21 FEB - 8 OCT 1907
TOUR OF EAST COAST
21 February - Thursday
Left Q.town for Kingstown to meet Colleen.
22 February - Friday
Dear little Lou’s birthday, 10 years of age.
Olga arrived from Q.town on board Colleen .
I inspected Laytown and Ballybriggan C.G. Stations
23 February - Saturday
Got as far as Howth Head in Colleen. Found I could not land in boat at Stations, so returned and went by train to Malahide and inspected station there. Met Cdr and Mrs Grouse, he is D.O., whom I had not seen since the Shannon days.
24 February - Sunday
Blowing hard from N.W.
25 February - Monday
Took Olga to Leinster which left at 8.15 am for Holyhead.
I inspected Lough Shinney, Rush and Rogerstown C.G. Stations.
26 February - Tuesday
Left Kingstown 8 am. Took the train to Drogheda, drove out 3 miles to see the site of the Battle of the Boyne, most interesting expedition, as from Murray’s Guide, I could follow the whole idea and the country is just the same. The Islands in the river where K. William’s troops crossed, the ford where Schomberg was killed and the place where King James spent the night, and saw his son-in-law crossing.
I was immensely interested and very glad I visited it. Drove up the north side of the Boyne, crossed the Bridge, where Schomberg memorial stands, by the ford and drove back to Drogheda by the south side of the river, which flows through the middle of the town.
Drove on to the mouth of Boyne C.G. Station and on to Clogher W.S.S., 7 miles, where I embarked on board the Colleen and steamed on to Carlingford Lough. Arrived there 5 pm.
27 February - Wednesday
Trained to Dundalk and inspected Soldiers Point C.G. Station. Lieut. Sims, D.O. was gunner of Powerful and shut up in Ladysmith. A smart Officer. Drove 13 miles to inspect site of Whitestown W.S.S. then 7 miles to Carlingford C.G. Station, a most interesting town. St Patrick said to have landed here. Several old ruins, one a very large castle, time of John.
I had a good look at it A most substantially built keep and walls enclosing a Court and must have been of some importance in its time; close to the sea on a rock and commanding on the land side, the pass or road at the foot of the Carlingford Mountains. There are also ruins of an old Abbey and a couple of Square towers, or keeps in the town, one having curious scrolls round the windows. The town is entered through a small gateway, over the arch being a room and a hole where a pole was stuck out and hanging took place from it, the body dangling over the road. A small covered gate and steps leading up to room above archway.
Continued my drive to Omeath C.G. 4 miles, the opposite side of the Lough. Rostrevor looked most inviting.
Colonel Ross of Bladensburg (a connection of Olga’s), and through whose family Quinton Castle came to the Calverts and then to the Kers, lives outside Rostrevor, to whom part of the place belongs. A monument is erected to the memory of Gen. Ross who was killed in the American War and gained for his family the addition of Bladensburg.
Colonel Hall of Narrow Waters House (a large building) owns most of the land on the opposite side and also the town of Warren Point.
Returned by train to Greenore and on board Colleen.
28 February - Thursday
Inspected Greenore C.G. and then Cranfield C.G. on the opposite side of the Lough, and steamed along the coast, inspecting Kilkeel and Annalong C.G. Stations.
A Southerly wind getting up and sea, obliged me to return to Kingstown where I arrived at 10.30 pm.
1 March - Friday
To my great disappointment had a telegram from Olga, that on account of Lady Banbury being taken ill (erysipelas in face) she could not attend the Court tonight and consequently Olga cannot go.
Went to Dublin for the afternoon and looked at the Museum.
3 March - Sunday
Heard from Olga, that though she went to the Lord Chamberlain’s Office with Bertie, it was too late to find any one to present Olga, and as Lady Banbury cannot have another chance, Olga must get some one for the May Court.
Landed and attended service at the Mariners’ Church. Spent the rest of the day on board, read Philippians prayerfully through.
4 March - Monday
Left at 6.30 am and went by train to Gorey, arriving there at 8.30 and passing through some very pretty country, the Vales of Arklow and Avoca. Drove from Gorey to Courtown, 4 miles, inspected C.G. Station and on to Kilmichael C.G. 7 miles and then to Ballymoney C.G. 7 to 8 miles and on to Arklow C.G. another 7 miles and caught the 5.24 train and back to Kingstown by 7.15 pm.
Arklow very flourishing from its fishing and especially from Kynoch’s Establishment.
Only yesterday 240,000 lbs of gelatine went away. It principally goes to South Africa and Australia for blasting purposes.
5 March - Tuesday
Took the train to Wicklow and drove out 6 miles to inspect Ballinacarrig C.G.
6 March - Wednesday
Left Kingstown at 3.30 am in Colleen and landed at Cahore C.G. Inspected station and W.S.S. Hut.
Received an invitation from Mrs George living in a large house close by, and principal landlord of the place, to lunch. Hearing I could not land along the coast I wired to Gorey for a carriage and pair which arrived at 1 pm. Gorey being 12 miles off. Found Mrs George and her two daughters very pleasant and knew some mutual friends, Mrs Bethell and Mrs Watson.
She generally goes abroad every winter but, having phlebitis, has been unable to leave this winter. We sat in the garden, a summer’s day, and they insisted on having an early lunch for me. One of the young ladies doing the honours.
From there I drove 8 miles to Morris Castle C.G. and thence 14 miles to Curracloe C.G. and then on to Wicklow 12 miles and took train to Rosslare Strand; picking Colleen up at 7 pm and started for Kingstown.
7 March - Thursday
A most frightful bucketing last night. No sleep for anyone and at 4 am as we were hardly making any headway, made for shelter at Waterford.
Thick weather, could see no lights and hearing the gun signal, decided to move on until daylight. Eventually anchored at Ballyhack.
Landed at 10.30 am and walked three miles to see ruins of Dunbrody Abbey. Well worth seeing and much of it standing. All the walls and many of the windows.
Sent a telegram to Com. and Mrs Gilpin-Brown, married today at Rushbrooke, whose wedding I would have attended, but for the bad weather.
Took car from Ballyhack to Waterford, 8 miles, and Rosslare mail train to Cork, where Barge met me, and at House at 11 pm. Very tired.
RETURN TO QUEENSTOWN
9 March - Saturday
Olga arrived from London looking so well and pretty and the change has done here a lot of good. Full of news about family in London.
11 March - Monday
My dear father if he had been spared, would have been 91 to day.
The Chairman, Manager and Engineer of Blackrock Railway interviewed me about extension of railway to Haulbowline Dockyard. Am much in favour of it.
12 March - Tuesday
Mr Savage French came to see me about running another steamer from Berehaven to Bantry and the best manner of approaching the Admiralty for assistance. Olga indisposed.
13 March - Wednesday
Went to Fota and had a good game of golf. Walking for over 2 hours.
Madge and Lou, two sweet little things, and both great favourites.
15 March - Friday
Had a party this afternoon about 20-30 people. The entertainment consisting of Magdalen and Lou reciting and acting little pieces together, the Band playing between the pieces. The children did everything uncommonly well.
Of the two Lou is naturally a born actress and looks very sweet when singing her little songs. Magdalen looks handsome. Everyone enchanted, all the servants came, also the faithful O’Brien and Maggie and Katherine.
16 March - Saturday
Blowing a very heavy South Westerly gale and nasty sea in the harbour.
Sad to relate Lt Brierley, a young Gunner at Spike, took a shore boat over and was capsized just off the Admiralty Pier. Two of the men drowned, one leaving a widow and four children. Brierley and 2 others saved.
Olga getting on very well with her French Book, very nearly finished and the little I have seen of it shews me it is a very cleverly written work.
Received Ella’s Valse de Vie. Gave it to the Bandmaster to transpose for the Band.
