HMS AUDACIOUS

[Central battery ironclad]

1878

6 FEB - 21 JULY 1878

PASSAGE TO FAR EAST

6 February – Wednesday

Came down to Southampton by the 5 o’clock train, previous to which I called on Admiral Hood at Admiralty and thanked him for my appointment. Found Lord Gilford out. Came down with Mr Payter. Father and Francie came as far as Sittingbourne with me.

It cut me up a good deal saying goodbye to them, seeing my poor old father so overcome, for we have been like two brothers since my Mother’s death, sharing the same anxieties etc. However, it must be so.

7 February – Thursday

Slept at the South Western Hotel. Very comfortable; terms moderate. It is very convenient for railway and steamer.

Went on board the Pekin in the morning. A fine steamer, one of the finest steamers the P & O have. Found I had Primrose and Trower for my cabin mates. Primrose going to Malta for Bittern, and Trower for Bombay. Left the docks sharp at the time, a good number of people coming down to see their friends off. A great deal of handkerchieves waving, a little weeping and soon we are off steaming down the Solent, 12 knots. 97 First-class passengers, not a very full cargo.

10 February – Sunday

The last few days being slightly rough, the passengers have not all shewn out in full bloom, but today being fine has brought them out. We had a short service in Saloon.

We have about 20 for Malta and Gibraltar, a number being young soldiers of 42nd and 98th returning off leave. Munro, Park, Ld Kennedy, Elliot, MacLeod, Drummond of 42nd; Preston [?] and some others for 98th, amongst whom was Bradley, taking his young wife out with him, a very pretty little girl. Lord Torpichen of Rifles for Gib sent messages to his brother, Sandilands, a Lieut in Audacious; Capt. Mead for Modeste, Dr Lawrenson for Lock Hospital at Yokohama. Chief Justice March for Shanghai; the Lamb party for Sydney included Mr and Mrs Lamb, Miss Lamb and Miss Annie Lamb and two boys; the Murrays for Calcutta, Mrs Murray and Miss Ella and Ada Murray, and a great number of other passengers. Mr and Mrs Wallis for Madras – that went by the name of the Beauty and the Beast.

11 February – Monday

Fine weather. Passed close to Cape St Vincent.

AT GIBRALTAR

12 February – Tuesday

Arrived at Gibraltar (1150 miles) about 8 o’clock, the homeward bound steamer arriving the same time. The Rock looked very much about the same as it ever has.

Uncle George kindly sent a boat off for me, and I very soon, in company with others, found my way ashore. I found Lily and Ethel just going to start for a picnic to the Cork Woods, mounted on very nice little Bays. Uncle George just out for a hunt. Lily has gone down considerably in size and is getting very like her Mother in appearance. Ethel has grown tremendously and is only half a head shorter than I am. Got some cigarettes at the Rock – 10/– per 100. We left the Rock after a stay of three hours, and soon steamed into the Mediterranean.

Sat next Miss Dallas now at table and Johnny Primrose. Miss Dallas being a young lady on her way to India to her parents. She is a very nice little lassie. Primrose leaves at Malta.

AT MALTA

16 February – Saturday

Arrived at Malta; 980 miles from Gib, and 2130 miles from Portsmouth; entering Quarantine Harbour in the forenoon.

(I should mention, though, that last night (Friday) we got up a most effective Concert in aid of the funds of Merchant Orphans’ Home. Many of the ladies sang and played, a reel was danced. Then we cleared away and a dance was set going, I playing at the piano). I saw Andrew and Edward in a Dyco and as soon as we got Quarantine, Major Mackenzie, Uncle of Edward’s and Esme’s, and I went ashore with them. We all went to Meta’s House, and there heard all about the very ugly affair of Esme and Major Monson (some of which is at the end of my Journal).

We walked about the streets. All the shops were shut on account of a Requiem Service being held in memory of Pio Nono’s death. The streets were very full, as only streets at Valetta can be. Telegrams were more peaceful.

We all lunched at Andrew’s. Sybil has grown such a pretty little girl and Meta’s two boys still are the two finest lads I’ve seen. Met a great number of passengers, getting lace etc. and looking in at the Cathedral of St John’s. I did not manage to get a look, but I believe it was very highly got up in mourning drapery in respect of Pio Nono’s memory.

At 3 o’clock Major Mackenzie and I had to go on board and had a very affecting parting from them all. One felt so much at leaving them all in their troubles. Poor Meta looks by no means well. How blackguard it is of these saintly people gathering their skirts up and giving a cold shoulder to Meta and Edward, because they have nobly stuck to Andrew. Well, such is and always will be the world and the only friend that sticks to one, that one can turn to sure of a welcome, is to be found between the leaves of the good old Book.

Edward and Andrew evidently are deeply cut up and heart-broken by Esme’s conduct, to my mind much more so than Esme herself who talked to me about it and her chief anxiety seemed to be to know whether she was very famous or not. Another case of a beautiful woman making trouble through vanity and love of admiration.

Meta, Ned and Andrew came and saw us off and then returned ashore. Steaming out of harbour I ranged my telescope over the tops of the Hawser and soon spotted them all on the balcony and we waved to each other until the Fort shut us out from view.

TRANSIT OF SUEZ CANAL

21 February - Thursday

The run from Malta was done very quickly. very fine weather. Did not meet a single steamer. Our evenings were spent with music, singing and dancing, Miss Cox doing the singing principally. The irrepressible Bol was getting everything up. He began to get very obnoxious.

This morning I got up early and witnessed a beautiful sunrise. Found ourselves off Port Said (940 from Malta & 3070 from England). It was quite calm and the Arab fishing boats, with their tall white felucca sails shining under the rising sun, were very pretty.

Port Said is a hole, a low hole and yet a very vile hole. It stands on very low flat ground, nothing but sands all round. The entrance to the Canal is made by two long piers running out about a half mile from the entrance. On the right entering stands Port Said, full of the gambling houses and prostitute shops, and the scum of the earth inhabiting it. The only decent houses are those of the different Agencies.

We made fast to a couple of buoys opposite P Said, until the tide suited. The Pallas is anchored here. There is just room for a couple of steamers to pass, for steamers on the other side are laying across the canal and discharging cargo. Lots of Arabs on board selling figs etc.

At 8.30 we enter the Canal in the sand, having a French Pilot on board and steaming 4 knots. Low banks each side. On the right Lake Qantara and on our left, to our vision, an endless expanse of sand with mirage of sand hills showing. A very bright sunny day, but not unpleasantly warm.

We went along very smoothly and quietly, passing the stations about every ten miles or less perhaps. At these Stations are Gares, or cuttings, so that steamers can pass one another. There was little life to the seen. Now and then an Arab went by on his camel and one or two ran along the edge of the Canal quite close to the vessel picking up money and fruit thrown by the passengers. We stuck in the canal several times, the wind being astern made it difficult to steer the vessel, but we did not take long getting off and soon got out our small Brilliant cable and made fast to a post, these posts being stuck in the sand every 3 or 4 feet.

