shape of a Marine officer. She sought for a private interview and then she said, “Now, if you will not say anything about me, my former mode of life and that I lived with you etc, for I’m getting on very well now – I’ll promise faithfully not to tell that you are a Marine Officer.”

So whenever our Marines get bumptious we just tell them this yarn.

Came on to blow off Leith, where we anchored, the Fleet going on to Queensferry some seven miles further up.

ARRIVE EDINBURGH

11 September – Friday

Heard from my Father that he had written for me to leave ship at Sunderland.

Got in fifty tons of coal and then weighed and joined the Fleet off Queensferry, mooring beyond Dalmeny Park off Inch Garvi.

Captain’s received my discharge to Half pay on arrival at Sunderland. Strong appointed to Audacious.

12 September – Saturday

Went up to Edinburgh and on to North Berwick. To my dismay finding my friends had gone over to Glasgow so there was nothing for it but to come back to Edinburgh.

Meeting McDermott and Rickard went over Holyrood Palace and the Castle, going in the former, all over Darnley’s and Queen Mary’s apartments. Saw many curious old relics, piece of Mary’s blanket etc. and saw the blood stains of Rizzio. The rooms are small, it was very interesting going over the apartments that those stirring scenes were enacted in.

The Chapel Royal, adjacent to the Palace, is unroofed and in ruins. It must have been very handsome and of good size – numerous old tombstones and stone coffins lying about forming the floor. We next walked up through old Edinboro’ Canongate, past the Tolbooth Prison, and had a look at the Castle and got a magnificent view of the city, and to my mind there is not the slightest doubt about its being the most beautiful city in the world. Calton Hill stands out well with its ruins, and the green cutting (with Sir Walter Scott’s monument on it) running between the old and new town sets the city off immensely.

We had a look at Mons Meg an old gun of great calibre made of iron bars hooped round – cast in 1400 something and has seen much service. Also Queen Margaret’s Chapel in the Castle is of very ancient structure. Came down to the ship to dinner. Turned the Band Management over to Blum. Heard from Derry.

13 September – Sunday

Boarded the Favourite which came in during the afternoon.

Afterwards took a stroll in Dalmeny Park, Lord Rosebery’s, with Lowe. Coming off to dinner.

DEPART EDINBURGH

14 September – Monday

Started from Queensferry this forenoon and passed the Bass Rock about 2 pm which was covered with birds – then slipped by Tantallon Castle in ruins. It used to be the state prison of Scotland.

Wrote to Derry.

ARRIVE SUNDERLAND

15 September – Tuesday

Anchored this forenoon off Sunderland 11 cables off the breakwater. Went ashore and made enquiries about trains etc. The town is a regular manufacturing town, very smoky etc. The streets are moderately good, the principal street High Street being very long and hilly. The river runs through the centre of the town and is spanned by a very high and good bridge – large ships easily pass underneath.

The town was decorated very much with flags and wherever the eye went it met notices and advertisements about the Channel Fleet, medals having been even struck off to commemorate their visit. Went over the Ball Room a large wooden building erected for the occasion. It is very well got up and of immense size, the names of all the Naval Heroes being placed round and hundreds of plants and flowers everywhere, with muslin curtains festooned and hung round and a great many large mirrors – altogether it is worthy of Sunderland.

The 2nd Life Guards Band has been especially kept for the occasion, £250 for the first week and on the postponement of our coming, kept on for another week at £180. The Sunderland Club adjoins the Ball Room, and is a very good Club.

Had a long letter from Lily who is in Belgium.

16 September – Wednesday

Had a letter and photos from St Andrews.

Went ashore with Warleigh and after settling about luggage etc..

We went to the Monkwearmouth Colliery and meeting Needham there and another fellow we went down the Pit, by getting into some trucks, six of them in a cage – in three tiers, two on top of two etc. At a signal off we went down 600 yards in depth, at a tremendous rate, the air rushing into our ears, rather oppressive.

Finally we alighted and got out of our trucks and found ourselves standing in a large hollow, lit up with lamps and engines round one, men blasting the rock, boys shouting, horses tramping about and trucks rushing about. We all carried small oil lamps – the upper part being of gauze – and the gauze is so fine that although gas may get into the lamp, the flame cannot escape through the gauze. We got into some empty trucks, or, barrows as they are called, and were whizzed along some twelve miles an hour along a cutting, that had been made through the seam of coal – 7 ft. 6 in. high and 15 feet wide, laid with a couple of rails. The barrows are drawn along by means of a wire rope, which is attached to a monstrous big drum, worked by machinery.

