5102-G-HMS LORD WARDEN I - Pt 2
JUNE 1871 - MARCH 1872
Sailed out of Malta Harbour with a fine breeze under staysail, on Tuesday last about 5 pm, casting to starboard. Since that up to now, we have had a fair wind, fluctuating in strength, right aft or on the starboard quarter. We were enjoying splendid weather and I did not mind keeping the Middle Watch last night. The sky was lovely. I never saw the Milky Way stand out so well as it did last night; and a gentle breeze, smoking a cigarette and drinking cocoa.
ARRIVE PIRAEUS
19 June – Monday
Arrived here the day before yesterday, about 6 pm. Found the Enterprise a Russian corvette, flying a Rear Admiral’s flag; a small Greek iron clad King George and several small vessels.
The Harbour is not large and has a very narrow entrance, between the two lights, about 100 feet; inside the lights being very shallow. I should not think room for more than a dozen of our big ironclads could be found. There are a moderate amount of small coasting brigs and schooners in. They haul their sterns into the quay. We had to send ashore to get pratique. The town of Piraeus is not large and is situated well.
I went up by train, paying about 8d, 1st class. The country on the way up seems very neglected and not very rich. But I passed acres which might have been cultivated. Passed lots of olive trees.
Arriving at Athens we first bent our steps towards the Temple of Theseus, the most perfect ruin I believe, in existence. I was, I must confess, disappointed on seeing this first ruin in Athens, but I was amply recompensed afterwards; too much so. It looked very chaste and severe. From thence we wended our way up to the immortal Acropolis, and proud feelings which I felt at treading the same path and beholding the same buildings, that the greatest poets, lawgivers and philosophers beheld in their day.
The amount of marble laying about is enormous, and in large blocks which creates a feeling of wonder. How with the ancient appliances, they could raise them to where they did? I passed through all the temples; that of Minerva or Parthenon. It was a sight to raise in a stoics, feelings of grief to see these noble buildings, in ruins and made so by whom? Man.
Man, proud man,
Drest in a little brief authority,
Plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven,
As make the angels weep.
At the foot of the Acropolis, are the remains of an old Roman theatre of large size, and further on the steps, or seats of that of Bacchus are to be seen. Descending from the Acropolis I went up the Areopagus, or Mars Hill, going up by the self-same steps that Saint Paul went up by, to address Ye Men of Athens. The next place visited were the remains of Jupiter Olympus, of which out of 150 columns, only sixteen are standing, thanks to the Turk. Most massive columns and it must have been a grand and imposing structure, close to which Hadrian’s Gate stands.
We next visited the town, the place has a clean and dull appearance. The men are as a rule fine looking fellows, well made. The Albanian costume which is worn a good deal sets their figures off well and looks very picturesque, and I think the women are generally good looking.
20 June – Tuesday
Last night, I went up to 9 o’clock tea at Chevalier Griswald’s, Chargé d’Affaires; arrived after 10. There were a good many legation fellows there, from different legations. Admiral Botakoff, the Russian Admiral was there. He is liked by the people very much, as is Admiral Yelverton. Count Massala, another of Carponi’s brothers-in-law, was very agreeable.
DEPART PIRAEUS
21 June – Wednesday
On our way to Corfu, having left Piraeus last night. All Carponi’s people came to see him off, and as soon as we weighed, we sent up rockets as a signal of farewell to him.
I went up to Athens in the afternoon, and made large purchases of photographs for Uncle George, and got a very good commission for doing so, for the photographer Constantine made me a present of several. I saw the Temple of the Winds and the Agora Gate.
24 June – Saturday
We left the Piraeus, Tuesday evening, Carponi’s friends coming on the water to see us off, and we fired up rockets by way of a farewell.
Next day, we had just got up to Cape Malea, when it came on to blow heavy from the westward, and we ran down under the shelter of Cerigo and anchored off Port Nikolo, a small village of half a dozen houses, and an old Venetian fort, with a few guns. I went ashore and walked round to see if there were any remains of ancient Cythera, or, if the tombs had been excavated. I had a fine roam over the country, and picked up a small piece of marble that had evidently formed part of a column. We saw no remains, but were told the tombs could easily be excavated.
Had a delicious drink of goat’s milk at the village. One rarely gets pure milk on board ship. It was quite a treat drinking it. We only stayed there a day and a night and went off again on our way to Corfu, and yesterday we were beating about off Cape Matapan against a NWester.
ARRIVE CORFU
28 June – Wednesday
The most delightful spot I have been at for some time. We sailed up the Straits between the Island and mainland of Albania on the morning of Monday (26th) and scenery was charming, beautifully green and wooded, (the Corfu side principally). Passing lovely dales and hills covered with the olive trees, towns nestling in the valleys and taken in all, I doubt if I had before seen such a very pretty scene, as I did on coming on deck that morning. It was a perfect morning and having a nice fair breeze, heightened the charms. Around it was very enjoyable.
The straits are not very broad at the entrance, about five miles across. Going up the Strait, the Northern Channel cannot be perceived, owing to the coast line trending across to meet the island, and it is only when at anchor off Corfu, the narrow entrance is seen. The Albanian side is much the most lofty of the two.
On Monday afternoon, I went to see a cricket match played between the fleet (L.Wd), (P.C), (Cal), (Def) and Rapid, (the last contributing 3 out of the 11) against the Corfu eleven (10 Greeks) in which the former were by a long way victorious. The 3 Rapids contributed 88 out of 153, which was not bad.
After staying some time looking at the match, I went on with Nettleton and White, and walked through the King’s grounds, and went over his House, being shown over by an Englishman who looks after it and gets £2 a month for so doing. He told us some amusing anecdotes about the King. Both the King and Queen are much liked here, as elsewhere, but the Corfiotes regret greatly that the island does not belong to England. I expect their pockets have been touched. The Caledonia steamed last night for Malta, Captain Stanhope being very bad with the small-pox.
The Fleet sailed this afternoon from Corfu. Our fellows never left a place with such reluctance.
DEPART CORFU
ARRIVE NAVARINO
30 June – Friday
Arrived at Navarino this morning. Found Trafalgar and Jaseur here, with mails for the fleet. I had the good fortune to receive six letters. We heard also of this ship’s being ordered to pay off at Gibraltar.
I called on the Admiral and asked him to allow me to remain in this ship next commission. He was most agreeable and said he would do anything for me etc. This bay, the scene of the annihilation of a Turkish-Egyptian fleet, is of great size for a harbour, being well sheltered and deep water. The village does not seem of any importance; a broken down fort stands one side of the entrance. Had a tiff with that ill-mannered cur, L---- . He is a very disagreeable fellow.
ARRIVE MALTA
8 July – Saturday
We left Navarino on the evening of the 30th for Malta, to pay off. Steamed down the whole way. Yesterday evening, I attended the funeral of the late Captain Stanhope, who died in the morning from small-pox. His death was much regretted, he being a great favourite with everyone.
DEPART MALTA
11 July – Tuesday
Yesterday, the mail coming in. We had to take the mails down to the fleet which we are to meet of Cerigo. Soon after leaving the Harbour we sighted the Prince Consort which ship was making the best of her way back to Malta
14 July – Friday
For the last few days we have been in company with the fleet, jogging along very slowly, on our way back to Malta. Commander Pringle, Lt Wiseman and Sub Lt Hood have the vacancies. Pringle immediately took charge of the Caledonia, on the Commander of which a Court Martial will be held on arriving in port, for running her ashore off Santorini.
ARRIVE MALTA
18 July – Tuesday
The night before last I dined with the Gilbards. Found my Uncle had had a slight attack of sun-stroke and fever and was very weak indeed. At dinner he nearly fainted. However, he is going on better now.
Today, being my guard, I boarded an Austrian frigate, Arciduco Fredrico, from Furmie (Fiume). The Richmond, US Corvette came in yesterday. The Richmonds are great chums of our fellows, both officers and men, as they lay alongside of each other for two months or more at Marseilles last winter. From what I have seen of them, they are the rowdiest, drunkenest fellows out.
Heard yesterday from my father. Am glad dear Meta is enjoying herself.
21 July – Friday
Yesterday we turned over to the Andaman where I’m comfortably lodged; have a cabin which is something. I may have the pleasure of having a right to one in some few years when grey hairs are appearing on my large and thick-haired head.
Last evening I had tea with Paul of the Lord Warden, and pulled down to the Hospital to see Perry who is convalescent, he having had a bad case of small-pox. We could only talk to him standing at a respectful distance.
Returning about eight, I went out for a walk with White, landing at Spencer’s Monument and walking round the head of the Harbour into Valetta. We had barely got over a mile before we came up to a couple of gentlemen vigorously hauling a light trap along (which I must confess went along slowly) – a horse following in the rear, led by a young gamin.
Seeing the rate at which the trap moved and also the state of the beasts of burden, White most Samaritan like enquired into their misfortune and before five minutes had elapsed, I found myself in the shafts, walking along at a rapid pace, now and then gliding into a trot, the perspiration streaming down. Looking around I saw our two friends with their hands lightly touching the trap and allowing us the honour of being the asses, or rather beasts of burden. One of them informed us he was the Marquis St George. When we got inside the Porta Reale, we found ourselves alone, so we dropped the car and went to the Club and made a hearty supper of buttered eggs, a concoction which White had not before tasted of. I’m bound to say our supper was not spoilt by our walk being spoilt. I fetched on board about 11, and this day have been doing the day duty on board Rapid.
Had a very nice letter from Henry.
