5202-G-HMS RESISTANCE - Pt 2

NOV 1873 - MAY 1874

DEPART LISBON

15 November – Saturday

Wrote to my Father, before we left, beginning to unmoor at 6 am and got away at 11 am and are now steaming down for Madeira, expecting to pick up the Triumph off C. St Vincent tomorrow.

Have got the middle watch so shall turn in early.

16 November – Sunday

At 4 o’c this morning, on Smith’s having received all the orders, he told me he felt unwell and so I had to send down for some one else to relieve me. It is a great nuisance his going into the list.

This afternoon numerous signals were made to the Officer of the Watch to observe his FT Glt Sail which both the Captain and I did, not observing anything wrong, the sheets being 4 feet off but, square, topsails having one reef. They then made a signal, sheet home F.T. Glt sheets and note Officer of Watch; which Farquhar most stupidly read wrong and flew my name at the mast head. They made back there was a mistake, but the evil was done. I should not have minded the noting, for the Captain was with me all the time. He said he would explain when we got in, but those sort of promises are not to be trusted.

19 November – Wednesday

Smith still in the list, but I hope he may soon be out. We have had fine weather during the passage, wind aft all the way; usual drills &c. We were 90 miles off Madeira at noon today, so ought to be in tomorrow forenoon easily. Had watch stations this afternoon.

ARRIVE MADEIRA

20 November – Thursday

Arrived off Funchal this forenoon, with the Fleet, and had to pick our anchor up again after letting it go on account of its being let go in a fuel berth, which the Captain was to blame for. He seems to stand in great dread of the flagship. All the men got wet through in shifting berth.

Madeira is looking, if anything, prettier than ever and it lately having been raining has given it a very fresh, clean and bright appearance. Any amount of fruit boats about with bananas, oranges, and figs &c.

We got a telegram containing news of Colonel Festing and 52 men being killed, or wounded in a bush skirmish, and retiring from their camp.

Got a letter from my Father who tells me that they are working at Himalaya and Tamar night and day, to take troops out to Ashantee. I’m afraid we shall suffer much, before we’ve finished with them.

21 November – Friday

Blew very sharp during the night; kept anchor watch and had steam ready at a moment’s notice; barometer also having fallen and swell from SW.

Had general quarters this forenoon and then furled sails and got boats out.

It being my day off, I went ashore in 1.30 pm boat going with Warleigh as a companion. We landed at the landing inside the Looe Rock and set out for the town, a beautiful day to all appearance before us; and whilst touching on the landing, it may not be amiss to say something about the arrangements for boating.

A Greeting of one officer from each ship going to the consulate and arranging that six boats should fly flags, and attend on the ships at a fixed tariff, five on the beach and one inside Looe Rock. Fares, at all times and in all weather 1/– and 3d. to take people through the surf from ships’ boats, abreast the beach. Ships requiring a boat alongside to hoist letter N. Commercial code at peak.

After walking through the town and purchasing some sticks, we made up for the Convent and took a long while fetching up, the road being very steep, and slippery form the rain. All the roads in and about Funchal being paved with small stones, so that as no wheeled vehicles are used. It is very convenient for the sledges &c. that are used.

We reached the Convent in about an hour and a half and remaining there some time, not alas! engaged the whole time in admiring the scenery for most of the time it rained and enveloped us in a thick fog or mist. However at times it cleared up and gave us a charming view of Funchal and the bay, but to my mind not so lovely a view as is to be got from one’s ship in the bay.

What makes the place so charming and not tiring to the eye are the very many shades of foliage and pasturage, going from rich dark brown to dark and light green, with its well wooded glens and rocky high peaks. There is a very pretty ravine on the right of the town, which is called the Small Carral, or by sailors the ‘Midshipman Carral’ and the Grand Carral being some 12 miles out is a day’s trip on horseback.

After some little bargaining and chaffering we got into a basket seat, mounted on two wooded runners and with two men to guide it, we dashed down the road we had come up, its angle at times being, I should think, between 30 degrees and 40 degrees. At times we were going at the rate of 7 or 8 miles an hour, but had to be cautious today on account of the road being so slippery and wet. It took us 20 minutes coming down, and the men told us they often took 8. They are great extortioners, fare down is only 1/– and they naturally tried to get double and wanted wine several times but we only laughed at them.

After purchasing some sticks and giving double price for them we came off in the rain from Looe Rk landing and what with the hubbub and noise that arose from all the ships and shore boats and passengers, just come by a steamer; the confusion was great. The swell coming in, knocking all the boats about, added to it. I wonder that they don’t connect the point and Looe Rk. by a small breakwater. It could not cost much and would make a splendid sheltered place for boats, or even for a steamer to come in and out.

On arriving on board found still greater confusion, having got in 400 bags of bread, 80 casks and 70 bales with 120 cases, 700 lbs of bread were spoilt with the wet. We finished by 8.30 and hoisted boats in at 9 pm.

Won 13 pts at whist. Ought to have dined last with Comdr. Rawson of Hercules, but it came on to rain so heavy, that I begged to be excused.

22 November – Saturday

Raining more or less all day.

23 November – Sunday

Fine day.

The homeward bound mail steamer from the Coast came in, bringing news of two officers being dead; one in action and one from fever in Sierra Leone; and of our men 500 strong, including a brigade of 60 seamen, repulsing 15,000 Ashantees at three separate attacks 7 pm, 12 pm and 5 am; and of the latter being taken with a panic and running, leaving their camp, and the golden cock of the Chief being taken.

Sent home two letters, one to my Father and one to Russie.

24 November – Monday

Transport No 8 Finisterre came in this morning from England on way to the Coast. Manned and armed boats. Admiral Hornby did not think they formed well enough, so he has desired officers in charge of boats to remain on board, until done again. A quiet way of stopping leave.

Whilst furling sails with the watch, two men came down from the Fore Yard. C.F. de Mitchen and Purdie, an AB. The latter fell on to the Bill, fracturing his skull and dying two hours afterwards.

25 November – Tuesday

Buried the poor fellow this afternoon, in the English Cemetery. Our guard today and I had to go to board the outward bound African S.N. Co steamer Senegal, getting mails and papers. Had to wait for about an hour alongside, until the Health Officer had chosen to come off and give her a clean Bill of Health. Adm. Hornby gave us our leave back, by manning boats &c.

26 November – Wednesday

I was wrong in saying Admiral Hornby had given us our leave back yesterday, for he made a signal “Adm. does not require Boat Officers for the present” which looked rather suspicious that it was for the sake of his dance he gave it back.

I went to it, more because the Captain wished it, and was just going to give an order for a certain number to go, but once there I enjoyed myself, as I generally do, if I can rouse myself up to go. Spoke to all the Admirals and Captains. Capt. Graham and Hoskins were very good in getting me partners.

There were a large number of Mids and Subs present, but not more than 7 or 8 Lieuts from the whole fleet, and few girls, about 20 dancing girls. There being no Programmes, whoever was a good hand at cutting out, got the best of it. Thanks to my friends, I got many partners.

Had a whack of drill this morning, gear being foul aloft forward. We had to repeat the evolution several times, doing things in slow time, as we ought to have done long ago.

Had a grand meeting about the Mess this evening lasting 2 hours. Many propositions were carried. Messman to go, and Mess to be fitted up a little more than it is. Expect the Vigilant to come in hourly.

I should not be surprised if we were sent to Cuba on account of the row about the Virginians. I only hope that our heads may be shifted before going, for if not, fever will soon make its appearance.

27 November – Thursday

The Himalaya and Tamar came in this morning bringing the 3rd battalion of the Rifle Brigade and battalion Welsh Fusiliers, with a brigade of Artillery. The town, of course, was full of soldiers, most of them in the grey dress supplied for the occasion, the Govt. charging 28/– for a Norfolk coat and trousers.

Spoke to several of them who told me that the 42nd were under orders to come out, but I most sincerely trust they may not be ordered out.

I paid a visit to the Cossarts No.[?] and made the acquaintance of Madame, and then proceeded on with Smith to the Blandys and was introduced there. Had a game of billiards on a ¼ size table and Ingles, Commander of the Hercules coming up, we all went out for a ride, coming home by the New Road, a capital road for a gallop. Got to their house by about 6.30 and had high tea. After tea, I got the two youngest girls to sing and the evening passed away in whist &c.

The two troopers went out amidst much cheering and playing of bands. I was much struck at noticing on my ride the large amount of sugar that is grown and was told that it was owing to the blight that had fallen on the vine some few years ago and that this year another danger threatened, viz. by insects; that several vines had been destroyed already at the roots by these insects, but the late rains had killed them, making them sink deep into the earth and that lately none had been discovered; but, still there was the fear of eggs being left and means were being taken to find some way of destroying the eggs.

The grapes are still trodden out in the same old way to the sound of music and singing. The best wine is produced from the vineyards just to the Westward of Funchal. The cane (sugar) produces 7 or 8 crops.

Observed a Lunar Rainbow, on coming off.

28 November – Friday

My day off, but drilling until 4 pm prevented my going ashore at all. I think it is a great mistake trying to compete with ships until you have got your men well in hand. It only makes them wild and everything goes wrong, and everyone is made uncomfortable.

29 November – Saturday

Looking out for Usborne’s day duty. Managed to run ashore for a couple of hours, intending to copy a chart of the Ashantee Country. But on arriving up at the Blandys, found the second one (the pretty one) busily engaged copying, so the least I could do was to help her. The other girls getting my paper ready for me very kindly, but being tied down to time, I left my tracing paper up there and came off.

