HMS STYX

[6-gun paddle sloop]

1851

PASSAGE TO SOUTH AFRICA

William commissioned HMS Styx on July 29th in Devonport and sailed for South Africa on August 7th. Having called at Madeira on August 14th for two days to take on 188 tons of coal, she arrived at Simons Town on the September 29th.

As this is the first long passage made by a steam ship in these records it is perhaps worth looking at it in more detail. The distance from Plymouth to Madeira is about 1200 miles and from Madeira to Simons Town about 4700, giving a total distance of 5900. The first leg of the passage to Madeira, which took seven days, was made under steam at an average speed of over 7 knts. During the second leg, which took 44 days, the ship was under sail for 23 days or just over half the time.

These figures illustrates the problem faced by early steamships. There was not a suitable coaling station between Madeira and Cape Town, yet by the time Styx had reached Madeira she had used up ¾ of her fuel having covered only one fifth of the distance. It was not until the efficiency of engines had improved and the number of coaling stations increased that ships serving in distant waters could dispense with sail power. This was not to happen for another thirty years.

However despite the limitations of steam power it is worth comparing this passage with one made under sail by William's father, James Hall, in Andromache only 16 years earlier. Andromache sailed from Plymouth on the 5th February 1834 and reached Cape Town on the 6th May, 90 days later.

August 28th

We have been under steam with the exception of a few hours yesterday, since Sunday.

September 15th

Since closing this book a proportionate share of disappointment has been my lot. Although we crossed so far to windward the Trade [wind] has been very ill natured in its direction and whilst we have been daily, nay hourly, expecting the Ship would come up and make Southing she has never made better than SW. Her sailing qualities are most excellent; with the Mainsail touching and braced sharp up she has gone 9½ knots, and one 24 hours made 197 miles good. The spray and rain damaged our paint but still as we were rattling along through the Trade everything could be tolerated. I had joyfully anticipated what our performances were to be under steam, and having examined the Steam Register in which it was shown that two days before reaching Madeira she had made 180 miles in 24 hours with 2 boilers on 2 Grades of Expansion. Calculated with justice we should do as well, although a faint hope gained strength that it should be better and for the following causes. The defective Tubes had been replaced with new ones. The Boiler had been cleaned. All Tubes swept, and in my Zeal, as black as a Sweep, I had crawled thro' the flues and given directions that about a quart of soot should be removed from the ends of the Tubes in spite of the Engineer saying, that small quantity was nothing, and was always left. Then again the facing of the Slide Casing of Starb'd. Cylinder had been repaired, and lastly, the 'Ton of Coal' we were to commence with was English, or rather procured in England, and the Ship now had first used provision water and Fuel to work the wheels at the most advantageous immersion.

Styx had arrived in Cape Colony during the 8th Kaffir War. This was the last of a series of conflicts, the first had been in 1811-12, between the white settlers and the Kaffirs, who with the Hottentots had been the original inhabitants of the area. The war had started at the end of 1850 and was being conducted by the Governor and Commander in Chief, General Sir Harry Smith, who had successfully concluded the previous Kaffir war in 1848.

The main area of military operations lay 500 miles E of Cape Town and Sir Harry had his headquarters at King Williams Town, 35 miles NW of the port of East London, which lay at the mouth of the Buffalo River. The role of Styx was to carry personnel, livestock, stores and dispatches between Cape Town and the military in the east part of Cape Province. The mouth of the Buffalo River was the main port used for disembarkation, although she sometimes anchored in Algoa Bay off Port Elizabeth.

In her first year on the station Styx made the round trip to Buffalo River 13 times. Each trip took about ten days, a three or four days passage each way and a couple of days unloading. In between trips the ship was at anchor either off Simons Town in False Bay or in Table Bay, depending on the prevailing wind.

The cargo carried varied considerably. On her first voyage in October Styx carried 230 men of the 12th Lancers and 75 of their horses. By the end of February over 300 horses and 32 mules had been embarked with the aid of a hand operated derrick. The horses appear to have lived on the upper deck in temporarily constructed stables The ship's companies view of all this equine activity is not recorded. Another interesting cargo was specie. The ship's Log records the arrival of four packages of money with a total value of £120 000 (about £7 million in today's money) being received between October and April.

The passengers were nearly as varied as the cargo. Apart from the soldiers he carried some of their wives and families and other ladies whose relationship was less formal.

September 30th

At 8 am on the 30th landed and ordered a curricle to proceed to Simons Bay to report myself to the Commodore Wyvill. The streets are wide and regularly built, but the absence of pavement and stones appeared odd. There is a mixture of a foreign and English town also, which is much strengthened on the one side by the motley group of Malays, Hottentots and all other Nations. Whilst waiting for the vehicle and breakfast at Parker's hotel, met Fishbourne who walked up with me to Government House and introduced me to Lady Smith, who received me most kindly and told me I had come where there was a great deal of hard work, wished me to remain to breakfast and gave me an invitation to remain at Government House whenever I lay in Table Bay. Although Fishbourne was very kind and gave himself some trouble to initiate me into the duty I should have to perform, I was rather disgusted at the concluding sentence of our conversation. 'But,' said he, 'you will have tremendous uphill work I tell you, coming after us.' Of course, I thought, more troops to go, or worse weather might be the reason of his saying so. On asking him the meaning, he replied, 'The Hermes is a great favourite with everyone; I never made difficulties and we were fortunate in always doing well.' I certainly think he might have kept that to himself, but it at once determined me to do as much as the Hermes. He said he had taken a regiment to the Buffalo from Mauritius, and as 2 or 3 others were saying what the Hermes had carried, I was quite prepared to meet with great partiality to her from all quarters.