We could not manage to get to Ismailia that night, so we anchored in the Canal and it being a beautiful night we got up a dance, a farewell dance to the Bombay passengers who leave us at Suez. Willis, Captain in Hodson’s Horse, being our great dancing man. We had great fun, the best dance being the Corkscrew dance.

Next morning we arrived at Ismailia, on one of the lakes which has been deepened out considerably so that 7 or 8 steamers can turn round. Ismailia is not a large place. It is scattered and I should say it was a kind of watering place. The Khedive has a Palace here, but there are not many large houses to be seen. We found four steamers here and at 9 o’clock we passed on into the Canal again.

A very curious effect of the vessel passing through the water is, that commencing just abreast of her bow, the water rushes aft at the rate of four miles an hour and draws right off the bank, it seems to be drawn towards the counter and abreast our quarter. It is met by a baro that rushes along after us.

Colonel & Mrs Vernon lost their young baby this morning, not looking after it properly.

Arrived at the Bitter Lake (Great). We could steam the next 8 miles full speed. In crossing it, we passed the Messagerie steamer going the other way. Three more English steamers passed us, and one getting aground delayed us an hour or so, which ultimately prevented us getting out of the Canal that night also. So we ran her nose on the bank and let her remain for the night. We felt the tide here and listed over a bit.

22 February – Friday

Got up early this morning and found we were just entering the docks of Suez and very capacious ones they are too. I should think at least 16 large steamers could lay alongside and take in cargo. One of these large dredging machines was here. It struck me, the little dredging one saw going on, for with the exception of the two we saw close to Port Said, there were three others along the Canal. I should mention that yesterday afternoon we had a very heavy shower of rain, not unusual since the Canal has been opened, but that has [not?] occurred before the time of the Canal.

We were soon alongside, then began turning the Bombay passengers over to the Venetian.

Miss Cox received a telegram telling her to return to England. She got in a great state of mind, not knowing whether the young man she was going out to marry was dead or had broken off the engagement. But later on, she enquired at the Telegraph Office and they gave her the second part of the telegram, to say he was on his way home. The telegraph people said they did not think it concerned her.

A party was soon made up to ride up on donkeys to Suez. Mrs Bray, Mrs Christison and Miss Ada Murray, being the ladies, and King and I the gentlemen. As soon as we put our foot on shore we were surrounded by donkey boys – the boys being men, all clamouring to get up on their donkeys. At last we all mounted and started off, and arrived at Suez. The rascals wanted 2/– for each donkey, the fare being 6d. I stuck out and would not pay, although the din and row was terrific. I offered 1/3d, a rupee each, but no, they would not take it, so we set out through the town (not much), for the English Hotel.

To get through it, you are obliged to pass through the Bazaars, French, Arab and Turkish, very little difference to see between them. The Bazaar being narrow lanes, stalls each side and covered with all sorts of wares; a great deal of coloured cotton ware. The place was full of dusky Arabs and Egyptians, and we had some difficulty getting through the throng.

The Hotel is a very fair one and before purchasing anything, it is best to make enquiries at the Hotel. You can get some things there.

Mr and Mrs Kyse left us here for Cairo. They were getting rather a nuisance on board.

After reading telegrams and papers etc, we came back and had another grand row with the donkey men.

However, we got some more fellows to help us and started off and getting down to the steamer had yet another row. However, I was firm and would only give a rupee apiece.

At 2 o’c the Venetian went off, amid cheers etc. Willis waving a sheet. I lost my little friend, Miss Dallas. An hour afterwards we followed, and soon left Suez behind, steaming down the Gulf of Suez, 12 knots an hour, land both sides. Unfortunately we were hardly far enough ahead to see Mounts Horeb and Sinai. A rattling good breeze astern kept us cool.

That evening the Judge drew my attention to the Zodiacal Light, which I had never observed before. Made friends with the Murray party.

AT ADEN

27 February – Wednesday

Aden (1308 fr. Suez). (4378 fr. England). The passage through the Red Sea was not unpleasant owing to a good breeze all the time. The last day we had a stiff breeze against us, as we passed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb. High land on the port hand and the Island of Perim on our starboard hand. The Strait is not by any means wide, about 12 miles. We have a detachment on the Island, and a battery of guns. It must be dreadfully lonely living there only seeing the steamers pass.

Most of the way down the Red Sea we saw land one side or the other, principally the African side, sometimes passing quite close to Islands as the Red Sea is very well lighted up now, to what it used to be.

Occupied my time, working up gunnery and taking French lessons from Miss Ada Murray, who was very strict and had me ultimately in capital order by dint of throwing my books about when any skylarking began.

Arrived here early this morning and only staying a very short time. I did not go ashore, and as we anchored outside round the point, we did not see the town, but one could see what a fine bay and anchorage it was. Found the Diamond here, and shortly after leaving, we passed the Undaunted under all plain sail on her way to Aden. She looked very pretty, dipped our colours to her. Rooper will not have long to wait for her at Aden.

AT POINT DE GALLE

7 March – Thursday

(2134 fr. Aden) (6512 fr. England). Nothing occurred worthy of note, during our passage, excepting the heat began to get a nuisance 86 degrees at night. I got vaccinated after leaving Aden, as did Edgar, a tea man at Cachar.

On getting up this morning, found we were steaming into Point de Galle, and a beautiful scene it was, that presented itself to one’s view. A thoroughly tropical scene, the harbour is a small bay, thickly wooded with palms and tropical foliage to the water’s edge. On the left, you can see where the town is by seeing the white tops of some of the lofty bungalows and towers of the Churches and Mosques, peeping out from the top of the trees.

We find the Armide French Flagship on her way to China, and Australian Mail waiting. The China steamer does not come in until Saturday. We are soon surrounded by catamarans and boats.

We anchor head to seaward and haul our stern shorewards, by hawser made fast to buoys. There was not much swell on, but in the SW monsoon it must be very nasty work. Vessels are anchored in this manner on account of the swell.

Everyone is soon ashore and in about five minutes we are ashore. Galle is a good sized place and has fortification all round, built by the Dutch some 200 years ago, and like similar Indian forts, very substantially built. But now-a-days a gunboat with a good rifled gun could play “old Harry” with it all.

Through the archway of the old Fort, that is used now by the P & O for a Store-house, and also used as a Custom House and in appearance it looks intended for these purposes, we pass through an avenue of Palms, leaving a Guard House on our left (2 Coy. of English soldiers at Galle, 57th Reg.) and we arrive at the New Oriental Hotel, a fine large building with such a cool verandah. The Hotel is crowded with some 100 passengers and in front are gathered a hundred or more of the most motley crowd of half naked natives, you would wish to see. Offering to sell everything and asking tremendous prices, ten and twenty times the price, and many an unfortunate passenger is taken in.

