HMS EURYALUS

[Iron screw corvette]

1884

ON PASSAGE TO INDIAN OCEAN

8 August - Friday

RMS Taymouth Castle (close to the Island of Madagascar). From the Cape to the Island of Mauritius.

I shall leap back to England and see myself on board the Lord Warden, lying at Spithead having undergone a thorough refit in the dockyard, preparatory to starting the summer cruise.

A lovely day, about 3 of the clock in the afternoon, whilst smoking a cigar with Captain Kennedy and chatting with his wife, the signalman came down and reported that a signal had been made from Admiral’s Office, that a telegram awaited me and to send for it at once.

I made back “Semaphore it out”, which being done I found myself offered the 1st and Gun of the Euryalus, flagship of Sir Wm Hewett on the East Indian Station.

I accepted at once. A very short time found me at home, on leave, waiting for the departure of the RMS Norham Castle by which steamer I had been ordered a passage out in, to Mauritius, where I should find my ship.

I spent three weeks very jollily at home, (at least as far as could be expected). I hired a pony for the girls to drive and they much enjoyed it, paying visits to our neighbours, the Curzons at Lockington, who I like best of all the people around.

Lady Byron was the cause of a regular breeze chez nous, through mentioning about my driving in a chopping way; for I had made the pony trot very quickly round the grounds for her to see, as Lady B would not believe it could do 1 mile in 5 minutes.

However, I do not expect to be at home much. If it was not for my dear old father, I’d go but rarely. I made the time go as pleasantly as I could for the dear girls, and when jealousy did not stop me, took my father out for a walk.

At last the day came for saying good-bye and off I went. My father and I very loth to part from each other. Spending a night with Francie at Queen’s Gate.

I went down on July 9th (Wednesday) with my traps to the West Indian Docks and secured my cabin on board of the Norham Castle. We sailed at 1 pm and reached Dartmouth on the 10th.

Richards, DAQG (what a farce these titles are) and I went on board the Britannia, had tea there and went up to the Recreation Ground. Certainly the cadets have a splendid athletic training, what with bathing, cricket, fencing, sailing, rowing, etc, etc. On the 11th, had breakfast with my old shipmate Wodehouse, one of the Lieutenants on board the Britannia. Had a yarn with Bowden-Smith her Captain and also his wife, very nice, though not much to look at.

Having received all mails and passengers by noon, we made a start for Lisbon, where we arrived on the 14th, but being quarantined, we anchored off Belem Castle, and no one went ashore. These Portuguese are most egregious blockheads. About 50 1st class passengers, including half a dozen Portuguese from Lisbon.

Let me make a survey of them, ere lost to view. Captain Robinson of the steamer, a very nice fellow and a good specimen of the gentlemanly mail steamer Captain, plays the flute and sings a little, and altogether fills his part very well. The other officers are also very good fellows, the Purser, O’Flaherty very obliging, and always ready to make an ass of himself if it would amuse anyone, slightly vulgar.

Consul and wife (Le Comte and Comtesse de Turenne) with some half dozen others, were really the only passengers that (amongst the other 50 odd going to the Cape, Diamond fields etc) we could call of the first water. Le Comte, who by the way is a cousin of the Vicomte (my old acquaintance, who from £400 a year, has come to digging for diamonds at Kimberley), is going out as French Consul to the Cape.

He is a very well informed man, having been 20 years in diplomatic service though only 37 years of age. He has been sent out to the Cape, as far as I can see, as a kind of honourable punishment for his having been a little independent in refusing other appointments, but he only expects to be out about 18 months, or two years. He has the misfortune to have a club foot. I should say he was a man who could ill brook any fault being found with him in any way.

The Comtesse, a daughter of Lord Kingsale’s (De Courcy) has seen life in some of its unhappy phases. Her first husband was an Italian, who drank and gambled, and actually kept his wife’s maid as a mistress under the same roof as his wife was under. The Comtesse led this kind of life for ten or eleven years until the husband died. A happy release for her, as she expresses it. A boy and girl are the issue of this marriage, the former rather a vaurien, the latter yet at school.

About two or three years ago she married her present husband. I should say few women know the world better than the Comtesse, and she is a keen observer of everything going on around her. She is one of the most thoroughbred looking women I’ve ever seen, but you can see that the memory of her former misery still weighs on her mind. I like both her and her husband and have promised some day to go and pay them a visit at their villa, near Florence - Le Comte de Turenne - Villa Veopa - Scandicci - Firenze.

Mr and Mrs Kyshe and Henrie, fellow passengers to Mauritius, are very pleasant people. They are just returning from a two years’ holiday to England and the continent, and as they had never been out of Mauritius before, they thoroughly enjoyed themselves and did everything from The City Monument in London, to going down the Rhine. Of course they had never seen snow before.

Mrs Kyshe at Flushing was very much struck on getting up one morning, with the beauty of the trees etc., the leaves being covered with hoar frost so she went out of the Hotel and plucked one and stowed it carefully away.

Some hours afterwards she went to the drawer, only seeing a leaf there concluded some one had taken away the beautiful thing she had plucked. Servants were called - hunted for this missing article. Mrs Kyshe being a Frenchwoman could not make herself understood very well, so the search continued until Mr Kyshe (English) coming in, the matter was told him and he explained to Mrs K that the frost had melted off the leaf, and the one in the drawer was the same she had taken off the tree in the morning. She is very ingenuous and very pleasant.

Amongst the other passengers were Colonel Hime, R.E. to Natal, Richards, DAQG. White going out to Euryalus with me, he is a torpedo man. Andrew, a Barrister at Lincoln, and a good many others having something to do with the diamonds, or the diamond fields. Miss Bell going out with her brother. Miss Ashley to be married to a Dr Ford, a Mrs Baillie to be married also.

