HMS DRUID

[Wooden screw corvette]

1879

AT SHEERNESS

February

Commissions Druid at Sheerness.

29 March – Saturday

Left Madeira this afternoon for Bermuda and Halifax.

On arriving at the Nore (in February), two letters were put into my hand, one asking 12 or 14 of my messmates to dinner and the other stating I was to go as 1st Lieutenant and Gunnery of the Druidwith Captain Kennedy, one of the most dashing fellows in the Service and one of my Father’s youngsters and greatest friend. The ship going to the Fisheries on the N American station and to hoist the pennant the 18th February.

The Audacious remained a couple of days at Sheerness, and so I soon bundled all my gear out of her. Of course I was delighted with the appointment for many reasons, not the least being that I shall now be really able to wipe off my debt.

I had a very pleasant time at home, Meta and all being there. Grannie getting better. How short I found the time. I had looked forward to four months ½ pay with my dear old Father and my sisters whom I love so much. Francie has grown such a very pretty girl and manages the house so well, 19 to feed daily and she presides so very well as the lady of the House, and looks so charming, and so does Meta. It was quite painful to think of leaving them. Edie and Ella grown and looking very jolly. Ella promises to be the beauty of the family.

Whilst commissioning I had very hard work, sometimes only getting over to Admiralty House for an hour in the whole day, but I generally managed to slip over after dinner and I had settled everything for the night. The Mids. went over very often and we had great fun dancing, the girls teaching the youngsters to dance etc. The ship was inspected twice by my Father, once in the Basin and the second time when in the stream, hoisting boats out, etc.

––––––––––

26 May – Monday

St John’s, Newfoundland. Had a capital run out to Bermuda. Sailed nearly the whole way. Found Flagship here and several other craft made fast alongside Mole, and had capital times. We got great friends with the Flagship’s. Many friends of mine there, Pelham, Jim Barrow, Castle etc.

From Bermuda we went up to Halifax in company with flagship, Admiral Inglefield worrying us on the way up. He does not particularly care about the Druid, she having come out, quite out of his control as far as the Fisheries are concerned, and he having promised the Tourmaline a turn and not able to send her up.

We did not stay long at Halifax. I ran out and had a look at Thorndean and remembered the old place well, although more than twenty years since I was there.

––––––––––

May 1879 – October 1880.[No diaries exist covering the first part of the commission. In general the ship’s programme consisted of visiting Newfoundland and Labrador in the summer and the West Indies in the winter.]

1880

AT ST JOHNS, NEWFOUNDLAND

22 October – Friday

St John’s. Spending our last stay here very quietly. The Flamingo and Contest have gone, the former to Bermuda to pay off, and the latter to Halifax, to join the Flag.

Spent last evening with the Stubbs, Wallis accompanied me. Had a good deal of singing, the eldest has a very good mezzo-soprano voice.

Vainly endeavouring to put a second coat of paint on the yards and masts.

29 October – Friday

Dined last night at the R.C. Bishop’s, an amusing dinner. One of the priests called out the names of the guests, each one being coupled with a priest, and in we went sitting down 24 to dinner – a very substantial good dinner. When the wine came on, the Bishop called on Shee for a song, and Captain Somerset kept the ball rolling, several others sang, including priests. His Lordship did not favour us this evening – he sings very well – but the Naval element carried the laurels off, with their singing and good songs.

DEPART ST JOHNS

31 October – Sunday

Left St John’s for Bermuda, Friday last. Mrs Kennedy went home the preceding day, the Admiral having refused permission to let her take passage down to Bermuda in this ship.

1 November – Monday

Experienced a circular storm, but of no great violence, force 9 at times. Wind blew from SE for 24 hours until noon of today, when the centre passing over us, it came from the NW and soon cleared up. We had wore ship, several hours before it shifted, coming to the starboard tack, so were on the right tack. Bar – fell to 29·76 for the shift. When the centre passed over us, it fell quite calm, with a very heavy and confused sea, the water breaking in all directions.

3 November – Wednesday

Fine weather and fresh NW breeze.

ARRIVE BERMUDA

7 November – Sunday

Came in yesterday and made fast to a buoy. We carried a fair wind right through the Narrows, and brought it on the beam, up to Grassy Bay. We came right through the Narrows under sail alone, and had fires out, by the time we were through. We got hold of the Buoy alright, but our hawsers are all so rotten and worn through getting Flamingo off, that it carried away with the slightest strain, and we had to drop an anchor under foot.

