6902-G-CinC AUSTRALIA - Pt 2

My darling child, 7th birthday, born Chelsea Court, London 2 am. God bless my beloved Madge.

23 July - Sunday

Quiet fine day, quite smooth, dry and steaming along 6 knots.

Been reading in the Stern Walk and reaching out, but such a consciousness of limitation. God only can help me to apprehend by His Spirit.

Passed through a tide rip, which swung the vessel’s head off three points.

Thinking much of Olga and the children.

ARRIVE VILA, NEW HEBRIDES

24 July - Monday

Arrived Vila this morning, thick, rainy weather and after we got in torrents of rain came down. The British Commissioner Mr King, and the French Commissioner, M. Martin called, each had their 11 gun salute. I returned their visits after tea, and paid Dr Crombie a visit and went over the Hospital belonging to the Mission (Presbyterian). Very clean and neat.

In the native ward three are murderers, but from what Dr Crombie said, the Frenchman brought it on himself, drunk and interfering with the women. These men come before the Joint Court. On my return I found the Court on board, making a call on me. The President, Count of Buena Esperanza, the British Judge Roseby, the French M. Martais and the Public Prosecutor Count of Andino. They all lunch with me to-morrow. From all I hear, this Condominium is an impossible state of affairs. The British carry out the law, the French evade it and most of their people are the scum from New Caledonia.

25 July - Tuesday

To day, I had a large luncheon party, the two Commissioners, Judges, etc, and Madame Martais, wife of Judge (French). Drank usual healths.

This evening I embarked on board Prometheus, Commander Warleigh, and left for the Northern Islands, fine weather. Saw the volcano on the Island of Ambrim, lit up the whole sky.

26 July - Wednesday

Arrived at the Island of Uma and very soon off came Mr Paton, son of the great missionary, John Paton and a great missionary himself, and had breakfast with us. We landed and had a long talk together. The infamies, atrocities, kidnapping of the French traders, in open defiance of the Convention, is deplorable. Women taken to live in concubinage, and drink and bullets sold. Nothing can be done as the French Commissioner won’t take action.

There have been eight Commissioners and Deputies since Mr King has been Commissioner the last four years. He is genial. I believe tries to do his best, but is afraid of causing complications at home between the two Governments, for which he would not be thanked.

Round Mr Paton’s house, there is a Xtian village and we walked about a mile to the heathen village and saw them getting their meal ready. Caste is very strict. The older men cook and eat by themselves, and no boy or man will eat anything cooked by a woman, or give any food to a woman, or a woman to a man. The food is cooked in plantain leaves, stones being made red hot and then some taken off, food wrapped up on leaf, is placed on stones, covered with stones and earth and in a few hours is cooked. The men only wear a waist band of bark and their appendage triced up. The women wear a narrow fringe of cocoa nut twine hanging down, about 10 inches deep.

I saw Rarahbutang, whose wife I am endeavouring to restore, kidnapped by a Frenchman to Epi. He presented me with a boar’s tusk and jaw.

The Derinto, great hollow Idol drums, stand round their dancing and religious clearances in the bush and are decorated with tusks, etc, and have carved on them birds, serpents, etc, all bearing a certain significance. Mr Paton gave me a lot of interesting curios. It was most fascinating to hear him tell story after story of hairbreadth escapes from being killed. He always went unarmed and trusting the natives, using sanctified common sense in doing so. The cannibalism still very rife amongst the bush tribes but done principally to shew their contempt for their enemy who they have killed, for they are always fighting and keep a vendetta up for years and years.

The natives distinguished the white men as ‘Missionaries’ and ‘White men’ and I am glad to say, quite realise the difference between the English and French.

Mr Paton told me he knew of 70 to 80 men who had died of syphilis from contact with a woman who had been taken away and used by 50-60 men and the natives are dying off fast. So many of the young men taken away to Queensland until lately and no families raised. One of Mr Paton’s staunchest supporters, an elder of the church with whom I shook hands, was a man who had shot his brother, and buried his mother alive. The old people are still buried alive but not amongst the coast tribes now. The missionary influence is slowly pervading through the Islands. Mr Paton told us the story of the man shooting his brother, both feasting in this house. Mr P. said, “Surely you would not hurt your brother? ‘How could I do so to my own brother’?”. Not a 100 yards from this compound, Mr P. heard him shoot his brother.

A French settler lives close by, one of the best in the group. He has someone else’s wife but as Mr P. said, he has known them for 10 years, a quiet respectable couple, young, and to him they are man and wife. They have two children and a half caste girl, I suppose by another mother. It was curious to see these girls of 10 and 14 with the naked savages and the youngest sitting with them. He makes a lot of money through selling Copra.

From here we steamed 12 miles down to the Island of Upini and landed, meeting Mr Gillan (who has been here for 30 years and married Paton’s sister). Miss Gillan and Mrs and Miss Robertson, whose husband is on the Island of Arramanga. On the Island of Upini (Malekoula) there are about 30 Xtians, but more on the Main land on the opposite shore. There are seven heathen villages, all clothed in the same light attire, many came down to the beach. This morning, I should say we had about 20-30 following us in Indian file, as we tramped through the bush.

The whole party came off to tea.

An outrage took place a couple of weeks ago, up in Espiegle Bay. A Frenchman sent his recruiters ashore and they were fired at, a couple killed and eaten, this in retaliation for kidnapping. In fact all the outrages are due to some scoundrelly act of the French. I am collecting a list of authentic cruelties and kidnapping and violations of the Convention by the French.

Caste is very strong and represented by pigs with tusks, some of which are worth £30 to £40 a piece. The upper tooth is knocked out and the tusk is allowed to grow right round, sometimes twice; must be agony to the animal.

If a man returns from the plantations he has a pig killed and many others. 100 brings him into the rank of a Chieftain and if he becomes a Xtian he has to return the same number for which he has had killed for him by his friends.

27 July - Thursday

Early this morning, we moved over to Ambrim Island some 30 miles and Dr Bowie came off and on landing made Mrs Bowie’s acquaintance and went over the Hospital, very clean. One of his patients a woman, who had been taken away to a plantation and abused by more than a dozen men and now at times she is off her head. He told me of flagrant abuses of the Convention by the French.