From Lisbon we had a very pleasant passage through the N.E. Trade, dancing and music going on every evening. One night a regular ball took place in the Saloon, two of the passengers representing the host and hostess. Guests were announced by a servant in knee breeches, powdered wig etc. a regular supper was provided - ices being handed round.

There was less of the usual scandal talked than is generally the case on board a mail steamer. Colonel McClintock is brother of the Admiral - drinking hard. I spoke to him, but though he cried and said he knew he was killing himself, he went on just the same. His wife, and a harum-scarum - daughter must feel it.

I should think we sighted Cape de Verde, and passing through the Doldrums, met the SW Monsoon blowing pretty fresh, into the Gulf of Guinea it ultimately veered round to the SE Trade. The ship vibrated a good deal, and also did a certain amount of pitching. We arrived at the Cape early on Friday morning the 1st and soon went into the docks.

Everyone up to see Miss Ashley’s young man standing on the jetty. He certainly did not look very prepossessing, as Miss A. evidently thought. I was told she went into tears etc. It certainly is curious, two brides coming out to be married, Mrs Baillie saying she was only marrying for a home. Miss A. saying she liked the Purser of the ship better than the bridegroom elect. She evidently meant it for O’F. had many a kiss from the young lady! To cap it all, the night before getting in, the Portuguese Lt. Governor was seen kissing Miss McClintock, which caused much excitement amongst the ladies. I think it was time we got into harbour - for kissing was getting slightly promiscuous.

But I enjoyed my trip to the Cape for I did not find time hang at all heavy, working at French every forenoon, cricket, athletic sports etc., the rest of the day. The cooking was atrocious, though any amount of food.

White and I went ashore at the Cape and lunched at Government House with Sir Hercules and Lady Robinson. Bower my old shipmate introducing me, he is Permanent Secretary. Miss R. is a nice looking girl. Dawkins the ADC, to whom Curzon had given me an introduction being up at the Diamond Fields. Newton and Floyd of Boadicea made up the party. Had tea with Mrs Berner (Miss Mitchell of Sydney) and then went on to the International Hotel and said goodbye to the Comtesse.

Left Cape Town that evening in the Taymouth Castle.

Cape Town is very slack, as concerning business. The streets are not paved and very dirty and badly kept, a disgrace to the colony. Fair shops, and not a place I should care to live in. I believe the suburbs towards Wynberg are charming.

Sunday saw us in Algoa Bay, where we remained a few hours discharging mails etc. for Port Elizabeth.

On passing the Bird Rocks, thought of my father in the Styx. Monday at East London and Tuesday at Durban, where I landed for a few hours. From Durban to Mauritius we had very fine weather, head winds generally. Our speed averaged 10 knots. Monday 11th of August, we steamed past the Island of Réunion (Bourbon) and through the shipping lying off St Denis.

The Island is very mountainous, being volcanic, and the slopes of the mountains are covered with sugar plantations. It was very pleasing to the eye with the different tints of the trees, canes, rocks etc. and now and then great deep dark ravines, as if the mountains had been cleft asunder by some great internal rupture. St Denis looked pretty from the sea as we passed ½ mile wide of it. The town had numerous palm trees growing in and about it, relieving the yellow and white of the houses.

AT ZANZIBAR

1 September - Monday

Zanzibar. Joining the ship at Mauritius on the 13th of August, I soon settled down and found myself very comfortable, a good Mess and good messmates. Everyone was very gay at Mauritius, nothing but balls, picnics and dinners going on. This ship gave a large ball ashore at the Town House of the Governor and it went off very well. I hear it cost about £240.

I made the acquaintance of the Boyces and the Wilsons at Mauritius. Boyce, Francie’s old lover, has two children now. Mrs Boyce, who was Miss Plumbridge, is a very nice person. Boyce, who served under Gordon at Mauritius, told me some interesting stories about him showing what determination he has got, and also what a generous man he is. Mrs Wilson, a sister of Mrs Ryder’s, is very like her. I dined and slept there meeting Mr Foot’s brother -in-law there.

There was great friction between the Governor, Pope-Hennessy and the Admiral, the former making himself very objectionable and rude not only to the Admiral, but more or less to every one who was English, or has Imperial sympathies; for Pope-Hennessy is a rank Home Ruler. Although he is a most bigoted R.C., yet he has offended the R.C. Clergy. The R.C. Bishop told me he was ashamed such a man should represent the Queen.

The Gardens at Pamplemousses are worth a visit. I did not ascend Peter Both.

We left Mauritius after the ship had made a seven weeks’ stay, very enjoyable to everyone; and steaming 10 knots, with a fair trade after us, we soon anchored off Zanzibar, getting here on a Sunday. A great deal of work going on, salutes etc., etc. It seems to me that the Sunday is not much regarded on board here, sometimes only a couple of prayers being read.

The Admiral is a most extraordinary man, and gets very ‘full’ sometimes after dinner - and when he does, then comes the excitement. Night Qts. or Man-or-Arm Boats, Sunday nights etc. I’m afraid that the Admiral is one, however much one may admire this dashing courage etc, you cannot however respect.

Yesterday I went ashore and attended Service in the English Church. Choir consisted of boys - freed slaves

4 September - Thursday

Paid a visit to Mathews, late RN, now Brigadier General of Sultan’s Army, 1600 men, in fact he made it and has great power and influence with Sultan, for the Army will do anything for him. He has done a good deal of fighting on the mainland against the native tribes.

Mathews was very glad to see me. He told me he had lost as many as 300 men in one action, principally through poisoned crow’s feet [?]. He said the Sultan was a thorough Oriental in some things, but very enlightened and hard working. He is quite an autocrat.

We had an instance of his being so last Sunday. We gave Mathews a salute of 11 guns, which the Glasgow, one of his men-of-war, returned. But instead of hoisting the English Ensign at the Fore, she hoisted the Zanzibar (a Red Flag). The Sultan, who was out at his country Palace, saw it, telephoned into Mathews and told him to box his ears and put him in irons, which he did.

