MARCH - OCT 1872
24 March – Sunday
Wednesday last and also Thursday still saw me in the list, with huge poultices on most of the time.
Friday – I left the list, that I had been clinging to, most unwillingly, for such a time – and it is to be hoped it is left for ever.
Last night dined at the club with my Uncle – interchanged home news. About 9 o’c. went over to the Shaws and spent the remainder of the evening with them. Came off about 11 o’c. and kept watch until 4 – went with the Roman Catholics this forenoon, and this evening after dinner – went with White and Prothero and to the Barracca Chapel.
27 March – Wednesday
Landed this forenoon with the Army and in marching up, managed in the most careful way to put the whole line out of step, some few times.
Yesterday afternoon paid a visit to the Somerset Dock, where the Lord Clyde is at present and likely to remain for some months longer. I don’t know what the good people of Malta would have done unless they had been provided with something for them to spend their curiosity and energies in looking at, for it being Lent, nothing is going on. When I arrived there, I found a girl’s school walking round the deck, a Sub-Lieut in charge of damsels.
The ship’s stern, having no support, had to be well propped up with shores, showing like a forest – her keel all being gone. They had to place blocks, right along both sides of her bilges. There was very little of her keel left at all – and what was left was forward by the stern. The deadwood aft was more than half gone and her stern post entirely gone – and the bottom part of her body part. Her bilges all showed signs of being chewed up by the rocks and at places, her wooden sheathing, about 8 or 9 in. thick, was quite gone and her frame-work exposed. She leaked at times 3–4 tons a minute. It is said she will take three months to patch her temporarily for sending home to England.
The Wizard came in the day before yesterday. She had been blown away from Pantelleria, leaving an anchor and 50 fms of cable behind. The Defence had lost an anchor and some cable. The Ariadne had got the rudder into deep water and in 15 or 16 fms, the slings carried away, so there is an end to that. I hear the guns went down with the lighter, in harbour.
31 March – Sunday
Thursday last, Prothero and I started for a good walk. Leaving Calcarra Gate at 2 o’c, we struck out from Floriana, taking the road to Malias, the ‘miserables’ bothering us nearly all the way. I never met so many beggars in all my life, such healthy looking beggars too. We found out a capital plan of dodging a ‘miserable’, who came up to us in the road – walking together and towards the ‘miserable’. As soon as he began his whining petition, we suddenly parted asunder and walked one each side, utterly disconcerting the unfortunate, as before he could make up his mind who to ask, we had flown by.
I got some capital ginger beer at Malias. After remaining there about half an hour, we made a detour round the country going close to Civita Vecchia and reaching the ship by 6 o’c.
Good Friday – I dined with Uncle George at the club.
Saturday, the mails came in, and I got a charming photograph of darling Meta – with a letter. Pulled about in a skiff all the afternoon and paid a visit to the Antelope and Vulture, Thos de Hoghton being 1st and only Lieut of her. He is an awfully zealous fellow and fond of work. The ship (Vulture) was looking very nice. Spent the evening at the Shaws.
The Ariadne, Rapid and Defence came in, so we have quite a large fleet here.
Sunday – Took the Roman Catholics ashore and met Willoughby who told me all the late news.
2 April – Tuesday
Dined on board the Ariadne with Willoughby. Their berth is much smaller than ours and not so light. After dinner, Price having joined us, we all went to the Opera and saw Rigoletto, acted.
6 April – Saturday
Last night dined with Jimmy Haye aboard the Ariadne. All this forenoon have been attending the police court, as one of our men got locked up in quod.
11 April – Thursday
Yesterday’s court martial jammed my namesake up into a clinch, dismissing him the service. He is not particularly lively over it, and he has good cause for not being – for with his debts, and no money and little energy, with a great fondness for liquor – I hardly know what he will do. We are getting up in the Mess a small subscription to pay his passage, and mess home for him. It is very sad, and has all been brought on by that cursed drink.
Saturday evening last, I spent with the Shaws. Gertrude is unwell – I rather fancy old Shaw had something to do with her illness.
Tuesday – dined with my cousin Blankley on board the Hibernia and spent a quiet evening.
14 April – Sunday
Friday last went off to the Mail steamer with Uncle George – arranged about his passage, and then we went over to the pontoon that had been launched during the week.
It was built in compartments and the dock (for it is a floating dock) floated about a foot and a half, to two feet, in the water – about 7 feet out of water. It is 340 feet long and about 80 wide. This dock goes between large iron upright girders and when a ship is to be docked the dock is sunk by means of valves in the bottom; one valve filling six compartments. The dock is sunk 30 feet, or to the required depth and the ship is floated in over the sunken dock and between the uprights. The dock is then raised by means of hydraulic power – the beams being placed across the bottom of the dock. The ship takes the centre of the dock and wedges are thrust in under the bilges and ship thus rests on its keel and bilges.
After dining at the Club and smoking a cigar, we went off to the Mail where I wished my Uncle good-bye, with all sorts of kind messages to my Aunt and cousin.
Next morning – Went on board the Malabar. Saw Gilpin and Capt. Douglas and said goodbye to my namesake who is dreadfully cut up – and is also very hard up. One of 12–10 being girls and the father not well off is no joke. We had to help him home – poor fellow.
Heard from my Mother and Meta and a French letter from Russie. Last night, spent at the Shaws. Hamilton coming too. We danced and enjoyed ourselves very much. This evening, attended the Barracca Chapel.
21 April – Sunday
This last week, has been a lazy week, nothing going on, but rifle matches, regattas etc.
Thursday – I went out to the range – and saw the officers shoot and the prizes given away. Byles won the match.
Friday – all the forenoon employed rigging stages for the regatta which came off Friday and Saturday afternoon.
Friday was a splendid afternoon, a clear cool day, wind from the South-West perhaps a trifle too strong for the light boats. The first race was the launches. I went in my launch, the 2nd launch, and steered her, for my coxswain went quite mad with excitement and let the helm look out for itself, which I seeing made for, and stuck to it through the race. We won the 2nd prize.
The men must have been pretty well done up. They started from abreast Magazine Point, down between the Agincourt (moored head and stern) and Valetta, round the fairway buoy and back between the Agincourt and fleet. Then came cutter, gig, dinghy, pinnace and all other races to the number of 20. Our officers winning the officers’ race and copper punt winning the punt race. We had a fair amount of people on board, as had every ship.
The second day it blew a Sirocco, and the weather was most oppressive. This was the sailing day and off we started. Launches first – then pinnaces – (the weather was very oppressive) and all the launches made sail very fast – all sorts of square sails being got up. We had in our launch a top jib studsail, rigged out by a boom – it answered capitally.
Outside the harbour it was very misty and the wind fell away fast. There were two boats outside to round – but by some mistake all the launches ran some two miles past the rounding point – Caledonias leading and (we all led the pinnaces adrift). So the rearmost boat found her mistake out first and came to the wind; it was our 1st launch. In our boat, seeing it was useless drifting about any longer and that we could not possibly win – we downed the sails and pulled in.
Spent the evening with the Shaws, where I found seven other fellows – so it was rather slow.
28 April – Sunday
Tuesday evening Barrow and I went to the Shaws and had music. The day before we had the sailing races over again, our two launches coming in first and second. Dined on Thursday with Jim Barrow, and yesterday afternoon was going to ride in a riding party, but as we were going to have a ships’ regatta, and I had to get my boat ready – I did not go – for which I was not at all sorry. Dined with the Salmons in the evening – and had music afterwards.
We shall lose White who is promoted and Jack Eden, who got poor Mercer’s death vacancy. Hingston going to the Aurora and McAlpine coming here instead.
Jim Barrow dined on board and we went to the Barracca together, afterwards came on board and smoked and yarned. He told me not at all a bad yarn – At Calcutta – in Galatea at a Ball, a Lieut was dancing with a girl and he saw a very fine girl being brought in, so he said to his partner, who is that girl coming in like a frigate under full sail? His partner said “Oh! that is my sister.” Some little time after he was introduced to this girl and asked her for a dance – She looked up at him and said, “Well Mr. – I don’t know whether it is customary for a Lieut to take charge of a frigate, but we will try.”
29 April – Monday
This morning spar drill most execrably done.
This afternoon I went on board the Agincourt and danced away. A very fair amount of people came on board, taking into consideration the gloominess of the weather – the wind etc. Admiral Campbell had a chat with me – and told me he knew my father well – and called him Jacko Hall. Miss Maclean was about the prettiest girl there – the Shaws did not turn up.
4 May – Sunday
Attended the Barracca this evening – and saw Pritchard – spoke to him on social things. Last Tuesday we had a grand field day up on the Corradino Heights. The Admiral and Miss A. inspecting us. Sent our Commander to Hospital with the fever. Yesterday made calls and had a chat with Courtenay. In the evening had a tea – dinner on board the Agincourt with Jim Barrow, and then we went to the Shaws, and had great fun there, lots of music and dancing. Have not heard from Home this last mail.
The Lord Clyde’s Court Martial is over. The Captain, Bythesea and staff Comdr severely reprimanded and dismissed their ship. The two Lieuts lost two years – one docked two years and the other put to the bottom of the list, which is equal to two years.