Mackenzie, Edgar, Pelham and I made up a party and drove out in a trap to Wakwella, some 5 miles out. The road is very good. We gave our man an extra 1/– and made him pass the Murray party, nearly capsizing us so doing.

Lots of the juvenile Singalese escorted us out, offering beautiful bouquets of flowers etc. for an anna, just gathered at the side of the road and lemon grass etc. The road was beautifully wooded all the way. Arrived at our destination, we walked up the hill, and there found a bungalow at the top, and sat in the cool verandah and admired the view. It was certainly a very fine view, all round us hills clothed with the luxuriant tropical trees, and at our feet rolled the Gin Ganga, making its way through paddy fields and winding away between the hills, in the far distance. Adams Peak in the far distance, where most of the Rubies and Sapphires come from, they are found in pits, and earth being washed in sieves, falls through and leaves the stones on the meshes. Many pilgrims old and young, clamber to the top of Adams Peak, it being sacred, as the place Bhudda put his foot on.

Drove back and went off to the Pekin, first going to the Assam to wish the Lambs, Mackie [?] and other Australian friends Goodbye. That evening the Assam left and we gave her a round of cheering. I led off and heard the Count’s voice saying – “Is that you Monsieur ‘All.” Had some music afterwards, Mrs Waller playing and singing, Lawrenson also warbling, and a very good voice, he has too.

8 March – Friday

Paid a visit with Marsh to the French Ironclad Armide. They were very civil to us, showing us all over the vessel. She has four guns about the size of our 6½ ton guns, in the central battery, and one more each side on the upper deck, en barbette, amidships. Her broadside guns are no height above the water and in any sea-way could not be used. Her small guns are of the latest pattern, vent in the centre of the breech piece. Chassepot rifles, very good revolvers, and a capital shell gun for keeping off torpedo boats. I think it has five barrels, and fires 35 a minute; about a 3 lb. shell goes off on concussion. It is an American gun, Hotchkiss. Her towering [?] torpedoes, on each quarter are like our 100 lb. torpedo case, and fit in a piece of wood about 15 feet long, fired by electricity. The Armide is evidently an old vessel.

Spent the rest of the day at the Hotel. A very fine vessel, the Seringapatam, lying here, can’t get any cargo, freights being so low.

9 March – Saturday

The Kashgar came in and does not sail until tomorrow morning. Spent all day on board the Pekin excepting a stroll with Mackenzie round the ramparts. Found it too hot and came back to the ship.

After dinner, much leave-taking and fun, and on board the Kashgar. Bought a ring this morning for £2. Rubies and Pearls.

10 March – Sunday

Still taking in cargo. Looked out of my port and saw an umbrella sticking out of the Murray’s port. Handkerchief attached. Went on the F.Dk, and talked to some of the ladies on fingers.

Paid a farewell visit to Pekin in catamaran, and at 9 o’c the Judge, Capt. Mead and I, on her leaving, gave a cheer. The Judge singing out and leading most manfully, and amidst waving of towels, handkerchiefs, etc, we parted. At 10 o’c we followed.

14 March – Thursday

Passed early this morning, the Northern end of Sumatra and saw the Golden Horn 10,000 feet high. Communicated with the Norfolk, a fine vessel of Wigram’s. She wanted some provisions, supplied her. Her Capt’n left us one of his pamphlets about the sea-serpent which he saw off the Brazils. We are a very jovial little party, ten in all, only two China passengers besides our party from the Pekin. It has been very warm 86°, on our cabin and we have not the large ports the Pekin has.

I don’t wonder the P & O have lost their Chinese passengers for the Capt’n Baker said, not so very long ago, some 40 passengers came down from China and on arriving at Galle, they only found two vacant places kept for them in the Calcutta steamer. Then, having to rough it in the Mail, or go on to Bombay and take the Mail, from there and the same thing with freight whilst the Messagerie run straight to Marseilles.

Been reading up summary since leaving Galle, as much as the heat and some abominable stinks on board would let me.

AT PENANG

15 March – Friday

Arrived at Penang this morning 1220 miles from Point de Galle and 7732 miles from England.

Saw a Chinese Junk for the first time; not much different to what I expected to see. Lots of sampans soon gathered round the ship on anchoring. The boatmen seemed mostly Chinese.

Landed with the Judge and Mead and Hervey joining us. We went out in a couple of gharries, a very good four-wheeled conveyance, to the waterfalls some five miles out. Very good roads, and scenery the same as at Galle, only prettier. It seemed more civilised, very pretty and large bungalows each side, a good part of the way. The hovels the Chinese live in have not much privacy about them.

The waterfalls were very pretty – nothing very much. At the foot of it stands a Hindoo Temple, and we saw some half-a-dozen men and women going through the Rites, salaaming, kissing the ground, walking three times round the temple and smearing marks of lime over their faces, taken from the plate, with fire burning in it.

One old man came up and seeing Hervey lame, asked him by signs, what was the matter with him, making most obscene gestures to signify his meaning. Hervey made us laugh telling the story after we came down from the top of the waterfall.

We all crossed over by ferry steamer to the Territory of Wellesley and made our way to Hervey’s brother’s bungalow. He is a Magistrate and has a fine large bungalow. He gave us a rattling good lunch. The curry was a thing to be remembered. I must get the recipe. I never tasted such a dish in my life.

Came back to the P & O steamer, giving the Herveys a cheer from the boat and wishing Hervey a speedy recovery from the gout that afflicts him. Serious news by telegraph about Russia. That lying dishonourable nation.

Penang is an island 15 miles by 9 miles and is mountainous, having a fringe of plain running at its base. On some of the bay round on the plain facing the mainland stands George Town, a good-sized place. It is about three miles across. Wellesley is a strip of territory some 35 miles long and 10 miles broad, belonging to us.

I found out yesterday about the Betel Nut. It grows on a straight thin palm and the Sere plant is grown on poles, like hops. The natives take the Betel Nut and wrap it up with some lime in the Sere leaf and chew it, something like tobacco and its juice makes their teeth and gums red.

Tigers sometimes swim across to Penang, or used to. I was surprised to hear of instances given of tigers swimming 10 miles.

AT SINGAPORE

17 March – Sunday

Singapore 395 miles from Penang and 8127 miles from England. We came into the New Harbour at 8 o’c in the morning, and very pretty it is. Trees growing quite out of the water and quaint looking Chinese dwellings, dotted about stuck up on poles in the water. We soon lashed alongside the P & O wharf. They possess a nice piece of property here.