From here, we went on to Pauma (Paama) Island, 20 miles, but found Mr Frater had crossed to Ambrim so went over the 5 miles and he came off. Glad to hear that round him, no liquor selling and his next neighbour a couple of planters, who take a great interest in the natives. One of them has been a Salvationist in S. Army.

Steamed down to Epi Island, very large plantations of cocoa nuts and in the evening landed, and called on Mr Naturel, a French planter. Found him away but his wife and her brother there, they come from Neuchâtel in Switzerland. I had a long talk requesting them to return a woman to her husband who had received 6 years for murder, and been told by Mr Paton and Cdr Home in Pegasus that his wife should not be taken, however she went off with another man. I feel bound to get her back as the honour of a British Man of War is concerned and I told Madame I trusted in her to assist. She has been illegally recruited, though everything done legally by M. Naturel, as of course he thought she was the wife of the man who came with her.

Our Commissioner Mr King has a difficult post, but he is too much of a recluse, amiable and only too anxious to keep things going smooth.

Had a long talk to several of the missionaries regarding the accusations of trading made against the missionaries. They regretted very much that one of the number did, a Norwegian Oscar Michelsen on Island Ingoa and are most anxious he should be sent away, so I am reporting the case to the Moderator of the Presbyterian Church.

DEPART VILA

28 July - Friday

Arrived in Prometheus at 6 am and immediately transhipped to Powerful. Left at 6.30 am for Sydney. Strong SE trade.

29 July - Saturday

This day at 1 am about in 1886 my beloved father was called away at the Hotel in Jermyn Street, London, 25 years ago, yet the remembrance of his dear face and sound of voice, as fresh to my memory as if only parted from him yesterday, but we shall soon meet again. His children shall rise up and call him blessed.

Commenced reading John Paton’s autobiography. What wonderful parents he had, reading, encourages me in prayer.

Off Island of Pines, New Caledonia. Wet weather, swell from SW, wind easterly.

30 July - Sunday

Calm all day, smooth sea. A few cats paws of air now and then. Wind clouds from westward over the moon and lots of sheet lightening in the South quarter.

31 July - Monday

Steaming 14 knots very uncomfortable in cabin. Capt. Bruen far from well. Wind from westward.

AT SYDNEY

1 August - Tuesday

Arrived Sydney 6 pm. Saw Capt. Rolleston and then on shore and met my beloved wife and children. Two mails, many letters from all at home warmly congratulating me on my being a K.C.B. Stevie evidently lost his heart to Magdalene, encloses a cutting of letter I wrote to him. Well, when he is older he will understand more.

4 August - Friday

Admiral Sir Day and Lady Bosanquet arrived from Melbourne and lunched with us and in the afternoon Sir Day and I went for a walk in the Botanical Gardens. Very warm and both of us being thickly clad, agreed it was better to sit down. At 3.45 pm returned with Sir William and Lady Cullen who came over to call on the Bosanquets who left by the 5 pm train for Brisbane. They told us that when the Dudleys left Melbourne there was practically no one to see them off. They are so unpopular. The Fullers visited asking us to Melbourne for the Cup week, but Olga and I both agree that the expense is too much for us.

5 August - Saturday

Olga and I drove out over the North Shore and paid Miss Brownrigg a visit. She is 78 and a cousin of Captain Sir Douglas Brownrigg. A thorough lady, has been in great poverty but has a pension of 10/- a week. We left her a lb of tea and two 2/6d in the tea.

6 August - Sunday

Lou and I to Church, weary and unable to pay much attention to the worship or service, until I remained for the Lord’s Supper, much revived. We all went over to the Botanical Gardens in the Skiff.

7 August - Monday

A very successful meeting in the Drawing Room of the Girl’s Friendly Society about 120 - 130 present. The Archbishop in the Chair. Refreshments in the Dining Room and Billiards Room.

Many letters from home congratulating me on my getting the K.C.B.

9 August - Wednesday

Olga, girls and self out for a drive. Called on Hickleys.

11 August - Friday

My dear brother Baldie 43 years old to day.

Olga and I over to the town for shopping and this evening went with Lou to the Annual Meeting of the Shipwrecked Mariners and Humane Society. The Town Hall crammed, 3500 people present. Sir Wm Cullen in the Chair. All of us on the platform and very interesting programme. Singing by soloists and Choir. I seconded Act. Governor’s resolution and was well received. Spoke about 7 or 8 minutes.

Then an interesting series of events took place, the recipients of Awards and Medals coming up, the children as young as 8. The youngest girl there was 10, and a boy of 10, both carried on the shoulders of bluejackets and Band playing. Then groups of those who received Awards, bronze and silver medals came up escorted by bluejackets, and Band playing for each group, as they came up and returned. Tremendous clapping for every one. All being deeds of heroism. Several from fire and otherwise saved lives, but of course most from drowning and some most gallant and most risky to the saviours. What surprised me was the youth of so many, quite little boys and girls, well authenticated cases.

12 August - Saturday

Miss Bosanquet arrived this morning at 7.30 am.

13 August - Sunday

Miss Bosanquet, Lou and I to Church, and heard a good sermon. We had Hymns after tea. Ravenshaw came to supper, a cultured Oxford man, earnest Xtian Chaplain.

14 August - Monday

61 years of age to day. I praise and thank God for His marvellous and wonderful goodness to me. A year ago at The Elms, the outlook looked most dark, in debt and apparently no chance of employment. Now the C-in-C of Australian Station and a K.C.B. May I use this influential position in loving and loyal service to a gracious master.

Lady Bosanquet arrived for a visit.

15 August - Tuesday

A large dinner party at Acting Governor’s. The Bosanquets went with us.

16 August - Wednesday

Inspected the Y.M.C.A. building and then returned the call of the Chamber of Commerce.

Admiralty have approved of my public speeches.

17 August - Thursday

Dinner Party of 18 went off exceedingly well. Lady Bosanquet praised everything. Band played in Drawing Room later on in the evening.