9 May – Thursday
Last night a large party of us went to the Shaws and had dancing and music etc.
All this afternoon I have been sailing in my launch taking empties up to Pieta to the P & O there, and had difficult work in beating up the creek, it was blowing so hard, and I had to make such short tacks.
12 May – Sunday
Yesterday afternoon the Agincourt steamed out. I paid a farewell visit to Jim Barrow. I’m sorry he has gone, for he is not at all a bad boy and we had lots in common, knowing each other’s friends so well. Lunched with Tom Triggs on board the Thalia, he gave me all the latest news of my dear people at home. Met Capt. Hickley in Strada Reale, and asked him about his taking Uncle George’s skiff to Gibraltar. He told me if I brought it on Monday, it would be alright – so, having seen Capt. Boileau, I pulled the skiff round to Grand Harbour.
In the evening, went to the Shaws – and we had a regular romp dancing, and doing amateur flirting which is great fun – one of the Miss McLeod’s was there. I must say goodbye to the Shaws tomorrow, for they have been very kind to me – I have made it quite my home.
This forenoon took the Roman Catholics as usual to Chapel and sat it out in the Barracca gardens, not feeling over lively, these cursed debts of mine are weighing very heavy on me – and I don’t see my way clear how to get rid of them yet. I am in the sort of humour that I could see my creditors drowning and I doubt if I would not dance with savage joy at beholding them sinking – but I am doing my best – that is some comfort.
Attend the Barracca this evening – I shall quite miss my continuing service on going away from here.
13 May – Monday
This afternoon I got leave from the Commanding Officer and accordingly made tracks for the sea – got Gilbards skiff and observing at the head of the harbour a steamer with her head down and stern cocked up – I pulled towards, and boarded her – made friends at once with her skipper.
I must first say it was a Norwegian steamer Bergen and a Norse crew. We had a long chat about everything in general and nothing in particular. He took me down to his cabin and introduced me to his daughter, a by no means bad looking girl – his wife he informed me was seedy. I asked him to pay me a visit with his family – either to-morrow or when we come back – but, I’m forgetting to say what was the matter with the steamer – two of her blades had broken off, leaving one only – thus causing a delay of about three weeks. After I left her and had paid the Thalia a visit, I went to the Tamar and spoke about Uncle George’s skiff being hoisted in – which I experienced no difficulty about.
Then I went to the Shaws and found them in a great commotion – the scoundrel of a cook having been most impertinent to the two girls and threatening them etc. I found one of them in tears and poor Mrs Shaw in a great state of mind. I wished I had been there at a time I would have played a stick about his head I think. I bade them all a most affectionate good-bye – and came on board, to find myself late for dinner, a farewell dinner given to White and the fellows going home. Afterwards there followed the usual symptoms that some fellows wanted to retire, but we will pass over the particulars.
DEPART MALTA
15 May – Wednesday
Yesterday afternoon about 4 o’c, the fleet having got steam up – and the Admiral embarking – we slipped with our head about SW and ships on both our bows and quarters. J.B. in a masterly manner took us out. Rounding the Pallas in passing the Custom House, we as near as possible took the stern off a steamer called the Mary, she having let go her anchor right in the fairway and swinging broadside on. She screwed ahead, but put her helm the wrong way and then as we were closing her, she stopped altogether. But that J.B. sang out to them to go ahead again, which they did, thus saving a collision, which would otherwise have occurred. Not that it would have hurt us much.
After waiting outside some little time, the remainder of the fleet came out by degrees and we formed into line – the Helicon with Miss Yelverton and Mrs Brandreth in, steaming round and by us, kissing their hands etc. to their respective father and husband. Then of course came a little drill and after dinner I turned in, and spent the most miserable night, I have had for a long while – the heat being simply intolerable and my cough causing me no slight annoyance.
Kept the morning watch, this morning – made Etna out, looming in the distance and as daylight appeared, made out the snow and slight vapour issuing out.
Have been exercising the great guns in firing at targets 1800 and 1600 yards off and it is wonderful what splendid practice they make and dreadful headaches they give.
Hope to be at Naples the day after tomorrow.
16 May – Thursday
This morning Etna again loomed in sight the summit covered with snow. We entered the straits about 8 o’c a heavy head breeze blowing against us necessarily stopping us considerably.
The country both sides was rugged, but not particularly bold, nor pretty. Its great attraction were the small villages planted on the hills and in the valleys, some at the base, others half way up the hills – looking very pretty and cosy, and the great watercourses now dry and used for roads – some of them I should think were from 400–500 yds broad, winding up the valleys, till lost from view by a bend in the hill.
As we neared Messina, the straits became much narrower, the Sicilian coast appearing the best cultivated and few villages appearing on the Italian side. All along the Sicilian coast, the railway ran – a lot of white houses scattered along the line. This line runs now right down to Syracuse opposite Messina. We sent the Rapid in to get papers etc.
The wind went down about noon and we passed through the Northern entrance of the straits during the afternoon, Charybdis not twirling us about as it did the last time – leaving the rock of Scylla on our starboard hand. This part of the straits is much prettier than the other end – more cultivated and better wooded. Steamboats hoved in view, Rapid appeared bringing only papers for the Admiral.
Drilled for one solid hour and a half bringing the time up to 7 o’c and I don’t feel inclined to do any work, besides it being my First watch. We are enjoying the best of weather.
17 May – Friday
Dead calm. Land ahead being the land round Naples
ARRIVE NAPLES
18 May – Saturday
Got in this morning, the fleet anchoring outside the Mole off Santa Lucia landing place.
A lovely day – the bay looking very pretty – Vesuvius quiet – only smoking at intervals, the lava seems to have come very close to the villages on the coast – it still smokes. Made an engagement with Grillet to have my carte.
19 May – Sunday
Went with Fleet to the Chiaja, and heard the band – the gardens are very nicely lit up – a continual and ceaseless rattle of carriages driving outside was going on – I never saw so many carriages turn out, at any single place.
Went to the grotto of Posillipo yesterday and in the evening after listening to the band, went to San Carlo. Saw the first act of Seraglio, Mme Blum being the prima donna. I should think it was a pretty opera, but the performers in this case were not over good. Then followed a ballet for about two hours – the dresses and scenery were very rich and splendid and the dancing good – a tremendous lot of leg shown. Some of the scenery came down by the run and there came forth a most fearful row from the Italians hissing and shouting. The manager did everything he could to repair the accident, but the Italians did not stop making the noise. So, Musters, Bosanquet and I got up an opposition clapping in which we were joined by about 4 Mids from the Ariadne and continued clapping until we effectually stopped the Italians, by dint of perseverance.
I found an old shipmate of my father’s, in a curious manner, amongst the band playing in the gardens. I went up to ask the name of a piece being played, the bandsman answered me in English. Oh! says I, “You speak English very fairly.” “Yes”, said he – “I was on board an English man-of-war some time. What ship”? I replied – “In the Exmouth up the Baltic”, he said. I told him my Father was Captain of her and was now an Admiral. He asked me what ship I belonged to, so, I fully expect to see him and half Naples off to the ship paying me a visit.
22 May – Wednesday
Yesterday had my photograph done at Grillet – felt as if I must gather myself up for a supreme effort, when I sat down on the chair, and was told to put on a bon expression.
This forenoon, after looking over the Museum, met Martin at the Grand Care, we having predetermined to walk out to San Sebastian and back. After eating an ice, I’m ashamed to say we both felt so lazy, that we, instead of walking, jumped into a carriage, after beating the man down from 10 francs to 4 francs. I’m very glad we did not walk out, for the road was very dusty and the sun very hot. We reached San Sebastian in about an hour and saw before us a sight, which at first did not strike me with such wonder, but it grew over you, by degrees after looking at it. From about half way up the mountain, the lava had poured out in rivers, branching off in different directions, the main stream coming down towards Naples and off a house, it suddenly divided leaving the house intact, the biggest branch cutting through the village about 5–700 yds broad, sweeping every-thing before it, having mercy on nothing, trees, houses, vineyards, all buried by this liquid lava, from 20–30 feet deep.
After destroying the village, it ran into a large plain and having filled it, it stopped running and although the upper surface is hard but still warm, it must be almost in a liquid state beneath as it smokes a great deal. It was astonishing the way in which the lane ran, just as the whim or fancy took it, sparing a house that seemed must go, and cutting a corner of another that seemed alright. People, who were near it at night time, say the mountain looked like a mass of fire ashes that were thrown as far as Florence and Palermo.
DEPART NAPLES
24 May – Friday
At sea, having left Naples, yesterday evening, the sun looked about 10 minutes off setting. Received letters by the Helicon which vessel passed us during the night with the yacht Enchantress in tow, having my namesakes on board – the three girls being by no means bad looking.
26 May – Sunday
Passed through the straits yesterday forenoon, picking up a splendid breeze right aft – sending us along 8 knots. Dined with the Admiral in the evening, and kept the Middle watch.
Felt very seedy. Have been lying off Syracuse all to-day trying to beat up, with little wind, so the result is not very satisfactory.
ARRIVE MALTA
1 June – Saturday
We came into harbour Tuesday last – finding papers, letters etc. Heard from Captain Goodenough who is at Spezzia – also from my Father, Meta and others. Wrote and made a full confession and list of all my debts.