26 July – Wednesday
Heard by the last mail of a polypus having been removed from Russell’s ear. I do trust it may prove beneficial to his hearing. Yesterday evening, drove out with my Aunt’s cousin to Verdala taking my Uncle there, he being very weak and pulled down after his late illness and Sir A. Horsford kindly offering him the use of his Verdala residence. It is about 7 miles out and an unshapely building. It has some ground attached to it. From the palace, I saw the prettiest view it has been my lot to see in Malta.
5 August – Saturday
Last Sunday the 30th the Orontes came in. I was in the Barracca Gardens at the time with Mrs G. after evening service at the Barracca.Next day the 31st, the old ship’s company paid off and on the following day, the 1st August, the new crew came round from the Orontes and turned over to the ship. I joined her and reported myself to Capt. Montagu. We all, I mean the officers, messed and lived on board the Hibernia. From what I have seen of the fellows, I shall like them. They are a quiet lot of fellows and I’m glad to say some are inclined to think seriously on subjects, which should be thought so on. The 1st Lieut is so different to the last scoundrel Nettleton – the very opposite to him.
I have been investing in lace etc. to send home by Orontes, so as to make a nice birthday present for my Mother which is on the 25 September. Had lunch a few days ago with Mr & Mrs Barlow. Dined with the G’s. last night.
DEPART MALTA
10 August – Thursday
At sea on the way to Gibraltar to rejoin the fleet. I’m very glad at getting away from Malta, for I find money does not find a resting place with me whilst there.
12 August – Saturday
We have been steaming and sailing along very comfortably. I have shaken down alright and like my new set of messmates very much. They are a great improvement on the last set – no foul, filthy language. Capt. Montagu is very nice too. We passed the Cain Rocks last night, and Galitas today. It was my Middle Watch last night and I had rather an uncomfortable one, as at 1 o’clock a nasty threatening looking cloud, in the form of an immense arch, worked up to windward and caused me some uneasiness. However, after about an hour it broke up, and the wind gradually veered round. Had a talk with Philips, the Carp’s mate, about getting up a Bible class on Sunday afternoons. Found in Murray a Quartermaster, an old shipmate in the Challenger with me. Had all the news from him. I hope to get many letters on arrival at Gibraltar.
16 August – Wednesday
Last Monday, the 14th, was my natal day and I reached the mature age of 21 years. Came of age and into – into what – my debts and nothing more. However, I’m just as happy as if I came into large estates and many mansions, for any man in whatever station of life his is in, has only to take life contentedly and philosophically, to be as happy as any living being. We have been tossing about off the Coast of Algeria for the last few days, foul winds. Now we have a light head wind and are steaming against it easily.
18 August – Friday
Last night being Thursday, the Captain (Montagu), dined with us all in the W.R. and we made a jolly little party. After dinner, as is our custom, we found our way on to the upper deck and gathered round the spit-kid (not romantic) and had many songs; Barber singing the sentimental ones in a high falsetto and Hamilton giving the good hearty ones (some of Dibdin’s) and singing with such a good will, that made the place ring again. Several of the others gave good songs. It was a very sociable gathering as it always is. We sighted the coast of Spain today.
ARRIVE GIBRALTAR
24 August – Thursday
On our way to Plymouth. We arrived at Gibraltar Sunday, the 20th, and found no letters awaiting for us. They had all gone on to Malta, which was very annoying. We went alongside the New Mole and got through the dirty work of coaling and sailed yesterday morning. That ass Strode would not let us stop for the arrival of the Southampton Mail, which was expected the same day. It was very annoying. I hope he gets a good rap over the knuckles for sending us to Plymouth. They might as well have let the old crew bring her home and paid her off in England, saving all the expense of sending them out to Malta in the Orontes. I believe Capt. Strode of Pylades is the quintessence of an old frump.
We have been having very fine weather, fair breezes and expect to reach England in ten days time.
DEPART GIBRALTAR
ARRIVE VIGO
28 August – Monday
Arrived in this morning, having put in to telegraph to Admiralty for a rendezvous, which we shall get tomorrow morning. We have not been able to get pratique in consequence of our Bill of Health not being visaed by the Spanish Consul at Gibraltar, and only by the Portuguese. A plausible tale was told of the former being in the country, when we were ordered off. The man said, “Of course, you’ve no objection to stating that fact in writing”, but fortunately he did not press the matter and said by rights we should be subject to three days observation, but he would telegraph to the Governor of the Province, who happens I believe to be at Madrid, for permission to dispense with that rule, in our case. We have not had an answer yet. I suppose the subject is being made a matter for a Ministerial Consultation. I hope they will soon come to a satisfactory conclusion.
This Bay of Vigo is very large and commodious and pretty, the town being situated on the Southern Bank, the bulk of it on a point of land running out to Northward. It is high up the Bay. The country reminds one of the Eastern side of Corfu, being well wooded, green and the country being dotted with villas, country houses etc, etc. There seems a moderate amount of traffic carried on.
Two Spanish men-of-war are in here, the Numancia which I met before at Bahia when in Esk, and the Villa de Madrid – a fine wooden frigate flagship, another old acquaintance having met her at Rio, when in Narcissus ‘65, she having just come round the Horn from the Chilean War, in a most dilapidated condition.
I have been reading many books lately, getting through the Aeneid slowly. I have taken a great liking to Goldsmith’s Essays. They are very good.
Last night, I kept the nastiest Middle watch it has been my lot to keep for some time – a nasty thick mist, and passing ships etc. It was not pleasant work, as it lasted nearly the whole watch.
ARRIVE LISBON
3 September – Sunday
Came in yesterday evening. Found two ships in here. Prince Umberto, Italian frigate and American Corvette. Wrote to my father today, informing him that I should return to the flagship to winter at Malta, of course subject to his approval. I should very much like to hear from home.
6 September – Wednesday
The fleet came in today, eight ships in all. The two Channel flagships are still in England, the Admirals having resigned command in consequence of the Agincourt business. After staying here two days, we go for a cruise.
I heard today that I stand a very good chance for the next vacancy, but one must take all such promises (given vaguely) with caution and reserve. I myself don’t think I shall get the next. I must try hard for the yacht.
Had a letter from Prickett, who is still at Constantinople, and also one from De Hoghton, both of very old dates.
The Yankees paid us a visit today and seem a decent lot of fellows. One fellow told me that it is the rule for them to telegraph to London and name the place they wish their mails from America to be sent to, so they sent a young clerk ashore, newly entered, who put on a lot of side and spoke with a lisp. He said “Send our mails to Cadif” (Meaning Cadiz), so accordingly their mails were all bundled off to Cardiff in Wales, whilst they were at Cadiz and they did not get letters for three months.
Prince Umberto in here and goes away next Saturday in the Prince Umberto frigate, a training ship for Mids, who work the Mizzen-mast.
9 September – Saturday
Yesterday, was a day to be noted for our fleet being visited by the Crown Prince of Italy and of course numerous salutes went on. We were told to rig in full Dress, but there being so few in the fleet, the order had to be altered to Undress. Prince Umberto visited Lord Warden, Monarch, and Hercules.
In the evening I visited Flagship to spend the evening with White, and had a talk on serious matters with him. Somehow, I did not feel satisfied, I mean satisfied in thinking I could gain help from him.
Today, I had a game of cricket with the L.W.’s, and having walked both in and out, feel tired. We have been coaling all the afternoon. The Italian frigate Prince Umberto went out with Crown Prince. She did not go out very handily going ahead and astern a good deal, before she got round. I saw that the Mids manned Capstan etc.
Heard from White, the particulars of Wilson case. It is a scandal that a parson should come up reeling to read prayers. He has had to go home, leaving the ship. Also, Cramsie (Sub. Lt) tried by Court Martial at Queenstown, dismissed his ship and put at bottom of list.
10 September – Sunday
One of the wettest days, we have had for a long time. It has been raining nearly all day. The King held a levée at the Ajuda Palace, to which the Admiral and all Captains went too and must have enjoyed it, rain pelting down as it was.
Today White and I had arranged a most (interesting) programme for the day’s proceedings, but of course the rain capsized it all and I have vegetated on board and been reading The Book. I do so long to be more earnest and a truer and fuller follower of Our Saviour. I should much like to see a prayer meeting got up on board.
This evening I’ve been writing home etc. and trying to make up an Acrostic, of which I’m heartily sick, on Meta’s name, in revenge for some verses she made on me some time back.
14 September – Thursday
Had a good many back letters today which brought me very good news, principally about my dear grandfather. At any rate, now even it has made a great difference to my Mother and Uncle. Annie also told me of her engagement – I suppose to Mr Hannay. He has got a capital wife. Russie, I’m glad to hear, has at last gone into a Bank and left the telegraphic business.
16 September – Saturday
Yesterday, in the afternoon we were in a continual state of furore, in consequence of His Most Faithful Majesty The King of Portugal coming afloat to visit the Fleet. He first proceeded on board Hercules, and then Monarch, and then to flagship. The fleet manning yards etc; firing salutes. On board the flagship he dined and left there at about 8.00 pm. We all manned yards and fired salutes, burnt long lights at each yard arm. It looked very pretty to see the guns firing, the smoke being seen in the flashes of the guns. The lights burning made the ships appear quite close to. The Prince Consort and ourselves were the best – all the lights appearing at once and extinguished together. It looked most picturesque, the ships illuminated and saluting, whilst the royal Barge proceeded past the ships. A North German gun-boat arrived during the evening.