After breakfast, Mead, the Justice and myself drove up to the town some three miles in a gharry and attended Service in the English Church – punkas were going the whole time. It was a very nice service. The preacher, we all voted an ass, and we found out afterwards it was the Revd. A. Tooth of Ritualistic notoriety. After service, I drove out to the Tanglin Barracks and arrived in time for tiffin. I sent out [?] Parkinson, Capt. Fowler’s nephew, a nice young fellow whilst smoking. Lyttleton said “I know what you would like” – I said, “What?” , and he said “A good cold bath”, and in a few seconds I was stripped, the fellows bringing sponge etc. and I had a most refreshing [bath]. They seemed a good lot of fellows. The 74th have just relieved the 28th at Hong Kong, which the 28th regret very much. Found Lyttleton’s father and mine were out in the Carlist war together.

After spending some time at barracks, came back to dinner on board with the Judge. The Charybdis and two small craft are in. Everything is at a stand-still on the station pending war, or not. Capt’n Hotham kindly sent and asked me to come on board Charybdis but I could not manage it. They have had a good deal of fever on board, thus laying in the New Harlem.

24 March – Sunday

A strong NE monsoon with swell has been against us the last two days, bringing our speed down to 9 knots. Hope to get into Hong Kong tomorrow morning.

HMS Audacious. Hong Kong 1440 miles from Singapore and 9567 miles from England.

ARRIVE HONG KONG – JOIN AUDACIOUS

28 March – Thursday

Have had time to shake down. I joined on Sunday morning whilst Church was going, a launch being sent for me. Found Willoughby all ready to welcome me, and after Church made acquaintance with Admiral and others. Tho’ after all it was not making acquaintance as I knew all before. Lunched with Harry Kelham at the 74th Barrack’s, then paid a visit to Dr Wells and attended service at the Cathedral.

Came on board and dined with the Admiral, a very good dinner. He manages to stow a good deal of liquor away under his jacket and tries to make everyone else do the same. Felt very depressed this afternoon, not being very well and joining a new ship and knowing how careful one must be, not to tread on people’s corns. I must just manage to keep things going on much the same as they are. Find everything very well organised and in good order.

Landed yesterday with the Battalion. Parr going in charge and I put them through skirmishing.

Have been very busy with Castles, getting things to extemporise for electric firing, the detonators and tubes all having deteriorated very much, so that really electric firing cannot be carried on in the flag-ship nor can an outrigger torpedo. So fired and nothing to be got out of War Stores ashore. So, Castles and I have been very busy looking at different things to use as exploders etc.

31 March – Sunday

Took the Holy Communion and asked for strength that having shown my colours I may keep them flying. Dined last night with Castles, a small dinner party of 6 given in my honour; a very pleasant dinner. Managed to get out of my dinner at the 74th owing to a cut over the eye and a small abscess now getting better, that a cold has given me in my left ear.

Serious telegrams keep coming out. Working away fitting up extempore torpedo fittings for ship.

DEPART HONG KONG

7 April – Sunday

Steaming from Hong Kong to Nagasaki. We left with the idea of going to Yokohama, but the Admiral has altered his mind. Some think it is a ruse-de-guerre, as the Russian flag-ship and fleet are at Yokohama. I don’t think myself it is more than the Admiral changing his mind. At any rate we shall get later news at Nagasaki. It is to be hoped the Admiral will go through the Inland Sea. Capt’n Buller wrote to the Admiral from Yokohama. He had lately dined with the Russian Admiral. They kept a sharp look-out for the English ships. Buller also sent a plan of the Outrigger Torpedoes, the Russians had constructed at Yokohama. They have also bought up all the lint at Yokohama.

I have been very busy fitting up the Dipping Battery and have had many difficulties to contend against, but I hope to be successful by God’s help, for why not go to God for help, in small, as in large affairs.

10 April – Wednesday

Partially successful with my Battery nil desperandum. Dined this evening with the Admiral. He was very jovial, told me to tell my father of our night quarters last Monday night (meaning I suppose a rather random after dinner speech he made at 10.30 pm to the men). He said “It will please the old boy.”

Went over with Parish the list of ships on the Station, and we both concluded we had a regular lot of cripples out here. Very good for Treaty Ports and the Chinese, but not meant for actual work.

ARRIVE NAGASAKI

12 April – Friday

Nagasaki. We came in yesterday afternoon, found Magpie and Sylvia in. Nagasaki, a large Japanese town, one of the five Imperial Cities, lies at the head of a harbour, some 3 to 4 miles long and narrow all the way up, varying at times, and islands studded along each side. On the left hand side, entering is the Island of [?] where some 300 years ago, the Japanese took 20 to 30 Christians and threw them over a cliff on to the rocks beneath.

Each side are hills, and behind these again rise higher hills and mountains, the hills being beautifully green with foliage and cultivation. The ground is cut up into small plots and terraces, otherwise, the water would run off at once. The shades of green are most varied and beautiful from very dark to very light. Patches of brown rock showing out here and there only tend to bring out the surrounding colours more beautifully. The contour of the hills, also, so fine, well rounded and so many contours and undulating. I don’t thing I’ve ever seen a more beautiful place.

The town lies in a hollow between two hills and runs back from the sea, all wooden houses. Fires sweep them down by wholesale when they do break out, but on the other hand shocks of earthquakes are frequent. The dress of the Jappers is different to the Chinese, more of the Jappers hereafter.

Went with the Admiral and inspected the Sylvia (Pelham Aldrich’s). Very clean and neat. Afterwards shifted and went with Admiral and Captain to the Deomina [?] Bazaar and saw the china, some of it very good. Then, went and had a look at the new dock building. It will be finished in another year and will take, I should say, the largest ship afloat.

DEPART NAGASAKI

13 April – Saturday

Nagasaki to Yokohama. Yesterday afternoon I went ashore again with Richards, the Paymaster. We strolled through the town. It is a large sized town. I should say some 20 – 30,000 inhabitants. The streets are not very broad, some 20 feet generally, but then as no wheeled conveyances are used, but the jinny ricks, it does not matter.

The jinny ricks are like large sized two-wheeled perambulators, with a hood moveable, and shafts with cross pieces in front and one man getting into the shafts will run you along some 6 miles an hour. They always go at a trot. The streets are paved in the centre for these jinny-ricks to run along on.

The houses are generally two storied and divided by partitions made of paper on wooded framings and these partitions slide very easily. The floor is covered with matting, no chairs or tables as Japanese always sit with their sterns on their heels. You can generally see every room on the lower floor. The houses are built of wood with a great deal of lattice work about them, and are kept very clean. There is not much privacy about them.

The people are either very immoral or in a state of pristine innocence. I think a combination of both. The public bath houses, have partition running down the middle, women one side, men the other, and both sides open to the view, and from the street, you see both sexes in their primeval state. They don’t mind in the least being so public. In fact, one may say they wash in the streets and the rig of some of the men is very like the South Sea Islands and many only wear a band and a kind of truss. The women wear more clothes, but some of the women are very scant about their bulwarks, and their rig is uncommonly like the rig of women at home now, tight about the legs and a big bow behind.