Went to the Opera last night, a very full house, it being the last one for the season. Have been out bathing and in my skiff all day. Heard from Meta and made a call on Mrs Salmon.
The Rapid and Shearwater went out.
4 June – Tuesday
Yesterday witnessed the departure of Sir Patrick Grant – Sir John Straubenzee having come by last Saturday’s Mail. He embarked at Calcarra gate – a guard of honour and band receiving him, together with a large number of military officers and ladies – and proceeded on board the Helicon which had steam up. The fleet manning yards and flagship firing salute 17 guns. Both Admiral and all the Captains together with many ladies bade them goodbye on board the Helicon, and the fountains of the deep were opened. She goes up to Genoa.
6 June – Thursday
Attended the funeral of our Chief Carpenter’s Mate, he having cut his throat the night before last – nearly taking his head off. He did his best to die quietly, for his two hands were found in his throat, evidently trying to tear it apart – but, not having strength enough to do so. I hear he did it through his wife being such a vixen and going wrong continually. They brought in Temporary Insanity but the parson (Bampfield) at R.N.H. objected to bury him, so, the Admiral gave him an order to do so.
Last night, I spent at the Shaws and they had a large party of children there, Aldrich showing them the Magic Lantern. I wish the appointments to Yacht would come out.
The Defence was inspected today and found in apple pie order – she flew a paying off pennant – but has to wait for the Lord Clyde, to escort her home. She will be ready by the 20th of this month and has had to have a new rudder made.
10 June – Monday
Attended the funeral of one of our Marines, who was found drowned in Dockyard Creek, having been in the water two or three days, so he smelt rather. We buried him early in the morning, there are suspicions of foul play, as he had a large sum of money on him and when found had none on him, also his face was knocked in considerably. A Maltese boatman found him at night. In picking up his moorings, he grasped this man’s head.
Went to the 6 o’clock Barracca Chapel in the evening.
DEPART MALTA
20 June – Thursday
It is now ten days since I last put down anything in my journal and I will proceed to jot down some few remarks on what has happened during the interval.
From June 10th to June 16th I was employed on board the Lord Clyde with a large working party from six in the morning until six in the evening – with a couple of hours stand-easy during the day. It was very tiring work and I was not at all sorry when we had finished with her. She came out of dock at the end of the week and the light crane hoisted in her launches and Diana’s leg from Ephesus, about 10 tons or so.
Saturday last, I spent with the Shaws as also Sunday and Monday evening, and bade Mrs Shaw and Nina good-bye, as they both go home to England in the Orontes which sails today from Malta. Mrs Shaw is going home to put her eldest boy and girl to school in Essex and I’ve written to my people to look after them on their arrival etc.
The Fleet sailed Tuesday last for Gibraltar – seven ships in all and we have been steaming ever since using the sails, as the wind was fair or not.
Last night a frightful catastrophe happened in the animal world. It was my Middle watch and about 1.30 am. I heard the most fearful cackling and saw about 18 ducks waddling about so gave chase and boxed them up in the head where they were gallantly collared by the Corporal and put into their home again. About ten minutes had elapsed – when another fearful cackling arose and I looking down from the bridge saw the flock of ducks en masse rush aft on the quarterdeck – to see the officer of the watch! They were headed by the Mid and Corporal of the watch and they rushed forward again – but, this time into the fore chains.
The Corporal in vain tried to head them again, for as soon as they saw him stealthily crawling along towards them, the leader stepped out right merrily, and walked into the water. Some eight or ten more followed – to our horror, and shortly afterwards a small band of five appeared, the remnant of the gallant army that had marched so stately on to the quarterdeck some five minutes before. I went to the gangway and heard quacking going on and past me for some time – and I thought – “There goes the Admiral’s ducks” for I’m thankful to say, they were not G.R. ones.
23 June – Sunday
Steaming, with Research in tow, having carried a fair wind up to this evening, taking us abreast Algiers. Tommy B – took us past the Research very nicely and closely.
ARRIVE GIBRALTAR
29 June – Saturday
Arrived at Gibraltar Thursday last. Having a nice fair wind astern, we came up close to the rock under sail, having towed and cleared a bum-boat out – which we met 25 miles out at sea.
That afternoon I paid a visit to my people, and found them settled in a little jewel of a house situated in Governor’s Lane – found them all looking very well, and much improved by coming here from Malta. Heard of Harry’s being able to enter the Army. After bathing I dined with the Gilbard’s and then going to the Alameda listened to the 71st Band, a very good band indeed. Came off about 11.30 pm.
Next day I was busy at the Victualling Yard – filling bags with biscuits, stowed in tanks, each tank holding about 1000 lbs, and each bag 100 lbs. Filled 360 bags.
The Helicon coming in brought the mails, and I heard from my father – my hopes of the yacht have all but vanished.
30 June – Sunday
This morning the Endymion came in under sail, the wind falling very light. She lowered both cutters and these two with a bum-boat tried towing her.
After taking the RC’s, instead of coming off, I went to the Gilbard’s found them on board the Caledonia to lunch so had lunch by myself. After bathing, went to St John’s Chapel and came back to dinner, Capt. Salmon and Madden dining there also – the latter is of a very dry humour replete with yarns – and I never before heard of so many stories, with double meanings attached repeated before a lady, but the lady would stay.
1 July – Monday
Been provisioning all this morning. One man broke his leg by a bag of biscuits falling on it. This afternoon went out to the Neutral Ground, and saw a cricket match. Fleet v Garrison, the latter going in first, went out for 210 runs or thereabouts – and the former out for xxx wickets down. Had a delicious bathe at Rosia Bay.
4 July – Thursday
Yesterday lunched with my Aunt, and after getting a letter from Lily and bidding good-bye to my Aunt and doing the same to Ethel, whom I met riding home from school, I went for a bathe and got on board to keep the 4 to 6 watch. Dining, I went into the Reading room, read the latest papers and then came on board to keep the First watch and I’m sure it was enough to make one feel five years older.
The Governor and Colonels, Aide-de-Camps coming on one side, ship surging about and stage constantly slipping off the mole and Post Captains on the other side – about 11 o’clock I am thankful to say they all went away. One Colonel would persist in trying to light his cigar from a lantern, half-a-gale of wind blowing.
This morning, we began getting chains ashore and about 11 o’c the fleet started, including Research, Pallas, and Caledonia; the Defence, Lord Clyde and Ariadne having gone for England yesterday morning. Made sail before dinner, with a slashing breeze astern, sending us along 9 knots.
DEPART GIBRALTAR
6 July – Saturday
Been sailing by the wind for the last 30 hours and literally making nothing, so it is to be hoped that the wind changes, or that we make use of the fair wind in the bunkers.
9 July – Tuesday
Wind still the same and ship still on port tack, barometer high, and although the wind gave signs of changing this morning, it has belied its appearance. The only change is that, except during the middle of the day, it is very misty and at times drizzling. We ought to get a change of wind soon, from the Westward – as we are getting on to the W of West longitude. The thermometer has dropped on an average of 8 to 10 degrees, since our coming out into the Atlantic. We have not seen a sail for the last three days. The Squadron make about 1 in 12 miles to windward, not so bad, for the ironclads, but there is little sea on.
Last night I dined with the Admiral, sitting on his left. J.B. was quite merry and jovial, relating about a gale of wind which he was in, in the Orion, having left his Captain ashore. He remained outside Queenstown looking for a wreck, the remainder of the fleet having gone in, and next morning on going into harbour, the 1st Lord said he was the only one that had done right – the remainder of the Captains said, he remained outside, as he liked being in command. The Admiral was conversational – and he saw I did not drink the Queen’s health, being a teetotaller, so he said, “Hall, it is not at all disrespectful to drink Her Majesty’s Health in water” – and gave me the pump and I drank it right loyally – which, if I could have got the water, I would have done without the Admiral saying anything.
12 July – Friday
Steaming to Northward, having been becalmed for the last 48 hours, charming weather, and weather that makes one regret going into port. This morning firing at target, knocked one away, hitting the other. It being calm, a cutter was lowered and several turtles – small ones – picked up. We had passed through quite a school of them – one of them being too lazy to get out of the way, was rammed and turned over.
Last night we had a good evening’s drill, shifting top sail yard and jib-boom.
16 July – Tuesday
Sailing along before the long wished for Westerly breeze – having picked it up this morning. Nothing of interest has happened during the last four days – routine followed out &c.
19 July – Friday
Steaming along 5 knots, the Westerly breeze not over affectionate at the best of times, having bid us a cold farewell today.
Yesterday evening whilst drilling, a man fell overboard from fore rigging, struck sheet anchor, gashing his head open in the passage. A couple of blue-jackets, Clancy and Blessingham and Lieut Kane (carrying on forward) jumped in after him and kept him up – till the cutter came up.
The ship was not moving much at time, or very slightly so and when the cutter was about four feet above water, being fitted with hooks, the tackle was slipped, but, lo! the after fall held – and although ship had little way on, cutter was soon broadside. The foremost fall slipping – and after fall out, through the pin not having been taken out. If ship had been going ahead the boat must have been swamped and more lives endangered – through negligence.