15 November – Monday

Crocodile came in this morning, Northampton, Forester, Flamingo and ourselves in the Camber. Busy refitting but I do not think our engines will be fit and fixed for use, before three weeks and then we shall go down to Jamaica. I went over to the Admiral’s, or rather Lady McClintock’s, At Home, last Saturday. Very slow work, so after smoking a cigar, the Captain and I came back in Pinnace.

Had long letters from Home. Francie in difficulties – Russell at his old game.

19 November – Friday

Intended giving a large dinner on our Quarterdeck last Tuesday evening and had rigged up awnings, flags etc. very nicely. The guests to the number of 30 were asked. To our utter disgust at 4 pm the wind shifted and down came the rain, and despite sails under our awnings, we could not keep the rain out, and at 6 o’c having held a council of war, we decided to put off 15 of the guests – and so the Flamingos and Captains came only. We squeezed all hands into the W.R. and Captain’s cabin. After dinner, we adjourned to the Quarter Deck and smoked and the Captain made a most amusing speech, in proposing the health of the Flamingos, which Comdr Hall replied to.

Tamar came in this day.

21 November – Sunday

Walked out to Somerset, had tea at Mrs Swan’s and cheered old Bett up, he being rather low in spirits, and seedy. Went to St James for the evening service, very cold and the clergyman, like Penny, rattled over the Prayers, a great deal too quick. Congregation not large.

10 December – Friday

Yesterday at 5 pm we buried our late Messmate Bett, who died at 9.30 that morning. He would not invalid at Bermuda though strongly advised to by every one. The consequence was that as soon as we got into warm weather, he got very ill, intermittent fever, liver being out of order, and for four days before his death, he was out of his mind, and never ceased wandering.

His mind filled with all kind of horrible ideas and the consequence was his brain never getting any rest, he really died from exhaustion. But we were all taken by surprise, for he had got so much quieter, that we imagined he was getting some rest and falling into sleep, but it was the sleep of death.

It was a very sad ending and it makes me very sad too, for, poor fellow, he disbelieved in a future life and though accepting a Supreme Being, went no further. He leaves two sisters who lived with him. His obstinacy helped to kill him. He was a very good hearted and kind man and did many good deeds, especially to the poor people round the coast of Newfoundland.

DEPART BERMUDA

Most curious weather, though only 100 miles from the Mona Passage and in Lat. 19° N. not a sign of the NE Trade, but hitherto generally light southerly breezes.

12 December – Sunday

Calm weather steaming along the coast of Haïti. Nearly went on top of Monito Island this morning, it suddenly coming on very thick, and a set having taken us 12 miles to the Eastward since afternoon sights.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

25 December – Saturday

Port Royal, Jamaica. We came in here last Wednesday week and picked up our buoy under sail very well. We have had quite a little Squadron in here – the Blanche, Phoenix, Contest and Forester. But Thursday last the three former left for different places and we remain here to spend our Xmas.

It is difficult to imagine it is Xmas time, it is so piping hot. However D.V. I hope next year to be home. How I long to be Home. It is so long since I have had a spell and one has seen so little of one’s family.

There is quite a small society down here now, Warry and Mrs Warry, Yockney and his wife, Penfold and his future wife. Commodore Brown is a great improvement on Ward and though a good service man, is very sociable and a capital host. Mrs Warry is doing much good here, getting up Bible readings, which I attended the other evening and visiting the Hospital and reading to the sick.

1881

DEPART PORT ROYAL

5 January – Wednesday

Preparing for sea. We leave this afternoon for a cruise round Haïti, first touching at Port-au-Prince and returning to this place the first, or second week in February to meet the Flagship. Had no letters from Home by the last mail. Am afraid they must have gone adrift.

Today Penfold, my old shipmate, got married at Kingston to Miss Hudson, who came out from England a couple of days ago. They spent their honeymoon up the Hills, at a place Col. Mann had to give up, on account of its inaccessibility.

All the Squadron have decamped excepting ourselves.

ARRIVE PORT-AU-PRINCE, HAITI

10 January – Monday

Port-au-Prince, Haïti. I shall have some curious and interesting remarks to offer upon this Island and its inhabitants, but I shall first write down the impressions that I received and then the facts which are undoubted and given on the best authority (that of the British Minister, who has lived here for some years) and I must state the horrible and ghastly things, that I shall note down bye and bye, that are well known and have been reported to the F.O.

We came in here on Friday evening, and picked up a very good berth, having a half moon to light us in. Next morning we shifted a little further in, and the daylight gave us an opportunity of seeing the place.

The country is very hilly and mountainous – with valleys that will grow practically anything but, owing to the extreme laziness of people and the frequent revolutions that take place, coffee is about the only thing grown, and that does everything for itself, leaving the people the trouble of picking it, only.