17 March - Sunday
Attended service at the Parish Church and stayed to the Communion. How I miss Dr Campbell-Morgan at the Westminster Chapel.
Colonel Morris to tea, and told us young Brierly should not have taken the boat over in such bad weather. The little girls sang Hymns with me.
18 March - Monday
Mrs Pullen this morning told Olga she must go as she felt so queer in the head, so she goes this evening and the kitchen maid on Wednesday. Altogether Mrs P. has not behaved well, for she practically got us to get rid of Lily and on her return from leave found Lily would not stay with her, so off she goes.
19 March - Tuesday
A large lunch party of 12. Colleen’s cook came up to assist. Went off very well. Yesterday Miss Dawes and Magdalen Hawker left us, after a nearly 6 months’ visit.
22 March - Friday
Lady Carbery and Lady Alice Gruniston to lunch. The former asked us to Castle Freke next month, but doubtful if we can get away.
23 March - Saturday
Had a good game of golf at Fota. Much improved in my play. Drove over the first bunker for the first time.
29 March - Good Friday
Mademoiselle Rougnan came to us last Thursday, for a holiday engagement from Dublin. Only talks French, very pleasant appearance, about 24 years of age. Her father, now dead, had been a Captain in the French Navy and she lost her brother, also a Naval Officer, by drowning.
No signs of a Cook yet.
30 March - Saturday
Olga and I went up in the Barge to drive with Dr Windle, President of the Queen’s College and met Mr and Mrs Birrell there, he being the Chief Secretary for Ireland. General and Mrs Parsons also there, Lady Coghill, cousin of Windle’s, and Mr Hegarty, Chairman of Cork and Bandon Railway.
Found Birrell had met my father in years gone by, on board Sir Donald Currie’s yacht.
Had a talk with him on Ireland. All coming down to-morrow to tea.
31 March - Easter Sunday
Attended service at the Parish Church. Of course the Choir took the opportunity of the day to sing Anthems and no one able to join in. Rather disgusted.
Hoare lunched with us.
Birrell did not come down, he having a cold.
1 April - Monday
Mr and Mrs Birrell and their son, youngest but one, 17 years, at Eton, came down in Barge to stay with us until Saturday. A quiet dinner.
He and I had a long talk over everything connected with Ireland, and I found he thought about things much the same as I did. We had a talk about the Lords, but did not touch on Devolution. He agreed with me that the Irish lacked moral courage. Said Plunkett would have to go, had done his work. Agreed with me that the laity were anxious to free themselves from the control of the R.C. Hierarchy, but did not feel themselves strong enough yet. Thought it a pity the landlords did not head a moderate party.
Lord Antrim, a Tory of the old school, will not go near Dublin Castle while the Aberdeens are there, but the eldest son, Lord Dunluce told Mrs Birrell that he was a Devolutionist but could not do anything on account of his father.
Birrell also agreed with me that in a few years, the bulk of the landlords would be ardent Home Rulers, once the land question was out of the way.
During the afternoon, called on the Bishop of Cloynes about lending him a Boat to take Promoters of Ballycotton Railway to East Ferry. Agreed to do so, providing that they did not land anywhere else.
2 April - Tuesday
Birrell having a cold had to see the Doctor.
Went with Mrs Birrell for a drive in the motor and had a long talk over everything. He told me that a Committee of the Cabinet had been sitting, to arrange the best method of dealing with the House of Lords, and also that the Devolution Bill would not be so terrible as people thought. Birrell thought with me that in 20 years’ time, the so-called Unionists would be at the head of the Nationalist movement and it was a pity that they did not head a moderate party at once.
I found that he quite agreed with me, as regards the wedge or rather division that is coming between the Hierarchy and the laity as regards education and we had a lot of talk on various subjects.
3 April - Wednesday
The Birrells left us at 3 pm for Dublin as he has to speak there to-morrow. Thanked us very much for our hospitality.
4 April - Thursday
Olga began her At Homes again.
5 April - Friday
Our fifteenth anniversary of our wedding day, and each anniversary finds us more devoted to each other, if such is possible and it is pleasant to look back and think we have never had a row of any sort.
Made Olga present of some pretty China figures, bought at Kate Kinnears.
A dreadful rainy and blowing day, but some dozen people turned up for the meeting of prevention of cruelty to children, and Mr Rodden who had come from Belfast spoke very well.
17 April - Wednesday
Stevie arrived from Osborne with his friend Kenneth Stewart. Edward and Arethusa Leigh-White also arrived from Bantry.
18 April - Thursday
Went up to Cork with Olga and Edward and Arethusa, the latter holding a stall at the Cork Exhibition of Industries. Olga and I on the platform.
I sat next the Lord Mayor, who has refused to take the oath of allegiance. He said to me, “I must come down and call upon you as I believe I should do so first.” I replied “Oh no, I should do so first”, (which is the right etiquette as a matter of fact, but, his having refused to take the oath of allegiance has hitherto prevented me from doing so).
I put the question to Lord Bandon, he being the Lord Lieut. of the County, as to what should be done. He scratched his head and said it was a conundrum. He must have time to think over it.
Father Dowling made a very good speech.
Col. Morris dined with us, also the Barringtons, who are leaving shortly for Dartmouth.
20 April - Saturday
Edward and Arethusa Leigh-White left for Bantry.
22 April - Monday
Kenneth Stewart left for his home 43 Ennismore Gardens, SW. Olga feeling sick at times.
25 April - Thursday
One of Olga’s At Home days, over a 100 people came, some of them sitting over an hour, Band playing. Drawing Room very congested.
26 April - Friday
Motored to Q.town Junction with Olga and then to the Ludlow Beamish’s and had tea there and stayed a couple of hours. Beamish told me a good deal on various matters. An R.C. gentleman told him, that on his asking Dr Kelly, Bishop of Ross, what he thought of Sir Horace Plunkett’s Book, replied, “Did you ever get a whipping at school?” “Yes” was the reply, the Bishop said, “I daresay you deserved it and it did you good.”
Last Wed. and Thursday over 1500 emigrants left for America. Stevie shewn all over the Baltic, 24,000 tons, White Star Line.
29 April - Monday
Saw in the papers Lord de Ros had died. Curiously enough, about a week ago in the middle of the night, Olga and I were talking together and I told her of a dream I had and she told me she had just dreamt that Lord de Ros was dead and that Lady de Ros had married within the year. Remarkable coincidence.
2 May - Thursday
Spoke at the Meeting of the Missions to Seamen in Cork. About 80 present including the Bishop of Cork. Took the Chair.
3 May - Friday
Stevie left for Osborne. He has been a good affectionate boy in every way. Bertie and Mabel most pleased with him in London. Had Band up to play, as he passed by in the Inniscarra.
Miss Raymond and Miss Dewhurst arrived for a fortnight’s visit.
Dear Olga been very unwell the last ten days, from catarrh of the stomach and other reasons.
7 May - Tuesday
A dinner party. Colonel and Mrs Webb, Col and Mrs Barry. Olga too unwell to come down. Miss Raymond did Hostess.
8 May - Wednesday
Olga up, the cause of the mischief her old complaint, so now it is taken in hand by the Doctor, she ought soon to pick up.
The new cook on being spoken to gave warning. Only been here a week.
16 May - Thursday
Took Lou to Concert at the Queen’s Hotel. Signor and Madame Grossi, very good, orchestra played very well indeed. All amateurs.
Had a dinner party last Tuesday.
17 May - Friday
Miss Raymond and Miss Dewhurst left us after a fortnight’s stay.
