HMS PENGUIN

[Composite screw sloop]

1888

FEB - SEPT 1888

AT TRINCOMALEE

27 February - Monday

Reverting back to the 22nd Wednesday, on which day I formally took command of HMS Penguin, and was busily engaged all that day taking papers and other things over from Captain Haygarth. He had left a very small stock of provisions, so I had to buy a large amount ashore at a more than fair price, as far as my pocket went.

That evening, Haygarth and I dined with the Ward Room Officers and the usual speeches were made. At 10.30 pm Haygarth left the ship, and at 11 pm I went out of harbour for Trincomalee.

The 23rd we were steaming 9 knots, and ship most uncomfortable, being so very lively and jumpy. I could neither read nor write in my cabin. On Friday 24th, we arrived at Trincomalee, and moored, finding the Euryalus here, but Admiral and Flag Captain up country.

A poor lad named Barry died on Friday evening at the sick quarters. I did not know he was so ill until, whilst mooring, the Doctor told me he was dangerously ill, which he should have done before. I had him removed to my cabin and ultimately to the Sick Quarters as his only chance of life. But the poor lad was too far gone and died at 10 pm the same evening. He was buried in the RC Church-yard, I attended as Chief Mourner and Band of Flagship attended. I thought the RC ceremonies so flippant and hollow, beside our Solemn Service.

Sunday. Morton, Chaplain of the Flagship, came and held the service, and I read voluntary prayers at 4 pm; only three men attended that evening.

Admiral returned and Flag Lieut sent off saying a room at Admiralty House was at my disposal, so Monday I took up my quarters at Admiralty House

Tuesday 28th. Admiral Sir Frederick Richards is a most reticent and reserved man. He hardly speaks to anyone, and Moore, Flag Captain, complained about want of confidence Admiral showed, but he is the same to everyone. I had a little conversation with him, but not much.

1 March - Thursday

Heard by mail from Lel and Lady Hall. I certainly missed the familiar old handwriting very much indeed; his letters always so terse and full of information. Intend trying to allot £15 a month home, which will enable me to put by enough for the girls until June 1890.

2 March - Friday

Ready for sea today. This evening I went to the Wesleyan Mission Room, Mr Restarick Minister taking the chair, and gave an address for ½ an hour on Gospel Temperance. I am thankful to say the room was full, about 150 there, including many soldiers and sailors and I never spoke better and endeavoured to be a good witness. Returned to Admiralty House - asked Colonel Clive if he would like a passage round to Colombo.

DEPART TRINCOMALEE

3 March - Saturday

Sailed this morning having said good bye to the Admiral who showed me the print of my dear father he had got; and sent down to my boat a bucket full of vegetables and flowers.

4 March - Sunday

Steaming along 8 knts.

I held Divine Service and read an interesting address on Nicodemus from Oxenden’s Portraits from the Bible; was very pleased to see how attentive the men were. Hymns sang very heartily, led by a concertina. After Evening Quarters I had short prayers ‘stand up’, many attended. Last night had a dinner party of six. Oliver did very well.

ARRIVE COLOMBO

5 March - Monday

Arrived at Colombo early this morning. Received mails. Glad to get a letter from E.D.

Called on Russian Captain Osteletsky, of Korietz, quite a new craft. Managed to screw a lot of particulars out of him regarding his craft, which is bound for Vladivostock.

At 5 pm Colonel Clive took me out to dine; called on General Lennox; dined at Clive’s; suffering from cold.

DEPART COLOMBO

6 March - Tuesday

Sailed for the Maldives, proceeding under steam.

7 March - Wednesday

Made sail this morning. In the evening exercised letting go the life buoy, tacking, wearing and heaving ship to. Ship turned about like a top.

ARRIVE MALDIVES

10 March - Saturday

Made the Maldives this morning. Just seeing the palm trees and very soon I found coral islands covered with palms all around one. At 1 pm passing through a channel anchored ship in 29 fm off Mali Island, the capital of the Maldive Islands, southernmost island of the Mali Atoll group; there being 22,000 islands in the several groups.

I was boarded by several officials who told me any amount of lies; and I sent word by one of the Wazirs or ADCs that I intended coming, if agreeable, to call on the Sultan at 4 pm. At 2 pm I landed with Mr Millett (clerk) and went to the Cutchery, where after waiting some time, the ADC said the Sultan was too sick to receive me. I found out from Ibrahim Didi that he saw the Sultan last night and he was quite well so I insisted in seeing His Highness. My only interpreter was Ali, the W.R. servant.

At seeing very little chance of getting the ADCs to take a message to His Highness, and not seeing any of the Ministers, I started for the Palace followed by the Wazirs and a crowd of natives. I entered the Palace court and then stopped at the inner porch, and told the Wazirs that I intended seeing the Sultan before leaving, though he were in bed.

Seeing I was determined to have my own way they went into the Sultan and returned saying he was on the WC. After waiting some time I was at last ushered in still followed by a crowd of natives, and stopping at the door of the inner apartment I was received by Mahomed Didi (Prime Minister) and others and then the Sultan came out, upon which I paid the usual compliments and then gave the Governor’s messages.

The Sultan, a young fellow of 25, is evidently only a puppet in the hands of his Ministers and looked an indolent and not over bright individual. The Sultan made an excuse that he was not well (this on a hint from one of the Wazirs) and retired so we all adjourned to the Cutchery, this time all the Ministers being present; cigarettes and tea going round. We talked of business; viz. the Treaty, by which the Sultan recognised the suzerainty of Ceylon Government and then we had a chat about the exiles, they telling me that the exiles were well treated (a lie) and that Ibrahim Didi would be granted permission to depart for Ceylon. I then went to Ibrahim Didi’s house and heard all that he had to say. It appears that present Prime Minister is his nephew and I also had all the merchants and Indian traders before me. I then saw the ex-Sultan and at 7 pm came off, pretty tired.