Port-au-Prince the capital stands at the head of a very good harbour, and the end of a long and fine valley that terminates in a swamp, close to the town. The town itself is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants.

It presents a most rickety and tumble down appearance from seaward, and on landing you are not undeceived for it literally stinks. The sewers, stagnant, are in the middle of the streets and the houses are all in pieces and altogether in a very bad condition.

The Revenue is derived solely from the Customs, there are no roads in the interior and only villages in the country, though 540,000 is stated to be the population of this part of the Island.

The Captain of the Port, a Mulatto, came off on Saturday and paid us a visit. His ship, the Sentinel, about twice the size of our Pinnace, is the only Man of War the Haïtians possess. One was run down by the West Indian Mail and another blown up last year, during a revolution.

We arrived just in time for a grand Ball given by the merchants of the place to General Salomon, the President, and at 8 pm the Captain and 18 officers rigged up in their war paint left the ship in charge of the Gunner, and proceeded to the shore.

We had no difficulty finding the Rooms, gaily lit up and a guard en toile, and crowds of blacks and Mulattoes round the doorway – and soon found ourselves surrounded by gentlemen of every hue and type of countenance. All very civil and introduced us to the ladies who were sitting round the room – and it seemed strange at first to see a thorough negress sitting next a lovely girl, cheeks with the bloom of the peach on them, and chatting away in the most friendly way. One big buck nigger, asked tenderly after our Doctor, and said he was a brother chief.

A flourish of trumpets announced the arrival of H.E. the President, and the Guard all differently rigged out, surpassed the Gens d’amis in Genevieve. H.E. entered the room, accompanied by his wife (a lady of the Parisian demimonde) quite a white woman and not bad looking. She has several illegitimate children (and one came out in the Mail today), by former friends. They were followed by aides rigged up in the most extraordinary rig, feathers and plumes – some thorough niggers, others yellow. The President himself is about 64, quite black, but thin lips, white hair, and a very fine looking fellow, he is about 60 years of age.

I did myself the honour of dancing with a very nice little English girl – a Miss Byron and the next a polka with a young lady, complexion black as a lump of coal – the crush and crowd was tremendous and most of us slipped away at eleven o’clock – but those who remained had some amusement in listening to the speeches at supper. Madame made a most effective one and carried away the audience.

Next day Sunday, H.E. the Minister came off to Service, and at 4 pm the President, accompanied by two Generals and his major-domo, came off and went all round the ship. As he came in quite a semi-official way, we did not man yards. I had a most amusing conversation with the factotum, or valet, of the President. He called his master a buck nigger, but all the same stood in great awe of him. The President himself is a thorough old gentleman, most courteous and speaks French most fluently. He was Ambassador at St James for many years and has been at Windsor etc.

On Monday, the Minister, Captain, young Single (Mid) and myself, rigged out in full war paint, went ashore to call upon the President. We drove up to the building, doing duty as the Palace, and were received by a guard of about 20 men all rigged out in the most extraordinary manner, who hugged their rifles and grinned.

A band on the right struck up a march, and we descended from the carriage and led by a couple of Generals (there are 2,000 odd to an army of 10,000), we were ushered into the audience Chamber, another Band playing God Save the Queen, and on it went. Of course we were standing waiting for it to finish, the Generals keeping making signs to sit down.

The Band went on and it became rather ludicrous, the Captain shoved his face into his hat and went off and I very soon was splitting too. The Mulligan Guards outside, and everything connected with the performance seemed so absurd.

At last the Band stopped and the President came in and sat down between the Minister and the Captain, I on the Captain’s left, and we sat for ¼ of an hour yarning, the Band playing valses etc. Then we all made tracks, headed by the President, to his sitting rooms and Madame came in, well powdered, and after drinks etc. we took our departure.

In the evening we all went out for a ride and paid a visit to Madame, at her country house. The country is most beautiful.

For the character and state of the inhabitants: The pure Blacks predominate, being about 9/10 of the total population – _ of which two thirds are women. No white man can own land in Haïti. The Blacks are cannibals, child stealers, serpent worshippers, most skilful poisoners and members of the most secret society, the Voudoux.

The R.C. Religion is professed, and there is an Archbishop, 4 Bishops, and 90 odd priests. But those who profess the R.C. religion are amongst the worst. It is professed and kept up, together with a thin veneer of French polish and manners, so as to pass muster into civilised countries, when ambassadors are sent out. These undoubted facts are known at the Foreign Office.

The Blacks of Haïti come from the M.... tribe, about the Congo, one of the most noted tribes for cannibalism on that coast. During the time of the French occupation cannibalism was suppressed, and the sacrifices consisted of goats, cocks, etc, but now and for years past, black children are butchered by the hundred.

