Embedded Files
22 JULY 1878 - 4 FEB 1879
ARRIVE KOBE
22 July – Monday
Arrived at Kobe this afternoon at 1.30 pm and tomorrow I start off for Kyoto the ancient capital, with a couple of other fellows, and return Wednesday night.
26 July – Friday
On Tuesday morning after a substantial breakfast on board, Stewart Bourke and I started in a Sampan for the shore, taking our luncheon with us. At 9.40 am we left Kobe in the train, travelling 2nd Class. Browning accompanied us. Of course Webb came to the Station two minutes before the train started and had forgotten to go to the Consulate to get his passport, so he could not get his ticket.
Skirting round Osaka Bay, we arrived at Osaka after an hour’s journey and finding we had to wait an hour and a half for the Kyoto train, we determined to take a drive into Osaka in a Jinriksha. But we did not get away until we had given up our tickets, which we were very loath to do, as the Jappers could not speak English and our Japanese was very limited.
We galloped into Osaka, careered through the streets, stopping at some curio shops. We found everything very dear excepting bronzes. I tried to secure an ivory jinrik with a man in the shafts and a lady in the seat for $10 but could not get the man under $13.
Back to the station, managed to get our tickets back again and had lunch in the waiting room. The Kyoto train soon rolled in containing the Admiral, Captain and Webb and seating ourselves in it, off we started for Kyoto, some 35 miles off Osaka.
Kyoto lies at the head of a long vale, high ranges of hills either side and forming a cul-de-sac, the hills each side being in fact nearly a continuation of the coast line of the Bay of Osaka and meeting just beyond Kyoto.
The whole of this large plain is almost entirely grown with rice (being grown in the usual small paddy fields) and the irrigation is very well carried out. Where the paddy fields are removed from any river or stream, they have a reservoir for water in one corner close to the p--tub, and each is baled out by means of the contrivance rigged up in nearly every paddy field, a pole with a cross pole slung in the middle, and a stone on one end, a lever of the first kind.
Passed a great number of storks and paddy birds, the latter are something like storks but have not the long neck and wings are grey.
At 2.30 we arrived at Kyoto and were soon in jinrikshas with two men, tandem fashion, one in the shafts, the other with a strap over his shoulder and cord fast to the shafts. We all happened to be going to the same Hotel Hakamariya, the best in Kyoto, close to the Gion Temple, and it was most comical to see our procession set off, the Admiral loading and then Captain and followed by 6 more jinriks. I had a most comical leader, he pranced and capered about most ridiculously. Arrived at the Hotel. We disburdened ourselves of our gear.
The Hotel is Japanese, rooms being formed of sliding panels and screens etc. in room. Beds are put up for Europeans and you dine European fashion. Stewart and I went out for a cruise round the curio ships and we bought 40 odd fans for 10 cents a-piece. It was most fortunate for us, our hitting off this particular time for our visit, for we found Kyoto en fête on account of a feast to the God A---, one of their old Generals deified.
The Authorities had taken it in hand. The streets were lined with lanterns, nearly every street in the town had them. About every 15 feet apart, each side of the street, a pole with a cross piece was stuck up and a large Japanese paper lantern suspended, and over these in the principal streets, Japanese umbrellas were spread.
Even before they were lit up, the effect was very pretty so it can be imagined how very pretty and picturesque it looked at night-time, especially as each lantern had some coloured device on it. The city was crowded and one was struck at seeing how orderly every one was, no shoving or rowdies about, no drinking etc. They were like a lot of angels compared to an English crowd.
Through Kyoto flows a broad river, some 5 to 600 yards in breadth, and at this time of the year it is shallow, averaging some 12 inches in depth and numerous dry spots in the middle and about it. Well, just about the centre of the town, the whole river was covered with small tables, covered with matting and placed on trestles, so as to raise them a few inches above the running water. At each table was a large paper lantern and parties of two, three or more would take a table, squat on it and with a small charcoal stove have their chow and smoke. Boards on trestles enabled you to walk along and between these tables. At the dry spots race-courses had been improvised one of them at least 300 yards round and flaming beacons stuck up round them.
The people began their chow at 5 o’c about and it was kept up until nearly midnight and the effect of these thousands of lanterns and their light reflected on the running water, appearing every now and then, was most unique.
The multitudes of people moving about in the streets and on the river, the Joss Houses lit up, streets illuminated and the pretty little Musimes in their picturesque dress got up to kill, made it a sight not to be missed and but rarely to be seen. The perfect good humour and thorough enjoyment of those present shown, was quite and only Japanese.
Some streets contained attractions in the shape of the Theatres, Performing Dogs, and Monkeys, conjuring performances and sleights of hand, of which some were very good and some poor.
At 11.30 the lights began to go out and at 12 o’c nearly everyone had gone home, and after a thorough inspection under my mosquito curtain, I went off to sleep too, having a very good bed and nice little room, although one of my partitions would not slide quite close to, but it does not matter very much for everything is paper, excepting the four walls of the house, which are bamboos interlaced, filled in with mud and plastered over.
Next morning I got up at 6 o’c and went up to see the Gion Temple, a very large Shinto Temple. The bell is always contained in a separate house and hit by a suspended beam. This one is very large and has a very fine sound. It stands some 14 feet high and the outer circumference of lip is about 28 feet, the depth of lip being about 8 inches.
Breakfasted, failed to get Bourke up, lying half naked exposed to the public view, and at 8.30 the Captain, Stewart and I started off in jinriks drawn by two men for Sanda, some 12 miles out, over the range of hills.
We dashed through the town and in the suburbs were going at a spanking pace, when suddenly I found myself shot out of jinrik and lying on the ground. The axle had broken off.
After waiting a quarter of an hour, we got another jinrik and off we went again, running partly along the foot of the hills and partly ascending, but soon we began to breast the hills and we had to get out and walk for about an hour and very hot it was.