Had a letter from my father, who gave me the flattering description that I received from Admiral Yelverton, and also told me I should get my promotion in my turn.
DEPART LISBON
21 September – Thursday
Sailing in company with the fleet. Been manoeuvring all the forenoon, under sail; find it is hard work doing so with the watch and we generally do it with the hands. The fleet left Lisbon on the 18th and proceeded to Cascaes Bay, where we met the King in the Estephania, Corvette, saluted him etc. In the evening His Majesty gave a dinner to the Admiral and Captains of Fleet. It was noted for the scantiness of fare and quality of liquors.
We weighed next day and jogged along under sail, and have been doing so since, off Cape Roca. It is hard work for this small ship to cruise with a lot of iron lumps, for she flies ahead of them; the least thing and then it is trim etc, until further notice.
VISIT LISBON
24 September – Sunday
On Thursday evening we left the fleet and went into Lisbon for letters and papers; arrived in late in the evening and anchored off Belem Castle. Next day, Hamilton, Wood and I walked up to the town and going to the Post office, I received a letter from Russie who told me of that Jamie’s proposal in due form to Meta. What a cousin to possess. I expect he thought the magic of £1,500 a year would do it. However, unfortunate Swain, he failed ignominiously. We sailed the same day and met the fleet off Lisbon and delivered letters etc. Today, we go in again, on the same errand.
Sunday Evening
Anchored, found no ships in. After leaving the fleet and rounding round Port St Julian, a signal and pair of pennants went up but we were all like Nelson, one eye shut, t’other blind.
25 September – Monday
Heard today from Captain Fowler and of my Mother, what good the country is doing her, and did my Father.
28 September – Thursday
September 26th Tuesday last. We left the Tagus, in the forenoon, after having received the morning mail, (by which I got two letters, one from my Mother, who was at Crookham End with Robbie and Ella and the other from Annie, who told me all about her engagement to Hannay).
We spoke the fleet in the afternoon and found that they had had very heavy weather indeed on the 25th. Some anxiety was caused by the way one or two of the ironclads went on. The Prince Consort lost two men, killed by the rolling of the ship. She rolled upwards of 43°. Found the Minotaur which Admiral Hornby had joined. (My old ship for so long a time).
29 September – Friday
We left Lagos last night at 10 pm, separating from the Channel Squadron, after a dinner given by Admiral Yelverton to Admiral Hornby. I wished them all a most pleasant dinner, after getting up the anchor about 10 pm and turning in. I was nearly shaken out by the noisy messenger being paid down. However, I got off by 11, and then had the pleasure of keeping the Middle watch.
ARRIVE CADIZ
30 September – Saturday
At which place we arrived this forenoon, first preceding the fleet to see if we could get pratique, which we found was alright, so in came the squadron and anchored off the town. It is a large fine bay open to the Northward and Westward; the town being built on a tongue of land, or, rather an island, which forms one side of the bay.
Read some of Bulwer Lytton’s Essays, which I like pretty well. I shall now close this part of my journal.
1 October – Sunday
Arrived here yesterday, in company with the flagship Lord Warden, Caledonia, and Defence. I went ashore and had a look at the place. The streets are narrow, which I’m not sure is not a good thing – for it gives good shelter from the sun. The houses are built high. Went over the cathedral and had a bird’s eye view of the city, which reminds me very much of Valetta, which it does also from the outside, as well; the sea wall, armed with guns, running round it. The bay is large etc, etc, but altogether, I was disappointed with Cadiz, very little to see. The women are several shades nicer looking than those Lisbonese, for as J.E. said, when the Lisbonese were passing in review before our eyes one Sunday afternoon. “He had seen many better looking monkeys” – and I can quite credit it. Several of our fellows went up to Seville, starting at 5.30 and taking about five hours going up. They were quite delighted with the place.
DEPART CADIZ
ARRIVE TANGIERS
6 October – Friday
From Cadiz, we jogged down to Tangiers, during the night, getting in next morning – the (4th).
That afternoon Bowen, Wood and I went ashore for a stroll – it being a shallow landing we found ourselves feted by burly Moors, and placed on terra-firma. We passed through the gates and wended our way up the principal lane – street, I should say – it was literally alive with men and, what shall I say, vermin. It was altogether a most picturesque and dirty scene, I have seen for some time.
The hovels that did duty for shops were very small, every one sitting on his hams outside, all dressed in the national costume, a long cloak with hoods and those flat Moorish slippers – some of the cloaks had been handed down from generation to generation – at least, I conjectured so. Great clatter and noise going on – and what with the noise and the Jews, (not Jewesses) importuning one to buy at their bazaars – it drove one mad. Rarely a woman showed herself. When she did, she took care to hide her charms. Oh! if she knew, how we longed to see them – but, only the eyes appeared and it ought to have contented us.
After passing through the gate, we came upon a truly Eastern scene – being a market composed principally of camels and these Moor’s asses of course there were, in abundance. It carried ones mind back to those stories one reads and pictures you see of the old Patriarchs. A snake charmer was there, playing with some harmless snakes. Camels, as I said, in abundance. It was curious to see one get down from a standing to a sitting posture – First, kneel on his fore legs, then on his hind legs, squatting on his flanks and then putting his fore legs under him and he was all right.
From the encampment we had a nice little stroll for about half-an-hour, or so, and then went to a bazaar, invested in a few things and came off plus a few fleas. Next morning, we went over to Gibraltar where we are now.
DEPART TANGIER
ARRIVE GIBRALTAR
8 October – Sunday
Went to the Gibraltar Cathedral in company with Stevens; did not care much for the service. The voice reverberates dreadfully, so much so that at times one can hardly understand what is being said. A curtain drawn lengthways across the building, about 10 feet down from the roof, is all that is required. At present I’m suffering from the effects of running feet foremost on to a sea egg yesterday afternoon, whilst bathing and can’t extract the pieces – so it is not pleasant.
11 October – Wednesday
The fleet consisting of the Lord Warden and Caledonia sailed this morning, the former for Malaga, Barcelona and Port Mahon, the latter for Malta. We wait until Saturday and take mails up to flagship, meeting at Port Mahon. Went ashore to-day with Price, after coming off, pulled to Rosia Bay in skiff and had a bathe.
12 October – Thursday
The mail came in this forenoon, and I received a regular budget, two from Henry, one from Russie, and one long one from my Father. Went ashore in the afternoon, heard the band.
Forenoon, we shifted the fore topsail yard, 1st time of doing so, from aloft to let fall 20m. It has gone in the bunt, through keeping the braces fast in sweating the yard up.
The Governor gives theatricals and dancing this evening. Crocodile passed through the straits, to the eastward this morning.
DEPART GIBRALTAR
14 October – Saturday
Left Gibraltar this afternoon under steam. The Pylades under sail for SE coast. Yesterday afternoon, I had to go up to Capt. Phillimore, to play croquet; went up with Hamilton, had a game. Mrs and Miss Ogle and Miss McBean being there. I played the worst of the whole lot and at last failing to get through, the 4th and 5th hoop – I sent off as a [word missing] scattering destruction around.
ARRIVE PORT MAHON
20 October – Friday
Port Mahon – arrived here the day before yesterday, having steamed up the whole way – experiencing light winds, generally dead against us. We passed the Prince-Umberto off Malaga, who signalled to us “A pleasant voyage” – for which we thanked them. All the way up nothing of any interest occurred.
This port, or harbour, is a splendid one – completely landlocked, deep, long, but not broad at any part and lots of little coves, reminding one on a smaller scale of Sydney, New South Wales. The country is barren, comparatively speaking.
I went up to the town, during the afternoon. Larger than I expected and paved with horrible stones, which tire one’s feet immensely.
The town is something like Aci Reale – only not so big – it boasts of a Cathedral, and a very nice organ which has a history attached to it and runs thus – some time back in the year 1814 the good people of Port Mahon ordered a swell organ to be made at Amsterdam. It was made and sent out in a vessel in pieces. An English frigate, which some time previously had been treated very hospitably by the people at Port Mahon, captured the vessel, organ and a bag full of dollars. The Captain of frigate turned the hands up and said “Now my men – we have captured this organ – shall we sell it to the people or make a present of it.” Every manjack voted unanimously for doing the latter, so it was done and the people here in gratitude put G.R. over the organ. It has 143 pipes.
DEPART PORT MAHON
21 October – Saturday
Was towed out this morning by flagship, and as soon as clear of the point we made plain sail, but can’t lay our course. Flagship has gone on to Spezzia.
ARRIVE MALTA
25 October – Wednesday
Came in the day before yesterday, under sail, picking up the troopship’s buoy. Were four days coming down from Port Mahon, doing nearly all of it under sail, the last two days a rattling westerly breeze, at times sending us nine knots.
The Captain would not let me keep one of my Middle watches, which rather annoyed me, as may be easily imagined. Spoke to our first Lt. Laprimandaye, who very kindly offered to speak to Captain about it – Found Caledonia in here, with Growler and Wizard.
The Opera Company this season is not quite so good as the one here last year. The night before last went and heard an old friend Don Pasquale. Found my people still at Sorrento, and expected back next Tuesday.
30 October – Monday
Last night dined with Bowen at Club after attending the Evening Service at Barracca Chapel. Paid a visit to Price at Hospital during the afternoon. This morning we sent down lower yards and topmasts and began to refit thoroughly. The Royal Oak and Euphrates came in today – as also the mail. Received no letters.
4 November – Saturday
Messina mail arrived a short time ago, and I was grievously disappointed at not getting my Spezzia letters, as I had fully expected they would have been forwarded on by the Lord Warden.