Colleen left for Kinsale, with nurse, Lou and Madge on board, a fine passage. Olga and I went by train to Cork and then motored to Kinsale, 15 miles. A very fair road and very pretty scenery. Nearly had an accident on entering the town, through a Dray Horse and Cart, suddenly getting athwart the road.
Arrived on board 5 pm, took Olga ashore and called on Mrs Care, wife of Comd. Care. Harbour very picturesque. All the fishing boats, coming in for the week end.
18 May - Saturday
Motored 60 miles to Courtmacsherry, Ring Bar and How Strand. Road not bad at all, very dusty.
Olga better, I am glad to say.
19 May - Sunday
Attended service on shore at the Wesleyan Church. The clergyman had lots in his head and maybe in his heart, but he prayed and preached at such a rate, I could not follow him.
20 May - Monday
Motored with Olga to Oyster Haven 8 miles and inspected C.Guard.
21 May - Tuesday
Motored back to Queenstown through Cork from Kinsale, 32 miles, and enjoyed it. Car going very well indeed.
22 May - Wednesday
Chaplain of the Fleet arrived, Archdeacon Wood. Had a small dinner party for him. Visited Cork and Q.town Homes.
23 May - Thursday
Ch. of Fleet left.
27 May - Monday
4 Battleships of the Atlantic Fleet came in under Egerton Albermarle, Cornwallis, Duncan, and Russell.
Took Egerton for a long motor drive. A lot of youngsters came to tea and tennis.
28 May - Tuesday
We had a large dinner party, 16. Followed by a dance which went off very successfully. About 60 present and being a fine night, every one could sit out in the tents.
Egerton told me about his difference of opinion with Sir John Fisher, when 2 Sea Lord, about the Education Scheme. How Fisher beckoned him out of the council chamber and led him into his room and then shook his fist at him and almost spat at him, saying “If you oppose my Education Scheme, I will crush you.” Fisher beside himself with rage.
Egerton kept cool and refused to be bullied into agreeing with Fisher that Torpedo Lieut.’s. could be made in three months. Shortly afterwards Fisher became C.in.C. at Portsmouth and Egerton being the Captain of Vernon, Fisher made himself as disagreeable as possible and kept ordering Egerton to send his reasons in writing for letting a gunboat go out to Spithead when the South Cone was hoisted.
When the three months elapsed, Egerton refused to sign the certificates of the Torp. Lieut.’s. that they were competent and Fisher had to give in, but he managed to keep Egerton waiting 18 months before he hoisted his flag.
Arbuthnott, who also opposed him, has never hoisted his flag.
He also told me a lot about the Germans, how very thorough they are in making every preparation for war with England, how the public houses and Hotels on the East Coast and Portsmouth Hard are falling into their hands and even the Sun Hotel, the only one at Chatham, in the hands of a German Proprietor with German Servants.
Sir Charles Hotham met a German Officer in the General Staff, staying at the same house, and had been shooting the year before at a country house. He asked Hotham the name of the village blacksmith, near the place they had been shooting at the year before. Hotham could not remember, the German said it did not matter, he could find out, as they kept a list of every blacksmith forge and shoeing place in England. We know that they have a list of all milling places.
There is no doubt that the Germans are leaving nothing to chance and are most thorough in every detail and one feels a kind of despair that we are quarrelling about Education, and everything else, and leaving out of sight the necessity of the nation being prepared to meet one of the most powerful and highly organised nations on the earth.
Compulsory service is needed, to discipline the nation and a proper Education free from all sectarian jealousy and control. Oh! for a true patriotic Government.
30 May - Thursday
All yesterday and today raining and blowing.
Dined last night with Egerton, a large party and smoked dry by the atmosphere.
31 May - Friday
Atlantic Ships sailed. Egerton dined last night.
3 June - Monday
Nini, Olga and I left by the 3 pm train for Dublin and arrived on board the Colleen at 8.30 pm where we slept.
VISIT LONDON
4 June - Tuesday
Olga and I left by the Holyhead boat at 8.15 am and arrived in London 5.40 pm. Olga going to Hetty Sligo de Pothonier, 12 Upper Belgrave Street and I to Bertie and Mabel. A few days off at 5 Eaton Square. B.and M cordially welcomed me.
5 June - Wednesday
Made calls at the Admiralty on Controller. Saw Director Dockyards. Willie May, 2 Sea Lord, told me that he was up late last night, selecting 20 Lieut.’s out of 55 names and from what he said I am afraid that neither Com. Lacy or West have much chance of promotion.
Arranged with D.N.I’s department about the Examination Service and then saw Private Secretary, Evan Thomas, and told him Warden had better not come as Flag Captain, on account of his wife. He agreed and left the matter entirely to me.
Saw Secretary Thomas and had a yarn with him.
Dined with Bertie and Mabel.
6 June - Thursday
Had the pleasure of meeting Buz, who lunched with me at the Club and met dear ED and saw Francie. Took Olga to make calls on the Stewarts, 43 Ennismore Gardens, found them out, and on to Lady Margaret Proby’s. Found her in and Colonel Proby also. Lady Margaret very nice. I had met her in Dublin. She is presenting Olga tonight and also her daughter.
7 June - Friday
The Court last night was a very crowded one and went off very well. We started in Hetty’s carriage at 9.15 after Bertie and Mabel had come in and admired Olga’s dress etc. and altho’ fairly early, we had to take our place by the Admiralty and many after us. There were double rows of carriages all along.
We kept in line with Leveson and his wife, who were in a splendid motor.
At 10.15 or 10.30 we got into the Palace and took our seats in a large brilliantly illuminated domed room, and there sat for about an hour, and eventually Olga went round before their Majesties. The gentlemen attending went round another way to meet their ladies and I was fortunate enough to get a view into the Room where the obeisances were being made and I was much struck with the dignified and low curtsey made by Olga before the King and then before the Queen, and her dress and train was certainly one of the prettiest there and very uncommon. Nearly all the trains being white. Olga’s dress being a very pretty gown of maize and the train silver with brown chiffon over it, and garlanded with roses to match. Most artistic and unusual. Olga look very pretty.
We had supper and got away about twelve o’clock. Everything most beautifully arranged.
Mabel told me she thought Olga looked so pretty.
Dr Twynam came and saw Olga and I intend leaving her in London under his care until everything is safe.
I left by the 8.45 pm train from Euston.
RETURN TO QUEENSTOWN
8 June - Saturday
Travelled down from Dublin with Father Dowling who gave me a lot of information as regards the antipathy of the Germans against us. He travels in Germany, and, being a priest and an Irishman, they think that he is antagonistic to the English. He told me Miss Lynch of Lynch’s Hotel had spoken to him, about a very gentlemanly waiter that had just left her, whom she was anxious to keep. He always stipulated that he should have a certain time off, and then he needed to go off in a knickerbocker suit on his bicycle. No one knew where.
Found the girlies well.
Hunter gone off on leave with his wife and child.
11 June - Tuesday
Hunter returned and found he had secured a very good billet in his native town as Chauffeur, £2 a week and all found. So as I only give 30/- a week and rooms, I could not expect to keep him.
TOUR OF KERRY AND LIMERICK COAST
13 June - Thursday
Left in motor for Tarbert, passing through Mallow, Charleville, Croom, Adare, Foynes, a distance of 98 miles. Averaged 17 miles an hour. Very good and level road nearly all the way. Passed many interesting ruins, especially at Croom, where there are very fine remains of one of the Fitzgerald Castles and Banqueting Hall. Some of the roads were shadowed by trees, very pretty and park like.
Arrived 5 pm and found one of the axles more than half way through, on account of the balls having broken. Hunter most certainly to blame. He was supposed to have examined the wheels and machine thoroughly before starting, which he evidently did not do.
14 June - Friday
Patching up the motor to send it back to Queenstown. Inspected Tarbert C.Guard. Men do nothing but farm their large gardens and keep the building clean and practise signalling.