Found a rumour prevalent that Russians were going to take Ceylon from the English, and gave it the lie. Ibrahim Didi came off at 9 pm to see me. I gave him a letter of protection - altogether affairs are a little mixed. Ibrahim Didi evidently means to get into power again if he can.

Marriage customs are peculiar. When a man has lived long enough with his wife he quietly puts her away and marries another; she can do the same, so sometimes the list mounts up to over a dozen. The young Sultan has put away three who are all remarried.

11 March - Sunday

The day my dear father was born, how well I remember two years ago sending him a telegraph. How pleased he was at getting it especially on receiving the General Service Pension of which he gave the first fruit to God.

Sailed this morning and steamed down through the Atolls. Very picturesque the numerous coral islands, with the villages nestling under the waving and graceful palms, the surf breaking in grand billows on the outer coral reef surrounding these islands.

At noon a sail reported on stbd Bow. As we approached within 5 miles we raised her hull, She had hammocks up drying, We soon made her out to be a Russian man of war. What was she doing down in these parts? Curious to say the least. I altered course towards her so as to pass within 2 miles, she lowered her hammocks and soon smoke appeared from her funnel. She was at anchor and her top gallant masts struck and evidently she had been there the day before, for fires were out and we noticed a red flag on a pole. Evidently on one of the reefs.

I compared her carefully with the photographs of Russian ships and made her out to be the Vyestnik that was at Colombo three weeks ago. They had told our officers that she was going straight to Aden. What has she been doing? My impression is that she has been on the lookout to annex a coaling station, and it must have been an unwelcome surprise our bowling her out. At 4 pm, from the mastheads, we made out her steaming to northward. Mr Millet, clerk, dined with me this evening, and afterwards we had a nice chat together.

DEPART MALDIVES

14 March - Wednesday

Made sail this morning, but wind failing, am drawing fires forward again. It is so much pleasanter sailing, cooler, and one has not that monotonous and continual thump of the screw always going on.

ARRIVE SEYCHELLES

20 March - Tuesday

Sunday afternoon made Denis Island, laid to off it at 4 pm and piped Hands to Bathe, got sail over and am glad I did as whilst bathing a shark came cruising along the opposite side. I called everyone in.

At 2 am Monday steamed over for Mahe Island and at 7 am arrived in the outer anchorage, but not having a Bill of Health - as my Medical Officer should have got one at Colombo - we were placed in Quarantine. I wrote to Mr Barkly, the Chief Commissioner, asking him to get us released, which he did that evening and we proceeded into the Inner Harbour, not taking a Pilot, One has to be very careful as reefs are numerous and the Inner Harbour is small, though once inside, very snug.

Called on the Ch. Comm. and dined quietly with them both. He has not long come from the Falkland Islands where he saw a lot of Kennedy and told me a good deal about him. Barkly is v. anxious to return there. His father was Sir Henry Barkly, Governor of Cape Colony for some time; Mrs Barkly, being the daughter of a former Bishop of Mauritius. We had a theological argument after dinner, he maintaining that religious men did not face death in battle as well as reckless men. I differed and said a truly religious man did.

Whilst out walking met the Bishop of Mauritius and his wife and this morning heard from him asking me to accompany him down the coast in a boat 12 miles. I declined.

We find it very hot here, little or no wind at this time of year. It is a picturesque place being high land well clothed with green, but not so thickly covered as the West Indian Islands are; rock is volcanic.

Barkly told me the French men of war are always here and that during the Madagascar business had one always up, ready to seize it.

This morning I paid a visit to a Whaling vessel, Diamentina. The 2nd Mate, a very intelligent Bermudian negro, showed me all the whaling implements and gave me a lot of information. The Sperm Whales cruise round Mauritius, Bourbon and Seychelles and other banks following their feed. They are not so plentiful as they were 4 years ago on account of being overfished, but they still go out and get some. A large Sperm has 40 to 50 barrels of oil in its head, which increases to 80 by boiling and his blubber gives up another 60 or so. They are very affectionate and if a young one is harpooned, the whole school of whales wait and hang about. The large ones remain 60 to 80 ft under water, and about one and a half above water. They shoot explosive into them sometimes, besides harpooning them. They tow boats sometimes 3 miles an hour, but rarely show any fight.

24 March - Saturday

On Tuesday last I dined with Dr Brooks at Mahe, Seychelles, meeting the Bishop of Mauritius and Chief Commissioner Barkly, with the ladies. I took in Miss Royston, the Bishop’s daughter, and found her nice a quiet girl, not very much to say for herself. We sat for 2½ hours in a very hot room with no punkah and then adjourned to verandah. The next morning I had a severe attack of diarrhoea having received a chill the previous evening and I was completely laid up all Wed and Thur, with diarrhoea and vomiting, unable to keep anything down and am now only just getting over it. I am very much pulled down.

On Thursday evening a Temperance Meeting was to have been held, got up by the Bishop, the CC taking the chair and I giving the address, but on account of my being ill it was put off.

At the dinner given by Dr Brooks we had a most interesting conversation on General Gordon. Barkly and the Bishop knew him very well and have corresponded with him often. Barkly, a man who does not believe in prayer, said he thought Gordon was very brave with a Great idea of himself, vain, very capricious and at times cruel and also had most extraordinary ideas on some things. Utterly unsuited to work with other people, but suited to lead and mould uncivilised races. The Bishop said he was at times capricious but so unselfish, by no means vain and a thorough believer in prayer, and a bit of a fatalist, always ready to help anyone, and had peculiar ideas on the Eucharist. They also mentioned Gordon’s reasons for thinking Praslin Island was originally the Garden of Eden and the Coco de Mer the forbidden fruit.