Been working hard at my French, average two hours and a half per day.
ARRIVE VIGO
23 July – Tuesday
I was in hopes of escaping further Middle watches at sea for this cruise, but the westerly breeze failed us and not getting up steam, kept us out last night, but, before going further I must first state how necessary it is to have steam always ready at command in these ironclads. Yesterday morning, the wind fell very light, and the ship got into the wind and would not go off, although head, yards were a-box – and Caledonia holding wind forged down very close to us. We immediately got up steam, but before we found it necessary to use it, the wind came up stronger and the ship’s head paid off, but now if by any chance, a shift of wind had put Caledonia in a similar predicament to what we were in, and steam had not been handy in either vessels, the consequences would have been disastrous.
The same way during the afternoon the wind falling light and a swell on weather quarter – she got into the wind, and although head yards were braced a-box and after sails lifting, she actually would not pay off at all and did not do so until the after yards were squared – and then she went off and afterwards we furled all sails in M-zn.
In my Middle watch last night, we sighted revolving light some 20 miles off and daylight made land. On getting up in the morning found sails furled and steaming up Vigo Bay. Made out Helicon at anchor. The country looked very pretty so jolly and green. Came to close off the town. Received letters from my mother, Meta and a charming epistle from Frances.
This afternoon M’Alpine and I went ashore, and struck out into the country to right of the town, walked to a trout stream some two miles out. Not at all a bad walk, remained there some time, and walked back to town. Repaired to Casino of which we are Honorary Members, had a game of billiards with M’Alpine, the balls being something after the style of 32 pdrs and cues like a weavers beam. The country looks wild and pretty, is very mountainous – well-wooded – little pasturage, but generally cultivated – fruit, vegetables etc. The farm houses seem extensive and massively built with a square tower. I suppose brigands and Carlists make their appearance now and again. The town is pretty clean and built on two sides of a hill, consequently the streets are hilly and steep. I was struck with the large number of women, as compared to the men and also their fine looks, really very pretty, fine teeth etc. Few prettier girls out of England that I have seen, come up to the women here. It will be a disagreeable contrast going to Lisbon. Came on board, and found a sewing party underweigh, but felt too tired to go.
25 July – Thursday
Had a walk yesterday, meeting Gussy Fane, went to the trout stream 2 miles out, remained there some time and no luck coming, strolled on, and back into the town. The women as I said before are pretty and moderately immoral, accosting you in the streets in even a more open manner than at Naples, brats of boys pimping, when they should be at home or in the nursery.
Swiftsure came in this morning, bringing me a long letter from my dearest Father, who seems to be very busy both officially and commercially. I sincerely hope that the two together may not bring complications, but I have forebodings. Endymion came in yesterday, so we have a very fair squadron.
Went ashore this afternoon with M’Alpine to a small trout stream, two miles off to try our luck. Not being Jobs we left the fish behind us and came into the town. At the Casino had a game of billiards, in which I came off victor.
26 July – Friday
Remained on board all day, it raining hard, off and on, the whole time. Sewing party away, luckier than the last, this one a very select party under Bruce. They dragged at the same place as the last party – opposite the town.
27 July – Saturday
This morning, Perry, Paul and myself started from the ship at about a quarter to nine for a long walk, but before going we had a look in at the market – which together with the square, were full of people and cattle, it being market-day.
At 9 o’c we started on the Lisbon road and had proceeded as far as the trout stream, when we caught up a party of Spaniards – four women and one man – one of the women being very pretty, broadside on. I should think about 20 years of age. After saluting each other, we three marched on and struck up some ditties, which possessed neither music nor melody, however the Spaniards being close behind us laughed and seemed amused, so we struck up chums and walked together; Perry keeping up desultory conversation with them – he knowing a little Spanish. Paul and I were not so fortunate and had to do everything by looks.
We all halted at a wine-shop some six miles out and we stood wine all round. Had some difficulty in getting the old lady to take English money and off we started again – and had gone about ten miles, through really very nice country on a good road, (it is mountainous – and the vine and maize are what are principally grown – they make very pretty avenues – by first erecting trestle-work and then growing the vine right over, forming delicious arbours and avenues, both to look at and to recline under), when Perry’s chum and her little sister turned off into a bye-path and left us all plunged in grief – to the company of the remaining three which, however did not make up her loss. She said, as she left, in a very pretty manner – “God be with you all.”
I never saw a woman walk so well as she did – walked like a queen, every inch of her – barefooted, but had small feet and hands – middle-sized, but very nice figure, her walk was simply perfection – dark eyes and picturesque dress. She looked something like a Gitana. All the women walk very well. They seem to do all the carrying work in baskets, carried on their head, being poised on a small round coil of cotton, fitting on top of head – and they walk long distances from the country, into Vigo to do business and at a good round pace with these weights on their head.
The women in this part of Spain (Galicia) wear a very picturesque dress – a coloured handkerchief over head, and falls down back, then a body, or stomacher, fitting close without sleeves, then a short dress, their arms are enveloped by cotton sleeves from their shirt under stomacher, or whatever it may be.
After walking about 11 miles, we stopped and bade good-bye to our friends, who said all sorts of pretty things and then we plunged down into a valley, thickly wooded, some hundred feet deep with a village and stream at bottom. But in going half way down I saw a very nice sheltered spot, on which I threw myself – contagion took – Perry did likewise, but Paul would go down to the miserable village to get something. Our friends had warned us not to go down, saying that the inhabitants were robbers and we would be lost. (I think however that their statements were very overdrawn, and interested, for they wished for our company). Paul could get nothing but a couple of pears, so we took our siesta and staying there three quarters of an hour we started to go back same way walking a good round pace – the road to here being very pretty.
Met any amount of good people coming back from Vigo – and a lot of boys, under charge of a pretty girl passed us, running by. She halted them and let us pass by – and on our halting at a wine shop, she marched them past (some dozen of them) and made them all salute us with a Boa Tarde, as the young urchins all said it one after the other it sounded like soft murmurs of waters – a very pretty and graceful compliment, I thought.
Had some fun with people returning from town, saluting with a “Buenos Tarde” and they returning the compliment with much mirth – some saying “Ingleses very good.” There is one thing that I wish they would improve, i.e. their country carts – with wooden wheels, which creak and groan d-----.
On approaching the town the “I says” (expression in town, used towards English. What it means, no one knows for certain) increased, also the other one, more offensive. One blackguard using it towards a very pretty girl, I should say his sister. Two near relations, to all appearance with them, the two men not saying anything, we all felt inclined to kick the young blackguards’ backside. This happened about two miles out of town.
We got on board, about six o’clock, had a bath and good dinner, with a knowledge of having most thoroughly enjoyed oneself. We got over about 23 or 24 miles of ground, certainly not less than 22. Now I’m off to my couch – to a rest, well earned.
28 July – Sunday
Went ashore after dinner for a stroll, and made my way up the Madrid road, where a fiesta was going on. Passed some dozen cattle some of them in a most deplorable state – came on board early.
31 July – Wednesday
Out firing in launch. Found that all the shot after the first strike in water inclined considerably to the right, I suppose some 20 to 30 degrees, so I had to knock off firing.
Next day went out under sail, anchored and fired away – and returned under sail.
The Helicon ordered to England and Nugent one of her subs having invalided, Graves applied for and got the vacancy to hold it for this trip. I did not hear of the vacancy until too late. I then spoke to the Secretary – and he said he would ask the Admiral that night, which he never did.
So this morning, I asked the Captain. He said – “Everyone wants to go Home – Mr Graves is on leave – no room – No – can’t spare you” – so I went down to my breakfast rather crestfallen but still hungry. I think he might have served a son of one in same trade, better, especially my father holding a command at Devonport to which place the Helicon goes. This afternoon I’ve been on watch, having to keep Graves’ watch.
The boats of the fleet out sailing with a good breeze. We have had regular West Country weather lately here, heavy showers of rain. Bathe every day.
Saturday next we go to sea for a fortnight.
1 August – Thursday
Went ashore with Perry this morning and walked out a short distance on the Madrid road and came to under a shady spot, just off the road, where we layed down, smoked and Perry recounted to me all about his difficulties and adventures attached to his engagement. We then walked back, and Perry returned on board to shift for calling on some Spanish girls who had paid the ship a visit last Sunday. Met Powell at the Club – had a game of billiards with him, beating him and then went for a stroll, up some lanes – had to whack a young boy across his backside, for pestering me for mile with a very pretty little girl about six years of age.
DEPART VIGO
3 August – Saturday
Rolling about with little wind. Vigo astern some 15 miles, having left it this forenoon in company with fleet. We towed Endymion out, with a 9 in. hawser.
Had my last walk ashore yesterday afternoon, when I stretched out and walked along the Madrid road and came to under the same tree that I had done under the preceding day. Had Goldsmith with me and smoked some cigarettes reading his essays, passed a very pleasant afternoon reading. Picked Target up, a Sub-lieut, on the road and we walked back together. Came on board tired, wrote some letters and turned in.
On hauling in the starboard bower cable, found a dozen links in one shackle, where it had taken the copper, damaged by galvanic action. Some links being eat into more than eighth of an inch – shifted this length and put a length of sheet on in its place.