All my motor trips and inspections spoilt by Hunter’s carelessness.
15 June - Saturday
Hunter left at 6.30 am and a telegram from Secretary announced his arrival at Q.town at 2.30 pm. I left in a carriage and pair and drove to Listowel, a distance of 12 miles, leaving at 7 am and took train to Tralee and Fenit. Inspected C.G. Station, a X.tian C.B.C. in charge.
Then walked down to the Quay and boarded the Mission’s vessel to which I belong as a member of the Council, and had a talk with Captain Ship, the skipper, a splendid type of an intelligent and superior X.tian seaman, able to bind up not only the wounds of the body, but of the soul. He speaks very well.
He was glad to see me, as many as 80-100 fishermen attend the service and meetings held on board. Many fishing boats come to Fenit and also large steamers and corn ships, bringing maize for the cattle.
Drove 15 miles to Ballyheige C.G.. Jammed my finger badly in closing window, hurt a good deal, fortunately had arrived at C.G. Station and held it under tap and bound it up. Hear from the D.O. that Mr Crosbie of Ballyheige Castle was an earnest worker in the cause of temperance, so called up there, found a smart young fellow of 35, late of the 23 Welsh Fusiliers, delighted to see me and offered me his motor car to run me round the coast. A fine place. I could only stay 5 minutes and then drove on to Casheen C.G., another 15 miles, and after inspecting it, drove on 18 miles to Tarbert, 60 miles in the day in landaus and broughams that had seen better days.
The country round Tralee seemed rich and smiling and thickly populated. Saw at Rattoo the most perfect round tower in Ireland, 96 feet high, with its conical cap. 46 ft round the base.
16 June - Sunday
Landed for Church. Matter good, but the Canon trying to win a race in rapidity of reading and preaching. A lack of spirituality I thought.
Yesterday, gave my driver a message to give Father Dillon, who is addressing a Temperance meeting of 500 men today at Tralee. Mr Leslie sent off his card and asked me to call, so went up to Tarbert House and had tea there. 2 daughters, son away. Long talk over Ireland. Mr Leslie in despair.
17 June - Monday
Left Tarbert for Kilcredaun. Met carriage there and drove out 10 miles to Loop Head W.S.S. and after inspecting it, had a look over the Light House, in most excellent order. Then drove 18 miles to Kilkee and inspected C.G. Station and on 9 miles to Cappa and inspected C.G. Station there and embarked in Colleen for Tarbert.
Telegrams from Q.town about King’s visit on 11 July. Lord Knollys says King wishes me to be present.
Much struck with the desertion of the country. My driver pointed out to me many of the cottages, where he had known large families. Two he pointed out to me had 14 young men and girls in them, now no one, and many others in ruins.
He told me the history of a thorough old Irish garvie, he drives the priest all round, so knows the history of every one, and was present at the eviction of many of Vandeleur’s tenants, but it appears the present Mr Vandeleur drove round with a friend and enquired into all the cases. He dismissed the Agent and rebuilt much more substantially many of the cottages, that had been pulled down, but I have never seen a country side so denuded. Cottages only with old and very young people as a rule.
Heard from Lt Fletcher, that Sir Dyce Duckworth, the great London physician, who is abusing me as a disloyal Home Ruler, generally rents Mr Crosbie’s place Ballyheige Castle, every summer.
18 June - Tuesday
Trained from Kilrush to Quilty and then went on an outside Car to C.G. Station at Scafield. Found in the C.B.C. an old shipmate of mine of the Shannon days, a stoker of the Steam Launch, that worked very well. Asked for his promotion.
From there drove to Liscannor, 14 miles, through Milltown Malbay and past the noted Lahinch golf links. Inspected the C.G. and drove back to Lahinch Railway Station and was witness to a party leaving for America, very pathetic, much crying and wailing.
All along this coast, many of the Armada ships were wrecked and all the crews, either drowned or killed.
From Kilkee went to Tarbert, picked up mails and anchored in Carrigaholt Roads for the night.
Heard from Hoare. Much pleased that I have given my sanction to his proposing for the hand of Miss B.
19 June - Wednesday
Left the Shannon at 4 am and after a great bucketing about, arrived at Brandon Quay 8.30 am. Landed and inspected the C.G. Station. One C.G. and Mrs Babbage, wife of another down with enteric fever and another C.G. man down with lungs.
Cheered them up and also the wife of the S.O. Mrs Caddye, who was down, on account of her having lost a baby not long ago. Then drove over the Connor pass in a Car, having to walk part of the way, the road being so steep. Very fine scenery, unfortunately the tops of the mountains were hid in the mist, which we passed through crossing the pass.
Arrived after 14 mile drive at Dingle 1.30 pm and Mrs Brock, a Cornish woman, wife of the Div. and Station Officer gave me tea and some very good home made bread and Devonshire Cream. A nice family, one son getting £500 a year as Civil Engineer in Africa, Zanzibar.
From Dingle drove 8 miles to Ballinagall C.G. and then another 8 miles to Ventry, in pouring rain since Dingle, and picked up the Colleen at Ventry, she having had a very bad time coming round from Brandon Quay, to Ventry.
At 6.30 pm made a start for Valentia 10 miles off in the opposite peninsula as the weather looked so threatening. Had a rough passage over and got in just in time, for it came on to blow hard from the SW just as we got in.
20 June - Thursday
Had tea with the Spring-Rices, he a distant cousin to Olga and his grandfather Lord Monteagle was a great friend of my g.father, and at one time I had a bust of Lord Monteagle, but it was lost when my step mother got rid of all my things on marrying my father during my absence abroad.
22 June - Saturday
Captain Donelan MP came and sat an hour with me. Talked very freely of things. I gathered there was no real rupture between the Liberals and the Nationalists.
RETURN TO QUEENSTOWN
29 June - Saturday
This day 32 years ago, my loved mother died in my arms of cancer, at Admiralty House, Devonport.
Heard from Olga who returns from London on Monday.
Busy making arrangements about the King’s visit at Kingstown on the 10th of July.
1 July - Monday
My beloved Olga arrived by the Rosslare route from London. Went up in the Barge to meet her and looking very well.
3 July - Wednesday
Went out last night to Templebreedy Fort, raining and blowing, to test the proposed new site of W.S.S.
4 July - Thursday
Last night went up with the Wests to the Military Tattoo, very well done, a great crowd.
5 July - Friday
Last night a dinner party, the Crosbies came over from Ballyheige Castle to stay for the night. Wests and Lady Mary Aldworth and Lt Fane.
The Crosbies left this morning. Such nice people. He is a T.T. and a very good speaker. An out and out X.tian couple, but as Olga would say, not frumpy. He and I had some delightful talks together. He is so kind to the Coast Guard men, all round the Kerry coast. Was in the Welsh Fusiliers, is about 40 I should think, and is on the Kerry County Council. His scheme of land purchase, as far as I can make it out, is an uncommonly clever one and I should not be surprised if something came of it. Left Q.town for Dublin, and arrived on board Colleen 8.30 pm.
TO DUBLIN - VISIT OF KING EDWARD VII
6 July - Saturday
Went up to Dublin Castle and arranged matters with Sir John Ross of Bladensburg (a cousin of Olga’s), General Bunbury and Sir George Holmes and Sir Arthur Vicars, re. the visit of the King. Shortly after I left, the discovery was made of the robbery of the State Jewels, worth some £50,000.
7 July - Sunday
Attended service morning and evening at the Mariners’ Church. Heard a very good sermon in the evening on Peace be with you.
8 July - Monday
Olga arrived from Queenstown and came on board the Colleen.
9 July - Tuesday
Olga went up to the Shelbourne Hotel. Every thing arranged for the King’s visit.