Found Smith in a hobble for having boarded Vigilant before she received pratique, having to send his reasons in for disobeying the Admiral’s order.

I received my ring and a large budget of letters from Home. Was very sorry at hearing of my grandmother’s very severe attack of Bronchitis, and glad to hear my mother has stood all the fatigue so well. She is most dutiful and loving, both as a daughter and a Mother. Was so glad, as I always am, at hearing from all the dear ones at Home – Father, Meta, Russ, Francie, Edith and Ella. Wrote Father and Russie. Dined this evening with Admiral Hornby – a small party.

30 November – Sunday

Being my day on board remained on board all day. Lunched with Oxley, Cardale of Northumberland, Dunlop, Dugdale and Castles, lunching with him also. Had a very good lunch, don’t think much of Cardale.

1 December – Monday

Drill all day.

At 4 o’c. the Blandys and two other ladies came on board, to have tea, had the band up and had tea in the Captain’s Cabin. Afterwards, went on shore and up to their house with Smith, had high tea there and afterwards finished my chart, with Henrietta B. to help me. Then was hauled into a game of whist, with the old people, lost 4/– and came away. Am very glad I have made their acquaintance, as they are very kind and hospitable, being very nice people indeed. The girls kindly gave me their photographs.

2 December – Tuesday

As mail is expected in, leave only granted until sunset.

Paid the Blandys a visit going up in hammock. The girls came out and laughed immensely at my laziness. Had a chat with them and walked round the garden with H.B. Went in most rabidly for ferns and flowers.

I noticed the young sister in a most marked manner, suddenly dropped out of sight, leaving us alone, and thoughts flashed across my mind, that perhaps, it was my duty to propose, however, I did not.

In the evening finding there was leave for the night, Smith, Denny and I went up to the Blandys, found McCrea, Ingles and Duthie up there. Rather too many fellows, stayed until 12 o’clock, much singing and round games going on, managed to lose some money. Had any amount of cautions from Henrietta Blandy about gambling, swore I never did such a thing.

Came down in a bullock cart.

3 December – Wednesday

West Coast mail (homeward) came in, brought news that Sir G. Wolseley was better and able to walk about on board Simoom . Ashantees retreating.

Leave being granted in sight of ships. Went ashore for a walk with Lowe, cut on the new road, Adm. Hornby passed us, but could not recognise us, until passing the second time and then he would not say “How d’ye do.”

Mail came in at 3 pm, but through some stupidity on Postman’s part, and someone else’s, we did not get our letters and they are at present on board the Flagship, for we got under way at 6 pm. Heard that the 42nd were going out to Ashantee.

DEPART MADEIRA

4 December – Thursday

Steaming along with sail set, wind from the Eastward. Captain dined in W.R. A most filthily greasy dinner, as ever I saw, put on.

5 December – Friday

Squadron separated for target practice. As we had none to expend, we rattled off some 3,000 rounds of rifle ammunition. I fired away some 60 rounds myself, my rifle getting quite hot. Drill same as last evening, shift main Topsail Yard and Jib-Booms. Made a great mess of it, men not knowing their stations and getting consequently very wild.

6 December – Saturday

Worked at French all the forenoon and made a chart of Ashantee this afternoon.

Kept 4 to 6, shortened sail and commenced steaming on our course. Shall most probably get in to Lisbon, Monday next.

7 December – Sunday

Nothing has happened, steaming all day.

ARRIVE LISBON

8 December – Monday

Arrived here today at 4 pm and on arrival got a bag of letters which went on board the flagship at Madeira and considering it has been like a millpond all the way, one would have thought, he would have stopped and delivered them.

One from Russ, one from Annie.

unday Dec 7th – I should add in yesterday’s notation, our having sighted a large steamer about 12 o’c, which on coming nearer proved to be the Sarmatian full of troops. She did not come near our line, and not very close to the other line, for they could not distinguish what troops they were. Bands were got up, but it surprised me that Admiral Hornby did not make any signal of welcome or cheer them.

Took some time mooring ship. I had the first watch, employed myself studying stars all the time.

9 December – Tuesday

Got the boats out this forenoon. One launch came down by the run from the netting. The Commander sang out “High enough lower away” in one breath, before the men had time to take a turn, so it was very clearly his fault. I always anticipated some accident and I don’t think it is the last we shall have. Most providentially no one was seriously hurt, a couple of boys were cut about in the head.

Dined with Admiral Hancock, sat next Captain Hoskins and opposite Fitz Roy. Smoked a couple of cigars after dinner, not such a stiff formal dinner, but yet not such a good one as Adm. Hornby’s.

Heard that the Bellerophon had run down a large merchant steamer off Cape de Verde, sinking her in 10 minutes, no lives lost. Capt. Hoskins told me he thought the men in Sarmatian were the B.W. [Black Watch] and so made his band play Scotch airs.

Wrote Meta a long cheering letter, and one to Edward which I enclosed to Miss Blandy at Madeira, the Vigilant going this forenoon, Capt. Cleveland kindly took it for me.

10 December – Wednesday

Wrote Russie, Mother and Rob. Heard from Henry. Mrs Graham coming on board went in and paid her a visit, she told me she had written to Meta to cheer her up.

Went out to the Campo Pequeno, a general semaphore having been made that football would take place. I went out there and found only some dozen fellows there and I, the only W.R. officer. However, we divided into sides and went at it, but had to soon knock off, for it came out pretty hot and with such a small number playing we all soon got blowed.

11 December – Thursday

Kept the morning watch. We got all ready for coaling by 6 am; lighters placed (stern to stern), but to our disgust no baskets had come, although promised, so we had to commence with buckets and tubs &c. However about 8.15 they came and the men soon shovelled away clearing the lighters of 350 tons in no time. It is much the quickest way of coaling. The Commander invested in 80 baskets giving £4 for the lot.

Heard that Captain Hoskins expected me to dinner last night, found a blooming error had been made in the semaphore somewhere. (Wrote Mother, Meta, Rus, Rob). Our signalman reading it, from Capt. of Eleven to Capt. of Eleven, and their signalmen saying they made Capt. Hoskins to Lieut Hall. So as the two are not much alike there is hard swearing one side or the other. Went on board Sultan and explained mistake to Capt. Hoskins.

Saw Ponsonby, who kindly showed me all over the Sultan, which is in very good order and is a most splendid ship. Kept Usborne’s afternoon, he having gone away with McDermott for a three days’ shooting trip.

See in today’s papers that news of Bellerophon accident has reached England.

My letters written yesterday went today in English Royal Mail, so they ought to arrive on Sunday.

12 December – Friday

Heard from my Aunt at Gibraltar who told me of some thief having stolen all Harry’s cups (five in number won at athletics) and all his regimental jewellery.

Heard by telegram of Bazaine’s sentence being commuted from death to twenty years detention in fortress.

14 December – Sunday

Mustered by Open List and had short service. After lunch McDermott, Prowett, and I went for a walk going out by the Eastern gate (Number 23) and walking round outside the walls to No 7. On the way round we went into the Portuguese Cemetery and we saw the big trenches that they bury paupers in, and whilst there I saw one of the [strangest] burials it has been my lot to see.

We heard a bell tinkle at the gate and looking round saw two priests, one fat and round as a berry and the other lean and hungry looking, coming along accompanied by some dozen persons, laughing and talking and four of them carrying a box with oval top and covered with yellow cloth striped with black. They walked up to a new made grave and laid the box down, and without more ado, opened the lid, one fellow took the body out by the hands, and the other slung a rope under the feet and soon put the body (of a girl) in its last resting place.

The fat priest gabbled not more than twelve words and then gaily ambled away over the graves, followed by his lean and hungry looking companion. A man took a basket of lime, first having jumped down in the grave, and trod on the body to press it down, and then he threw the lime over the body and the other beggars shovelled the earth down. The whole thing was done in from three to four minutes and I must say, it struck me, a little more reverence might have been shown, for a young man and woman (I conclude his Polly) were skylarking around the edge of the grave and laughing as they nearly fell in. To me there is something very mysterious and awful in Death, in one way.

We got on board for dinner.

15 December – Monday

Drill all the forenoon the men drilled much better, everything going on much more steadily and quietly than usual.

In the afternoon, I had made up my mind to go ashore, but was detained on board through several reasons, inspection of Ham’ks., bedding, Fire Quarters, &c. which brought me up to 5 pm.

The ‘Demon’ being in one of his usual variable humours, of course, made himself entirely disagreeable to everyone. Save me from sailing with him, with no one over him to check him. If he ever gets a ship as a Capt., I’m certain she will be very uncomfortable and a very discontented ship.

The Vigilant came in this evening, bringing news from Madeira. Sir G W well again, I got a letter from Miss Blandy.

17 December – Wednesday

Heard from Home yesterday the mails having come by Vigilant from Madeira. This forenoon we were inspected by Admiral Hornby, he coming on board at 9.30, and making us send down I. jlr [?]. Masts and then crossing Royal Yards exercising at General Quarters, Boarders, Fire-Brigade, passing up shell and powder.

In the afternoon, manned and armed boats, Fire Quarters and I put a small arms company through their exercise. This finished the first day’s inspection.

In the evening the Pacific Mail coming in, brought me a couple of letters from Home and one from Lily. Wrote the latter.

18 December – Thursday

Admiral finished inspection today by mustering beds &c., bags and hooks. I think he was tolerably satisfied.