Arrived at the top, into our jinriks, and a short way down we stopped for the men to eat their chow, consisting of an enormous amount of rice and some marrow (vegetable). We went in for some tea and rice. A most lively young Musime attended us, ready for anything.
Another hour and a half’s drive through a plain brought us to the banks of the river which we were to descend. We saw a great quantity of rice and tobacco grown, every foot of ground was cultivated. We crossed the river about 60 yards broad and flowing very swiftly and up at a Japper’s House bargained for one of their cargo boats to take us down the river for $3, jinriks and all.
We lunched and then embarked in a boat, some 40 feet long, flat bottomed, drawing about 3 inches of water, sides slightly shelving out and rising about 3 to 4 feet. One man in stern steering by a long oar. Another on port bow with short oar and a fellow on starboard side with pole.
Having embarked our jinriks etc. off we started, gliding along 4 to 5 miles an hour, the river running here through the plain. Soon we entered a gorge through which the river ran for some 12 miles or more, winding about through the range of hills we had crossed and most of it rapids. Sometimes we rushed past at 12 knots an hour, the water curdling up and seething round us. You saw yourself dashing straight at a rock, being steered for it and just before you touched it, the water running off it, whisked your bow off it. The men steered the boat very well, grazing the rocks and as you dashed by and going over sunken rocks, just clear of our bottom. It was very fine going along and enjoying the finest scenery in Japan at the same time. Our bottom at first, made us wonder if it was going to tumble out. It went up and down like a spring board and is purposely meant to be very flexible, in case of touching and also in going thro’ the rapids, it gives to the force of water underneath.
The scenery was changing every minute. Generally the hills were formed 4 to 800 feet high and thickly clothed with underwood. Stream, averaging about 40 to 60 yards broad, sometimes narrowing to a few feet, where the finest rapids were; average depth about 5 feet. It was very pretty scenery and at times very fine, entering some of the gorges and sometimes two gorges with rivers flowing thro’ them meeting, and picturesque tea-houses perched up on the sides of the hills.
We passed several boats being tracked back and a great number of Jappers fishing with a rod, with a 4 oz fish at the end of one hook to act as decoy, an empty hook being reserved for the guest. Unwillingly, we saw ourselves getting through the hills and entering the plain, running down from Kyoto to the Sea. Landed and jinriked back to Kyoto and our Hotel, rubbed, dined and then we were called to the front of the hotel by a Japper waiter and we saw the return of the procession to the Temple close to our Hotel.
It had been perambulating the streets all day. First came men in armour, then musicians playing a musical, but mournful, dirge boys carrying lanterns each side of them. Then a lady of our friends, the jinriksha men, dancing and jumping about, fanning each other and shouting together in unison.
Then, came the pavilion containing ... [?] very like a miniature Temple, all covered with hanging metal ornaments and it was carried by about 60 men, who held it up in their hands and kept jumping at the same time and shouting. It was a curious sight to see this affair being jumped. Then followed articles of furniture carried by men and then came the local official swells and here one’s sense of the ridiculous was keenly touched.
Old and New Japan, (I must say all carried Japanese lanterns, besides being escorted each side by boys and men carrying lanterns suspended from poles). Old Japan in their classical robes. New Japan, some in swallow tails, tall hats, white vests and gloves. Some minus the second, some the third and some wearing the national girdle over the pair of badly fitting breeks, all looking like badly dressed monkeys.
Arrived at the Temple, a lot of jumping, cheering etc. the ... [?] was landed and the same process went on twice again, with two more of these.
Bourke created no small stir amongst the populace, he being tall and big. A lot of Jappers policemen followed him about behind and Capt. D--- and I saw them measuring themselves up against him, they came up to his arm-pits and waist.
From the Temple we migrated down to the River and knocked about there some time. Stewart, Bourke, and I had some riding on the race-course, in the middle of river, much to the amusement of the Jappers.
Next day we started for Osaka. Arrived there we made a tour of the City, the Japanese Venice, it being interlaced with canals and rivers. We did the Fort, a very massive affair, and very strong and ancient and back to the ship.
DEPART KOBE
27 July – Saturday
Started for Yokohama.
ARRIVE YOKOHAMA
28 July – Sunday
Arrived at Yokohama, found here a large number of vessels, English and Foreign.
29 July – Monday
Went ashore, bought some ... [?] cabinet.
3 August – Saturday
Went up to Yedo and called at the Legation. Lunched with Sir Harry Parkes and then hired a jinrik for 50 cents to drag me about from 2 o’clock to 7 o’clock. First, I went to the Mikado’s Park, it being really the old Fort of the Tycoon. It is very prettily laid out with fine trees and picturesque lakes. Then after some time, we got out of the region of Forts and Barracks and the Official Quarter and paid a visit to another very pretty Park, Ueno’s, and had a very good view of the city which is immense. Like a huge village, trees growing up everywhere, as nearly every Japanese House has its little garden and tree behind.
To Asakusa. Saw the Fair going on and fed the Pigeons and then to the best Japanese Theatre, capable of seating some 1500 people (Japper fashion). The play was an historical one.
Back to Legation and had a very interesting tête-à-tête dinner with Sir Harry Parkes. Lady P. being in the country. He gave me a lot of information about the country etc. Came down by the late train.
6 August – Tuesday
Mail came in Sunday. Was distressed to hear of dear Meta’s very nearly fatal illness, but glad to hear of her being better.
Russian ships left this morning. Vsadnik homeward bound. Cheered her, then returned.
11 August – Sunday
Went up yesterday with Stewart to Yedo and cruised about the town all day by the aid of a map. Went to Asakusa and saw some very good figures. As far as I could make out, made from some kind of plaster. Infinitely better than Madame Tussauds, being very lifelike, so much so, that you could not tell the difference between a living Japper and a model. There were some 20 groups, all in different attitudes etc. Dined at the Club.