I went to Opera a few nights ago, and saw Ruy-Blas, not bad, the prima donna looked very ghastly and unwell but sang however fairly. The night before last Bowen and I dined at Barlow’s - the Secretary to Admiral Key - and met there the Master-Attendant and wife, a Mrs Shaw and her very nice young daughters.
Mrs Waters and Master Attendant’s Wife, made me start perceptibly on first seeing her and I almost believed in Mr Darwin’s theory, of the descent of man – for, really, I never saw such a grotesque and laughable sight, as she presented, with a coil of hair on her head and her seat of honour stuck out á la Grecian bend. This, added to her mincing step, almost proved too much for my gravity.
After dinner I gave a tune, and then afterwards Mrs Waters sang H’up with the boennets of bornnie Dundee – followed by some dance music played by Mrs Barlow and Mrs Shaw. Bowen and I did the dancing – during which I made furious love to the eldest child – she was really a very nice little thing.
Had a letter from James, who told me he had ordered me a £30 gun – which I have refused for good reasons.
10 November – Friday
Have been employing my time playing fives and billiards at canteen, and also at Valetta. Had a budget of letters from Home and heard of Admiral Inglefield’s getting Portsmouth Dockyard. Had letters from several cousins.
16 November – Wednesday
Last Saturday, saw in the papers of my father’s appointment to Plymouth dockyard and of Houston Stewart’s to Portsmouth. Met Admiral Key, who supposed, he said my father would give up his city connections, I said “I thought not.” Heard from my mother also. Had a most pressing letter from the Duns.
Dined with Gilbards. Uncle George still very seedy and pulled down. The Gilbards came back from Naples about a week back.
18 November – Saturday
Been on board all day except during the forenoon, when I was at the fives court, and had a game of billiards, got beaten by four points.
Last night dined with the Gilbards, and afterwards took Mrs Gilbard to the 87th ball, Uncle George being too ill to go. It was a very good ball, at first I was rather bored, as I could get no partners – but, afterwards, I danced nearly all. Danced three times with a Miss Porter who was slightly shocked at finding herself dancing the third dance in rotation with me – however I quieted her scruples.
Had a most interesting letter from my outfitter – who desired to see the colour of my money, an odd request certainly.
The day before yesterday, when at the hospital paying a visit to Price – ran into the Admiral and his daughter. They were both most gracious to me.
22 November – Wednesday
Heard on Monday from my Father, who likes his appointment and from Russie and my dearest Annie, the latter is very happy and deserves to be so, for, I do not know a nicer girl in the Kingdom. Last night, dined with the G-s. The Uncle is still very bad and at dinner was taken very ill, by rheumatism and pains all over. He had to be put into a hot bath and put to bed.
Afterwards I accompanied my gay aunt to the Opera and on arriving there found two of the Miss Paynters and Dr Paynter sitting in box. Well, it was Sappho, rather a nice opera and I anticipated coming away somewhat the wiser, about the music etc., but not a bit of it – We all chatted, laughed, joked, until we must have made our neighbours pretty nigh mad. I know one mighty personage was quite abashed, and slunk out of sight, at seeing such a broad-side of glasses levelled at him. I enjoyed myself however and must go another night to see the Opera.
To-night, after keeping day duty and dining on board, went over and had a chat with the Shaws and played with the girls at cards. Mrs G. and Ethel, passed the ship, paying a visit to Harmony Row.
1 December – Friday
Find I am allowing my Journal to fall dreadfully behind – so I shall have to con over what I have been doing during the last week – to begin with:
Saturday last, went over to the Shaws after dinner, found they were going to the Opera with Comdr Adams of the Daphne. I was asked to go, so I accepted and went with them . It was Ruy-Blas and was pretty good. Mrs Shaw went fast to sleep during the whole performance.
Sunday dined with the Gilbards after going to evening service at the Barracca Chapel.
Tuesday. Rode out with my Aunt to Sliema, heard the band playing and saw the notables of Malta – dined with the G-s. Heard from home – Meta dreadfully insulted at being called by her Christian name, by Tom Triggs.
Wednesday After keeping day duty and dining on board, went with Mrs G. to the Opera – saw Sappho – next night.
Thursday Dined with Capt. and Lady Agneta Montagu – four of us in all, a very pleasant conversation, did not flag in the least. Went to the Opera to see Sappho, with the lady’s brother – by name Yorke. Such have been my little doings during the last few days, with the exception of making calls etc.
The Captain has not been behaving himself at all in proper form lately – and the consequence is a little coolness has sprung up between the W.R.O. and him. The ship is looking most charming, newly painted and cleaned just out of the dockyard hands – and she looks a perfect little yacht.
Have been on deck all day and feel tired so I drop an anchor.
3 December – Sunday
Spent last night with the Shaws, had great fun with the girls. This forenoon the Captain officiated as Chaplain, Lady Agneta being Vice-Chaplain. I came to the conclusion after Service was over, that it was nothing more or less, than playing at Church.
5 December – Tuesday
Last night went to a Club Ball – taking Mrs Gilbard and Mrs Haldane. It was a very pleasant dance, a moderate amount of people being there – very few pretty faces, for they have lost all the charms that a summer’s stay in England had given them and have not picked up that delightfully dissipated look that a girl wears, during the middle and ending of a season. Made Miss Clark’s acquaintance. She is a capital dancer. Miss Y. was there looking like a bird hopping off her perch.
The Jumna outward bound was in, and the Opera was crowded with officers (military). This morning the Malabar homeward bound came in. The Jumna sailed, as did also the Daphne and Wizard. Our worthy Captain had evidently had a restless night – for he was not in the most amiable of moods on coming aboard and let out all round.
I got no letters from home, and was consequently disappointed but I daresay some excuse may be found for them, as they were in the middle of shifting down etc.
Mrs G chose such a very pretty lace parasol cover for me, which I intend sending home to Annie for a wedding and wish I could send something more – Money, what a dreadful thing it is. I find I no sooner take it with one hand, than I hand it over with the other, to some interesting individual – but as I had only two hours and a half sleep last night, I shall cry – hold! enough! and go, turn in.
7 December – Thursday
Yesterday, was a most disagreeable day, blowing and raining. Dined ashore, and went to the Opera for an hour. Saw Linda di Chamounix, then went on with Mrs G to the ball at the Porters. Found the place crammed full of people. It was a very pleasant dance – was quite disgusted with one girl, who was outrageously slangy.
9 December – Saturday
Been on duty all day, and how it is blowing a Gregale. Sent down the Top.glt.yds. with the watch and short time ago placed an anchor watch – the sea beginning to get up and the anchor may be required. A great many small ships, schooners and such like came in during the afternoon – too much for them outside I suppose. Bent sails this morning and considering they were nearly all new, did not make such a bad job of it.
Yesterday, I went round to Sliema in the flag ship’s four oared gig – steering her, did me all the good in the world, as during the preceding night I had vomited no less than five times and was also attacked by diarrhoea and consequently pulled down considerably. Mrs Byles lunched on board to-day with Laprimandaye, Cook and I also lunching Mrs Byles, was much amused with Laprimandaye’s (what a long name) monkey which he got the other day. It is a most amusing monkey, full of tricks etc. She has established quite a funk in our small page [?].
Fair wind this N. Easter for the Malabar which sailed last Thursday morning.
Lunched with Capt. Douglas, Wednesday, and he kindly took charge of Annie’s lace Veil for me. Met on board Gilpin, the Pay Master, an old shipmate of mine – he took some letters for me.
15 December – Friday
Last Monday, paid a visit to the Opera and also on Wednesday night.
Yesterday – Thursday, I rode out with my Aunt, on a horse, just purchased by Uncle George. We rode out to the race-course and it coming on to drizzle slightly. My Aunt was walking her horse up to the Grand Stand for shelter, on an incline, 6 ft perpendicular. As she got to the top, the horse turned broadside on and began backing and over he went and then began a series of plungings, rearings and rollings, that it is a perfect wonder that Mrs G. was not killed, but with the exception of a great fright and a few bruises, she escaped without injury. I never could have believed she would have come off so free from injury.
I was most thankful when I saw her standing up and talking. I had slipped off my horse at once and rushed to the spot and my horse immediately took charge and scampered off – all over the race course and my feelings can be easily imagined at seeing this new purchase kicking his heels all over the place.
Of course, after this accident to my Aunt, our ride was finished, but to jog home slowly, which after my horse was caught, we did.
I came off, shifted and went ashore again dining with the Gilbards, and went to the Opera afterwards to a stall – Linda di Chamounix being the opera. It was most charming – the Prima donna who has a moderately fair voice – acted very nicely and quite fetched me down to the ground. The buffo and baritone were both very good – and I enjoyed myself very much.
17 December – Sunday
Yesterday afternoon went up to the Gilbards, and borrowed their chestnut; could get no one to accompany me for a ride, so rode out by myself round the head of the Grand Harbour and down past the creeks to Bighi, where I called on Eastcott. Walked my horse into his yard behind through the house – and was introduced to Mrs Eastcott, who seems a nice quiet person. They have two very nice little children.
Leaving my horse there, I walked down to the Minters and introduced myself to Dr Minter, who in turn introduced me to his wife and daughter, did not pay a very long visit – and rode back again to Valetta, getting back about five, having been away three hours. Had 5 o’clock tea, came on board to dinner.
Mr Keeble, Scripture Reader, called alongside about 7 o’clock, having most kindly volunteered to show me over the Homes and Institutes in the Three Cities.
