HMS LORD WARDEN I -Pt 1

[Wooden broadside ironclad]

1870

AT PORTSMOUTH

14 August – Sunday

At the age of twenty, I begin for the first time in my life a journal. I do so because it becomes at times a most useful thing to refer back to for events which otherwise one would have forgotten. Also, it helps to form ideas, and gives power of writing, thinking, etc. etc.

13 August – Saturday

Joined Duke of Wellington, as I am going, or hope to go in Narcissus in new Flying Squadron.

16 August - Tuesday

Came home on six weeks leave. Heard of terrible misfortune out at Halifax. Got an invitation to Captain Fowler’s in Berks. So on next page, I begin my every day journal.

30 August - Tuesday

Forenoon. Went in with my father into the Admiralty and got my appointment to Minotaur cancelled. Afternoon. Went to Marylebone baths with Russell. Wrote Robbie a few lines.

31 August - Wednesday

Started in the afternoon for Crookham End. (Capt. Fowler’s). Arrived down there in the evening. Met by Capt. Fowler and family, with a Miss du Merique. They had been out to an archery and croquet meeting.

1 September – Thursday

In afternoon went with ladies to play croquet.

2 September – Friday

Went to see Aldermaston Park belonging to Mr Burr. It is a most beautiful Park at our place in the grounds, from a nice little glade, four magnificent avenues of trees branch off, of oak, elm, lime and ash respectively. It is a sight worth seeing, and not often seen. The oak trees in the Park are some of them upwards of 800 years old; they look so majestic and truly grand, even with the tempests, they still stand upright, and unbending. We also saw a drove of deer, and frightened them, so as to see them scamper off. They looked pretty jumping.

3 September – Saturday

Went out for a walk and thoroughly enjoyed being in the country, everything being so pretty and quiet. We went down (Mrs. Fowler, Misses Fowler, Miss du Merique and myself) to the river Kennet, which is very pretty, winding about and very clear.

4 September - Sunday

Went to Brimpton Church, a neat small church built at a cost of £6,000, very pretty inside. Did not stay to the Holy Communion. I felt I was far from fit. In the afternoon, went to Midgham church, also very pretty and very similar to Brimpton Church. Built by a Mr Green at a cost of £6,000.

5 September – Monday

Rained all day. In the afternoon went with Capt. Fowler to Mr Tull’s House, and had a game of billiards.

Loss of Captain; sudden and dreadful accident. Poor Mrs Burgoyne loses a husband and brother. Captain Burgoyne being one of the finest seamen in the Navy. Charlie Walker having just passed into the Army, was making a trip with his brother-in-law and was like a brother to Meta. It has sent a shock to the whole nation, more especially the Navy. I have lost no friends in her, but many acquaintances; but although not friends, they are my brother officers.

10 September – Saturday

The papers had the loss of Captain in them. My father went down to Mrs Burgoyne at Ryde, telegraphed to say she was calm and resigned. Poor Mrs Burgoyne. She hardly realises it yet. In the evening papers, saw eighteen men were saved. Very thankful to hear it, for it would have been very dreadful not knowing anything about her, the cause of the foundering etc. Went to meet my father at Kensington; train 35 minutes late.

11 September – Sunday

My father went into Admiralty, to gain any further news about Captain. Heard a capital sermon at St James by Rev. Mr xxx. My father came back with copy of Admiral Milne’s despatch, very evident none but the eighteen are saved. It is indeed a most appalling catastrophe.

Had some singing. James Hall came in [PAGE5110]. Had a rattling tea. Went to St James in the evening. Walked back with Grandmama, and went with my father to James’ lodgings. My father related in a most amusing way his flirtations and love affairs, preparatory to the last and final one, in which he was settled. James laughed much, but he broods too much over his affair with the fair and fickle Elise. The thing is he has an appetite on him, like a young bull. Wish Henry Mandeville would drop me a few lines, saying how he is.

12 September – Monday

Received a letter from Annie. I think she is engaged. In the evening had a walk with James, most curious fellow; told me to choose my own present to be given by him. I of course protested against his giving me one; it put me in an awkward position. Heard from Mandeville, such a nice letter. Wrote Mandeville in the morning and Symonds (photos).

13 September – Tuesday

Received a letter from Symonds and read the accounts given by the survivors of the Captain. It is in truth a horrible disaster, such as has rarely been witnessed. Wrote Captain Fowler.

14 September – Wednesday

Went into the City about an advertisement. Had a look at Traitor’s Heads, stuck on top of it. One fancies it should be adorned with them in keeping with the place. Had a walk with James in the evening, out to Hammersmith, chaffed him a good deal about the fair Elise. Aunt Fanny paid us a visit.

15 September – Thursday

Heard from Annie (nice letter). Went into US club and got my violin from Oxford Street. In the afternoon drove in with James into Jermyn Street, walked to Sadlers Wells Theatre; very small one, a good stage. Came back by Underground Railway. Wrote Symonds. Received pay ticket £6.0.0

17 September – Saturday

Paid a visit to Mr Williams, Hyde Park. Did some canoeing on Serpentine with Russell. In the afternoon, James, Russie and I went to British Museum, found it closed, which was a great sell. Proceeded on to the Zoological Gardens, made a capital dinner there. Russie and James went to the Princess’s Theatre. I walked home (1 hr 20 m).

18 September – Sunday

Went to St James Church (both morning and evening).

19 September – Monday

Received a nice letter from Captain Goodenough and Keble’s Hymns from Captain Fowler. Walked into the U.S. Club.

Had lunch and paid the British Museum a visit; walked back with my father. No news at the Admiralty about the Narcissus. My father met Lord John Hay. They had a talk about China –disagreeing; the former advocating the use of keeping a large squadron out there, the latter opposing the idea. In the evening had a talk with Henry Bothamley.

20 September – Tuesday

Wrote Captains Goodenough and Fowler, Lieut Wilmot and De Hoghton and Annie Tornay.

21 September – Wednesday

Went with my parents calling at Mrs Jose and Lady Smith, who was the wife of Sir Harry Smith. She originally came from Badajoz, and when the soldiery sacked the place, she hid in an oven and was rescued and taken care of by Sir Harry. There is a yarn of several officers casting lots for her, being only 14 years of age, or not quite so much. She was a most beautiful girl and accompanied her husband through the campaign. She related the difference between the two sieges of Badajoz, having been in both; first by the French, then by the English, and the latter behaved like demons, in consequence of the prolonged resistance and bloody assault. She is a dear old lady. She was married at the age of 14 years and is now 72 years of age. Sir Harry died 10 years ago.

22 September – Thursday

Went into the city with my father; made arrangements about my insuring my life. Wrote Mandeville and Wilmot.

23 September – Friday

Went into the office of the UK Provident Insurance Co – examined by doctor Mitchell, who was most kind to me; spoke to me about attending the Lord’s Table. Found I had very good lungs; blew up 214 cubic inches. Walked to the British Museum, met James, nearly two hours late. Went over the Museum (James very prosy). Walked out to Notting Hill.

24 September – Saturday

Paid a visit to the Tower of London, meeting Henry Bothamley and James there. As usual James wanted to write a note which delayed us all, and led to a little row between Henry and the beef-eating warder. Went all over the Tower. Mr Hughes, the Chief Warder, showing us over Lord de Ros’s apartments. James, although 17 stone 4 lbs, not able (so he said) to stand the musty smell of the underground cells.

Henry Bothamley then asked us to dine with him, which we did at Crosby Hall an old palace of Richard the 3rd. It has a splendid banqueting Hall, a Council Chamber, made a moderate lunch. One thing I liked so much was, there being instead of greasy waiters, waitresses, which was much nicer and cleaner; besides lending a charm to the whole place, as the fair sex usually do. They (the waitresses) are as a rule good-looking at this place. Crosby Hall has seen a good many vicissitudes of fortune, being hundreds of years old.

Went over the Guildhall, a splendid building; has a very fine window at each end and a gigantic figure of Gog and Magog at one end on a pedestal. There are monuments to Nelson, Wellington and the two Pitts. Nelson being the finest, it having in relief at the foot, two fine specimens of blue jackets at the foot with chest bare; one with a sponge and hammer in his hand, and the other preparing to heave the lead.

Proceeded to Austin Friars Church, 600 years old, has belonged to the Dutch Congregational Church for 300 years; very light inside and airy, clean looking. It has lately been restored. I should have added that the roof of the Guildhall is unsurpassed, save by Westminster. Walked home.

25 September – Sunday

Went to St James Church, both morning and evening. Cousin Henrietta paid us a visit, having left Versailles about 3 weeks ago.

26 September – Monday

My beloved Mother’s birthday. Went with Meta in the afternoon and called at Lady Smith, with the intention of asking for Sir Harry Smith’s carte-de-visite. Unfortunately she was out. In the evening, Aunt Fanny, Grandmama, and James came and had a very pleasant evening, dancing, singing, and music. Mama had some handsome presents. My father gave a valuable one.

27 September – Tuesday

Went out for a walk in the afternoon, with my beloved Mother etc. dined in the evening at Aunt Fanny’s with Meta and Russie.

28 September – Wednesday

My six weeks leave being up, I returned by the 1.54 pm train from Kensington, arrived a little after 5.00 pm. Came straight on board The Duke, found several old ships.

29 September – Thursday

Attended the Court Martial in the forenoon; admired the way in which Sir A. Milne answered all questions. Capt. D’O. D’A. Aplin gave Capt. Rice a complete shutter up. Capt. Rice asked him this question:–

“Under what sail, would the Inconstant have capsized, on the night of September 6th?”,

– or words to that effect.

Capt. Aplin answered, “under no sail that a seaman would carry.”

So Capt. Rice asked no further questions. I don’t suppose there could be formed a better court. Sir James Hope, President. Adm. Yelverton, Captains Goodenough and Brandreth, being of the court.