14 August – Wednesday
My 28th birthday, and thank God enjoying the best of health.
16 August – Friday
This afternoon, Sir Harry Parkes, accompanied by the Chinese Ambassadors, came on board, one a blue-buttoned mandarin with tail and the other a red-buttoned fellow with tail and some smaller fry. We exercised at General Quarters for their behalf. They seemed much struck at the way the guns were worked. They had intelligent faces and seemed sharp sort of fellows.
Dined with the Admiral, a large dinner, Sir Harry being there. Two Yankees, General Van Burn and Coles of Monocacy tried to outdo each other in wonderful yarns.
17 August – Saturday
Land and Hurlstone of Magpie and I started off at 10 o’clock in jinriks for the large image of Daibutsu. Dupuis of Frolic was to have joined us but he did not turn up. We hired jinriks for $1½ for two men to take us there and back, with 25 cents more if they pulled us well, the roads being very heavy owing to the last night’s rains. We went the shortest route, via Kamakura, and took 4 hours going out.
Near Kamakura, stood the ancient capital of the Shoguns and at Kamakura stands a good sized Temple (Shinto) containing relics of different Shoguns, some very large swords and of great age. A curious stone, stands under a tree and is visited by men and women who are desirous of getting families. It is curiously carved and used.
The large image of Daibutsu is about a mile further on, in a small village close to the sea. It represents Bhudda in the usual sitting attitude and from base to crown is 66 feet. I measured the nail of his thumb and it is 7 inches long. Inside these is a very large space, the figure being quite hollow. In fact, it is a bronze casting, the several pieces being soldered together and the core taken out. It was very warm inside, the sun beating on the metal, which at some parts is very thick. It evidently once stood in a Temple as the foundation stones stand all round. Close by in a Temple in a dark room stands a large wooden figure, about 30 – 40 feet high, gold lacquered and when lights are hoisted up to show you the Figure, the effect is very marked.
We drove back in our jinriks in 3½ hours, having lunched at Daibutsu in a large Tea-house. Musime very considerately, on my pointing out a hole in stocking, knuckled down and soon stopped it up. Our jinrik men were most lively, joking and skylarking the whole way there and back. As soon as they got into country, they stripped to a gantline. Some of them were very well marked with tattooing. We got back at 8 o’clock and gave the men $2 for the pair of men for which they were most grateful. They ran us nearly the whole of the 36 miles. James, who accompanied us back from Daibutsu, riding, came on board with me.
19 August – Monday
Started off by the 7 o’c train, with Robinson, portmanteau in hand for Yedo. Got up at 8 o’c and jinriked at once over to the Gun Factory. Was met by a Captain of Artillery and an Aide-de-Camp of the War Minister, who showed us over the grounds and workshops. The grounds originally belonged to Prince Mito and some parts of them are still laid out in gardens and walks.
Some 3,000 workmen are employed. The conversion of Enfield Rifles to Breechloaders, on Sinders and Arinmus principle being the chief work. They convert some 70 a day, at an average cost of $3 30 cts. Plenty of plant and very good machinery, nearly all of it either English or French. I did not see any rifle bands being made, but I don’t doubt that could be done readily enough if required. I saw some shell being prepared (or the moulds I should say) for casting, but the very large shells and guns are made at Osaka. They made some very nice 32 Pdr rifled Bronze Guns at Kagoshima.
After looking round the work-shops we went to a very pleasant little pleasure house and had some refreshments and then looked over the gardens, which are very nicely laid out.
Lunching at the Legation, we then paid a visit to the naval School, a very large place. Met Mr Kitchener there and had a good look round. It has the makings of a very fine place. The cadets are very smart. Work the heavy guns as well as any Gunner, and the wire roping better than any Ldg Seaman in our service. A magnificent full sized model of a line of battle ships, completely equipped.
A look at the Taxi Oki Odima [?] about 70 feet high. Went inside, saw the Babe in the Wood, put my feet through the nostrils and head through the eye.
Dined at Seiyoken, and back by last train to ship.
Letter from Father.
20 August – Tuesday
Japanese Ministers visited the ship. Went to General Quarters and fired some torpedoes off etc. for their edification.
22 August – Thursday
Went with Captain in steam Pinnace to Yokosuka, Took 2 hours going the 11 miles, against wind and sea. Roused up Mr Sutton with his charming little daughter, had tea and a visit over the dockyard. Very nice little dockyard. Excepting the making of armour plates, I don’t see why they should not turn out everything for a modern man of war. Introduced Admiral Eto, blown up in the Civil War. 1600 men employed.
23 August – Friday
Went ashore and had a yarn with Lady Parkes. Met Mr Johnston who knew my father in China.
25 August – Sunday
Dear Francie’s 18th birthday.
We were to have gone to Hakodate yesterday, but an émeute broke out amongst the troops of the Imperial Guard, who broke out of barracks and fired indiscriminately about the place. More pay being the battle cry. Promises as usual were made. Now all is quiet again and we leave tomorrow morning.
DEPART YOKOHAMA
26 August – Monday
Left this morning. Magpie in company, for Hakodate.
30 August – Friday
Fired at target this morning and anchored off Hakodate about 4 pm. The Town is situated at the foot of a clump of hills, that resemble Portland Bill and Rock of Gibraltar rolled into one –being connected by a broad strip of sandy ground to the mainland. Exports largely seaweed and salt fish.
ARRIVE HAKODATE
31 August – Saturday
Richards, Robinson and myself went ashore. Had a look at the curio ships and took our luncheon out to a very pretty tea House with gardens and water nicely laid out around. Strolled about and back to the Town. I invested in a What-Not, gave $5½ for it, and then took a look over the Pentagonal Fort. Guns mounted en barbette, traverses between [?], 10 guns, 4 of 9 inch, 6 of 6 inch smooth bore, bronze guns of Japanese manufacture. One Magazine close under sea front. Bomb proof entrances protected by traverses. 5 guns on the two seaward faces, respectively.