First, we went to the new Home in Floriana kept by a Sergeant and his wife and kept in beautifully clean order. The wife being busily engaged in making good wholesome cake for some of the Caledonia’s ship’s coy. It was very good, as she insisted on my tasting it. The Sergeant took us all over the house, and the comfort and pleasantness of everything quite surprised me. The beds looked so nice and clean and the fire in the reading room so comfortable, with all the late papers and the men smoking round the fire. I felt very much inclined to come up and spend an evening there myself. There was an Harmonium in a separate room for anyone that liked to use it. Dinners, breakfasts, lunches etc can be got at most moderate prices. The place did not seem over crowded, which I conclude is from its not being well known.
We then walked into the Valetta Institute, which I shall not describe – it being much the same on principle as the Home – crossing the water, we went to the Institutes, viz: the Bormla one instituted by a Scripture reader – Mr Holmes, who married the Countess of Effingham. It pays worse than either of the other two, but, it is a most comfortable place for the men to go to, much better, a hundred times, than the pot shops.
Bidding Mr Keeble goodnight, on my way off, I dropped into the Shaws, found Dr Shaw much better. Mrs Shaw, his sister, dining at the Keys. Spent a couple of hours there, with the girls and Dr Shaw and bade goodnight on Mrs Shaw’s coming in, about 11 o’clock.
Just after, I had turned in – a Gregale came on very suddenly and it has been blowing ever since, and prevented me from going to the Barracca and dining with the Gilbards. I have never seen such bad weather at Malta before, at any rate keep on so continuously, for, for the last fortnight, it has been raining and blowing with little intermission.
22 December – Friday
Have not been doing very much this week.
Tuesday morning we got up steam and proceeded out of harbour, meeting the boat with mails in, outside. Got our bag, and I was very disappointed at not getting a letter from Home, this making the third mail running, that has not brought me any letters from Home. I don’t know why I have not heard.
Our orders were, to stay out till the 22nd if we liked, using steam only to go round Target and in and out of harbour, with leave to put into Syracuse, for a couple of days, if we could do so, getting a fair wind. However, not having a fair wind, we steamed round to the back of the island, fired our ammunition away and made sail – had a nice breeze to beat against and sailed into Grand Harbour next day – so ended our shooting trip to Syracuse.
After shipping dogs and Kirkness – that night, I went to the Opera with the Gilbards, saw Linda di Chaminoux next day.
Thursday. Uncle George giving me a mount – rode out to Sliema with Laprimandaye to hear the band. Found there a very meagre attendance, and the weather looking very gloomy, we came back, had 5 o’clock tea, he came on board, and I dined ashore.
28 December – Thursday
Christmas is past and over and a very good job too – for on board a ship, jollity always, or nearly always, degenerates into drunken license.
Christmas Eve I had promised to spend with the Shaws, taking them out to Civita Vecchia to hear High Mass in the Cathedral there. After dining with the Gilbards that evening, I went over to the Shaws and at half past nine o’clock, four of us started in a close carriage, Mrs Shaw, two Miss Shaws and myself. It immediately began to pour, but we could afford to laugh at the weather, securely covered and plentifully supplied with rugs, wrap-cloaks, and I know not what.
After an hour and a half’s drive, which passed most pleasantly, we reached Civita Vecchia, getting out at Purvis’s quarters to take tea – he is stationed out here and belongs to the 87th – found a large party here, consisting of Col, Major, and Mrs Stevenson – the Weirs and other people. After resting a short time went out and we crossed over to the Cathedral and listened to the Mass, which began about 11.30. I must confess, I was very disappointed – the music was nothing extraordinary – in fact one could not hear very much, as we had to stand, or sit some way off. When the sermon began we made for Purvis’s and had a very good supper, the same people being there as were before at tea.
After supper, we again went back to Cathedral and whilst there, Kirkness introduced us all to some Canon, I forget his name. He showed us a magnificent framework for a painting, placed in front of an altar, solid silver with great bunches of golden pomegranates and grapes on it – his brother and himself had given it to the Cathedral. The original one having been stolen by the French in 1798.
About 1.30 we started on our homeward voyage and drove into Bormla about 3.15 am.
Christmas Day. Imbibed some chocolate and fetched off to the ship at 4 – turned out at 5 am Christmas Day – it being my day duty – felt rather tired. The Ship was fairly dressed with green stuff. After hearing prayers read by the Captain, we all walked round the lower deck which was very well fitted up with chandeliers, flags, mottoes and what was more to the purpose, plum–pudding and all other sorts of indigestible stuff. Before I came off the deck, I think I had tasted pieces of pudding from about sixteen messes. We then had lunch, which was rather a good one, as we anticipated Lady Agneta, and Mrs Byles lunching with us – but, the weather which had been very rainy and gloomy up till 11 am had frightened them from coming off.
I took a stretch off the land for a couple of hours, leaving the deck in charge of Sir Roger Tichborne an enormous stuffed figure made up by the men – and brought aft by the Quartermaster of the Watch – to do duty. Getting Cook to look out, I made for the shore to eat my Christmas dinner with the Gilbards. Found Capt. and Mrs Haldane there – we had a very good dinner. Ethel was delighted with the fan I gave her. After dinner we sat round the fire and chatted.
Tuesday – (the following day) we shifted ship up to No 4 buoy, the boats of the squadron vainly endeavouring to tow us. We had to warp her up – and it was no light work, there being a good stiff Easterly wind blowing.
In the evening I went to the Shaws and spent it with them.
Wednesday, I dined with the Gilbards, and went to the Engineers. Theatricals with them afterwards – Mrs Gilbard having been asked to act only five days before in consequence of Mrs Hillyard having gone sick.
I went through the green room, and was turned out by Miss Porter and then into the theatre, where I got a capital place. The first piece was called Court Cards and Miss Porter looked and acted so charmingly – spoke in the prettiest way imaginable – she was evidently born with a good talent for acting. Mrs Porter was also very good – as was Col Porter. Mrs Gilbard had to act Maid of Honour and knew her part well and did well considering the short notice given her. It was most kind of her taking a part that did not the least suit her. Miss Porter was applauded vociferously. The extravaganza was also very good. The Happy Man Miss Porter the only lady in it, looked in this piece most charming. Captain Hinde who took Paddy Murphy did it to perfection. The only fault was that the brass band was too much – it made too much noise – but, I enjoyed myself very much indeed.
Thursday night – I dined with the Shaws and went with Dr & Mrs Shaw – the only difference was that Miss Porter looked and acted still prettier.
Today – Friday – I have been making a round of calls. Mrs Verney was very kind and told me to be sure and drop into luncheon any day I liked, so I shall do so. She said, she had seen all our festivities from her house as she looked right down on the vessel – (from Floriana).
This evening managed to lose a game of billiards to Chapman – he regularly walked over the ground. By the bye poor Major Brown’s funeral took place this afternoon, which I attended. Tomorrow my tea party comes off.
31 December – Sunday
The last day of the old year, spent on board the ship entirely, with the exception of taking the Church party to the Lord Clyde. She looks very nice indeed, plenty of room in her. Met Mr and Mrs Byles there.
Yesterday my tea party came off and I think went off successfully. At first I thought it would be a failure as although it was Saturday, everything should have been in order by 4 pm as it usually is but, unfortunately a lot of extra work had to be done, staying topmasts afresh, getting screw up and down.
About four o’clock – Mrs Shaw, Nina and Gertrude Shaw came in a dyco – and I took them down into the Captain’s cabin, sat them down – as I had obtained the use of his cabin.
Well, Miss Jeanie (the monkey) came down one of the skylights and some one casting it off, it came into Mrs S-s lap, and being frightened did what it ought not to have done. Stevens ran off and I, divining what had happened ran on deck, told some one to come down and then asked them into the W.R. at once. It annoyed me most fearfully.
Tea, cake and all the appurtenances were brought in – albums, papers hauled out. Mrs Byles, Mrs Gilbard next came bringing Ethel with them. Brought them into W.R. and there we all had a grand tea-fight. Laprimandaye, Cook, Eastcott, Hamilton, Stevens and myself entertaining our six guests. After chatting, and looking over the cabins – they took their departure – the only unlucky incident being Miss Jeanie’s naughtiness.
In the evening beat Martin at a rubber of billiards at the canteen.
Saw my half yearly report and feel very disgusted at what he put down to “taking me as a Lieut or No”, as I don’t think he has dealt fairly with me by any means.
1872
3 January – Wednesday
Getting into the New Year. The first night went to the Ball at the Palace given by Governor. Went with a batch of fellows from the Mess, and found ourselves much too early, so we occupied ourselves in looking through the corridors which are magnificent – but I shall leave all descriptions of the Palace for another time. About a quarter to ten, the people began to pour in, so, we thought it time to make our bow, which we did, and then wandered off immediately to get partners. Cook, Bowen and I rushed off to the PMO’s and asked them for a dance. The youngest told Bowen it was very early to ask for a dance, but she would give him the first – in fact I think she, what is commonly said, sat on him – and in consequence next day his opinion of her was that she was not perfect.
I engaged myself to the middle one of the three for a waltz, the one I like best of the lot – and soon filled up my card. Miss Ommanney giving me the last on the card, for reasons I know well why. Lady Agneta after a lot of persuasion, gave me a round dance – which however never came off – as she departed this life too soon. The Lovely Vision danced also with me – the first time that I have danced with her since last doing so, at St Elmo, Southsea, four years ago.