Went ashore in the afternoon, had an interview with my outfitter, Guy & Eames, who did not seem at all to relish the laudable idea of mine, viz: paying my own debts, but still it must be done since the calamitous affair of my grandfather. One good thing is, my life is worth £100.

30 September – Friday

Attended the Court Martial the forenoon, very interesting. Sir James Hope makes a capital president. Received a letter from Henry, giving me advice and direction, that I could be like him in spirit and my heart changed as his is. Paid my outfitter the magnificent sum of £2 sterling and forthwith tried on and ordered a cocked hat £4.1.0. Struck a jacket off the bill. Paid for my glass having been repaired.

1 October – Saturday

Attended the Court this morning; very interesting. Struck me that Captains May and Rice got out of their depth in some of the questions they asked Messrs. Barnes and Barnaby. Some were ridiculously silly, if I may use the term. The three best heads there are Sir J. Hope and Captains Brandreth and Goodenough.

In the afternoon went ashore. Saw several old College friends etc. Paid Lily a hasty visit, promised to come another day and stay longer. Then proceeded to see Mrs Parkin, found Miss de Glaves only at home; had a chat with her, and then I strolled to Southsea Pier in company with Bearcroft and heard the band of the R.M.S.I. Was disappointed, perhaps not good pieces. Strolled about with A.. Willoughby; walked into Portsmouth with Lieut Russell, promised to dine with him on Monday. Aboard the Excellent invested in a few of the new postcards. Want of money is a great nuisance. I feel very unsettled and would wish to go abroad at once; some inexpensive station and ship.

Expect my appointment to the Lord Warden every day.

2 October – Sunday

Attended Divine Service aboard. A very good sermon. In the evening attended the Circus Church. Mr Martin was not there. A very long sermon of a good hour.

3 October – Monday

Attended the Court Martial in the afternoon. Examination of Mr Reed, CM going on. He seems to have always thought Captain unsafe and unseaworthy.

Dined on board Excellent with Lieut Russell; had a game of billiards, and a smoke. Met several old shipmates at the Keppels Head.

Received my appointment to the Lord Warden in lieu of a Naval Cadet. Heard from my father.

4 October – Tuesday

Joined the Lord Warden, which is being completely refitted and repaired. She has a fine large Gunroom. Took my gear on board this hulk, that all the officers and crew are hulked in, viz: the Bellerophon. Found several old shipmates belonging to Lord Warden. Took on duty aboard the ship.

5 October – Wednesday

Was on board the ship, on duty from 8.30 to 4.30 pm and from 9.0 pm to 7.0 am Oct 6th. Learnt a good deal seeing gear fitted etc. Had a yarn with Jackson, Gun’r Jack. Found he was an old Calcutta; he told me he went by the name of ‘Jack’s dog’. I have heard a good deal about him from my father. I think I shall like the ship very much; there seems to be a nice lot of officers belonging to her. In the evening dined with Jimmy Haye at the College; paid a visit to Tommy McGill. Returned to the Lord Warden at 9.0 pm. Caulked it out on a broken down sofa. Lots of rats for companions.

6 October – Thursday

Lots of work all day and night does not bring a spell, for I had to rough it out again, as best I could, with plenty of rats as companions.

7 October – Friday

Had a letter from James, and also a splendid pair of binoculars; they are the best, without exception, I have seen for a long while. Heard from Russie.

8 October – Saturday

Had a slight ruffle with Commander, as I particularly wished to see James off from Southampton at 2 pm in the Pera, but I could not manage it without offending the Commander, which would be very impolitic, especially at the beginning of a commission, so I bade farewell to James in a long telegram.

Heard from my father. The Lord Warden came out of dock, into the steam basin. Wrote home.

9 October – Sunday

Officer of watch on board Lord Warden, so could not attend Divine Service. In the evening attended at the Circus Church; annoyed very much by a couple of squeaking children, squawking at intervals, making me the medium of passing lozenges, etc.

10 October – Monday

On board the ship all day at work. Heard from Russie.

11 October – Tuesday

On board the ship at work all day. Wrote Russie, Lily, Home, Wilmot, Frances.

12 October – Wednesday

Part of the day on board ship. Had a talk with Admiral Yelverton. He was very agreeable and kind.

13, 14, & 15 October

Killed time aboard the ship, coaling all the time. On the 14th witnessed a review on Portsmouth Hills, by HRH Duke of Cambridge.

14 October – Friday

Spent as usual on board the ship. Heard from Eardley-Wilmot. I was deeply grieved at hearing from him of the unsatisfactory state of his mind, or rather speaking spiritually of his heart. I can sympathise very much with him, as I have often felt the same as he poor fellow describes himself as being in. I gave him what little comfort I could.

16 October – Sunday

Sunday, it being the first I have spent without being able to go to Church at least once during the day.

16 – 19 October

Engaged on board the ship in one way and another, being mate of the Upper Deck. Hauled off to the hulk, last night (18th). Dined on board the Minotaur at a dinner given by the Gun Room Officers to old shipmates. I met a good many old friends; came away early.

20 –21 October

Nothing of interest having occurred. I don’t keep up the diary daily. Had a nice letter from Henry M..

22 October – Saturday

Lots of work, it being Saturday, and I being Mate of the Upper Deck. A billet which I like very much, and intend doing my best on, as it is greatly to my interest; if for no other purpose, to pull well with the Commander, who is rather ticklish to deal with. He seems decided, which is something for him, for although I admire it in any one, whether good or bad.

Capt. Brandreth, I should think, wasted as few words as anyone living. I have been told this as a fact by the person concerned, who being sentenced to lose three months time for a punishment, was told by him his sentence in these words, viz: “Break rules – Suffer – Three months time.” But what he does say is always to the point.

23 October – Sunday

Heard from Home. Admiral Yelverton very kind. He promised to make me if possible. Unable to attend Service. Boisterous and unpropitious weather preventing landing Church Party. Wrote Henry a long letter.

25 October – Tuesday

Turned over to the Lord Warden. Lots of work as usual.

27 October – Thursday

Asked the Commander for four days leave. He refused me it on the plea that it was too late, and that he could not spare me which very much disgusted me, as I had set my mind on going to say good-bye to all. I could not get three days, but got leave from Saturday evening.

28 October – Friday

The ship is getting some sort of order and cleanliness, I am glad to say. I like the billet of Mate of the Upper Deck, lots of employment. Had a slight tiff with Charles P... got appointed to the 2nd Launch. Wrote to Eardley-Wilmot.

29 October – Saturday

In the afternoon asked leave till Monday from the Commander who would only grant me till Monday morning, so I went up to Town by the 5 o’clock train, got home about nine o’clock and found all well.

30 October – Sunday

Attended Divine Service at St James. The afternoon being taken up by Capt. Heath, much to my annoyance and disgust, as I wanted a little quiet talk the last afternoon. Started off at 6 o’clock, Russie leading us through miry and swampy fields and paths. Found Jackson was going down by the same train, meeting him at Clapham Junction. Had some tiff at the Nut. Came on board.

31 October – Monday

Wrote Meta and Robbie. The Upper Deck is no sinecure billet to hold, don’t care much for the Commander, should think he had not the best of tempers.

3 November – Thursday

The ship came out to Spithead. I like the billet of Mate of Upper Deck very much. I had a nice letter from Mandeville yesterday and from which I gained great consolation and comfort.

4 November – Friday

Find it hard work to keep the Upper Deck in good order. Wrote many letters.

DEPART PORTSMOUTH

6 November – Sunday

Sailed yesterday from Spithead; Miss Barbara Yelverton accompanying her father. I have not seen her sufficiently yet to form any idea of her looks, (whether pretty or not).

My deck today was in a most filthy state owing to the steaming, which blacked everything as fast as it was cleaned. However, I hope I shall get it into better order soon. I attended Divine Service. Did not care for the sermon generally speaking, too much like a professor giving a lecture. However, there were several things that imparted instruction. I am sorry to hear from several WRO that he drinks rather freely. I hope there will be a voluntary Evening Service.

I’m glad to say all my debts except my two outfitters are paid, and I hope soon sensibly to reduce them.

9 November – Wednesday

Rather a nasty sea against us; head wind etc.

10 November – Thursday

Rolling heavily. The ship is a very wet one; all three decks having been wet since last night. It seems to me we have a very inexperienced crew. They require so much driving about individually and the Lieuts seem wanting in experience. The Commander, I think is a smart fellow, and has a pretty strong will.

ARRIVE GIBRALTAR

13 November – Sunday

Alongside the New Mole. Went in the evening to the Cathedral, attending Divine Service; I thought it a very bad building for hearing distinctly what was said. ......[words missing] our English Cathedrals have, which gave them such a venerated and solemn appearance. But it is not at all a bad sized building for Gib.

After Service, called at General Bisset’s. Found Uncle George was over at Tangiers, so after getting, or rather stealing, a 6d. stamp off the General and refusing to dine, I took my departure. Wrote to my father.

16 November – Wednesday

Asked the Commander leave for the afternoon in full expectation of getting a surly refusal; was agreeably surprised by receiving a very civil answer granting me leave, so off I went with James – went shopping. We invested in photographs of the Rock and views of a bull-fight etc. Met McGillicuddy and Edwardes, who told me they had ordered a horse for me, so off we all three went. My nag being a very good one.

We had a splendid gallop on the sands and in riding through a village on the way to San Roche, we rode through a flock of sheep accidentally, in which McGillicuddy’s horse doubled up. We rode away with all speed as none of the sheep were hurt, and the natives were not very friendly, as we soon saw, for as we were galloping past a couple of muleteers, one of them up stick and aimed a tremendous blow at McGillicuddy’s head which luckily he missed.

I thought we should meet him again on our way back, so we continued on and arrived at San Roche, where we picked up five other fellows.