October 7th

Embarked 75 hands. Lt. Colonel Pole and 230 of the 12th Lancers, and I believe seven Levies came on board, as also various other passengers. Nothing could exceed the good temper shown by all on board, and the appreciation of any trouble we took to make, the officers comfortable, crowded as we were. They had no place to hang up cots, and it was pleasing to see fellows with their £6000 and £8000 a year, roll themselves up in their cloak, and throw themselves down among the forage for the night without a word of complaint. The most united feeling evidently among the Colonel, Officers and men will cause them to work well in the Officers' Mess, and the 10 days we were all shipmates, produced very warm feelings among us all, men and officers.

OFF BUFFALO RIVER - EAST LONDON

October 13th.

Off Buffalo River. Each boatload of Lancers were cheered by us, and we parted from our passengers with mutual goodwill. They were most contented, and gave no trouble.

Afterwards landed at East London and was at once struck with the totally unprotected state the huts and buildings are from any attack. I consider it disgraceful. This spot which all the supplies and reinforcements come to the important establishment of Surf Boats, which are the actual means of receiving them [lie] entirely at the mercy of the enemy. The line of communication is kept open by, and our coast protected through the friendship of Pato and his Tribe, but it ought to be borne in mind this very man whose alliance we now maintain by rations and presents, was the last Chief who gave in during the last War. And should any great reverse happen to us, who can depend upon his Tribe or himself? It is disgraceful to all who are concerned but particularly those who live there - for the number of days the Surf Boat men are unemployed afloat, they could be beneficially employed in throwing up a wall and ditch from the river right across the neck of land and enclosing the Settlement. Our boat's guns might be well placed and the boats protected. As it is, you see numerous Kaffirs about the place, counting every soul that lands, and are so many spies. The residents tell me that these Kaffirs honestly say, 'We are friendly now because it is our interest to be so, you are stronger than we, but we hope to see you driven out of the land.' Then what a delusive and improper security our people live in. They have a loop-holed Block House Barracks on the brow of the hill which of course the Kaffirs would not go near.

AT CAPETOWN

October 21st

Having 2 days since answered Mrs. Campbell's note requesting a passage, telling her either an order from the Commodore, or requisition from Colonial Secretary, Mrs. Campbell went to him and he wrote a note giving me 'authority'. This compelled me to call and point out his error, it was an official requisition, which he would not then give, and having established the line made him understand it was a matter of favour. In the meantime Lady Smith was furious at Ladies going up to join their husbands, and on Sunday she had received a letter from Sir Harry Smith saying how much he deprecated it, and stating that his Nephew had as little idea of his Wife's coming as he himself had. Lady Smith begged me to read that portion and with Stirling call on Mrs. Campbell and relate it, which I did. Poor soul, after battling Stirling's arguments for some time, in a most independent manner, and referring to Lady Smith's excessively rude behaviour to her the preceding day, she gave way to her feelings. She was quite overcome and said to me, 'Capt. Hall, if you are afraid of offending Sir Harry or Lady Smith, pray do not take me.' I assured her of my independence, and took leave for a few moments, calling back alone when we had a long talk. The affection she showed quite won my heart. She said, 'Why, suppose my husband was wounded, who should be by his side, or who would he wish to have as soon as his wife? The Adjutant of the 75th was killed,' and then (evidently working herself up to command her feelings) 'if anything should happen to my husband, if he were killed, I should never be happy if I did not see him before he was buried.' As I am a most chicken-hearted fellow I could scarcely refrain from tears. The news also had just come in of 40 killed and wounded, including among the former, Lt. Norris of the 6th, and 2 or 3 dangerously wounded Officers.

October 28th

Punished Jas. Cuss with 36 lashes, much against my Will. Last night a 6 dozen case of Port in Pints was broken open and all but 5 gone. 3 of the number was in the heart of his Frock and 2 in his Mess Table. I mustered the Hands and found 20 more or less drunk, most of them Petty Officers. It was sent on board with commissariat Stores and not even a line to say what it contained. I sincerely hope Corporal Punishment may be unnecessary for some time to come, but it is as well to show that if necessary no qualms of Conscience will prevent your using the Power. Whilst on this matter, went on board the Yankee, who appeared to be in very bad discipline. They were coaling and the noise and shouting was very loud. The Officer with whom I was walking sent forward twice to desire them to make less noise... quite unheeded. I thought it a good opportunity to ask how they got on without Corporal Punishment in their Navy. 'Very bad,' was his answer, 'so bad that 3,000 of our best Seamen have presented a petition at Washington to re-establish it, for the good men do all the work.' I asked if it was a fact, and he said, 'It is a fact, they have petitioned.' I asked what punishment he had now, and he said one was making a man fast by his thumbs with his toes just touching the deck, in which position he was left for 4 hours, then let down for a short time and given a biscuit and drink of water. The Surgeon examined him and he was tied up again. She appears in bad order and discipline - Crew young and very old and dirty. She stores 1,000 ton of Coal, but so many different stories were told about her performances, that it would be folly to believe every one and consequently greater to note it.

November 11th

After Breakfast was much interested in listening to the eventful life of Lady Smith and the astonishing memory for dates and names she possesses which induced me to tell her that she should have an amanuensis and write her history, which is stranger than fiction. Parted with warm invitation to return.

