Embedded Files
SEPT 1888 - JULY 1889
DEPART ZANZIBAR
AT KILWA AND LINDI
28 September - Friday
From Lindi to Mayotta. On Monday last [24th] I arrived at Kilwa and found the German Man of War Möwe at anchor. The Acting Captain came on board and told me that he had been there since Saturday during which time incessant firing had been going on in the town, until 10 am that day; when it suddenly ceased and both the German Company’s and Sultan’s Flag had been hauled down. He knew nothing about the two Germans on shore.
I at once proceeded to an English Dhow at anchor off the beach some 400 yds, which was crowded with armed men and learnt the news from the crew of the Dhow, viz. that on the preceding Friday, the Kilwa people had gone to the two Germans and demanded the Sultan’s flag, to hoist on its old staff, and also that they should clear out in 48 hours. They then went to the mosque, took an oath that no German should live on the coast and at 1 pm returned and found that the Germans had barricaded their door. An altercation took place and firing soon became general, one of the Germans taking the lead, they had 8 servants to help them.
From Friday until Monday morning firing went on, 11 Kilwa people being killed and 7 wounded, the leading German, a very plucky chap, also being wounded and one of their servants killed. At 9 am on Monday the leading German was in the garden and was shot down by a man up a cocoa nut tree, the other German then shot himself and the servants rushed out, of whom four were killed and three hid in the bush, eventually getting off to Penguin on Tuesday night.
I had urged the Möwe to go at once to Lindi and Mikindani and get hold of the Germans there as I was convinced it was a regular plot right along the coast. So she left on Monday evening, returning on Wednesday, but finding the Germans had escaped in the meantime on Tuesday.
I had a long interview with a deputation of British subjects, accompanied by some of the leading Kilwa men. The former came to me for advice and I suppose the latter wanted to see what I thought of it all, and also to hear what the Hindis would say, and act as a kind of watch dog over them, as they had the day before, at my first visit to the Dhow.
The Kilwa people said they had taken my advice and hoisted the Sultan’s Flag. I said. “You must clearly understand I do not intend mixing myself up in the least with your affairs. My business is only with the British subjects, and though you have asked me to come on shore and meet them at the Custom House, assuring me of my safety, of which I am well assured, yet, I shall not land for fear that the Germans or Arabs should think I am poking my nose into this affair. On meeting you yesterday I asked what Flag you intended flying and you said you intended hoisting the Sultan’s.”
I asked for the private effects of the two Germans killed, but failed to get them, The Kilwa men spoke of the Germans in a most bitter way. I reassured the Hindis that the Kilwa men said their quarrel was only with the Germans and not the English and the Hindis and Banyans had nothing to fear, and they promised the trade should go on as usual, which it did on Wednesday.
On Wednesday morning I saw a Dhow come in flying the German Co. Flag and making for the town, so I sent a boat to intercept her, which she did in time, and brought her alongside. She had Herr Von Bulow and another German on board from Mikindani, who had just managed to escape with their lives, being fired at, and as the Dhow contained 10,000 lbs of gunpowder, it was not pleasant. Von Bulow is a Lieut in the Grenadier Guards.
Last night three of the servants came on board. They had been concealed since Monday, the other five had been killed; they gave me a very graphic account of the fight.
Soon after the Dhow came in the Möwe arrived and I left for Lindi, meeting outside another Dhow which I chased and found it to contain the two Germans from Lindi, I gave them a tow up and arrived at Lindi next forenoon, finding both flags flying. I soon had a visit from some Hindis who told me everything was quiet; that an Arab chief was in charge of the German stores and the Akida, who had been heavily bribed, was quiet at present, but being a regular scoundrel, was not to be trusted. They advised me not to go ashore.
At Mikindani there are 15,000 armed men and they had looted the German stores.
I left Lindi at 4 pm and met the German corvette Sophie coming in. I made a signal to her and she sent a Lieut to me. I gave her the news and found she had just come from Bagamoyo, where fighting had been going on - 100 natives killed, no Germans.
29 September - Saturday
Up all last night, finding such strong currents about, took any amount of sights. Made my eyes very sore. All today laying to off Comoro and Mohilla Islands. I am going on tonight. Comoro over 8500 feet high and such a mass for the size of the Island.
12 October - Friday
A long way behind in my journal and hard to write it up.
Steaming 75 revs a minute.
AT MAYOTTA
On Sunday, 30th Sept I anchored at Mayotta, inside a lot of coral reefs, and next day called on M. Papineaud, the French Governor, who returned my visit that afternoon, bringing Madame with him. They had tea on board and looked round the ship.
Tuesday. Stanhope, Hibbert and I dined with M. Papineaud, Madame having a slight touch of fever and being, as she informed me, in an interesting condition, left the table in the middle of dinner.
After dinner M. Papineaud amused us very much telling stories of his official life, commencing as Mayor, then a member of the Council General and finally Deputy. He told us what a lot of officials there were for everything and how everyone wanted something. He is evidently a sharp fellow and knows human nature well.
The French Mail coming in on Thursday morning. I received our mails and made a start for the Mauritius. I got a heap of letters and am thankful to say all well. Coffee House not doing well and I suppose I shall have to pay in something very soon.
On Friday 6th I experienced a very heavy sea and strong Trade from the SE with a 4 knot current flowing from the Westward and after fighting against it until Monday, under steam and sail, I had to give up and bear up for the Seychelles to leeward, which I reached on Wednesday, finding the Audacious there on her way back from China.
ARRIVE SEYCHELLES
I dined at Government House the same evening, taking in Mrs West, a very pretty Mauritian lady, married to West, the Chief Officer of Police, and sat next to Mrs Brown, wife of the Acting Chief Commissioner (Judge Brown), Bartly having gone home, suffering from Diabetes. Neither of my neighbours could speak a word of English, however I managed to get along somehow in French.
Had a yarn with Captain Warren who breakfasted with me next morning before sailing. Gave him three cheers, which he returned. Allen the 1st Lieut was a Mid in Minotaur with me 1/68-1/69.
At 5 pm we had taken on 115 tons of good Welch Coal. I had several visitors off, one a M. Langlois, to whom I gave a passage last March over to Fraslin Island; brought me a packet of Vanillas as a souvenir, a most valuable present. I made some calls on shore, on Dr Brooks, whose son is in the Admiralty, Secretary to Admiral Hotham, on the Wests, and Ross’ of Oriental Bank and then at Government House, made my Adios.
Then on to the Harbourmaster, Captain Manton, to ask him about the passage to Mauritius as he has had 16 years experience of it. I arrived at his house just as his good lady was being confined of twins, the first, a girl, having appeared. I did not know whether to congratulate or not, but wanted to beat a hasty retreat. Though in a state of great nervousness he would not let me go, so we sat down and had a good yarn which did him good, the lady going on well.
Last night the French Doctor told me a romantic story. Early this year an albatross was shot on the West coast of Australia and round its neck was tied a piece of tin upon which was written a short account of the shipwreck of a French barque on one of the Crozet Islands. The news was telegraphed home to the French Government, who ordered the Meurthe from Madagascar to go down and rescue them. They went down and had very stormy weather and on reaching the Island found the hut empty and a statement saying that they had exhausted all the provisions during the winter, which had been very cold - 5 deg below zero - and had gone to the next island 80 miles off (for the Comus, one of our ships some time ago, had erected on these stormy islands huts and stored them with provisions in case of ships being wrecked on them). The Meurthe went to the next island, but found no signs of them, so the poor fellows must have been lost making the passage.
I left this morning for the Mauritius first having received a present of some orchids from the Wests, and as I thought some ducks and 2 sucking pigs also, for which, I wrote and thanked them. But on getting to sea it turned out the ducks had been ordered by our Warrant Officers.
DEPART SEYCHELLES
14 October - Sunday
Last night just as I was commencing dinner the Doctor came in, saying Martin. Ord. had fallen from aloft and been killed, poor fellow. On enquiry, found he had been putting on chafing gear and coming down on the lee side, over the Fore Yard, had evidently missed his hold. He fell on his head and was killed at once. This morning he was buried on a sailor’s grave. I read the service over him. I long to be more active and have more faith in the Lord and his word.
ARRIVE MAURITIUS
24 October - Wednesday
Bishopthorpe. Mauritius. This day last week I arrived at Mauritius and intend staying until tomorrow week, Since our arrival everyone has been most kind. My Headquarters being here the house of the Bishop of Mauritius, Dr Royston, who with Mrs and Miss Royston are most kind and hospitable. They very kindly placed the Pavilion, a detached room in the grounds, at my disposal. On Thursday last I attended a meeting of the Bible and Foreign Society, Colonel Hall taking the Chair. The room (Masonic Lodge) was very full and addresses were made in English, French, Hindi and Tamil to suit the mixed audience. I spoke a few words.
On Saturday I went up by rail to Midlands to see the sugar estate, by invitation from Mr Wemyss and Mr Ferguson.
29 October - Monday
Staying at the Fergusons - a pretty place. On Wednesday last dined with and slept at the Wemyss, meeting several people there; one a Miss Mathews, a pretty girl and sings nicely. On Thursday returned to Bishopthorpe and met the Irelands and Frasers, both very pleasant. Fraser is cousin to Fraser in Boadicea and brother to one in Imperieuse, and of course knows the Grogans.
Friday last paid a visit to Dr Meldrum at the Observatory, where I spent several hours being much interested in everything. Observations very clearly showed the identity and coincidence of the Maxima and Min. of Declination, Aurora Borealis, Solar Sun Spots, the period being 11 years. Also that the Max. and Min. of Sun Spots and Rainfall Curves correspond for Globe and generally everywhere. Again that Sun Spot, Cyclone and River Curves correspond. The maximum depth of Rivers in Europe corresponded to the time the Sun Spots were at Max.