They wear their hair similar to the Chinese but bring a tuft from the front of the head back to the scalp. The men wear their hair moderately short and shave from the scalp along the top of the head to the front and then bring a tightly marled tuft down along the shaved part from the scalp to the front – the reverse way to the women.

The married women black their teeth and I believe are faithful enough. The young girls, it is considered no disgrace for them to live with a man. As long as she is living with one man, it is considered a tie binding, however short a time it may be. Then, she may go from one to another. It is a very common thing for men to go to the brothels to pick up a wife and it is all right after marriage. The women are very small, averaging I should think five feet at the outside, better looking than the Chinese. The Japanese are very different to the Chinese. They have not the same stolid look of vacancy a Chinaman wears and are much more lively and good-humoured.

Yesterday, was the great festival of Kites, and in the afternoon thousands of kites were flying all about the place. They fly them very well, making them dip and hover about like a bird and wheel to the right and left, and they make them fight each other, saw each other’s strings through.

I went to the top of the hills overlooking the town were there are thousands of their ancestors tombs (they bury in casks and place them on end, and over the place they place a small pedestal about three feet high): the whole sides of the hills, about the town are thus covered and of course the water is very impure. Arrived at the top of hill, I joined a party of Jappers and watched the kite flying. The country for some two miles was alive with people flying kites and numbers with long bamboo poles running about and catching the falling kites that had their string cut through. Sometimes they struggled for a kite, but all in good humour. Amongst the many hundreds I passed through I did not see an angry look, but all laughing and joking.

My Japper friends made me drink some saki made from rice and I gave them cigarettes, at which they were very much pleased. One young lady there playing a species of guitar and singing.

One thing that particularly strikes one is the politeness of all around. If a Japper speaks to you, or to another Japper they bow and bow and it is most amusing to see two meet in the road. They bow to each other and keep their ladies bent at right angles, looking up at each other, it being a point of honour not to get up first, and until one gets a crick in the back, so they remain, but not speaking, hyperbolically. I never met a more polite lot. They beat the French out of the field, all classes.

Can’t say I thought much of the singing by the young women, very girlish and twangy. They accompany themselves on a three or four stringed instrument, something like a banjo, striking the strings with a piece of tortoiseshell.

ARRIVE YOKOHAMA

17 April – Wednesday

Arrived at Yokohama. Found here the Juno, Modeste, Egeria and Kestrel and the Russian Squadron, the Bayan, Flagship, Gaidamak and Vsadnik. Heard there were two others cruising to the westward somewhere. The usual visits were paid and any amount of saluting went on. The Russian Admiral excused himself dining with our Admiral, Thursday night, Friday night, Saturday and Sunday nights and on Monday he said he was going to sea.

22 April – Monday

Yokohama to Nagasaki via Kobe and the Inland Sea. I went ashore at once on Thursday and endeavoured to buy some platinum wire. I went in company with Bridgford, the Marine Artilleryman stationed here, as he knows everyone. We went first to Van Lissa and found he had sold all his. No need to say who to. Going into his back premises I saws a lot of fuzes, just finished making. He laughed and we examined them. He said the last bit of his platinum wire had been used on them. They were the last batch of 500 and had cost 30 cents a-piece, nearly £30 for the lot. Of course he did not tell us who they were made for, but that was not necessary.

In a few hours time they had found their way to their destination. We hunted the town through and found the same answer. The Russians had been there three weeks before. I invested in £16 worth of carbon plates and cleared Van Lissa’s shop out. Just got enough to make 4 large Leclanché cells for ship.

Bridgford has made arrangements to know immediately the Russians think of going. On Friday morning early the Modeste and Egeria went out under sealed orders. I think either to Australia, where it is thought these Russians mean to go, or to be near these other two, who are cruising about somewhere. The Russians had some two dozen spar torpedoes made here of sheet copper to stand a pressure of 50 lbs on the square inch. I can see their ships are fitted for three booms each side. Went ashore every day endeavouring to get wire, but always the same answer.

Coaled ship immediately after Church on Good Friday, finished at 8 pm. Saturday.

Heard of the line between Shanghai and Nagasaki being broken. That is the line coming from Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe and Yokohama, and the one we get our news by. The Russians have a line from St Petersburg to Vladivostock and so they hear all the news and we don’t. Our line is broken about 100 miles from Shanghai. On a bank there it sometimes breaks, being fished up by junks and then a piece taken out of it, but the last few years the Junk masters have had a kind of subsidy to keep it clear. It is however very easily cut.

Sunday morning at 5.30 the Russians went away very quietly. The Admiral went up to Tokyo and saw Sir H. Parkes.

We had Service at 9 o’c and the Holy Communion. I had been sent for at 6 o’c and told to get all I wanted off as we were going South, after the Russians, and to pick up the telegraph at Kobe, or Nagasaki; or, if not repaired I suppose at Shanghai. The Admiral came down at 11 o’c, and 2 o’c we were at sea, towing the Magpie on our way South.

DEPART YOKOHAMA

We heard from a Japanese transport that she had passed the Russian Fleet steering SW off Vries Island so they must have been going a good rate. The Admiral heard at Tokyo – a telegram from St Petersburg – saying matters were more peaceable, but that may have been a blind only, for there are suspicions of foul play, and we know the Russians tamper with the [?] one on the Telegraph Department. Both lines are in the same company’s hands.

The Singapore line had been broken on the 20th and we did not hear of it until late on the 21st. Messages had been taken in all the same. The line sometimes takes three days repairing, sometimes more. It all depends whether the steamer is ready at Shanghai. It is a great nuisance for us and looks very suspicious.

We don’t trust the Russians a bit. They would no more respect the Japanese waters than they respect the truth and would just as soon torpedo us in neutral waters as look at us. War might break out any day and we should not know it until some time after they do, until the line is repaired. No doubt we shall see them at Kobe tomorrow.

Sounded off to action this morning. Everything worked very well. Getting on very well with my ship’s battery (Leclanché). Have to keep the Morning Watch now, Garbett having a game leg.

ARRIVE KOBE

28 April – Sunday

Came in here last Wednesday. Found the Russian Squadron in here and telegraph lines all right. Coaled ship Thursday.

That evening the Admiral gave a large dinner party to the Russians. I dined aft also and sat next the Flag Lieut, a very nice young fellow. The Russian Admiral, Capt. of Vsadnik, the Judge from Kashgar, were among the guests. The Russian Admiral has a very distingué appearance. The dinner went off very well, notwithstanding the fact that neither Admirals could communicate with each other, ours speaking English and French, and the Russian his own language and German. We drank the Queen’s and Czar’s health together standing, band playing. After dinner we smoked and at 10 o’c they went, with the exception of Captain of Vsadnik, who stayed until 12 o’c smoking and drinking Plymouth Gin with our Admiral. The latter got very full and told the Russian he intended following their ships. The Russian stood his liquor uncommonly well, he did not let anything out though.