MOSSEL BAY TO PORT ELIZABETH

November 12th

Anchored in Mossel Bay for the purpose of embarking 100 Foot Levies and 50 of Montagu's Horse, and having read of Clavering's Horse and others, in the days of Cavaliers and Roundheads, was led to believe a sort of Yeomanry Corps comprised this force who derived the name from the Colonial Secretary, and I made sure I should find all as he, Mr. Montagu, stated.

They would not detain me 2 hours, as they were quite ready and had been written to. Swallowing a hasty breakfast and seeing no signs of either Totties or Horse, landed with Stirling and walked up to a house where a crowd was collected round, and soon found the ragged drunken mulatto crew were the Foot Levies, and a tall stout man in a blue coat and black hat, was the great man of the place, Magistrate - Commissioner, etc., rejoicing in the name of Marsh, who with 2 satellites under the name of Courtalles were persuading, entreating, shaking and bullying them to stand steady in double file while he said something to them. They were all, as I said before, more or less drunk, and all were talking, some wearing their worn out Jim Crow hats with a dirty ostrich feather over their heads, saying 'All right, I go Kaffirland, I know Sir Harry. All right Massa Marsh. Sir Harry know me, he see me fight in Kaffir land, I don't care one damn for all Kaffir. All right me go Massa Marsh. I go fight.' Another equally vociferous 'I want my gooman, me must have my gooman, she get all my clothes - me bare (slapping his behinderments which were assuredly in that state) me no able to go into bush this way.'

Mr. Marsh with great pomp coughed and cleared his throat and said, 'Now, Mossel Bay Burghers, you are going to embark and fight for your country, men,' and (evidently with studied effect) he unbound a large Blue Flag which fluttered in the breeze, showing the B.L. emblazoned on its folds. 'I confide these Colours to your care and keeping, keep them in honour, let the enemy see them, but never let him take them' the remainder was cut short by his roaring out, 'Stop them, - stop them, there they go, Courtalles, round the corner, three of them,' and turning round found others rushing up to the Canteen to which he called out, 'Hie, Hie, Stop Sir, down to the boat directly,' but the Totties cut off and laughed whilst one fellow was holding the Colours like a Standard bearer. They fled in all directions except half a dozen who were too drunk to keep on their pins, these dropped where they were, and the Courtalles and Mr. Marsh having lost in the chase of the others, made a most gallant onslaught on them, and dragged them down to the jetty, pitching them into the boat.

It was too absurd after the instructions they had received before the speech commenced about their wheeling right about by 2's and marching in double file to the boat. I roared. Stirling joined in, and on Marsh returning quite blown with his fruitless exertions, he stammered out his wrath as he gained his wind at our laughing and was surprised when I told him it was enough to make the devil laugh. 'But where are the Horsemen, Mr. Marsh?' 'They are getting their Horses and soon will be here,and, added 'the Courtalles, there will be no trouble with them ; they are respectable sort of men and nearly all Englishmen - regular Burghers.'

About of an hour after this I found a man lying on the ground quite insensible; the struggle had dragged a blue Guernsey Frock over his face, so that he was nearly smothered; a pair of dirty canvas breeches well covered with tar showed his occupation led him on the waters, whilst a large rusty spear strapped over his naked instep and an old shoe with his toes protruding through, led me to believe him to be one of the Regular Burghers. The fact was soon assured me by another fellow - evidently a run-away sailor - galloping down the slope, and nearly over him, banging off his musket as he brought his horse up all standing within an inch of the fellow's covered face and bawling out, 'I say, Bill, where have you left your Horse?'

Two men very nearly as drunk came to the protection of their fallen comrade, and regularly bounced this man's horse off which was nearly kicking and trampling on him several times, owing to the pitching of the spear and jerking at the bridle by his drunken master. These were 'Montagu's Horse' and as bad a specimen of men as I ever met; they all appeared of the same stamp, lawless drunken fellows who had taken the £23 bounty and purchased as miserable a horse as they could find, of course making as much as they could.

As for evidence it was not half strong enough for their behaviour which compelled me to resort to harsh measures inasmuch as on one fellow, walking away and said he would not come on board, I disarmed him at the same moment as Stirling knocked him down. He was very civil, touched his hat and smothered me with respect when we next faced him. 2 horses went over the Jetty, a fall of 10 feet into the water, one man jumped overboard and was just able to swim on shore, defying everyone to take him off. 4 of the Cutter's crew quietly fisted him down. One fellow was very persevering in asking 'Who I was' When on board, strangely enough, the same fellow among others came to request they might have rations, as they were all starving. So I just stopped all their grub, and served out nothing to any of them; it is interesting when you touch a man's stomach how his bumptiousness goes out of him. They were as meek as lambs by 8 pm, and 8 am on the following day quite mild and respectable members of society except in skin and garments.

At 3.30 started with 125 Horses and 250 Levies. The next day we reached Cape Recife at 11 pm The troops are all called in; the patrol had been out 46 days and were shoeless and in rags. No troops ever underwent more severe work.