Saturday. I paid a visit to the Rev Mr Harris [?] and had a look at the orphanage and spoke a few words to the children. That afternoon came on to this place; attended Moka Church yesterday morning and heard Mr Davis preach a barren and uninteresting sermon; nothing to take away. I have been very .....
DEPART MAURITIUS
2 November - Friday
Steaming to Tamatave passed Bourbon this morning some 80 miles off, having left Mauritius last night. Tuesday last I dined and slept at the Irelands and Wednesday returned to the ship and that evening attended a meeting at the Temperance Institute, got up by Cockayne and the Good Templars. Archdeacon Mathews took the chair (a most excellent hard working clergyman). I gave a Gospel Temperance address for about ¼ hour, which was well received. At the end Cockayne proposed a vote of thanks to me and spoke so nicely of dear old father. It was seconded by an old sea captain who also quoted the story of how dear father became a TT.
On Wednesday (yesterday ) I went up to the Bishops and lunched there and at about 2 pm, 30 of our men came up by invitation, the Bishop and Mrs Royston receiving them, and about 15 young ladies being there to assist. In the Drawing room they soon set to work and began singing songs, with good choruses, the ladies and men singing the solos alternatively. At 3:30 they sat down with the Bishop to a most substantial meal, the ladies waiting on them, after which they asked me, on my coming in, to return thanks, which I did, and made a neat little hit by quoting Shakespeare’s lines about sailors being so inconstant, “one foot on the sea”, but I added there is an exception to every rule and one thing sailors are constant in and that is their admiration for the ladies.
Dined and slept at the Frasers. They are certainly, with the Irelands, the nicest people in the Island.
Yesterday I came down to the ship and at 2 rushed out to the Pamplemousses Gardens, meeting Scott who showed me over them and also gave me some of General Gordon’s letters to read, and showed me his paintings of the Cocos-de-Mer, and one in which the serpent was creeping up, Eve standing at the foot of a tree. He told me Gordon was fond of talking of the mysteries of the Bible and disliked company very much. I think from all I have heard of Gordon, that he must have been a very earnest Christian man of great faith, slightly tinged with mysticism and fatalism.
Sailed last night at 6 pm and stopped steaming this afternoon. Making sail, light trade wind and swell from the SW.
ARRIVE TAMATAVE, MADAGASCAR
6 November - Tuesday
Tamatave. Arrived here yesterday afternoon and found the French man of war Meurthe in. Called on her this morning, and last night went ashore to see our acting Consul, Aitken, but found he had gone up to the Capital, and Mr Sanzier, Vice Consul and Judge in charge. A very intelligent person. I was soon in the thick of Malagashy politics.
This afternoon I and three officers landed and changing at the Consulate into Epaulettes, Cocked hats etc. At 3 pm were ready to start for a call on the Governor. Music was heard in the distance and the band stopped outside the gates and some Malagashy Officers stepped in and made a lot of polite messages, after which we all got into palanquins and headed by about 50 soldiers and band, we marched through the streets. First three pairs of palanquins, containing Hora officers, then our Officers and myself and Vice Consul bring up the rear, with a guard of soldiers.
We passed through admiring crowds and sandy streets until we got to the Fort and then dismounting, were ushered into Governor’s presence. A fine looking chap (that gave the French so much trouble) and sitting down we drank the health of our Queens and of each other, I in water, the rest in Champagne. After paying each other compliments we parted. I liked the Governor’s face. A regular Malay cast of features. He is a Christian and was educated in the Mission school of the London M.S.
None of the Governors or soldiers get a fraction of pay and have to live by their wits. Of course this leads to anything and everything and all kind of abuses. The Horas are most immoral, their Christianity as a rule, and as in many other countries, only skin deep. Very oppressive to the subject tribes, not truthful, very astute and sharp and cowards. By no means the interesting race most people take them to be.
Present Queen a decent young woman of 25. Her husband the Prime Minister is 65, very clever, but tottering to his fall through inordinate affection for his worthless sons. He has been banishing many of his political opponents, but there is much uncertainty in the Capital as to what is going to occur. It seems hard on the Queen, the Prime Minister must always be her husband.
The French seem to be getting a stronger hold of the country and are working more diplomatically than before. Evidently England has been leaving Madagascar entirely to the French, as Zanzibar to the Germans on account of Egypt.
It is 18 months since a man of war has been here and very glad everyone is to see the Flag again. Great rows going on about Mr Knott - Vice Consul at Majunga. Horas refusing to recognise him as our Vice Consul. The fact is we should have regular paid Consuls, at any rate in the Capital, and not Vice Consuls who are mixed up in trade and have got no diplomatic training.
Called on Mrs Leavitt, the great woman T.T. lecturer and Mrs Houlder, L.M.S. Missionary, who gave me a lot of information regarding the slave trade, the inland trade going on to a very great extent.
7 November - Wednesday
This morning the Governor’s suite came off and were received by Officers and Guard. We went to General Quarters and His Excellency went round the ship and was much impressed, then toasts in the cabin and I requested a message might be sent to the Queen and Prime Minister conveying my respects, and I presented a photo of the ship to HE. He went away under salute of 15 guns, very well pleased with everything.
This afternoon Mrs Leavitt, Secretary to the World’s Christian Temperance Association (Women), came off with me and on the Quarterdeck sang the ninety nine and then gave a Temperance Address, which was listened to attentively by Officers and men. The meeting was closed by our singing the Hymn Beautiful words of Life, I playing the Harmonium. After which in my cabin, whilst having a chat with Mrs Leavitt, she told me she had often mentioned a Naval Captain of his reasons for taking the Pledge and I perceived it was my dear father she was speaking of, and told her so, much to her surprise.
Mr Houlder, L.M.S. came off also. To show how stories are told about Missionaries with no truth in them. Yesterday Mr Patterson, a merchant on shore here, talking said disparagingly of Missionaries. “Look at Mr Houlder here, building one of the finest houses in the place and bought a lot of ground which bye and bye will be of great value.”
I go to Mr Houlder’s house and find it a fairly commodious house for these parts, but nothing extraordinary about it and like lots of others. Drawing Mr H out about it I find the house was sent out from England and purposely made commodious so as to endeavour to keep the Missionaries on the coast, free from fever, so prevalent here in the summer, as they have suffered so much already. The ground, about 1¼ acres is on lease for 50 years to the Society, on part of which a Church is going to be built. Mr Houlder has been 16 years in the country and had eight children and I should think was a hard working man.
8 November - Thursday
This morning the French Mail came in and Col Colville of the Grenadier Guards and Mrs Colville came on board and had breakfast with me. They gave us all the Zanzibar news; the Admiral being still there and one of the Griffon’s Lieutenants having been killed by the Arabs - I suppose up at Pemba.
The C’s are going up to Antananarivo with Mr Leuryre de Vilers, the French Resident, and then to Majunga, and from there in a French man of war to Mozambique. I had a long yarn with Mr Vilers on shore, who declared to me there was no slavery going on along the West coast of Madagascar (he is a shrewd and I should say a clever man of determination).
The best comment on his declaration is that on crossing the road to the British Consulate, I saw all Knott’s despatches just arrived, telling of the Algerine’s captures off the Barren Islands. FitzHerbert in Algerine’s boat capsized on bar chasing Dhow, lost all rifles but one, and kept up a sharp engagement with Arabs and Sakalavas, losing one man and killing 4, capturing 30 slaves out of the 178. She also caught and burnt a Fore and Aft Schooner.
Sailed this afternoon for Majunga.
DEPART TAMATAVE
10 November - Saturday
Strong current against one up to now, but having picked up a good breeze astern, hope to round Cape Amber tomorrow.
11 November - Sunday
Lady Hall’s and Ida Grogan’s birthdays. Instead of reading a sermon this morning read a few verses from the Sermon on the Mount and comments taken from the Portable Commentary. Much better I think having something straight from the gold mine.
After service sent for the Blacksmith and asking if he was one of the brethren. He said “Yes”, I asked him to distribute Tracts for me on the Lower deck. We had a nice chat together and one is not afraid of talking to him as there is no fear of him being brought before me. He is considered one of the hardest working and best blacksmiths in the Service.
In consequence of Mrs Leavitt’s lecture on board, Comber our Chief Engineer, has become a Good Templar.
AT MAJUNGA
14 November - Wednesday
Yesterday at 1 pm I arrived at Majunga and very soon had a visit from the Vice Consul Mr Knott, who told me that the Governor still refused to recognise him. So on the Hora officers calling upon me, I told them, I regretted I was unable to call on the Governor.
Knott, I found is the son of a clergyman at Bath, and was at school with Rob at Mrs Hudson’s, Clifton. He seems a very nice fellow.
I landed and took a walk around the place, received a deputation of Indians, British Subjects, heard all their complaints, which are very grievous. The Governor oppressing them very much with a view of making them leave the place. I took everything down and intend forwarding it all to the Admiral, telegraphing the substance from Mozambique.
Mr Knott, Mr Harvey (Clerk) and an American of sorts, Mr Lord, all dined with me. Knott told me Pickersgill, the Vice Consul at the Capital was engaged in tea planting with the Prime Minister. Knott’s business is pressing Rafia and sending it to England, a very strong stuff used for binding plants.
Left at 8 am this morning, intending to put Boats down off Cape Andrew and go myself to search Juan de Nova Islands, where I hear there are some slaves barracooned.