18 August - Friday

Played golf with Seton. Rolleston to lunch, and we all went on to golf links. Rolleston playing croquet with Lady Bosanquet.

19 August - Saturday

Olga had a tea party, amongst them being Mrs Lasseter, who visits the Women’s Prisons several times a week and meets extraordinary cases. One who calls herself Lady Murray, or sometimes Mrs Murray, is the celebrated Lady Mordaunt of the Mordaunt case, that I remember in 1874, where the late King, then Prince of Wales went into court and swore he had had nothing to do with her. She kept a diary, published in the papers. She was divorced and shut up in a lunatic asylum for 11 years, then came out here and took to drink, first of all allowed £800 a year, now only £100 as her drinking bouts became so bad. Constantly in prison and Inebriates’ Homes.

Lord Dudley would not see his Aunt, nor would Georgina, Lady Dudley see her (she being sister), last year when she was out here. A very sad case, Mrs Lasseter said, she still had the refined manners of a lady of good breeding.

I was much interested in hearing of many cases of drunkenness cured by hypnotism which she told me of. Dr Charles Reed hypnotises the drunkard, not making any charges. He lives here and it is not generally known and he does it not for any profit, but because out of sympathy for the drunkard.

20 August - Sunday

To St John’s Church with Olga and Miss Bosanquet. A lot of Officers came into tea, including Mr Vernon, the G.G. private Secretary lent from the Colonial Office. For supper, Flag Captain and Norton came up. Lady Bosanquet told some curious stories re. warnings.

One was that a clergyman told Lady Fairfax, C-in-C’s wife out here some years before, about 1865 or 66. He was riding in the bush to visit a sick man, when suddenly he was seized with an uncontrollable dread, which he could not shake off. He dismounted and knelt in prayer and it went off and he rode on. Some time afterwards, he had to attend to two Bush rangers sentenced to death. One of them said, “I have seen you before.” “Where?” said the clergyman and the bush ranger said the time and place, where he had been seized with so much dread and said that they had intended murdering him for his clothes and horse. “Why did you not do it?” the clergyman asked. The bush ranger said “Why, how could we, when we saw the riders on white horses, come up alongside of you?.” Quite a case of Elisha and the Syrians over again. If we had only more faith, what could we not do?

21 August - Monday

Many letters from home. Stevie well and evidently getting on very well. Making friends everywhere. Lady and Miss Bosanquet left this evening. She told Capt. Rolleston that it had been the happiest week that they had ever spent in Australia and Seton says they were most depressed at leaving. Mr Williams, the organising Secretary of the L.M.S. lunched with us and others.

23 August - Wednesday

My beloved one’s birthday. God bless her, a loving a most helpful wife has she ever been to me. Gave her a fine book on Guardi, the painter father of Madalena Guardi, her great grandmother.

Raining hard since Sunday morning.

24 August - Thursday

Madge in bed with a cold. Dr Thorpe came to see her and Lou.

25 August - Friday

Francie’s birthday (1860).

Madge temperature 101° this evening, called in Dr Isbister.

26 August - Saturday

Madge better.

Olga, self, Lou, Mlle. and Flag Lt went to the Town Hall which was filled by about 3000 people, some 1600 being children. Olga received by a guard of children all dressed up representing children of other lands. Then a series of native life in China, Africa, Polynesia, etc. were presented, all very well done indeed. Afterwards Olga and I proceeded on to the platform and Olga received purses from many children, she kissed one little girl which evoked tremendous cheering from the audience. Then I returned thanks for Olga and it was some time before I could commence owing to the cheering and afterwards a very interesting cinematograph display.

Altogether a most successful gathering of the Sunday School children of the London Missionary Society. The purses for this special meeting alone was over £100 from Sunday Schools.

People to lunch every day. Last night I dined with Captain and Mrs Rolleston and met Miss McIntyre.

27 August - Sunday

Lou and I to Church. Miss McIntyre called and left £1 for Miss Brownrigg a distressed lady. Madge bronchial attack.

28 August - Monday

Capital news this morning, viz. that Income Tax is not to be charged on my Table Money, this not only saves me ½ on the whole Income, but brings me to 9d on my Pay, a saving of £126 a year to me, sorely needed.

Sorry to hear from Bertie of my dear sister’s Edie’s illness. Feel much disturbed.

Stevie very well.

29 August - Tuesday

Presided at the Annual Meeting of St John Church. My Parish Church Hall crammed. Spoke straight and out by God’s grace. Canon Bellingham, Rev Hammond and Johnston, of Parramatta spoke very well.

30 August - Wednesday

Played golf with Lieut Seton. He beat me. One up. Challenger arrived.

31 August - Thursday

Got in nurse for Madge. This evening, I heard her coughing loudly and two distinct whoops. I fear no doubt, she has whooping cough, poor little child. It cast such a dread over us. Dear Olga feels everything so much. She had to go out with Lou and Seton and give away prizes at a skating carnival held for getting funds for Stray Dogs’ Home, North Sydney.

1 September - Friday

George Grogan’s birthday, 36 years old.

Dr Isbister decided it is whooping cough.

Olga yesterday also opened a Coronation Fair at Newtown. I presided at a Meeting for the Missions to Seamen, Neutral Bay.

2 September - Saturday

Had a long talk with Rev Mr Moore of the Sydney Town Mission.

Madge appears better and my dear Olga in better spirits.

Invitation from the Fullers to stay with them for the Cup Week at Melbourne. Refused, on account of the expense, as we have also refused the Denmans. Government Houses are expensive places to stay in, especially for ladies. Tips alone are £1 a day.

3 September - Sunday

Madge better, but dear Olga not feeling very well. Some temperature, put her to bed.

I had hoped to have kept clear of Doctors and Nurses at £3.3 a week.

4 September - Monday

Sad news from Bertie about my beloved sister not being well. [3 lines inked over]

Madge bronchitis no worse, but the whoop this evening much more decided.