SIMONSTOWN

November 21st

Found among the passengers Captain & Mrs. Fenwick, who had arrived from Mauritius a few days previously with a Company of Sappers and Miners ordered to the frontier, and to show the wisdom of the Authorities in England, they have actually ordered these troops 600 miles past the place their services were required - namely East London. This among the frequent proofs of want of organisation shows that although 'a very old Nation' we are a very green one at times. Reached Westbrook at 9. Found the Commodore was with Mr. Frere, a few yards outside the Gates. Lady Smith was very kind and apparently pleased to see me, till she asked me whether Mrs. Campbell was going up with me. Upon my answering in the affirmative she opened a broadside of envy, hatred, malice and all uncharitableness which astonished me and showed the nature of her Country in its most unfavourable peculiarities. I quietly remarked 'that I understood from her she always had followed Sir Harry to the field.' This caused a parting shot, and I was glad to slip and make sail to the Commodore, to whom I gave Sir Harry's letter, before opening it; he also told me to have nothing to do with Mrs. Campbell's journey up (evidently primed by her Ladyship) but on reading Sir Harry's note he altered his tone, for the latter had said 'Pray let Mrs. Campbell come up in Steamer and let her be the last.'

Paid Mrs. Campbell a visit with the Commodore. Returned at 6 pm to dinner, meeting De Smidt. After dinner another growl about Mrs. Campbell's going up. Whilst the others settled to whist, I took my moorings in an easy chair and having been on my legs 36 hours I dozed off whilst listening. Before parting for the night her Ladyship remarked that she could tell me people in town were beginning to talk about Captain Hall and Mrs. Campbell. I replied that if a man had a clear conscience he did not care a pin what people said.

Christmas Day

This day a few years since was invariably one of riot and every discomfort on board ships of War. The reins of discipline were so much relaxed that sometimes they slipped altogether and the end of it was that Officers were frequently insulted, crimes glossed over, and a multitudinous array of bunged eyes and broken noses cruising round the decks ushered in the New Year.

BUFFALO RIVER - EAST LONDON

December 28th

As usual a hardworking day off the Buffalo, everything clear by 2 pm. News from Kaffir reports are most favourable; no official intelligence from Eyre's Patrol, but his success has been great according to these accounts. Sandilli has sent to the Governor to ask for terms. Seydo has also sent to McLean, the T'Slambie Commissioner, to beg him to intercede for him. A rebel Hottentot was taken at Whitterea on the point of starvation; he says the Kaffirs are in a state of great destitution, and he has promised to show the troops where a great number of Muller's cattle are located; in fact, things have never assumed so pleasing a prospect before. The crops are ready for gathering and it now depends on the firmness of Sir Harry.

Last year he allowed them to gather the crops as he thought it would be cruel to their families; if he permits them to do so this year it will most probably prolong the war, for if they are allowed to sow and reap and plunder our cattle, there will be no end to it. Another report from a spy is that they are so much in want of powder, Sandilli could only spare 2 cartridges each a few days since. This, added to the arrival of the 43rd, may dishearten them much.

General Somerset's division has taken 2,500 head of cattle whilst MacKinnon's have literally done nothing. Everyone complains of him - in fact, Sir Harry is unfortunate in having such leaders and still more to be pitied for having got into the habit of lavishing so much praise on their personal merits when everyone knows they are totally undeserving.

1852

SIMONS TOWN

January 9th

Sir Harry's letter to Lady Smith was dated the 2nd and in it he states that Colonel Eyre's Patrol had 7000 head of cattle and General Somerset's 6000. They were in communication with each other. The Kaffirs were hard pressed. Not a word is said about MacKinnon's Patrol who it is generally supposed will do nothing to speak of. I have never heard anyone mention him except to accuse him of very great incompetency and only fit for an office.

KINGWILLIAMSTOWN

February 2nd

The Mule waggon sent by the Governor (the majority of the party having gone on horseback) conveying Brent, Liardet and Turner. The day was the warmest they had experienced this summer, the road dreadfully dusty, and we had not proceeded a mile before we found our team were not accustomed to pull together, and having only been landed 24 hours before were not quite up to the 40 mile journey. The team, called a Span, consisted of 8 which is the usual number when mules are employed, from their being driven by reins and under the reach of the whip. (Oxen have double the number and 16 is a common Span).

The first 7 miles to Fort Grey the road had a great trend to the Coast line. The numerous bulbs of the most brilliant hues and striking contrasts, as well as the fine fresh atmosphere certainly made this stage a most pleasant one; we had not got well heated and the novelty was a charm. Upon reaching the loop-holed mud wall built as a square, dignified under the name of a Fort and called after the Colonial Secretary, it at once struck me how absurd and wrong it was terming such a place a Fort, for if one had read in the Weymouth Reading Room, as I have read, Fort So-and-So invested by Kaffirs - you would imagine a stone building, embrasures, curtains, etc., etc., and deem the Kaffirs very bold and picture breaching batteries to yourself. But the reverse is the fact. They are much weaker than they should be. The stakes are so badly driven at Pato, the next one, that Musket Balls and Assegais would easily find their way in.

The Escort was changed and the next step was to Fort Pato 17 miles; on this road we passed several herds of magnificent cattle with their large horns, and many forming 3 parts of a mile, so even and correct to a degree. Their hides shining and sleek, and the whole country resembling a Park with thickets. Few trees, and those of a small size. At 3 we arrived at Fort Pato, which has much less pretension to the name than even Grey has. For about a mile on the other side of this Fort a dense bush exists, and it is rightly considered the most dangerous part of the road, for the bush in some spots touch both sides of the waggon. A few Kaffirs would destroy with the greatest ease the strongest convoy, and really with comparative, or I may say perfect, safety to themselves. It is really too bad that this state of things should be permitted to exist. The remedy is so easy. The trees are of a small size and the 50 men quartered at Fort Pato with the least trouble could cut down on both sides the road for a quarter of a mile.