On Friday yesterday I embarked the Bishop, Mrs Royston and daughter and took them over to Praslin Island for which they were most grateful. The deacon of the C of E in the island came off. A true Creole and agent for Miss Weston and after landing them I proceeded to Zanzibar.

DEPART SEYCHELLES

25 March - Sunday

Derived much comfort from reading the last two sections of VI of Romans v.7 to end. So exactly my experience.

ARRIVE ZANZIBAR

31 March - Saturday

Zanzibar - Arrived here yesterday and found Mariner in. German Nautilus and Italian xxx. The Garnet is away cruising. Dined with Arbuthnott, heard the news of the late Sultan having died on Monday the 26th from consumption. He had gone to Muscat in one of his ships for a change of air but returned on Mon 26th and died a few hours after landing.

General Mathews managed everything very well, at once took charge and sent for the Sultan’s brother and told him he was Sultan. At first he thought it was a plan for getting him into the town and locking him up, but at last he came and was recognised by the English and German Consul Generals as had been previously arranged. There was no row as is usually the case on the demise of a Sultan and everyone is loud in praises of Mathews’ arrangements and quietness in carrying them out.

This morning I called on the German and Italian Commanders and had a long talk with the latter on the coming war, which however I hope may not break out. I then called on Col Euan Smith our Consul General and then on the German Consul General. The former told me he had written to Lord Salisbury saying how well Mathews has done. I then went to Mathews, who was delighted to see me, he and I being very old friends, having entered the Service together; and he told me to use his house as my own. We had a long chat over everything, and he told me that yesterday some 20,000 Arabs had come into the town from along the coast all ready for anything. He marched his troops out and had ammunition ready, but managed to clear them off from the front of the Palace, without bloodshed.

He told me that if the German and English Governments had not decided on putting the brother on the throne, he had intended putting the son, a lad of 15. The late Sultan he told me was a man of great character and firmness and that he refused, a month ago, (though bullied by the Germans) ill as he was, to sign a treaty they wished him to, unless he was forced to do so by a Squadron coming down. The Germans want to rent all the coast line from him, they taking the Customs.

The new Sultan has sent all the late Sultan’s Hareem about their business with the exception of about half a dozen. The remainder, 80 or 90 Georgians and Circassians, however were soon snapped up by the Arab sheiks about - this is the yarn flying about - some say on the other hand, that he has left them half their old quarters and put his Hareem into the other half.

1 April (Easter Day)

Last night I had a small dinner party. Arbuthnott, Kay and Stanhope.

This morning I landed at 8 am and walked to the English Church, found the Swahili Service was going on. The interior of the church was very little different to that of an RC church: 6 large and 8 small candles alight on the Communion Table at one side. I remained to take the Communion at the English Service and was much surprised and taken aback at receiving a wafer instead of a piece of bread and something was put into the wine. I did not like it at all, it smacked too much of papal superstition. I am afraid that the University Mission is very extreme and that the tendency of all this high ritual is to wrap up the life giving kernel with a gorgeous and sensuous covering, pleasing to the eye and ear, but alas! tending to make poor mortals go about seeking to establish their own righteousness as the Jews did of old.

The Garnet arrived in this afternoon and on reporting myself to Jenkings, he told me my cruising ground was the South part of the Zanzibar Channel. They have captured several Dhows. One last Thursday showed fight and kept it up with one of their boats for 2 hours. At last they were caught after three Arabs had been killed and one drowned - unfortunately in the fight, one slave killed and 4 wounded.

2 April - Monday

Landed to see how matters were put through the Consular Court.

We all lunched with Consul General. We were talking of slaves and I heard how eunuchs were made. It appears a clean sweep is made of everything and they sit in the sand as high as their waist until the bleeding stops; needless to say the mortality is very high, about 70% dying. The operation is generally performed on Nubian boys of 12 or thereabouts. Eunuchs generally are either fat, or, long and thin. No hair on their face and squeaky voice.

6 April - Friday

Last night I dined with Arbuthnot, and met Col Euan Smith, Major MacDonald, Captains Jenkings, Berkeley and Warren and also Captain of Italian man of war. In the middle of the dinner Churchill, Vice Consul came off and Euan Smith and MacDonald had a long confab. It appears that the German Consul General had sent to the Sultan to say that unless he signed the treaty they wished, no Germans would attend the Levée. This put the Sultan and General Mathews in a great state of mind as they thought perhaps the Emperor or Bismarck had telegraphed out to this purport. However Euan Smith and I quite agreed with him (in talking the matter over) that it was a very unlikely thing for either of these two magnates to have done. Col Smith advised the Sultan to stand firm, which he did, with the result that the German Consul General made some lame excuse and they all went this

On ascending the stairs, were presented to and shook hands with the Sultan, who to my mind has not half the character in his face old Burgash had. As usual, we all sat down in chairs one side, about 60 to 70 Englishmen being there, and the Royal Family and Arab Chiefs on the other, and had coffee, sherbet and Attar of Roses served out. Col Smith through interpreter, made all kinds of complimentary speeches ending up with some mild advice, and after about half an hour we departed and the Germans came and then the other nationalities.

2 pm. I sailed and dropped two boats off Kwale for cruising. Anchored off Kundichi for the night.

ON PATROL - MAFIA CHANNEL

7 April - Saturday

Started at 5 am this morning and arrived at Mafia off Tirene at 6 pm, having passed through numberless reefs on my way and nearly getting ashore on one. Boarded several Dhows with no result. Landed two interpreters to find out any news.

8 April - Sunday

No concertina this morning for the service, so I had to do Presenter.