So as we had not much time left, we started back, and on our way back, we met the two muleteers, and I tried to hit him, but missed, on which he jumped off and I’m ashamed to say we all scampered off, not through being afraid of them, I feel sure, but simply not wanting to have a row with the fellows.

On the road back, Hock in trying to make his horse jump, got thrown off by his horse rearing and lay insensible, which rather put me in a funk, but dismounting and bathing him with water, he soon got all right again, and we continued on our road.

Before coming off the neutral ground we all had a race round the Race Course, in which I came in almost neck and neck with Stack, beating him if anything.

Saw Uncle George.

DEPART GIBRALTAR

17 November – Thursday

The Cerberus arrived in. She looks a most curious craft, her hull having bulwarks built up gives her the appearance of a merchant steamer, and again the mast and spars makes her have somewhat the appearance of a man-of-war.

Sailed this day for Malta. The Eastern side of the Rock has the appearance of a Lion Couchant, Europa Point forming its paws and neutral ground its tail. A great many sail in sight. The Choir had a practice in the Admiral’s Fore Cabin.

20 November – Sunday

Had Divine Service, the singing and chanting was very fair considering it was the first trial. I do not like Wilson’s Sermons at all. He gives one the idea of not having his heart in his work.

Passed Algiers this afternoon, about 4 miles off. It is a good-sized town, built on the brow of a hill, and coming down to the water’s edge, defended by batteries. The houses all being white, it appeared somewhat like a mass of white sandstorm. There were 3 or 4 French men-of-war there, apparently all ready for any German force.

ARRIVE MALTA

30 November – Wednesday

Arrived at Malta last Thursday 24th. Went to the Opera in the evening, saw L’Africaine – more of the opera hereafter. Saw John ... liked it very much.

4 December – Sunday

I have just come from Evening Service held in the Garrison Chapel ashore – I liked it very much. The sermon was so simple and touching, the text taken from the Hebrews. There were a great many Sergeants there from the different regiments; no officers in uniform. Last night I went to the Opera and saw La Somnambula acted and sung. The Prima Donna’s name being Albani, she sings very nicely and prettily, and as she is only about 22, she will have a very fine voice indeed when she grows older. Also, there was a very good tenor. I wrote Annie a long letter. There is one thing I must try and obtain, viz: [words missing].

9 December – Friday

Heard from home by the last mail. My Mother telling me of Thorndean having fetched £28,000. I feel so sorry to feel it gone out of the family, besides leaving nothing for the family. I pray God may preserve my father long. Wrote home to my mother, Russie and Annie. Sent 8 dozen oranges to Capt. Fowler and home – each.

17 December – Saturday

I have just come in from seeing a cricket match played between the Garrison and Fleet, in which the former made the most runs, but as the stumps were drawn before the Fleet had finished, it became a drawn game.

Heard from home by the last mail. Yesterday, I went with a party of men on board the Weser to get her ready for sea, with all despatch, to take any succours to the Psyche, which is wrecked on the Cyclops Rocks, off Catania. The Royal Oak and Caledonia are there. Poor Tommy Temple only went to her a short time ago (about 6 days).

Last Thursday (the 15th) I went to an afternoon dance on board the Prince Consort. It went off very well. I saw an old flame of mine, but she was not recognising me. I did not remind her of our old acquaintance. Today, I lunched with Admiral Key. Mrs McRea and Rich and Miss Randolph being there also.

DEPART MALTA

19 December – Monday

Sailed, or rather steamed, out from Malta Harbour last night, as little was known about the Psyche.

Daylight, Mt Etna appeared right ahead; Catania a little to the left. Smoke issuing from the top of the crater. The side was studded with several villages and many detached houses, but I was rather disappointed altogether at the view for there was nothing very striking nor bold, but the reverse, in the Mount. I hear, however, that from the Straits of Messina, it appears to greater advantage.

The Psyche was ashore within a couple of hundred yards of Cape Molini and one could throw a cricket ball on to the nearest rock above the water. The Royal Oak and Caledonia – Weser, and an Italian Man-of-War were here besides ourselves. Two small vessels were on the Psyche’s bow. She had struck on the port bow, and made a good big hole there.

I spoke to John Fellowes, who was very much cut up at her loss, and poor Scott owned it was entirely his fault. He kept porting his helm and trying to get clear of them by going inside, and he had not the decision to reverse his helm, or stop. An attempt to get her off was made today, but proved fruitless.

20 December – Tuesday

I have been hard at work all day in the Launch, one way or another. A great effort was made at half past two to haul her off. This ship (L.W.) having her stream chain and hemp sheet made fast, and all three ships going ahead but it was unavailing. Later in the day, the Caledonia came ahead of us to tow also, but she made us fall off and we drifted astern, broadside on, and after nearly capsizing the Italian, and as near as possible touching the rock, we got clear, being obliged to let go both of our cables, which will give us a great deal of trouble tomorrow.

ount Etna in the twilight this morning looked very well. The country had a wild appearance about it, the lava being piled in the picturesque manner.

21 December – Wednesday

This afternoon, made another great attempt to haul the Psyche off, using our sheet chain, but it proved fruitless and we carried away our sheet. So any further attempts at getting her off were abandoned and orders given to strip her, which we began at once. The Italian steamed off only too glad to get off so cheaply.

22 December – Thursday

This afternoon at about 12.30 the eclipse of the sun commenced, and some time later about 1.40 the sun was totally eclipsed. It was quite dusk, the stars appeared, I was just able to read off the time from my watch. The moon did not appear darker than the surrounding blue sky (appeared of dark indian ink wash), and from it rays of light shone out, which gave it a very curious appearance, seeing these rays shoot out from a dark round body, or in fact from no body at all, for as I before said, the moon appeared of the same colour and shade as the sky and did not appear a separate body.

The total eclipse lasted about one minute and a third of a minute, and the first notice of the sun appearing was in the form of a huge bright star, which immediately brightened up the whole place. The thermometer fell very little, not more than a degree and a half. I am very glad I saw it for I did not know how it looked.

23 December – Friday

Weighed this morning and practising at firing at target, making very good practice. The Royal Oak remained to clear Psyche out.

RETURN MALTA

25 December – Sunday CHRISTMAS DAY

Had into lunch in the Gun Room Mr Hastings and The Hon B. Yelverton. Hood presenting to the latter in the name of gunroom officers a silver bouquet holder and bouquet. She was quite equal to the occasion. I should also say that Capt. Brandreth and Lt Dacres also lunched, the Commander and Secretary being unable to. Hood sat between the Admiral and Miss H. and I sat on the Captain’s right. Jack Eden sitting at the head and on his left Dacres sat. The lunch went off very well indeed. Very good viands and liquor and there was no stiffness or awkwardness felt by anyone. They all expressed their pleasure in having lunched in the G.R. At dinner the Warrant came in. It was a very noisy dinner, liquor having been very freely supplied all day, however it went off all right. Later in the evening I’m sorry to say several youngsters and oldsters too, drank more than was good for them.

28 December – Wednesday

Heard from my beloved Mother. I’m horribly afraid this sad family affair is preying very much on her mind and is doing her great harm. It seems to me but a forerunner of more troubles to come amongst the family. It shows what a great deal of harm and sorrow can be done by one person.

1871

1 January – Sunday

Another year begins. I hope it will be fruitful of more happiness and joy than the last has been in every way to myself and family. I look back to this time 1870.

Called at Mrs Key’s and found her and Miss Key at home. Stayed some little time. In the evening attended Divine Service at the Garrison Chapel.

4 January – Wednesday

Nothing of note has been going on. Monday I heard from my beloved Mother and was so sorry to hear of the death of Mrs Gore’s child. Meta, poor girl will be quite worn out when she goes home. Last night the Governor’s Ball came off. I did not go. I heard however that his liquor was anything but good. The Champagne consisting of five parts – three parts of water, one of lemonade, one of champagne, the concoction being called champagne.

6 January – Friday

Heard from my dearest and truest friend, Henry Mandeville. His letter gave me much pain and yet satisfaction. The pain was merited, for it was a guilty conscience accusing me of ungratefulness, added to forgetfulness towards my God and Saviour.

13 January – Friday

The jottings in my journal are few and far between, but I must say in excuse that I have not much time to myself, and what I do have is generally occupied in writing letters and reading. I shall mention a few incidents that have occurred since my last writing in this book.

Monday (9th), I had the pleasure (speaking in conventional terms) of dining with Admiral and Mrs Key, Commander and Mrs Morant, Commander Fitz Roy, making up the number. It was a very quiet dinner, verging almost on dullness. After dinner we sat round the fire, talking. Mrs Key does not play the part of hostess at all well. Miss Key, a dear old maid of I should say 40 summers, or rather winters, being by far the most agreeable.

Yesterday (12th) After playing several games at rackets, I went out for a pull in Edward’s skiff, there being some little sea, I got pretty well wet through. I was surprised by Adm. and Miss Y. pulling round a point in the galley and catching me in a very dishabillé state. I bowed, which they both returned in the most gracious manner.

In the evening went with Prickett to the Opera. I made an appointment to meet him at the Club at 8 pm but he did not make his appearance till 8.30 causing me some inconvenience. I did not care much for the Opera. Mlle Girius I detest. Knowing what she is, I daresay prejudices me against her and she looks so bloated and flabby in the cheeks. Her acting is I think simply ridiculous. She has a few nice notes, otherwise there is nothing to recommend her.

I commenced learning the violin the day before yesterday. I wonder when I shall be able to play at all decently.

14 January – Saturday

Last night our Dramatic corps gave an entertainment at the Opera House in aid of Captain’s Relief Fund, consisting of a farce Retained for the Defence, and a burlesque Aladdin. A clog dance and hornpipe between the two. I went with a party of six other fellows having taken a stage box between us.

The House was very full, nearly all the boxes being taken, though I don’t think any stalls were empty; the pit and gallery being quite full. The Admiral and Miss Y. were in a stage box opposite to ours.