Anxious for us both and I also feel anxious about the state of affairs between Germany and Great Britain. A very little would bring on war. I have four ships at Colombo and two away in the Pacific, out of touch and Challenger in D.Yard hands. There are two very strong German Armoured cruisers in Chinese Waters and I must hope that Winsloe will hang on to them.

6 September - Wednesday

Last night I took the Chair at the Town Hall for the Sydney Town Mission, about 3,000 present. Spoke all right.

Madge had a very bad night but there is no doubt that the Bronchitis is better.

Dear Olga rather run down. Lou gone off until Saturday with the Thornets.

7 September - Thursday

Madge being better, I decided to pay the visit to the Donkins at Lake Cowal, some 300 miles to the SW of Sydney; but Olga not accompanying me, has taken away more than half the pleasure, and also as she has rather a sore throat. I felt much disinclined at leaving her. However, I could not go any other time, so we concluded it was advisable I should go.

8 September - Friday

Left in a special reserved 1st class last night at 8.10 pm. Seton saw me off. Slept well, and was met at 11 am at South Wyalong Station by Mr Donkin in his motor. He proposed our going down a gold mine as originally this district was a miners’ part of the country, and all round the settlement are hundreds of shafts sunk. Very dangerous to strangers.

One man fell down a pit 150 feet deep not long ago and was there 10 days. He cried out and at last got hoarse but a little rain coming on revived him and he called out once more and was heard by a woman.

We were down an hour and a half in the mine, some 800 feet deep and walked along the sidings for a long way and saw the quartz being knocked out and it was very interesting, the manager describing the working of the mine (True Blue). In two shifts of 8 hours each. (Picture)

The amount of timber used must be enormous in the various sidings for supporting the weight of the roof, as the small sidings are only ten feet apart. The rock is cut down and only the quartz sent down by a shute to the Barrows beneath. The mine was very cool, damp in parts, and I with an empty stomach, having only had 4 sandwiches, felt quite faint at times.

After getting up, we motored and on the road had a welcome lunch by the way side. The road 300 feet wide leads through the bush. Many trunks of trees about, etc, and very rutty, but being very soft the motor stood it very well.

We passed teams of men, 20 in the team, sometimes 24, carrying 14-17 tons of wool, some belonged to Mr Donkin. They move about 8 miles a day and take 3 days to get into the station (railway).

He gets about 110 tons of wool off his sheep and about £12 a ton. A 1d in the 1 lb difference means a £1000 to him. He sells off one third every year, i.e. the natural increase. He has 30,000 sheep and lambs, about 16,000 are ewes.

We arrived at Lake Cowal about 5.30 pm after a drive of 25 miles and had a welcome cup of tea. The house is a glorified log hut, about 80 years old and inside is papered on some brown paper, for there is a hole in my room, through which I can see daylight. It has a galvanised iron roof and cut up into funny odd rooms, my bed room is off the small dining room.

The garden and also balcony round house is closely protected by wire netting to prevent snakes coming into the house. At one time they were bad. The garden is pretty and well watered, a river close to, on which Mr Donkin owns nine miles of Shearing Sheds. Buildings for the men, Pumps and all kinds of Estate Out Houses complete the Establishment.

Mrs and Miss Donkin very pleasant and very kind. Had a talk with Donkin after dinner.

9 September - Saturday

Woke by the Poultry Yard at 6 am just outside my door on veranda, where also is a yard full of pets - Emu, Companion bird. Went down after B.fst and Morning prayers, which I was glad to see they have, but only for themselves as there is only Cook and House Parlour Maid.

Well I went down with Mr D. and saw the sheep being sheared. It is extraordinary how quick they do it by machinery, from 2 to 4 minutes, the whole of the fleece is off and weighs 14 lbs. Beautiful Merino wool. They shear the sheep as clean as possible. Some of the sheep have such a lot of wool, that they can hardly see and at times, they are obliged to cut the wool clear of the eyes. The shearing of the 30,000 sheep and lambs takes a month, and costs £1000. It was very interesting watching them.

Then we mounted, I on a very uncomfortable motioned horse, and we rode over part of the estate, which is being flooded from the river, very full from rains in the hills. Any amount of birds of all kinds, black swan, allowed us to come quite close to them. We went through swamped fields, but only some 3-4000 acres will be flooded and rain is badly needed in this part of the country. Rain is much needed, an inch of rain would mean a £1000 to Mr Donkin. The Estate is 30,000 acres in extent, very complete and self contained in every way, carries about 30,000 sheep, 16,000 being ewes, 10,000 lamb and the other rams. The latter average 2-3 to a hundred ewes. The Paddocks are enormous and the end of the station is 12 miles from the Homestead. It is quite a model station of the "Way back".

10 September - Sunday

Very fine day, rain did not come last night, as was hoped. This afternoon, Mr Blomfield and his brother’s wife Mrs Blomfield came over to tea. She is sister to Mrs Barlow, whom she has not seen for 20 years. It was news to her, that Admiral Barlow had retired. This evening Mr Donkin had a service for the Shearers in a room off the house. I spoke by God’s grace a few words of help to them. One man clasped my hand and said “God bless you.”

Got a telephone-telegram yesterday, from the Secretary, saying my beloved Olga and dear child Madge were both better and German affairs quieting down. Much relieved at hearing the news.

11 September - Monday

Mr Donkin and I left in a buggy and spent the whole day, driving to the extreme parts of the station, some 12 miles. It was most interesting, we had an al fresco luncheon and made billy tea. At the place where we stopped he had the man with the poison cart working pieces of poison into the furrow, made by the small plough in the machine, every yard and then a revolving wheel covering it over very lightly. We saw in parts a good many rabbits. There are about 2000 acres enclosed in for rabbit burrows in many parts of the run where there are sand banks.

We saw a mob of about 50 kangaroos, but could not get close enough to photograph them, but a detached red and brown one, when we were walking the buggy very slowly and circling, were so overcome with curiosity that they remained some time within 40 yards and I got several snap shots of them. We also saw flocks of wild emus, but they always kept half a mile off and just hopped most easily over the fences.

We got back to the Homestead just before 7 o’c, having visited the extreme end of the station and travelled about 30 miles in the buggy.