10 July - Wednesday
H.M Yacht came in at 3.30 am. At 8 am a lot of bunting etc. flying.
At 11.45 His Excellency the Lord Lieut attended by Lord Grenfell and myself, waited upon the King, who shook hands with us, the King said to me “Your father was a very old friend of mine, I remember him well” and made some other remarks.
We then went ashore to receive H.M. who landed at 12.15 and inspected the mixed guard of Naval and Military. I walked down the Naval Guard. My Band playing. He remarked what fine looking men they were. They were nearly all Coast Guards.
I then jumped into a Motor Car with General Plumer and we took a circuitous route and got round to the International Exhibition before the vice Regal and the Royal Processions and after the usual addresses, we all went to lunch. Olga being there.
We lunched at the same table as H.M. From there Olga and I motored to the Shelbourne Hotel where I changed into Frock Coat and Sword from Full Uniform and joined by West.
Went in my motor, which had come up from Queenstown, to the Vice Regal Lodge, where some thousands of guests had arrived for the Garden Party.
We did not stay long, for as soon as H.M. arrived. Olga, I and West motored down to Kingstown and went on board Colleen. At the Garden Party, we made the acquaintance of Lord and Lady Clarina and their girls, also Lady Plumer and some friends from the South.
At 8.15 Olga and I went on board the Yacht to dinner. H.M. and the Queen and Princess Victoria received us and shook hands. I sat next to Mrs Birrell and Lt Col Frederick; Olga being taken in by Lord Liverpool. The R.M.A. Band played.
After dinner, we stood outside under the Awning (covered in) and talked. Princess Victoria and the Queen talked to Olga. The King quite radiant and most genial. About 36 to dinner. The Queen looks marvellously young and must be exceedingly well done up, but it is difficult to see how it is done. She looks like Princess Victoria’s sister, the latter is plain, but has a pleasant smile, and I should say was very nice. She wanted Olga to get a shawl, for it was cold.
During the dinner, Olga felt very faint due to the heat and her condition and her legs trembled. She offered up a prayer, and immediately it was answered and she got all right.
The King made a few remarks to me and in saying good night, said he had been looking at Colleen and thought she looked so nice and asked me about her speed, etc. I told him how slow she was and I ought to have another, at which he laughed. We got away about 11.15. The King and Queen standing and shaking hands with every one.
Olga returned to Colleen and slept on board with the maid also.
11 July - Thursday
I received their Majesties this morning on landing and saw them off again after the Leopardstown Race. Seymour Fortescue told me the King wished to see me on board, so on board I went and ushered by Walsh into King’s Cabin, he said something about having had such a pleasant visit and said “I have made you a Member of the Third Class of the Victorian Order”, to which I replied “I am deeply grateful for the honour you have conferred upon me.” Shook hands and went out a C.V.O. i.e a Commander of the Victorian Order.
I am thankful the whole business is over.
It is only for my beloved Olga, I care for any honours, and also that it may give me more influence for good. Some day, if I am spared and God sees fit, I may get a K.C.B. and dear Olga be Lady King Hall.
12 July - Friday
H.M. Yacht left this morning at 4 am.
I motored up to the Shelbourne Hotel and picked up Olga and off to the Dentist, 59 Merrion Square. Motor went for West and brought him up to Kingstown and we then went to Vice Regal Lodge and wrote our names down in the book and took a turn round the Park, which is very pretty and then to the Exhibition, which we left at 5.30 pm and down to Kingstown, and on board Colleen at 8.15 pm.
Sailed after nurse, with Lou and Madge came on board, having come up from Queenstown.
TOUR OF DOWN AND ANTRIM COAST
13 July - Saturday
Arrived at Quinton after a pleasant passage and landed on the rocks at the port of the Castle. Nini, Rivers and Walter here.
14 July - Sunday
Went in motor to Church. Care less and less for the Church of England service.
15 July - Monday
Inspected Tara C.G. and W.S.S.
16 July - Tuesday
Went in Colleen and inspected Ardglass, Killough and Tyrella C.G.. Rivers with me.
17 July - Wednesday
Inspected Portaferry and Strangford C.G. and in the afternoon had a tea party on board Colleen. About 16 to tea, including Lady Bangor, and Kathleen Ward, all much pleased. Bangor not up to coming, he came on board in the morning and had a yarn with me. He is 79 and I find him rather changed. Feels Lord de Ros’ death, he was 80.
18 July - Thursday
Rivers accompanying me, I drove from Strangford to Downpatrick and took train for Dundrum and Newcastle where I inspected C.G. Stations.
19 July - Friday
Nini, Olga and I lunched at Castle Ward, and in the evening Rivers and I took ship in Colleen and sailed for Ballycastle.
20 July - Saturday
Inspected Ballygalley, Glenarm, Carnlough, Cushendall and Torr Head Stations, the latter a W.S.S. and very isolated, 8 miles over rough hilly roads from Ballycastle.
Crew of five men, 3 babies, 2 being twins, all born within an hour of each other and Doctor not present. Women of the Station delivered and did it uncommonly well.
Anchored at Ballycastle 6 pm.
21 July - Sunday
At Ballycastle. Landed for Church.
22 July - Monday
Weighed and inspected Port Ballintoy at 7.30 am. Nearly running on to a reef in doing so, but C.Guard hoisted “Running into danger” in time. On to Port Ballintrae and Port Rush, the latter a very large place. Good C.G. houses. Wind all gone, steamed back and inspected Port Muck at 7.30 pm.
23 July - Tuesday
Arrived at Quinton 5 am. Went ashore and at 8 pm embarked Olga and the children and sailed for Kingstown.
24 July - Wednesday
We all went up to the Exhibition.
25 July - Thursday
Olga and children left for Queenstown. I went on to the Vice Regal Lodge and had lunch there and arranged with their Ex’s about coming down on the 2nd September.
26 July - Friday
Left for Queenstown.
RETURN TO QUEENSTOWN
29 July - Monday
Day to be remembered. 21 years ago at 1.30 am lost for a time my dear father.
30 July - Tuesday
My dear little daughter had a merciful escape, trotting on the pony down hill, Floss stumbled and went on her knees, throwing Lou down. Most providentially, Keefe caught her and she only got a nasty shock and slight cut. Curiously enough I only heard from Curzon Howe this morning that his boy had had a nasty fall at Osborne and been unconscious 14 hours.
11 August - Sunday
Baldie’s birthday.
Been very busy the last week arranging with the Lord Mayor, Mr Long, Chairman of the Harbour Board and Mr Dwyer, High Sheriff of City, about the lunch which is to be given to their Ex’s in the D.Yard by the Citizens of Cork at which I am to preside.
300 to be asked including Lord Barrymore and Lady Barrymore, Colthursts, Bandons (who will be staying with us), FitzGeralds and others.
I am to propose the King’s health. There is a lot to arrange about the Stand for the Ceremony and the ceremonial etc.
Bowen-Colthurst came to see me and between us, we managed to reconcile the many opposing interests and bring Mr Long and Mr Dwyer into line.
Lady A. wrote me, they did not want anything to take place that would take away from the Queenstown and Ad. House Entertainments.
Lord Grenfell and General Hammersley came to tea on Friday the 9th. West returned on the 10th and staying here. Maurice Penrose FitzGerald son of P.F at Midleton been with us for a week, a most charming boy in every way.
Fraulein and Oonah Crosbie a girl of 12 from Ballyheige Castle, also stayed a week with us.
Olga still bothered with her old trouble poor dear.
14 August - Wednesday
My 57 birthday and thank God for His many and manifold mercies towards me. Olga better, I am thankful to say.
Played a game of croquet with Stevie and won.