The farce went off very well. Wiseman and Le Strange carrying off the honours. Next followed a hornpipe and then a clog dance, which was very amusing, especially as towards the end his breeches fitting him taut, they rent before and behind, making him appear in a most comical light. He danced away quite unconscious that the unusual mirth was being excited by his accident, for a very good reason too, viz: he did not know that his breeches had gone.

The Burlesque was on next, preceded by an overture compiled for the occasion by the band-master of the 48th, it bringing in the songs which were 17 or 18 in number. It was well played. The burlesque was excellent. Widow Twanky could not have been done better than it was by Wiseman. Le Strange also doing Aladdin to perfection. Temple did his part with great self-possession. Hood over-acted his part. Capt. Buchanan performed well. Leefe did fairly well.

The Prima Ballerina, Signorina Castralli and Signor Stanci danced a Tarantella in one of the scenes and did it very well, being encored. She danced gracefully. It was not over till midnight. Any amount of bouquets were thrown. Miss Y. throwing some and something like 20 from our box alone. I paid Mrs Key a visit at her box. Dacres condescended to pay us one.

15 January – Sunday

Had a walk with Prickett. When first we set out seeing symptoms of heavy rain approaching we took refuge in the Capuchin Monastery and paid a visit to the worthy old fellows banked below. They were not well preserved. The last arrivals are in the best condition and look the most loathsome. The skin is very like parchment. After the rain had stopped we went on towards Sliema, and passing it we walked round it to Gzira and from there we crossed Quarantine Harbour by boat and proceeded to the Garrison Chapel; afterwards made a good dinner at the Club and came on board.

18 January – Wednesday

Landed to with the small arms men. I think Kane is a tolerably good hand at drilling. The Royal Oaks drill well and are what you say “good all round.”

Ordered Michael to send some oranges to Ireland for Henry Mandeville and all expenses to be paid for. I think on receiving a present and also a bill for a carriage at the same time, one half the feeling of obligation and gratification towards the sender goes and takes away from the pleasure of getting it.

I forgot to mention of my going over a large American steamer last Monday called the Arizona, a paddler, worked with a beam engine and on her way out to Hong Kong, as she is intended to run between that place and Shanghai. She is five years old and has been running on the American coast and is fitted for holding something like 500 passengers, 200 of those being first class.

She has a fine saloon and clear upper deck, the latter being canvassed over and a smoking room and sitting room. In the last named a nice piano, and she has nice sleeping cabins both for married people and single people. She makes, according to my informant (the steward), 12 and 13 knots. He told me that in about a month’s time, a much larger steamer would come in, she being one of a new line that run from New York to San Francisco via Suez Canal, touching at Malta to coal etc. I must say these Yankees are most enterprising for by lines and steamers they have constructed, one can go round the world, changing only once, during a whole passage.

19 January – Thursday

This afternoon as no work was going aboard, I took the opportunity of getting out of the ship and hired a small skiff for the afternoon, pulling all over the Grand Harbour. I paid every steamer a visit, in hopes of hearing or seeing of one that had dropped her screws off – so as to inform my father.

After three hours skiffing I landed at the Canteen and played several rubbers at fives. In going about the harbour today it struck me that the traffic and commerce was more than commensurate to the place. I suppose its being such a convenient place for calling at and coaling, brings the greater number of ships in and not the merchandise.

24 January – Tuesday

In reading through The Gypsy by James one or two passages rather took my fancy, one especially on one’s trying to argue oneself into a decision on any particular subject, it running thus.

It is wonderful, most wonderful how people deceive themselves in this world, and how they go on arguing with themselves on both sides of the question for an hour together, affecting to be puzzled and asking themselves what is to be done, when, from the very first, they have determined in secret counsel, what to do, and all this logic and disquisition has solely been for the purpose of bewildering reason, or duty, or conscience, or any other of those personified qualities of the soul, which the great parliament of men’s passions choose to look upon as the public – the spectators.

27 January – Friday

Last evening, I went to the Opera to hear Poliuto, one of Donizetti’s, Potentini, and Pavani singing the latter, was very good. I considered the Opera pleasant, but Bellini and Meyerbeer, are my two favourite composers, the former for his pretty airs which please one’s fancy and keep the mind in a state of pleasant ecstasy; the latter stirs the mind up by its sublime and grand loves and makes one imagine himself in the seventh Heaven.

29 January – Sunday

Been very unwell since last night, indigestion. The weather being so unpropitious I did not go ashore as I usually do on Sundays.

31 January – Tuesday

Had a letter from home. To my surprise I heard of Uncle George getting an appointment out here at Malta, as Deputy Assistant Adjutant General – a long enough name for any appointment. It will be rather jolly having a house to go to, for I suppose my worthy Aunt will come out too. Heard also of Harry’s serious accident whilst out hunting, and sincerely hope he will pull through alright. Wrote to my mother, Meta, Henry and Harry.

4 February – Saturday

Dear Meta’s birthday; she being nineteen years of age, getting quite old.

The Serapis sailed yesterday for England. I was in Gamble’s house and witnessed her going out.

Our amateur theatricals came off last night and were successful. I have not heard the amount cleared yet.

Telegram today gave news of Bourbon’s army being driven on Swiss territory. I think the Prussian terms are a great deal too harsh and if she persists in them I think England should step in and interfere for humanity’s sake, but I don’t think she will persist in them, but has just demanded them so as to give up.

5 February – Sunday

Had a walk with Fane, landing at Spencer’s Monument and walking round the head of Grand Harbour by the race-course. Attended Service at St Paul’s Cathedral and was never more disgusted in my life at the utter and wilful inattention paid by all, or nearly all to the Service. Everyone paying attention to the singing, it gave one the impression of being at an Opera.

9 February – Thursday

Last night went to the Opera and saw Faust. It was very good indeed, Girius and Pavani singing well. The choruses were good.

Today I went a round of visits, first calling on the Keys, and Barlows, both being out. I next proceeded to the xx and saw Capt. and Mrs xx, who both seemed nice persons. Heard from James, from Barda [?] this morning. He was quite well, had not done much shikaring. Wrote to Tom de Hoghton.

12 February – Sunday

I have just returned from the Barracca Chapel having heard a very good sermon indeed. In the afternoon I paid Prickett a visit on board the Antelope and was surprised at the comforts they had in the way of accommodation. Prickett has worked well in her in every way. He is one of those steady going clear headed fellows that are sure to work their way ultimately to the top of the tree, having nothing brilliant about them, but possessing that methodical and determined manner, that eventually succeeds against every obstacle. The day before yesterday I had a letter from Henry Mandeville,such a loving sensitive one. I ought and do feel most grateful that I have been blessed with such a true friend and adviser.

I should mention that on Friday last I began taking lessons in French with Fane from Monsieur Bucci. My violining goes on satisfactorily.

Last night, Saturday, I spent up at the Stevens, a raffle going on for a skiff and I went to represent Hood, which I did to his satisfaction, as I won it for him. They seem hospitable people, but I still withhold my review on them, until I know them better.

13 February – Monday

Had three letters by the Southampton mail. Heard with regret of the unavoidable decision about Robbie. I feel so sorry. Annie seems to have been very gay, nothing but one round of gaiety, dinner parties, balls, skating and other amusements. She was kind enough to send me two letters.

During sail drill in the morning I had what might well be called a providential escape, for standing under the fore-top, the pin (about fourteen inches long) that goes in the heel of the top-glt. mast fell within a few inches of my head from the top. If it had hit me I should be afraid almost to say what the consequences would have been. Wrote to Tom de Hoghton, Home, Annie.

16 February – Thursday

Yesterday afternoon the New Dock was opened. The dock was nearly encircled by posts supporting lines of flags from one to the other. A stage being erected at the head of the dock, where the ceremony of laying the last stone was to be performed.

Only a limited number of people were admitted on it. I managed to get in after a good deal of trouble and found myself next to the Stevens. The place was crowded with people kept back by barriers from the dock. A Guard of Honour composed of Marines was inside the barrier and also the Naval Cadets and Mids of the Trafalgar about 70 in number were fallen in two deep.

On the Governor passing the ships in his barge they manned yards and the Lord Warden saluted him. On his landing with the Admiral he was received with all due honours. On the Governor’s party reaching the stage, the Bishop of Gibraltar gave a short blessing and the choirs of the ships tried to sing Hymn 242, but signally failed.

Miss Yelverton then – after the stone was lowered into its place, it having been suspended by means of shears all but the last touch of the mortar having been put on – was presented with a silver trowel and put on the last piece of mortar and with a square, tried if the stone was laid square.

At that minute, at a given signal from the dock, all the ships fired a royal salute and the Caledonia dressed ship with flags and slipped from the buoy; also the sluice was opened, and a splendid column of water came rushing in and very soon filled the dock. The caisson was next drawn back and the Caledonia entered in very slowly indeed and the ceremony was over. It was a success, but wanted more life and spirit shown. There was no cheering and the band was not strong.

In the evening Admiral Yelverton gave a ball to which I went, more particularly to renew an acquaintance with some people I had formerly known, however, I was unsuccessful. I stayed there till 2 am and had several dances. It was very crowded the first part of the evening, but much better later on.

19 February – Sunday

Went to the Stevens in the afternoon and with them went to the Prison Chapel. The wretched prisoners, wretched in so far that they certainly cannot pay much attention, if any, to what is going on, being made to keep their eyes and limbs in one position. This must be very irksome and keeps the mind employed, speculating “how much longer they will have to remain in the same position”, and “when they will be allowed to move”?, and a dozen other similar questions. The answer being the theme of speculation presents itself in many forms and the mind gets wearied and confused in sifting the chaos of ideas. Naturally enough, what is heard of the prayers or sermon has no hold on the mind and of course does no good. Whereas, on the other hand, by allowing them to fall into a natural and easy position by sitting down, or standing up, their mind would be free to receive or store up all that is said to them.