Feel very lonely at times.
18 November - Sunday
Last Thursday, dropped Hibbert in Cutter and Gig off Ville Massah harbour, 3 miles from Cape St Andrew, to cruise for ten days. Proceeding myself to the island of Juan de Nova, 120 miles off, which I reached on Friday.
AT JUAN DE NOVA
Steaming along the S side, went in the Whaler to see if it was possible to land, but reefs prevented me doing so; went round to the N side and on the bank found the bottom very uneven and had to go on the Fore Yard myself to con her into deep water as I found ship was only in 4 fm and a swell on. On one occasion I just managed to turn her in between two great masses of coral.
At 1 pm, having put her into 10 fm, I left in the Whaler leaving orders with Stanhope and Davenport not to get into less than 8 fm and went into shore myself, some 4 miles off. As it was nearly high water, breakers were not bad and passed through them all right, some 800 yards from the shore (at low water I do not think it would be safe). On getting ashore I found the supposed slaves were some 50 Sakalavas who had been there 3 or 4 months catching turtles. They gave me one. Water is found in the centre of the island.
I got off to the ship, which was too close in, and had been in 6 fm for at least 20 min. Immediately the boat was hoisted I put the helm hard over and went slowly ahead, and turning she gave a slight bump, evidently on a projecting mound of coral, for the leadsman got ½5 in the chains. However it was a light bump and I do not think much damage could have been done.
AT MOZAMBIQUE
25 November - Sunday
Preached this morning a short sermon of my own composition, and pray it may have gone home to some of the listeners.
On Tuesday last I arrived at Mozambique, a very clean little town, built on a small island. Called on Lt O’Neill the Consul, and also on Acting Governor. Took up my stay to a great extent at O’Neills, both he and his wife very pleasant. O’Neill, a man full of information, a great traveller and a Gold Medallist of R.G.S.. His writings are well put together. He and I are suffering from our eyes, the constant glare. Mine are a veritable thorn in the flesh.
On Thursday coaled and that evening attended a reception at Governor’s and danced the opening Quadrille, taking my departure soon after.
Friday 23rd left at daylight for Zanzibar, via Tunghi. The Portuguese have very little hold in the country beyond the fortifications and are great obstructionists to the country being opened up by foreigners, especially being jealous of the English.
Mrs Olivez, wife of a Portuguese Lt in the Army told me her husband got 60 Milreis a month (£12) whilst abroad and £6 at home and found it hard to live on. She is half English and speaks it very well, has had an unhappy life of it. She was married at 13, a mother at 14 and judicially separated at 16 on account of ill usage. She has been obliged to return to her husband as her friends have died. She is a pretty little thing of 17 or 18 now, her child being 3 years old.
Received Mail. It is such a pleasure getting home letters, as I get very lonely at times. Pray dear Rob may be preserved from Yellow Fever as he is in the midst of it at Jacksonville acting as correspondent for the New York World. Such a pleasure hearing from him.
ARRIVE ZANZIBAR
30 November - Friday
Arrived here on Wednesday, having left Mozambique on Friday last. Monday I looked into Tunghi and Mangani, finding the Portuguese gunboat Liberal there and everything quiet.
On arriving here found Flagship, Agamemnon, Garnet and Algerine. Garnet had been ashore up at Pemba, knocking away a lot of false keel and 200 sheets of copper. Griffon had also been high and dry on a sandbank. Met many old ships on board Agamemnon. Pelham and others.
Dined with the Admiral and heard of our combining with the Germans in blockading the coast to prevent the importation of arms and powder and exportation of slaves; to come into effect tomorrow.
I do not see how it will help the German traders. In the meantime, notwithstanding German and Bismarck’s jealousy, the English company is doing well at Mombasa.
My letter on Kilwa has gone to the Admiralty and FO. Euan Smith said information was very exact. Admiral Deinhard wrote me and I paid him a visit as he wanted to pump me regarding the action of the Möwe at Kilwa. I refused to be drawn.
On board the Garnet a chicken is being reared up, that appeared out of an egg, that had been boiled and about to be eaten by a Mid. Comical.
Many letters on getting here. A paper (New York World) giving a most flattering account of Rob at Jacksonville, saying he was recovering from the Yellow fever. God guide him.
3 December - Monday
Last Friday afternoon a young fellow from the Mission got into a canoe with a native teacher, intending to sail from Chukwani to Mbweni at 3 pm, but it came on a fresh breeze and though only a distance of two miles, they drifted somehow or other out to sea. Saturday and Sunday, boats were out looking for them, but nothing was heard of them until they turned up last night.
It appears they drifted over to the Mainland, not very far from Bagamoyo, and on landing were fired at, but the native teacher called out, they belonged to the Mission and were English. The Liwali, an Arab, said it was right seeing the Missionary cloth and saved them from being killed, and sent them back to Zanzibar in a fishing vessel.
It shows how the English name is respected and as the Arab is going to be rewarded it will do good and go far to neutralise the ill effects of blockade proclamation,
French Mail came in yesterday and I had home letters. One from my charming little friend in Cork asking for an annual subscription for the Lily Cot.
Flagship left yesterday for Mombasa.
5 December - Wednesday
Had a chat with General Mathews and Count Teleki. The former told me all the circumstances concerning the 1000 runaway slaves harboured at Rabai by C.M.S. and it certainly seems to me that Price should have known something of their being there. Jones, I believe made no secret of their being there when asked.
Met Mr Guy Dawnay and Mackenzie at Euan Smith’s; the latter told me he had paid the Arabs £4000 for runaway slaves, so everything is satisfactorily arranged. He told me he knew my dear old father, and that his partner Dawes was a great friend of father’s. This I knew but did not know they were partners.
My eyes trouble me.
How difficult to know how one should comport oneself in the world and towards it, so as to walk a holy life and yet not give needless offence; and yet at the same time, by striving not to give needless offence, falling into compliance with the world. Earnest prayer for guidance and faith in the efficacy of that prayer is our only guide.
6 December - Thursday
Dined last night with Cardale, Captain of Agamemnon. He gave a very nice dinner to eight of us. Had a walk with Pretyman in the afternoon, who gave me a lot of Mediterranean news. Previous to the walk made my visit to the French Hospital. Found Von Bulow nearly well and the poor fellow from the Flagship in great and excruciating pain. Endeavoured to cheer him up a bit, poor fellow.
ON PATROL BETWEEN ZANZIBAR AND MOMBASA
8 December - Saturday
Steaming North to meet the Garnet off Mombasa this morning. The Admiral communicated with me and has given me No 2 beat. What a lively time before one and my eyes, poor inflamed eyes giving me such trouble, though I hardly read anything, I long to be home but must have patience and rest, remembering that God orders all things.
12 December - Wednesday
Steaming back to Melinda to anchor for the night, having been there this morning and paid a visit to the Wali, who was most friendly. We had a long chat together. Saw the Garnet in the distance this morning. Most monotonous, slow and useless this cruising. A political move to please the Germans.
15 December - Saturday
Still employed on this stupid blockading work. Up anchor at 5.15 and after steaming up and down the coast all day, anchoring between 6 and 7 pm.
Yesterday dear Robbie’s birthday. 32 years of age. My eyes giving me trouble again. Sleeping in a draught the cause of it and temperature being so damp.
Feel sure Davenport will end his career in the Service by getting his ship on shore.
Met Garnet this forenoon and exchanged signals with her. Anchored off Melinda for the night.
18 December - Tuesday
Still on this slow blockade. For a change ran into Lamu Roads and anchored at 3 pm. Went into the harbour in the Steam Cutter and passing the village of Shella, saw three white men. Went in and found they had been up country shooting round Kilimanjaro, having been there all year and been fairly successful. Their names were Hunter, Greenfield and xxx, also the Maltese, Martin, who accompanied Thomson, was of their party. We had a chat and most interesting one it was. They had followed Thomson’s track and found everything he had said in his book very correct.
I paid a visit to the Wali at Lamu who was very agreeable and then picking up Kay at Shella returned to the ship.
Yesterday met Mathews and Mackenzie coming North in SS Kilwa, boarded her and had a chat with them.
24 December - Xmas Eve
Met Boadicea last Saturday, dined with Admiral and asked him to let ship go up to Aden and Cossack come down here. Admiral had a long chat with me. I can see that he and Euan Smith are not on the best of terms.
Received mails from home. Not many letters, though E.D. is very regular in writing,
Mr Quick to be invalided.
Have come into Lamu Bay to spend a quiet Xmas Day as since leaving Zanzibar on 6th, the ship has been cruising every day on this most uninteresting cruise.
French Dhows much dislike being boarded. Had to load 5 inch BL and threaten to blow the mast away of one before he allowed my officer on board.
25 December - Xmas Day
Lamu Bay. I have much to be thankful for, reviewing the past year. I anticipated heavy expenses, instead of which they have been the reverse. I have made Prize Money and through God’s blessing been able to provide for the girls for perhaps two years.
I have not that spiritual sanctification and whole heartedness to God that I would wish and must have by His mercy and grace. Anxious cares, disappointed thoughts of cherished hopes and desires blighted, must go. They would have no place if Jesus was my All in All; and by His grace He will be. I look to self too much, and what do I find? Nothing but unlovliness. Look up not down, Look out not in, and the result will be Peace perfect Peace.
Preached a short sermon to men of my own composition. I find it hard carrying on a service with an indifferent congregation. It is throwing pearls before swine.
27 December - Thursday
Yesterday met the Griffon off Ras Ngomeni, and went on board to see Forsyth and had a yarn with him. He told me the Admiral and Euan Smith were nearly cuts. The fact is the Consul General tries to have a finger in everyone’s pie and Everyone does not like it.