9 April - Monday

The Interpreter only returned and from what I can gather the other chap has gone on the .. [?]. It is most provoking waiting here doing nothing. Nothing going on here in the way of slaving, though ten days ago a Dhow left with 20 slaves for Zanzibar.

11 April - Wednesday

Yesterday the Interpreter returned. It appears the poor old chap has had nothing to eat since he left the ship, having no money he could not pay for a guide and lost his way.

I detached Mr Job with Galley and Gig for a three day’s cruise in South Mafia Channel.

Whilst at church the other day the Arabs who sent off 20 slaves, ten days ago, sailed past us with 7 more on board, but I expect they were domestic slaves and probably would not wish to be released.

This morning I up anchor and when in the midst of the reefs a heavy squall of rain and thick weather came on. However it eventually cleared off and I came round to North Mafia so as to be 20 miles from Boats, and out of sight. Landed at 4 pm with Stanhope (1st Lt), Kay (Pay) and McAdam (Dr), at Barakuni Island and a fusillade commenced. At 6 pm we came off with a large bag of wood pigeon and ring dove.

15 April - Sunday

On Friday, Boats returned having had rather a bad time from the wind and rain. That evening I started from Tirene for Zanzibar and a precious nasty night it was, raining and heavy squalls of wind at times. I remained on deck most of the night as ship was running through comparatively narrow channels and one had no idea as to what current there might be.

Saturday morning, found ourselves soundings, somewhere in the Zanzibar Channel, about 20 miles further up than we reckoned. At last Pungume showed up and I anchored.

At 4 pm Hibbert returned and reported he had detained two Dhows, which it appears are the two that left Mafia with an Arab and 30 of his domestics, that I heard of at Mafia. One containing the Arab’s wife and 6 slaves, which left Tirene, right under my nose just as I was going to church; and I remembered I was nearly lowering a boat to board her, but thinking it a pity to disturb the men, I did not do so.

17 April - Tuesday

Our two cases came on this day and has gone against us, and I am rather glad of it for I do not think we had a good case. The facts being that an Arab was moving all his goods and chattels from Mafia to Zanzibar, and these domestic slaves had been with him, or his family for a long time. Though five girls and one boy said they wanted to be free, they said they were well treated but did not want to go to Zanzibar. On cross examination by Berkeley, Consular Judge, they did not tell the same story and could not prove, poor ignorant creatures, that they were coming over under compulsion, so did not come under the treaty requirements. The four girls that said they were free and that I refused to land ashore simply to be snatched up by the first man coming along, were also proved to be domestic slaves of Rana Bin Sadis, mother-in-law, so they were given up.

18 April - Wednesday

Sent Hibbert in Cutter, with Whaler to Mkokotoni to try his luck.

19 April - Thursday

Sailed this morning and steered down for Mbwamaji. On nearing the Sinda Islands, I saw two small Dhows running in for the shore, I told the Signalman to keep his glass on them, though I did not think there was anything suspicious about them. But on their running their Dhows ashore and a lot of people getting out, about 20 from each Dhow, and running as hard as they could into the bush, my suspicions were confirmed and I lowered my boats and gave chase. But having a 1½ miles to pull, by the time they got ashore the slaves and their owners had all disappeared in the thick bush, and though I had several parties out scouring the thick bush, they could not overtake them, but picked up a lot of gear dropped on the way. I found the Dhows completely gutted, and one half full water, through a hole having been bored through the bottom. Towed them both off to ship.

20 April - Friday

Sent Mr Job away in the Steam Pinnace to Dhow Harbour but he returned at 1 am having failed to reach it on account of swell and reefs. Sailed for Zanzibar towing both Dhows having first searched bush and villages for slaves, but at 1 pm gave it up, though I believe they are hidden in Mbwamaji village.

Arrived at Zanzibar 6 30 pm.

AT ZANZIBAR

21 April - Saturday

Two Dhows condemned this morning, their size given in as 43 and 23 tons. Signed it, my conscience telling me something was wrong. It meant £360, my share being £36.

I embarked Col Euan Smith (who is seedy) for a cruise. On my way down to Dar es Salam I sent for Lt Davenport and the carpenter and found out they had measured the Dhows in a wrong way, I am afraid on purpose, though I had given strict orders about it. On looking at their dimensions they came to 20 and 11 tons instead of 45 and 20, representing £170 instead of £360. I must have it altered.

Sailed for Dar es Salam at 11 am, which place I reached at 4 pm: went up the river with Col and some of the officers to look for Hippopotami, but the Germans located here have frightened them away.

Dined in the Ward Room. Euan Smith told some very amusing stories. One about the Military representative of America, who at the Delhi manoeuvres, being asked by Sir F. Roberts if he had had a good ride, said “Well I guess General my horse has been playing cup and ball with me all day and missed me seven times.”

It appears one of the Russian representatives at the Delhi manoeuvres at review, being clothed in a silver cuirass (the 14th different uniform he had put on during manoeuvres), it shone so much that the horse he was going to mount threw up its head and knocked him down; upon which he would not go to the review. The natives said at once it was good omen for the English Raj and that the Russians would never take India. Sir F. Roberts, Col S. said, was pleased at the occurrence.

AT DAR ES SALAM

22 April - Sunday

Spent the day quietly at anchor. The Wali of Dar es Salem has sent some soldiers to Mbwamaji to get slaves, or, send chief to Zanzibar.

23 April - Monday

Dar Es Salam this morning, and looking in at Zanzibar dropped Col Euan Smith, as he is by no means well, suffering from a bad liver. On to Mkokotoni Bay, and found Hibbert had captured a Dhow this morning. She had run ashore, and about 25 slaves ran ashore, of whom 7 were captured, but the rest could not be found, though the bush was well searched. Intend towing Dhow back tomorrow.