Mathews got us a carriage and pair out of the Sultan’s stables, and we went for a drive out to the Central African Mission, 5 miles out, and were received most kindly by the Ladies and Parson. The Shamba is about 160 acres. We were told a good deal about the slave trade. The horrors and atrocities committed on the march down are not a bit exaggerated.

The Sultan is very civil to the Mission outwardly, but his influence is strongly against Christianity. Woe be to any native or subject of his becoming a convert. He disappears.

The pupils, young freed slaves, are very quick at learning to a certain point, but there they seem to stick. Immorality is what has to be guarded against, most of all on the Shamba.

5 September - Friday

The Admiral, Captain, and two Officers from every ship paid a visit of ceremony to the Sultan. We landed at Sir J. Kirk’s house and marched for about 400 yards through his irregular Troops and a crowd of people. The Troops were armed with long guns and swords and daggers.

In front of the Palace Mathews’ Troops were drawn up, looking very smart and gave a very good salute. The Band played God Save the Queen. The steps of the Palace were manned by guards and Arab Sheiks, and the stairs also. At the top the Admiral introduced us to His Highness and then we all went and sat down. Englishmen on the left in one long row and Arab Sheiks on the right, about 30. Coffee went round in dainty gold cups, then iced sherbet, which you just tasted, and finally Attar of Roses, a most powerful essence, which the Chamberlain saturated your handkerchief with. My cocked hat slipped down as I was making my bow, and His Highness helped to pick it up for me. His Highness has a bright intelligent eye, mouth not firmly set, but I should say a determined, obstinate man, that carried out his ideas as far as he could with firmness. Averse to bloodshed, but still does not scruple to let people die in prison who are opposed to him. Enlightened, a strict mussulman and rather inclined to be taken in by adventurers, whom he employs at different times in the carrying out of his schemes.

He has unshipped the English Captains in his men-of-war, as he finds they are such a drinking lot and he won’t have Englishmen there.

13 September - Saturday

The Sultan gave a dinner to some 40 officers of the Fleet last night. Headed by the Admiral and Sir John Kirk, we marched from the latter’s house and, heralded by music and guards presenting arms, we entered the Harem, adjoining the Palace. We were received by the Sultan in a very nice room, evidently his bedroom as it had a couple of beds - one in each corner.

The dinner was laid out in a verandah very prettily decorated and the table looked very well, with the fruits etc. laid out. Each guest had three decanters of different stuff by him, one containing sherbet. It was a very good dinner, the cooking excellent. Two Bands playing alternately, one playing European airs, the other Arabian airs and songs.

I sat next General Mathews, who sat on the Admiral’s right. The Admiral did not like having to drink non-alcoholic drinks, and made several sarcastic remarks thereon. The Portuguese steward of the household seeing the Admiral’s annoyance, whispered in his ear, “I have something ‘fissy’ for you, Sir.” This pleased the Admiral who thought it was champagne - his favourite drink. The steward re-appeared and poured out some ginger ale which infuriated the Admiral, and looking across at me said, “I suppose this will please you, Sir.” I kept a stony silence.

After dinner we went back to the Palace by a covered way, and sitting down in the balcony facing the square, which was full of people, witnessed a series of fireworks. The great excitement being to see squibs let loose in the crowd and everyone running away and into each other. After coffee and Attar of Roses had gone round, we bade good-night about 11 pm to the Sultan.

14 September - Sunday

Spent Sunday out at Mathews’ Shamba. He told me all about his taking service under the Sultan and told me some interesting yarns of his different expeditions on the mainland. The Sultan is a regular Eastern despot, but is certainly more enlightened than most Eastern monarchs.

Mathews has an Army of 1,600 men under him, of whom about 1,000 are very good. The private gets 4 rupees a month and enlists for life. His officers are mostly recruited from the ranks. He gave me a lot of mats and very quaint Arabian Tea Pot.

AT ADEN

28 September - Sunday.

Aden. Thermometer steady at 88°. Started off at 6 am this morning to get stores, rifles, tents etc., as we expected to start for Massawah at noon. Captain Speedy having sent down word to say that he expected an attack from the Hadendowas.

The Admiralty gave Sir Wm. Hewett permission to go, but Lord John Hay, to whom the Admiral had telegraphed, wired back, “Many thanks, assistance not yet required”, so of course we could not go. But all the same we had a lively Sunday, coaling at 6 o’clock, washing down and then provisioning. The latter might have been done on Monday, after our sailing was stopped, but there is no regard shown for the Sunday in this ship.

5 October - Sunday

Aden. On Wednesday night we weighed after the Admiral’s guests had left, and steamed away at a rate of 10 knots. Made sail with the hands, everything ‘flat aback’, (a most lubberly thing) and left the Middle Watch to take it all in.

We anchored at Berbera on Thursday and found everything very quiet. Major Hunter being there, came back yesterday. Had Divine Service today, the first time for some weeks.

7 October - Tuesday

Aden. Been laying in the Inner Harbour since our return and it has been very handy getting on shore in consequence, though I find so much to do, that I rarely leave the ship. It is most pleasant sleeping at night time.

During the last week I had a day at a Court Martial on a case of indecent assault on board the Ranger. Man convicted and received two years. I was employed three days on board the same ship on a Court of Enquiry, on some alleged cases of indecent assault, but Stopford and I found that though there was every reason to suppose a good deal had gone on, yet we could not get sufficient evidence. I daresay the CM and C of E together will stop this disgusting indecency.

Hastings, the Captain, did a foolish thing yesterday, very detrimental to discipline. I had reported the Forecastle Gun Crew for letting their Gun gear get dirty, and Commander ordered them to fall in at 1.15 pm, after the service dinner hour, and then to go and clean it. It was done and men were forward, when the Captain had them piped to fall in, without reference to Commander and dismissed them, then told the Commander.