Received a communication from the Admiralty enclosing a FO despatch in which Lord Salisbury said he read with much pleasure my commendation of the zeal displayed by Lt Hibbert and Mr Job when slave hunting at Pemba.
Mr Lyall, Mid, will turn out a good officer being zealous and anxious to learn his profession.
1889
AT ZANZIBAR
1 January - Tuesday
Bless the Lord with my soul and all that is within me. Bless His Holy name and forget not all his benefits. This morning, hearing Midnight strike, I got out of bed and asked God to bless me that my life might be dedicated to his service.
When I cast my thoughts back at His mercies to me during the past year, how thankful I should be. Leaving England in debt, with anxious thoughts about my dear sisters, Coffee House, health recovered now, enough money to provide for the girls for two years.
2 January - Wednesday
Last night after dinner went ashore to Euan Smith and had a chat with Count Teleki who is just going home after having made some discoveries in the Interior. Guy Dawnay about to proceed into the Interior. Euan Smith received telegram saying he had received C.B. Some friction discernible between Admiral and E.S., the latter inclined to interfere with the former. Climate here detestable at present, muggy and hot.
3 January - Thursday
Admiral paid me a visit this morning and told me his grievances against Euan Smith, who is rather inclined to work behind the Admiral’s back by wiring to Lord Salisbury. The blockade should be left entirely to the Admiral.
4 January - Friday
Boadicea left yesterday and I am left Senior Naval Officer. Went ashore for a walk. I shall not be sorry at leaving this place, it is very hot and damp and I am quite laid up with my eyes and nose. Met Euan Smiths and drove out to Mbweni with them.
5 January - Saturday
This morning German Flag Lt arrived whilst I was at breakfast and informed me that the Schwalbe had got on shore on Fungu Yasin reef and was in a bad way and that Admiral Deinhard had sent over for assistance. I packed the Woodcock off at once.
6 January - Sunday
Woodcock returned 10 am having assisted to haul Schwalbe off this morning. I fancy she must have knocked about a good deal on the reef from what Walter reports.
Stork came in and Pullen paid me a visit, having met the Admiral on Friday. The Flagship’s pinnace let a Dhow with 46 slaves slip in during the night at Pemba.
Attended Service at English Church. Clark preached a very good sermon, as he afterwards told me when he saw me, he was in fear and trembling. However as I told him he preached straight to the point.
Very disgusting this evening, three of my POs came off drunk, three most steady men. This comes from drinking such poisonous stuff as they get here.
VISIT MOMBASA
7 January - Monday
Agamemnon coming in. Enabled me to get away this afternoon, first embarking Euan Smith, I had Kay, Stanhope, Comber and McAdam into dinner to meet him.
8 January - Tuesday
Provisioned boats off Pemba then steamed North, meeting the Admiral and put into port for the night. Dined in the Wardroom. Lamb very good and new potatoes a great treat. Got out of an English steamer.
Asking for guidance about Petty Officers.
9 January - Wednesday
A great baraza on Penguin poop. The Wali and 20 Arab Sheiks of Mombasa came off. I seated them all and gave them Coffee. A great talk went on about slaves - runaways at Rabai.
MacKenzie, Price and Buchanan breakfasted with me. Price told me that no doubt Jones had kept his eye closed, but the whole thing was very much exaggerated and a defence was coming out.
Woodcock came in bringing a letter to Euan Smith saying Germans were trying to bully the Sultan to cede Lamu, Pate and Manda to them, by orders from their Government. Sultan was temporising - as a matter of fact the Sultan ceded them to us 4 months ago, but it has been kept a dead secret as it was not intended to enforce it unless the Germans made this move.
Went outside, met the Flagship and being too rough to communicate, followed her into Mombasa Harbour.
Euan Smith and I called on Admiral and I was told to take him to Zanzibar.
AT ZANZIBAR
10 January - Thursday
Fine NE breeze. Steaming sent me 9 knots all night and though 1½ knot current against me, got down at 11 am. Found Agamemnon here and took in 30 tons of coal. Lunched with Cardale who told me of Euan Smith and row he had with him. Certainly E.S. told me some lies, to speak plainly.
Paid visit to Hospital. Saw E.S. before coming off. He had received two letters from Mackay from Victoria Nyanza telling of all rows up at Buganda. Missionaries kicked out, Revolution. Wanga prisoner and Arabs in power there.
Much blessed by guidance with regard to the P.O.s
VISITS TO LAMU AND PATROLS BETWEEN LAMU AND MALINDI
13 January - Sunday
Left Zanzibar on Friday morning having coaled the previous day. Met Griffon this morning off Melinda. A sudden coolness in the temperature of 3° has given a lot of men colds, 14 in the list. I myself suffering from one all over. Out of the wind it is still hot, in the wind, cold.
I feel miserable. What comfort to know that my God understands all things, even my petty ailments. I long and must have more self renunciation and completer emptiness of self, before I obtain that perfect peace which passeth all understanding. It is a comfort to know there is a Xtian Officer in the ship, Mr Graham the Gunner.
The Doctor says men have distinctly deteriorated the last 3 months through sea work, want of fresh meat and have no stamina. I think he is mistaken as men look to me remarkably robust. Most of the men invalided have gone home through causes attributable to our Mauritius visit, this the Doctor says; viz. Typhoid and Malaria fever, but no doubt three years on station is too long.
Hibbert told me how they spent Xmas in the Boats at Pemba. They had flour and raisins to make the Duff, but no salt nor pudding bag, and the pot was not very big. So they made three small Duffs and used one of Hibbert’s old Jerseys for pudding bags and boiled in salt water. Unfortunately Hibbert’s jersey was not very strong, and two burst, but the third was very good.
15 January - Tuesday
Weighed this morning under sail and anchored off Kipini at 8 pm. Ship went along very well, the screw being up. Found Stork at anchor.
16 January - Wednesday
Went on shore, a long way in, and when there nothing to be seen or done, Kipini being a collection of huts, steamed back to Lamu and met Mail. Fortunate enough to get a regular budget, and thankful to say all well. A long kind letter from Sir A. Hoskins.
17 January - Thursday
Cruising about under sail.
18 January - Friday
Left Lamu under sail this morning with a smart breeze soon reached Kipini, but found Stork not there so returned to Lamu anchoring at 8 pm - as homeward bound steamer signalled she had letters for us.
So anxious to walk only by faith, the continual fallings and lapses in one’s walk are trials to one’s faith, but we are told to be of good courage and not to be disheartened. My eyes dimmed with tears this afternoon as I pondered over my lack of service and longing for sanctification so unsatisfied.
20 January - Sunday
Met the Griffon this forenoon. Held service, it is most trying to read service knowing so many of the men are indifferent to it all.
At the prayers after evening Quarters not so many as usual joined in the evening hymn. Bluejackets are so very capricious and so childish sometimes. I am afraid they rather look upon it as a forced service, so I must give up having the evening hymn for it does not do for the Captain to be playing and singing unless properly supported.
Yesterday, meeting the Mail, I heard from the Admiral, who told me Lord Salisbury did not intend the Germans to have Lamu. So I had a long and confidential chat with Wali. He seemed to have a clear perception of how matters stood. I told Wali that we did not intend to let the Germans have Lamu and intended protecting the Sultan. I was told not to commit myself too much, rather a difficult thing not to do. The Wali told me Mackenzie said to him “The Germans are coming to take trade and I was to put every hindrance in their way”, which I intend doing.
I have to hang about Lamu so as to be on the spot ready to prevent the Germans from going too far.
21 January - Monday
Paid a visit to the Wali who told me Mr Tuppen, the German, was coming to pay him a visit at 5 pm that day and he (the Wali) will come on board and let me know the result of the interview.
Landed on Manda Island to have a shot at the Partridge; country difficult.
22 January - Tuesday
The Wali and some ten Sheiks came off to the ship. I had them received with all honour and held a Baraza in my cabin, handing coffee and cigarettes round. They were much struck with the men at General Quarters.
I had a long chat with the Wali who told me the German, in 4 days time, was going to call a meeting of all the principal people in Lamu and ask them which they liked, the English or the Germans. He also told the Wali everything was settled about Lamu, that Bismarck had written out saying the Germans were to have it. This news had kept him awake all night and I told him it was not true and assured him England will not allow it. (They left many fleas in my cabin on their departure).
23 January - Wednesday
Left Lamu and anchored in Formosa Bay.
24 January - Thursday
Met Griffon this forenoon at 11 am. Blaxland I should think livery, from his signals.
26 January - Saturday
Sailed down during the night and met Griffon off Ras Ngomeni. Wrote B. a nice little letter as I saw something had upset him, so it made everything alright. I fancy his signalman must have made some mistake in reading off a signal.
27 January - Sunday
Anchored in Lamu Harbour this afternoon and walked with Stanhope from Shella to Lamu. Heard there was an Englishman at the Vice Consulate. and on going there found a man called Stuart Sandys, who is shell insect collecting, but, who told me confidentially he had come here at the request of Euan Smith and Mackenzie to watch what the Germans did.
28 January - Monday
Stuart Sandys lunched with me, he would not go away. I was most anxious to get ashore for a tramp with my gun on Manda Island. At last I asked him to come and only got rid of him at last by going through such thorny thickets that he said he had enough of it and so went back.
30 January - Wednesday
Met Griffon today, heard from Admiral who tells me he and Euan Smith only correspond officially now - sorry there should be so much friction. The Admiral is going to send us to Aden on arrival of Coronet.