21 August - Wednesday
Russell if spared would have been 53.
Last night, an extraordinary letter appeared in the evening paper signed by the Lord Mayor, stating that he did not intend taking any part in the Ceremony at the lengthening of the Dock at Haulbowline. At the time it came out, he was at Queenstown with the High Sheriff of the City, and Mr Long, making arrangements about the Lunch.
To day, I went up to Cork with Olga and Nini in the Barge, (Nini having arrived last night) and I saw Mr Long and Mr Dwyer, the High Sheriff, who were as much astounded as I was at the letter.
They had been trying to get hold of the Lord Mayor all day, but he had been spirited out of the way somewhere and no one could get hold of him. It was decided that Mr Long and Mr Dwyer should send a letter to the paper, and my telegram this morning to the Lord Mayor should be published.
I got into telephone communication with Bowen-Colthurst at Vice Regal Lodge and had a long conversation with him and we decided that if everything else went smooth, the lunch should go on, notwithstanding the fact that, the invitations had gone out and been out a week, in the name of the Lord Mayor with others.
We three had a great consultation together as to how far the L. Mayor’s letter would influence people and it was decided that Mr Dwyer and Mr Long should find out at once how matters stood.
That evening I saw Mr Long again and for some time was in conversation with the Vice Regal Lodge and it was decided to go on with the lunch and after some hours of telephoning on the part of the Secretary, Mr Home, my telegram was stopped from being published.
1 September - Sunday
Atlantic Fleet arrived at 7 am. Assheton Curzon-Howe came up to see me at 1 pm and I was very sorry to hear from him that he had just received a telegram informing him that his brother had suddenly died. He had only that morning received a letter from his brother Monty Curzon. Took him out for a walk, his son, an Osborne Cadet. accompanying us. Took shelter in C.Guard Office and had a long theological talk with my old friend Assheton
2 September - Monday
Called on Assheton who is off to England by Rosslare to-night. Funeral taking place on Wed. It appears he is next heir to the Perry Herrick property, after the son of Monty Curzon. He read me out the letter of his brother.
At 5 pm Their Excellencies arrived from Fota. Delighted to see us, and as they said, occupy their old rooms.
In the evening a large dinner party of 22 including the Bandons who are staying in the house, the Barrymores, Sir Gilbert and Lady Parker, who came down with the Aberdeens. He is a great writer and also MP for Gravesend.
His Ex. took Olga in and I followed with her Ex. Sir Gilbert Parker sat next Olga and during the evening in the course of conversation told her he would give her a letter of introduction to Heinemann, the French publisher, for her French book. Several Captains dined also and the three suite, Capt. Hore-Ruthven, staying in the house and Capt. Coates and Bowen-Colthurst.
After dinner, His Ex. and I went down to the Band Promenade where he had a great reception and we stayed there about twenty minutes. His Ex. speaking a few words. The Fleet were illuminated and looked very well. Much fireworks and great crowds.
Dinner went off very well. Olga looked very distinguished and is such a good hostess. Nini has been a great help and I do not know what we should have done without her.
Mrs Neville Grenville went over to Cork Beg in Steamboat and brought back a large amount of flowers, which the FitzGeralds kindly sent and Mrs N. G. kindly stayed for a couple of hours assisting to arrange the flowers. They are such kind people.
3 September - Tuesday
The morning broke fine but alas just as we commenced to drive down to the Promenade Quay it came on to rain. Before going down, Her Ex. and I accompanied by Capt. Coates A.D.C. went to the Convent of our Lady and saw all the children at School in the different class rooms. Some hundreds of Scholars of all ages. In one room, Kathleen O’Brien and two other children recited some Irish verses and then in English. I was much struck with the excellent methods used for training the children principally by the Eye. Dr Browne, the Bishop of Cloyne shewed us over together with the Rev.d Mother.
I noticed a large number of pictures of the Virgin Mary about, few of the Saviour.
From the Convent Schools, we went to the Queenstown General Hospital and met there by Savage French and others.
At the Promenade Quay, the Urban Council met us and presented an address to His Ex. who made a capital address.
We then proceeded to the D.Yard in the rain, were met by the Captains of the Fleet and the High Sheriff of the County, Colonel Cooke-Collis. Lord Bandon, the Lord Lieut of the County, accompanying us. As it was raining, the ladies, Olga, Nini and Lady Bandon went on to the stand. Then the Guard was inspected, the Captains presented. We all marched up to the Stand.
Their Ex’s were drawn in a landau by bluejackets of the Colleen to the Stand. I then presented D.Yard Officers and read out a short description of the D.Yard. The Stand was full of people, about 600, and a lot of others standing round the place. Lou presented a bouquet to Her Excellency, making a very pretty curtsey.
I then, in a loud voice so that everyone could hear, asked His Excellency to cut the first sod. His Ex. stepped out and cut two sods out of a square which had been prepared beforehand, and then on behalf of the Admiralty, I presented a very handsome silver Casket of beaten silver, containing two good [?] spoons with her initials on top of the handle of beaten silver. On the lid of the box an oval of enamelling, containing her initials and coronet in colours in a deep rich blue ground, engraved at corners, all designed by Olga, looked very handsome.
As it was still raining, I did not take their Ex’s to see the Brass Plate, but put them in the carriage and dragged by Bluejackets proceeded to the Naval Hospital which they went over.
At 2 o’c their Ex’s were dragged in the carriage to the Sail Loft where the luncheon was prepared at many tables. The Sail Loft was very well decorated with flags and about 350 sat down to lunch. One of the most representative gatherings that has ever taken place in Ireland. Four Bishops, 3 R.C. and 1 Protestant, Lords Barrymore and Bandon, with their wives, Sir Robert and Lady P-FitzGerald, Col Cooke-Collis, High Sheriff of County and other dignitaries. Representatives of every shade of opinion and religion were met together in friendly gathering.
On my giving a signal, a bugler sounded a ‘G ‘ and I rose up and proposed the King. Everyone rose and the toast was received with great enthusiasm. Then I called upon the High Sheriff of City, who proposed the Lord Lieut’s health, which was supported by Dr Browne, Lord Bishop of Cloynes (R.C.), and Dr Meade, L. Bishop of Cork, Protestant. The former most eloquent and spoke most touchingly of all that Lady A. had done for Ireland. I saw Lord A. wiping tears away from his eyes and I must say I felt affected also, for it was genuine and well deserved praise. Unfortunately he launched out into a kind of attack upon the Admiralty and spoke much too long.
Dr Meade the next speaker however made a most admirable speech and everything right. Then Lord Lieut’s health being drunk with much enthusiasm, and the King played. The L. L. got up and thanked the Citizens of Cork and referred to the gathering being so representative and thanked me. I got up and spoke a few words and led off with three hearty cheers from their Ex’s and this finished the lunch, which was very long and badly served. My advice not being taken viz; to have a cold collation.
We then took their Ex’s over to Ad. House, Olga having left the lunch a little earlier. Olga confided to me that the R.C. Bishop took a great deal too much wine and though he is by way of being a friend of ours, he turned to her on rising to make his speech and said “Now I am going to ruin you” smiling in a most curious way. There is no doubt that he had taken too much to drink.
The weather having now turned out fine, about 700 people came to the Garden Party, but the rain not having stopped until 4 pm kept a good many people away. The Aberdeen’s walked round, talking to a good many people. I accompanying Her Ex.
In the evening we had a dinner party of 22, including the Bandons, Longs, Dwyers, Admiral Jellicoe and some of the Captains. Everything went off very well, thanks to Olga’s thinking everything out so well. Olga has had a great many things to arrange, but there has not been a single hitch of any kind. Dinner Parties of 22 and at least 20 - 22 in the Servants’ Hall each day.