During the journey we met several armed Kaffirs, who are always 'friendly' Kaffirs when they are the weaker side. But the facts are these. Pato, through whose territory we were travelling, was the last Chief to give in during the last War; his friendship is now secured by presents of cattle to his Tribe and personal gifts to himself. At the same time he is a drunken dog and has a son who is particularly anxious to join the War party against us, so that if anything occurred to Pato we should undoubtedly have this Tribe hostile; the neglect is inexcusable - instead of taking advantage and making the road so secure that we should be more independent of them, all goes on as smoothly as if the Kaffirs were as much inimical to fighting as the quakers and the amiable race of Aborigines represented by the Exeter Hall Party.

At 7 pm we reached Fort Murray where dwells Capt. Maclean the T'Slambie Commissioner he is generally thought a very clever Officer and one particularly capable of dealing with the Kaffir character. The T'Slambie Tribes comprise Pato, Seydo, and although unable to deal with them except through an interpreter, his foresight is most beneficial. Pato, the Chief lives in a back room at his house under strict surveillance which is managed extremely well, that the Sentinel having charge of his body is supposed by the Kaffir as a species of Guard of Honour. The neat home and prettily laid out garden with the birds singing their evening song hushing them to their rest with his wife and children walking in it, was a scene which made one almost imagine the Kaffir war with its cruelties was a gross mistake. And Mr. Maclean (when I remained whilst my shipmates went in to see Pato) assured me from the commencement they had never felt the least alarm and found no reason to do so.

My shipmates were pleased at seeing Pato, who when summoned by Maclean, made his appearance with the usual covering over his shoulders - a dirty blanket which had assumed a brick dust colour from the dye with which they stain their bodies, made from the bark of the Mimosa tree.

On his entering, Maclean turned his back on him and during the few minutes interview Pato contrived to beg 2 or 3 shillings from his visitors with which he will probably buy liquor at KingWilliamstown. The visit over he was ordered out, and on his shewing a symptom of remaining a little longer, the order with a wave of the hand was given in a more peremptory tone, and throughout all the proceedings Maclean manifested the most thorough contempt for him.

I have an idea from this, that in dealing with half-civilised races, it is much better to make them comprehend our ways and customs and ascend toward our forms and meaning conveyed by words, than descend to their idioms; it is like grafting civilisation on the stock of barbarity.

After remaining about half an hour we started and a few minutes drive brought us to the Ford of the Buffalo River, which was down in a hollow, and just wide enough for the whole team to enjoy their drink at the same time, whilst the waggon was just entering, it therefore appeared to be about 12 or 14 yards wide, and up to their knees in the deepest part. The stars and moon shining brightly on the top of our canvas kloofs, and yet owing to the gully we were in, on a level with the mules was darkness sufficient to shew the Fireflies roving about. The long indraught of water the poor mules enjoyed so gratefully and their hard breathing out resembling a sigh of thankfulness - for they had come a long hard journey in a boiling day without a drink from the impossibility of getting one.

A few minutes after 10 we reached Kingwilliamstown and found a messenger waiting from Sir Harry to say dinner was prepared for us, and we were to dispense with all ceremony and dress and at once to go to his quarters which a few minutes walk took us to, and a most kind hearty welcome he gave us. The cloth was laid and dinner on it, but having enjoyed one at Fort Pato from the stock we brought purposely on shore - a cup of coffee was all that we required. I had anticipated meeting a careworn slow-speaking general but I found an apparently active, energetic, and fine specimen of a gallant soldier; he looked like one, a capital figure, with a body as erect as though a young 'Cruity' [recruit] on parade - short in stature, grey hair, and a loud commanding voice. The kind compliments being over, and as he always retired shortly after 10, having made the arrangements for meeting at breakfast, his nephew and Aide de Camp, Captain Smith took me over to my quarters which was a house rented by the Crown for Major Hogge, but lent by the latter to Major Pinkney of the 73rd, the latter being out on Patrol.

Campbell had made it all right for my occupancy and a most fortunate fellow I was, for the exorbitant price for house rent would be disbelieved unless one had been on the spot. However, this was a small cottage on ground floor - the latter not being planked or paved - 4 small rooms which included the kitchen and not nearly as decent as the Coast Guard cottages and the rent paid is £7 per month.

Finding Campbell's servant there, I sent a message down to know how Mrs. Campbell was, and to my great joy Campbell himself returned; this gave me relief for had he not been out at Patrol my visit to her would have been very short. She has been ill and upon my walking to his home, I was pained at seeing the difference in her appearance which visibly bore out her statement she had not been well since she came up. Low spirited, very thin and pale and suffering from a cough and pain in her side. I declare it grieved me.

February 3rd

Rose early and found the tents with a bright moon shining on them was a much more pleasing picture than with a glaring sun, and at this early hour the heat was most oppressive and gave indications of what might be expected at mid-day.

A number of mean straggling houses and numerous Tents constitute Kingwilliamstown, the only exception being 3 or 4 well built stone buildings, namely Col. Mackinnon's dwelling as Commissioner of Kaifraria, the Mess Room of the 6th and small Hospital. At 8 breakfasted with Sir Harry, none of the staff opening their mouths except to eat and drink. Engaged to ride at 4 and dine at 7, and spent the remainder of the time from breakfast partly at Campbell's and partly walking round the encampment. The worst possible arrangements appear to exist with regard to Hospital accommodation. The stone buildings I have named were intended for the sick of one Regiment and made up about 18 or 20 beds - at present they have upwards of 400 and the poor fellows crammed under canvas suffering from fever and dying one or two daily. The Deputy Inspector of Hospitals appears too old and slow for his work.