31 January - Thursday
This morning I went up to Lamu and had a long conversation with Mr During, native Missionary, who gave me a lot of information which I have embodied in my report on Lamu. It appears Capt Dernhardt, the political adviser of the Sultan of Witu, and Mr Tuppen, Manager of the Witu Company are dead cuts, but they are endeavouring to get the principal people of Lamu to their side, but, though a few have taken up the German cause with their faces, their hearts are English and I have had circulated confidentially amongst the leading people, that England will not allow the Germans to have it.
1 February - Friday
This morning Mr During brought on board Ali Bin Abdullah, the leading man amongst the Arabs, who are under German protection and we had a long conversation together, he telling me he wanted to come under British protection and that, if it can be managed, the others will follow suit and that they really much preferred the English, though they would not be allowed to have slavery.
I told him that though buying and selling would be at once abolished, yet, domestic slaves would not be at once released.
Wrote a long confidential letter to the Admiral giving a description of what I had done, by keeping up and fostering British Interests and not doing so in a compromising manner.
3 February - Sunday
Met the Griffon yesterday and discharged Mr Lyall, Mid, to her for Flagship. He is a zealous young fellow.
This morning before Divisions, Mr Tuppen the Manager of the Witu Company came to see me about some arms I had taken out of a German Dhow. Visit passed off amicably. Found out he was on his way to Zanzibar to endeavour to get Customs at Lamu.
Yesterday coming on deck at 3 pm I saw we were rather close to the shore and looking, saw signs of reefs not 200 yards off our lee beam and running ahead. I at once put helm over, especially as I saw the bottom distinctly. Lt Davenport ought to have been knocking about the deck but he is very lazy and lacks zeal, yet withal very self opiniated. I believe if I had not come on deck, ship would have struck in a ¼ of an hour. I went down to my cabin and thanked God for His Mercy and goodness in preserving the ship.
4 February - Monday
This morning I went up to Lamu and had a long interview with the Wali and Mr During. It appears on Saturday last that Mr Tuppen endeavoured to get the Elders to sign a document stating that they desired the Germans to farm the customs of Lamu, instead of the English. This they refused to do and now Mr Tuppen has gone off to Zanzibar to try his luck there.
5 February - Tuesday
Came down to Ras Ngomeni to meet the Griffon tomorrow morning and conveying letters from Wali to the Sultan telling him not to believe Mr Tuppen’s representations if he says the people of Lamu are favourable to the Germans.
I wish I could hear from the Admiral. My only instructions came in a private note of the 16th January, since which I have been playing off my own bat, and I hope it will meet with the approval of my Superiors.
Sailed down today, a nice breeze.
6 February - Wednesday
Met the Flagship this forenoon and persuaded the Admiral to let me go down to Pemba on Sunday for a week. This morning we got the anchor up so badly that I ran it out to a clinch.
9 February - Saturday
On Wednesday last, the Flagship turned up instead of the Griffon and I went to see the Admiral, and had a long chat with him on various subjects. From telegrams he showed me it is very evident that the Germans are getting tired of the blockade and would like to retire graciously from it.
Have been cruising under sail since Thursday.
10 February - Sunday
Met the Flagship (Boadicea) off Ras Ngomeni and receiving orders from her, proceeded down to Mombasa.
11 February - Monday
Communicated with Griffon outside Mombasa and received poor Lt Cooper’s things for passage to England, the same who was killed in taking a slave Dhow last October.
Went into Mombasa, landed stewards, as we had nothing on board.
Saw Lang of the Reindeer, and down to Pemba.
Yesterday, making sail, Stanhope sprung the Maintopsail Yard, the second one he has done the same thing to. Shifted it very quickly.
14 February - Thursday
Been cruising down Pemba every day and having a fine moon make a late anchorage of it sometimes. I do not think there are any slaves being run at the moment, though they are needed as cloves are rotting on the ground for lack of labour.
I shall be very glad at getting home again, having so much to settle. The want of a home I feel very much at times. The memory of the past comes into my mind at times and what I have lost, and I feel none of the younger ones of the family can know what it was. But again isolation has done me good. It has been the means of making me a Christian and my most earnest prayer is that day by day I may grow in Grace and holiness and walk by faith in all things. What obstacles lie in our path, how weary we get, but how strengthened when we look not inwards, but outwards, up not down, forward not backward. God will give us strength. As our day so shall our strength be.
17 February - Sunday
Just anchored off Mkokotoni for the night having left Pemba this afternoon at 2 pm. Stanhope seedy.
AT ZANZIBAR
20 February - Wednesday
On Monday arrived at Zanzibar. All well. Received Mails.
Sailed down to Mbweni with Admiral and walked back accompanied most of the way by Bishop Smythies, a very pleasant man. I had a pleasant chat with him on Missions generally.
This afternoon sailed down to Kingani, had a long theological talk with Jones and Bateman and walked back to town with Curzon.
21 February - Thursday
Admiral signalled for me this afternoon and told me that English and German Governments had wired out to know what they could suggest to take the place of the blockade as it was intended to raise it very shortly. I told the Admiral that I still adhered to what I had written in August last; by either a more complete blockade of the Islands of Pemba and Zanzibar, or the total abolishment of slavery under conditions similar to those carried out in Brazil; pointing out how the measure could be carried out, compensation and labour found. I also pointed out how the Northern trade might be met.
The Admiral quite concurred and said nothing about my letter which he has had in his possession since August last. “You must not mind my picking your brains.”
Euan Smith told me when on board here for a cruise some time ago he had written, curiously enough, almost as I had. I said “I think you saw my letter”, he replied “Oh No, not that part.” The answer told me he had, besides which the Admiral told me he had shown it to him. I do not mind who gets the credit, as long as the slave question is gone at and a blow struck at the trade.
Had a walk with Curzon who told me of all his troubles with the Admiral and that he had written once tendering his resignation, but Admiral begged him to withdraw it. He is most bitter against the Admiral. I advised Curzon to go, as the relations are and have not been for long such as they should be between Admiral and Flag Captain.
Attended reception at Euan Smith and had a yarn with Clarke on ritual and Bishop Smythies on work, and agreed with him that Missionaries should scorn to fly danger.
23 February - Saturday
I paid a visit to Kingani Mission yesterday afternoon and inspected all the buildings, schools etc. I was much pleased at what I saw. The new Arch Deacon, Jones-Bateman, is managing very well. The children sang for me in the church and in the school room. I spoke a few words to them in the Church.
Dined with Admiral. A big dinner, German Admiral, French Commodore, Euan Smith, Bishop, Sir John Kirk and Miss Kirk. Very hot at dinner, a great relief to get into the open air.
Band played vigorously for Miss Kirk’s benefit, until just after midnight. She danced away, energetic and roses in her cheeks, just out from England. Montgomorie monopolising her, much to our amusement. No one else stood a chance. German Flag Lt, Doctor and Mid had to succumb to his freezing glances.
I had a long talk with Bishop on baptism during dinner.
ON PATROL IN VICINITY OF LINDI
28 February - Thursday
At Lindi. I left Zanzibar on Monday 2 pm, going out under sail. A difficult operation as I had a barque only a ship’s length astern of me. However I laid out a hawser to the Woodcock from my bow and loosing sails, backed sails on the Mainmast, hauling on the hawser as soon as the anchor was tripped. I managed to clear the barque and backing sails on Foremast cleared the Flagship and eventually got round, heaving to, in order to cat my anchor. It was difficult work hauling in hawsers. heaving on Capstan and making sail. So short of complement and two boats away cruising.
Yesterday it blew and rained very heavily. I anchored here and met Algerine on the evening. Forsyth dined with me and Wardroom officers of Algerine dined in our Wardroom.
Everything quiet here, but Chief men have sent to say it is not safe to land as the inland tribes will fire on any white men.
Last Sunday, 24th, I had the mate of SS Mount Tabor, Mr Dalzell and some of his men, also some men from an American whaling barque came on board to service.
In my cabin I had a chat with Mr Dalzell on Sunday labour, saying how much it was coming into vogue in the merchant service. He said “Yes” and said “I have been 23 years at sea and my experience is that a ship that spends Sunday quietly does just as well, if not better, that those that work on Sunday. I served under Captain Maclean of the Buenos Ayres, one of the Allan Line, for two years and his experience after 2 years work was that his ship had cleared as much as any other and he never did more than he was obliged to on a Sunday. He is now owner of a line of Steam ships the Straits Line in Glasgow proving the truth of God’s word - Them that honour me, I will honour.”
Mr Dalzell said it is generally the shipmasters and not the ship owners that force Sunday work, on account of competition.
Attended service at Cathedral, heard Bishop Smythies preach; had a chat with him afterwards, then walk with Curzon and dined with the Admiral.
2 March - Saturday
Msimbati. Yesterday I met the German ship Schwalbe off Kiswere. Captain paid me a visit and we arranged future meetings.
Foolishly came into this place this afternoon on a strong spring flood tide, through a narrow channel between reefs and shoals. Davenport nearly put her onto a coral reef, mistaking it for an overfall of tide, but I insisted it was a reef and sure enough it was. We only just cleared it.
Like a brute I spoke unnecessarily very sharply to my steward, Oliver. I thought he appeared very down and made him come out of the pantry, as I surmised he had been weeping. I spoke kindly to him and he began again. However I made it alright, and finally telling him how sorry I was at hurting his feelings and he must forget all about it. He cheered up and I gave him a knife taken in the last captured Dhow, as a memento. I think it will do good for it has shown me how harsh and unfeeling one gets and I shall take a more personal interest in Oliver now.