Mr D. told me he got £10000 a year gross off the Estate and has spent this year £6000 on the Estate. I expect he clears a good £5000 a year on the average.

12 September - Tuesday

This morning Mr D. and I crossed the river with our horses in the punt and rode 5 or 6 miles to Mr Wilson’s shearing shed, where there is work going on. There was one man there who has done 158 sheep in the day, but the average is from 80 to 100. Mr W’s sheep are hard to shear, not being pure Merinos as are Mr D’s, and then in a dry season the skin gets hard and wrinkles when shearing. Some of the sheep were blinded with wool. Their eyes are cleared once or twice a year and Mr D. got 4 tons alone from these clippings.

We then rode to the Homestead, a very nice house, with huge verandah and met Mr W. and his two nieces who are staying with him. Pianola was played and we then rode back to lunch. Miss D. in bed.

This afternoon Mr and Mrs D. and self motored over 6 miles to the Blomfields who have built a nice house. Their station is only 3000 acres. (Mr Wilson’s is 100,000, he has just sold 50,000). We had tea there. Mrs Blomfield, who is Admiral Barlow’s sister in law, told me that she had trod on a snake who had twisted round her ankle and fortunately struck at her dress. She kicked furiously and threw it off. Her feelings must have been most trying, especially as only a few years ago she lost her sister from a snake bite, having a bath, she was standing on the tiled floor and it struck her toes. She was found in a comatose state, and died two days later.

There is no doubt there are a small number of deaths from snake bites, but they are hushed up. The Shearers here killed over 20 the other day. They went out to look for them. We had tea and then returned about 6.30 pm.

They have one girl of 16.

13 September - Wednesday

5 pm. En route to Sydney. I must confess that much as I enjoyed my visit to the Donkins at Lake Cowal, I enjoy ten times over, the returning to my Olga and the children. The Donkins are very nice hospitable kind people. Thoughtful and earnest, most considerate to all those working under them.

Rather troubled at no rain, as it is becoming almost a drought.

We motored in this morning and met Gordon Donkin the eldest son en route, had lunch by the way side, and I then visited the Cottage Hospital just outside Wyalong South. The first 15 miles of our trip was through a good back road through the bush, like going through a park almost.

Then we got out on to the stock route, this being only 100 yards wide, but the one we went by on Thursday last is half a mile broad. These stock routes are let out on lease to owners of adjoining property, but the drovers are obliged by law to give warning not less than 12 and not more than 24 hours to the owners of stations through which they are driving stock, thus enabling the owner to keep an eye on them, so that they do not feed the stock in their paddocks by opening the gates, etc. They are also obliged to drive sheep not less than six miles and bullocks not less than nine miles a day along the route.

14 September - Thursday

Arrived at 5.30 am this morning. Seton met me and we walked down. Arrived and found my wife well, and we are delighted to be together again. Madge slight improvement.

Went with Olga to attend the marriage of Lieut Prickett of Challenger, with Miss Kerr Clarke, at the D.Yard Chapel which was very prettily decorated, and filled with friends and bluejackets. Bride pretty and looked well. Ravenshaw’s part abominably done, one could hardly hear a word he said. Morgan was better. After the service a luncheon in the sail loft. I proposed the health of the parents (my old friend and shipmate in Lord Warden) of the Bride and Bridegroom in a neat little speech, which the bride afterwards thanked me for very sweetly.

18 September - Monday

Better news from home about dearest E.D. Madge slowly progressing.

19 September - Tuesday

Not a very reassuring telegram from Admiralty, regarding the French and German negotiations. Informed the G.G. so his secretary is going over to Melbourne to see Pearce and Fisher, Minister for Defence and Premier. Told Bruen and Rolleston in Powerful, which was to have sailed to-morrow morning, but has suddenly developed a defect and so remains here, and the Encounter at Jervis Bay is returning, ostensibly for a cruise to the North. I have wired to Colombo to order ships. if they can reach them by W/T, as they are 600 miles on their return journey, to go to Singapore and coal and Prometheus to remain at Suva with the Torch as the German Cormoran is there. I have also made other war preparations regarding the German steamers.

20 September - Wednesday

Olga and I to dinner at the Town Hall. Given by the Lord Mayor to the Governor General and Lady Denman, a number of round tables. Act Gov. took Olga in, and I took Lady Cullen. The Lord Mayor and Mr Thomas, the Federal Post Gen., made speeches proposing the health of the G.G., who replied very well. A little nervous I think. We left at 10.45 pm.

Lady Denman called and had tea with Olga this afternoon. Madge better, I am thankful to say.

21 September - Thursday

A large Ball at the Town Hall given by Dr and Mrs Pockley, he being the President of the Medical Congress. 1600 guests invited, nearly 400 had not answered. The Postal arrangements are considered to be blamed. Olga did not accompany me. I formed part of the Vice Regal procession and danced in the Lancers and after supper took my departure, as the last Horse Ferry is at 12 o’c.

Lady Barttelot looked well, also Miss Quick, who I find is a cousin of the first Lady Clarina.

22 September - Friday

Olga and I went to the Garden Party given by the Army Medical Officers to the Congress. Unfortunately it rained at times and made the grass very wet. G.G. and party there. We all had tea together.

Madge better right side, not so well the left side.

23 September - Saturday

Olga and I to Sydney and visited the Royal Arts Society. The President, Mr Lister, has some very good paintings. He received us and told us that the Australians did not purchase pictures and always thought that they got more for their money when they bought pictures done in Europe. Olga admired one of his sea paintings and to encourage art and please Olga, I sent word back from the lift, as we were first descending, I would buy No 138 for £5.5, one done by Mr Lister.

When I got to the street, I repented having acted so impulsively as I owe so much, and have such heavy Doctors’ and Nurses’ bills to pay. However there is nothing to be done now.

After tea, called at the Manns and found 13 ladies there, I the only man.