Now 40 miles from this warm and by no means healthy place is the Buffalo Mouth with its fine bracing sea air and where officers get leave when sick to come to recoup. Wooden Hospitals might have been sent out and put up there. The continual trains of return waggons might have brought down the sick and I doubt not, under Divine aid many who have gone to the grave might have been fit for the field. Too much is left to Hospital Sergeants in the Army and I would not give Sandler or Sheer for the whole of the Medical Staff of the Army.

Of course the unexpected influx of Troops has been the fortune of the builders, and those owning houses. As a specimen a house has just been hired by the 43rd as a Mess House - nothing but the walls and windows, a two storey house with 6 or 8 rooms for £30 a month, and all others in proportion. A place called the Hotel was let I am informed this day for £400 the year. Met many of our passengers and in conversation both with them and others, the corruption and disgraceful conduct of General Somerset was the principal topic of conversation. The free and unrestrained remarks astonished me at first, but these were not to be wondered at when his conduct and neglect has been so glaring.

In the first place the general expression is 'That fellow Somerset made his fortune by Waggon hire last War, and he is trying to do it this.' He wishes to prolong the War, from getting so much more pay and allowances. The Cape Corps is a species of family monopoly to him, having his relatives in it as Officers, and they also say as men, bastard children in the ranks. On more than two occasions he has directly disobeyed Sir Harry's orders. From two sources I was informed that although he had many empty waggons on his return from the Vlei, he hired 3 at £1 a day each from a Trader named Crouch to whom he is said to owe money - and that when the Divisions met on the Vlei, the European Troops of Mackinnon's had the mortification of seeing the Totties living in Tents belonging to Somerset's Division whilst their canopy was the clouds. They also publicly report that he had 3 or 4 prostitutes - Hottentots - with him, and from the care he takes of himself, travelling with every luxury and convenience, keeping well in a General's place; these Patrols, which are killing work to all under his command are a species of pleasure picnic to him with the knowledge of his getting out of debt by the prolongation of the War. It is an indisputable fact that during the previous wars many waggons hired by him were his own under the name of others.

Found that Sir Harry permitted me to proceed to the mouth of the Vlei; our aid would have been valuable, for the cattle, as I expected, were driven there and on one occasion Eyre's Patrol went along the coast 5 miles after them.

At 4 pm rode with Sir Harry and Colonel Cloete, C.B. the day was most oppressive and I felt quite ill from the heat. Sir Harry said he never could forget the services of the Styx and paid me many high compliments, alluding to his helping me by assisting me in promotion, and was very kind, but he is generally so lavish in his praises that 2 words from the Commodore I should value more than a dozen from Sir Harry. He has praised Somerset when he should have been censured and now has his hands tied; never was there a greater error ever committed than his coming out here, and his friends have been the ruin of him.

After riding we met at 7, a small close room and altogether the warmest, and at the same time most frigid dinner I ever sat down to, for none of the staff ever spoke. I was heartily glad when we broke up and Sir Harry went to his whist, the gaunt cold-hearted selfish Commissioner walking in to make the 4th, which he always does.

February 4th

Another warm day. Sandilli's Councillors came in, the speaker having a pair of old leather breeches on, the others in their dirty blankets, which they threw off them and sat on their hams, their arms folded and resting on their knees, their chins on their knees and their cute cunning looks with drops of perspiration falling from their brows whilst listening to the reply of Sir Harry as arranged through Mr. Ayliff the Interpreter. Their speech was that they wished for a cessation of a few days to the crop destroying, to enable the Chiefs to meet and consult what to do. This was properly refused and as there was nothing subdued in their tone, they doubtless purpose holding out. A cool trick was riding one of the Cape Corps horses in, which was at once recognised. About mid-day it commenced raining in torrents; this prevented my returning the same evening to Buffalo. Dined with Campbell and was pained to see his good little wife so ill and as Shea has recommended a change of air, I trust my next trip will be to take her back unless wonderfully better, or there is much room for improvement.

February 5th

At 4 am still pouring, but at 7 after much perseverance we made a start. The mule driver thought we might get as far as Fort Murray, whilst they knew the mules never could maintain their footing to drag us up hills. Several of my shipmates who were riding looked anything but pleasant, for the prospect was a damp one. However, after some trouble we were fairly off and in due time reached Fort Murray, where instead of resting I made them push right on, reaching at 2 - Fort Pato, and after an hour's detention to feed the mules finally arrived at Fort Glamorgan at 7 pm Just at dusk, wet through, but a good hospitable dinner awaited us, and I was never more pleased than getting sight of the Styx.

SIMONS TOWN

February 23rd

At noon the Birkenhead arrived having left Cork on the 7th bringing drafts for all the Regiments amounting to 464. The news by the Birkenhead is important. Louis Napoleon President for 10 years. Lord Palmerston resigned, Lord Granville appointed in his place.

February 25th

Sir Harry Smith recalled. Major General the Honble. Geo. Cathcart appointed. It will be a sad blow to him, more especially as there is a prospect of concluding the War. I can pity poor Lady Smith, who will feel it much.