AT ZANZIBAR AND ON LOCAL PATROL

24 April - Tuesday

Returned to Zanzibar, put Dhow into Court and had her condemned, the released slaves going up to Mombasa with Rev Price for the Mission.

Arbuthnot received telegram from Admiral ordering him to Aden. Griffon is coming down here.

Dreadful attack of influenza cold.

26 April - Thursday

Sailed this afternoon and anchored at Mkokotoni for the night. Mariner joined at 9 pm with Col Euan Smith on board.

27 April - Friday

Sailed from Mkokotoni this morning and arrived at Pemba, 11 am, going through the Uvinje Gap in the reefs. It being dead low water, the reefs were easily made out.

29 April - Sunday

Got underway this morning, much against my will, having embarked Col Euan Smith, who is most anxious to arrive at Zanzibar tomorrow morning. The Mariner also weighed the same time, and proceeded to Aden. We made the usual complimentary signals to each other. I am sorry to lose Arbuthnot from this part of the station as he is such a good fellow.

I left Hibbert and Mr Job behind with four boats and arrived at Mkokotoni this evening.

30 April - Monday

Arrived at Zanzibar 10 am.

1 May - Tuesday

Having called for the Quarterly Statement of Canteen Committee, find a serious loss of 560 Rupees. I ordered some officers to investigate it, and from the result of their investigations, fear the Master At Arms, the Manager, has been guilty of embezzlement.

This afternoon went out for a long ride with Col Euan Smith. Before going out he showed me a long letter Dr Emin Pasha had written from Lake Albert, six months ago. It had taken five months to get to Lake Victoria and 1 month from thence to this place, arriving last night. He writes in a small hand and seems most active; hopes to have Stanley with him by Xmas, though he could not get any news of him. Is at peace with neighbouring chiefs and says Mwanga, who murdered Hannington, is intoxicated with power (I believe he is a great drunkard).

He (Emin Pasha) was just crossing Albert Lake in a steamer to search for some flora he had heard of, and had built some more boats. He also enclosed an original letter from the Mahdi, sent to one of his Lieutenants, informing him of the capture of Khartoum and Gordon’s death, saying Gordon, if he had become a Mahomedan, might have been saved.

Emin Pasha’s letter is directed to Sir John Kirk and is not very long, signed Dr Emin Pasha.

Mahdi says Khartoum was taken on a date which corresponds to 29 Jan ‘85. Col Smith also heard of the death of Bishop Parker [?] and Revd xxx on the shores of Lake Victoria. I suppose from fever. They both belonged to the Church Missionary Society.

Col Smith thinks Gordon’s position, if he is still alive, is very precarious, he is a clergyman at Uganda that Mwanga has not murdered. Mwanga is supposed to have 100,000 soldiers and is a great drunkard.

Col Smith showed me a long telegram he has sent to The Times, and he told me his telegram to Government last night cost over 6000 Rupees.

The Sultan signed, more or less under compulsion, the concession to the Germans farming out the Customs for about 800 miles of coast to them.

Great numbers of slaves are on the coast awaiting embarkation and we hear the Arabs are getting great powers inland, and very threatening to the English Missions.

3 May - Thursday

Garnet returned. Her boats made four captures. In towing two of the Dhows back, one sank. She and the Mariner passed each other at sea.

6 May - Sunday

The day being rainy had service in my cabin.

8 May - Tuesday

Left Zanzibar for Mkokotoni where I left two boats for the day, cruising about myself and boarding Dhows, but met with no luck.

9 May - Wednesday

Programme same as yesterday.

10 May - Thursday

Arrived at Pemba this morning, two of the Garnet’s boats came alongside of me, one with Mr Blunt (Mid) in command. A very sharp intelligent young fellow, a water drinker. Mr Kennedy (Mid) reported his boat’s crew for getting drunk. I gave them a good wigging and fright. I went down inside the reefs to Funzi Island and picked up the Helena. Found Hibbert had caught one small Dhow of 12 tons, with 5 slaves who had been hiding in the bush for some time. I took them from motives of humanity but have told officers to use great discretion in receiving slaves, otherwise every slave who was a rogue or a thief would come down to the Boats. It is necessary to use great caution when you are stationed in a country where every labourer and servant is a slave.

ARRIVE MOMBASA

11 May - Friday

This morning, having provisioned my boats for a month, I left for Mombasa, getting here at 4 pm and anchored opposite town, a large sized one. The fort dates from 1635 and was built by the Portuguese.

I proceeded to Frere town on the opposite side of the river, the HQ of the C.M.S. They have a large estate extending 2 to 3 miles, and I was much struck with the very great cleanliness and neatness of the place and general happiness and contentment reigning everywhere.

2 May - Saturday

This morning Rev W Price and Morris came off to call. The latter had just come down from up country (the Tita Mission) where he had been blockaded 10 weeks in his house and only got food surreptitiously at night time, poisoned arrows being shot at the house.

This afternoon Mrs Burness and Miss Fitch came off to tea with me, the latter had a brother working up in the Masai country. He has been up there 2½ years by himself and is coming down here for a change. It is very evident to me that the missionaries at the up country stations literally go about with their lives in their hands.

The acting Wali of Mombasa asked Price if he had seen the new moon, for unless it had been seen by someone, Ramadan cannot commence. Price had not seen it, however I conclude someone has, as the Fort fired guns at sunset this evening.

I saw some of the warlike Masai in the town. They wear blue beads around their neck. There is lots of big game about and close to the town, in the shape of lions, buffaloes, hippos and panthers. A lion was killed in the middle of the settlement about two years ago and there are two on Mombasa Island (3 miles long) on which the town of the same name stands.

The island contains about 30,000 Arabs, Swahilis (Arab fathers and black mothers) and slaves.