After travelling some 2½ miles, we got out and went into a side cutting and saw a couple of men almost naked, but for a clout in front, picking at the coal and filling a barrow. I took the pick and brought a lot down. The coal that these men were working at was easy working, so they only got 6d. per barrow.

As soon as a barrow is filled it is run by a pulley to the main line and as soon as 60 barrows, holding 8 cwt. each are collected together, they are run off to the Shaft, for sending up. At every 20 yards, being obliged by law, they make recesses in each side for men to get into when they see a train rushing by.

There are 1500 men, 200 horses working in the Pit. The men work in three watches 6 hours each, commencing at 4 am and going on until 10 pm. The Manager said the three last days of the week were the only days they got anything like work out of the men. The horses some of them had been 18 years below the ground and I saw two cats that had been born below and never seen daylight.

This colliery is one of the deepest in England, and until lately was the deepest. The coal field is 600 yards below surface and is very extensive. The proprietors of this Colliery, Hobart & Bell, have 3,500 acres under the sea and 500 acres land not touched yet in this one seam, and they have discovered another seam underneath. The output is 1500 tons per day and they calculate at this rate its lasting 150 years.

The way they work the coal is by running channels in the seam, the depth of seam and 15 feet wide about, from the shaft, until they come to their boundary, using theodolites. Then they run small off shoots each side, gradually working the coal away between these off shoots and propping the ground up by beams and props until all the coal is worked away. Then by taking away the props they let the ground fall in.

The pit is ventilated by means of a huge furnace, which is built into the rock and draws the air to it sending it up a pit’s mouth (there being two to every pit) and the air rushes down the other mouth and after filling the pit rushes to the furnace. The furnace had fire bars that were kept slowly revolving by means of a donkey engine and that did not require any laying.

We got into fresh air after three hours of it.

Sent all my gear off by luggage train to Greenwich.

17 September – Thursday

Went out by special train to Sir Wm Armstrong’s works at Elswick, Newcastle and saw some very curious operations of how they make the coil of a gun and weld it. The heat of the furnaces is got by means of coal gas and air consuming and throwing out a tremendous heat.

Saw some practice with a Mitrailleuse and after a very good lunch, went back to Sunderland.

At 5 o’c went to a big teetotal meeting and sat as Chairman for a couple of hours giving them a couple of extempore speeches.

ARRIVE DEVONPORT – ON LEAVE

18 September – Friday

Started last night at 10.55 pm by 3rd class and travelling all night and day changing at Durham, Normanton, Derby and Bristol I got down to Plymouth at 6 pm. meeting Meta, Russ, Rob and Baldie at the station.

On the way home they told me about my poor Mother, which affected me very much. It appears that for a long time she has been suffering from pain etc in her left breast and her recent anxieties, troubles and sorrows have helped the tumour on which she had got.

Last Sunday, Square and two others had a consultation and it was decided to have the operation at 4 pm. So after a Prayer had been offered up and one or two hymns sung my darling Mother went bravely, in the strength of God, into an adjoining room and laying herself on the operating table, and took chloroform. Had her left breast cut open and a tumour the size of a Maltese orange taken out.

My Father and the family with Sir Harry Keppel (the dear old man who was crying and saying “Now Hall give us one of your beautiful prayers”) waited below and one can imagine their joy and thankfulness when told operation was successful.

Dear Mother – I was very much affected at meeting her, but, she is looking wonderfully well considering the great shock to her system and nerves.

19 September – Saturday

Stayed at home all day. Elsie came down and spent the evening.

21 September – Monday

Paid visits to Narcissus, Lapwing, and Topaze meeting Prickett in the former. It was nine years and a half since I left the old craft and it awoke many old associations in my mind. Saw Wiseman and Shore, his Lieutenant in Lapwing, she is going to China – and had a long yarn with Jackson, Comdr of Topaze.

22 September – Tuesday

My Mother getting on famously.

Meta continually receiving presents, which number now between forty and fifty, all of value. Made mine today and had to limit it to £10 in consequence of the shattered state of my finances. A year ago I had intended to have given her a £32 coral bracelet, but circumstances have changed.

Wedding to come off on the 13th prox.

23 September – Wednesday

“14 and 4 is 24 – All right”, says Jago. Took a long walk with my Father who told me all about his first going to sea, and a more persevering, interesting and instructive (besides being most amusing) career, I never heard of. I’d write it down but, that it would take so long and as most of it is written down already in my Father’s Journal. I shall now begin keeping my Journal in another book.