7 August – Wednesday
A couple of days ago picked up a westerly breeze, which has been blowing ever since. Put the ship under double reefed topsails last night in my first watch – and had not long finished the evolution when down came a squall slap, bang went the jib-boom over the bows taking the jib with it. The broken piece floated out of the funnel and relieved us from any trouble on its account, by gaily floating away. The helm was put hard up – housed Fore Top G. mast – and got sail tackle up, hooked on to clew of jib and walked it inboard then got wreck of ropes up. The Captain was very quiet, he could not very well pitch into any-one, for he would carry it on.
Yesterday forenoon sighted a man of war, which turned out to be the Repulse bound for the Pacific station with Admiral Hillyar’s flag flying – exchanged salutations.
8 August – Thursday
Rolling about all the day, with little wind. Drilled this evening – smoked after dinner, heard some facetious yarns about bluejackets. One the Hannibal paying off at Plymouth – some of the crew hired a coach and hoisted a donkey up each side for quarter boats. Whenever anything was dropped – “Away lifeboat’s crew – lower away – pick up article and hoist away.”
Another funny thing happened at Gibraltar – two bluejackets riding one mule – rode into the Alameda, charging a regiment full tilt – one fellow holding on to the tail, the other on to the mane. Colonel – : “Why the D-- do you run into regiment? Don’t pitch into me Sir” – Jack was at helm and steered her – Colonel – : “Then why the d-- did you steer into regiment”? “Well, I will be d--- I was steering, but Tom never reported regiment ahead – he being on the lookout.” So the Colonel getting no satisfaction allowed them to ride off.
ARRIVE CORUNNA
12 August – Monday
Arrived here this forenoon – sighting the land last night. Late in the afternoon we had a good Easterly wind – and were under double reefed topsails. Stood off during the night – took in my Middle watch – ship went round very well indeed. Found no letters or papers waiting. Had lots of people off to see the ship – many Spanish damsels – one boat load created a tremendous row alongside, a little swell being on, and they were on the upper deck when a salute was fired and such a screaming and mild fainting went on. Bay is large, but open to a Northerly and N Westerly breeze and a good swell comes tumbling in. Ferrol is on the opposite side about two hours by steamer.
14 August – Thursday
Two and twenty years ago at xxx am. a boy entered this world – and now after the aforementioned interval – he is a Sub in the Royal Navy on 5/– a day – and I wonder whether two and twenty years on he will still be in the land of the living, and if is, what rank in service etc. and whether a ‘benedict’, or no – the chances to that are all in favour of his being one.
Yesterday forenoon – Perry and I found our way ashore, equipped in the lightest of costumes, pockets full of biscuit, lots of lights etc. and a stick. We first trod the sod at 10 o’c and went to Sir John Moore’s grave. We had not the least difficulty in finding our way, because as some half dozen boats landed from the fleet full of officers, and nearly all took their way to the tomb. A continual stream of naval officers continued to pour on through the streets, towards the part [of the]rampart, on which is placed a small garden, enclosed by a wall.
We entered in, first looked at garden, the walks are laid out in the form of an Union Jack – the lines finding their concentric at Sir John Moore’s tomb, which is in the form of an immense cradle standing on a pedestal, and surrounded by a square railing, Acacia trees growing around. An inscription on the tomb gives the date (1809) and a short eulogy to his memory – and another inscription tells you that the gardens were laid out, (to his memory) by some Spanish grandee – mayhap the same one that removed his body to Madrid – where it is now.
Having bought some photographs, and been presented with some shrubs off his tomb by a Spanish girl – (you may be sure, not for nothing – for how often are disinterested actions or kindnesses done, without a view to some future benefit – few and far between). We walked through the principal street of the town – which is well paved but, like many Spanish towns, has no footway – shops small and not those that would delight the eyes of a young English lady, but I think everything not actually out of the common, nor, the last fashion, can be got here – as I got several things and did not find any difficulty.
The town is surrounded by ramparts, and is divided into three parts, two inside ramparts and one, an excrescence from the old town, outside ramparts. Looking from the country, just outside the town, it reminds you of Syracuse – the inlet from the Bay running round in the same manner – and town built on rocky peninsula jutting boldly out.
The people are like most Spanish people, women very passable – most of them have a very voluptuous look – dark eyes and sensual looking lips – and the men are poor looking (I’m talking of the town people). In the country, the men and women are both passable – the women having a healthier look – and they seem to lose that luxurious and voluptuous appearance, that their sisters in the town possess, in exchange for as pretty, but a little homelier look. In my opinion, they do not lose by the exchange.
After wandering through the town, we struck out into the country, towards the battle-field – and at last fetched under a tree, some three miles out, under which we threw ourselves down – had luncheon, smoked, talked, wrote a few lines to Meta. (Perry the same to his true love) and then laid on our backs and watched some women washing in a stream, which was running not far from where we were lying down.
The sun having descended many degrees, we rose, shook our laziness from off us and put on a piece of energy and forthwith began leaping to and fro over the aforesaid brook, Perry beating me – but, I was at a disadvantage, having my thick boots on. We, having satisfied and thrown off energy, next took to ourselves idling – finding our way along and between hedges, gathering all the ripe blackberries that we could lay hands on. At last we stretched out, and soon fetched the town posting our letters and doing a little shopping – finished our day ashore.
Came off – had dinner – and after dinner a small party joined our G.R. gathering – to wit – Father, son, two daughters and a small son. They drank – sang – at least the son played the violin, which he had brought off and the father began humming, after a respectable number of glasses of wine. After giving them tea – it being precious hot – I offered my arm to one of the girls and led her on to the upper deck – followed by her sister, a waltz being played at the time. I took a turn and then consigned her to the care of some one else. They remained on board some time until they seeing their Father actually could not stand, he having fallen down a ladder – bade good-bye.
A good many people visited the ship both yesterday and today. This forenoon some really very nice girls came down into G.R. and we showed photograph books etc – one said of Meta’s très jolie – but I was showing it.
We weighed anchor at 2 pm and steamed across taking an hour and a half – it being about 12 miles across. Ferrol stands at the head of the harbour and some two to three miles from its mouth which has high land, both sides. The harbour is wide at entrance, suddenly narrowing to about 4 – 500 yds halfway up to Ferrol, and then opening again into a small bay, on the Northern side of which stands Ferrol, but more of it anon.
17 August – Saturday
Anxiously expecting the King of Spain, for his not being punctual, keeps us all on board, and as it is my all day off it is a great bore.
The Aurora came in this morning from Vigo. The Helicon came in Thursday from Plymouth and brought me about a dozen letters every-one at home writing.
My Father also most kindly sent me £10 – and knowing the difficulty he must have had to send it – makes the gift ten times as valuable – but, the affection that is showed cannot be measured. He also told me of his refusing to allow an engagement to take place between darling Meta and Grogan of the 42nd, until he had a sufficient income to keep her on – his estates being heavily mortgaged and a lot of annuities charged on it. I’m very sorry for both parties for he is from my father’s account a splendid young fellow and they are both very much in love with each other. I hope things may turn up brighter for them both.
I see from my Father’s letter how hard he must find it to make both ends meet – and how necessary it is for me to save everything I can – not only with a view to paying off my own debts, but also I must remember my dear father cannot live for ever – and then, I must look after the young children.
Had a nice long letter from Henry. Heard from many other friends – and received a lot of butter from Meta and Russie – which was very acceptable.
Last night got into trouble through Mr Seymour Pelham Dacres. Confounded ass, about as much fit for a Flag Lieut as he is for anything else, except a rowdy gun-room.
18 August – Sunday
Went ashore this afternoon – but before I go further, I must relate how the King of Spain arrived in the Vitoria.
At 4 pm a signal was made that the ship was in sight entering the harbour and shortly afterwards she hove in sight – carrying all the bunting that she could on her masts, yards, etc. On her arriving in the narrowest part of entrance, salutes were fired from the big fort at inner entrance and from boats with guns, which had gone out to meet her. She steamed slowly up between the two lines and cast anchor ahead of us – the fleet manning yards and firing salutes.
Le Strange’s sister and brother-in-law, a Mr and Mrs Oliphant came with the King, he having given them a passage. They came on board here and were put up for the night in side cabin of the Admiral’s. The town and ships were illuminated very well – especially the latter.
This afternoon I went ashore by myself and posted a letter with £5 in it, to Guy and Eames – and also had a stroll into the country. The town is paved badly, the drains run through the centre of the streets and of course emit an unpleasant smell. The houses are of moderate size – most of them have balconies and projecting windows. Met the King several times driving about with a small escort. In my opinion, he was received most coldly, few people saluting him. The English Officers were very noticeable with respect to saluting him, in comparison with these Spaniards.
I went outside the town a short distance, and the heat being rather great, I laid me down under the shade of a tree and read a little and finally dozed off – woke up after an interval of about an hour, and walked back into the town – meeting a lot of country people who had been to see His Majesty.