The Commander was a good deal put out and at 2 o’clock wired into one of the men for being dirty, and told him to bring his bag up, which the man did and shied it on the deck at Commander’s feet, saying “Any b-----r can open it, I won’t”, or words to that effect.

I find this a very unsatisfactory ship to serve in, for the Captain is very ignorant and lacks knowledge, though I like him personally. However, I’m trying to get along without a row, which would be fatal to my prospect of promotion.

31 October - Friday

Last night we gave the 4th Bombay Rifles a dinner, and invited Admiral and his staff, also General Blair, who was too unwell to come, Colonel McCausland RA and Major Hunter, the Resident, whom I looked after.

We sat down 4 and 20, dining on the upper deck. The table looked very well and the dinner was well cooked and served. The band played well.

After dinner three whist tables were set out and the remaining 8 of us sat round, and heard McCausland sit on Bremner, who began in a stupid way, arguing against Teetotalism; McCausland being one. He certainly had the best of the argument. The Admiral was full of champagne and most warlike, as he said, “Give me a glass of Champagne, an Indian Division and land me at Massawah, and I’ll relieve Gordon and wipe Wolseley’s eye.”

Admiral Hewett is a man with no resources in himself, such as reading etc., but a man that is miserable and fretful unless in motion and doing something active. I should say a man that does not bear malice, though very prone to have a row if thwarted and ready to do, or say, anything when in anger.

DEPART ADEN

7 November - Friday

370 miles off Bombay, NE Monsoon strong. Yesterday and today inspected by the Admiral, who sent for Commander and myself and said he was very well pleased and that there was a marked improvement since his last inspection, and complimented me on the way the drills went off. He does not give such a strict inspection as Hoskins, but he has a good look into everything.

ARRIVE BOMBAY

10 November - Monday

Bombay. Yesterday morning at 5 o’clock we commenced bending sails with the Watch and Idlers, crossing Yards and then squaring them etc., which kept us going until 7.30 am at which time we picked up our Buoy, and then spread Awnings, turn out Boats, wash decks, spun out the time until 11.30 am. Short prayers and dinner at 12 o’clock finished up the Naval Sunday.

Landed in the afternoon and went all over the Sailors’ Home, the finest building in Bombay. Gothic architecture, they average 60 beds a night, and everything is very comfortable. Several of the men I saw in the corridors were the worse for liquor and I think it is a pity spirits are sold at the Bar.

Crossed the road and paid a visit to the YMCA, a small neat building. I went to the evening Service at St Thomas’s Cathedral and liked the Service, excepting the Anthem, very much. The Anthem seemed as if it was intended to show off one voice only. The Bishop preached, the second time I have heard him, and on both occasions I’ve been struck by the want of connection between the different parts of his sermon, and in fact there is nothing in them, no life, but a kind of laboured putting together of words. Dined at he Yacht Club, not a bad dinner.

19 November - Wednesday

Went out yesterday with Cook, our Commander, to visit the Towers of Silence, the burial place of the Parsees, on Malabar Hill.

Having driven along the Marine Lines we drew up at a gate standing at the top of an incline off the main road. We were shown in and round the place by a respectable Parsee.

The burial ground is enclosed by a high wall which, as it stands, is the highest part of Malabar Hill and effectually prevents anyone from seeing inside. You find yourself, after entering the Gate, in a garden very prettily laid out, with buildings scattered about in which are held the burial services, and also where the sacred fire burns, which is never allowed to go out, and no stranger allowed to see.

Walking to the end of the garden you find yourself standing on a raised kind of rampart and before your eyes, standing in uncultivated ground, surrounded by trees, are the far famed Towers of Silence. These Towers are about 25 to 30 feet high and are of very strong masonry; 300 feet in diameter. The body is brought into the Tower through a door and placed naked in a receptacle, and in an hour’s time the bones are picked clean by the numerous vultures that we saw sitting, gorged on the top of the Tower. Some, in fact, so gorged that they had to lie down. Rich and poor are all served the same way, no distinction is made.

[See diagram after p. 28 of Journal No 11 (Oct 1883 -July 1885)]

Building is 300 feet wide. C place for men. D for women. E for children. After a fortnight the bones are raked into A -150 feet wide. When the SW Monsoon comes on with the rain, the bones are turned into lime and phosphorus, and run down channel F into a well which is filed with sand and charcoal, thus purifying everything before it runs into the earth.

30 November - Sunday

Had a row with Easther, the Naval Instructor and Paris, Flag Lieutenant, who had been drinking a good deal of whisky in company with Bremner, Paymaster. The two former got ‘full’ as usual and began making a drunken row in W.R., hardly able to speak. I cleared them out of W.R. and as they intended going ashore, though 11 pm, I told them they had better clear out. I was C.O. However, no, they began making a row on the Quarter Deck, and as I was determined not to allow the scandal to go on, I sent for Paris and ordered him out of ship and then for Easther and gave him the option of going down to his cabin, or being reported for drunkenness next morning. (I had him up before the Officer of Watch). He was too drunk to clearly understand, so not giving him time to hesitate, I took him by the arm and marched him down to his cabin, and so saved a row, as I fully intended reporting him if he had not gone down.

5 December - Friday

Dined the 15th Regiment, Colonel Dashwood being step-son of our neighbour - a nice quiet dinner.

6 December - Saturday

M----- came into my cabin about 10.30 pm crying and evidently in great mental distress. Much cast down at the life he was leading. I comforted him.

8 December - Monday

M----- heard of his Mother’s death, poor fellow.

Lord Dufferin and party came in Tasmania - much ado, saluting and manning of yards.

9 December - Tuesday

Governor’s Reception.