4 September – Wednesday
Yesterday morning, the Captain and I started off on ponies for the Lakes, some 18 miles out and got out there at 3 o’clock, going out at an amble nearly all the way. We took a man and pack horse with us. The road is undergoing a thorough renovation and in time will be a very fine road. Trees being planted about 5 yards apart all the way out and the road will be macadamized in the centre. At present, most of the way, great square heaps of earth and stone lie in the middle of the road and you are obliged to go along at the side by a footpath. Our horses were very much troubled with large flies that drew blood and were most determined in their attacks. About 12 miles along the road we entered the Pass, and reaching the top, 900 feet, had a very fine view of the plain, running down to the sea and the Rock of Hakodate, which very much resembled Gibraltar.
We soon got to the Inn and unloaded our horses, and went out on the Lake to try our hands at fishing, getting a canoe dug out of the trunk of a tree, but got the most rude kind of oar, no paddles being procurable. The consequence was, that on getting into the middle of the lake and a slight breeze coming on, the canoe, notwithstanding our utmost efforts, went spinning round and round like a top, and we had to let her drift to the lee-side of the lake and get out, our fishing coming to a premature close. Not much lost, as the fish to be caught are of the smallest kind imaginable
Went for a walk, but found the mosquitoes too much for us, so returned to the Lake, had a bathe and returned to the Tea-House, made ourselves a very good dinner and smoking, turned in, sprinkling the room all over with camphor and rubbing insect powder into our hands, face etc.
Had a very disturbed night, what with cocks crowing, children crying, hens cackling, Jappers snoring and smoking and the women talking.
4 September – Wednesday
Bathed in the lake before breakfast, and at 10 o’c took to horse and with our baggage went across the hills to the big lake, skirted round the edge, through the woods, much bothered with mosquitoes and horse flies, which much took away from the pleasure, and eventually got back to Hakodate at 4 pm.
6 September – Friday
Went out in boats and beat to Ammunition.
7 September – Saturday
Robinson, James and I took our guns and went out shooting for the day, going over both marshes. We did not see very much, as both had been done that day and the day before, by Willoughby, Pike and Pearce, who got over 30 couple of snipe, some duck and quail pigeon.
8 September – Sunday
Mail expected. Took the Communion, after returning with the Roman Catholics.
DEPART HAKODATE
10 September – Tuesday
Left for Vladivostock.
11 September – Wednesday
Blowing half a gale against us. Ship very steady, pitches somewhat. Volunteered to keep 4 to 6 watch at sea. Granted.
ARRIVE VLADIVOSTOCK
13 September – Friday
Entered Vladivostock Harbour in company with Magpie this afternoon. Willoughby and I stationed in the Pilot Tower, by Admiral. Took notes of Guns, Fortifications etc. but I made more “Ticker” by stationing Hunter up at Topmast Head, instead of Mast Head Man and he brought me down very full information. Counted 16 guns in all. Castle’s plan not over correct.
The Harbour is a very fine one, capacious enough to hold several large fleets and very well sheltered. The easiest way to get at any shipping or bombard stores, would be to remain outside, go round Point by South Channel and throw shells over, getting the Aim from Mast Head.
14 September – Saturday
Out with Willoughby and Pike to the 1st River, some three short miles out. We took our guns and worked all the way down, putting up snipe and a duck or two, securing a few snipe. Lunched at a small Russian Brewery and afterwards went out and did the marshes, putting up a large number of snipe and in the Cover adjoining, a fair amount of pheasant.
Brought a fair bag back with us, Willoughby contributing the lion’s share. A dog is invaluable, more especially in getting the pheasants up, they lie so close.
15 September – Sunday
Remained on board. Most delightful weather.
16 September – Monday
This morning at 5 o’c a large party of us; ten Mids, Goodrich, Pearce and I, started off, after an early breakfast at 4,30. A very merry party in the cutter for the Island at the entrance of the Harbour, all taking guns, which included an assortment of every kind, Central Fire, Pin Fire, 12 Bore, 16 Bore, muzzle Loading Single Barrel, Double Barrel etc. A slashing breeze took us along and we arrived at the place we intended, some 7 miles off ship, a little after 7 o’clock.
Landed our grub and very soon the 13 of us marshalled ourselves in line, after firing an odd shot or so at the few snipe we had disturbed by our early arrival. A very few minutes after entering the wood a deer was started and ran thro’ the line. An indiscriminate, inept firing took place all round. I believe I was nearly shot at, my white solar hat saving me from being mistaken for the deer. At any rate he got off.
We had hardly got another 100 yards up the hill when a fine Buck got up and ran half the length of the line, through the very thick brushwood. Bang, bang, bang, etc. etc. etc. 7 double barrelled guns were fired at the frightened animal. He actually stopped and looked at Bourke for 5 seconds, but the melting look in his eyes took Bourke’s courage away and he could not let drive, until the animal was off showing his stern. I think the deer must have had a sore or two, but at any rate he got off, not very much the worse for the Fusillade. There was much laughter as we listened to one gun after another going off.
After working thro’ the wood for about 1½ hours we got to a small swamp and there the fun began. Our line had got somewhat broken by this time. 7 Mids. were in the marsh. Goodrich and I on top of Hill. Suddenly a snipe was put up, four guns were discharged, some double-barrelled. Snipe gave a wild swoop and got clear, all down in swamp. Back came snipe and settled about 100 yards off. Came along the Mids, stalking him up, got snipe. Off went four guns and three more guns on the outskirts and snipey gave a dart and off he got clear this time.
Bourke, Pearce and someone else hearing the fusillade, suddenly appeared over the brow of hill, running as hard as possible, imagining some hot corner for pheasants had been discovered. The whole scene was so comical I sat down and split my sides with laughter, everyone else at last doing the same.