24 September - Sunday

Dr Kumm, African Explorer and interested in Mission work, came to lunch, a tall genial young giant, well perhaps about 35 years old. He lost his wife née Lucy Guinness, daughter of Grattan Guinness, about 4 years ago and he has established a home for freed slaves in North Nigeria. There are 180 there. Of course, Lucy G. was a well known writer and missionary.

Dr Kumm’s father was Adjutant to the late King of Hanover, and he broke the Prussian Squares twice at the final battle of Langal. Dr Kumm knows a lot of our friends, Radstock, Beauchamps, Frasers, and Campbell Morgan. He is a very thorough earnest Christian man and we had a most interesting talk together.

His adventures crossing Africa from the Niger to Khartoum were most interesting. His caravan of 280 nearly starved on one occasion. For 30 days they met no one, nor a single hut, the country had been depopulated by the Dervishes. He passed thro’ all the great Mahomedan Sultanates and said the Mahomedans were converting the pagans and unless care was taken and energy in evangelising the heathen, we should see a huge Mahom. Empire in the centre of Africa.

As it is, the Sultan of Darfur under our suzerainty is most despotic and we can do nothing. Any one who looks up in his presence has his eyes put out and if any one, I conclude supplicants, raise their heads, he cuts it off. So most cruel. Dr Kumm saw a lot of the victims of his cruelty. Only took alcohol as a medicine in his travels. When he got to the great Sudd Swamp, about as large a England, he telegraphed to Sir R. Wingate who sent two steamers to him, also R.C. Bishop of Khartoum did the same, but they all got hung up and he had to skirt round the great swamp on foot.

25 September - Monday

Olga, Lou and I with Flag. Lt. to Dress Circle to see La Bohème. Melba taking the part of Mimi. Poor thing, she had a cold but her voice, beautifully trained, has no sympathy in it. Mr McCormick the tenor a perfectly lovely voice full of sympathy and perfect in tone. I paid a visit to the G.G.’s Box and had yarn with Lady Denman and party.

He, the G.G., suddenly turned up between the Acts and asked to be allowed to sit alongside Olga for a talk. Being all blazoned with Stars and Orders, every eye in the Theatre which was packed was turned on them both.

26 September - Tuesday

Played golf, Lou walked round with me. Left knee bothering me. Stiff and rheumatic. Madge better. Still in bed. During the afternoon, Olga playing with her, imitated a gramophone which made Madge laugh, so immediately brought on a fit of whooping. However when it was passing off she waved for Olga to go on.

27 September - Wednesday

Raining hard. Olga opened a small sale of work for the S.A. this afternoon. We dined at the State Govt House to meet the G.G. and party. Dinner not good, but Cullens charming as ever. G.G. very respectful to me, always says “Sir”.

28 September - Thursday

I attended the Madrigal concert, and sat with Lady Denman and Lady Barttelot and Miss Quick. I like them all. They are all so natural. Concert not bad. Miss Beattie played extraordinarily well.

29 September - Friday

Dr Kumm and Rev. Morgan lunched. The latter very out and out. He is Chaplain of the Challenger.

In the afternoon Olga, self, Lou and Mlle went to the Town Hall, Lord Mayor in the Chair, to hear Dr Kumm lecture on the Central African problem. He gave a most illuminative, illustrative and touching address and opened out vast vistas of the future. We were all much affected. I was asked to thank him which I did with much earnestness, tinged with suppressed emotion.

Olga and I attended the G.G.’s Ball this evening, walked in procession and danced State Lancers. Premier and others made a great mess of it. I told Lady D, the people who dance the set should have a rehearsal. Left after supper.

30 September - Saturday

Olga and I called for by Mrs Dixon in her fine motor, went out to the Incurable Home, Ryde, some 10 to 18 miles out, about 35 inmates. We stayed there about an hour and a half and talked to every patient. I never met such a lot of sunny happy faces, all well contented and well looked after. A beautiful Home, in a most beautiful situation, overlooking the Harbour and surrounding country for miles. Many of them most earnest Xtian souls. I had some nice spiritual talks with many of them. Some Xtian Endeavour children came before we left and sang Hymns to them. Olga and I much pleased with all that we saw.

First day of the Races.

Powerful and Encounter returned last evening.

1 October - Sunday

Very hot. Walked to church with Lou. Got so wet with perspiration, had to go home and change, and returned in time for Communion.

2 October - Monday

Ball at Government House. I danced in the State Lancers with Lady Griffith and Olga with Sir John Fuller, Governor of Victoria. This afternoon Olga and I drove out to the Races. I lunched with the Jockey Club. Olga with Lady Denman. The Vice Regal party all betted on a horse in one race called the Vice Admiral, he nearly won, but did not, so they all lost their money. I told them I never betted and hoped this would be a warning to them. I hate all the surroundings of the race course, the betting, etc. Several jockeys thrown, but providentially not hurt.

Lady Barttelot very nice, told me her father was a Captain Angove in the P & O in old times.

3 October - Tuesday

In the afternoon, I went to the YMCA to a reception held in honour of Sir John Kirk. I spoke. The last time I had seen him was when I presided at a Meeting about 18 months ago at Hove, at which he spoke. In the evening attended the St Vincent Hospital Ball, the usual Vice Regal Procession and Lancers in which Olga and I figured.

4 October - Wednesday

A blessing, no where to go tonight. Olga and I dislike going out and infinitely prefer our fireside and a book. This afternoon we went to the Deaf, Blind and Dumb Asylum and saw the 150 children. It is simply marvellous to see what they can do and we were much touched. I had rather a thousand times visit such places than go to Races and Balls. The Committee gave us tea.

5 October - Thursday

A very successful Garden Party, given by their Ex’s. Fine weather.

Madge much better, but still in bed with bronchitis, slight.

Powerful has to be at Colombo the middle of January.

6 October - Friday

Lieut Johnstone to be tried by CM for drunkenness. Two Artificers of the same ship Prometheus disrated same day for the same offence. Admiralty refused to allow him to retire and he did not wish to resign. He is son of Adm. Johnstone and I wished to save him from CM for his father’s sake.

Attended Ball in Town Hall given by the Australian Club. 1600 guests. Olga and I danced Lancers in Vice Regal Set. Everyone looking on. It went off satisfactorily. We came away early.