10 December - Wednesday

Governor’s Ball, both these entertainments to meet Lord and Lady Dufferin. Unfortunately some misunderstanding has arisen between Government House and this ship. We all attended the Governor’s Levée on Monday the 1st, and of course concluded it counted as a call, as we wrote our names down. But it appears we should have gone next day, or succeeding ones, and written down again. Governor very sarcastic and childish about it all.

DEPART BOMBAY

24 December - Wednesday

Christmas Eve. Steaming down to Colombo from Bombay. Temperature a good deal higher, about 83°.

Just before we left, Bombay held great fête in honour of Lord Ripon. At least the natives held it, as much in a spirit of opposition to the Europeans as for anything else, though I think the Europeans in India have shown some childishness in carrying public opposition into private life.

I attended a great reception at Governor’s. Not many Europeans of the civil element being there, but many officers, native Princes and Parsees. I found myself talking to Haldar, but he could not understand English well. He is a great big fat fellow and does not look a man of very great energy. Lord Ripon looks like a farmer.

ARRIVE COLOMBO

26 December - Friday

Arrived at Colombo, a snug harbour formed by a great breakwater. Landed at 4 pm to bury the poor lad Simpson who died at 1 o’clock this day of fever. A long drive out to the cemetery.

27 December - Saturday

Went up to Kandy by the early train and arrived there after about 4½ hours’ travelling, the last two hours were along a ledge cut out of the mountain side. I must say the scenery was magnificent, looking down hundreds of feet into the valleys below, dotted with paddy fields and the foliage on the mountains and hills, tropical, with far off vistas of Adams Peak and other mountains. An idea can be gained as to the claim set up by the Singalese that their railway runs along the prettiest and finest line in the world. I think they are right.

Put up at the Kandy Club. Went for a ride round a mountain called Lady McCarthy’s Drive. Very good road and fine views. Kandy is a very pretty town, with its lakes, trees and views etc. It stands about 1,800 feet above sea level.

31 December - Wednesday

Mail came in today. My promotion hanging in the balance, my dear old father has worked so hard for me.

1885

ARRIVE TRINCOMALEE

4 January - Sunday

Arrived at Trincomalee at 8 a.m. and moored ship. Commenced the day of rest by sending up Lower Yards, Sails, Masts, etc, at 4 am and after the ship was moored, turned boats out, etc, winding up by short prayers at 11.30 a.m.

Tired and depressed. Had yarn with Commander at 4 pm and told him I had quite given up all idea of my step and felt quite resigned to it. At 11 pm lying down under the poop, tossing about with the heat, the Quarter Master flashed a lantern in my eyes and said, “A telegram, Mr King-Hall.” I leapt up and tore it open - one word “Promoted.” Hearty were the congratulations I received from everyone. I felt most thankful to God for His goodness and answer to our prayers.

5 January - Monday

Admiral signalled off. “Sincere congratulations to Commander King-Hall”, and asked me to dinner.

6 January - Tuesday

Welted the stripe.

12 January - Monday

Commander, Chaplain and young Watson down to fever; Chaplain pretty bad. Major Baldwin always growling, grumbling, discontented and swearing, most trying to stand. Sent Webb and Brownrigg off to a merchant brig tacking up the harbour, they took the wheel and beat her up.

13 January - Tuesday

Heard from Robbie this evening. He was at Melbourne, secretary to a bookmaker. What a profession to take for son of a father and an angel for a Mother. I cannot believe those asleep in the Lord can see what befalls those they leave behind on earth.

14 January - Wednesday

Mail not in, been more than two days coming across from Kandy. It comes part of the way by coach, and the rest of the road on the head of runners. Major Baldwin ‘of ours’, a tremendous growler, he must have an evil sprite always near him.

17 January - Saturday

Walked out to the Fort yesterday and witnessed some Bhuddists worshipping on the Rock, on the side of the cliff, with a drop of about 200 feet, sheer down. The women seemed the most attentive to the long prayers, gabbled off in a monotone by one priest, another striking in at intervals with a singing or chanting response. Numerous offerings with a singing or chanting response. Numerous offerings were made of coco-nuts and bananas.

Dined with Martin at the Hospital House, and had a very pleasant yarn over old times with him. Morton in a very critical state. He cannot keep anything down and weak. Martin told me that Morton must have been drinking a little too much. I don’t doubt it, I’m sorry to say.

Fitzgerald heard of his promotion to Lieutenant yesterday whilst out on a cricket field. I am very glad to hear it. Our side (Navy) tied Army in the first innings and in the second had four more runs to win in four minutes. We just managed to get five, and so won.

The Fort here has two dates on it, the outer side of gate has fleur-de-lys and 1675, whilst the inner side has a rose and 1676. It appears the French built the Fort and lent it to the Dutch, we took it from them in 1676, and erected the inner gate, showing the rose on it.

19 January - Monday

Commander and I went over to Solar Island. It was my first visit to the place and a most charming place it is. I was much pleased with the Ward Room Bungalow, nice and clean and commanding a most charming view of the harbour and surrounding country. Found the Paymaster and Easther sitting in lounge chairs, legs up, rigged in pyjamas, and looking as thoroughly happy as men could. The G.R. Bungalow situated some couple of hundred yards off is also a very good one.

ARRIVE CALCUTTA

2 February - Monday

Anchored off the mouth of the Hooghly.

3 February - Tuesday

Proceeded up Hooghly on a slashing flood tide, crossed the James and Mary Shoal, nearly touching on several occasions and arrived up at the city in the evening.

17 February - Tuesday

On February 4th the ship was moored opposite the Eden Gardens, and connected with the shore by pontoons and during our stay at Calcutta the ship was crowded with visitors, and a great deal of gaiety went on.

I dined with Sir Donald Stewart and it was during dinner we heard of Khartoum having fallen. I asked him about India and he told me he thought India required 20 more regiments, 5 of cavalry and 15 of infantry.