The children of the settlement get engaged at age of 12 and marry comparatively young, they find it necessary to allow it. Miss Fitch told me she generally arranges their love affairs.

13 May - Sunday

This morning Ship’s Company went ashore to Frere Town for service, and a nice simple service we had.

The Mail came in and fired a gun during Service, I had the great pleasure of hearing from E.D, Lel and Buz. All well.

In the afternoon I went ashore and had communion at 4.30 service and then took a walk round the settlement with Mr Price and a coloured Clergyman, picking up a good deal of information.

The girls make all their own clothes and the boys also. They get engaged early and marry comparatively young. English is taught to those who are likely to turn out well. There are about 80 girls in the dormitory under Miss Fitch’s care and about the same number of boys under the care of Mr England, schoolmaster. The children come from all parts of the interior, the Masai country and Uganda.

I saw the two girls we caught at Mkokotoni. They looked very happy and contented and said that we treated them so well after the Arabs. At present they are little better than pagans - the young released slaves are first broken in here and then sent to Rabai and Shimba, some remaining and having Shambas given to them. The Swahili service (daily) is always well attended. One of our girls was asleep in her father’s Shamba when the Arabs stole her.

I was much pleased at seeing the Settlement. There is a very nice avenue of Bengal Gold Mohurs, introduced by Mr Price from India; and in the centre of the settlement is a large clear space, surrounded by shaded magnificent mango trees. The bell stands here for tolling to church and striking the time. I saw how the beer is made from the coco nut tree. A branch is cut and the end put into a calabash, secured to it, so the sap drains into it, and when full is taken down and allowed to ferment. The tree does not bear such a good crop of nuts in consequence.

14 May - Monday

This afternoon 150 children, boys and girls, came off to see the ship, all ages and sizes, a large number quite young. Price and Mrs Burness, Mr England and Morris came off with them. I got some men up and put them through rifle exercise firing blanks, and sent them round in parties of 10 to 15 in charge of seedie boys, and they roamed delightedly all over the ship.

After about an hour they all collected on the Quarterdeck and danced some Swahili dances and they sang so well some of Moody and Sanky’s hymns in Swahili, then some glees Three Blind Mice, and then by request some more Hymns, one being Oh how he loves me. Mr England told them that Isa was a great friend to me, and I hoped he was to them also.

It was such a great pleasure seeing all these children enjoying themselves, and my heart was full at hearing them sing of Isa when I remembered they had all been rescued from slavery by our cruisers. I gave some of them a few mementos in the shape of knives and scissors, and altogether I enjoyed it, I expect, as much as the children.

15 May - Tuesday

This morning at 5 am I left the ship in the Steam Pinnace and picking up the Rev Smith and Churchill at Frere Town, proceeded up the river (Rev Mr Jones, Coloured Minister accompanying us - the same who went up with Bishop Hannington) about 8 miles. We landed and walked over undulating country, gradually rising to about 800 ft, along a bridle path until we got to the large settlement of Rabai, so neatly laid out. It is situated in the Wanika Country, a very large settlement, large huts all standing apart with pretty roads running through it in every direction. It took over an hour walking about it; a very fine large church holding about 6 to 700 hundred when floor is packed close. I was pleased with Frere Town, but Rabai quite charmed me, so like in some ways life in an English village.

The settlement is largely composed of the Wanika tribe, many of the tribe building huts, who are not under or belong to the Church Missionary Society. The Wanikas are by no means of a black hue, being brown and very intelligent and bright looking. They rarely have rows and generally take most of their troubles to Mr Jones; the Elders settling secular difficulties. The girls and women only wear a kilt (pleated) with strings of beads around their waist, and broad bracelets around their legs and arms. Certainly their dress looks most picturesque, though scanty. After all it is quite as decent as many dresses worn in a London Ballroom.

I was much pleased at the intelligent features of the Wanika. Mr Jones has Service every morning and generally 2 to 3 hundred attend, sometimes more.

At 0930 he asked me if I would give an address in the church and at 1030 I went in to church and to my utter astonishment found the church full. About 200 men on one side and 60 women, or more, on the other side and I am afraid to say how many children sitting on mats down the centre.

Mr Jones opened the service and Hymns were sung in Swahili and then I spoke for a quarter of an hour on Jesus, what he is to me and to them. Mr Jones interpreting so quietly and so well, and I am thankful to say that God gave me wisdom and power to speak very earnestly. I shall never forget this meeting, so attentive, and singing so heartily. It was indeed a pleasure being there and my heart was full, and tears came into my eyes when the service finished up by Rock of Ages in Swahili, but the same familiar tune.

It was interesting seeing the congregation filing out, most of them had been working in the fields at 0930 - so it speaks for them very well turning up so quickly and in such full force. Many of the Wanikas were there in their kilts, one woman came up and said “I was told we should hear something good and we did, for we heard of Jesus.” I felt so thankful for being permitted to speak to so many.

Rabai is indeed a settlement for Mr Jones to be proud of. A good many of the Wanika have come to live in the settlement, conforming to the rules. Their weapons are a peculiar kind of sword and bow and arrow, the latter being poisoned, meaning certain death in 15 minutes. I purchased specimens of their arms.

The Masai seem to be a terror to everyone, the young bloods being most expert cattle lifters and cut throats. They kill women with the sharp butt end of their spears; and men and women pluck every hair out of their face and body. They are a very fine race physically.

The originating cause of the cruel death of the pages at King Mwanga’s Court was that one of the Christian pages had been told to commit a filthy action with a woman. On his refusing, he and the other native Christians had their arms cut off and then burned at the stake - see Bishops Hannington’s life.

DEPART MOMBASA

20 May - Sunday

Pemba. Arrived here the day before yesterday, picking up all my boats. Shifted berth yesterday morning as I found my stern swung over a patch which I should have touched at low water.