During the lunch, His Ex. made up his speech, making notes and taking suggestions now and then from Her Ex. They both treated me with great confidence and consulted me on several points, what to allude to, and what not to allude to. I saw then that his speeches are really his own but of course like every wise husband, not above receiving valuable help from a clever wife, as I have done over and over again from my dear Olga, both in speaking and in writing.
The Fleet looked most beautiful illuminated, and as the night was very fine, they were a most striking object.
4 September - Wednesday
Their Ex’s left at 7.15 am. I accompanied them down to the Station and Band played St Patrick’s Day and Auld Lang Syne. They were much touched and before they left Ad. House, thanked us so much for all our hospitality and kindness.
Nini was indeed a great help, arranging things and assisting Olga to entertain and Lady Barrymore and Lady Bandon took a great fancy to her.
6 September - Friday
Bertie and Mabel arrived by the Rosslare Route. The latter very done up. Nini and I went for ½ an hour to the Subscription dance at the Tin House.
7 September - Saturday
Bertie and Mabel enjoyed going out in Barge. Very devoted to each other.
8 September - Sunday
Assheton Curzon returned. Came up and had tea with us and other Officers came up.
9 September - Monday
The two Miss Masseys, Lady Clarina’s daughters, came over from Limerick to stay with us a few days. We all lunched on board the Albermarle with Jellicoe and stayed for the Regatta.
10 September - Tuesday
We had a most successful dance to about 70 people from 9.30 until 1.30. Every one thoroughly enjoyed it. Olga looked so well and did the part of hostess as she always does. Everything was good and all in great spirits and profuse in their thanks.
11 September - Wednesday
The Albion gave a dance from 9 until 12. I took the Massey girls off to it, Nini having left for Quinton and Wynyard Park (Londonderry).
12 September - Thursday
Fleet left at 7 am. My Band played them out, Irish Airs. Turning round, found the two Massey girls alongside me on the balcony, in their dressing gowns and hair down, full of fun and enjoying the scene. A lovely morning and ships steaming past at our feet.
The two girls left for Limerick, very nice bright girls.
A relief to have a rest from all this whirl of events.
18 September - Wednesday
During the past week paid visits to the Barrymores at Fota and FitzGeralds at Cork Beg. Bertie and Mabel left for London, staying at Waterford the night on board the Colleen, which I had sent there for that purpose. They had much enjoyed their visit.
Received two letters from His Ex., one for publication, and the other he told me he had written to the King, mentioning how well everything had gone off and that it was due to me. He had told me he intended doing this, the evening before he left Admiralty House, on the stairs, and I said, after thanking him for the kind thought, not to do so, as I had done nothing out of the way.
His Ex. consulted me, whether it would be advisable to mention at the lunch, that the Govt. were determined to enforce the law against cattle driving, etc but I advised his not doing so, as it might mar the cordiality of the gathering, but suggested his doing so at Waterford next day, on his way across, which he did. Bowen-Colthurst arranging for some one to make up a deputation to meet him at Railway Station.
Lady A. asked me about Olga’s book and Sir Gilbert Parker, MP for Gravesend has given her an introduction to Heinemann, the French publisher. Lady A. takes a great interest in Olga’s book.
Lord A. at lunch consulted me about mentioning in his speech that he would send a telegram to the King from the lunch table, but we asked High Sheriff of City about it, and he thought it better not, more especially as the King’s health had been drunk so enthusiastically, so Lord A. only mentioned that the King had made a point of the Ex’s coming down to the ceremony.
An amusing episode occurred during the L.L’s speech. Mr Long had scribbled on back of a card and passed to me - “Time is late, no more speeches!!” in reference to one I was to propose, viz. health of citizens of Cork and Long was to reply to. During Lord A’s speech I whispered to Lady A. that His Ex. should allude to Colonel Cooke-Collis, who had specially come down as High Sheriff of County to attend ceremony.
Lady A. took hold of card Long had scribbled on, wrote on the other side words to this effect. I tugged at Lord A’s coat and eventually passed the card into his hand. After a time he looked at it and to our horror, read the words Long had written to me and he alluded to it by a facetious story. At last Lady A. and I managed to get him to look at the other side and this put matters right, but for five minutes the unfortunate man thought that he had been told to cut his speech short.
We both feel that the A’s are such nice people, he is a most thorough X.tian gentleman and I think they are as fond of us as we are of them. They have an aim in life which so few people have.
20 September - Friday
Left with Olga, nurse and Madge for Youghal and got on board Colleen 4 pm.
I landed and called on Sir Henry and Lady Blake, old acquaintances at Hong Kong.
21 September - Saturday
Visited the old Church, full of old monuments and most interesting in every way. A very ancient building, the tomb of the 1st Earl of Cork very quaint and interesting, erected by himself in his lifetime. Olga saw in it, a tomb of the Smiths, one of them was an ancestor of hers some 200 years ago. Sir Richard Smith who married a sister of the first Earl of Cork.
The afternoon being so fine, Olga and I sailed up the Blackwater in the galley, a lovely afternoon and much enjoyed the scenery. We had tea at Ballynatray, 4 miles up, with the Holroyd Smiths. A very large mansion on the banks of the river. Got a tow down by the passenger steamer.
22 September - Sunday
Olga and I lunched with Sir Henry and Lady Blake at Myrtle Grove, once Sir Walter Raleigh’s House. They shewed us all over it. Two very fine carved Italian Chimney pieces, quite perfect. All the rooms wainscotted.
The house is, I believe, a perfect example of Elizabethan Mansion. The Blakes are spending a lot of money on the place, and have a most valuable collection of articles, collected during the forty years that he has been Governor at various places.
A party from Ballynatray came to tea on board the Colleen.
23 September - Monday
Olga and all of us returned to Queenstown, the motor meeting us at Carrigtohill.
24 September - Tuesday
Alarmed at getting a telegram that Baldie had a septic throat, however after various telegrams found it was not very serious, so decided to send Colleen off to Galway.
TOUR OF GALWAY AND SLIGO COAST
25 September - Wednesday
Captain Hoskyns arrived to stay at Ad. House. I left by motor for Galway, intending to stop at Limerick for the night, but taking tea at Elm Park. Lady Clarina asked me to stay there, which I did. Miss Zoe laid up with a bad ankle. Very hospitable.
26 September - Thursday
My beloved saintly mother was born this day in 1826, would have been 81 if she had been spared us.
Left Elm Park at 8.30 am. Lady Clarina and Miss Susie coming down to give me breakfast. Very charming people. I am sorry Lord Clarina has had to go to Dublin, his sister being so seriously ill.
2.30 pm arrived at Galway, embarked on board and moved over to Ballyvaughan and inspected C.G. Station. Returned to Galway Harbour 7 pm.
27 September - Friday
Steamed out to Aran Islands, but found too much wind from the N.E. to land, so went over to Costello in the Far Connaught Country and inspected Costello, returning to Galway.
Landed and inspected Renmore C.G. station and then had a look round the town, seeing everything of interest, the old Church, and the window from which Judge Lynch hung his son and inscription underneath.
Then accompanied by Lieut Glossop, went through the Claddagh and had a talk with some of the fishermen.
28 September - Saturday
Left Colleen at 6.30 am. Made B.fst for self and Hunter at 7 am in Drill Shed, Renmore, and started in motor at 8 am for Roundstone, Bunowen, and Clifden.
Some parts of the road very good and some shocking, cutting my tyres badly and one puncture which nearly did for me as I was 7 miles from Clifden and had several times to get tyre off and on.
It was a most interesting run from Galway through Connemara, to Recess and Ballynahinch. Wild moor scenery, like the Highlands of Scotland, miles of sparsely populated country and lough after lough, forming a continuous chain, then at times through wooded roads. But not for long, and as we came along near the coast, a stony country, thickly populated, very small plots divided by walls, where people earn as much by the sea as from the land.