The rest of the forenoon we stalked, all over the country. Could not get the birds to rise at all tho’ there were a lot pheasants about. We sadly wanted a dog or two.
At 4 o’clock we all collected and had a good square meal, soup, game pies etc. Vegetables being found by a Manchurian there and splendid ones they were. After dinner and a smoke the non lazy ones got up and started off again. The lazy ones reclining in the arms of Morpheus a few minutes longer.
Webb, Tip Stewart and I went off together and soon started a deer, but not near enough for a good shot. A Russian pug dog cruising about, put up a fine hen pheasant which I shot, not 15 yards off, flying past me. My shot broke both his wings and brought him down, dead as a herring. The remainder of the afternoon, I saw nothing, although thick underwood most of the time, you could not get the pheasants up at all.
Stewart left us at 3 o’c done up. Webb and I got back just before sunset and found Stewart had not turned up. Much shouting firing guns and a search party was just being instituted when Pearce firing at a woodcock, just escaped hitting Stewart who turned round the corner at that moment.
A regular good feed, the G Room being food caterers and at 7 o’c our bag being 3 pheasants and a few snipe. We started back, pulling, there being a light breeze against us, but after a short time, sail was made and we got alongside soon after 12 o’c, songs being the order of the day the whole way back. I never heard such a variety and sung in so many songs.
Altogether we had a most jovial day and we all enjoyed ourselves very much indeed.
17 September – Tuesday
Employed the whole afternoon, having a look at the Russian Batteries, for the best place for attacking shipping and stores. Had much difficulty in getting what I required owing to the number of officers and men about.
I thought I had left the nude behind in Japan, but going along the Road, a woman (Russian) came down and stripped herself and bathed before a lot of men at work and remained a long time besporting herself in water, not a bit abashed by the male population around.
Had a big dinner on board this night, the ladies and Russians dining with Admiral. The Governor is away on his tour of inspection. His wife and sister in law (all being Germans) remained behind.
Mrs Governor told Core she tried hard to get a woman for nurse who was not a murderess, but could not succeed. All the women are the worst female criminals in the country. The men are sent to Sakhalin to work in the mines and get dreadfully treated by those over them. The men at Vladivostock are not the worst of their kind. One fellow came up to the doctor and told him he was a Pole and expatriated for some rising.
The Harbour is a very fine harbour, capable of holding several Fleets, well protected from all winds. Its fortifications are not up to very much, but could easily be made. I spent all the afternoon having a quiet look at them from the tops of hills etc and sent in report to Admiral and a very easy and feasible plan of shelling stores and shipping, pretty well secured from the fire of the present batteries.
DEPART VLADIVOSTOCK
ARRIVE NAGASAKI
24 September – Tuesday
Arrived here Sunday 8 pm, receiving mails on coming in. Heard from Father and Francie and also that my Gunnery Pay for time of travelling had to be refunded.
We had a very strong blow against us Friday and Saturday, then suddenly the wind chopped right round to the Northward and blew quite as strong in that direction. We shored on all sail and got 9 knots out of her, steam and sail. Found that on the 12th they had the fag end of a typhoon at this place.
Paid PPC calls to the Russian and German ships this morning, in company with Goodrich (Vsadnik and Albatross).
DEPART NAGASAKI
26 September – Thursday
Admiral left in Vigilant for Shanghai. Magpie and ourselves for Hong-Kong. Captain dining with us this evening.
3 October – Thursday
A fine passage down, carrying the monsoon down with us through the Formosa Channel. Had a full speed trial and target practice coming down. Averaged 9·5 kn by Patent Log and 10·5 kn by Log. At Hong Kong we found a French Mail and that our English Mail had gone on to Shanghai.
ARRIVE HONG KONG
4 October – Friday
Coaled ship. English mail coming in, brought me a letter from home. All well and a good deal of gaiety with Meta and Francie at home, going on at Sheerness.
Dined with Harry Kelham at 74th mess, a very good dinner. They all seem a young lot of fellows. Purchased a lot of silk to give away at home. Paid a visit to the Battery erected at the North Point. 5 guns, 7 inch BLR, a very nice little battery.
6 October – Sunday
Holy Communion. Topping sowing mischief again between Executive and Non Executives – failed – I don’t think he means to do it but he is quite mad on that point. Went ashore to afternoon service and heard Mr Henderson preach.
7 October – Monday
An indignation meeting called by Reary and 63 others was held in the City Hall this afternoon. Some few days ago a party of about 100 pirates came to Hong Kong at night time, seized a steam launch, got up steam, posted sentries all round and attacked a Chinese Jeweller’s house and were at work about an hour before being discovered.
They made a fight for it and gave some very nasty wounds, being armed with fire-arms and spears about 20 feet long, and the Police at first only had their staves. After a good fight, they retreated leaving one dead, but carrying their wounded off and got away in the steam launch.
A most daring and skilfully laid plan, and for some time past and particularly lately burglaries by parties of 8 to 10 have been very frequent, so that it really is not safe to go out after dark without a revolver. The Brigade Major, the other night at the 74th dinner, rather startled me by coming well armed.
A great deal of this is owing to the Humanitarian Policy of Pope-Hennessy who would scarcely hang a man convicted of murder and almost abolished flogging and let the law about every Chinaman carrying a lantern and pass fall into disrepute, but now they are being enforced again. P-H does not bear a very good character, endeavouring to force the regular people out of billets and putting Popish Portuguese in their place.
The Indignation Meeting is to protest against present lawlessness and insecurity of place, after so many years of safety and quietness. The Meeting adjourned to the Cricket Ground, the Governor’s Party having packed the Hall with Chinese. Very strong resolutions were unanimously passed, there being only two of the Governor’s nominees to oppose. Every trading merchant of every race, all joined in, declaring the state of things was unbearable and condemning the Governor’s conduct.