I went in to the Viceroy’s party, and Lady Dufferin came up and introduced herself to me and then Lord Dufferin came up and had a chat. I made the acquaintance of the River-Thompsons, through introduction of Lord Radstock. Lady R-T is very nice and a sincere Christian woman, anxious to do anything she can in God’s service. Her eldest daughter is the same and I believe the Lieut. Governor is a Christian man. Met young Waldegrave at Calcutta, he and his father just off to Benares. Sir Augustus River-Thompson told me there were any amount of Russian Emissaries about India.

VISIT DELHI

On February 9th I started from the Howrah Station at 9 pm and made for Delhi, which I reached on Wednesday the 11th at 2 pm, having covered 900 miles. I at once took a carriage and pair and visited the Fort and Palace. Most beautiful buildings, the Halls of Audience, apartments and baths and everything of fine marble, beautifully carved and wrought and inlaid with coloured marbles and stones. The screens and window frames look like lace work and certainly the Mogul and his zenana had a fine view sitting in their marble balconies, the broad Jumna flowing underneath them.

I visited the ... [?] of the Royal House, each one most beautifully surrounded with a lace marble screen. I managed to dash out to the Gupta, 11 miles out, a most curious and marvellous pillar. Then back and visited the Jumna - for a second time, the finest Mosque in the East. Then to the Fortifications left in exactly the same position as when battered down in 1857.

VISIT AGRA

Saw Nicholson’s grave and left with regret on Thursday afternoon for Agra. Spent the whole of Friday at Agra, went at early dawn to see the Taj, the wonder of India. I sat and drank in its beauty, what loveliness. I verily believe nothing more beautiful has ever been made by man, grander things no doubt have been built, but never such a gem, a poem. Any man who can look on it without feeling a touch of sad enthusiasm, whilst gazing at it, in its pureness and soft beauty, must be a brute.

I dare not attempt to give an idea of the building and its surroundings, you long to give vent to your feelings and feel you can’t. Inside the Mausoleum there is an echo, finer than that at Pisa. I ran off chords and the echo sounded like a note on the organ getting fainter and fainter. I must not go on, or I should never stop.

I sat for 1½ hours simply looking at it, then on to the Fort where I visited the pearl of Mosques and it is indeed a pearl of pearls, and then on to the Royal apartments, more beautiful, if possible, than those at Delhi, the famed glass baths, and then back to the Taj again and left for Benares that night.

VISIT BENARES

Arrived at Benares midday on Saturday, found out the Revd T. Hewlett, London Missionary Band, who acted as my cicerone and showed me round. It was most interesting. I went down the river in a boat and past all the ghats and palaces of India’s Rajahs. Saw holy men bathing; pilgrims marching round the 50 (36) mile circuit; witnessed the dead bodies being washed in the Ganges and then laid on the funeral pile at one end of the ghats.

Landed and had a look at the most sacred spot in India, the Well of Shiva. Hewlett, who has been 20 years at Benares, had a friendly discussion with the Brahmin priests in charge, who asked him whom he worshipped, “Jesus or Mary?” Then through the town, narrow streets chock full of temples.

ARRIVE MADRAS

23 February - Monday

Madras. Anchored yesterday inside the harbour, the front face of which instead of being built at an angle to the sea, is at right angles, the consequence of which is that a good deal of it has been washed away.

The Commander and I landed this afternoon and drove to the Madras Club, certainly the finest in India. It has about 40 acres of grounds and bungalows of all kinds, swimming baths, racket and tennis courts, etc., etc. Grant-Duff and party visited ship.

Madras is a place of large spaces and covers a great deal of ground. I fancy a much quieter place than official Calcutta or commercial Bombay. A good trade goes on, notwithstanding its difficulties of not possessing a good harbour.

ARRIVE TRINCOMALEE

26 February - Thursday

Trincomalee. Arrived this morning - coaling.

28 February - Saturday

Description of what a camel will carry, its speed, endurance etc. The average rate of progress is singularly uniform, and may be called 2½ miles an hour. The length of its march depends entirely on the duration of daylight, but an average day’s march is 9 to 10 hours, traversing a distance of 35 to 40 kilometres, or 22 to 25 miles.

Weight usually carried is from 3 to 5 cwt. Powerful animals can carry 1,000 lbs. for several days. 2 soldiers with their arms, accoutrements, etc is considered a good load.

Endurance. Camels can go 10 days without drinking, and 20 without eating.

The longest march of Darfour [Dar-Fur] Caravan is 10 days without water, but in practice 6 lbs of grain and a trifling quantity of water is given, if able to carry it.

During winter a camel drinks less of course, and at intervals of several days; about 10 gallons at a time. Full daily allowance of forage is 30 to 40 lbs.

Dromedaries are merely wellbred camels trained for speed and endurance, not many in Egypt.

Egyptian camel corps keep up an average trot of 5 miles an hour. After Tel-el-Kebir in November 1883, they went 50 miles on end without inconvenience.

The French regiment of Dromedaries have marched for long periods at rate of 75 miles a day.

An Egyptian camel has been known to do 115 miles in 11 hours.

The Darfour Caravan generally lose 200, sometimes more, out of 1,500; and have at times lost as much as 500 out of 1,500.

2 March - Monday

See Lord Torrington has married Miss E. Seymour, a charming girl. Anxious to get home. My old flame.

DEPART TRINCOMALEE

14 March - Saturday

Off the Malabar Coast steaming to Bombay from Colombo, in full expectation of hearing that war has broken out between England and Russia. I trust we shall not come to any grief out in China, but I fear somewhat, knowing the vessels we have out there, the immense interests to protect, on the one hand and the large Russian Squadron and no interest, on the other.

Had a boat out at night quarters on Wednesday night, firing broadsides of blank and blazing away machine guns and rifles. Admiral, full of champagne, and had lost at whist.

LEFT SHIP AT BOMBAY

3 April - Friday

SS Malabar steaming through the Suez Canal.