Landed on Majanwa Island. Saw and shot one pigeon.
3 March - Sunday
Remained on board and employed some of my time writing Expository Thoughts, by Mackintosh on Exodus, out for E.D’s and Lel’s benefit.
5 March - Tuesday
Met the Schwalbe off Kiswere this day and received Mails. Heard from the girls, and Lady Hall, the latter telling me all the money for the Coffee House had gone and Gregory had given notice. I have lots to think about.
6 March - Wednesday
This forenoon two Askari came off from the Akida, asking me if I would let the Akida and his 32 soldiers go to Zanzibar. I sent my Interpreter on shore to the Akida to say he had better come off to see me.
The Mail steamer Baghdad arrived at 10 am and I saw some Bamairs and Hindis go on board, so I steamed over to her and anchored alongside of her, going on board. I interviewed the Bamairs and found out that the Akida and his soldiers, as they say, cannot get food and have not received pay for months. The Bamairs in a most mortal funk all the time and refused to come on board Penguin as all communication with men of war is forbidden. In fact I was told that the chief of one village was in prison for allowing canoes to come off to me with eggs.
At 4 pm the second Akida came off to me and desired leave to go though the blockade and showed me a letter from Sultan of Zanzibar, ordering all soldiers to Zanzibar. I refused to let them go, but said I would write for Information at once, by steamer. The Arab was very angry, but I managed to pacify him and gave him coffee and cigarettes, and at last he said he would wait for 8 days and then he’d come out and I must take the consequences (I shall make them prisoner). He said he only wanted my permission and did not care a bit for the Germans, however I was firm and told him I was ready to take the consequences.
He said he could not get any food, but I told him he could get as he had hitherto, by requisitioning the Hindis and I shall ask Sultan to reimburse them. I find from Hindis that the Akida and his men have no power in Lindi, but that two Swahilis rule the roost and give all orders.
I wrote by Mail steamer to the Admiral officially and privately, and also to Euan Smith saying one of Sultan’s steamers should be sent down at once to remove his soldiers, otherwise further complications may arise as this is German Territory and we shall get mixed up in their rows if we are not careful.
8 March - Friday
A rat ran up a Marine’s leg inside his breeches, whilst he was lashing up his hammock. He gave a yell and another man came to his rescue and the vermin was killed.
I nearly ran a Dhow down, in fact did, this afternoon. I am thankful to say no damage was done, fortunately she got a little to one side of my stem and so was brushed aside. I was turning vessel round head to sea and Dhow got frightened and tried to cross my bow.
9 March - Saturday
Did not see any Germans off Kiswere, so returned and anchored off Lindi. Heavy rain squalls from the SW, the precursor of the SW Monsoon.
This afternoon Kay, being on the poop, opened a conversation with me on death and evidently something made a deep impression on him. We had a most interesting conversation and God helped me point out the way to the Lord Jesus. Is this not an answer to my prayers for the officers and men? I believe it is and thank God. Grant me singleness of heart and simplicity of faith.
12 March - Tuesday
No news yet from Zanzibar, so I simply get underway about 9 am and go for a short cruise outside Lindi, returning to anchorage about 5 pm.16 March - Saturday
Reindeer turned up this morning. Lang told me that Euan Smith had sent my private letter to Cardale about the Akida not being allowed to leave Lindi and that Cardale was very angry at not hearing from me. As a matter of fact I had written both publicly and privately to the Admiral, who unfortunately was not at Zanzibar when mail arrived, so Cardale thought I should have written to him.
I am very much annoyed with Euan Smith for showing my private letter giving him the information he asked for, well knowing what mischief he might make. Lang says that both Cardale and Euan Smith think I have done wrong in not allowing the Akida to leave. We shall see.
DEPART ZANZIBAR
23 March - Saturday
Steaming to Aden to relieve Osprey and await our relief, the Pigeon at the same place, due about May 10th. Ship vibrating a good deal through motions of screw, makes it difficult writing.
Last Saturday 16th we left Lindi and on Sunday arrived at Zanzibar in the evening. I dined with the Admiral and after dinner he told me he thought I had done quite right in not allowing the Akida and his soldiers to leave Lindi, under present circumstances; and he said he had received that afternoon from the German Admiral saying how much obliged he was to him for the Akida not being allowed out, and still more so to Hall.
Euan Smith, the Agent and Consul General, I am much annoyed with for having asked me particularly to send him a private line saying how things were going on. He should have been most careful, knowing how sensitive Cardale and the Admiral are, not to have sent my letter off. Happily no mischief was done for as the Admiral said, he knew I was much too loyal to work behind his back, and I soon made it right with Cardale.
Monday I dined with the Admiral and had a long talk about our movements. He told me that he would let me go immediately Pigeon arrived on station.
Am affected with a large boil on a most awkward part of my body. Oliver ill in my cabin with fever.
Tuesday 18th. Gave a dinner party to Curzon-Howe, Cardale, Arbuthnot, Martin and Pelham. Went off very well.
Wednesday 20th. I dined at Agency, a farewell dinner, the Admiral and a few others being there. I ignored the Lindi business altogether as I wanted to part good friends with Euan Smith and he proposed my health in a nice little speech. I replied appropriately, making them laugh a good deal by some Shakespearean quotations - and we had a very pleasant evening.
Thursday 21st. Delayed by having to sit on a Court Martial to try three men for attempting to break out of Flagship (Boadicea) at 11 30 pm. Cdr Montgomorie went down the ladder and told them not to make fools of themselves, but two of them attempted to fight Montgomorie, one of the strongest men in the service. He knocked them both down, stunning one of them, and they got a good mauling, although they were strong stout rascals. We gave two five years penal servitude and one 3 months imprisonment.
At 4 pm. Up anchor, the band of the Flagship playing Capstan Tunes for us and away we steamed our paying off pennant flying out well; round the Flagship receiving hearty cheers, and the band playing Home Sweet Home and Auld Lang Syne. More cheers from the Agamemnon, French, Portuguese and German; and at 5 pm we were fairly turned towards Aden steaming along at 8 knots, and I am thankful to say, our back towards Zanzibar.
My boil prevents me getting much rest and I had to take a special chair to Court Martial this morning.
Have 12 prisoners and 16 Invalids on board, including men tried this morning. Oliver well again.
30 March - Saturday
Rounded Cape Guardafui this forenoon, within a couple of miles. Very bold and barren with mountains about 300 ft high. Just getting over my affliction of boils, which have caused me much inconvenience and trouble.
ARRIVE ADEN
4 April - Thursday
On Sunday passed Ras Alula and sighted two Italian men of war at anchor. I interchanged signals, asking them if they wish to be reported, upon which they replied “No, I thank you.”
On Monday I arrived at Aden and moved in the Inner Harbour, finding Osprey in here. Gissing in no hurry to be off.
Made calls on the Brigadier General Hogg, finding him a most pleasant person. His two nieces, Misses Tanner, are staying with him.
Tuesday. More calls and that evening attended a dance given by General Hogg in honour of the Osprey’s. Gissing having an attack of fever did not go. I left early.
Wednesday. More calls and callers on me. Osprey sailed and we cheered her, she returned ditto. Attended evening prayers at Garrison Chapel. Wilkinson, a very young fellow officiated, he being Garrison Chaplain. Rather lofty I think, always bowing to the Communion Table on passing it.
4 April - Thursday
Stanhope and I drove out to the Isthmus to see Polo match between the 33rd and Station, the latter won.
7 April - Sunday
Dined last night at General Hogg’s and after dinner sat out in the open air and chatted. No one of much interest dining.
This morning Wilkinson (Garrison Chaplain) quite a young fellow, came on board and preached. He is very earnest, but his sermon lacked the one thing needed - Jesus Christ. He is evidently very ritualistic. I took the Holy Communion this morning.
8 April - Monday
Yesterday afternoon the MM Rio Grande came in bringing the Euan Smiths, en route to England, I had a pleasant chat with them. They kindly brought me some Zanzibar oranges.
The Mail came in soon afterwards and I received a budget, including a very nice one from Lady Hope, ref. the Coffee House, and a characteristic one from Spurgeon.
My boil pained me so much last night I got no sleep and feel much done up.
Dined at Camp with Molyneux of West Riding Regt, meeting Captain Gordon of the Indian Army who is in charge of the Aden Troop. A fine fellow, he is a nephew of the late General Gordon, brother to one in RE, his father being Sir H Gordon. We got into a very serious talk.
Visited Dr Paterson of the Keith Falconer Mission, who is very ill at Civil Hospital.
13 April - Saturday
Since yesterday have been under Doctor’s hands, My boil on leg being so bad that three nights I could get no rest. No joke in this climate. So yesterday he cut me and ever since I have been under poultices. It is a nasty place and gave me much pain, besides feeling very run down.
15 April - Monday
Still laid up with my leg. Boil being very tiresome, but hope soon to be alright
Last night the Severn and two Torpedo boats came in bound for Singapore. Captain Hall of Severn came on board and had a long yarn with me this afternoon and told me a lot of news at Admiralty.
17 April - Wednesday
Hall dined with me last night and this morning he left for Colombo. He told me that last year’s evolutions were based on the relative strengths of the English and French navies corresponding to A and B Squadrons, and that Sir Arthur Hood did not know this until afterwards and was much annoyed when he found it out.
I read on board the Severn the Confidential letter from the Cabinet to the Admiralty.
1st. As to force necessary for defending the coasts of England from invasion, preventing Gib and Malta from bombardment.