That night at 3 am his ship went out of harbour, no one knowing it was her, she went so quietly.

Saturday morning the Gaidamak went out, and we left this morning at 4 am for Nagasaki, Magpie in tow leaving the Frolic and Bayan at Kobe.

Friday, Parr and I went up Mayasan Hill, some 2500 feet. It was a tremendous tug getting up. Parr having such long legs made me extend mine somewhat beyond the usual length to keep up. Met Lang half way up, who joined us. Arrived at the top, refreshed ourselves with some weak Japanese tea and some delicious oranges. The Temple of the Moon at the top is like most Bhuddist Temples, rather of the shanty style, and inner room into which you look is full of bronze ornaments, a few being artistically wrought. Numerous large bell ropes hanging about in the porch of the temple, which worshippers pull, which causes a gong to be hit and wakes up Bhudda. Some of the bell ropes were as big as an 18 inch hawser. All the way up to the Temple are stuck, by the way, small sticks with prayers on paper attached to them, representing so many cents in the priests’ pockets.

Came back by the waterfalls. Uncommonly pretty the ravines are. Pretty little tea-houses peeping out here and there, it makes a charming scene. Came back to the town in Jinny Ricks. Our men in theirs racing back, quite lost all idea of decency and their truss suspender was worse than useless.

Went ashore this afternoon with Richards and bought china. We saw two very fine bowls in a shop. The man asked $9 for the pair. We refused and offered $4 – “No” – so we went away to another shop intending to come back and offer a little more. We met the Admiral, Durrant and Parish in another shop – being short of cash borrowed $5 from Durrant. Admiral’s party walked down the street, I said “I’ll bet you Richards that the Admiral sees the bowls.” So it happened. Durrant we saw pointing them out to Admiral, who bargained and offered $4½ – “No.” To our great relief they left. We sauntered down and then offered $4½. He closed and we took the bowls. Parish said to Admiral, “We’ll go away and come back, – those other fellows can’t take them as they have no money.” They came back and found the bowls sold.

DEPART KOBE

ARRIVE NAGASAKI

1 May – Wednesday

Nagasaki. Arrived in this afternoon. We left Kobe Sunday morning and came through the Inland Sea. It is really a succession of small islands, the lakes also being full of Islands. The shores lined with towns and villages and the sea literally alive with fishing boats. In one of these lakes, we passed through Sunday afternoon, we computed there must have been some 7,000 of these Sampans.

Now and then you would see Daimyo’s residence standing, generally on a hill, close to or in the town, high buildings with courts and outhouses and surrounded by a high mud wall. It was most charming, passing along through these islands. Sometimes barely a ship’s length across and steering now and then almost the opposite way, will show what a ...[?] course we made. We anchored each night and got under weigh at 4 o’c. Passed through Shimonoseki Straits. Very narrow at one place and a six knot current with us yesterday morning. Shores lined as usual with villages and ground well cultivated.

Anchored last night under the lee of an island and came in this afternoon. Found here Modeste, Egeria, Lily and Sylvia; also an American and the two Russians Vsadnik and Gaidamak. Not much war news.

4 May – Saturday

Sandilands, Miller and myself went out for a 11 mile walk to the waterfall. It was a tremendous tug over the hills that surround Nagasaki. We passed through Yagami, a large village and got to the waterfall at 1 o’clock. The scenery is very pretty, not grand, but being well wooded and every square foot cultivated and hilly, it is very pretty indeed. Wheat and rice are principally grown about here and beans to some extent. The ground for the rice is just being got ready, being ploughed up by very primitive kind of ploughs. Indeed, an English plough would be quite thrown away in the little plots the ground is cut up into, every inch on the hill sides being cultivated and the sides of the hills are one mass of terraces to keep the water on the hills.

Arrived at the Tea-House at the Waterfall. We at once stripped and plunged into the pool at the bottom. The lady of the house came out and greeted us with “Ohayo.” Sandilands standing on the rock, made a most grave bow. We had some difficulty in getting something to dry ourselves with. At last she brought us some rags which did duty for towels. It seems strange bathing before women. Out here men and women bathe indiscriminately together, but it is wonderful how custom reconciles you to these things.

We walked backed pretty briskly and got back in time for dinner.

10 May – Friday

Been the last few days rigging out Torpedo Obstruction. Got our trysail masts, Gaffs, jib Booms, and all spars out, with swifters round. Had some experiments, running full tilt at the Obstruction with Steam Pinnace. Obstruction did very well, but hardly feasible, if lying off an enemy’s port, as gear would foul the screw. Only good would be, when you could not manage to keep underway.

Made some trials at night time of running down to ship without being seen. Made several runs. Moonlight night, but cloudy, not very dark. Average time, from noise of engines heard and phosphorus of water at times seen, to bring alongside: 1 minute. Naked eye only being used. Binoculars would add on another minute.

12 May – Sunday

Vigilant broken down. No mails till Friday next. Yesterday, Goodrich, Dodgson and I went for a ride out to Isahaya, via Yagami. We left at 9 am and got out to Isahaya at 1.00. The ponies went along very well. It was terrible work holding them in.

We had a Japanese lunch of rice, cha, seaweed, eggs at a tea-house, surrounded by a crowd of admiring Jappers, smoked – forty winks and off again.

Isahaya, like most of these large Japanese villages, consists of a long street, about a mile to two miles long, paved in the centre so that a jinny rick can go along very well. The road out is very good and level and runs along between hills most of the way. The great thing is to get over the hills round Nagasaki, but these ponies step out wonderfully well. A very fine two arched bridge at Isahaya, the peculiarity of it being that the arches dip in the centre. You go to the [foot?] of each arch by means of steps, up which the ponies went up splendidly.

Came back at a rattling pace. My pony stuck two thirds of the way, up the hill coming back and I could not get him on, although I tried coaxing, pushing him broadside on, etc. It came on to rain very heavily and pony and I waited an hour. Then the Bato [?] came up and I turned the pony over to him. He immediately took a large stone and hove it at the brute’s head and ultimately made it go on. We gave $2 and 50 cts. just $½ too much.

French Flag-ship Armide, came in, Wednesday, May 15th.

18 May – Saturday

Intended going out to Isahaya again with Goodrich, but it simply pelted up to 1 o’c, so went curio hunting and picked up a very pretty kakemono for $2½. (a painting on silk).