On Friday the 21st of March, I found myself leaving Bombay harbour in this ship, gear stowed in a very comfortable cabin, my mate being Hungerford.

We sighted Aden on Thursday the 27th and by that time I had taken stock of my fellow passengers, consisting of officers going home on furlough, and a good many on sick leave, about a dozen ladies and many children.

One young fellow, called Hatton of the 72nd was recalled at the last moment, and had to leave the ship within a quarter of an hour of sailing.

The troops are under the command of Major Alexander of the 78th, going home, transferred to the sister battalion, and but lately married to a very nice person, whom I have the pleasure of sitting next to at meals.

We have several Colonels and wives, viz:- Colonel Campbell and wife, Colonel and Mrs Caine, both very nice quiet people, and many gunmen and engineers. Young Burrard, a talented young fellow, who has had concussion of the brain and attack of the sun, rather on the wrong tack at present, reading the Martyrdom of Man and believing such blasphemous trash. He is a nice young fellow and I am sorry to see it. Must get his [?] Rive de ma vie.

Foley, the masher, very correct in his dress, pyjamas and appearance is dapper (Capt.) and brother to the two Foleys in Navy. Cumberland the growler, but a very good fellow, is brother to the man in the 42nd. He tells me his brother fears that his knee will never recover from the bullet wound received at Tel-el-Kebir; and we have a tall young fellow, ‘lean and lank’, in Madras Cavalry, all dressed in blue, and is quite the man for nurses and children, called ‘The Boy in Blue’.

Batten, a 2nd Punjab Cavalry man, and I should say a dashing fellow too. He has all the esprit-de-corps a frontier man should have. Metcalfe and St Aubyn, two young fellows in the Rifle Brigade, the latter is a son of Sir John’s, a very nice young fellow, and looks quite the gay garçon with his eye-glass screwed into his eye. A kind of fellow that his sister would delight in spoiling. Three of the 14th Hussars, very good fellows. None of them could tell me how long a time a soldier entered for in the Army. Kirk has a modest swagger on.

Phillips of the 28th is also on board, a nephew of Phillips, Lord Hopetoun’s secretary, and many other young fellows.

Major General Harward, wife and three daughters also going home. Miss Harward, about 20, professes to believe such utter bosh as palmistry. A young girl and a very nice one too. Would make a very good wife to a man she was fond of and that she could look up to and lean on, for I can see she has the proverbial weakness of her sex, a desire to lean on someone else for guidance. I should say she often longs to fly high walking her daily round of life, but lacks perseverance and application, and requires someone by to stimulate and urge her on. Would make a good friend.

Having thus passed in review a few of my fellow passengers, let me resume my narrative.

We entered the Red Sea with a strong wind astern and I got my cabin flooded. Days and evenings passing very quietly on board. Suez was reached on Wednesday, and we were put under observation until the following morning. Went out sailing with a lot of the young soldiers and sprinkled the spray about. Thursday we were delayed all day waiting for invalids from Korti, who did not arrive until midnight. It would have been much better to have sent them to Ismailia and saved 12 hours travelling. Many of the Camel Corps came, amongst them being Livingstone of 42nd and Major Swaine, the Censor of Telegrams.

TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL

Entered the Canal Friday morning (Good Friday) and are only a few miles off Port Said, so should be on our way to Malta this evening. We’ve passed several Italian men of war and one French loaded with mules etc.

Malta. Dined on board the Superb, met Corry, Prothero, Gamson, etc. After dinner went to the Opera and saw Il Barbiere - disappointed. Sailed at midnight for England.

ARRIVE PORTSMOUTH

2 May - Saturday

The Elms, Sutton Bonington. The old Malabar arrived in Portsmouth Harbour on the 19th of April (Saturday) remained there until Monday at the George Hotel. Found it very comfortable and came up to Francie’s, Queen’s Gate, where I remained ten days and then came down home, finding the two girls convalescent after their severe bout of bad throats.

Had a letter from Hall of Intelligence Department asking me to come up and give any information I could about Vladivostock, so went up and talked over plans etc. If war breaks out with Russia, an expedition of 10,000 men are going up that way to take the place.

Kennedy appointed from Lord Warden to Ajax. Rooke goes with and also two Lieutenants from Lord Warden, a great disappointment to me, but of course Kennedy could not do anything else. Met him at the Admiralty. Fane wrote me asking if I would go as his Commander on his getting a ship. I replied “Yes.”

6 May - Wednesday

Political Meeting at school room last night, Paget in the chair. Mr Touchstone gave a splendid speech of 1½ hours and then our candidate, Dr Robinson, spoke very well. My father spoke out very plainly against the Government, not so much as a politician, but as a Christian man against Mr Bradlaugh, which annoyed many of the Radicals. For next evening at our Temperance Meeting they all absented themselves, and abused my father very much, showing much ingratitude. I’ve rarely met such a lot of narrow-minded bigots and boors as are to be met with in this village of Sutton Bonington.

9 May - Saturday

Yesterday went with my step-mother to lunch with Miss Bateman, her young man, the Rev. M Hepworth, accompanying us. They did nothing but make eyes at each other the whole of lunch, and Miss Bateman paid much attention to Mr Hepworth.

20 May - Wednesday

124, Buckingham Palace Road.

Came up to lodgings last Friday from Cheltenham where I had been paying Baldie a visit. Have as fellow lodgers, Harrison, a School Inspector and Callender - once upon a time in the Admiralty. Yesterday went with Harrison to see a school inspected. Much surprised at hearing 100 boys singing in the Tonic Sol-Fa system, they ran up and down scales in a most marvellous manner, jumping nimbly form sharp to flat and major to minor keys. One poor young woman, a pupil teacher, was laid up by mental excitement and overwork.