Five more runaway slaves. One of whom a woman, I gave up this morning to her master, an Arab, as after carefully going into her case, I could not find she had been badly treated. I first took securities from the Arab, making him swear on the Koran she would not be ill treated by his mother or wife from whom she had run away, but that she should be in his Harain.

AT ZANZIBAR AND ON LOCAL PATROL

26 May - Saturday

On Monday last I arrived at Zanzibar.

Thursday we kept the Queen’s birthday with all the honours. Euan Smith gave a big dinner and made two very nice little speeches in proposing the Queen’s and Sultan’s health. General Willoughby of the Malagasian Army dined there. He is a tall well made powerful man of about 45, I should say, talks big and is a regular adventurer. After dinner, he with some others, went steeple chasing over sticks, lifting each other and performing various tricks, some very good. He thought to take Kay “out for a walk” but Kay was too much for him, so he made him a confederate at the end of the evening. He told Kay he should not forget his name, and said “I think we must be something like each other in disposition.” A delightful compliment as Kay said to us.

Last Sunday the fisherman in whose huts the slaves were found, came alongside at 9 pm with his wife and two children and said his owner an Arab had sworn to shoot him for giving information to the Englishmen, and begged me to take him away and land him anywhere. So I whipped him, his family and canoe on board and brought them down to Zanzibar, not making the least doubt that Euan Smith would give him free papers. In this I was mistaken, Euan Smith being so anxious to stand in well with the Arabs, makes difficulties. However my honour is pledged, so I wrote a very strong letter about the case and mean to see it through.

The Sultan interviewed the fisherman this afternoon and sent word to Euan Smith he could do what he liked with him. I am very dissatisfied with Euan Smith. He is too anxious to be everything to everyone, as is the Sultan at present.

The men who fired on the Garnet’s boat some six weeks ago were seen by Mr Blunt (Mid) in the Dhows up at Pemba, and on the prison here being searched, it was found that the whole lot had got out. The Sultan, they say, was furious and has sent up to Pemba for them. We shall see if they are caught. None of the slaves at Mbwamaji, or Mkokotoni have been brought in yet, nor are likely to be.

29 May - Tuesday

Last night Jenkings gave a big dinner to English and German Consul General, and Von Horen who is being invalided from the Nautilus. Euan Smith told me he had decided to give the fisherman free papers. I am glad he has, for I was determined to fight it out.

1 May - Thursday

Yesterday, Dutch corvette came in from Natal, Captain of which has come to make a Treaty with the Sultan. Sometimes I find the times go very slowly, especially the evenings and in fact get homesick at times.

I rode out yesterday to the Mission at Umbweni and met Archdeacon and Mrs Hodgson. I was pleased with what I saw. All the Mission people mess together and everything being found, as they only get £20 a year each. Their quarters look very bleak and dreary looking.

2 June - Saturday

I sent my Interpreter to find out what had become of the runaway slaves. He saw them working with the slave gangs in the streets this morning, and spoke to them. They told him their case had not yet been investigated by anyone. On going ashore this morning I mentioned the fact to Colonel Euan Smith, who would not believe it at first, but eventually sent Salim, the head Interpreter, round to the Sultan.

Some of the Mandara tribe danced their war dance, in front of the Consulate, some of them dressed like Red Indians, feathers in their hair.

3 June - Sunday

Rain this morning. Cut my official service short, so after due consideration and earnest prayer I decided to hold a voluntary service in my cabin this afternoon at 5 pm, and am glad to say about 16 came aft.

4 June - Monday

Met Euan Smith out riding this afternoon, who got quite warm in talking about the slaves and his interpreter. However I stuck up for mine and before going off went into Agency and had a chat with him. I can see that I shall have to be very careful in this slave question, for many reasons, but I am determined to carry out my Instructions, endeavouring to do so with tact and discretion.

5 June - Tuesday

Salim and his friend Usuf were sent off by Euan Smith this morning for me to cross examine, which I did. Decided that my man Juma had seen the slaves working in chains. Salim saw them in the prison without chains and the slaves said they had not been in chains. The truth of it really is, as elicited after a long examination, that Juma saw them working in chains and spoke to them. The slaves on returning to the prison probably had their chains taken off, in which condition Salim saw them under the influence and presence of the Jemadar of prison. Naturally they said they had been well treated and not in chains, and Usuf told a lot of lies to Juma about it all.

6 June - Wednesday

This morning having anchored at Mkokotoni last night I passed Garnet on way back, her boats having captured 2 Dhows and 89 slaves. Made my mouth water, for I’d sooner capture 89 slaves than 89 Dhows. A great nuisance missing her, through these diplomats.

7 June - Thursday

Went up to Chati Chati with Berkeley and had an interview with the Wali, a very deaf old man. We had a great Durbar to hear complaints of Hindis and Sultan’s officials, against Hindis. The principal question to settle being that Hindis hire a Surree or slave concubine - she bears them a child - the Arab wants his slave back - Hindi refuses but offers to go on hiring her - Arab objects.

The Hindis have been told that they being British subjects render themselves liable to 7 years penal servitude for hiring slaves and arrangements are to be made at once for the Hindis to purchase the freedom of their concubines, the Wali seeing a fair price only is demanded, about 100 rupees.

It being Ramadan, in the middle of our interview with the Wali he asked if we would adjourn for an hour as he wished to say his prayers. I could not help thinking how many Christian officials would faint at the idea of saying such a thing publicly.

10 June - Sunday

Robbie’s wedding day two years ago. Married at Auckland.

Kay in my cabin, very bad from neuralgia this afternoon, so the voluntary evening service in cabin, for which I had gone to supper earlier, had to be put off and I tolled the bell to read prayers after evening quarters.