20 February – Monday

The mail came in and I received letters from Meta and Theresa Mann. Frank Walker lunched with me.

21 February – Tuesday

I went ashore this afternoon to see the Carnival. I unfortunately went in uniform which was a check on my freedom as I did not like to throw confetti naturally, and I could not force my way through the crowd. I suppose one twentieth of the people were masked and in the most absurd costumes imaginable.

The Strada Reale was crammed full of people, a continual shower of sugar plums being kept up principally between the people in the street, and those in the houses and carriages going by, for there was continuous stream of the latter passing, the occupants as a rule being masked.

In the large square, the top of the library and houses were full of officers and ladies pelting everyone and each other. The square was full of people in the most fantastical costumes, dancing and exhibiting the most uproarious mirth and gaiety. I got a few showers of confetti, but nothing to speak of.

To think that for three days people should be so silly and devoid of sense, as to enjoy their holiday in this childish fashion. One would think it was more fit for children than grown up people. One pleasant circumstance I noticed was, however much the people got pelted, they kept their temper which surprised me, as naturally the Maltese are so fiery and prone to take offence. There were some amusing scenes. A group of disgusting looking fellows, dressed in hideous Jacks, coolly walked up to a fatherly looking gentlemen and each in turn patted both his cheeks and tweaked his nose, much to his astonishment and the amusement of the spectators.

26 February – Sunday

Last night, I went to the Opera, saw Roberto Diavolo. Today I dined with Frank Walker and commissioned him to take some gloves home to Meta and Annie. In the evening went to the Hammet Chapel.

27 February – Monday

Had dinner with Prickett on board Antelope. He has got her in very good order indeed and she does him credit.

Temple has got well out of his row, his usual good fortune following him through all his rows. Fane goes to the Pandora. I am rather sorry he is going, as he is a very nice fellow, very even tempered in the Mess, if not elsewhere.

The Commander I am afraid is rather boozey tonight. I feel very sorry for him for I’m certain, as that I am here, if he does not knock off drinking like he does, he will ruin utterly his constitution and die a premature death. Wrote to both my father and mother.

Communion was celebrated today on the Main Deck which I do not like, as the ship’s company had to remain sitting at Church and consequently talked and laughed till the Commander was obliged to get up and order silence. I spoke to Mr Wilson and said that it ought to be held in the Fore Cabin, or under a screen, but he answered by saying the Admiral was averse to it and wished it to be held as it was.

Wrote to James Hall and tried to write Annie, but I felt so tired and felt my letter was so devoid of any interest that I stopped writing.

The French paddle steamer went out. I am very glad to see that the French have agreed to the German terms. Now the work to be done is to choose the form of Government. I hope the Orleanists will gain the throne. I dislike a Republic very much.

DEPART MALTA

8 March – Wednesday

Steamed out of Grand Harbour yesterday afternoon, in company with the Prince Consort, Caledonia and Wizard. Trafalgar accompanied us outside and then parted company.

9 March – Thursday

This morning I kept the morning watch. At daylight we were off Syracuse, a moderate sized town, very compact and with a sea wall round the seaward part of the town, appears pretty well fortified. Mount Etna was looming in view ahead, looking very grand and imposing, its sides streaked with snow. The top emerging in view from a bank of clouds which hung heavily on the mountain side near the top. In the course of the day we passed Catania and Aci Reale (the latter a large town at the foot of Etna) and Cyclops Rocks. In ancient mythology, the Cyclops were supposed to be sons of Neptune and were workmen of Vulcan, who plied his trade in the subterranean vaults of Etna. They were horrible monsters, with only one eye, and that in the middle of their forehead.

In the evening, we entered the Straits of Messina. The coast of Italy on our starboard side, and Sicily on our left. The moon rose in a most glorious manner from behind the coast of Italy and with a pair of binoculars, furze and small bushes could be easily seen standing out in relief against the moon, although I should say, some five miles or more distant.

About eleven o’clock we passed through Charybdis, and past Scylla and Messina; the latter was well lit up and appeared a large town (and it is to be regretted we did not pass through in the day-time, as I believe the scenery on the coast is magnificent). The Scylla Rocks were hardly distinguishable, in fact I don’t think they were, although some said they were, but I expect imagination lent its aid to their sight. The Ancients assigned the origin of these rocks to a horrible woman noted for her crimes and killed by Hercules and turned into the above mentioned rocks.

In passing through Charybdis the vessel’s heads veered about a good deal, up to as much as 6–7 points, the current rushing against the ship’s side very strongly. I should say we took about half-an-hour or more passing through. I hope I shall not be thought prosy in writing a little more about mythology, for I feel bound to give the story about Charybdis. It runs thus – Neptune fell in love with her, as she was a most beautiful woman, but Amphitrite his wife, did not like this at all, so she turned poor Charybdis into a sea monster (who I conclude is always stirring up the water, thereby causing the whirlpool).

9 March – Thursday

This morning, on going on deck, found we were some way through the Straits, and had the Lipari Islands on our right, Stromboli not showing very distinctly. The coast line of Italy could be seen running along behind the Islands and we had Sicily on our left, it being rather misty the land did not appear plain. The top of Etna was seen now and then, so both the two volcanoes could be seen at the same time.

We had sail drill in the morning and in the evening spar drill. I may mention, that we have been steaming since leaving Malta.

ARRIVE PALERMO

10 March – Friday

Palermo Bay. Anchored here this forenoon, about one third of a mile off the landing. The town of Palermo is situated on a lovely plain, ridges of mountains running round the plain in different directions, as if shutting in the plain from the rest of the island and sacredly guarding it.

11 March – Saturday

This afternoon, in company with Markham, I went up Monte Pellegrino, starting about one o’clock and landing at the New Mole. We made a detour round the town and arrived after some little time at the foot of La Scala di Rosalia, the road one has to ascend by. The lower portion of it is built on a series of arches zigzagging up a dry torrent bed. The whole of the road is paved with small rough stones, which is not pleasant to the feet. The view from any portion of this road is truly lovely. I have never seen anything to equal it. First the bay, which is a magnificent one, not being too large, bold headlands at each extremity. Pellegrino on the left and Cape Zafferana on the right. The former being a huge mass of rock, rising to the height of about 1960 feet, and about 12 miles round at the base, with rocky and precipitous sides.

The town lies at the head of this bay and looks so pretty with huge mountains standing boldly out in the background, and its suburbs scattered round it, the latter running out in different directions all over this plain. This plain being about 25 miles in circumference. Monte Reale is seen about 4 miles distant on the hill immediately behind the town. There are a large number of churches in the place and numerous domes are seen, but as I have seen little of the town I shall not say anything more about it at present. But to continue my recital of our ascent.

After a tedious and very warm walk of about an hour and a half, we reached the Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia – entering by a rather unpretentious porch, we beheld in front of us the grotto, which is very pretty and natural. It is not very large and has a large entrance for its size.

In it is the tomb of the Saint, and a marble effigy of her covered with a robe of beaten gold chased with flowers, (the robe being a gift of Charles III in the last century). The figure is very beautiful. It is of white marble and has on it the expression of dying, but the mouth seemed a little too unnatural. I had a drink of delicious cold water from a font behind the altar, it being supplied from the top of the cavern.

We did not stay very long, but pushed on to a bluff, where a large figure of Rosalia stands on a pedestal, it being a mile or so further on. The figure is in a lamentable state of repair. The view is magnificent, the whole of the bay with the ships at your feet. Sardinia to be seen in the distance and coast line running away for miles. The snowy peaks of mountains in the interior, make up a tableau really worth struggling up miles of roads to see. Unfortunately for us a mist hung over the horizon and the distant mountains, so that without the Lipari Islands, Italy nor Mount Etna could be seen, the latter being over 100 miles distant, so what could be seen on a clear day will be left to the reader’s imagination.

I sat for about a quarter of an hour, drinking in the view, and watching the tiny boats below, at their fishing. A steamer passed at the time and seemed to crawl along, our height above her being so great.

We did not take long coming back, about three quarters of an hour, or a little more, and passed into the town, through one of its suburbs, which consisted of small houses principally of the labouring classes. They seemed not over clean, but I shall leave this subject for further consideration. Came off with the Captain and made a rattling good tea. I feel too tired to write more.

12 March – Sunday

This afternoon, I went in company with Gamble, Rowley and a fellow called Wright of the Prince Consort, in a carriage out to Monte Reale. It was a most miserable drive, the road and air being full of dust, and one of my companions not behaving exactly as he should have done.

Arriving at Il Duomo, the Cathedral, we got out and went inside proceeding to look at the mosaics which are very fair and abound in large quantities. I think there is some 80,629 square feet altogether. Those on the top of the sides representing the upper and middle rows, the history of man from this Creation, to the wrestling of Jacob with an Angel, each mosaic portraying some different action. Those on the lower row, represented our Lord and Saviour’s miracles; they were the largest and I think the best. The floor and sides are all worked in with mosaics.

From the Cathedral we went into the adjoining Benedictine Convent, now used by the soldiery. There is a very fine picture on the way up by the marble staircase, done by Novelli representing St Benedict distributing loaves to the poor. I think the Saints and a wizened old man’s face on the right are the best. The woman’s is not bad, the two children I did not like. Several of the faces on the left are good.

From seeing that we went into the Cloisters. They have about 200 pillars and no two of them have their capitals alike, every other one being alternately plain pillars and having mosaic worked in. The pillars were all marble and the corner ones were beautifully cut. The whole place is in a state of decay.

We drove back again, having kept the carriage about 3½ hours and paying a franc each. We could get no views, it being foggy and vilely dusty.