Last night after coming back from the Industrial Exhibition in Whitechapel, went to a reception at Lady Ripon’s at Carlton Terrace, a tremendous crush. Many Liberal notabilities there. I have been going down every evening to the Whitechapel Exhibition to support the ladies. Met Miss Morley there, a very nice person, also the Rowland-Smiths and Ryders, both of whom have asked me to call. Lady Hobart has worked so hard.

26 May - Tuesday

Exhibition closed last night. Committee wrangled on platform.

4 June - Thursday

Yesterday met father, step-Mother and Edie at Albemarle Street. Went to the Admiralty with father, and ultimately saw Edie off from Paddington.

Went to Lady Aberdare’s reception, a lot of ladies there.

Met Bertie and took him down to George Yard, Mr Holland showing us over. Dined at Club and then on to Queen’s Gate and went with Francie, Ted, Mrs Willoughby and Mrs Reid and Von Muller to ...[?] Gardens and Strauss Band lovely. Caught a cold sitting out.

5 June - Friday

Down at Whitechapel with the Hobarts to witness Lord Ripon giving away prizes. Nearly collapsed myself in a house that fell in, from which I lugged a fat woman with a broken leg.

6 June - Saturday

Bertie and I dined with Ted and Francie, Mrs Willoughby and Mrs Reid there.

7 June - Sunday

Refused a dance at 31, Belgrave Square. Don’t mean to start going out. Feel very lonely at times in my lodgings and sometimes depressed at seeing how idle a life one leads.

8 June - Monday

Came back from Cheltenham this evening, having gone there this morning to bring Mr Porcher to book, who had called Baldie a liar on two occasions. Mr P. was a bit startled at my coming, as I hit out pretty straight, he however, did not show a ‘stiff upper lip’, so I held out a reconciling hand. He expressed his regret, and said it was done hastily and the matter ended, amicably - got home 8 pm.

I came to The Elms on Friday last, accompanied by Bertie and we have been having a very pleasant time.

I wonder how Constance Beauchamp (later Mrs Douglas) is. I think perhaps it is just as well the Mother would not allow it, for £500 is not very much to start on. I feel very much for the poor girl. I fancy I’m cut out for a crusty bachelor.

7 July - Tuesday

Father, Bertie and I walked into Loughborough, 6 miles off, and enjoyed it very much. Dear old father spinning away yarns. Rained part of the way and got slightly wet. Came back by train.

8 July - Wednesday

This day last year left home for London to start by the Donald Steamer Norham Castle. I went with father this day into Leicester to attend a drawing-room Meeting of the Evangelical Alliance, at Theodore Walker’s. General Field spoke, as did my father. Enjoyed it very much.

9 July - Thursday

This day last year left England for India. Now I’m a Commander and in good health, and I do feel most thankful to my Lord for His Mercy and goodness to me.

10 July - Friday

Bertie and I went into Loughborough and from 5.30 to 7.30 Ella, Mother, Bertie and I played away at lawn tennis. Mother is going on much better and everything is much improved at home, but yet how I long for a more perfect home.

Lel is a most dear girl, so vivacious and warm-hearted, as is dear Edie. Staying at present with Francie and Ted at Broke Hall.

14 July - Tuesday

Broke Hall, Ipswich.

Came down yesterday, and drove with Ted out to see the Decoy. A large pond surrounded with trees and high banks with walks behind them, so that everything is most quiet and the ducks, teal etc. cannot see anyone walking round the lake. There are four decoys at this lake. One at each corner, and so arranged that a person can see the pond, whilst the birds cannot see you. When you go down to the pond, a piece of peat is lighted and carried by each person, in case they should scent danger.

The Decoy is a pipe or trench cut in the ground and curving away to right or left, about 2 feet of water in it, though of course it varies. A few tame ducks are kept on the pond, and are accustomed to be fed in the pipe.

The order of procedure is to come down with a trained spaniel and carrying a piece of lighted peat, and have a look through one of the shutters A (composed of thatched straw, about 6 feet high) [see sketch] and see if there are any ducks on the pond. If any, you go to the mouth of the pipe and send your dog inside the shutter A at f1 on to the banks of pipe and also whistle for the tame ducks. As soon as you have sent the dog in, you go to where the next shutter overlaps, at f2 and the dog comes to you. Meanwhile the ducks come swimming into the pipe to have a look at the dog, accompanied by the tame ducks.

You, looking through the thatched straw, seeing how far the ducks are up in the pipe, work your dog accordingly until you have got them well up the pipe out of sight of ducks on the pond, you then double round the outer shutter, so that ducks in pipe cannot see you, then getting well on the pond side of them, and then show yourselves to them through the intervals between the inner shutters, which hid you from ducks in pond. Those in the pipe seeing you, take to flight and fly up the pipe, which is at the entrance about 20 feet high and 20 across, gradually getting smaller and smaller, until at end it is only big enough for a duck to struggle along (I must mention that the tunnel, is covered over with arched wire-work).

When the ducks get to the end of pipe, which is about 100 feet along, the last 8 feet are taken off and ring given a twist, too, and thus the ducks are caught. Last season Ted got about 1,500 duck, teal and widgeon out of it.

After October not a gun is allowed near the pond and it is kept a perfect sanctuary.

15 July - Wednesday

Had a look at the pheasant being reared by hens, Ted has 3,000 young ones which will be turned out. There are not many wild ones, though there were about 3,000 eggs seen, yet the young wild ones do not thrive in Suffolk. We saw several coveys of young partridges, not big ones though, only about 6 or 8 in a covey.

It is most interesting at Broke Hall, the many mementoes of the old Shannon and old books etc. The avenue of lime trees is also very fine. The park is a pretty one, the River Orwell flowing along the side of it. Colonel Tomline’s immense house is close too - he seems a rum fellow.

The Duck Pond used to be worth about £400 a year. Rent of shooting 4,500 acres is £1,100. Game sold about £400. Rent of the house is [?].

17 July - Friday

Left for town and in the evening started for Paris via Dieppe.

Heard that Bertie had just missed his first.