I went ashore in the afternoon and paid Mrs Graham a visit and after dinner went to a large teetotal meeting, at which the Sultan nigger troupe, (all good templars), performed, Ponsonby bringing them out. I was rather surprised to see him and did not think it was in his line. There were about 250 bluejackets present, most being teetotallers. Was glad to see my servant Elliss there, who has taken my advice and gone in for it. He was enrolled one of the I.O.G.T. last night, so he told me.

19 December – Friday

Alas! we are to remain behind to await the arrival of Eclipse from England with supernumaries, and also to go out and meet Aurora outside the bar, passing over to her invalids and prisoners having of the latter 15 from the fleet. So, I trust Eclipse may come in soon.

Prepared for action this morning, made a mess of sending Fore Topsail Yard down. So, this afternoon did it all over again. So, with the exception of my meal hours, I had been on deck from 4 am to 3.30 pm, it being my day off. I can see that we shall be always last and always drilling, unless we go to work the right way in drilling the men. They should be drilled slowly and made to do things well and steadily, before attempting to compete with other ships. We should have done it, when laying in Tagus by ourselves; and I said then it was not the right way to go about it, drilling the men before they had steadied down.

I attribute much of the fault to C.L.O and wonder at Capt. G. not doing it in a different style. It certainly is not Brandreth’s way of doing business. Wrote to Father, Mother, Rus, Rob, Meta and Francie. Mail steamer going this evening and hoping to save Xmas day in England.

20 December – Saturday

Thick fog which delayed the fleet sailing until the afternoon.

21 December – Sunday

Went ashore to Church, and came off to keep afternoon watch, and went to evening church again in company with Warleigh, drinking tea first at Pope’s. After the service, went with Capt. and Mrs Graham and had supper. French Corvette arrived in.

22 December – Monday

No leave between sunrise and sunset, as we are all ready to slip out at a moment’s notice to meet the Aurora, but she did not appear.

Drilled during the forenoon. Vigilant came in from Madeira. No news.

23 December – Tuesday

At 8.30 am a man of war was seen coming in, thought at first it was Aurora, and commenced to get under weigh. It turned out to be the Eclipse from England. We passed her off Belem signalling to her that we would be back during the day some time. We cruised about off the mouth of the River, but saw no signs of Aurora. Had a chase after one ship, but it turned out to be a three masted schooner, so just before dusk we came in.

24 December – Wednesday

Employed all the forenoon ashore doing different things, taking a cutter with me, fully provisioned in case ship sailed, whilst I was employed ashore. However, I fetched off about 12 o’clock, and was going to sail a cutter against the Comdr, in his gig, during the afternoon, when a large ship was reported off the bar, which ship eventually turned out to be the Aurora.

We got the anchor up immediately and met her off Belem; but she let go her anchor, and signalled to us to do the same; as she had five tons of stores to send, so, it was not long before we had out pinnace and whipped the whole lot on board and hoisted pinnace in again, all ready for starting in the morning. Sent letters and figures (clay) &c. to Captain Douglas for my people at home.

25 December – CHRISTMAS DAY

Getting up anchor this morning, instead of proceeding to sea, we steamed up the river again and dropped Killick, in the same old place; for the Admiralty had telegraphed out, to send artificers to Vigilant, to have her ready by the 28th.

Sir Alex’d. Milne telegraphing he would supersede the Chief Engineer, if she was not ready, (her boilers require scaling badly). So we sent ten men to work in her and telegraphed to Adm. Hornby to know if we should come at once, or wait for Vigilant to sail, so he said do the latter.

We had a short service and then the usual march round, and eating of duffs, &c. Warleigh informing us he had eaten 26 pieces of duff, on his way round. The afternoon today passed off uncommonly quiet, none of the officers were carried round, some young ords. and boys went to the G.R. and were rather demonstrative, which they paid for very dear; as they were knocked about a good deal. One fellow, B--e by name, licking one fellow most unmercifully with a stick, no resistance. I saw it and thought it most cowardly. Had a quiet dinner in W.R. and kept the Middle watch afterwards.

26 December – Friday

Prepared for action this forenoon. The Eclipse sailed for Madeira this forenoon. Remained on board all day.

27 December – Saturday

Turned out at 4 am together with Lowe, Farquhar and Ottley, as we intended going up to C. for the day. Having devoured some breakfast we anxiously looked out for the boat that we had ordered at 4, but no boat arrived, owing, I suppose to the lightning &c. We waited and waited most patiently, still no boat, and at 7 we had to decide to give up C. and go to a place some eight miles from Casilhas called Filhas d’Amor, at which place are some extensive pinewoods. We managed to get a ship’s boat at 8 and landed at Casillas and soon bargained for donkeys at 2/– for the day.

We did not take long mounting and were soon off; five of us, my servant accompanying us. It rained cats and dogs. Two boys followed with goads, prodding the donkeys up, who kept up a sort of half trot the whole way. We had some fun on the way. The donkeys rolling over sometimes, and sending gun and rider flying but, it being soft ground, did not matter much. We got out a little before 10 am and alighting at the inn, a very clean place, immediately ordered some hot coffee and eggs, which we found uncommonly good. Then leaving our donkeys there, we set out, (wet pretty well through) for the pine woods and beat about there some two or three hours, howling &c. but to little purpose, as we saw but two, or three woodcocks the whole time. It was very poor sport, so we then turned out of the wood and looked for snipe, but with as bad a success. Farquhar shot a woodcock which was the only thing we got the whole day, only two or three cartridges being fired the whole time.

So, making for the inn again, after eating some more eggs and omelettes, (the latter article of which I learnt to make) we started for home and got down to Casillas at 6 pm. Coming off to the ship by 7. Denny returned from Azambuja, with Prowett bringing a good bag of snipe and woodcocks. Vigilant sailed.

DEPART LISBON

28 December – Sunday

Started this morning at 6 am for Vigo, passed Mafra about 10 am. It seems a tremendous large pile of building with two immense towers, at each end and a large dome and two high towers in centre. Country around it seems very poor, it has a surrounding of small hovels and houses. Commands good view of the sea. Passed the Malabar steaming to the southward and a lot of English SS. A good deal of friction going on again, I expect that Cdr Hby [?]. will have to go.

ARRIVE VIGO

29 December – Monday

Running along the coast with a good fresh breeze, and as we are steaming too, we easily get nine knots out of her (more friction going on). Arrived at Vigo about 7 pm and found the Flag here. Livelyjust left for Lisbon. Got our mails, I got a large budget of letters (from Meta) and some mistletoe and holly, which has come however, rather late.

30 December – Tuesday

This afternoon accompanied by Smith, I went ashore and vainly endeavoured to find my little friend the Contessa, and her Mother the Countess. I found that nothing was known of them at all. So we took a walk out into the country, and strolled through the lanes, that I knew so well. Had a game of billiards with Smith at the Casino, he thrashed my head off.

31 December – Wednesday

This was the first day of the regatta, the pulling races coming off today, it rained most of the day, coming down in showers. We did not manage to win many prizes. Saw the old year out and new year in, held a convivial meeting in W.R. with the Gun Room fellows.

1874

1 January – Thursday

Another new year born.

The sailing races came off today. We did not manage to win any. I sailed one of the launches, and came in 5th.

2 January – Friday

Today we sailed for the Admiral’s Cup – some forty boats starting out of 50 that entered. I didn’t start at all fair, being in the act of winding my boat when the gun fired. However by means of my huge Tp. glt. studsail, I soon ran past all the boats and was first round No 1 Buoy with the exception of some of the Gigs and Pinnaces, the former having 8 minutes start and the latter 7 minutes.

We then had to beat up to No 2 Buoy and alas! I soon found out the Cup was not for me. The Comdr in his lateen rigged gig and Britten in his yacht rigged like Pinnace taking the lead, together with the Admiral’s Barge. But, the race was not to the swift, not the strong, for it fell a dead calm about 3 pm and after all the boats drifting about until 5 pm the general recall was made and race given up for this day.

3 January – Saturday

We sailed again today with a tremendous breeze and I wished I’d had more than six rum casks and twelve breakers for I found that hardly enough. The Admiral’s Barge soon went over bottom up and several boats stopped and went to her assistance, however, I kept on, seeing the number that surrounded her, and went round the course once and had hardly done so when I fell into the doldrums. A few boats kept the wind and scuttled away and whilst I was lopping about in a calm, I saw the Comdr, rounding No 1 Buoy again and bringing a spanking breeze with him. He rounded No 2 Buoy first, followed by two Cutters 500 yds, astern, but then fell into the doldrums, by going a little too close into the shore. The cutters passed him, he then got the wind and all three boats came in, the Comdr losing by a boat’s length.

The Agincourt band played Cheer up Sam to Oxley as he passed. The Hercules pinnace went over some time during the afternoon. So the Committee have decided it must be raced again, much to Cardale’s vexation and disappointment, who had come in the leading boat. We weigh tomorrow for Corcubion. Wrote my Father and Rus.

DEPART VIGO

ARRIVE CORCUBION

4 January – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon with McDermott and Lowe for a stroll, we walked through hedges and down lanes, a very pretty walk and got down to the trout stream going along it some way. Saw some fish and turned a snipe up. Collected a lot of ivy, and brought it on board for pressing. The whole country, looks more as if it was in the Spring than in the middle of the winter, the trees only bear witness by their leafless condition as to what season of the year it is. On arriving on board, find that we have to await the arrival of Enchantress.