19 May – Sunday

Mail came in. A long letter from Father. Robbie at home, likely to get employment. It will do the boy good being at home a bit. I see my Father is on the Court-martial on the loss of HMS Eurydice.Took the Communion.

21 May – Tuesday

Went out in the launch for a sail with Parr, Aldrich, Mrs Aldrich and two Mids; very pleasant sail. French mail came in, coming by the Hugon, French man-of-war. More particulars about loss of Eurydice. I have lost in Tabor, Strange and Smith, three old messmates and very good fellows too. Strange was a very religious man. Curiously enough he owned the Derby course and Grand Stand.

The Shannon, Ruby and Diamond are on their way out here, if not already at Hong Kong, to reinforce the station. I hope to see my old friend Holbech, who is 1st Lieut of Shannon. The rumour is that the Russians intend to risk everything and have a slap at our commerce round by the Manilas and to the Southward of Hong Kong.

24 May – Friday

Her Majesty’s Birthday. Some gaiety on board, a general holiday, pig and greasy pole, boat sailing etc.

I went out to the Waterfall and found a riding party of ladies and gentlemen there having tiffin, who asked me to join them, which I did after bathing in the stream some little way down. Whilst splashing in the water, I looked up and saw an admiring crowd of men, women and children admiring my evolutions, showing modesty out of sight, but desiring to spend my natural life in water. I got out and dried myself, the Jappers looking on all the time very complacently. Came back by myself from the waterfall, Sandilands not turning up.

Admiral had a large dinner party including the Russian consul. The Gun Room fellows are entertaining the G.R. of Armide. The Frenchmen’s bellies are full of liquor and there is much singing of the Marseillaise.

25 May – Saturday

Went for a ride to Ioketes this afternoon with Whiddon, but on getting out about 6 miles, through W. not steering well, the pony slipped over the edge of a paddy field and sent W. off. I was much relieved to find only a bruised shoulder, but a very bad one. We walked back to Nagasaki, or rather made our nags do so.

We passed some of the Satsuma men, prisoners of the late rebellion, employed dragging a kind of path coach along. They seemed very merry.

I should mention that Thursday last, I breakfasted with Monsieur de la Jonquere[?], à la fourchette, and then witnessed them at General Quarters and had a good look at all their guns etc. They were all very civil and courteous to me. They were not up to much in the drilling line. Sent in a report.

28 May – Tuesday

Paid a visit to the Hugon and saw them at General Quarters. Frenchmen drill too much like machines and have not the same dash and spirit our bluejackets have.

Received a long letter from my dear Father. Rob still at home and I’m glad of it. Francie excelled on the piano at the Concert. A pleasant talk with Corfe.

31 May – Friday

My brother Willie died this day 1866. My dear Mother alone then. Now she has gone and taken half my heart with her, I loved her so much. My heart is fit to burst when I think of her. I can’t do it. If done, I dream terribly at night – so painful. I pray God we may all meet in an unbroken circle round his Throne.

Goodrich and I lunched with Lawrenson at the Belle Vue Hotel, two Japanese doctors also lunching. After lunch we went to the School in the Ashiwara and saw the young ladies at work there, some learning to write and some sewing. It was a curious sight and it is a curious institution, being a Government one, but it is peculiar to Japan. I did not think much of their beauty.

From the school, after investing in some things there, we were taken to see some curios in a private house, having to go through a brothel to get at it, and the notice we saw stuck up amused me very much. Everything being so very different in England of this kind of thing.

1 June – Saturday

Glorious First. Cecil Willoughby and I went out to the Waterfall, taking books with us and caviare. After a delicious bathe we got screens round us, read and slept – Much of the latter to little of the former. Walked back and got back in time for dinner.

7 June – Friday

Stewart (mid.) and I went up in the skiff to Pappenberg Island, and landed the opposite side of the Commander’s party. We soon had a large fire under way and cocoa boiling. Had a most delicious bathe. Three Jappers coming round the corner would not go away but stood admiring us, so we had to run the cynosure of their gaze, drying ourselves, dressing as soon as we could. Got back to dinner, Stewart dining with me.

Heard by telegram this week of the loss of the German Ironclad Grosser Kurfürst with 300 men off Dover.

8 June – Saturday

Two letters from Russell taking a month coming up from Hong Kong. He is doing very well out in Australia on the Chirnside’s Estate. Willoughby and I started off for the Waterfall and got there at 12 o’c. We never had experienced such intense heat. Although we had umbrellas and helmets we felt it very much, and we were in a mortal funk of getting knocked. We soon plunged into the water and luxuriated in the water and laid down in the tea-house lightly clad, when Sandilands appeared on the scene and said he never saw such a disgraceful sight. However, he soon joined us and then after a smoke, we had another bathe and started back still very hot.

Willoughby said he knew of a way four miles shorter. It turned out to be longer and more hilly and we were quite exhausted on getting to the top, and very glad to get into jin-ricks at the end of the valley, after descending the hill. We got on board by 6 o’c and had a bathe and then dressed for Tomioka’s dinner, the Japanese Mid. on board.

I fancy he is likely to be soon leaving the ship and the Japanese Authorities thought it was the proper thing for him to give a feed, and provided the funds, the dinner being given ostensibly by him. He asked all the W.R. and G.R. and engineers. It was given in the Cent Gardens in a large tea-house there, about 30 of us went. The only other Japanese present being the Governor of Nagasaki.

It was given European fashion and very well done. A capital dinner and the waiting was very good, there being only three men, the rest being Musimes, very prettily rigged. They looked like so many butterflies flitting round you and waited capitally. They looked such dear little things and very modest too.

After dinner, at 10 o’c the Shamisen girls came in to the room, about a dozen of them. We made a kind of semi-circle, smoked and the dancing began. Only about half danced, girls of from 14 to 20 and most prettily rigged, the dresses being most gorgeous and must be very costly. The obi (or band) had splendid [bow] made up behind, and their hair done up very well and adorned with flowers. The elder ones did not dance and were dressed much more quietly. They all had instruments, the two having drums in the shape of a sand glass.

First they all struck up a tune and singing, or chanting at the same time, and one of the dancing girls came out and danced, or rather posed herself in different attitudes to the tune of the music. There is no dancing in the European sense of the word, in fact they could not do so, their dresses being heavy and coming to the ground. The first one was evidently the swell gazer (or dancer) who played with a fan and umbrella (Japanese). Then she put on a mask and imitated an old man and did all kinds of pools [?]. Then several others followed and then they did it together, music and chanting going on the same time, the dancers joining in the songs at times. Some wee little things about 10 danced too.

After each dance was done, each dancing girl went and did shinjo to the older ones who had been playing for them. I never saw such a pretty sight in all my life as this dance. It goes on for hours and there need not be anything indecent about it. There is no exposing of the person.