Went over the Dockyard – which is of moderate size. I suppose about the size of Sheerness Yard. It contains a large basin and some good sized buildings – with a few small dry docks. In the basin were a couple of frigates – one an old and one new – and an ironclad, half armoured – i.e. I should say, with only half her armour on, for she is only to be a partially armoured ironclad. She carried 10 guns on main deck, contained in a battery, and on the upper deck amidships, she has another box for two guns, and the top g. f’cle is pierced for four guns, I should think of small calibre. Her rudder is protected well as her stern overlaps the rudder post, she having a shovel nosed stern. Came on board.
DEPART CORUNNA
23 August – Friday
Monday last, His Most Gracious Majesty, King of Spain, paid us a visit about 2 pm with a large suite of Spaniards – and went all round the ship. He was very pleased at the lower deck, which is very nicely got up and was well lit up. We then went to General Headquarters and the men worked exceedingly well – and some electric firing and His Majesty finished his visit.
In the evening he came to dine with the Admiral at 8 pm. Altogether 36 sat down – King in the centre – Admiral Yelverton on left and Mrs Oliphant on the right. Admiral Beranger – Minister of Marine on left of Admiral and so on. It being my First watch, I had to keep it, the whole time in full dress, for the dinner was not over until 10 o’c. There were only two toasts – His Majesty proposing the Queen’s health – and then the Admiral proposing the King’s health, with the vivas.
About 10.30 they came on to the poop, which had been turned into a smoking divan, by securing all foreign ensigns to wheel of field piece, and tricing it up and taking flags out to side. Made a very pretty and good sized tent, it was well lit up. They smoked until seven bells and then His Majesty departed, leaving the ship at 11.45. The fleet lit blue lights at yard arms and fired a royal salute, it looked very pretty indeed. Then the remainder of the guests departed – some exceedingly lively – one a Times reporter H--- fell flat on his nose on arriving ashore. The King, I believe, drank nothing, being next door to a teetotaller.
I must now give a short description of his personal appearance. His Majesty is tall, I should say, very nearly 6 feet – slightly built, and has an angular face, the sharpness concealed by beard and moustache and whiskers that he wears – pale complexion and very fine dark eyes, that have a fixed languid look about them – small hands and sonorous voice – thus stands Amadeus the First.
Next day the fleet got up steam and forming single line, Flagship leading, steamed round the harbour and formed astern of the Vitoria and proceeded out of harbour in her wake. When in the harbour part of entrance, a steam launch would persist in trying to cross our bows. The helm was put to starboard and we caught the launch on the bluff of our bows, not doing much damage. The coxswain of the launch threw his tiller overboard and went after it, followed by two other Spaniards – in fact they all lost their heads. There were a lot of women in the boats, so the screaming was truly terrific. We lowered out life-boats very quickly. His Majesty waited for us. We took little more than an hour to steam across – and when anchored fired salutes, manned yards etc. on the King’s landing. Next day – Wednesday – His Majesty and the fleet departedfrom Corunna – and when outside bay, we manned rigging, fired salute and cheered him. The Vitoria acknowledged it by dipping her ensign.
I dined that night with the Admiral, who of course was full of the King – relating anecdotes. One was that at dinner the Admiral said to him: “I wish to propose a toast quietly between us.” The King asked: “What is it”? Admiral: “To our well beloved Italy.” King put his hand under the table and pressed the Admiral’s. He had to be careful of giving offence for Admiral Beranger, Minister of Marine sat next him. General Burgos, the man who seeing the assassins at Madrid raising their guns, without ceremony shoved both the King and Queen to the bottom of the carriage and stood over them; he was not at dinner, as J.B. said, he had his family to look after.
The last thing the King did was to ask the Admiral to cancel all punishments, being undergone in the fleet at that time, which the Admiral did, and thus we bade good-bye to the King of Spain, and may he have a long and prosperous reign, for he surely deserves it.
We steamed straight out from land and then made sail to a good Northerly breeze.
25 August – Sunday
Dear Francie’s birthday – 12 years of age, how we are all shooting up.
The Helicon goes in today to Vigo, to take letters and see if Invincible has arrived – if so, we shall go in at once. This is very monotonous work carrying about, with no object in view but to kill time. How I should like to make My Lord’s cruise about for a few weeks off Finisterre. Yesterday, we were as near as possible over the spot that the Captain went down at.
Just finished Bulwer Lytton’s My Novel [?] and like it very much. I think that the character of Randal Leslie is drawn a little too strong in refined villainy.
Aurora and Swiftsure have been sailing matches the last few days, the former invariably winning.
ARRIVE VIGO
3 September – Tuesday
Came in here last Wednesday, under all possible sail, and it must have been a very pretty sight from the shore to see us all coming in. We came in by the North entrance. Of course we anchored under steam – found the Helicon and an English yacht in here called the Bella-donna belonging to an Englishman called Slingsby-Bethell, son of Lord Westbury.
Went ashore next day with Perry and had a delightful walk over the country, roaming about through some very pretty lanes. At last we lost our way and at last we sat on a large stone and played at noughts and crosses – in which pastime we were discovered by Capt. Buckle and Pickard, who, looking at us for some little time, could no longer keep their gravity, but burst out laughing and we all four laughed, at what none of us knew. However on we roamed – and found our way into the town at last, came off and had a good dinner.
Next two days on. A very nice English girl married to an Italian came on board with her half sister, a Frenchwoman. They also came on board to church – and came into G.R..
Yesterday – I heard from Annie who is going to be married on the 25th. They spend their honeymoon in Switzerland. Meta is staying with them up at Moffat.
Yesterday I was showing some very nice people round and suddenly was asked to look out for the barge – so down I jumped shifted and off to the Caledonia where the Admiral was, having been inspecting her – as she goes home next Thursday.
Arriving there, found the Bethells and Capt. Buckle and Flag Lieut ready to embark, so off we started being towed by steam pinnace for the head of the harbour to look at the French diving vessel. After half an hour’s run up to her, past the place where some English men-of-war some few score of years ago broke a chain across the harbour, we ranged up alongside the vessel, but found they were not at work, as they don’t work on a Monday.
She was a fine roomy vessel and had been an old East Indiaman. A Frenchman took us over the vessel showing us all the machinery used, the magnetic lights etc. and the huge diving bell. He told us that they got nothing in the shape of money from the first, and from the one on which they were at work, they had got 3,000 dollars. But I expect they took a moderate number of them down with them. I believe the company is not in a very flourishing condition.
We steamed up alongside the yacht – and we went on board – she is very roomy indeed being over seven feet ‘tween decks. She has a large sitting room, panelled with walnut wood, and well fitted up and very roomy sleeping cabins.
I got on board just in time to shift and off to Swiftsure to dine with Capt. Cleveland, refusing an invitation to the Admiral’s. They keep a very good mess on board indeed, and I had a pleasant dinner. Came on board about 9.30 pretty wet through. Next day it came on to blow from the S West and we had to veer cable to 8 fm. However I landed in the afternoon, with Byron and had a pleasant walk reading the Giaour.
Kept Bailey’s 6–8 watch and about 10 pm with eight other fellows, all from the gun room except Wood – went ashore in the steam pinnace, to attend a ball given by the good people ashore to the fleet. We arrived there just before 11 pm and soon found partners, there being a super-abundance of ladies. The fleet was very badly represented – our ship comprising more than half the number of Naval Officers present. Capt. Ward was the only Captain present. There were about 200 people present, and there was lots of room for dancing. The dances danced were the Waltz, Lancers, Danza – Rigadoon and Polka.
The Danza, you both stood as close together as decency permitted and then danced (or stepped rather) back slowly, preparatory to taking half-a-dozen turns of a waltz step and so on until further orders. The Rigadoon danced something similar to our quadrille, but with six figures. The Spaniards did not dance much mayhap from politeness to their English guests, but I don’t think that they go in for fast dancing much. It became very hot later on, and one could only get very sweet milk and lemonade to quench the thirst and for anything more solid – some very nasty sticky confectionery had to suffice.
I had great fun at the ball, although my speaking was very limited, I managed to make myself understood pretty well. There was no difficulty in getting dances for the girls abounded, beyond what was required. Some of them very pretty – one especially, some Countess from Madrid, I had the pleasure of dancing with her. I found that few of the girls could speak French. Was introduced to the English girl, wife of an Italian ex-Consul at Cardiff. We had a long chat together.
The ball broke up about 2.30 and down through the rain we came to the landing – and after some difficulty got a boat to come off, in paying four dollars for seven of us. We got well wet through – but enlivened the way with songs – Foote giving us a good many.
9 September – Monday
The next two days after the ball were my two days on and nothing of account happened – excepting the Caledonia left the fleet on the 5th inst, homeward bound. She went out on a very rainy day about 2 pm. and her men ran away with the anchor gear in the most astonishing manner. We exchanged a lot of affectionate signals and then as she steamed through the lines – the fleet manned the rigging and as she passed gave her three most hearty cheers, which she returned most lustily.
Last Friday took a stroll with Denny through the lanes, we found ourselves getting very thirsty, during the course of the afternoon and coming to a large country house, with a small field with melons in front. They tempted us sufficiently as to make us enter and ask for one – which after a great deal of laughing and signs, we got, presenting the maid servant with a silver piece at the same time. It was a very big one and as Denny would not carry it – I had to, holding it in both
my arms like a huge baby, and walked off amidst much merriment from the spectators. However as we had the melon we did not mind, but we most certainly did mind on arriving at a very shady little place, and after much difficulty with my penknife, opening it, to find the melon quite unripe – Oh! ye gods!, how we swore.