5 January – Monday

Heard of the coup d’état that has occurred at Madrid, Castelar clearing out a lot of objectionable members from the Cortes.

6 January – Tuesday

This afternoon Enchantress came in. We sighted her at 12.30 pm and she was at it by 7.10 pm. So, she came along a good rate up the bay. She brought any amount of letters and papers. I received several from my Father, 2 Mother, Rob, Meta and Capt. Fellowes, the latter, of course, was full of yarns &c. My father wrote me a very long one indeed and my Mother also who told me how devoted all the women in Ropery were to her and what pleasant meetings they had every week, but, I regret to say that old Russ gives much anxiety with regard to his extravagance and bills. Rob went yesterday to a school in Germany, I trust the lad will do well and not forget his Home teaching. Wrote letters to Lily, Mother, Father, Russ, Rob, Meta to go home by Mail steamer tomorrow and wrote to Edward by Enchantress.

7 January – Wednesday

Started early this forenoon for Corcubion meeting a stiff S. W’ly wind outside which soon ripened into a gale.

8 January – Thursday

Blowing a S. W’ly gale. Fleet laying off Cape Finisterre, just about the spot the unfortunate Captain was lost, under close reefed Topsails and reefed courses, helm jammed hard up. It hardly matters what sail is set, with regard to the carrying of the helm, wearing at different times during the day, and previous night. Parson seasick, as usual.

9 January – Friday

Still blowing fierce about 9, but wind breaking. Ship beginning to roll pretty heavily, a tremendous crash in my cabin, ink-pot over photograph book, and a few such playful frolics going on. Some difficulty in eating dinner, with ship rolling.

10 January – Saturday

A fine morning, my throat being somewhat sore during the last week was not improved by wearing ship last night and then furling sails etc. Fleet came in and anchored in Corcubion Bay, by no means a badly sheltered bay, at least the inner bay in which we are in. For Corcubion Bay proper is a large inlet of the Sea, Cape Finisterre on the north and open to the SW but, at the end of the Bay another small inlet runs up to the north and is only open to the south’d. But, from this direction even no great sea can get up, for several reefs run across, which can be seen from deck, leaving a zigzag passage in. In this small Bay, a double line of ships to the number of 20 can be safely moored. Have been on deck all day and am pretty well tired out.

11 January – Sunday

Went ashore this afternoon with McDermott and strolled through several very dirty villages, (much resembling I should think an Irish village) full of pits and little else except dirt. Houses built of stone and rather ancient looking, streets crooked and narrow, nothing to be got in the shape of grub, so our caterers are at their wits’ end to provision us. Plenty of women about, not very good looking, not many men.

All the villages possess a market cross with images of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary and the Churches have pretty little belfry towers, quite unique of their kind. The Country is very bleak, mountainous, and rocky, very hard and rough walking, a good road leads away, I think to Corunna. It is one peculiarity of Spain, that whilst everything is so backward, its roads can compete with any country. Dined with Capt. Hoskins, Sultan.

12 January – Monday

After General Quarters this forenoon, I shouldered my gun and taking Elliss with me, tramped over the hills through thick gorse which tickles me up somewhat, above my gaiters. I started at 11 o’c and continued on the walk almost continually until 5 pm but during that interval I saw very few partridges, and only had a good shot at one, on the hill, just abreast the ship and opposite Corcubion.

To get good shooting it is requisite to have a dog and go some little way into the Country. Passed over a very pretty trout stream which flows into the sea, by the beach at head of bay.

13 January – Tuesday

Nothing going on. Heard a yarn about Sir John Jervis, who was very particular that all rope yarns when swept up should be put into a bag abaft the mainmast, which rather non-plussed poor Jack. Well a certain Captain Jenkins rather fought against this order, which Lord St V. knew; and one day it happened that Captain J. was going alongside flagship, as a large piece of oakum floated from the Head. The Admiral seeing it float by sang out; “Captain J, Captain J. will you be kind enough to pick up yarn floating by, that belongs to Her Majesty’s Stores.” Captain J. looking at it said, “It is dirty, my lord. It is dirty, my lord. Then wash it Captain J, then wash it”, which Capt. J. did and brought on board, being a lesson to him to be more careful how he fought against his superiors.

DEPART CORCUBION

ARRIVED AROSA BAY

14 January – Wednesday

Having unmoored last night, we had only the single anchor to heave up this morning, and left Corcubion bay at 7 am. I shall be very glad indeed at leaving the Channel Fleet, for it is really a case of worry, worry all day long, and not possessing a Commander who knows how to oil the machinery, it is also a case of much friction added to the worry. The Lieut scored one against him, yesterday with regard to being excused when middle watch. He made himself as disagreeable as he possibly could about it.

Arrived and anchored in Arosa Bay (a large well sheltered bay, full of rocks however, and with several small towns round it) at 4 pm. Having middle watch, must run in, as I intend going up to Santiago tomorrow, D.V.

15 January – Thursday

This morning, after breakfasting, Usborne and I started off in steam launch with a lot of other fellows, (including Iva Diavols [?]), from this ship and on way through the fleet picked up a small host of fellows from the different ships and had proceeded about half way ashore, when Hulbert in charge of steam launch suddenly discovered there was a marvellous small amount of water in boiler and that the feed pump was out of order and would not pump. As soon as the fact became known an imperceptible move was made to the stern as far from the boiler as possible. Boats hailed up the flag-ship’s cutter and moved off at once with their officers. Captain took Usborne and me, the fires had to be thrown overboard, and steam let off, so launch of course, was useless. Eventually all the fellows got ashore, by some means or other.

On arriving at the Station, we found ourselves an hour too soon and the small station was crowded with an army of naval officers in mufti, from the Admiral down to the Mids! We all got complimentary tickets and first class carriages, starting at 11 o’c. We steered for Santiago some 20 odd miles off, passing through pretty thickly wooded, but not to my mind a very rich country. But, as we did not pass through any large valleys, I daresay we did not see the best country. The hills are rocky and not well wooded. About a few miles outside Villagarcia we passed over a good wide river that runs into the harbour.

In about an hour and a half’s time we first sighted Santiago, in the shape of its large Cathedral, the towers topping up high in the distance. In another half hour’s time we ran into the station and found a large crowd of people waiting to look at us. Amongst them a lot of pretty senoritas, the good people had expected us all up in uniform and deputations had come to meet the Admiral who was regularly caught in his own trap, for he was in mufti, on an occasion when he might really have thought twice about not going in uniform.

Usborne and I cleared ourselves from the throng and shaped course for the town, passing crowds of people going down to the station to go to the fleet, (handbills being stuck up all over the place saying the ships were thrown open to the public). After getting some lunch at the Cafe, we had a look at the Cathedral, a large building built in the form of a Cross, its West Front being the finest. Had a look at St James’ tomb and kissed his head, getting 80 days indulgence for it.

There are numerous chapels in the Cathedral, but all rather tawdry and in usual R.C. style. The town is poor, large, contains 30,000 people; the town was full, being a market day and looked bright and lively, the women wearing those very bright kerchiefs on their heads.

The town has some historical interest for us Islanders, John of Gaunt having conquered and kept possession of it for some time. It is a great place of pilgrimages for the Spaniards.

Leaving the place at 4 pm we did not get down until 6.30 and on coming down to the beach found the boats could not get within 150 yds of the beach, so Usborne and I off trousers and waded out. Not finding our boats, we drew the Hercules out and then they drew the Agincourt and the latter the Sultans, so eventually some 50 Naval Officers were paddling about with their trousers off, howling like anything for their boats. Ultimately we found one dingy and by making a lot of trips we got all the fellows off to our steam launch and we got on board at 8 pm. The boats should have gone higher up to Carrel where there is a Mole. We made a good dinner. Wrote home (F).

16 January – Friday

A slashing breeze all this forenoon, so, off some 30 boats started I steering the galley, but soon dropped astern. After rounding No 2 Buoy the wind veered right round and came on extremely strong and the boats were all going a tremendous rate, my boat trembling with that delightful noise, so dear to anyone that enjoys sailing a boat. On nearing the No 3 Buoy a very heavy squall came down and I had to brail up my sails and take my masts down for fear of the boat capsizing.

As I was the last boat, it did not matter much. The Barge that was leading had to reef, otherwise she would have capsized and pinnace came in first almost sailing on her side, winning by 55 seconds. Comdr. coming in 3rd. Therefore Britten wins the Cup. Two boats capsized, Northumberland’s cutter and Hercules’ dingy. No one lost, I got on board at 2 and had lunch with the Captain.

DEPART AROSA BAY

ARRIVE VIGO

21 January – Wednesday

Have been so uncommonly busy that I really have not had time to write up my journal.

Monday 19th last we left Arosa Bay reaching Vigo a few hours afterwards; finding Ariel in here. I’ve been very busy getting all the books up with regard to the seamanship of the ODs and boys, as charge of them has been turned over to me. I’m excused watch in harbour, unless any drill is going on, and then I’ve got to come on deck and carry on. I’ve also to do Guard Duty. I commenced my new duties yesterday forenoon, and don’t think I shall find it a sinecure; more especially as some 70 odd boys have been put into my division.

We leave this afternoon for Lisbon. Meeting Revenge there. I hear Sir I. Dacres has retired, which makes my Father two from the top of Rear Admiral. Wrote home yesterday and to Russ.