1. Against France alone.
2. Against France and Russia combined. In the latter case Constantinople to be defended.
The answer is most interesting. Blockading the enemy is out of the question. We have not enough ships, so a plan of observation is to be adopted, i.e. our squadron is to be ¼ stronger than the enemy’s which of course means being nearly equal. 24 Battle Ships are to be stationed at Gibraltar to watch 19 at Toulon. Another Squadron at Portland or Plymouth to watch French at Brest, and a Reserve at Spithead.
Looking over this Confidential letter most carefully I do not wonder at Government being alarmed and asking for an extra £2,000,000 for Navy. This is the minimum required, and, in my opinion, it means sailing close to the wind, for our Gib Squadron are practically 1200 miles from their base, and both our squadrons always lying with banked fires, and liable to false alarms. What heavy responsibility will lay on our look out Squadron.
PATROL IN SOUTH PART OF RED SEA
27 April - Saturday
Rather behind in my journal. Last Thursday week, the 18th inst, I left Aden, making as if for the South. When out of sight of the town, I steered up the Red Sea passing Perim by night so as to be off Mocha by daylight, for I had received information that a caravan of Abyssinian slaves was expected down daily on the coast.
Saturday 20th. I put into Perim and found they had not left the coast, but, that since Osprey’s capture, the slave dealers were very wily and ran along the shore and behind the group of Islands. Jebel Hanish and Jebel Zukur.
I steamed down during the night as far as Jebel Zukur, the wind blowing very hard up the Red Sea. At daylight I made my way back against a gale and nasty sea and that night arrived at Beilul Bay, where I anchored for the night, and boarding a Dhow gathered enough information to convince me that the 160 slaves, mostly girls, had been taken across to Hodeidah and Jeddah. In fact the ground to be covered (much of it amongst reefs) 100 miles by 30 miles is too much for any ship and, as when it is blowing, the Dhows run 9 to 10 knots, and that at night. It is evident it is no easy matter catching them, as they only take 3 hours getting across and cannot be seen by night more than half a mile off, and in the meantime you may be 80 miles off.
The thermometer was 91° at Beilul, the Wet Thermometer being 81°; so as fast as you perspired, so fast it dried from you.
RETURN ADEN
Tuesday 23rd. I arrived off Aden, and putting up a target at the back of the Rock, carried out my Prize Firing, making excellent practice at 1500 yards; the 64 pdr getting in 11 shots in 7 minutes and going very close each time. 3 into the target (40 ft by 15 ft), after which I returned to harbour and received our mail. All well at home I am thankful to say.
Thursday went up to the Residency, General Hogg, to stay. He and his nieces, the Misses Farmers, very pleasant.
5 May - Sunday
Had a bright service on board this morning, The Captain of SS Derbyshire came on board and was evidently much impressed by the service. We had a long interesting chat in my cabin. He said he felt he was letting things of this world choke him up. I urged on him the duty of honouring God by observing the Sabbath,
Captain Balfour of Heroine which arrived last night, came and paid me a visit after church.
Last night I dined at the R.A. mess with Captain Mein B.M.. We had after a dinner a long and interesting conversation together, he rather defended Agnosticism, saying he could not take things on faith. I told him my experience of things.
At the Hospital (Civil) a young fellow called Hill told me that he had had so much religious teaching in his youth, being made to learn the scriptures as a punishment, that when he was old enough, he never opened them in consequence. I am quite certain it is a great mistake, forcing children to learn the Scriptures as a task. Gun is doing well at hospital as are the other patients.
6 May - Monday
Wilkinson the Chaplain and Johnson (Engineer) dined with me last night. We had an interesting talk. After which I drove up to the General’s for to sleep, on account of coaling ship this morning. Up all night with an attack of diarrhoea.
Captain of Meteor (French) told me that the Italians had given 30,000 francs to the owner of the slaves captured by Osprey. There is obviously no love lost between French and Italians.
8 May - Wednesday
Ranger signalled.
I went ashore at 8 30 am and drove out to Sheikh Othman, 8 miles, to see the Free Church Mission. I found Mr Lockhead and Rev Mr Gardner at breakfast, who made me welcome and afterwards we paid a visit to the Mission House, where some 50 Gallas, boys and girls, are being brought up. They were part of the 200 odd captured by the Osprey, and come from just south of Abyssinia. The Gallas are of Semitic race and I was very much struck with the marked intelligence on their faces; so superior to the Swahilis and South Africans. They sang very sweetly, having soft voices, some old hymns for me. They certainly looked very bright and sharp, and I was told by the Mission people they were all being most anxious to learn and very quick. They also differ from the Hamitic children in being very moral and truthful and affectionate and not quarrelsome. One little fellow, on being asked if he would like to see his mother again, burst into tears.
From what I have seen of the children out here, and races, I think the Gallas are the race to evangelise the natives through, if they can be got at. The Gallas have in remote ages been christianised by Abyssinians in a way, but now only have a belief in spirits.
The two Eunuchs died at Mission.
On returning went on board and had a yarn with my chum Sam Johnson of Ranger who succeeds me as Senior Officer.
Pigeon came in yesterday evening. A nice looking craft.
9 May - Thursday
MM Steamer came in from Zanzibar this evening and to our intense disgust brought me orders to wait for the B & I due on the 20th, which was bringing up Court Martial Prisoners including Sugden, lately dismissed by C.M. from Turquoise for getting her ashore. I had made all preparations for leaving on Friday 11 am and bitter was our disappointment at being ordered to stop.
14 May - Tuesday
Been laid up since Friday having got a chill which gave me Diarrhoea, sickness, neuralgia and liver, and am just getting over it now. Very mean I have been, feeling the heat very much and getting little sleep. Thermometer over 90° and rather damp.
16 May - Thursday
Hope the British India Steamer will turn up tomorrow in which case I will be off for England. I don’t think I will pick up now until I am in the Mediterranean D.V.
The rats are getting once more a great nuisance. Last night Stanhope was sitting in a chair about 11 30 pm, when he woke up by finding a rat sitting on his shoulder.
Took a drive with Hewett in his dog cart, his horse shying at everything in the road, most uncomfortable.
My prickly heat very bad, prevents my sleeping well.
17 May - Friday
2 pm (Thermometer 90° in shade).
Anxiously looking out for the British India from Zanzibar.
Last night had a sudden sand storm. Lasted a couple of hours and covered everything in sand; at one time the sand was very thick in the air.
This morning whilst Stanhope was standing on the Poop one of the numerous small fish round the ship jumped right out of the water on to his shoulder, about 20 ft high, and fell on the deck, having a piece bitten out of it by a larger fish, who also jumped as high as the davits in pursuit.
DEPART ADEN
20 May - Monday
Steaming 9 knots up the Red Sea. I left Aden on Saturday 5 pm and found it very warm on Sunday, a light following wind. Had a very short service.
The heat at Aden has touched most of us and that with 18 months of very little vegetable food has given me a formidable attack of prickly heat, developing into small boils, 13 of which I have on my head alone - comment is unnecessary. I have now had boils for 3 months.
The B & I steamer on Saturday brought me Mails from the Admiral and a most handsome memorandum on the way the ship had worked.
22 May - Wednesday
Very seedy from boils and system generally run down. Yesterday very warm.
TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL
25 May - Saturday
Arrived at Suez 2 am this morning and at 10 am entered the Canal anchoring in Lake Timsah for the night.
26 May - Sunday
Had a dreadfully busy day having to gare up at every station. Much to my disgust I had to cut my service short on this account, I was holding it in my Cabin on account of the cold.
It is a luxury getting from 90° into 68° to 70° Thermometer, with blankets at night and it is quite picking me up again and doing me much good.
Arrived at Port Said 7 pm and my pilot fouled me of Fearless, damaging my screw slightly. I had to take things out of his hand.
Carey and Brenton paid me a short visit.
27 May - Monday
Had lunch with Brenton and a long chat. He told me he had left the C of E and had service in his cabin for Wesleyans and Presbyterians. He holds a Bible Class every evening in his cabin, and had an average of 5 or 6 attending. The Sailors rest he has started, I think will do well. He tells me he finds it very hard to keep out of debt, something like me.
Had a lot of letters from home, and shall have a lot to do with regard to Coffee House and also I fear pay something towards the Empire Club, being Executor for my dear father. I shall do what is just and right.
AT MALTA
9 June - Sunday
Behind in my journal. On Monday 3rd we arrived at Malta and made fast to the buoy at Somerset Dock. The Phaeton, Heroine, Landrail, and Starling in. I paid my visit to Admiral Buller and went ashore to look for Edward Grogan. Found him at the Army Pay Office, Strada Forni, looking very well.
He told me of dear Francie’s baby having died, but he had no news later than May 17th, so I telegraphed Ted Banbury asking how Francie was. He replied “Flourishing.” I was much relieved in mind.
I dined with the Bullers on Monday night and stayed the rest of my time at the Grogans. Ida looking very well, is going to have another baby in September. Blanche and the children very well. Aileen very active. I do not think she will be pretty, but she is very sharp and bright and lots to say for herself. I am very fond of her for dear Meta’s sake. Gerald and Ethel have Forman features. Ida is such a good mother to Meta’s children.
Thursday and Friday occupied the whole of both days at two Courts Martial. First on Sub Lt Cave, Officer of the Watch on board the Surprise when she sank the SS Nesta, the second on Bourke, Cdr of Surprise.
Cave had not a leg to stand on, the two steamers, steering at right angles. Cave saw her 20 miles before the collision and then forgot all about her and in fact until the Surprise struck the Nesta on her Port Quarter, no one in either ship noticed they were running into each other. The Surprise engines were going ahead, when she was half way through Nesta and brought up by the screw shaft of Nesta.