At eleven a lot of us left and came on board. I brought young B-----g, a Master Jap. These girls are quite moral girls (Japanese morality). We had several toasts at dinner. The Queen of England and the Mikado, then the Governor of Nagasaki and then John’s health. It was altogether a most successful evening.

16 June – Sunday

The last week, nothing noteworthy happened saving that on Wednesday morning we went out for Target practice, coming in again about 6 o’c and mooring.

Heard on Friday evening from Father. What with Grannie, Francie and Edith being seedy and a party of 25 officers that evening, seems to have his hands full. Baldie at School, a very good thing for the little man.

Yesterday Goodrich and I went out in the skiff and had lunch at entrance of harbour, ashore in a quite little nook. Going on the Pappenberg for a bathe, afterwards went to the top of Pappenberg and saw the place where the Christians were thrown over on to the Rocks.

20 June – Thursday

Accession Day. Saluting. Admiral giving a big dinner; 6 or 7 national Anthems played. I dined in G.R. with Stewart.

22 June – Saturday

Walked out with Willoughby to the Maiden’s Dell and had a most delicious bathe, and then walked back over Venus hill, the spot the American party took their observation from.

Garbett and I busy copying out Tables from the German Gunnery Book lent me by Muchall, Lieut of Albatross. The Lieut-Captain Rotger is a very good fellow too. Muchall came and smoked last night and listened to the Band.

27 June – Thursday

Just turned in last night and listening to a mosquito buzzing round my head, when I heard a row on deck. Turning out, found it was a fire on shore making a good blaze. Volunteered to go. In about 15 to 20 minutes we had a large party ashore with Tomahawks, Grapnels, Mining Charges etc. but had hardly got on the Bund, when we found that it had been got under, so we halted and bivouacked on the Bund for ½ an hour, smoking and at 1.30 returned on board. The Jappers have a very good Fire Brigade at this place.

Captain asked me to go out to Tako Sima in Stbd Pinnace, a party being made up of some ladies etc. Mrs Aldrich, Martin and Howe were the ladies; Aldrich, Cochrane, Paul Martin (the Manager of Coal Mine), Knox and Stewart completed the party.

We left at 10.30 am and got out to Tako Sima at 11.30, and landed. We had to go through a lot of Jappers who were washing themselves in a state of nature. They did not mind in the least. Some scores of them.

The Mine belongs to Jardine and Matheson, but as foreigners are not allowed to work mines, it is worked in the name of Mr Corto, an ex-Daimyo (Prince Corto). There are some 5,000 workmen employed in different ways on the Island. The output is 600 tons per diem. There are several seams. The best is 18 feet in depth. I did not know before today that all seams follow the same contour, just like the plan of lines of fortification or sandwiches out of shape, the meat being the coal.

The Jappers work in 3 shifts of 8 hours each, some above ground work 2 shifts of 12 hours each. They earn about 20 cents a day and cut about a ton in the 8 hours. They require a great deal of looking after, being very careless and lazy. There are some 50 miles of cuttings and headings. Ventilation is made by means of a revolving fan sucking air up the upshaft. As the barometer falls the revolutions are increased because the less pressure on the coal allows more fire damp to get out.

12 Europeans on the Island. Mr Martin is the Manager and gets £2,000 a year and I should say his billet and the Europeans is no sinecure.

In going through the village, both sexes were tubbing most promiscuously and publicly. One felt glad only married ladies were of the party. We tiffined at Martin’s Bungalow and started back again at 5 o’c running the gauntlet with the ladies thro’ a crowd of our stark naked friends, who had not the decency to put a clout in front.

Tea on the way back and got to the ship at 6.30 o’c. Felt my stomach and I were on good terms, so being camel night I took up savings for my dinner and went ashore for a hard walk through the town. Tried a little bargaining for curios.

Came off at 9 o’c and heard the sad news of Goodlake’s death at Hong Kong. Gun Lieut of Shannon and left behind in Hospital. Poor fellow, my lot, the second death out of the 13. He leaves a young wife to mourn his loss.

30 June – Sunday

Last night at 9.30 pm a Lieut Charter of Shannon turned up on board, and reported that his ship had anchored some two to three miles off the mouth of the Harbour. That she was going 9 knots when suddenly the pin of the eccentric strap went and eccentric shaft bent and engines stopped dead; so there being no wind she anchored outside.

I volunteered to go out to her as the Admiral wanted a Lieut to go out. We started at 11.30 pm towing the Shannon back and at 1 o’clock we got alongside. Found Captain Grant turned in, but he soon turned out and shook hands. After a good brew of cocoa I started back and got back to ship at 4 o’c, meeting the Magpie going out and doing her best to run a junk down. This morning the Shannon appeared, in tow of Magpie, rather a sorry entrance for a big xxx towed by a bug trap. She is certainly a most ugly ship. My chum Holbech lunched aboard.

5 July – Friday

Took Holbech out shopping.

6 July – Saturday

Went out with Holbech to Maidan’s Dell. I killed a snake 5 feet 6 in. long.

7 July – Sunday

Walked out with Clarke to the top of Venus Hill. Coming back saw a Venus in the tub washing herself, quite publicly.

8 July – Monday

Went aboard Shannon. Had a fence with McKechnie and dined with him.

9 July – Tuesday

Dined with Captain Hotham of Charybdis.

10 July – Wednesday

Dined quietly with Muchall on board the Albatross, Rotger being there. Muchall played the Zither after dinner.

11 July – Thursday

Holbech dined with me quietly, McKechnie being out of sorts, having had a row with Grant.

16 July – Tuesday

Went out in the Shannon for the day. She going out to try her engines and do Prize Firing. We leave on Friday for Yokohama. Heard by telegram of the Iron Duke being brought forward at once for our relief and also heard that peace was assured, the amended Treaty being agreed to by All Hands.

18 July – Thursday

Muchall dined with me and after dinner played the Zither; did not play it badly.

DEPART NAGASAKI

19 July – Friday

Unmoored and proceeded out of harbour this morning at 10 am. Barometer falling slightly and strong breeze from Southward.

20 July – Saturday

Prize Firing all forenoon. Proceeded through the Shimonoseki Straits at 4 pm.

21 July – Sunday

Steaming all day through the Inland Sea. We came through the North Channel of the Middle group of Islands, past Mihara. We took about three hours and a half, going through, steaming 7 knots. It was like going from one small lake to another, as soon as you left one and got into another, you lost sight of entrance and appeared to be steaming right into land, until you got close up and then suddenly an opening would show itself, and so it went on.

At 4 o’c we entered the second group of islands, and are now well through, but as, if we went on, we should be at Kobe in the Middle watch, we have come to an anchor off a very picturesque little village on an island.

On the whole, I can’t say the actual scenery of the Inland Sea is very pretty, but it is quite unique of its kind, its thousands of Islands, winding passages, many villages and large towns and countless Junks and Boats.