DEPART VIGO

23 January – Friday

The Mail came in yesterday, but brought me no letter. We sailed from Vigo at about 9 am with a light wind astern, have been steaming along the coast, sighting the Berlengas at 6 this evening. Busy this afternoon with my Boys and Ords. find some of them extremely backward.

ARRIVE LISBON

25 January – Sunday

Arrived in here yesterday at noon and after the mooring, unbending sails etc. was over, the men must have been pretty tired. The two head people not getting on together, makes everyone else uncomfortable, and we fall in for any amount of extra drills etc which quite wears one out.

Heard on arrival of the dissolution of Parliament; marriage of the Duke of Edinburgh with great pomp etc.

Went to the English Church both morning and evening, very full in the morning, took young Handy in the evening. Spoke to Admiral Sartorius, the senior Admiral on the list. Usborne heard of his promotion by telegraph, I’m very glad he has got it, but sorry to lose him. Heard from my Mother.

26 January – Monday

General leave, so no drill, took bags etc and away part of the day in steam launch, it being my guard. Comdr had a large party of Comdrs on board to dinner. Rawson, Ingles, Cardale, and Warren, Lieut of Lively, Dugdale of Triumph. After dinner we adjourned to Comdr’s. cabin and smoked and playing Las, in which I did not join not being able to afford it.

29 January – Thursday

Just come off from some Penny Readings at the Sailors’ Reading Rooms, the Sultans under Ponsonby’s guidance being the chief performers. Comdr Markham and several others read and we had a lot of songs, some very fairly sung. Bought some old books today for a mere song, giving 200 reis for 3 volumes of Lord Chesterfield’s Letters and 500 reis for 6 volumes of Richardson’s Sir Charles Grandison. General leave being given, I’ve not had much to do, with the exception of Guard Duty.

Received an invitation from Adm. Sartorius to a musical party tomorrow night. Saw his flag, the Union Jack at the main saluted, the first time I’ve seen an Admiral of Fleet’s flag saluted. Heard a good joke by Pope this evening. When is a Captain of a ship heavily clothed? When he wears his ship. Carrow our new Lieut comes out in Revenge.

Gladstone notifies in his speech that he will do away with Income Tax, it will give my Father about £35 a year more, of which, I’m very glad.

31 January – Saturday

Running about all yesterday in steam launch boarding vessels. Revenge came in at 10 am and stayed until 2 pm bringing a lot of officers and men. We got a Lieut Carrow, wears spectacles and is very shortsighted. I should think would drop in for any amount of rows about not keeping station, besides Carrow we got 2 subs. Langdale and Burke and three Mids, N.C.Rolleston, Burden and Blake. I got nothing by her, much to my disappointment, as I expected some parcels and a bicycle.

I very nearly got into a serious scrape in the afternoon. I took 10 bags of Mails down to Pacific mail steamer, and as she was in quarantine, I could not get a receipt for them, and in passing them in, I only passed in 8 and did not discover the other two until I was back alongside my ship. I then immediately shoved off, put her under as much steam as she could bear and rattled off for Belem again.

To my horror, I saw Mail steamer was underway. Fortunately for me, her head was up stream and she took some time in turning and I got down to Belem in time, and only just in time, and very thankful I was to, for I expect there would have been Old Harry to play if I had missed her.

In the evening, getting Smith to take my guard, I steered for Sir George Sartorius, Senior Admiral in Navy, for I had received invitation to a musical, dancing party. I had a talk with the old man, who told me about Ld Collingwood, and I promised to bring him up some letters of his. Miss S. the youngest is by no means bad looking. There were a good many Portuguese there and I actually found myself dancing vis-à-vis to a live Admiral. I left at 2.30 am and got up this morning pretty early to take guard report to flag-ship. After lunch, I made for Sir George’s and brought to in his drawing room, giving him a lot of old letters, Anson’s, Collingwood’s, Claud Shevolis’s [?] and St Vincent’s and had a talk with the pretty Miss S. Upon my word, my heart and my heels were tripped up at the same moment last night in dancing with her.

Afterwards, I walked out to the cricket ground and found the marines had beaten us by 26 runs, owing to the bad generalship on our side. Walked in and dined on board, receiving a letter from home.

2 February – Monday

Yesterday remained on board and took the Holy Communion in company with Usborne and Lowe. In the evening went with Usborne to evening service, taking young Charrington with us. After service going into Popes, and chin-chinning with the Sartorius family.

This forenoon we had sail drill and afternoon manned and armed boats. I went away in Pinnace and Bedford who was inspecting all the boats sang out to me “What water are you in?” thinking to catch me on the ground hop. Fortunately, I had a lead, but not enough line, however, knowing the depth of water I sang out confidently “11 fms” at which B. grinned as I did also.

After dinner a lot of us went to the bazaar and the place was crammed full of people. I was assailed by any amount of pretty girls and of course found myself also, as much to my astonishment as to anyone else’s, walking about with a doll on my arm; the lady who sold it, assuring me in a most solemn manner, it had all its clothes on; then a belt rather expensive, but the damsel looked at me smiling so sweetly, and saying, “Wouldn’t you buy it, for it is all my own work?”. I said, “Wouldn’t I!” and out came 10/. Donald, Denny and Warleigh, distinguishing themselves by getting us lotteries and raffles.

5 February – Thursday

Heard from both Russ and Lel, long letters. Russ tells me, N C is looking forward to having a good flirtation with me when I go to London, so I sent word back, I was keeping myself in trim.

Last Tuesday went to a Ball given at the Lisbon Club, touching at the Bazaar on the way, find the Lisbonese go very late indeed. It is a very good club indeed, and a fine ball room. Got introduced to the pretty widow, Mrs Anderson, and opened the Ball with her in the shape of a Waltz, as no one else would start.

Came away early and had to be out early next morning at 4 am to board Enchantress from Madeira. She brought very good news, 1,100 seamen and marines within a day’s march of Coomassie [Kumasi] and 200 ‘sajers’, expected to be there by 23rd so by this time it ought to be very nearly over.

Yesterday afternoon, being invited by Comdr Rawson, I went on board the Hercules to an afternoon dance, and a very pleasant little dance it was too, just the right number of gentlemen and ladies. The Sartorius’ were there and the widow – with both of which I danced. The Hercules is in magnificent order.

In the evening after dinner, I went to the Opera to see Matilda de Chabran by Rossini. The House was full; every box, pit and stall. King and Queen there, Sartorius there and paid them a visit in their Box. The Opera is serio-comic and has some very pretty duets in it. The Soprano, Orolaine Triberini sang very well and her acting was faultless, and the Contralto, Marchesio (whom, I heard five years ago), was also beautiful, a most full, rich, mellow and powerful voice; as is Triberini’s also, and it was most exquisite when the two sang duets together, perfectly ravishing. I came away very pleased, got on board at 1 o’c and turned out early this morning to unmoor which took from 6 – 9 and we got underway at 11 o’c. steering for Madeira, Mrs Graham taking a passage in Agincourtwith Admiral H. Old Usborne went away yesterday in steamer, with Laprimandaye who has retired from service and is going home. He gave me all the late news of Rapid which is at Cadiz.

DEPART LISBON

8 February – Sunday

Steaming down to Madeira, about 4 knots, we have had very fine weather, light head winds hitherto. Tried at a Target Friday last and went to night quarters. 12 o’clock that evening, just as we beat off, Smith went down in an epileptic fit, brought on, I’m sorry to say there is no doubt, from drink. I don’t think he will keep watch again and the wisest thing he can do is to leave ship or retire, more especially as the Capt. is pretty sure to inform Admiral about it.

Had two youngsters to dine with me, Barber and De Lisle. Heard a very fair yarn from Donald.

A couple just married and going to drive off, a tremendous great band-box was put on front seat of carriage, and husband seeing it was in the way said “Put it on top of carriage.” Wife said, “Please don’t. Keep it here.” Husband just giving in, when butler put his head into window and said, “Master, band-box now, band-box ever.” Husband said at once firmly, “Put that band-box on top of carriage” and handing a £5 note to butler said, “You’ve saved me.”

Had a charity sermon this morning and a collection afterwards, using sponge covers for bags, but getting only £2.2s.

10 February – Tuesday

Been turning circles all day in pairs, Agincourt and ourselves making up one pair. It was to determine whether a ship going at different speeds, makes the same diameter in a circle, a Frenchman saying they make the same. I was up at Moorsom’s director all day, from 8.30 until 5.30, and the first watch after that, so I had quite enough of it.

ARRIVE MADEIRA

13 February – Friday

Came here last Wednesday in forenoon, and that evening went to a Ball given by Lord Dunalley, who is staying here with his daughter about 19, his son being in the Rifles out at Ashantee. It was a very pleasant dance. I met the Blandys there. The room was so very tastefully got up, I don’t think I’ve ever seen flowers and ferns arranged better.

Last night, I spent up at the Blandys and on returning on board at 11 o’c and having been asleep a couple of hours, had a rouse out at 2 and go aboard mail steamer just arrived, getting news from Cape Coast of 27th Jan. Capt. Blake’s death and the near approach of Naval Brigade (leading) and troops to Coomassie. This morning, we had xxx and this afternoon, I went ashore, making a call on Capt. and Mrs G. meeting Prittie there, then after talking and arranging about the dance with Capt. and his Dame, I went a shopping, buying sticks and little things for Capt’s. dance tomorrow.