This afternoon, a large steam yacht of over 400 tons came in, belonging to Samuelson Esq. MP. The officer of the guard on, boarded her before she got pratique, and so J.B. in a very facetious manner sent him back, and told him if they were put into quarantine, that he would have to remain there and sent him back to wait until they got pratique. They remained some time, and were made very comfortable indeed – cigars, grog, etc etc., I don’t suppose they would have minded remaining in quarantine some longer time, in such good company. There are a large party on board – some ladies and children. Babington’s yacht sailed this afternoon and the Bella-donna yesterday for Lisbon. We shall go as soon as the Invincible comes out.
The Captain wants to move over to the other side, on account of there being such a fearful amount of venereal disease knocking about – an enormous number of men in the flat are laid up with it, not to take into account those that don’t come forward. The Consul states that most of the women come in from the country but from the scenes, that one can’t help seeing from the Club, what goes on in the Ladies Street, it is not to be wondered at. I think some system of fining both for that and for drunkenness should be instituted and that it would be efficacious to a certain degree – but more especially, would I introduce it for drunkenness – for syphilitic diseases I should stop a man’s wages, or a certain amount of them whilst he was unable to do his duty, for why should the country support a man that does no duty, through his own folly.
DEPART VIGO
12 September – Thursday
The day before yesterday Denison and I went out for a stroll, striking up from the Madrid road into some trees to the right. We soon came to anchor under a very shady young oak, and rested there some little time. We then went on and passing through a small village, bought a melon and having gained a nice shady spot in a lane, we proceeded to demolish it, and in a very short time it had disappeared down our mouths with the exception of a slice we gave an old lady, who was driving a donkey and seemed on the best of terms with it – quite unlike Mr Sprott the tinker. We came on board by the 6 o’c boat.
Next day, Wednesday 11 September will be red letter day in my journal, a day in which I had great fun – for (now for the recountal) – ye gods.
The Gun Room Officers – or, rather a large number of them – had decided to give a picnic to the fair Senoritas of Vigo and asked about 15 or 16 ladies, not more than 4 having passed the age of five and twenty; and those 4 chaperones – I must do them the credit of saying behaved very well the whole time and were no check to the amusement – but I am anticipating.
Well the day appeared arrayed in its busy apparel – a clear blue sky for its vesture – but the sun, its countenance was too bright – there being no wind. After morning drill &c. we shoved off from the ship in 1st Launch, with the masts up and small awning spread – lots of flags and rugs in the boat – about 11 o’c and pulled ashore (how the milk of human kindness ran down ) to the pier. It took us some time to collect the ladies, and about 12.30 a nice sea breeze having sprung up – off we shoved and ran up the harbour under all sail – the stern sheets of the boat being packed with ladies – Perry, sly dog, in the centre and remainder of us perched round. After an hour’s run up the harbour, opposite a little wood, we let go the anchor, but saw something was wrong amongst the ladies, who deputed Perry to inform us that the place did not appear to them at all a desirable place for a picnic. So we up anchor and sailed along to another place, about a mile higher up – this time the ladies were satisfied – and now we proceeded to land them in the dinghy – and found at first some little difficulty – the water running out shallow. But we deposited them all on shore, by making a Highland chair for them.
The tent was pitched in a nice little piece of level ground, and the ladies sat on the side of a hill, under the shade of an oak tree – all of us scattered amongst them – reclining at their feet. Luncheon was announced and we marshalled the Senoritas and Senoras round the spread and began the business of the day. I was seated between the Countess and her charming little daughter and did my duty like a Trojan, as carver, etc. The dowagers eat as only dowagers can eat. We had some toasts and much vive by the Senoritas – and then the damsels retired, leaving us alone – with the Spanish bucks. I should think the Spaniards had been starving themselves in anticipation of the picnic, for they eat in a most disgusting manner. We had a lot of toasts, and some of the bucks got very chummy. Whilst we were eating, the ladies sang outside as they promenaded the road – a small gravelly country road.
The luncheon finished, we joined the ladies and Foote, one of our Mids, having brought the ship’s violin, scraped away on it – playing polkas, waltzes etc, and picking up our ‘sympathetic’ girls, off we went tearing up and down the road.
One Spaniard, a horrid little fellow in specs, whom I shall denominate The Buck, being very tight, went on in a most idiotic style, rolling about and went over with his partner, so we walked him off and laid him under a tree. He had his senses about him, but his legs were gone – he grinned in a most complacent style as he was being carried off.
We went back and resumed our dancing, and kept it up for about an hour – the tea was brought round – and having sat and chatted a little while, we went down to the boat and with some little trouble got the ladies safely stowed. We were just going to shove off, when some one said, “Where is the buck”? – and then we remembered him under the tree and fetched him off; handed him into the bows of the launch.
We took to the oars and began to pull the boat back, when to my disgust I saw The Buck had got aft and was doing what he ought not to have done to a lady. So calling Nipper, who came aft, he took him by the neck and carried him forward again, his resistance was of a passive description – but, if not, he could not have done much, for most of the Spaniards had arms like an Englishman’s thumb. However, The Buck did not cause any row – so on we went, with a fine bright moon dead calm and the Senoritas singing in the stern – and viva us.
We stopped several times and gave them a song and then came a lot of cheering to the Senoritas of Vigo and so on. After an hour’s tiring pull, we arrived safely at the pier, but now came the difficulty for there being a serenade that evening the ladies wished us to pull them round the fleet, but most of us being very wet and tired did not feel up to it. We got out of the difficulty by turning them all over to Mr Hardy in the Aurora’s cutter, and one or two of our fellows going with them.
The remainder of us pulled the launch back to the ship – and having shifted – three or four of us got a gig and pulled back to the Aurora’s cutter, took some ladies on board and joined the serenading party which consisted of some 20–30 boats decorated and lit up with Chinese lanterns, one boat containing a band.
The boats having formed into some sort of order, began pulling round the fleet – beginning at the flag ship, which ship, followed by the others manned their riggings, nettings etc. and kept up a continual cheer; the serenading band playing.
It was a very pretty sight, the sea being like glass, with a clear sky and bright moon and the boats putting about covered with coloured lights.
Having pulled round the fleet – the party proceeded to serenade the flag ship, the boats surrounding her and band playing. The rigging was thick with the men, as well as the nettings and spars – and they gave the party three such cheers, as only English sailors can give and then kept up a continual cheering with clapping of hands. Blue lights were lit on board the ship and
leading boat of serenading party sent up rockets. The Admiral got cheered by the Spaniards, and he waved his cap etc. The poop was crowded with the officers.
The ladies of one little party wanted very much to see the Admiral, so we pulled close up under the stern, and pointed him out The little Countess got up and followed by the other ladies gave him three “Nias”, and waved their handkerchiefs etc. etc. The Admiral acknowledged their courtesy in a polite manner that he always does – and then the serenading party throwing up some more rockets, went to the next ship Endymion and the same cheering, blue lights at trucks etc. went on – and we following the other boats, serenaded all the ships in turn, finishing up by the little Helicon, which cheered with her small crew in a most gallant manner, and burnt blue lights.
Rougemont and some of the officers, who were on the bridge, asked us to come on board, which we did, and went below to the Wardroom, where we had playing on the piano – in which I did my little all – and the Countess then stood up very pluckily and gave us a song. She looked very charming.
After partaking of some refreshments and the Senoritas being decorated with ribbons of the Helicon, which we would not allow to be put over the L.W. ones, but round the throat etc. we departed and pulled them ashore, it being about 12.30 and had a painful parting on the jetty. We dragged ourselves away and looking on board the Aurora on our way, proceeded on board and turned in rather tired. So ended the Gun Room Officers picnic, which went off most successfully.
14 September – Saturday
Left Vigo Thursday last at 4 pm in company with the fleet leaving the Helicon behind to bring out letters and papers Monday next. We steamed out through a fog, which seemed rather prevalent this time of the year about these parts. Last night I had just dropped off to sleep when I was roused up by the unwelcome sounds of the bugle for night quarters. So I had to jump out and rig smartly, having quarters to report clear. Nine minutes and a half it took to clear away – eight being consumed in lashing up hammocks. It was done moderately smart – when one remembers that after a ten minutes warning, the ship from being in quite a quiet state, more than half her crew asleep, guns secured, magazines locked, is in perfect fighting trim and ready to fight an enemy at once.
I don’t think that the English Navy can be touched as regards smartness by any other foreign marine – and it is to the Navy that England must look not only for safety, but actually for subsistence, for if her communications were cut off – I’m afraid she would be in a terrible state – shot with revolution and panic. She is like a ship provisioned for a certain time and no longer and requires constant replenishing, as my father so aptly expressed it, at the Merchant Taylor’s banquet.
The first time that I have seen a Court Martial take place at sea happened this morning. Aurora firing a gun and hoisting Jack. At 8 am Ships closed round us.