The supper was served in the Armoury. I hardly like calling it a supper for it was given on a most economic scale, and I should think Mr Childers must have been Sir Patrick Grant’s guest some time or other, and had been putting him up to a move, or, two. The liquor, of course, I can’t report on except on hearsay and from that I don’t think he desired to win a name for keeping good wines. I came away early about quarter to two.
Next day I went out for a ride on Uncle George’s chestnut and rode round the head of Grand Harbour to Isola – called upon the Shaws and found them just going out. On my return voyage was caught most beautifully in a heavy shower of rain, and got wet through – passed a young lady with a groom, who both looked nice and wet – and then the Ommanneys who were driving and I fancied rather laughed at my miserably wet appearance.
Went on board, shifted and dined with the Gilbards. After dinner on my way off dropped into the Opera and saw the second act of Ruy-Blas. Last night, went to the Opera with Bowen and Aldrich – the opera being – Il Matrimonio Segreto.
15 January – Monday
Been at sail drill all the forenoon.
Last night dined with Hamilton at the Gilbards. Had a very pleasant dinner indeed. The Mail came in during the afternoon – and I had a budget of letters – Meta, Lily, Harriett and Theresa Mann writing me. Meta sent me out sprigs of mistletoe, myrtle and holly as a reminiscence of Christmas. Lunched on board the Growler with Wynyard and Dobbyn to meet the Shaws. Mrs Shaw felt very sea-sick, and was obliged to run away and sit on deck, which rather spoilt the affair – however, the waves would not be commanded.
The Saturday before, Hamilton and I rode round the head of the harbour and paid a visit to the Shaws and Eastcotts – found the latter were out. Hamilton had a fiery little beast, and I had to exchange horses with him. I had no sooner got on him, than he began playing his pranks, kicking, rearing and breaking.
The evening we spent at the Shaws and danced, sang and romped with the girls.
Last Wednesday – the 10th inst. – the Admiral gave his second At Home to which I went. It was most successful, the host and hostess most agreeable and everything very nice. Capital supper – I partook of some iced quail which was delicious.
18 January – Thursday
We had our inspections to-day, which seemed to me a great farce. Anyone could see that the ship had been painted up only a few days previously for the occasion. She looked very well, but, I don’t like her so well as I did the last commission, although there is no doubt, a good many improvements have been effected. The Admiral made a little speech after it was all over – saying all sorts of pretty things, but he said less than he did the last time.
Yesterday was a nice fine day – and the races came off during the afternoon. I was unfortunate enough to lose a lot of gloves – in fact at this minute I was never in a greater muddle than I am at present – no money and lots of debts. In the evening, dined with the Gilbards and went to see the Opera, Il Matrimonio Segreto which was very well performed – Cuiti – Cucchi – Levi – Conti – Proni and Boncore acting.
The Briton came in a few days back.
21 January – Sunday
Thursday last our inspection came off and it went off satisfactorily – though to my mind everything was got up all at once and looked too new.
Yesterday I strolled ashore and looked at the Cricket Match played between the English officer (Garrison and Navy) versus Irish and Scotch – the former went out for over 200 runs, one man Adams making about 120, or 130. In the evening went to see Un Ballo in Maschera, Cuiti acting the page, she looked very nice.
The Mail also came in and I had a letter from Russie and my Father – the latter a most depressing letter – his letter made me feel quite miserable.
The Orontes came in Monday afternoon and I found a great chum of mine on board, Tommy Primrose.
Next day, Tuesday. He boarded the Rapid early with a fellow called Wall and insisted on my immediately showing him over Valetta and its show places. We proceeded ashore, after I had shifted into my plain togs – and after going into several bootmakers shops – we fetched to the Palace and being taken in tow by an attendant, he first took us over the Council Chamber which was hung round with very fine Gobelin tapestry, it having been presented at different times to the Grand Masters. There were also some old marble tables there.
From the Council Chamber, after traversing long corridors, paved with marble of different colours, and lined with suits of armour, we came to the armoury, a very fine long room and stowed as full of armour as it possibly could be. There were many curious old things to be seen – there was one gigantic suit of armour – some of swords secured long and unwieldy, but on handling found them beautifully balanced and easily handled. Primrose and I had the audacity to seat ourselves in the late Grand Master’s coach, in which Buonaparte also had ridden, when he paid his visit here.
After doing the Palace – we proceeded to Marich’s, had a game of billiards with Tommy, beat him by two points, and then we all had lunch – after which, and the better to digest, we rode, and went out to Sliema to hear the band there. I spoke to the Ommanneys and Paynters, I had a beast of a horse.
24 January – Wednesday
Tommy Primrose dined with me and in the evening, went to the Gilbards’ box at the opera. Saw Othello which I thought very tame and lacked spirit – had the pleasure of meeting Capt. and Mrs Crawford there – paid a visit to several boxes.
25 January – Thursday
Borrowed Uncle George’s chestnut and rode out with Primrose, Carpenter and Wall towards Civita Vecchia. Wall found his horse going lame – so I advised him to gallop back, as we were only in Floriana and then, after changing his horse, gallop after us. He followed the first part of my advice, but as we did not see anything more of him that day, I can’t say if he did the last part. We went out slowly and got out there about 3 o’clock or a little later. Went over the Cathedral, where they were having prayers. It looked very nice, the sides being hung round with a sort of cloth, rich red. Next we went down into St Paul’s Cave, where they said he lived three months – and next we went into the catacombs and followed the leader for ten minutes. They are not to be compared to those at Naples. After a lot of haggling about the money to be paid to the fellows, we got off and rode back pretty smartly.
Bidding goodbye to my companions – I trotted to the stables, returned Tommy (the Chestnut) – had tea with Mrs Gilbard, who then sang the Storm, Island girls I leave, and airs from several of the Operas – one from Un Ballo in Maschera – the one the page sings.
Dining there, I made for the ship and after getting on board Thursday evening, went to the Key’s Ball. It was dreadfully crowded – Met a good many people I knew, left early, about 1 o’clock, feeling very tired. There was a capital supper.
27 January – Saturday
My duty day and the order for my discharge to flagship came on board. I asked Montagu if he had said anything to the Admiral about my going – he said – “I told him, I was sorry you were going etc” – but that the Admiral said – “I only lent him for 4 months and he has now been 10 months, so it is but fair, he should give some one else a chance” and in consequence Basil Napier and I are going to change.
28 January – Sunday
Dined with the Gilbards, meeting Captain Perry there after attending the Barracca Chapel.
A miserably wet day, raining as steadily as it possibly could. About 3 o’clock I got my traps together and turned over to the Flagship – and soon shook down into my place. It is a great come down, after keeping a Lieut watch doing his duty and living in a W.R, to do a Midshipman’s duty and come down to G.R. (Gunroom) fare. A general Mess spoils one for a G.R. life again.
30 January – Tuesday
Went ashore early in the afternoon and went up to the G.A. after calling with my Aunt on Mrs Byles. Borrowed the chestnut horse, Tommy, and rode by myself round to the Minters, paid them a visit and had tea there chatting there for about an hour, then rode back at a smart pace, it being late.
Dined ashore and then after dinner took myself off to the Opera to see Il Barbiere de Seville taking myself up amongst the gods. It was great fun – the Smythes regularly shrieking with laughter and making the most dreadful row. Two of the PMO’s spotted me, which rather annoyed me. The opera was very good. After the Opera I betook myself to the Club – met Phipps and Crozier, had a long yarn with them, and dine with them to-night – Wednesday 31st.
2 February – Friday
Yesterday afternoon the Lord Clyde gave a dance from 2–6 pm. Three or four of us went about 2.30 and found only half-a-dozen ladies present. However we began dancing. About 3 o’clock the people began flocking in and at last the place was quite full. Every thing was very nice, except the deck, the principal part of the performance. It was damp and quite sticky and one soon got tired of dancing – as your feet began to stick to the deck. Two ladies lost the heels off their shoes, but I believe they were eventually found and nailed on again by the ship’s bootmaker, who I doubt ever having handled such a delicate thing before as a lady’s shoe. The PMO’s were in great force and I’m beginning to like the middle one. The ladies dresses as a rule were short, and lot of the leg was shewn, which several of my partners drew my attention to.
4 February – Sunday
Took the Roman Catholics to Chapel. They go in at 10 o’c. and come out at 11 o’c.
Yesterday, I was busy helping to write invitations for our dance Thursday next and went ashore with White to see about their all being sent. We have asked between 3 and 400 to come off – so it is to be hoped it will be a fine day for it. It is rather unfortunate that there should be a Club soirée the evening before.
8 February – Thursday
Tuesday last. Paid a visit to the Exhibition of Pictures at Admiral Yelverton’s house. There were not many exhibitors, but what there were, were very good. Practised all the afternoon on the piano.
Wednesday – Went ashore and made numerous calls and also practice on the piano. In the evening went to the Opera, saw Traviata.
Thursday – Very tired, with a bad neck – our dance came off this afternoon and was most successful, everything went off very well. Refreshments, decorations and other necessaries, all being looked after by different fellows.
The Refreshments were very good – we had of them a superabundance, for I find not much is eaten at an afternoon dance – for the good people have either just finished their luncheon and are alike bladders blown out – impossible to be blown out further, or are afraid of spoiling their dinners.
About 400 people were asked and at about 3 o’c. they began honouring us with their presence and boat loads after boat loads flocked alongside. I had a piece of blue ribbon on, the badge of office – and did my duty well (self praise is no recommendation). A good many of the other stewards were so struck with some of the young ladies they took aft, that they did not leave them with that promptitude and zeal for duty, they should have done.