14 February – Saturday

The Dance was most successful, ship decorated well, and deck well chalked (for which I take credit). There were a great number of people there, but the sexes very well divided. The Mail came in about six pm and brought me a couple of letters, one from my Mother and the other from my Father, which alas! was a long letter, containing news of Russ, who, I sadly fear is causing much anxiety and expense to our parents. I shall be very glad indeed to get near him; for he is very unstable and requires much ballast.

England full of election. The Conservatives are, I’m glad to say carrying everything before them. Wrote a long letter to Russ.

15 February – Sunday

Went ashore in cutter and brought the Baroness Keffenbrinck-Ascheraden and Mrs Wordsworth off, the former being the daughter of Count Keelmansegge, aforetime German Ambassador in England and the latter granddaughter of the poet. Sent Charrington and Harford ashore for a ride, the Baroness standing horses and at 6 pm went ashore myself, to dine there. She is residing at the Vigia, a lovely place, overlooking the Looe Rock, most charming gardens, with a house to match, everything beautifully laid out and plants and shrubs of all descriptions growing in superabundance. Had a very quiet good dinner and spent a very quiet pleasant evening, made the acquaintance of Wordsworth senior, the Baron and Mr Hannington, a very gentlemanly fellow. They were all excessively kind to the youngsters, and made very much of them.

16 February – Monday

Drilled my boys etc. this forenoon. Agincourt dance came off, in spite of its blowing hard. Joined Oxley’s party this evening, three Comdrs. etc they all adjourned to cabin above for gambling at which I did not assist.

17 February – Tuesday

This afternoon, a most enjoyable party at the Baroness’, our Band played and played extremely well. I was in a mortal funk of its being late, as the Jolly was detained 20 minutes for butcher. However by dint of hurrying them up, I got them up just in time. There were a tremendous number of naval officers there, but I managed to get as many dances as I required; a splendid room for dancing.

19 February – Thursday

Hercules tea party came off this afternoon, I believe notwithstanding Lent, many danced, when the band struck up. Lowe and I went ashore for a walk toiling up the hill to the Mount Church literally running with perspiration. It took us about an hour getting up. I dropped into the Blandys on the way and got some flowers. We came down in a sleigh after admiring the scenery very much, and did some little shopping in the town; came off to dinner. Hannington, a fellow staying at the Vigia, dining with me.

After dinner we went to the Sultan Chrysty’s. Found a good many ladies there notwithstanding two other ships also giving entertainment of a similar character. (Agincourt giving theirs ashore). Ponsonby led the duties, it was a very good affair, especially the song composed by the occasion about Naval Brigade. Everett was very good at his tricks. In the break-down we were all kept on tenterhooks, for the leader, most energetic fellow, had split his breeches in front and we were all afraid of an exposé. Lots of liquor and cigars about, got on board 11.30.

21 February – Saturday

The Mail coming in this forenoon, caused us to up anchor and turn our head towards Lisbon. I got several letters by her, one from my father and the others from others of the family; all well, Edward expected home about end of March, from Cape Coast, so we shall both arrive home about the same time. Wrote Ned.

Last night the Baroness’ party came off. The gardens were very well lit up, some 5,000 small lights being used for the purpose, besides large ones; a large Eagle, Anchor, and V.R. being displayed. Sultan’s band playing, a fine night, stars shining out, numerous groups of naval officers in epaulettes etc. strolling about, many with fair damsels on their arms, strains of sweet music, shady walks. What could be more enchanting or more decisive in shape of an ultimatum to officers of the fleet, however, nothing I’m sorry to say (for the Madeira lasses sake) came of it.

I left at 10.30 bidding good-bye to my kind friends the Blandys. Smith and I had the two eldest off to tea yesterday afternoon. We’ll be up at 4 am and with the spray of the briny, our hearts soon get restored to their usual state. I’m afraid, a naval officer though sometimes caught, goes about too much from “post to post” to get thoroughly melted, and does not remain long eno’ at any one place.

DEPART MADEIRA

23 February – Monday

A quiet Sunday, steaming since leaving Madeira, at a steady rate, with an east wind against us. Fleet, trying most economical rate of steaming, find ours is 1 knot, not a racing speed. Smith going to Lisbon with us, invalided, and strange infatuation going in for L. same as before. He can’t last long, if he will continue in same course.

24 February – Tuesday

Steam Tactics, all day. This evening just after drill, Enchantress hove in sight and soon came up signalling news of battle loss on our side 240 killed and wounded. By semaphore we got more particulars, the Naval Brigade losing 39, 42nd. 109, 23rd 53, Rifles 20, Rawson’s brother and Capt. Grabbe wounded.

ARRIVE LISBON

27 February – Friday

Came in this afternoon, and its blowing so hard caused us to moor without swivel, close under the South Shore. Heard by telegram of the formation of Ministry and think Dizzy has a very strong one, with a majority of 50 in House of Commons. Heard from Home.

28 February – Saturday

Been working at cables all the day from 7.30 am to 6 pm except the dinner hour. Altogether we have in somewhere near 60 shackles of cable, for, after unmooring and getting over to N side of river, we moored and put the swivel on; but Admiral made signal to shift as we were a point out in bearing.

Heard by telegram of our being ordered Home by 10th or thereabouts. So we are to leave on the 7th.

1 March – Sunday

Last night, at 11.30 pm I went on deck and heard the Vigilant heaving in, so, as Comdr was asleep, I took dingy and lowered her down on my own hook; as, I was very anxious to send a letter to the Coast to Edward. I just got on board in time, and gave my letter to Capt. Cleveland, who told me of Koomassie being taken on the 4th after five days fighting. It was a most welcome piece of news but, I’m sorely afraid there will be a long list of casualties, and I hope they will soon be back as Peace was to be signed on the 5th. Heard from Home and of dear Russell’s merciful preservation from being crushed at a Ball, the floor giving way and he being precipitated down to flat below, a lady underneath and one above, and a large buffet within an inch or two of his head. Fortunately no one was seriously hurt.

Yesterday, I went up to Custom House and found a parcel for me there, that had been lying stowed away for about a month, and I only heard of its being there by chance.

The Custom Authorities here are very slack and pig-headed and slow as the snail. Went to Evening Service, after which went to Pope’s and had a long conversation about Spiritualism and I must say, his statement of facts, corroborated by his wife and sister, shook my disbelief very much.

Received invitation to Admiral Hancock’s to dinner Tuesday next.

2 March – Monday

Had a quiet day. I took the Mids. for a run aloft on the ripper and Topsail Yards. Heard by telegram of formation of Board of Admiralty and that Admiral Hornby was likely to go there, and that the Claimant had got 14 years penal service, being proved to be Arthur Orton. Wrote to the Blandys, enclosing my photographs.

4 March – Wednesday

Dined last night with Admiral Hancock, meeting Admiral Hornby and all the Captains and Comdrs of fleet except our Captain. A very pleasant dinner, our gambling Comdr and Bruce began outside in stern walk to play, and were surprised by Admiral Hancock who coolly bagged all the swag, and did not give it up for some short time.

Lunched in the Gun Room this afternoon, a very heavy lunch given by the Subs. to a lot of fellows from fleet, Carrow, Smith and myself. Heard by mail steamer that total casualties in five days fighting of troops was under 300 killed and wounded, principally the latter and that they were to leave Coomassie for Coast on February 6th, so I trust fever would not take many of them.

5 March – Thursday

Lunched with Captain today, meeting Sir Charles and Lady Murray, Capt. Dowell and Miss Peile. The latter was much struck with my cabin and wants to bring some ladies off tomorrow.

6 March – Friday

Lively came in today, bringing my figures and cigars. For the former I had to pay 5½ dollars each and rather expensive. Heard from my Uncle at Gib.

Miss Peile came off with six ladies, including the Countess Murca and her daughter, an heiress so I was informed by Miss Peile in a confidential tone. Miss Peile is 17 rather pretty and a daughter of Captain Peile RN, Simoom, who married a Portuguese. His daughter is quite a Portuguese in opinion, but very nice. She brought me off a photograph of the King and Queen of Portugal, as she did not admire the ones I had in my book, and made me give one of my Father, and told me her mother knew him very well indeed, and wants me to go and see them.

DEPART LISBON

7 March – Saturday

This morning unmoored and at 10.30 fleet weighed and proceeded out of harbour.

I had the afternoon watch and a most unfortunate accident occurred which I’d have given anything not to have happened, more especially in my Watch. At 1 o’c to 3 o’c, the patent log was put overboard starb’d side, we were going 6 knots through the water, and I was on port side of bridge just taking the angle of flag-ship, which I heard a shout of “Man overboard.” I shouted “Away Life Boat Crew. Let go life-buoy” and put indicator to stop Engines. I looked over side and saw Moore (Leading Seaman) swimming in to ship before gangway. I sang out “Hard a Port” and Deulphey [?], Quarter Master, threw circular life buoy close to him.

I was busy lowering boat, (for she was nearly being capsized) so I could not keep my eye on man, but, it appears, although close to three life buoys, he did not go to them, but caught hold of the log line, which must have dragged him under immediately and half–drowned him. For of course he could not have held on anyway, and the instrument was damaged, so he must have got mangled by the screw of log and obliged to let go, for he was seen afterwards and was then missed, his cap was picked up close to life-buoys.

Langdon and Langdale, Sub Lieuts, both jumped after him, but did not get near him. As, I was lowering boat it flashed across my mind to sing out “Cut the line if he gets hold of it” but, if I ever thought a man was safe, I thought Moore was; a good swimmer and three life-buoys close to him. I regret that some of those aloft who saw him get hold of line, did not rush out and cut it; but, even then, I doubt its being done in time. Poor fellow, he must have lost his head, and then thrown his life away. He could not have struck anything in falling, for he fell from Cathead. He leaves a Mother and sister, the former he has supported for the last 12 years.