7 October - Saturday

Olga and I drove out to the Home of Peace for the Dying, very, very sad and depressing. All or nearly all suffering from Cancer. It is good to be brought to remember the sad side of human life.

Our dear little Madge allowed up today.

8 October - Sunday

Terrible inflamed eyes and nose. Getting dicky I fear. Not able to read a word.

9 October - Monday

A large dinner party of 24. Governor General’s party. Went off very well. Band played capitally after the ladies had gone into the Drawing Room. Some of the Band played in there. G.G. wanted me to take in Lady Denman ahead of him, but I made him go first. King proposed 1h 10m from the commencement of dinner. Olga looked exceedingly well and did the hostess as she always does with much grace.

10 October - Tuesday

Lady Barttelot and Miss Quick with Captain Bruen came to lunch, and afterwards we had some music, the former singing passably. Miss Q. played very well. Capt. B. evidently thought so. Lou also played, a little nervous, but she played extremely well and both our visitors were much struck with it. My Olga and I went over to Sydney for a walk.

DEPART SYDNEY

11 October - Wednesday

Left in the Powerful with Encounter. Engaged all day exercising the two vessels. T.B.D. Parramatta and Yarra went out to make a night attack.

12 October - Thursday

Destroyers joined up, had some tactics. Yesterday’s sea gone down.

ARRIVE MELBOURNE

13 October - Friday

Heavy swell from the SW with wind. I sent Encounter over the Bar between the Port Philip Heads at 4 pm. She reported it practicable and I followed at 4.30 and candidly confess was most uneasy in my mind, as depth of water in one particular line was 40 feet, elsewhere less, ship drawing over 29 feet. As we passed over it, we swept along steaming 16 knots and current 5 to 6, and at one moment her stern was in the hollow, and squatting down, at that speed, and there could have been very little water under the keel: a rocky Bar. I had asked God’s care and protection and was very thankful when over. I complimented Lieut Hill, on the way he brought her in.

14 October - Saturday

Landed with Staff and called on Sir John Fuller, the Governor. Rather slack. They had no guard for me and the Flag Lt told the ADC that the C-in-C did not like it at all. Not that I care personally, but I have to think of the position.

In the afternoon I landed at St Kilda’s and found my way to where my brother Russell died 7 July 1881. 2 Albert Terrace, Cunningham Street, South Yarra. Now renumbered, it is the second house from the Toorak Road. I called and was permitted to see the Sitting and the Bed Room, where the poor fellow must have died.

I then went on and called on Admiral Sir Wm and Lady Creswell, Wooreet, Harold Terrace, Wallace Avenue, Toorak and had tea there. He has a son in the Cornwall and other children. A girl of 18 here also. A dinner party this evening to the Comm. Officers of Ships and Destroyers. Capt. Richardson, the District Officer could not come, has influenza and Seton forgot to ask Capt. Hickley of Encounter. Capt. Drummond of Cambrian met Jack Wedderburn-Ogilvy, who married Aileen, they are in the same county, Forfarshire.

17 October - Tuesday

Firing all yesterday and to day. Cold wind and nasty sea for boats. No letters yet from Sydney. Have had slight giddiness, but not much. I find I get very breathless by the time I get to the fore bridge from my cabin.

16 October - Monday

My dear brother this day, hoists his Flag in the Orion as 2nd in command of the 2nd Div of the Home Fleet. God bless and give him wisdom for his duties.

The Farquhar brothers had their Flags flying this year for a week together. With that exception it has not occurred since the two Hoods in the Old War.

18 October - Wednesday

Rehearsed Squadron Firing and then anchored in bay for the night. Darkened ships but Parramatta discovered us 3 miles off by the dense masses of smoke coming from the funnels.

19 October - Thursday

Exercised Torpedo Running with Encounter. Several letters from my beloved wife.

20 October - Friday

Landed with Flag Captain and walked for 2¼ hours through the very fine botanical Gardens here and then along the Yarra and saw the Eights practising. Met Adm. Creswell, his son a fine young fellow, the stroke of the University Eight.

Very changeable weather.

Premier offered me Government motor car for to-morrow.

21 October - Saturday

Trafalgar Day. Premier wrote that Government car was at my disposal for this afternoon, so Admiral Creswell arranged to meet me and at 2 pm. Seton and I landed. Found Gov. car broken down and a taxi instead.

Off we went, got into the country, just like the country in England, rolling hills, very fine meadows, and every kind of English tree. In fact the country very park like and the large houses might be English Country houses. The weeping willows on the banks of the Yarra were very fine. Altogether I was charmed with the beauty of the country. The only drawback to the trip was the dust, which soon covered us. Had tea at the Melbourne Club, where Professor Musson was introduced to me.

22 October - Sunday

Port Melbourne.

Mail from home. E.D. better.

Robinson and Gamble retired, I am now the Senior Vice Admiral.

A very disagreeable surprise, ‘Philips’ Bill originally was £116 and not £50 as I was told. A wounded spirit who can bear.

23 October - Monday

Out all to day, practising towing Target. Weather cold.

24 October - Tuesday

Started at 8 am, having embarked Mr Fisher (Premier), Mr Pearce (Min for Defence), Mr Tudor (Customs) and others of Navy Board, Manisty and Chambers, and went out with the Squadron for preliminary Battle Practice. They saw the Encounter fire and I sent them in after that, by Parramatta, and lucky I did, as it came on to blow very heavy squalls of rain and hail and wind, sometimes of the force of 9 to 10.

Sails of Targets carrying away, steamers in the way, blinding squalls of rain and hail, only allowed me to get the firing of Powerful through, from 11.30 am to 7.30 pm, during which time I was on the Bridge of Encounter. A most trying day.

Letters from my beloved Olga.

A W/T telegram from Donkin and family in the Macedonia as they passed by en route to Bombay and Delhi for the Durbar.

25 October - Wednesday

Started firing to day, early hours. Got off the Powerful, Encounter and Prometheus. Anchored off Portarlington.