ALGOA BAY

Wednesday, March 3rd

Arrived at Algoa Bay about noon and received the sad and surprising intelligence of the loss of the Birkenhead with upwards of 500 souls on board. I declare I can scarcely realise it, having been on board this day week just before starting and seen Archbold, the Gunner, who was my old Shipmate in the Vindictive. The account states she sank in 20 minutes after striking - all the Officers of the ship are drowned except the Asst. Surgeon, Dr. Culhane, an Engineer Officer, Master's Asst. Richards and a Clerk named Freshfield, and all but a staff Surgeon among the Officers of the Army.

March 5th

I must not forget naming among our passengers Field Cornet Andreas Botha, who will be tried for high treason; he is one of the Hut River Settlement, and it is the opinion of many that important evidence may be disclosed during his trial, and that Sir Andreas Stockensturn in some manner will be implicated, if not actively fermenting it, yet passively countenancing it, and keeping it secret. He is an old man, But a very clever looking head and determined countenance. Major Hogge, who commanded 1200 Levies during the last War states that he has done good service, and is a most courageous fellow. Several witnesses for the prosecution came on board with him, among them the Revd. Mr. Thomson of the Glasgow Missionary Society; he is I believe very much respected in the Colony.

During the day had much interesting and useful information on the State of the Colony from Major Hogge, which his position of Asst. Commissioner, added to his local knowledge and long experience, render most valuable. When I named the only remedy to preserve the Colony was emigration on a large scale, I was pleased to find that his decided opinion was similar, and that the Amatilas should be peopled by English. The climate most excellent and fertile. He has lately returned from Moshesh, and the Orange River Sovereignty and states; we ought never to have occupied it, but having done so, it will never do to recede. Every Kaffir must be across the Kei which should be the boundary of the Colony and all the Kaffirs caught on this side should be shot. Moshesh it appears is the most civilised of all the Chiefs and instead of being in nature's garb as I imagined, I find the Chief like a European; gold lace trousers, boots, coat and hat, black large neck handkerchief with neat collars, and talks in different type from the others. For instance, he remarked 'It was a great mistake England making war on me, but then it is to be expected she will make mistakes sometimes; see how much She has to think of India, Australia, America and others.'

March 7th.

A look out on the part of the Officer of the Watch of the Birkenhead was I hear wanting. Various reports are abroad all speaking very much against the discipline of the Ship - and I have been told it was the common remark, that if they arrived at their destination safely, it would be a miracle. It is said, the Birth night of the unhappy Officer of the Watch had been kept up the same night. There are two things which present themselves to my mind on this melancholy occasion. The Troopships are not efficient when commanded by Masters, from the paucity of responsible Officers, and that all Troopships should have more Boats hanging outside. It is said she struck off Point Danger, but I forbear writing any more until our arrival at Simons Bay. Thank God for so mercifully preserving us in our voyages, for 10 or 12 times have we passed this dangerous place at Night, and the last time on Friday it was a dense fog. The time previous I pointed out to Ellis rocks breaking apparently ½ a mile farther out than we had seen it, and said let it be a warning.

TABLE BAY

March 31st

Table Bay at 4 pm Hydra arrived; boarded her and had an interview with General Cathcart in his cot; he wished for the news. The last report was that the Kaffirs were waiting to see what sort of person he was and were ready for Peace or War - this seemed to amuse him.

Sir Harry has written to say he wishes to return by Styx; dined with Lady Smith whose birthday it is.

EAST LONDON TO TABLE BAY

April 11th

At noon we observed by the body of horsemen (Kaffirs) and 7 mule waggons which came over the hill that Sir Harry had arrived, and by 1 pm he came on board. Receiving him with all the ceremony of a Governor, I was quite shocked at his appearance as I helped him over the Gangway, and he was evidently suffering in mind and body.

After remarking how beautifully clean we were and what a fine ship, he went to bed and told me he was quite overcome taking leave of his soldiers.

April 12th.

Sir Harry still very unwell; during the day I had a short interview with him, and was pleased at the warm expressions of appreciation he used relative to our Services, 'and,' said he, 'Hall, don't you be afraid of me; I have more interest than ever, for Lord Grey has made a Martyr of me, and the people in England like Martyrs. They are always fond of Martyrs, and I shall make a point of claiming your promotion on Public grounds.'

April 14th

At noon rounded Green Point, and with an Ensign at each Masthead, steamed at full speed into the Bay. Thousands of people flocked to the landing place, and Triumphal Arches were erected, over which were inscribed 'God speed Sir Harry' and 'Gratitude.' As Captain Adams was little known to me I was at first doubtful whether he would find fault with my men cheering. However, the natural respect one has for a gallant old soldier who has fought his country's battles for nearly half a century, added to the feeling that he was a setting sun, conquered every other objection, and with yards manned, and artillery men on the Paddle boxes, we gave him three good English cheers. He was close to the door, and was quite taken by surprise. He made the harbour boat's crew return it, and we gave him a parting one, and well they obeyed the order I gave, to let the Dutchmen hear how an Englishman could cheer. His reception was most gratifying, and the cheering hearty.

April 15th

Dined with Lady Smith, Sir Harry still very unwell, although in the evening I paid him a short visit by request, and he told me he had desired Col. Garvoch to write a letter which he had dictated, and his regret was that he could not, according to his usual custom, write it himself.

April 16th

The number of calls to enquire after Sir Harry, and take leave of Lady Smith, were most numerous, also addresses from all classes. The poor will miss him much and in fact, all the Charitable Institutions, as it has dawned on some of the worthies that General Cathcart has given out he shall live on his rations and drink Cape Smoke, a species of vile Brandy. They are beginning to think Sir Harry was a very excellent Governor.