10 October – Thursday
Harry Kelham dined with me.
11 October – Friday
Admiral came in with his Flag at the Main of Vigilant. He had some rough weather coming down.
A typhoon passed to the Southward of the Island, beginning of week. We only got the northern extreme of it, but found it advisable to strike Lower Yards and Topmasts and get up steam. One steamer outside passed a hundred dismasted junks and any amount of wreckage.
17 October – Thursday
Came back from Canton yesterday, whither Stewart and I had been paying a visit. We left on Monday. The first thing I saw on going into the saloon of the Kin Kiang, was an arm-rack intended for the use of the passengers, or rather I should say the rifles and pistols placed in the rack; and a notice informing you the arms were loaded and it appears that the Chinese on board cannot be trusted.
These steamers carry between 1 & 2,000 [?] each trip, and it was only 4 years ago, the Chinese rose and murdered all the Europeans and then plundered the vessel. Now they are locked in on the lower deck.
At 8 o’c we started and soon passed through the Cap-sing-Mun pass and past Castle Peak and Pirate Bay, the latter Bay well deserving of its name. Past the Bogue Forts, the old ones much the same as they were 20 years ago, and one or two new Water Batteries. Past Tiger Island, up the Rino [?], and then up to Whampoa, the Docks with all but one exception, being in ruins. As one went through the Reach, the thoughts of the splendid Fleet of Indiamen riding in these waters, passed through one’s mind. At one o’clock past the Barrier Forts, now in ruins.
The Junks sunk in ‘57 were never removed, so the consequence has been, that a bank was formed right across the River, leaving a channel at the side. In amongst the hundreds of boats (the Boat Population being between 40 & 50,000), past the Dutch Folly, now no longer a Fort but covered with houses, and alongside the Wharf and made fast.
We soon made our way to Clayson’s House, who kindly offered to put us up. Nine years ago, a blue-jacket in our Service, now a Deputy Commissioner of Customs with his £1,000 a year. After depositing our gear at his house on the Sharren, we went out and did our shopping, buying all manner of silks and Pekin Enamel. Gauze silk was $6 for the piece 22 yds. Choefee [?] Silk $5½, and Silk Handk’s, 3 for 10.
The next day, taking Archdeacon Gray’s Boy for guide, we sallied out in chairs and paid visits to all the places of interest in the City. Temple of 5 Genii and the 500 Genii; the latter contains 500 Images. One is supposed to be Marco Polo, the features and dress being European. Visited silk manufacturies, flour being made, carving and lacquer ships, Pagodas, Execution Ground. Saw the Cross on which Lin-chi is performed and lunched at the 5 Stoned Pagoda. Then finished up by visiting the Examination Hall.
Examinations take place every 3 years, lasting one day, open to every one. There are some 7,000 cells for the Candidates in the open air, in rows of 70 to 60. Once a man goes in he is not allowed out until he has finished Examination. At Pekin I believe there are some 20,000 cells.
DEPART HONG KONG
ARRIVE SINGAPORE
3 November – Sunday
Singapore. Made a good passage down from Hong Kong in 9 days, light and variable winds. Very warm in ship on the passage, 94° in the Upper Sick Bay. Came in here Friday last. Found Iron Duke, Modeste and Fly here. Paid visit to the Iron Duke.
Cleveland is very crotchety in his ideas of discipline and consequently his ship is not very comfortable. Expect Admiral Coote, the 10th, and we shall probably leave the 14th or 15th for home. Had a budget from home. All well.
10 November – Sunday
Admiral Coote came in and at once hoisted his Flag at the Fore of the Iron Duke, and saluted our man, who returned ditto. Admiral Coote, Staff and Captain of ships, dined with our man. I dined also, sitting next Admiral Coote. Renewed the acquaintance Maitland-Dougall, a very nice fellow and a great friend of Meta’s and Ned’s. Dined last night with Mead, Capt. Modeste.
14 November – Thursday
Iron Duke’s dined here last night; a long dinner.
15 November – Friday
We dined on board the I.D. last night. There was a great function after dinner on deck. A large number of our fellows from the G.R. also being on board and some from the shore. McCallum being one, a young Engineer Officer (he took Kennedy, Robinson and myself over the Forts he is building here and making a very good job of it too, last Monday). Lots of singing with very loud choruses and then parting cheers and we pulled back to our old ship, and this morning cheering ship, we started for home. It was curious Kennedy, Robinson and I being such friends of the S---’s should knock up together in this part of the world and many a long talk have we had about the girls.
DEPART SINGAPORE
ARRIVE TRINCOMALEE
25 November – Monday
Arrived at Trincomalee this afternoon, having experienced a Southerly current the last two days. The voyage over was much the same as our usual cruising. Received a letter from Russell, who states his intention of coming home and going about with young Chirnside. I hope he will not do so.
28 November – Thursday
Finished coaling this morning at 7 o’c. We commenced to coal Tuesday morning and went on until 8 o’c each night. The coolies work so very slowly ashore, filling the lighters. I attended at the coal sheds each day for 12 hours, not that I could do much but Durrant was very anxious to push on, and thought I suppose, we would expedite matters by having someone watching the coal.
The Euryalus we missed by two days. She thought we had gone to Galle. We found the Wild Swan in. That bear, Dacres in command. She is a very pretty looking craft and sails very well. Met an old shipmate of mine in her.
Devil Drink has been at work again. 1st Lieut., D.S.S. [?], and tried to run a sword through himself; Carpenter going home in us and a fine Ldg Sea. dying of consumption, getting drunk and laying all night on the pier at Aden. I also heard that in the small detachment of R.A’s at Trincomalee, there is a Gunner who was very lately Paymaster in the Spartan and can’t even keep his Corporal’s stripes.