It was gross negligence on the part of Cave. He lost all seniority (2 years), dismissed his ship and severely reprimanded. Bourke was of course in no way to blame and secured his ship very promptly and well. The Court acquitted him and desired to mark their high appreciation of the way in which he secured damaged parts and brought her into Malta.
Last night I left Malta for Gib, having spent a very pleasant time there and made the acquaintance of Major and Mrs Sherard, and all the Wiseleys. The father has been 27 years Presbyterian Minister at Malta. Knew dear Meta well, and told me some astonishing stories of the tremendous power of the Jesuits at Rome and at Malta. A few months ago they stopped all education at Malta, in the way of allowing the Maltese to learn to read and write their own language, which had been going on for 7 years. He also told me some astonishing stories of the awful importunes carried on by some Sicilian Jesuits. Some three years ago when the Bishop had one case of stigmata investigated, it was found to be chicken’s blood. On reporting this to Rome, the Jesuits had so much power that he was removed. At present every member of the Government is a Roman Catholic and the Jesuits practically rule Malta.
AT GIBRALTAR
17 June - Monday
At 6 am on Saturday we arrived and made fast to the New Mole, Gibraltar and took in a little coal. I paid my visit to Captain St John and dined with him that night, meeting Mrs St John and the two young ladies; eldest engaged to Marsden, a young fellow in the King’s Royal Rifles. The mother and two daughters rather empty I should think, but pleasant people and lively.
Sunday I took Communion at the Cathedral and in the afternoon Hibbert and I drove out to the cemetery, I to see Uncle George’s grave and Hibbert to see a young brother. Uncle George died 22.1.87 aged 52.
In the evening I went to a meeting at the Soldiers’ Institute and with several of the men bore witness to our Lord, giving a reason of my hope.
This afternoon I got underway at 3 pm just as Heroine rounded the Mole.
26 June - Wednesday
I left Gibraltar on Monday the 17th and got home after a passage of six days, the last two being in fog.
Just as I left the New Mole, the Heroine rounded it and as I moved the engines ahead, a boat came alongside and passed a letter up for me. I went ahead again and glanced through the letter, found it was from Frank Hookey, my first cousin whom I had not heard of for years. He wrote telling me he was 3rd mate of the Lisbon, a steamer engaged in Spanish and Portuguese trade and he had seen in the papers I was on my way home.
The Lisbon was at anchor not 300 yards off my ship during my stay at Gibraltar. I suppose he did not like to make himself known on account of his stupid and foolish conduct in running through his money (he evidently does not know me). I was just able to make him out with my Binoculars. We waved our Hats to each other.
On passing across Channel from Ushant to Plymouth, fogs and easterly wind met us and quite laid me up with wretched nose and eyes. Made me quite low.
On Sunday evening, the 16th, the fog lifting we made out the Lizard and that evening at 11 pm anchored in the Sound.
AT PLYMOUTH
On Monday we went outside again for our Full Speed Trial and on coming into harbour were soon full of wives, sisters and sweethearts and at 2 pm we went into Barnpool.
Everything uncertain about our movements. We have been surveyed by Dockyard to see whether we are fit for Surveying Service or not. Report is most favourable, so most likely to go round to Sheerness to pay off. Most hard on the men, she being a West Country ship.
Buz came down on Tuesday to stay with me, looking very well.
3 July - Wednesday
No news of the ship. Came down to Devonport until the night of the 28th and off I had to go on Saturday at 10 am leaving Oliver my steward behind for I had given him leave to go to Teignmouth to see his mother who is ill.
Buz and I paid a visit to the cemetery and saw the tomb of our loved ones before leaving.
I left the Sound at 11 am and with fine weather and smooth water, steamed 10½ knots all the way to Sheerness, the Admiral Sir William Dowell, having told me I ought to be at Sheerness Sunday night. I passed through the Downs Sunday Forenoon, the cliffs, towns, country and numerous ships made a very pleasing sight. I passed the Valorous in Downs easily.
On arriving at Nore found Northampton, Hercules and Rupert awaiting the arrival of the Shah on Monday. I proceeded up to Black Stakes and had supper with an old family friend, Admiral Lethbridge, who was so glad to see me, and after a little talk, said he would inspect me on Wednesday, as he could not before. On my pointing out that it would bring us very close to mobilisation, he said “I’ll not inspect you at all and will inform the Admiralty.” I should think a unique case of a ship coming home and not being inspected.
ARRIVE SHEERNESS
On the Monday came into Basin. I rushing about everywhere managed to get 80 men from Barracks and 14 Stokers. Not bad.
Find I cannot pay off before the 18th of this month.
7 July - Sunday
Last Wednesday E.D. and Lel came down to the ship with Miss Georgy Stapleton. We had a most enjoyable day together lunching on board the ship and having tea with the Lethbridges at Admiralty House. The Admiral came to the ship two or three times to see the girls. Hibbert lunched with us.
I took the girls for a run in the Steam Cutter and went on board the Northampton. They much enjoyed themselves and I also enjoyed much pleasure at seeing the dear girls together. We had a little prayer in my cabin thanking God for His great goodness in bringing us together once more. The girls looking very well and happy and full of sprits, may God bless them.
I saw them off at 7 55 pm for town. Buz I am glad to say is still with me. Miss G. Stapleton, a nice girl. Looks pretty at times. That evening Buz and I had a little prayer together.
On the previous day (Tuesday) I had sat on a Court Martial and met Kelham and Niblett. On the next day went to C.M. as Prosecutor to try Mackenzie AB for his misdeeds at Malta. 1. Drunk. 2. Breaking out of ship. 3. Using threatening language to his superior officer. 4. Lifting up a weapon. Prisoner pleaded guilty. Sentence 18 months hard labour. Dismissed the Service.
Custance writes me that he is anxious I should take some Carrier Pigeons with me during the manoeuvres. I am delighted to take them.
Down with my influenza, a great trial, on Friday and Saturday. No one knows how trying I find it, but keep it as quiet as I can so that it shall not operate against me in the Service. It is really a thorn in my flesh. So be it. Sometimes I feel very lonely and desolate and wish I had a home of my own. I want someone who is ‘All in all’ to me and I to her, maybe if so, it would not be good. I could not stand her loss or further trials in that way.
E.D., I am glad to say went with Lady Hall to Garden Party at Marlborough House.
A cluster of sad memories about this time of year. June 29th our sainted mother left us leaving an unfulfilled void in my heart. This day, dear Russell (7 July) and on the 29th our dear old father, a head and shoulders above men.
Took Communion with dear Buz this forenoon. He is a dear fellow, very affectionate and I hope is gong to do well at Cambridge.
9 July - Tuesday
Buz and I went to town this morning by early train, an unusual hour for Buz to rouse up, and had pleasant meeting with the girls.
Called at Admiralty. Met Lord Walter Kerr at entrance and thanked him for appointment. He told me I only just arrived in time. Then saw Custance, who told me the Admiralty had forgotten to appoint anyone to Racoon and that is how I got it. Had an interview with Stansfield, Sir Vesey Hamilton’s Private Secretary, who could not tell me where Stanhope was going, but told me Abdy was to be my Executive Officer, but I was to say nothing about it as Captain Bedford of Britannia might make a row and fuss.
From Admiralty rejoined girls and Buz at Co-Op and had lunch there with Lel. I called on the Kennedys and had a chat with them. K. the same as ever. Alice grown very plain, but I believe a very nice girl. Saw an ideal painting of Alice on ivory, very pretty, but not a bit like. Fortunately Lel gave me a hint as to who it was meant for.
Called on Lady Fremantle and then at 4 20 met Ted Banbury at St Pancras and went down to The Hyde, near Luton. A most beautiful house, I’ve seen, a very pretty park and Madame de Falbe’s place, Luton Hoo is nearly opposite. It belongs to Mr Lyon, second son of Lord Stamford and Mrs Banbury has rented it for a year.
Very bad with influenza and talking with Francie I quite broke down, feeling so low and thinking of family losses. Returned to town, found the girls and Buz waiting up for me.
11 July - Thursday
Returned to ship yesterday, having gone about town with Buz.
This afternoon had 5 o’clock tea with the Fanes, meeting a very nice girl there, Miss Cowell, daughter of Sir John Cowell.
12 July - Friday
Very bad with influenza caught through a draught blowing on my back at dinner last night at mess. Eye much inflamed.
I had 5 o’clock tea today on board Sapphire meeting the Fanes and Miss Cowell.
I omitted to mention that on Wednesday I had an interview with Lady Hope regarding the Coffee House. She was very pleasant and at last the arrangement come to was that Lady Hope would run the whole thing if I could raise a guarantee of £200, to try the experiment for a couple of years. So I must make to.
Much tried at dinner by draught.
14 July - Sunday
My eyes still bad yesterday. Suffered much discomfort. Delighted at getting a letter from Dr MacDonald saying my case is hopeful; shall see him on Wednesday.
Some of the appointments out. Stanhope to Narcissus, Mr Adam to Arethusa, Davenport to Sandfly.
20 July - Saturday
At Spithead. This last week has been most busy one for me. On Monday last we were busy getting Penguin ready for paying off.
Tuesday. Osborne of the Steam Reserve inspected the ship and she was beautifully clean. Down below, the men having slept on board Monday night, the Lower Deck was not so clean, so after Captain Curtis had paid the ship off, I kept Stanhope and the men had a good clean of the Lower deck.
At 1030 the men left the ship and at 1130 some of them were on board other ships for the manoeuvres. Some of them with over £100 in their pockets.
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