Not a soul came aft I am sorry to say. Bluejackets are just like children. I conclude that they imagined I had put it off, so as to have more time to get the boats ready for starting tomorrow morning. However I shall try next Sunday afternoon and trust some will come aft. If not, I must give them up.

11 June - Monday

Arrived at Zanzibar this afternoon. Walked ashore with Jenkings and saw the function and review in front of the Palace, it being the end of Ramadan. After numerous salutes, Mathews’ black soldiers went by, four bands, the Black, Egyptians, Persians and some other playing. Then the irregular troops came marching along, swordsmen prancing in front of the lines and guns going off promiscuously, to the danger of everyone.

The Garnet on going out for target practice a few days ago caught a Dhow with 48 slaves on board, becalmed, and so could not get away. The 89 she caught at Pemba were all packed in a small 12 ton Dhow and had been for five days.

13 June - Wednesday

Mail came in yesterday and I was delighted to get letters from home though I hear Buz has been “gated”, whatever that may be, for not attending chapel - and also I regret to say my Coffee House has not being doing so well as I could wish.

16 June - Saturday

Jenkings and I, after playing lawn tennis, went for a walk and found a poor woman on the ground crying and moaning. She had hurt her leg, though I could not determine what was the matter. However we managed to carry her a quarter of a mile and deposited her safely with some people in huts on Mathews’ Shamba. She was so heavy and fat, I did get hot, making heavy weather of it through the sandy lane.

17 June - Sunday

Rev Clark came off and gave us an excellent address and the Harmonium gave off its dulcet notes. I playing and the men sang very heartily.

After service I put on my war paint and proceeded on board the Nautilus for the funeral service for the late Emperor Frederick. One of the Lieutenants read the service, the men singing funeral hymns; and then the acting Captain gave an address respecting the fine character of the late man. At noon we all squared yards, which we had topped this morning, and the Garnet fired 21 guns in honour of the new Emperor. The German crew gave three cheers and colours were hoisted by our ships and the Germans. After the salute we lowered to half mast again, the Germans remaining right up. The German officers and men took the oath of fealty to the new Emperor and we all adjourned to the cabin and drank to his health. I doing so in soda water.

Clark at luncheon told me a good deal about the cruelty of the Arabs with regard to slaves. Clark asked a lot of questions from one of the boys that Garnet captured, amongst them being what he first recollected in his life. He could not remember his home, he had come from beyond Nyassa and been two years on the journey and had been given in charge of a slave woman in the caravan who had a baby. His first recollection of anything is, the women not being very strong, the Arab came up and said “You are not strong enough to have a baby” and taking it from her dashed its brains out, and on the women clinging to his sleeve, the Arab then said “You will never manage to get to the coast” and straight away put his sword through her.

Clark told me that the Arabs are very depraved, leaving women and taking boys about with them.

The 89 slaves caught by Garnet’s boats were packed in a 9 ton Dhow and had been five days in her packed like sardines. One man died, who had been lying exhausted at the bottom, his face half buried in the water and noisome excreta, though he had come onto the Dhow a strong man.

18 June - Monday

I paid a visit to Mbweni spending the day there with Archdeacon and Mrs Hodgson and enjoyed myself very much. Walked all over the Shamba and looked into the schools. I think there is too much of the Church running through everything, but I find it easy to criticise, so shall stop. No doubt the mission being a very High Church one, tends to prejudice it in my mind.

I had a conversation through the Archdeacon, with a very intelligent slave, one of the 89 Garnet caught. He said for five days they had not moved and one little girl who had tried to get to the gunwale to perform acts of nature, was struck so severely by the Arabs that she died. Two women died in the Dhow from exhaustion.

19 June - Tuesday

Garnet sailed. Found on arriving on board yesterday evening that only 63 tons of coal had been taken on board instead of 75 as I ordered, so had a row and ordered remainder to be taken in today.

20 June - Wednesday

Sailed at daylight this morning intending to go round by the South end of Pemba to Msuka Bay, but finding the sea much too heavy, up anchor and came round the West side, communicating with Mr Job in the Helena, on the way. He tells me that Blagdon has caught a Dhow. Until I’ve investigated the case feel sceptical as to Blagdon’s having a good case.

Anchored Msuka Bay. Much annoyed by Drum Fish making a great row under the stern, so ordered Quartermaster to frighten them away in order that I might get some sleep. Then the new kitten came round my cabin whining and I imagined every minute she was going to jump on me - how we let our imaginations run riot.

21 June - Thursday

Steamed 23 miles in Steam Cutter today, having a look round the place.

Cannot find Jim, my pet chameleon - cat is in my storeroom, too wild to be caught - sure I shall be woke up tonight.

23 June - Saturday

Left Msuka bay this morning and came down to Owens Channel picking up my boats. On examination found that Blagdon had missed two Dhows carrying slaves, through being too lazy to get underway in the middle of the night. Spoke very sharply to him.

Got underway and through Machine Prize Firing, and made a start for Mkokotoni, leaving two small boats behind only. Arrived at Mkokotoni 11 pm and seeing two Dhows at anchor sent Cutter away to board them, telling them to anchor and sleep for the night.

24 June - Sunday

Cutter got underway at 7 am to return to the ship and at 10 am I saw her suddenly running after a Dhow. Much annoyed at her not returning, I fired a gun to draw her attention to the recall. The gun being fired had the effect of making the Dhow lower her sail and very soon I saw a flag run up denoting she was a prize and on coming alongside found she had 34 raw slaves on board and 9 so called passengers, who were slave agents or dealers. It was interesting going into all the cases. I found some had come from Uganda and it appears all caravans rendezvous at Unyanyambe, the large Arab settlement three hours’ journey inland. Some of the slaves had been a long time coming down.