The old dowagers were the people that annoyed me, for I asked nearly all of those I met at the gangway, if they would not like to sit on the poop and survey the merry throng dancing on the quarterdeck – backing up my invitation, by all sorts of cunningly devised inducements. But for some reason or other, whether to get in the way – which I don’t believe; or to look after their daughters better, for the girls here are great flirts – which, I do believe; they would persist in remaining down below.
The deck under Le Strange’s superintendence was capital – such a contrast to the Lord Clyde’s (comparisons are odious so I hold). We had green stuff everywhere – garlands hung round the quarterdeck both sides and numerous flower pots all over the deck, where they would not be in the way. The awning being spread and tastefully covered with foreign ensigns, under the Commander’s and White’s directions.
About 350 came off, but we did not find the place inconveniently crowded. I danced once and showed a girl over the place below and otherwise was busy running about looking after people. Mrs Ommanney asked me to a child’s tea fight tomorrow, but my neck will prevent my going, as I have a regular large boil.
10 February – Saturday
Yesterday, heard from my mother, such a kind letter.
In the evening, as I had a ticket sent off to me for the Opera – I took advantage of it and went – especially as our new tenor Harvey was to come out in Favorita and although my boil was by no means pleasant – I went off and found myself placed next Mrs Lewin, a dear old cup of tea, to whom I lent my book, and she never returned it. Harvey sang very well and prettily, but his voice was not nearly strong enough and his acting was nothing. The House was crammed full, lots of ladies in the stalls.
My unfortunate neck began paining me dreadfully, so that I could hardly turn my head. Mrs L. noticed it and after my telling her what was the matter – she immediately began a long and horribly sickening discourse on cutting, poulticing etc, which nearly sent me off my chump. The opera was very nicely put on – the scenery well painted.
11 February – Sunday
Feel much better to-day, as I let the doctor slaughter me last night in the most cruel fashion. Saw the Gilbards pass by in one the Caledonia’s cutters. Heard of the promotion, which leaves a place in the Helicon vacant.
16 February – Friday
The day before yesterday, Stopford and I rode round to St Marguerite Lines and looked at a review being held by Gen. Sir F. Seymour – of four out of the six regiments here. There were several ladies out there – and they did the usual movements skirmishing etc.
Stopford’s horse wanted to fight a mule there and began rearing and kicking, to the discomfort of two companies of soldiers who were marching along the road in single file. He had the honour of stopping two companies unaided by any-one else, bar the quadruped. We next paid Mrs Eastcott a visit and imbibed bohea. Last night, dined with the Gilbards, having played on the piano all the afternoon and paid Mrs Byles a long visit.
18 February – Sunday
Heard, a few days back, about Lord Mayo being assassinated by a convict in the Andaman Islands – who said he was inspired by God to do it. It is a very sad affair. The Antelope, if she is ready will go to Suez to fetch Lady Mayo.
Last night spent the evening at the Shaw’s. Sang a little and then played bezique. Had a letter from James asking me to accept the gun which, I had refused – so I told him I would take it.
Am very glad to see such a batch of promotions come out – and also the new Order in Council about promotion, and Sub-Lieuts to retire after 3 years and must retire when arrived at the age of 40. I suppose old Goschen had a fit of facetiousness on him, when he put in the last order.
19 February – Monday
Last night after attending evening session at the Barracca Chapel, dined with the Gilbards, Major and Mrs Russell (of 13 Huss.) and Capt. Buchanan dining there also. We had a capital dinner and it passed over very pleasantly – smoked in the drawing room until after 12 o’c.
All this afternoon I was going about in the barge, taking the Admiral, Prince and Princess Bourbon about, and did not get back till 6 o’c.
21 February – Wednesday
Had a practice on the piano in the afternoon – and then accompanied Mrs G to do a little shopping. Spent the evening on board, doing French – as it is my determination to acquire the thorough knowledge of that language. My old instructor M. Bucci being sick, has been unable to give me lessons, so I have been at a disadvantage as yet in not having anyone to air my French on.
This afternoon was sent away in the 2nd Launch with boys and Ord. seamen, to practise them in boat sailing.
There has been nothing but tinkering and hammering going on all day. For hardly had the noise made by the turn-tables, made a start for departure, than it was discovered that the slide, carriage and gun, being raised, consequent on the deck being raised for the turntable fittings, that the four ports also required altering, as the gun could not be elevated and they have to cut the ports, making them higher. This will cause no little expense and trouble and also no little noise.
So back comes row with redoubled fury.
23 February – Friday
Yesterday forenoon, went out sailing in the Launch, outside the harbour and had great fun, making the Ord seamen and boys heave her to. In the afternoon, with White I went ashore and had tea with Mrs Gilbard. Ethel favoured us with a couple of songs. It rained nearly all afternoon.
As we came down found we had missed the Mess boat, and seeing the cutter coming in, we waited for her, and had the pleasure of helping a lot of ladies through the mire into their carriages. Dacres had been giving a luncheon party and report says Miss K was kissed by someone.
Heard this forenoon from my Mother, who told me Uncle George Hookey had gone mad and was going to be put into an asylum. It will be dreadful for poor Harriett and the rest of the family. I hardly know what they will do, it will occasion more expense to my family. They tell me that my Grandparents go up to London again, not liking West Country, the rainy weather not agreeing with them.
My Father has had to go on the half credit system – which means paying half the premium and interest of 5 per cent on the other half for 7 years and then all arrears must be paid up.
Major and Mrs Russell went off today – heard rather a good yarn from the former it ran thus – Breakfast at a country house, well filled with people. The daughter of the hostess (aged 19), when a dead silence occurred, sitting at the further end of the table from her mother, said “Mama, can you tell me what Colonel Hamley meant last night when he met me on the stairs, blew out my candle and then kissed me”? – As may be imagined Col Hamley beat a rapid retreat from the house, as soon as possible – being utterly put to the rant by this girl and very plucky of her it was too. I should think Col Hamley did not try the same thing again for some little time.
The Admiral coming on board this afternoon I took the opportunity of giving him Col Mann’s photograph and showing him Theresa Mann’s. He was much pleased and we had a chat together about going to a small ship. I told him I had no desire to leave the flagship.
24 February – Saturday
The Helicon sailed this evening with Admiral Yelverton and Miss B – so she hoisted his flag and we having struck it, hoisted Admiral Key’s at the Mizzen.
I see Captain Jink’s name has again appeared in the papers.
25 February – Sunday
Spent the day on board, my boils still hanging about my neck. They are like the Gorgons’ head, cutting it off, another appeared, drive my boil away, back another comes – so, then I’m unable to go either to the Barracca, or to the Gilbards.
27 February – Tuesday
Troubled with the plague yet, yesterday more painful than ever. Last night could get no sleep, and paced the deck. Very fortunately Wood come off late about 12.30 and he kindly lanced it for me, which eased me of the pain very much.
Was unable to take my French lesson, so wrote to M. Bucci telling him I was unwell, a concoction of which, raised my pride in myself as a French scholar up at least half a dozen rungs of the ladder. He wrote me back and like most foreigners writes very badly.
We struck lower yards and topmasts last night.
Yesterday morning read Harriett’s and Fanny’s sad letters, about their Father. It is a very sad business altogether and what my cousins will do I don’t know. I wrote Harriett a few words of condolence and sympathy. If they can get a curate to do duty, they may save some of the living – though, whether he will be allowed to do duty for a clergyman that is in an asylum – is very doubtful.
29 February LEAP YEAR – Thursday
Had my first French lesson in French last night from M. Bucci – after which I proceeded to Manich’s, meeting Markham there. We then went to the Opera, up amongst “Ye Gods” – Linda di Chamounix being the Opera – Mr Sylvester singing a song called Come into the garden Maud – he has a fine voice, but mouths his words tremendously, singing as if he had a potato in his mouth. I led off several encores, but I don’t think I shall favour the gallery with my presence again.
This forenoon took the 2nd Launch out sailing, but, as there was little wind and a good deal of sea, I remained in Bighi Bay, beating about, picking up breakers etc. etc. The Dryad and Jumna have both sailed, it being fine weather – which is very fortunate for the Lord Clydes as their dance comes off this afternoon to which I am unable to go, as my neck is not well yet, and I keep poultices on.
1 March – Friday
Manning and arming boats kept me pretty well employed all the forenoon. It was rather a sight in its way – between 30 and 40 boats – 11 with guns and 8 with rockets. Outside the harbour we fired blank cartridge rockets, the latter looked on being fired off making such a fine curve and then twisting.
On arriving aboard – found a letter from my charming sister Meta, which was a great treat, as I get so few from her. She told me my Father had adopted Bella, one of Mr Hookey’s children.
Saturday. Stayed in the house all the afternoon.
4 March – Monday
Yesterday took the Roman Catholics to Chapel. Stayed on board during the afternoon, listening to Mlle. Cuiti and Harvey singing, they having lunched in the W.R. with Le Strange, who seems quite to have gone mad about these singers.
In the evening went to the Barracca, with White and Prothero. After the service dined at the Gilbards meeting Capt. Salmon there. Heard more about the Hookeys. The Gilbards expressed their sorrow at being at Malta, and unable to help them, but when I see pounds worth of lace bought, I find myself asking whether they have tried to do anything.