14 March – Sunday

Last night I went to the Opera Bellini and saw Ruy Blas. The house is not so big as the one at Malta and I did not like the singers at all. The prima donna’s voice being thin and catching at the notes. The tenor was not strong enough. I left after the third act. I believe there was a good ballet after the Opera. The stalls were most uncomfortable and cost two francs and a half. I did not see a pretty girl in the house. The Strada Vittorio Emanuele looked very long (which it is), looking from one end of the street, the gas lamps appearing in a line, looked like a stream of fire.

DEPART PALERMO

15 March – Monday

Steamed out from Palermo Bay yesterday forenoon. The evening before the Prince Belmonte presented 18 tickets to the mess through Carponi. I went to the Opera it being Romeo and Juliet. I did not care for it much. There was a good ballet, but I don’t much care for ballets.

ARRIVE NAPLES

19 March – Sunday

Arrived here the day before yesterday. Am now keeping watch for Hamilton, he having gone to Rome in company with a good many others. I cannot afford to go. The Rapid came in yesterday from Malta with Mids. Had letters from my mother, Annie and Dick Wilmot, the latter pricked me sore. This evening wrote to my parents and Annie. We are having very showery and coldish weather, not what one anticipates getting at Naples. We are moored off the Mole, inside the Royal Oak, Caledonia and Prince Consort having their sterns moored to the Mole. There are several Italian men-of-war in. The Franklin came in today.

22 March – Wednesday

Last Monday I went ashore in the forenoon and after walking with Mr Lewis to the Chiaja, we proceeded to the Museum and on payment of a franc obtained an entrance. I met Carponi by appointment and left old Lewis. We proceeded first to the mosaics, which are nearly all taken from Pompeii. There is a splendid one railed round representing a battle (between I think the Greeks and Romans). The statues are very good as are the bronzes. I liked some of the paintings, especially one of Leo. In the library, you walk up to the centre of the room, and the porter will meet you, and with two large books, he will clap them together, which causes a most curious echo – a rolling hurr---r-r sound. I went to the small room, not public, and saw things, which does not cause one to wonder at the destruction of Pompeii.

Monsieur having a bad ache now in his head, we drove down to the Grand Cafe and had lunch there. Carponi meeting there a Hungarian gentleman, he joined our party and after lunch we all went over the Royal Palace. It is of great size and has many apartments, well fitted up. In one of the rooms stands the cradle, presented to the Princess Marguerite by the City of Naples on the birth of her first child. It is very handsome indeed and precious also. I took the liberty of sitting on the throne, when the guide was not looking. There is a very nice little theatre in the palace also besides which there is a passage opening into the Theatre San Carlo, which is contiguous to the Palace, of which more hereafter.

From the palace we drove to the Catacombs and on payment of a franc obtained admission. There are three galleries. Some of the paintings on the walls are in very fair condition. From the Catacombs we went on to Capo di Monte having received an order at the Palace Royal. There is another palace at Capo di Monte which we went over. It has a large collection of modern paintings and an armoury. Drove down to the Mole and came off to the ship.

In the evening went with Le Strange to the Opera San Carlo to see L’Ebrea – the Jervis. It was very good indeed, Krauss singing the songs very well, although over fifty years of age. Le Strange knew her personally she having sung at his home in private. After the Opera came a most magnificent ballet, the dresses were superb and the prima ballerina danced like a feather. It was a very pretty scene indeed; lasted for an hour and a half. Came off about 1.30 am.

On March 21st, Tuesday, at 12.30 I started in company with Lewis, Paul and Martin for Pompeii leaving the station at Naples about 1.00 pm and arriving at Annunziata about twenty or thirty minutes afterwards, this train not running to Pompeii. We walked from Annunziata to Pompeii, about a mile and a half, several of the carriage drivers bothering us, until I with great solemnity hauled out pencil and paper and took his number, at which he made off at once. Paying an entrance fee of two francs each, we entered Pompeii, a guide accompanying us.

I am afraid of giving, or trying to give a description of the place, so I shall simply mention what I saw in a general manner. The place was doubly interesting to me from having read Lytton’s Last days of Pompeii, and having seen Petrella’s Opera Ione went to the amphitheatre calculated to hold 10,000 people and all over the ruins to the houses of Sallust, Diomedes and the Faun. In most of the houses, especially the principal ones, the walls were in good preservation as were a good many mosaics. It is curious to note the ruts in the streets, caused by chariot wheels. The streets would only admit, except in a few of the principal ones, one chariot to pass along at the same time.

I am not surprised at Pompeii being destroyed, for the most indecent significations are cut in the lava, both in the footpath and on the walls of houses, in which if you enter, the frescoes on the walls you see are simply loathsome and show how demoralised the Pompeians must have been.

I saw several casts of human beings found. On one, the features were quite distinguishable and on another you could see the female wore a ring, and had a very pretty hand. Loaves of bread found, and articles of iron of all sorts were found; tickets (ivory) for the theatre etc. etc. The big houses had baths in them, and you could always tell a sleeping chamber from the frescoes on the walls, and I would say a ladies, from the many frescoes of birds, flowers etc to be seen.

We stopped there three hours and a half and I could have stayed very much longer, but that it was getting late, we had to return, being very much pleased indeed at all we saw. I let my imagination run riot whilst there, imagining myself to be everyone, from the Roman Lord to the Greek Slave. It was really wonderful to see things as they stood 1800 years ago, and as their owners left them. We came back by the 6 o’clock train from Annunziata, very much pleased with our trip. It cost us a little over four francs, two for entrance to Pompeii and two for railway expenses.

Wrote home and Annie.

24 March – Friday

Last night the Pandora came in with mails. I had a letter from my father, mother and Annie. Was so glad to hear of Russie’s being reinstated. Today, I went and got photographed and bought some of different scenes.

25 March – Saturday

Was ashore today. First, visiting San Severo Chapel, to see the veiled marble figures there, the one of the dead Saviour is really beautiful, looking down on it, the features could be seen through the veil distinctly. It must have been very difficult carving the veil on the body. From San Severo we went to the Museum.

I had a good look at some of the paintings, especially Raphael’s and Correggio’s. I admired Raphael’s Holy Family so very much; the Virgin’s face is beautiful, calm, peaceful, yet not insipid or lifeless. There is something very taking in it, the eyes too, went down so meekly. Joseph’s face is very good, the expression being so good. Also his painting of Leo with Cardinal Medici, I much admired. Of Correggio’s, I liked the Magdalene very much. I should not have thought very much of St Catherine, if I had not known it by hearsay so well, and also seen a very good copy of it. The colours in it are very rich and mellow.

In the Bolognese Room I admired Lavinia Fontana’s Samaritan at the Well very much. She was very well done and looked very pretty, more of a pretty coquette, than of a woman humbly seeking knowledge and instruction.

27 March – Monday

Yesterday, I remained on board all day. In the afternoon, I had a letter from Henry who I could see was very much cast down by my inconsistency and cowardice. He wrote me plainly and truthfully as a friend should, pointing to me the dangerous position in which I stood. Wrote Henry M.

28 March – Tuesday

Wrote to Theresa Mann and Miss Finch, Home and Meta.

30 March – Thursday

Last night I went to the Opera with White. We started at 5.30 pm by the officer’s boat, in spite of wind and weather. We had very good seats 4.5 francs, No 4 row – 20 seat, and I did so thoroughly enjoy Norma. The duets were lovely. Krauss’s voice is full, rich and powerful, and to hear the contralto sing after her was as drinking thin milk after cream, although one of her solo’s was very good. The tenor was good, a splendid voice, moved about like a stick. We went up into a box on the Grand Tier afterwards to see the ballet which destroyed all the impressions left on my mind by the singing.

1 April – Saturday

Went up San Martini intending to see the Convent, but was disappointed as we were too late. It being a clear night, Vesuvius can be seen burning very brightly; looks as if it had a huge bonfire burning on top of it, or rather two, as the small cone is burning too.

I have been reading the Epicurean and am forcibly struck with the beauty and poetry in it, and also that longing for immortality that Alciphron displays, and it has caused me to think more about my soul and its future life than I’m sorry to say I have done as yet. I feel that longing for immortality (not transitory I hope) to make sure of it and rest content and quiet under that assurance. I have been taught and firmly believe that assurance can only be found in the doctrines of the Christian faith, and that assurance, it is my wish and will be my endeavour to gain. I must study my Bible very much, as I know little about its great truths, and God, I pray guide and lead me on my new path I have chosen and thou hast prompted me to choose. I am weak and my will and faith are not strong as thou knowest. Let me grasp the infinite riches in the Book of Books. Let me not falter or rail in my new path of life. God, Be thou my guide and helper in all things righteous.

HMS RAPID

(Wooden screw sloop)

DEPART NAPLES

4 April – Tuesday

The day before yesterday, the Admiral asked me if I should like to be lent to this ship for three or four months. I would keep watch and gain a good deal of experience. He was very kind about it and told me to think over it. I turned the matter over in my mind and taking all things into consideration I thought it best I should go, and yesterday morning I found this ship, and Gamble at the same time joined the Pandora. I was at once put into watch and kept the 4 to 6. I shall like the ship very much. I can prophesy with certainty.

ARRIVE MESSINA

6 April – Thursday

Arrived here with the Fleet last night, found the Cockatrice here with mails. Heard from home and Meta, disgusted to hear the gloves are too small. Must send some more as soon as possible. We are made fast to a buoy inside the harbour. Yesterday in coming through the Straits of Messina, we passed through very strong currents, which slewed us about – the big ships just as much – like tops, our head flying round at times at least eight points. I don’t think we were in far enough to be in Charybdis. Saw the Scylla Rocks.

7 April – Friday

This afternoon I went ashore with Fane. We walked out of the town and after plodding through sandy roads, climbed up a hill, and were rewarded by a capital view of the town, harbour and Straits. After coming back, we went to the Cathedral of course. It has rather a handsome doorway carved in the Byzantine style. The place was very full of people, I suppose come to see the altar lit up. I must say the people did not show any great reverence, which they should have done towards the place they were in, it resembling more a meeting of friends come to meet each other, than of people come to pray for their future welfare and immortality of their souls.