Went ashore with Durrant and paid a visit to the Fort built by Parravivium, 1767. I see the authorities are making preparations for mounting some more heavy guns, in addition to the 12 ton already got up.
We sailed at 11 o’c cursing the washerwomen who have lost and brutally abused our washing. I lost 7 pieces and my washing not mangled, nor ironed. Clarke had a collar given to him, the remains of a shirt. They seem to have put the washing on a stone, strewn sand on top and taken another large stone and regularly holystoned the linen and I’ve got to go on to Malta, five weeks or more.
DEPART TRINCOMALEE
1 December – Sunday
A strong current with us down the coast of Ceylon and following us round to the Westward. Hitherto out of the Monsoon, unfortunately however we hope to pick it up soon. Took the Communion today.
9 December – Monday
Fine breeze from the Northward. We should be off Socotra tomorrow and get into Aden, Friday or Saturday.
ARRIVE ADEN
10 December – Friday
Arrived at Aden after a quick passage of 15 days from Trincomalee. A most barren looking rock.
14 December – Saturday
Leave until 3 pm so I very soon started off with Aplin, Bourke and Sandilands to walk out to the Tanks.
Soon after landing an irresistible desire took Bourke to ride a camel, so a passing camel was stopped. Boy bribed to get off and Bourke (230 lbs) went to get on, asking Sandilands to give him a leg up and not throw him over the Camel, which taking into consideration Bourke’s weight and camel’s height was not very probable. Sandilands, in giving him a leg up, got a leg from the camel in the shape of a kick and down came old Bourke.
Nothing daunted he made another gallant attempt and succeeded in placing himself athwart the camel, sitting on a straw saddle, and off he went at a walk, soon a trot and then a run as the animal’s feelings got excited. Under the influence of ‘Sporto’ backing and Sandilands in his rear heaving stones at his quarters, Bourke was soon jumping up and down in a most uncomfortable way and also gradually working back towards his tail, when to our intense amusement Bourke was seen on top of the large straw saddle to gracefully make his exit over the animal’s stern and alight on his legs. The straw round the hind legs of the camel effectually hobbled it, and we all roared at seeing the scene. I noticed Bourke was not keen to ride another one.
We ultimately fetched the Tanks which are at present quite dry. They do not get rain here for years sometimes. The Tanks hold some 30,000,000 gallons, but I fancy they condense all their water. Aden is strongly fortified. A Japanese corvette and French transport in.
We sailed at 4 pm leaving our messman behind, but fortunately the grub is on board, but still it is a very great nuisance the man missing his passage.
Got a tremendous lot of papers etc on board, six mails I think. I got five letters. All well at home. Mr Boyce, so Francie tells me, wanted to marry her but the RE officer was not successful. I hope the dear girl will marry some good Christian man who will love her and guide her well.
Russell, I hear is going to be Managing Director of a Company in Victoria. He goes up to grow Olives and they got a grant of 1,000 acres free from the Government. He certainly is a wonderful fellow. Robbie’s 21st birthday. Every good wish attend him.
DEPART ADEN
15 December – Sunday
Passed the S of Perim this morning, the P & O passing us at the same time. Asked her if she had our messman on board; No.
The story of how we obtained Perim is curious and authentic. The French had their eye on it and despatched a Frigate to take possession, but running short of coal she put into Aden. The Governor asked the Admiral to dine and during the dinner under the influence of Bacchus, he let out what his destination was and the reasons, etc. The Governor being a sharp sort of fellow, kept the Admiral in play as long as he could, and in the interim, despatched an English Gunboat away as fast as possible to hoist the English Flag on the Island of Perim. So on the French Frigate getting there they discovered to their disgust and surprise that the Island was English, so they seized the point on the mainland opposite. I hope they are satisfied. In Vino Veritas.
ARRIVE SUEZ
24 December – Tuesday
Suez. Arrived here this morning. Been shipping extra piece of rudder all day.
25 December – Christmas Day
Spent very quietly on board. What with a long sea cruise and off such a place as Aden, there is very little liquor knocking about.
Corfe preached a very good sermon this morning. About the best I’ve heard him preach, alluding to our being so close to spots visited by our Saviour. We passed Mount Sinai Monday morning, just seeing the top for about a couple of hours when it opens out, clear of the higher mountain in front and in the evening, we passed the spot where the Israelites are supposed to have encamped, it being the beginning of the Valley leading up to Mount Sinai.
A party of our fellows went out to Moses’ Well, some six miles out. An oasis of three small patches, each about 200 yards in diameter. It is one of the resting places for caravans to Mecca. The water comes out from the top of a cone of sand and irrigates the ground close round, which grows vegetables etc. and Palm Trees.
TRANSIT SUEZ CANAL
26 December – Thursday
Started from Suez this morning at 8 o’c with a head wind, or rather one on the Bow; two steamers astern. Bucketed about from one side of the canal to the other and at 1 o’c having got 10 miles from Suez, got toggled right across canal, and remained there for 3 hours, preventing the P & O Mail Deccan from passing, and the two astern also could not go by. I think they were much disgusted at our making a three day’s job of it for them, instead of two.
At 4 o’c after much hauling and carrying away of hawsers, we got off and repeated the operation of bounding from one side to the other. Twice our screws touching, brought up the engines dead, once going 40 revs. and once 30 revs. Some P & O passengers came down to meet us and wished us a Happy New Year, three ladies amongst them.
We got the band up and played marches to them, to which they stepped out in proper style, the ladies going over the sandhills like 3 year olds. Much laughing and chattering going on. Our Upper Battery Deck crowded with officers and the booms and F’cle with men, who at the least thing cheered and clapped. A ladies parasol going inside out was the occasion for one, and each lady got one on getting up a steep sand hill.