Capt. Salmon told some capital yarns about Arkwright. One was – he was talking to Mrs B. and said “th-th-th- the cho-cho-ens are always raising your – r – etc. expectations and disappointing them” – Mrs B. – said “How”? He said (stuttering) “Because they always seem as if they were going to have children and never do” – “Oh!” said Mrs B. – “you naughty man – Fie” – he replied – “I assure, I did not do it.”
And another was – Being asked to dinner by the Governor’s Military Secretary who gave much better dinners than the Governor – Arkwright was asked where he was going to dine – He said “Oh! in the servants hall” – meaning it as a satire on the Governor’s dinner. Mrs W. heard of it afterwards, so one night – when she met him again at an evening party – she tried to cut him, but he came and sat down beside her – so she turned round towards him and yawned right in his face. He laughed and said “Hah! Ha! Ha! Capital – two hind ones stopped with gold, like mine.”
5 March – Tuesday
Heard from Russie, who told me the particulars about the Hookeys. It comes very hard on my Father – and I must say I think some of my other relatives might come forward and help a little. Mr Hookey, as far as I can make out, is a thorough scoundrel and deserves to be flogged, refusing to do service – and then made to get a curate. He will not help his fine children – or give them a farthing. So my father will have to help them all and in fact provide for them; besides having adopted one outright, so now instead of four sisters, I have five. I wish the G-s would help, I should think they could easily, if they liked to deny themselves a very few luxuries.
7 March – Thursday
Today we had a visit from no less a personage than General Sherman and President Grant’s son – who is in the 4th Cavalry – and his suite. Went all over the ship, at which they were very pleased – especially the guns and engine room. Gen. Sherman is tall and wiry looking, wearing a grizzly beard, cut short. Grant a heavy looking fellow about five and twenty – who seemed a great boor. Told me he disliked all music excepting nigger minstrelsy.
9 March – Saturday
Lunched with the Gilbards – and after lunch went with Mrs G. and Ethel to make a call on Mrs Mann. Found her at home – and like her very much. She kindly told me she would be very delighted to see me at any time that I came next.
After going to the Church and leaving Mrs G. there I took Ethel about and then called for Mrs G. and proceeded in company with her to Mrs Payton. Whilst there Mrs Rich, Mrs Goodenough and Miss Randolph came in, and for about ten minutes, I had a very pleasant chat with the latter. Then making a departure with Miss Payton in Coy, we cruised about the town. After a short time I parted company and came on board to dig at French and suffer pain from my boils. They are like the Campbell’s coming – I suppose one of them will soon be coming. Wrote to Russie.
11 March – Monday
For the last five or six days, it has been blowing, continuously from the SE and E, varying between the two – raising quite a sea outside and a swell inside – ships rolling from 3–5 deg. The air has been filled with minute particles of red sand giving one the idea that a fog was hanging round. The sand remained on our rigging and spars, at places, looking quite brickish red – and when the rain descended as it did once, or twice, it actually appeared as if it was raining mud. The weather was most oppressive and did not make one feel up to much work. We had some heavy drill, shifting Topsail yds. and jib boom – beating the other ships out and out.
A good many steamers went out today, the harbour is quite full – as many as fourteen having entered yesterday.
Last night, after attending the Barracca Chapel, went to dinner with the Gilbards meeting Capt. Salmon and Ward there – the latter seems very yankified and rather behind the age in some ways. I can’t say I took a fancy to him, by any means.
Hear from Meta today.
16 March – Saturday
The day before yesterday we had a large party of ladies off to see some torpedo experiments by Kane and Wilson. The Governor and his lady going off to a lighter moored in mid stream. I went in a skiff with one of the Lieuts, and we pulled round the place, getting in everybody’s way. They were not so successful as they were expected to be – for, they went off at the wrong time.
After witnessing the experiment I landed, leaving my skiff at Custom House, paid a visit to Mrs Byles, found Mrs G. and Mrs Downes there – who had such naughty secrets to tell each other, that I was requested to walk onto the balcony, whilst they were being disclosed.
Dined with the Gilbards that evening, first paying a visit to the Shaws – and made arrangements for taking my Aunt off to the Jumna Saturday – being today.
DEPART MALTA
19 March – Tuesday
Friday last, just as the men had their dinner hour, a signal was made from the Palace to us – to get up steam full speed and prepare for sea. Immediately everything was bustle and carpenters going to the Parlatorio to bring off crutches for boom boats, gear etc. that had been landed. One party away getting provisions (for as it so happened, we had just run short, and were going to send demands in); another party getting steam pinnace off and dockyard gear in the way of blocks, straps etc.
The cause of all this being, that Dundas a Lieut of the Lord Clyde had just arrived in a merchant steamer, reporting the stranding of the Lord Clyde off the NW coast of Pantelleria, whither she had gone to assist a steamer that had run ashore.
Well, after boats were hoisted in, and the Captain had got his orders from Adm. Key, (who proceeded in the Enchantress as hard as he could go) – the Research also going from between the Jumna,which was at the Troopship’s and the shore. Admiral Wodehouse saying it was the finest thing he had seen for a long time.
We went along from 8–10 knots, making sail in the First watch, and considering I did not know a single station, everything went off most creditably.
Saturday forenoon Pantelleria hove in sight and about 10 30 am we saw the Lord Clyde on shore – about 200 yards off a point close to the town of Pantelleria; the merchant steamer being on shore about half a mile further on. We shortened sail, and dropped an anchor SE. of the Lord Clyde, her head being about NW, and veered away to 13 shackles, bringing our stern to within 200 feet of hers. We found that she had landed some tons of stores and provisions already and was busy shoving her coals overboard and getting her guns ready for hoisting out. There was a rumour of throwing them over-board, as no Research with lighter had yet made her appearance.
That afternoon two Bower cables were passed from stern to stern being hove in by the hemp stream – and joined by a slip to some length of our sheet, which were passed on the bight, through the after chain pipes (across the Lower Deck) and then each end taken round the bight and then joined to Bower by the slip, aforementioned.
The Captain said to Adm. Key – “I will get her off in an hour”, but events shewed otherwise. Everything being in readiness, we manned the Capstan well, hove in and went ahead; varying from slow speed to full speed. The L-C appeared quite lively, rolling, but we only slewed her 3 points or so.
The wind having been all day from the SE. blowing fresh – 3 to 4, went down in the evening. During the night, the Research arrived, with the lighter which the L-C got alongside, and the L-C being very lively during the night, we had one more tug, for half-an-hour, 9 30 to 10, but did not move her. Capt. Bythesea came on board, during the Middle Watch. He is to be pitied.
Next day sent a working party of 200 men to L-Clyde to get guns out, heave coals out, etc. – and kept our men employed rigging derricks for hoisting in her guns. The wind this day (Sunday) came from the NW right on our beams and raised quite a swell. The divers went down and reported that she would have to be hauled straight astern – and that her rudder port was gone – and her rudder lying at the bottom – keel all gone. She must be well shaken, for our officers who went on board declared the lower deck could be seen to rise upwards in the middle and the boilers jumped six inches – etc.
Sunday afternoon we made another try having previously laid out stream anchor with hemp sheet attached, on starboard bow (Shorewards) and hauled ourselves a little more in line with her. Went ahead full power and moved the L-C 20 yards. Shortened in on our S.B. and went ahead again, floating the Lord Clyde, weighed and proceeded ahead – but the L-C not slipping her BB. Our starboard towing chain parted and the port one, of course, slipped (being on the bight) splitting the controller in two, on its way out. Very providentially for the L-C our port towing chain caught a rock at the bottom and this with her S.B. which she let go at once kept the L-C from swinging in on the rocks – she remaining broadside on to the wind and sea.
Captain Brandreth without losing a moment steamed round to the L-C’s bow – let go an anchor, veered and took in her starboard sheet as a towing chain – and then after getting our boats in and up – we shortened in, the L-C slipping her BB and weighing her SSW – thus hauling the L-C bow off slowly – her stern being held as beforementioned.
At about 9 00 pm we started leaving the Research behind to pick up anchors, cables, rudder etc and to look after the L-C steam launch, guns, provisions etc.
The Enchantress went back to Malta full speed – Adm. Key hoisting his flag aboard of us. An Italian man of war came in, just as we had got her off, and offered assistance. The wind was from the NE and on our beams, during the night, the Lord Clyde towing on our port quarters in the most wonderful manner – keeping the same position.
Next day Monday – the wind went down, and the L-C began executing the most wonderful evolutions at times towing broadside on, and then flying from one quarter to the other, causing us no little trouble. Very often we had to stop and go astern – to relieve the strain on towing chain, and even then it would grind and tauten out, making one think it would snap every minute. I could not have believed a cable (ours being 2¼ in) could stand the shocks it got.
All the night the same thing was going on, Capt. B never having gone off deck, but temporarily, since having started. The way the L-C behaved was most remarkable. It shows how utterly helpless our ships of war are, with the loss of their rudder. Fore and aft sail was no good, their temporary rudder neither being of any good.
During the night we had veered away on our sheet to the clinch 11 shackles – and she had about same out – so, there was a good scope between the two ships. The wind coming again on the beam, she steered steadily until she got to the harbour mouth when the Hearty was clapped on her port side and although the L-C tried to make a dash now and then at some peaceful steamer, her attempt was always frustrated by Hearty – and at last we both secured to buoys, after some hard work.
Capt. Brandreth, the evening before (Sunday at Stand By Hks)) sounded Still and said “Good days work – very well done.”
Have just heard of the sad accident that happened to the Ariadne’s boat’s crew – it is most sad.
Heard from my Father, Meta and Lily.
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