9 April – Sunday

This forenoon, I went with the Church party to the Lord Warden and in the afternoon went ashore with Nettleton the Paymaster for a walk, and after toiling along through sand and between walls, we fetched to a cemetery with a most peculiar built Chapel attached to it. The cemetery was evidently of recent origin.

Now, I have been some days in this Mess, I have formed an opinion on all my mess-mates.

Poor Church, the carpenter of (L.W), was on board here. He has just heard news about his wife’s death. When he spoke to me about it, he was quite overcome and I gave him the paper Henry so kindly sent me.

DEPART MESSINA

10 April – Monday

This morning the fleet sailed from Messina and after a couple of hours came half way up on a ridge of high mountains that looks most picturesque indeed. The country all round is very grand and bold, and looks very striking to the eye, and it is such a pretty sight to see as we come along the coast, villages nestling in the valleys and ravines.

As we lay to for about three hours, I went ashore and after a good climb and walk came to a very large ruin of a Theatre. It must have been very handsome and big and ancient. I believe it is doubtful whether it is of Grecian or Roman build. There are several columns with their capitals still standing. We did not sail for an hour after our time, the Admiral and Miss Y. detaining us.

ARRIVE CATANIA

11 April – Tuesday

This afternoon I went ashore with Nettleton, our Paymaster, and strolled about the streets of Catania, having arrived here this morning. There are three very fine straight and long streets in the town, the shops are scanty and not of any importance. The place seems clean and lacks life, but, I daresay it being the time for the Siesta caused it to have that deserted appearance.

12 April – Wednesday

The Wizard arrived this morning with our mails and I heard from my father and Harry Kelham, the former was in Yorkshire and had been visiting some mines etc. The latter, as he expressed it, had been ploughed at Woolwich and was going in for the line and I’m sure if his talents are anything like his writing, I don’t wonder in the least.

Last night, I had a very long and serious conversation with our Assistant Surgeon, Wood, handling many subjects, and at last it led to religion, necessarily, when the mind, will and power of man is brought up in the conversation.

13 April – Thursday

I paid a visit to Dionysus’s Ear this afternoon. It is cut out of the solid rock, and is I should say about 60 feet high, and 400 feet long. The top of this cavern winds round in the shape of an xxx and from the top the sides curve out, till at the bottom on the ground there is about 50–60 feet between the sides. Thus standing at the entrance of it (if there was sufficient light to do so) the other end would be shut out from view by the curving of the cavern. The entrance is cut in the form of the ear, and words spoken in the cavern can be distinctly heard over the whole of it, and Dionysus sat up above the cavern, with a hole in the top looking down in it and thus could see and hear everything that went on.

This ear and a large prison are both cut out of the solid rock, which form the sides of a large, once used quarry. In the prison, the prisoners in the old times were not allowed to go out of it and this has caused a large amount of refuse to collect, which is now used as manure being very rich.

To show what the depth of the quarry is, out of the middle of it rises a large piece of rock, some 70 or 80 feet high, and it has a ruined castle on top. From this we went to the Catacombs which are very fine, and better cut than those at Naples. The length of them I don’t know, there are three tiers; they have few frescoes painted.

We also saw the old theatre and amphitheatre, and then we went to see the cricket match between the Lord Wardens against Caledonias and Rapids, the latter licking by one inning and 11 runs. In the last match at Messina, the Cs & Rs. and L.Ws. were tied in 1st innings, and in the second the latter were beaten by one run.

ARRIVE MALTA

16 April – Sunday

The fleet sailed from Syracuse on Friday the 14th (in consequence of small pox breaking out) and arrived here yesterday forenoon, so at present in this Harbour are congregated a middling sized fleet for these days, viz: Lord Warden, Caledonia, Prince Consort, Defence, Rapid, Pandora, Cockatrice, Wizard, Growler, and Royal Oak at Naples; Jaseur at Marseilles.

I landed in the afternoon and went to five Hotels in search of Mr Hannay, Annie’s friend and was unsuccessful in my search. I found Uncle George and Aunt Fanny at Dunsford’s and today I lunched with them. This evening I attended Barracca Chapel; heard a nice sermon. On coming off had a talk with Nettleton.

19 April – Wednesday

Yesterday being my duty day, I did not go ashore until the evening, and then I went to the Opera to see Lucia di Lammermoor.

26 April – Wednesday

Last Monday played for six hours at fives and in the evening meant to have dinner with the Gilbards but had to stay on board until 8 pm. Then I went with them to their box and saw pieces out of several Operas; Albani taking the principal part, it being for the benefit of one of the buffos who is very ill.

Next day (Tuesday) dined with the Gilbards, and met Capt. Brownrigg there, who took off several people and related a good many amusing incidents of Irish life.

After dinner, went to the Fancy Dress Ball in undress uniform. My Aunt going in a most gorgeous costume, that of a Moorish Jew. Ethel went as a little Tetuan Moor. Uncle George in costume of an Infantry Officer of 19th Century. I danced half a dozen dances or so. I felt very tired and unwell. Miss Yelverton wore a superb dress, as Anne Boleyn. Miss Porter looked very nice as a Shepherdess. Hood had a nice dress on of a Neopolitan fisherman. I spoke to both Admirals, and Admiral Y. was very kind to me and told me whenever I wanted to come back, I should. I told him my father was very pleased, whom I heard from that day. Heard about that blackguard G--- from him.

29 April – Saturday

Lunched today at my people’s. Played fives all the day. Plodding through Gibbon’s Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. Shall have to read it through several times before I shall be able to remember any of it.

2 May – Tuesday

Yesterday, being Officer of the Guard had the pleasure of boarding the South Packet Pera. I was awaiting her in Quarantine Harbour, and she steamed across, to my surprise, and entered Grand Harbour, causing me a good deal of inconvenience. I paid 4/6d in “go carts”, so being Officer of Guard is not a sinecure by any means. Lunched today with the Gilbards; played fives in the afternoon.

3 May – Wednesday

In an argument some time back (with one of our worthy members of the faculty), about the negro, I was worsted, not having thought much about that race. After dinner however, I drew a short sketch of the negro, as I thought him then and do now.

The negro is naturally more debased than the white man, in consequence of the curse pronounced on Ham’s descendants of God. The negro’s ideas are dull and few. His natural good and bad qualities, about the average of the human race, but the country and climate they live in is unsuited to civilisation in the manner that the white man possesses it, and that misfortune of climate and country being against them, the ideas and good qualities they inherently possess are never brought to perfection, or their full growth. They are always seen, even where Europeans live, in a semi-barbarous state, the influence around them, not being strong enough to break them from their ancient customs. But, I venture to say, if a lot of black children were taken from their own race (as they are now) and brought up by civilised teachers, who should stand to them in the light of fathers and mothers, they would not be found so very unlike their contemporaries of the white race – always bearing in mind the argument first used – I think it is most unjust to treat them like so much cattle, as if they had no soul, no feelings and to cite instances seen of them in their barbarous state on the Coast.

7 May – Sunday

Dined last night with the Gilbards, having in the afternoon taken my Aunt out calling, and for a pull in their skiff – called alongside the Grimshaw’s yacht Mariquita. Little Ethel sang the Grecian Bend very well. The more I see of her the more I like her, always so good-tempered and full of tact and sense for one so young.

Went on board the Lord Warden to church this forenoon; asked White to dine next Thursday. Last Friday dined at the Stevens, Corradino House. Met Commander Wood, Pringle and Fitzroy there. They gave a very substantial dinner. Afterwards Maud and Alice sang together, I joining in the chorus.

9 May – Tuesday

Last night dined with Lindsay at the Gilbards, and went to the Opera afterwards to see Martha which was very good.

11 May – Thursday

Went up with White, after dining with me, to the Stevens. We had a very pleasant evening singing etc. etc.

13 May – Saturday

Dined yesterday evening with Uncle George and afterwards went to the Porter’s At Home. The balcony being lit up with coloured Chinese lamps. The engineer’s band played and we had several dances. I found it dull at first, hardly knowing anyone. Left about twelve.

14 May – Sunday

Lunched on board, heard from Home. Wish heartily this Queenstown Affair was settled. I think my father has a good chance, and think the invitation to Mr Goschen’s ball a good omen. Called on Aunt Fanny, who is far from well. This place I’m sure does not agree with her, and she will have to leave. Ethel looks so pretty in her sailor’s hat with Rapid on it. In the evening attended the Barracca Chapel with Nettleton.

16 May – Tuesday

All during the middle part of yesterday, I played at fives and had my match with Forbes for the handicap. He gave me six and I licked him hollow, thus winning the 2nd prize, 6/–. I shall play Hodgkinson for the 1st, not that I think I have much chance of winning. The heat is getting rather oppressive.

Heard of Nettleton’s ungentlemanly trick in speaking to the Captain behind my back, who I’m thankful to say puts little faith in what he says. I think Nettleton is the most boorish, unmannered and ill-tempered cub I have met for some time. The Rifle Match is going on now. Yesterday one of our marines got the 2nd prize.

17 May – Wednesday

Dined last night with Uncle George. About 10 went to the Opera Door for 10 minutes to hear the quartet in Poliuto. Today I have been on board nearly the whole time; played a little at five’s, lost 2/– foolishly by a bet.

A most oppressive and enervating sirocco wind has been blowing all day and tonight. The Caledonia in hoisting out her steam-launch this afternoon, carried away her main yard fair in the quarter, the boat lodged on the Sheet Anchor. Providentially no one was hurt. I must find out the cause of the accident. In pulling by, I offered Capt. Cochran to assist if I could be useful, but he declined.