Hercules lowered boat quickly.

He belonged to my quarters, and was a very good, steady man. His is the first, and I trust most sincerely that it may be the last death from drowning or by accident, that occurs in my watch. I always nourished the hope of being clear, but, I thank God that I did everything, I could do and can’t blame myself in the slightest. I could not have done anything more, but, still none the less it has made a deep impression on me and left a deep regret that I should have been so unfortunate.

This is now the fourth death by accidents that has happened in this ship since commissioning – an unfortunate ship.

11 March – Wednesday

This afternoon we sighted Ushant and at 5 pm Hercules and Sultan parted company for Portsmouth, remainder of fleet going on to Plymouth.

Monday last after firing we started for our 24 hrs Full speed trial, knocking 9 knots out of the old ship. The fleet gave us 2 hours start, but at 7 pm they all passed us going about 2.5 knots an hour faster. They were all doing about the same. Our speed soon fell to 8 knots on account of a North’ly wind which has been blowing ever since, in a more or less degree, accompanied with hail, and at times our speed fell to 7 knots.

We rejoined fleet last night, they being just visible (their topmasts) from the mast head. Last night I had first watch and it was not a very pleasant one, what with hail pelting one like bullets and blowing blacks into one’s eyes.

Thursday. In afternoon watch today was 39 degrees a good drop for us, who came from balmy and sunny Lisbon, ther. 30 degrees higher, we feel it rather.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH

14 March – Saturday

Thursday last, at about 8 am we sighted the Eddystone Lt House. and soon made out the hills clearly round Plymouth, wreathed in snowy white. We sped on, four ships in number, the Sultan and Hercules having left us the preceding evening for Portsmouth and at 12 (noon) we cast anchor in the Sound; found steam pinnace laying out there, Daddy having sent papers etc, to all the ships.

Heard of all being well from Couch and of Edward having had fever and been wounded.

After mooring, which took us about 2½ hours, I made tracks for the shore in steam pinnace, and on fetching the house I found family in, both my Parents looking very well as also Meta and the others. Slept at home that night and did not go off until the next day, at noon, although Captain had given me leave for several days, but, being one Lieut short, it would have been rather hard on the other fellows.

That evening the tugs came out and took us up harbour, taking us to a buoy off Lower Dock Yd. This forenoon, we hauled alongside Jetty, where Rattlesnake had been. Comdr Digby came on board and paid a visit, smoked a cigar with him. Last night Capt. G. came up and spent the evening with us, and later on in the evening, I got them all down into my room and smoked a cigar, Capt. G. joining me. Heard from Rob today, who sent me home by no means bad verses, composed by himself.

18 days leave to each watch. Hurrah! take mine from 3rd April second lot.

Troops expected in England daily, Edward’s courage spoken of by all his regiment.

15 March – Sunday

Spent on board, but the Comdr remaining on board in the evening enabled me to go to evening service, and hear Mr Beal preach a capital sermon. Regret to say my dear Mother has been far from well. Heard of Captain Sullivan and our man exchanging, and am confoundedly sorry.

17 March – Tuesday

Went into Plymouth taking the family with me and leaving them at the Royal Hotel to take their dancing lessons, and went off myself to Club, meeting Sir H.K. there and at 3.30 I went to Hotel again and walked up into the Ball Room and found some 120 people of all ages ranged round sitting down, having just finished a dance. Of course I was the observed of everyone. I made for Madame Bradley and asked to be allowed to stay, but, was refused leave and so had to depart like a dog with tail between my legs, amidst a suppressed titter.

A large dinner party at our house, in honour of Heneage’s bride, Sir Harry and Lady Keppel, Major and Mrs Maitland, Mr and Mrs Shoreton, Captains Herbert and Graham, Miss Kirk, Capt. and Mrs Heneage and some four of us, 16 in all. Mrs H seems a very nice person, something similar to Heneage.

19 March – Thursday

Raining all day, spent it at home. Hardy McHardy lunched with us, and Capt. and Mrs G. and Comdr Oxley and Digby dined in evening.

Have taken after W.R. in hand and have got the combings all removed etc.

Fault kindly told me of his holding an IOU of Russ’s, so I suppose I must pay it up.

21 March – Saturday

Tamar came in from Portsmouth, having landed the 23rd, who received a grand ovation from the Portsmouthians. Capt. Grabbe paid us a visit and gave all the news he could about Ned, and Commodore Commerell, also came in and had 5 o’c. tea. Walked out to Mannamead with my Father. Commodore Hewett wants me to go out to Active, but unless he hoists his broad pennant as 1st class Commodore and takes me as Flag-lieut I should not go, for, I’ve Lord Gilford and Charley Fellowes under my lee.

My dear Mother has not been well for this week, I regret to say.

23 March – Monday

Walked out to N.H. and saw Smith who comes out tomorrow, had a smoke with him and then paid Mrs Minter a visit. Heard by telegram of the Sarmatian’s arrival, and Grogan sent a telegram round that all was well etc. etc.

Russie wrote very good news about Grandfather saying, he was requested to return to Nova-Scotia by the people at Halifax, and told many other things. Wrote many letters and heard of Annie being again enceinte. At this rate, she won’t be able to complain of a small family. Francie floured my pillow and bed most shamefully.

25 March – Wednesday

Nothing much to note. Edward threw Meta into a state of fever and all of us into a state of doubt, by wording his letter in a very ambiguous manner, leaving us all in a state of expectation of seeing him burst on our sight.

Had a large 5 o’c party yesterday afternoon, about 18 people congregating together. Miss Kirk remaining to spend the evening, both my Parents dining out. Misses Hares paid my ship a visit.

27 March – Friday

Dined last night at the Kirks, meeting Mr and Mrs Bayes there, found it rather dull, and slow. Raining all day, went out with my Father and Capt. Herbert to pay a visit to the Corvette Augusta. Went all over her, she is a lean gutted thing and would not stand much knocking about; steams very fast. 14 knots all the way from Cowes, she is of French build.

28 March – Saturday

Oxley gave a lunch to Mrs Johnson and the two Miss xxx, rather pretty girls. Carrow and I lunched and Mrs J. wants me to call, which I shall do. Received a very nice letter from Annie, who has asked me to come up and pay a visit to Liverpool, but I’m afraid that the state of my funds won’t allow me to do so.

31 March – Tuesday

Last Sunday at morning service we had quite a little scene, for in the middle of the sermon, a yell was heard and it proved to be the organist taken in an epileptic fit, who had to be carried out.

Young Wyatt Rawson dined with me last Saturday and told me all about the Ashantee Expedition. The slug is still in his leg and his ankle is weak, he has an acting vacancy in the Himalaya and I hope it will be confirmed, for he is a very nice young fellow.

3 April – Good Friday

Sat up until late last night, 1.30, waiting for Russell who did not turn up, but this morning he surprised me, by walking into my room. He has grown quite a young man, and is greatly altered, but, I think he is settling down, at least, I hope and pray he is, but, he has given my dear Father (not) much peace of mind, for we were all getting uncommonly anxious about the lad, as Forbes was going about with him.

I’m stuck on board, but Russie lunches with me at 1 o’c.

7 April – Tuesday

Sunday morning Edward showed up, just arrived from Portsmouth, looking fairly well considering everything, of course Meta was most delighted at seeing him and is most happy now. I think they will be married October next, at least, I hope so. Father, Russie and I walked out to the Naval Hospital together and Francie with us.

Yesterday, Russie and I left the house at 8 am. with our bicycles and crossed over to Torpoint but we had hardly got 2 miles out, than mine broke down, so Russ and I went into the village and hired a small market trap and pony and drove out Liskeard way, 10 miles. Having a feed of Devonshire Cream and milk, we got home again at 3 pm giving 1/– an hour for the trap. Saw Russie off for town by the 7.40 train.

8 April – Wednesday

Went down to Keyham with my Father, Admiral Goldsmith accompanying us. Went all over the London fitting out for Zanzibar. Took my first dancing lesson in the hornpipe this morning, from one of the Tortoise’s men. Wrote to Russie who has neither sent my Mother’s or my money down, but I hope it may come all right tomorrow. Had tea with Mrs Chambers.

My Lords sail tonight for this place, and are going to make another visit in August next, this only being a flying one. Prince of W. coming in June to stay a few days with Admiral Sir H Keppel.

Mr Bates, MP for Plymouth paid my Father a long visit in his office this forenoon, bringing a long list in his hand of fellows who had run to him with their grievances. Most of them, however, Mr Moore and my Father soon proved to be false and Sir Wm King-Hall gave Mr Bates some very good advice and a small piece of his mind, and Mr B. who came in quite the Conservative MP and rather inclined to be bumptious, had the good sense to go out rather more sensibly.

It is quite clear, to me, that these fellows, have bound themselves by promises to many things, they will never be able to perform and that many of our noble electors will not be pleased.

9 April – Thursday

Heard from Russ this morning. He did not send the cheque as he had promised to my Mother. I’m afraid that everything is not altogether as it should be, more especially from what I heard from Adm. H. I received a telegram from him this evening, however I shall go up on Saturday to town to see how things stand.