All traffic done by panniers on horses and donkeys. Passed a great number carrying peat. In some parts hardly a cart to be seen, at others, many small carts, most carrying peat.
Women all wearing thick flannel red petticoats, blue apron, bare feet and bare head, and many of the girls very handsome. Men a fine lot.
Altogether a most interesting day’s run, only spoilt by the knowledge that half the distance run, the tyres were being cruelly cut and the roads like a switch back. Joined Colleen at Clifden on my arrival.
29 September - Sunday
Landed, walked up to Church, 2½ miles. Not much struck with the service or sermon. Had lunch with Lieut Weigall, D.O. Mrs Weigall nice little thing, three young children. They came to tea with me on board Colleen. A sudden thick fog came down.
30 September - Monday
Drove in carriage 37 miles, and inspected Cleggan and Tully C.G. Stations. Lieut Weigall with me. I wrote to the Manager of Marconi’s W/T at Clifden asking for permission to visit their station. The Manager sent a reply that he had wired for permission, but no answer had come.
1 October - Tuesday
Raining hard and blowing from the S.E. Left in motor for Westport and Rosmoney. Caught it badly on the moors and could not keep rain out. Admired Kylemore Castle, the Duke of Manchester’s place on Kylemore Lake and the valley itself very striking with mountains each side, shrouded in gloom and rain, whilst the hedges were composed for miles of fuscia trees, rather than bushes, all in the full bloom of their luxuriance and beauty.
Stopped at the Leenane Hotel, in Killary Bay, intending to buy some hand spun flannel, but found artificial dyes were used and not natural, so did not purchase anything.
Season at Hotel closed this day. I passed a long char-a-banc, full of visitors on their 20 miles to Westport, vainly endeavouring to shelter themselves from the driving rain.
Arrived at Westport 2 pm and was not allowed to go through the Marquis of Sligo’s demesne, as he has barred motors, so the old gatekeeper, a pensioned C.G. man and old stationmate of my father’s, told me. So had to make a long detour to Rosmoney C.G. Station which I inspected, in most excellent order and then embarked on Colleen.
2 October - Wednesday
Blowing a fierce gale from the Westward, since midnight and no signs of it going down. Unable to land, sea too bad, so remain a prisoner on board and study the Report on the Reorganisation of the C.Guard.
3 October - Thursday
Heard of wreck Leon off Seafield, 19 men in the rigging.
Many telegrams received and sent. Arrogant left Berehaven for wreck. Colleen left also. I motored to Newport and took the train to Achill Sound. Met Carriage and drove to Achill Beg C.G.. 7 miles each way, and then on to Bulls Mouth, 12 miles, and then on to Doogort, about 6 to 7 miles, where I put up at the Slievemore Hotel for the night.
Telegram received. Work of rescue going on from the French Ship.
4 October - Friday
Drove to Keem and walked 2 miles on mountain side to W.S.S., the Coast Guard very isolated, cannot send the children to school, the road is so bad, and dangerous. Returned to Keel C.G. Station with Div. S.O., Mr Garter, whose wife made a cup of cocoa and we had a very pleasant conversation together on the love of the Lord Jesus Christ.
Arrived at Achill Sound and had tea at the Post Office. A family, many in the Navy. Children of an ex C.G. man from Devon. The widow living there, one son a C.B.C. at East Ferry. The Postmaster another son. I should think a Christian family.
Arrived at Westport 6 pm. Went to the Railway Hotel, dirty and food execrable.
5 October - Saturday
Glad to get telegram, all hands saved from the wreck, C.G. men and fishermen behaved most heroically.
Sent a telegram to Mayor of Limerick, in reply to his wire to Milltown Malbay. Not a soul lost, though a very heavy sea running.
Motor came up from Rosmoney C.G. and started off for Galway going past Killary Bay and through the heart of the Joyce Country, Connemara. Raining part of the time.
Arrived 2 pm Galway and embarked on board Colleen. She had had a bad time running down to the wreck and nearly pooped.
6 October - Sunday
Raining. I had the Officers and Protestant members of the crew, about 9, down in my Cabin and read 103 Ps and prayers. I trust the words were profitable to all of us.
Mails came on board. Nini’s let for Quinton Castle fallen through.
VISIT ARAN ISLANDS
7 October - Monday
Left Galway 5.30 am and arrived at South Aran at 8 am. Landed in a Corragh manned by C.G. men and hardly got wet at all in the surf. Wonderful little boats, made of battens, covered with tarred canvass. High uplifting stern and square stern, flat bottomed. 3 pairs of so called oars (very little blade).
Much interested at hearing of all the superstitious practices and fears of the Islanders. Won’t go out after dark. Inspected the School, the Schoolmaster a very intelligent man (£120 a year) shewed me the reputed bed penitential of St Cabins, in a hollow in the midst of a sand heap. Twice every year, it is cleared out and the Islanders who have anything the matter with them, or wish for anything, sleep in the bed and all round in the surrounding ground. More than 100 at times. A custom in this island is they go to one another’s houses and stay all night, drying round the fire, first having a piper over, to play and they dance jigs, etc.
One day in May, they have fires, to burn Protestant bones. The C.G. man knew this from the fact that one of the young men came and asked for coal (C.C. men only have coal) and when asked the reason, stated it. I fancy it is something like Guy Fawkes day used to be with us.
Irish is the universal tongue. In fact the people are bilingual. The Schoolmaster told me he was not very keen about it. Taught it ½ hour, twice a week.
A great deal of sand about. I moved on to North Aran at 10 am and after inspecting the C.G.’d took a car and first drove out to the W.S.S. and then on to the remarkable fort of Dun Aengus and then inspected the ruins of the seven Churches and also one at Kilmurvey.
The fort of Dun Aengus most interesting and fully bears out the remarks by Petrie in Murray’s Hand Book that “it is the most magnificent barbaric monument now extant in Europe.”
[Plan of fort]
Some ancient tombstones with Keltic Crosses at the 7 Churches. I made out 6 Churches or ruins of them, all standing in an area. Some E and W, others N and S, orientation different.
Took Hunter (Chauffeur) with me, as he is very intelligent and interested in all these things and admires scenery and appreciative of anything historical.
On my return, picked up the Surgeon and Agent, Dr O’Brien and his little girl of 6. He has 11 children, some gone abroad, all doing well. Called on Mr Lennon at the Vicarage, never saw such a dilapidated place, in perfect disorder and absolutely falling to pieces. His only congregation are the C.G. men and families and one family outside. Then called on Father Flaherty, who took me to his house. I fancy he is well to do. I heard from my men that he gets a lot of money out of them, in fact he is an autocrat amongst them and I imagine does not do much to dispel the ignorant superstition of the Islanders, which gives him so much power.
There are 7 men in the small (Irish Aran) Island belonging to the service. 3 Leading Stokers and 4 Seamen. 6 men have been in R.N.R.
Constabulary is popular for recruiting but not Army or Navy. About 72 families in South Island, 500 people. Same in Middle Island and about 2000 in North Aran.
The Schoolmaster at N. Aran where C.G. children go, teaches Irish 1 hour every day and I could see was an out and out Nationalist from the way he talked to me.
No rents have been paid for the last two years. The Islands are mainly in the hands of Trustees, Lord Ardilaun one of the principals, Priests told me. Trustees asked 24 years purchase, Islanders offered 18.
Clergyman told me rents were low.
8 October - Tuesday
Motored to Clarina through Limerick, about 70 miles from Galway. Found the girls at home. Lord and Lady Clarina arrived at 8.30 pm from Dublin. Roads dreadful.