17 September – Tuesday
We have been drifting about off Cape Finisterre for the last two days, in the midst of fogs etc., changed by a slight blow on Sunday, which put us under treble reefs in the topsails. Last night kept the Middle watch, in the middle of a thick fog. We closed very near the Aurora, in fact so close that although we could not be more than two ships’ length off, we could not see her at all, but I could hear persons speaking on board of her, quite plain. We did not see the Helicon yesterday, when we were to have met her, for we were much too far to the Southward, so, we are steaming on an extended front up to the Northward.
ARRIVE VIGO
19 September – Thursday
We came in yesterday afternoon, having met the Helicon off Finisterre yesterday morning about 4 pm and I got my letters from Home and read them at 4.30. by moonlight – also got a letter from Grogan who wrote very nicely. Heard of Harry’s getting a nomination as Queen’s Cadet – and of Meta’s asking My Lords so gallantly for her brother’s promotion.
As soon as we communicated with Helicon we turned round for Vigo, and anchored in capital order about 5 pm – finding Invincible in here. She is like a troopship and in my opinion not nearly so nice looking as the Swiftsure. Heard of Borlase’s death, which promotes Dacres and some sub. This forenoon met several old shipmates from Invincible. Afternoon landed with Graves for a walk and did not get more than half-a-mile out, when we fetched to upon the railway embankment and had some fun with the navvies. Met Sholto Douglas and then walked in. Dined with Haran, Staff-Surgeon of the Invincible. Met Le Cocq and one or two others. They do not keep an over good mess, (although it is not for me to say so). Came on board early. Found immense excitement, among the subs as to who was to get it – but the Nipper seemed the favourite, betting being even on him, made a few myself.
Next day lunched with Haran and then went over the ship. She is dreadfully cramped on the upper deck – no room for the ropes to be worked – ropes of mainmast coming down into upper deck battery and obliged to be worked through doors – great height between decks – main and lower deck – ship well ventilated – good accommodation for sick – good cabins etc.
DEPART VIGO
21 September – at sea – Saturday
This morning the long looked for telegram arrived saying that Borlase’s death gave a death vacancy. Dacres and Napier got it. I must confess that I was rather disgusted after all that the Admiral had said. Anson and I went ashore and had a stroll. I called on the Countess de Villapanes [?] and paid them a visit. Found them all in dishabille, however I made them understand what I wanted. The Senorita looked so charming.
Came on board and found that Prothero and I were made Acting Lieuts. Paget going to the Swiftsure, vice Cleveland who goes to the Excellent. I, vice Paget.
Any amount of officer’s crews pulling about.
Whilst looking out for Graves – saw the Countess and her party coming alongside and my agony can well be imagined, at not being able to take off my hat. Fortunately I was relieved, and then Perry and I went into their boat and stayed with them for about an hour. She gave me her address at Madrid and promised to send me her photograph and write me for I had given her my photograph the preceding evening, when in Admiral’s cabin. The terrible parting – I can’t describe it – may such partings come but rarely – however we parted, and the fleet got under weigh about 4 pm and I kept the 6 to 8 watch, with the second stripe on.
How lucky some fellows are – Dacres promoted – Commander at 4 and 20 – Napier 146 junior to me, jumping over 300 and odd. Dame Fortune – turn thy wheel and shower fortunes on me!
24 September – Tuesday
Off Lisbon, having just rejoined the fleet. We had fair winds from Vigo down to the Rock of Lisbon, running down under all possible sail, trying the Invincible and Swiftsure, and brought to the wind, on the port tack yesterday evening. Had the pleasure of wearing the ship in the Middle watch, we went round very well – with the exception of the fore top-bowline, which the Capt. of night heads did not let go and carried away the pendant. Lucky it was no worse.
The Admiral struck his flag this morning and went on board Invincible, hoisting it there. We parted company and made for the Golden Tagus – and anchored opposite the packet stairs.
Our motive for going in was to land a couple of men at the hospital. I, having the 4–6 watch, landed with several other fellows – and we got on top of a bus and landed at the Rue di Ouro, made for the rolling motion square and then, having made Denison walk on it, to satisfy his curiosity, went up to the Rue di Chiado – and did some shopping there. I had my hair cut at the French barber’s there, who did not do it badly. Missing the other fellows made towards the stairs. Secretary picked me up and gave me a lift in carriage and boat on board.
Tripped to anchor at 4 pm. It got across our ram, and gave some little trouble clearing it. Made sail to double reefed topsails and top-glt. sail, but soon took in the upper sails – for it was blowing very fresh. Our weather clew of fore topsail went, (the rope of clew) and we had to shift topsail – (hauling in brace and buntered, soon got sail in hand). Picked up the fleet at 9 pm. and our worthy chief came on board and had dinner, and it is to be hoped he made a good one.
26 September – Thursday
Yesterday my charming cousin was married, after an engagement of a year’s standing. Meta was to be one of the bridesmaids so I hope that she will send me a long account of it. To-day is my mother’s birthday and I drink her health at dinner to-night, although in that unsociable fluid – cold water. The Swiftsure went into Lisbon yesterday morning to land a couple of scarlatina cases and rejoined this morning off Cape St. Vincent, the fleet having run down to it yesterday under sail. We have been firing all this forenoon.
29 September – Sunday
Slight breeze on the beam, heavy swell – ship rolling. Instead of the Revd J. B. we had the Revd Smith this morning – not an over good exchange in my opinion. A drawling, weak, nerveless voice, for a manly decisive one, that J B had. This is the first Sunday in this month, that I have been able to attend service – having been on duty the others. Invincible, Swiftsure, and Helicon left yesterday for Gibraltar, leaving a squadron of only five ships. Sent a letter in by the Helicon to my Father – telling him of my acting vacancy, but I don’t think that he will be able to get any-thing out of it for me.
2 October – Tuesday
Steaming through the gut and about ten miles from Gibraltar, we shall probably get there about 5 pm.
Last Monday, there was a large dinner in the Gun-Room, in honour of Dacres having got his promotion. Six W.R. officers attending. It went off most successfully. Paul proposed Dacres’ health and he responded in a short manly speech – and we drank to our future Admiral Dacres, which will make the seventh in succession.
This morning there being a good Easterly breeze blowing through. We left the two frigates Aurora and Endymion to beat up. Helicon met us off Tarifa with letters – and the P & O mail outward bound passed us about an hour ago. Lord Walter Kerr, being seen on the paddle box, I could not make out either Hamilton or Blackburne – so I trust neither have come.
ARRIVE GIBRALTAR
7 October – Monday
Half my hopes are dashed to the ground, and the other half not, for we found Lord Walter and Hamilton all ready to come on board so I had to leave my cabin, but not give up the stripe.
12 October – Saturday
Hauled out from the mole after completing our coaling and anchored off the head of the Mole.
Monday – Went to the Gilbards, had lunch there, and then went out riding. Rode to cricket ground there being a match on Garrison v. Navy – found the latter winning. Then went on to the sands, and had a most exhilarating gallop.
Dined that evening with Capt. Douglas of Aurora, and nearly cut my mouth to piece on glass that was in some chutney. Pritchard and a marine officer called Sharp dining there too. Next day I was on duty and had a most fatiguing forenoon of it – all the Captains and Commanders of fleet coming on board.
The Mail having arrived brought out Blackburne, Commander of Swiftsure – so off comes my second stripe. I shocked the Commodore most dreadfully standing in the gangway – Officer of Watch looking through my glass – at the cutter coming on board and seeing a moderately old gentleman in stern sheets. I said to myself in a sotto voce, “I wonder who that old buster is”? I heard a reproachful voice at my ear say, “That old buster is Sir John Hay Minister etc., etc.” – and looking round, I saw old Phillimore looking at me like a dying duck in a thunderstorm. I could hardly contain my laughter.
That afternoon I took my second stripe off and joined the den again.
Endymion and Aurora both went out – for England. I sent home letters by both.
Next day Wednesday and the forenoon of the following day, Thursday, I was away at Victualling yard, hoisting stores out of lighters to Dockyard, and I hoisted 300 casks and 300 cases up in that time – and with 30 men only. Considering that most had to be hoisted by three separate cranes and rolled along and stowed, it was not bad work.
Thursday afternoon, I got leave and went ashore to the Gilbards, went out with my Uncle for a ride and had a splendid canter on the sands. Met Col and Miss Gordon and had a long chat with the latter. The former is a most eccentric character and keeps his daughter very close, however I asked them on board and they said that they would come, which they never did.
Friday (yesterday) I was in charge of a party of 30 men (10 from three ships) on board lighter, to try and raise a French barque sunk near our ship. We got the slings fast, but on heaving on them the foremost one came away – so we gave up the job, it being dark.
Last night I went to the Engineers’ theatricals, the Gilbards both acting – War to the Knife. They both did well – especially Gilbard. Room was quite full – Betsy Baker was then acted – and I must say Betsy (Mrs Buckle) looked very pretty and charming.
The Fleet, except the Research and Helicon (left behind), left the Bay this evening for Malaga under steam making sail, and stopping engines, when round Europa Point. Feel confoundedly disgusted with the state of the Mess, we require an energetic senior member at the head of affairs – for, although old P – is a very good fellow, he is not the right man in the right place.
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