Had an attack of giddiness, whilst going through papers after coming to an anchor. I do not know what it can come from.

Letter from my Beloved.

26 October - Thursday

At anchor off Portarlington about 15 miles from Port Melbourne. Held the Squadron Regatta. Landed at 5.30 pm and had a walk with Bremner.

27 October - Friday

Squadron firing from Powerful and Encounter. Cambrian towing, and the Prometheus counting ship. Destroyers out; Parramatta with Members of Parliament on board.

Proceeded into the inner harbour, and secured between the Piers.

28 October - Saturday

Went with my Staff to see the Henley Regatta on the Yarra. About 100,000 people on the banks. A pretty sight, hundreds of boats decorated and pulling up and down the course, which was laid out between two barriers of floating spars. About 8 to 9 House Boats, moored alongside each other.

Had tea on board the Gov. General and State Govt. Boat. Made Lady Fuller’s acquaintance and Miss Phipps. The former very good looking, rather placid looking and a little hard to talk to. The Fuller children nice looking, the three eldest (girls) remarkable light flaxen hair, 8, 10, and 12.

Had a talk with Denman and Fuller, the latter thinks the Govt. wished a trained lawyer at the Home Office, and that is why W. Churchill and McKenna have changed, especially as the former has always been anxious to run one of the fighting forces.

29 October - Sunday

Peshall from Encounter preached. He tells me that Lt Mortimer and Miss Tuhoe are to be married in a Protestant Church at Sydney on the 3 Nov, notwithstanding the prohibition of the R.C. Archbishop of Sydney.

Seton and I took the train to Melbourne, 10 min, and then the tram 25 min to Toorak and walked for a mile in the sweltering heat to the State Government House, where we found Lady Fuller on the lawn, smoking a cigarette, Sir John and the rest playing tennis. The five children on the lawn running about bare footed and bare headed, looking the picture of health. The three eldest are girls 12, 10, and 8, all with the same flaxen hair and rosy cheeks, the two boys very fine little fellows. We all had tea, a family party, Mrs Irving the actress joining us, and then the fine 7 months old baby was brought down and admired.

Returned on board, found English mails.

30 October - Monday

Held a conference with the Premier and Minster of Defence, regarding the initiation and training of the R.A.N. forces. The proposal that out of the subsidy, the Commonwealth should pay the Squadron under my command the difference between Home and colonial rates of pay, which would come to £144,000. The Pegasus and Psyche being paid off, thus saving their upkeep, £80,000.

Called on Chief Justice, Sir John Madden.

31 October - Tuesday

Various callers. Mr Pearce, Major General Kirkpatrick and others.

Sir John Fuller and Staff (3) came off to lunch and enjoyed themselves. I landed and called on the Barttelots and then on to Government House and had tea with the Denmans. Turned very cold and a strong wind from the SW.

1 November - Wednesday

Drove out in Governor’s Motor to Gov. House, with my Staff, to dine. G.G. and all his party there, except Lord Richard, all Fuller’s Staff and Sir Harry Barron and his A.D.C. from Tasmania. Dined in plain clothes, with orders.

After dinner, Ladies Denman and Fuller lit cigarettes, and very soon the whole lot got romping, first with the 16 Lancers, then Charades, and then ‘Bumps’ in which the G.G. and all of us perforce had to join in. It made me laugh until the tears ran down my cheeks.

Lady Fuller had lost her Butler and his wife, the Cook, the day before. The former having got drunk. Olga informs me that the Federal Gov. House has filched Maggie away - much to our disgust. I think Lord Richard is at the bottom of it, and shall bring him to book.

I had an interesting conversation with Lady Barttelot at dinner, on spiritual matters. Sir Walter when stationed at Cairo in the Guards, had Colonel Granville Smith, a very out and out Xtian in command, and Lady B. told me that though he would not go to a dance or to a race meeting, he was very much liked.

2 November - Thursday

Lady Denman, Lady B. and Lady Fuller with her sister Miss Phipps and Miss Quick lunched on board and the A.D.Cs. They enjoyed themselves and went over the ship.

The Barttelot and Denman children came to tea. Miss Quick remained behind and Captain Bruen took charge of her!!! We shall see.

Landed and paid a visit to the Melbourne Hospital.

3 November - Friday

Just heard from Olga of her very great success at the Town Hall, speaking to about 3000 people. The Lord Mayor and Lady Mayoress on the platform. Olga must have looked very well and was received by veterans, the leader of whom, Capt. Head, had fought under my father in China. Olga writes very proudly of this moment in her life and she has every reason to be proud. She says she spoke very slowly, and felt very composed. A lot of complimentary remarks made to her and about her by the speakers. I feel so pleased.

4 November - Saturday

Drove out in the G.G.’s procession to the Flemington race course, I being in the same carriage with Sir John and Lady Fuller and Lord Richard Nevill, the Chamberlain to the G.G. There were four carriages altogether. A great crowd. Had lunch out there. On my arrival on board at 6.30 pm found a telegram from Lou “Cable received, Uncle Walter dead, have not told Mother.” I wired to her to tell her and to let me know by a W/T to night, if she would like me to come over, which I can do, by leaving on Monday night. Cancelling all my social engagements. Poor Walter. What a sad life it has been. I feel very sorry and grieved, also for my dear wife, who will feel it so much.

5 November - Sunday

Attended Cathedral Service in uniform with Officers and men for Seafarers. G.G. there. Not a bad service at all, a helpful little sermon by the Archdeacon of Melbourne, but the whole spoilt by a long hymn of ten or more long verses, to a shocking tune. After the service I went with Secretary to Missions for Seamen Home and after tea by Chaplain’s request (Goldsmith) spoke to the men about 100 present and a lot of young men and girls helping.

6 November - Monday

Stayed on board. G.G. has had a smash playing polo. Wrote Her Ex.

7 November - Tuesday

I went up to Govt House and was photographed with the other governors and ladies, etc. In the evening I went to dinner at G. House. Denman unable to appear. I took in Lady Madden and sat on Her Ex’s right. During the dinner I had a very interesting conversation on the spiritual life and the future.