Two young people, spooning away, dropped behind and the quick eye of Jack soon twigged what was going on, as in fact we all did. Shortly, some of the Rear Guard of the P & O’s turned round and picked up the two would-be unconscious stragglers, which elicited a cheer and much laughter from the Bluejackets. I heard one fellow say to his chum “Well Bill, this is a pleasure seeing some English ladies again.” I suppose our dried up countrywomen abroad don’t suit Jack’s taste.
At 5 o’c after farewell cheers they set out for their steamer which was close to in a Gare and it being dark we made fast to the Banks about 16 miles from Suez.
I noticed this evening our 90’s Gun, on being fired gave a series of rolling echoes.
28 December – Saturday
Last night we gared at the Station the Suez side of Kantara. The station-master came on board with his newly married wife, to listen to the Band. A very pretty little thing. She came down in the W.R. just as the wine was going round. Passed the Euphrates at Kantara, close work. She was full of troops, principally drafts, cheering and band playing etc. went on.
29 December – Sunday
Arrived at Port Said this morning at 9 am and prepared ship for coaling and are getting in 400 tons and hope to leave about 3 pm for Malta. I had a walk ashore and never saw a more vile hole in my life, especially the Arab Town. The Kaiser-in Hind, P & O came in just after us. She averaged 13·5 kn from Aden to Suez.
Left this evening at 6 pm and had some little difficulty starting as she had got aground astern, but just as we began laying out hawsers, she came off. The Egyptians in the small gun-vessel, were most anxious to assist, sending a boat and gave the Admiral a personal salute, which we returned, as soon as we cleared the Light House.
One blade of our starboard screw is very much bent. We are going 48 rev. with S.S. and 38 with Port Screw and yet carry 3 turns of Port Helm.
1879
DEPART PORT SAID
1 January – Wednesday
Another year broken into and I thank God, I see its advent in health and strength and my family unbroken in numbers, and I pray Almighty we may all be spared to each other during this year and for many years to come.
Dined last night with the Admiral, who told some wonderful stories of reconciliation. Making but slow progress through the briny, only going 4·5 kn instead of about 7·5 kn owing to screw being bent.
VISIT MALTA
19 January – Sunday
Left Malta this morning. We arrived at Malta on January 9th with but 18 tons of coal in our bunkers, having had heavy blows from the Westward, which necessitated us laying to. It was very close work and we had to be very chary of our coals. We found Lord John Hay here with Minotaur, Agincourt, Defence and the Raleigh and Rupert, belonging to the Mediterranean Squadron. Any amount of letters, papers etc. Salutes interminable.
Edward particularly desired me to make Mrs Lawton’s acquaintance which I did and found her a most charming person, a young widow, a most pleasant manner and face. She is out here for the winter as she is very delicate and rarely goes out. Her young sister, Miss Thomson is staying with her and also her young sister-in-law, Miss Haywood. They were most kind to me during my stay at Malta. I quite made their house my home and met the girls often at the At Homes etc. Last night I dined with them and then took the girls to the Opera where Aplin joined us, and we had a very pleasant evening.
Friday night, the Minotaur gave some private theatricals in the Opera House. The House was simply crammed from top to bottom and it was a very pretty sight. The acting was uncommonly good, especially Foote and Matthews, and I’ve rarely seen a better make up for a woman than Leveson. He looked like a very pretty girl and acted his part very well. The stage was literally covered with bouquets. It was certainly great fun. It would have been better I think to have left out one piece for three pieces make the evening rather long, and to have put a hornpipe in.
It was given in aid the Thunderer’s Fund, for about a fortnight ago whilst out at Target Practice, one of her 38 ton guns burst, killing 9 men and 2 officers and wounding 40 others. Either the shot jammed or else it was sucked out by the rammer, withdrawing the papier maché wad, thus drawing the shot out too. It did it once before. The after guns, 35 ton, have not got the wad and are loaded by hand, taking 2½ min – 1 min longer than the hydraulic loading.
Jack Stewart shewed me all over the ship yesterday excepting the Turret which is closed until after the Court of Inquiry is held. Gibson says he has a pretty good idea how it happened, but of course he also is not allowed to say anything about it yet. I paid a visit to the Hecla yesterday and had a look over her and one of the Thornycroft launches.
AT GIBRALTAR
28 January – Tuesday
We arrived at Gibraltar early on Sunday morning and soon lashed alongside the New Mole. Edward came off and glad I was at seeing him. He was looking very well. Gilbard came off in all his war paint from the Governor’s. Lunched with Ned and then a turn up to the signal station and to evening service, dining with the Gilbards, Lily looking very fit, somewhat matronly.
Monday. Gilbard, Lily, Ned and I, and also a young lady, Miss Atwood, went out for a ride (Gilbard mounting me) taking our lunch with us. We went through San Roque, and the two Pine Woods and tiffined at the Crags, and altogether had a very pleasant ride. Dined at the 42nds mess with Ned. Made Moubray’s acquaintance and yarned away with him, knowing his people very well.
1 February – Saturday
In Sounding at 8 pm. Left the Rock at 8 o’c on Tuesday morning and have had a slashing fine breeze astern from Cape Trafalgar right across to Ushant. Hope to anchor Plymouth Sound tomorrow night.
ARRIVE PLYMOUTH SOUND
3 February – Monday
Arrived last night. Went ashore this afternoon and paid a visit to the Sailor’s Institute and had a yarn with Miss Weston. I was very pleased with my visit.
I then went over to Torpoint and paid old Lady Hillyar a visit. It certainly was very wonderful to see an old lady of over 90 years of age so clear in her intellect and to hear her talk of Lords Nelson and Collingwood and dining, when a married woman, with the Captains after the battle of Trafalgar at Gibraltar.
I was sorry to find Elise not at home. Her little girl is a dear thing.
4 February – Tuesday
Admiral’s Flag came down last night. Today dear Meta is 27 years old. Left Plymouth this afternoon for Chatham.
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