The aides-de-camp have been consequently very busy all day 'choking off' visitors. In the evening dined there, and packed up a bracelet which Lady Smith has most kindly given me for my wife.

April 17th

Received from Col. Garvoch a most flattering Public letter, expressing Sir Harry's estimation of my services. At 2 pm he embarked amidst the cheers of the multitude, who took the horses out and drew the carriage to the wharf. We manned rigging, and cheered on his passing, and upon my going on board the Gladiator, was quite shocked at finding him so pale and almost fainting; he was compelled to sit by the funnel until he was sufficiently recovered to take the arm of his medical attendant, Dr. Bickersmith - who accompanied him to his cabin, where he had no sooner got than he roared out for me and said 'Where is that D-d Skipper of the Styx, send him down here.'

Upon my going down, he repeated his former promises, and spoke of the Styx in high terms.

April 18th

At six she hove her anchor up, and I took leave of Sir Harry and Lady Smith, and was much surprised and rejoiced at finding Sir Harry's quiet night had so much improved him, for I declare the previous day I considered it doubtful whether he would be spared to reach England.

Lady Smith was much overcome, and cried bitterly. She has been a very warm and kind friend to me, and with the exception of her opposition to Mrs. Campbell going up, which was most unnecessary on her part, we have been on very good terms since my arrival. A room was always provided for me at Westbrook. The last words Sir Harry said, were 'Well, Hall, I will stick to you like glue, and go to the Admiralty and claim your promotion.'

April 19th

10 am A dense fog came on, as eight ladies, principally Cloete, with their relatives in the male line came on board.

April 29th

Received a most handsome letter from Mr. Montagu, relative to my services in Styx, and he has told me he will not forget to see the First Lord about me.

From May to September Styx continued to move military personnel and supplies between Cape Town and the Buffalo River. For the last three months of the year she was at anchor in either Simons Bay or False Bay.

1853

In the closing stages of the Kaffir war the Styx was ordered to Rangoon, where the 2nd Burmese War had just ended following the capture of Pegu. On leaving the Cape, William received a public letter of thanks from the merchants and inhabitants of Cape Town.

Styx sailed from Simons Town on 29th January and arrived at Port Louis, Mauritius, a distance of about 2500 miles, on 19th February. Six days of this passage were made under sail. Having taken on coal Styx sailed from Port Louis on the 23rd and arrived at Trincomalee on the 14th March with only 40 tons of coal left. Four days of this passage were made under sail. After a four day stay in Trincomalee the Styx arrived at Rangoon, about 20 miles up the Irrawaddy, on the 25th March, having covered a distance of about 6000 miles from Simons Town in 50 days at sea.

After a few days visit to Moulmein, a port 100 miles E of Rangoon, the Styx rendezvoused with the Winchester (52-gun ship of the line) and flagship of the East Indies and Far East Station. William's task was to act as an ocean tug. He spent the next week towing his Admiral, Sir Fleetwood Pellew, (son of Lord Exmouth of Algiers fame) to Madras in the light airs of the Bay of Bengal.

MADRAS

Tues. April 12th

Before getting so fast ahead, I must mention how very pleasant the Adml. was during dinner, he is full of anecdotes.

Talking about the Fanshawes, Martins and Stopfords with others who are related in our Service, he remarked on Fanshawe and his wife. The former was for 26 years in charge of Plymouth Dockyard and was a correct good officer, though very strict. He had previously commanded the Namur in Lord Rodney's action, and going down Channel the fleet put in for water at Plymouth. Orders were given that no Officer left the Ships - including the Captain. Old Fanshawe was too strict to break through this order. The Namur was only there a few hours, but during that time Mrs. Fanshawe came off in a most quiet, unostentatious manner in a waterman's boat, and got on board. The fleet sailed, and in due course of time, as she had loved her lord, the fruits of love's labour began to shew itself, much to the astonishment of a large family circle and numerous kind friends who of course began to surmise, for none knew she had been off to the Namur, and they all knew Capt. Fanshawe had not landed. At last, when the time approached, the family were all requested to attend, and she made a public statement to them, assuring them that although the Namur had been in port only for a few hours, during that day she had gone off very secretly, and returned again unnoticed, but matters had now arrived at that stage she was compelled to inform them, that the effect in fact was attributable to this flying visit, and the Capt. of the Namur had done his duty.

Styx spent the next three months visiting ports in India and Ceylon and then in early July, in company with the flagship passed through the Malacca Straits into the South China Sea, having visited Penang and Singapore. Passing along the N coast of Borneo and W side of the Philippines they arrived in Hong Kong on the 1st August.

In 1853 Hong Kong had only been in British hands for eleven years and the numerous islands to the W of the harbour were still occupied by pirates. These pirates had recently murdered the Captain and passengers of the brig Akbar, and Styx with some police on board was sent to investigate and if possible punish the perpetrators of this crime. Between the 10th and 17th Styx destroyed 8 pirate junks and released 6 others which had been captured. They also searched many other junks, finding stolen goods.

On this successful note William returned to Hong Kong and on the 23rd handed over his command to his First Lieutenant, embarked on the P&O Ganges and set sail for England. His journey home took nearly two months. The Ganges took him to Galle in Ceylon where on the 15th September he embarked on the Hindustan bound for Suez. Travelling by train and river steamer he reached Alexandria on the 6th October. Here he joined the Ripon and arrived at Southampton on the 20th October.

On arriving home he met for the first time his 20 month old daughter Meta, who had been born while he was visiting Sir Harry Smith at KingWilliamsTown in February 1852.