The Enchantress yacht came in this afternoon, but Admiralty did not do anything in Dock Yard. Spoke to Admiral Stewart. Mr McHardy, Inspector of Stores to Navy, staying with us, dined this evening at House, and we smoked together afterwards in Edward’s room.

AFTER VISIT TO LONDON

18 April – Saturday

Have allowed my journal to drop somewhat behind since being in town, partly through my time being so occupied and partly through my anxiety about Russ.

On Friday April 10th not having heard from Russ, although he had promised to send the money on Tuesday etc, I started off suddenly by the 9.40 train and got up to town at 6.0, meeting Russie at the station, who explained to me that he had the money in the Bank and had just telegraphed the amount down.

Well that evening I made him sit down and tell me all his debts and found they amounted to about £100 and odd, including two pre dated cheques, one falling due April 20th and the other May 1st. The former for £30, the latter for £25 and he owed money to Admiral Stewart £12 and had just sent £5 to Mrs Stepney.

I got him to tell me about himself and found he had been going the way, that hundreds of other foolish young fellows go, following women and making presents and taking hansoms etc, and thinking he was cutting a fine figure in town. I asked him about Forbes, and he told me he had only met him incidentally two or three times.

We paid our G.Parents a visit that evening.

11 April – Saturday. I found myself with a bad cold in the groin and so having managed to toddle out to G.Mother F., I laid on the sofa the whole day, Russie coming out and spending it with us.

12 April – Sunday. Feeling much better I got up and went to St James, hearing Mr Palmer preach, can’t say I was enamoured with him. Russ coming out, we dined with our G.Parents and in the afternoon walking in, called upon the Codringtons and found them very agreeable, had 5 o’c tea with them and afterwards went to Mr Fleming’s Church, close to, and managed to get places. His curate preached a most eloquent sermon; probably one of Mr Fleming’s.

13 April – Monday. Feeling slightly unwell, I went to the Cavendish Club and remained in all day, meeting at Russ’s lodgings and got my gear taking it to Mrs Stepney’s, at whose house I was going to remain for a few days. Russ and I dined there.

14 April – Tuesday. I got up at 4 am and walked into Paddington Station to meet Edward, of course just missing him by five minutes, so I came back and slept until 10.30.

Went in and found Russ had not been into the Bank, on account of diarrhoea. That evening he feeling better we went to Covent Garden in the 5/– places and heard Il Barbiere di Siviglia, Marimon singing and Cotogni, she struck a very high note in the song she sang at her music lesson. Figaro wanted life. A very large house and I should say, next to San Carlos at Naples.

Met Williams of Hercules.

On Wednesday made a round of visits, Bothamleys, Lily Gilbard, who is staying with the Patons, G.ma; and ran down to Greenwich, and saw Adm. and Lady Key, who mistook me for a married man, Bowden-Smith, Usborne and Lindsay.

Came back to town and had an interview with Forbes, who told me a lot of lies, that at the time I did not know. Found Russ had not been to the Bank – dined at Mrs Stepney’s.

On Thursday I went into the Bank to see Russ and found to my surprise that he was still absent. I rushed back to the Club and found him there. He said Mr Davidson had excused him but, I couldn’t help thinking something was wrong.

Father brought Meta up to town, to stay with Mrs Stepney’s, so I had to clear out and take a room at 89 Jermyn Street, Russ’s lodgings.

Russ and I chased Father and got him at the Admiralty. After some little time and business had been done, we all three dined at the Cavendish Club, Father standing and we had a very good dinner indeed. Calling at Mrs S. and spending half-an-hour, wound up the evening.

Yesterday we breakfasted together here and had a very good one 5/– for three. Russ went off to his bank. Father and I did some business and going to the Admiralty, where I made the acquaintance of my future chief (D.V.) Lord Gilford.

We then went to Russ’s Bank and Father seeing Russ told him he wanted to make Mr D.’s acquaintance. Russ stayed away some time, but the end of it was there was a terrible row and Father did not see Mr D.

Russ not having got on well at Bank – Mr D. – told him, he would have to tell Father, so Father is going to wait a month. It must be heart-breaking work to his Parents – and I pray most devoutly that he may not go wrong and cause them shame – he is so very easy led – is kind and warm-hearted, very thoughtless and very untruthful. I never saw my beloved Father so cut up – and it is very very sad to think that my two loving, hard-working Parents should be worried and have so much anxiety – especially in the autumn of their age.

From the Bank Father and I went to Mr Tapling, a very rich merchant (carpet) about Miss Fox – marrying. He spoke very sensibly about it and very kind and very true, as both of us thought. He told us his history, a most remarkable one of his rising from nothing, until how he sells £600,000 of goods yearly. Not costing his Father a penny after the age of 16 and beginning with a porter and clerk – and attributes his success in life to his having been a teetotaller for three years in the beginning of his life, and thereby getting a command over himself.

He spoke at a meeting and a Mrs Stow took notice of him – he waited until 36 and then married getting a very good wife, of whom I saw and who produced a very nice boy and girl to whom I had the honour of being introduced.

He told us he had over 300 in his establishment – and he always gave milk from his own cows to anyone that would have it instead of beer. That he fed everyone in the building and they always could take the jug of milk instead of beer and told us some other most interesting accounts of his career.

He said – I make it a rule of my life – never to tell an untruth and never to stoop beneath me, to mix with people above me – for, he said “Anyone can stoop down and pick up nothing” – and he gave us an account of how he was tried once. In the ‘66 crash he took Bills etc to Gurney – and the latter said “Are they safe?” He said, “I answered, though with a sinking of heart – for my everything depended on them – I can’t say.” Since that time – G and he have been close friends.

He gave us all luncheon and made us promise to come down to his place at Dulwich – and Russ coming in – he asked him to dinner Sunday week. He gave us all the above in a very manly, modest way – he is surely one of our Princes that keep up the honour of the Country and uphold its greatness.

Russ and I saw Father off at 5 o’c for Plymouth and then Russ confided to me that he had been going about with Forbes very much and that Forbes had led him into everything, so, I’ve appointed an interview with him for today. Went to Davies with Russ – who is going to hold the cheques over until May 1st. I feel very anxious about Russ.

22 April – Wednesday

Continue my journal on about Russ, Forbes and myself. Well on Saturday the 18th as Russ and I were dining together at the Cavendish Club – Mr Forbes sent his name in, I went out and immediately accused him of sharping my brother at billiards and told him what a thundering liar and scoundrel he was.

He owned to having told me a lie – and so I gave it to him hot for ten minutes, just informing him, that his conduct had been watched and he was forbidden the Club by the Proprietor, in the name of the Committee and that he knowing Russ was easily led, took advantage of it to lead him into every vice and lived on him – and that, I would stop his acquaintance at any cost whatever, and having made Russie face him, I told him to leave the Club. As it was in a public place, I don’t think he much liked it.

On Sunday 19th Russ and I made tracks for Chester Square to hear Mr Fleming. We got into the door and found a tremendous squash and found ourselves pushing against Meta and Ned, eventually we all got places. Russ and I sitting in the Reading Desk, after the prayers were finished. We lunched at Mrs Stepney’s and then Meta and I walked across the Park and paying Lily and the Patons a visit fetched out to our G.Parents. Russ joining us from Admiral Stewart’s.

We had high tea there and then we all three steered for Mr Fleming’s again, and again had very much trouble in getting places. Mr Fleming both forenoon and afternoon preached most eloquently on Dr Livingstone’s death.

Then dropping Meta at Mrs S. – Russ and I went to our lodgings – and at 11 pm were troubled by Mr Forbes again. He began making excuses – I cut him short and showed him the door.

On Monday. I started by 11.45 and travelling down with Denison, whom I met at station with Ld. F. Cecil. I got down at 6 pm and found both my beloved Parents very anxious and looking worn about Russ. We had a long talk about him – and I prepared them in a way for his debts it must be most heart breaking and it tells on them, I’m sure – for, I can see it. I cheered them up a bit, by telling them of Russie’s complete break from Forbes.

Tuesday, yesterday. I went about with Father to Keyham and otherwise we had a small dinner party Monday night – Capts. Graham, Grant, Palliser and Douglas with their wives.

This forenoon I went with my Father and paid L’Amérique a visit, a large French steamer 450 feet long, and abandoned at sea in a gale, because she had some 9 or 10 feet of water in her through a valve being left open below.

Found the salvors fighting aboard of her – went over and found everything in a most pitiable state – trunks broke open, ladies gear lying about and cards etc. canaries etc, dinner on table half eaten – and everything denoting what a hurry she was left in. No water had ever got near the saloon (a very fine one) and it appears most ridiculous after her Captain, describing the way in which he lost sight of her – her coming into Plymouth Sound all right – she never could have had much water in her.

Alongside of her was a small English steamer which had suffered most severely in same storm. One wave which had broken over her, had swept the deck house clean away, the unfortunate 2nd mate inside and two men went overboard, but were washed back again by the reflux of the wave. The life boat was washed completely away and most extraordinary to relate, left her stem stern post hanging at the davits – and also washed away the wheel, leaving the spokes in the hand of helmsmen. She had a narrow escape, for her lee fires were put out – but, her Captain a fine English seaman said, “He only wished he had fallen in with the French derelict and he would have done his best to bring her in.” My private opinion is – “The French were never made for sailors, they want a little English breeding first.”

This afternoon I accompanied my Mother first to Mrs Kirk’s and then to the Miss Ordes (50 and 60) to 5 o’c tea – and now, having just finished, my cigar, I’m going to step into a hot bath and from there to my Bed.