18 May – Thursday

Have just come off from the Sod, having lunched on board the Mariquita yacht, a very nice lunch indeed. Fourteen sat down, including the Brandreths, Domvilles, and Mrs Salmon. Had it on the upper deck. After lunch went to see the Athletic Sports at Fort Manoel, 87th Fusiliers. I pulled Uncle George and Miss Grimshaw ashore in the former’s skiff. The sports were not very good. There seemed few entries for everything. I like the Grimshaws very much.

After the sports went off with Lindsay and had tea on board the yacht, then landed at the Marsa Muscetto Steps and came ashore. There is a very fine St Bernard Dog on board the yacht and likewise a nice little monkey, called Jacko (my soubriquet). The Grimshaws live in Cheshire and stay out here another year, cruising about. A regular family yacht. Being Roman Catholics, they carry a priest on board, by name Father Bell; seemed a pleasant fellow.

22 May – Monday

Sunday last (yesterday) dined with Uncle George, having attended the evening service in the Barracca Chapel, and heard a very nice sermon indeed.

23 May – Tuesday

Yesterday, the Queen’s Birthday, was kept with the usual honours; ship being dressed and salutes fired. I pulled Aunt Fanny and Ethel round from Quarantine Harbour, to the Grand Harbour, picking up White and we then laid off the Barracca and saw the ramparts manned and the feu-de-joie, fired. It was not much of a sight, and certainly not with the trouble of pulling round. In the evening, after dinner, went to Corradino House, and passed a pleasant evening there, singing etc. etc.

Heard from my dear father; I am afraid he stands little chance of getting Cork. It is a great disappointment.

Today, Tuesday. Called on the Grimshaws, with Lindsay, in Captain Gilbard’s skiff; found them at dinner and told the two girls we would go away for 10 minutes, and then return, which we did and had a chat with them. I like them very much, being very nice people.

Coming off to the ship, I went up to the Naval Parade ground and saw the small arm men and field batteries, going through a series of manoeuvres, and being inspected by the Admiral. There were not many people there as spectators; marching past was not good. The remainder were passably fair.

25 May – Thursday

This afternoon went ashore, with the intention of practising singing, and was doing so when Mrs Salmon asked me to accompany her and the Miss Grimshaws and Mr Webb out riding. I managed to get a nag, and we started about 5 pm rode out to Civita Vecchia, stopping at the St Anton Gardens on the way. I was quite surprised at seeing such a place in Malta. It is of moderate size. Of course one has not any shady walks, but altogether I think they are no discredit to Malta. We had great fun on the road. The young ladies ride most furiously, and didn’t spare their horses.

We fetched Civita Vecchia about 7 pm and after remaining a few minutes surveying the view, for Civita Vecchia is situated on an eminence of small height. The country shows a great deal of cultivation; one does not observe it unless you go up a hill, or some height, from the road, little is seen. Of what I could see, it seemed to me every available patch of ground was utilised. Wheat is grown considerably. Passed numerous groups of (what Mrs Salmon says they are called) sucking monks.

Challenged both of the Miss Grimshaws to pull a race in a pair oared skiff, and was accepted. Arrived in Valetta a little after eight. Had some dinner at 17 Strada Scozzese, and came off.

27 May – Saturday

Heard yesterday of Admiral Heathcote getting Cork; feel so sorry for I know it must be a great disappointment to my beloved Father. But I feel sure God, All Omnipotent L’omniscient has his own good purpose in ordaining it so. I trust we may all have faith and trust in Him.

I went up in the evening to Corradino House, and had some music. I have come to the opinion that the Miss I...s are not over burdened with too much learning, but I’m afraid that it is the same with all women, more especially girls in general.

In the afternoon, changed some books for Mrs Salmon and walked out to Sliema with them; had a most dusty walk. Found her at home. She has a nice house and fine garden, including a small croquet ground. Had tea (Mrs Brandreth came in) and I departed.

On my way I went in to see ice being made. I was surprised to see how simple it was. The manner of making it is thus: Fresh water is put into tins in the form of slabs and surrounded by cold sea water, of the temperature of 20 degrees, to which temperature it is lowered by means of an air pump, which extracts all the air from it. It takes six hours in making, and is sold at 2d a pound. It has been blowing a Gregale for the last 30 hours and is just abating now.

29 May – Monday

Attended the Barracca last night; dined with the Gilbards. This morning the Southampton Mail coming in. Heard the gratifying intelligence of my Father having been made a KCB as well as a well merited reward for his long arduous and zealous services.

Pulled Aunt Fanny to Sliema and back in her skiff; called along-side yacht Mariquita to lend Miss Grimshaw a book.

DEPART MALTA

2 June – Friday

This evening at 5.30 steamed out of Grand Harbour, picking up the savage lump in Bighi Bay. I was in hopes of our not going until the morning. Lindsay, Webb and I had asked the Grimshaws, Gilbard, and Mrs Salmon to ride out into the country and have tea, so it was a great disappointment in our sailing. This afternoon Lindsay and I called on them all and told them of our plans being so thoroughly upset.

Lindsay called on Albani and got her photograph, at which he was very pleased. Last night I went to the Opera to see Martha and Auld Lang Syne, it being an extra night and for the benefit of Signor Leonardis. The enthusiasm was very great on singing of the Scotch song. The 48th Band were on the stage to accompany the Orchestra and soldiers to assist the chorus. She had to sing it twice and everyone, including the Governor and Admiral, standing up whilst she sang. She was cheered tremendously and I never saw so much applause elicited before in any house. Heard from Henry today; his letter gave me pain.

ARRIVE SICILY

4 June – Sunday

Off Point Molini, at single anchor in 12 fms, within three ships length of the shore. Yesterday afternoon, we had stopped steaming and were jogging along under very easy sail towing the salvage lighter. The weather gave many indications of change, thundering etc. Under plain sail, staysails, on the starboard tack. Wind suddenly shifted from the Eastward to Westward, taking us aback, stopping our way, and the lighter forged ahead, charging us, and came on starboard Bow, rolling against us, bending the shank and stock of Bower Anchor, staving in a couple of planks, splitting chains. Rain poured down, very heavy. The yards were all swung round (instead of only the after ones and spilling Head Yards, which would have taken our Bow off), and we hugged each other for some ten minutes, till fortunately the wind fell and we came clear. The towing Hawsers fouled screw and gave some trouble, but were soon cut by screw. There was a good deal of confusion on deck. The Captain soon gets nervous and loses his head.

5 June – Monday

This forenoon, we up anchored, and fired at a target. In the afternoon anchored and I went ashore for a walk with White, Sub Lieut of Flagship. We walked to Aci Reale about three miles from Point Molini. The country looks very pretty, so green and covered with trees. The road is simply cut out of the lava and (the side walls are lava) which makes it hard walking, but for the last half of the way, trees grew each side of the road, shading it and giving it a pretty appearance, the foliage being very green and thick. Aci Reale itself from the sea, looks compact, imposing and a fine city, but entering it, the idea is at once dispelled by the ruinous appearance of the houses and desertion of the streets of any life and vehicles. It is the most lifeless of any Italian town that I have seen and reminds me on a larger scale of Horta in the Azores. We had some capital strawberry ices at a cafe and then we looked into several churches and went over the Bellini Opera House, comparatively new built in 1869 or 1870, and opened by Albani in person some time back. She sang last night there Lucia and created great enthusiasm. It is a pretty House, not so big as the House at Malta; it has four tiers of boxes about 60 in number and contains about 140 stalls. We saw the machinery for working the scenes etc.

This forenoon, whilst laying off firing a very pretty scene for tableau was seen by the ridge of hills running along the coast. Catania on the left, standing on a tongue of black lava by the sea. Aci Reale about 10 miles to the right on a plateau; Mount Etna forming a magnificent piece in background, its huge sides sloping gradually down and one side gradually being lost in the ridge of hills by sea and ending at Catania.

6 June – Tuesday

Walked again up to Aci Reale with Joe Lindsay; passed large groves of lemon trees, growing each side of the road. Made an unsuccessful attempt to get Psyche’s boilers up; too much swell.

7 June – Wednesday

Wizard came in. Heard from home. A small batch of promotions including Joe Lindsay.

This afternoon I walked with Nettleton to Catania, doing it in 1 hr 40 min from the landing to the Grand Hotel. It was fearfully hot and we walked at a tremendous pace. Came back by train, 2nd class, 1 franc 25 c to Aci Reale, where we saw Albani off. Walked back to Point Molini with a lot of flagship fellows.

Round and near Catania, there are large fields of lava, it being heaped up in the most extraordinary way. It must have been thrown up, as where it stands now for it seems too far to have come down from Etna. A few miles from Catania the soil has the appearance of being very rich and fine and well cultivated. Lemon groves claim supremacy over anything else. Just as the little Bay of xxx opens you catch a highly picturesque view with Cyclops on the left of the bay, and the ruins of a castle, perched up on a mass of lava on the right. The village of xxx at the head of this little bay and at the foot of the hill, from which you look down, makes the whole scene very pretty. The road was very dusty and not very interesting.

The guard made a great row about Nettleton’s dog and only as a great favour allowed us to take him into the luggage van. On arriving at Aci Reale we were suddenly seized on and had to pay for the dog. I suppose a fine. Evidently they had telegraphed on.

Had a delicious bathe from the ship; the water is warm and clear, and bottom can be seen at 12 fathoms easily.

8 June – Thursday

Today, the Savage after weighing a boiler, the slings broke and it sunk in 20 fms. So No 1 has gone for good.

ARRIVE MALTA

11 June – Sunday

We came in yesterday forenoon, having taken off 16 hours running across, making 6 knots an hour.

Today I lunched with the Gilbards, and called on the Grimshaws, with Lindsay; told them how delighted Capt. Wood would be to give them a tow, so Mrs G. wrote and asked him, and he said he would do so.

I should have mentioned that 3 boilers were raised, successfully and parts of the machinery. I heard of this ship paying off here, so immediately spoke to Pritchard about staying in here, in next commission as I am now.

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