The three great festivals take place at Xmastime, Whitsuntide and Easter, the meetings are held in secluded spots, and the children are brought in and their throats cut. The victims must be black and of pure African origin, and under 10 years of age.

They are drugged and then carried away. Everything is most secret connected with the Society, and as every one very nearly belongs to it, every man and woman is afraid of their neighbour, any complaint and woe to the complainant. Vengeance, swift and sure, is taken.

The Priests are most skilful in poisoning and can poison in any way, slow and quick, painful or painless, and they can reduce people to a state of coma and keep them in that state for several days and then bring them to again by antidotes and this is the general way they do with regard to the children. Not content with eating children, they are very partial to digging up for tepid corpses and devouring them. What they do not eat, is salted down.

Some fearful cases have come to light, but it is soon hushed up and no one dares say anything. Fancy women drugging a child, and when it came round, piercing its side with tubes and sucking the blood. Another gentleman, highly respected amongst the European community, was found with his family eating human flesh, and this turned out to be the son of a gardener to an Englishman.

The British Minister and the English gentleman Mr Maxwell-Savage, are the authorities – though this case happened 1862 and the same goes on. The British Minister has reported all this to the F.O., but dares not do it more than in a confidential manner, for as he says his life would not be worth a minute’s purchase. He says (Major Stuart, a very cautious and safe man) that he understates the enormities and that human flesh has been sold in the market. He showed Capt. K. most reliable documents and told him how he got his information, and that it has all been reported at home.

Of course his means of information are very sure and reliable, and curious enough Mr Maxwell-Savage last night, corroborated in the main everything that had been written down on these pages. He thought it might be a little exaggerated, but at the same time, said he had been out of the country many years and could not know much about it. He said all the Haïtians, or most of them at the Ball the other night, had pistols and said the chances are the President belonged to the Voudoux Society.

The Minister says hecatombs of children are sacrificed yearly and eaten, and that there are not 20,000 people out of the 500,000 that are not connected with the Voudoux Society. The Voudoux priests have entire control over the bodies and souls of all members, so they say, and the members believe.

VISIT ST MARC

12 January – Wednesday

Left Port-au-Prince yesterday and arrived the same evening at St Marc, anchoring in 19 fms. and hauling our stern into the shore. It is quite deep right into the shore. There is a General here with 1000 troops on paper.

VISIT GONAIVES

13 January – Thursday

Came to an anchorage off Gonaïves last evening, fine large bay. The town is well laid out, two thirds was burnt down during the last revolution in 1879. This town, resisting the present President, some 500 of the townsmen were shot.

A large party of us went out for a capital ride, fine spirited brutes, that took us along at the rate of knots.

VISIT PORT HAITIEN

16 January – Sunday

Port Haïtien. Came in yesterday, the town is two thirds in ruins, owing to the earthquake of 1842 or ‘48. Evidently had been the leading place in Haïti. Very numerous reefs, about the entrance, extending for miles, generally breaking heavily.

From all I can hear, about the Bulldog affair, it was quite unnecessary for her to endeavour to ram the small Haïtian steamer, as the thing would have surrendered with a blank cartridge. Salnave’s party were making a revolution and had seized this small steamer. The Yankees favoured Salnave, and we were in favour of the opposite party, viz. the Govt.

When the Bulldog got ashore, a good fire was kept on her from the people ashore, principally from small arms, but little damage done, until the men going in the boats, tried to get her off, but could not budge her.

She had gone right up on top of the rocks. She might have got off if the Yankees had helped, but they refused to lend any assistance, so the Bulldog had to be abandoned.

I was much amused this afternoon watching part of the garrison at drill. It made me laugh. The men falling in anyhow, any rig, all talking and grinning, an officer to every five men. Drums on the right, beating a tattoo at the slightest provocation. It was a great sight seeing them deploying etc. Sometimes one section would march off the ground, another time they would all get hopelessly involved, and the officers would disentangle the men, pricking them up with their swords.

16 January – Sunday

Attended evening service ashore, the Revd Mr Kerr, coloured clergyman having just started a Church (episcopal).

Mr Kerr fully corroborates everything that Major Stuart stated, with regard to the Voudoux religion, and said that not long ago a woman came to his house, with a basket covered over, and said she had some pork to sell. Mrs Kerr was on the point of buying some, when a friend who was there told her not to and they examined it, Mr Kerr being there, and found it was human flesh, seeing the finger nails etc.

Mrs Dutton the Vice-Consul’s wife, said a coloured lady, very highly respected, died lately and on her deathbed, confessed to helping to kill a child on the steps of the R.C. Church and also inducing a young girl to drown herself.

17 January – Monday

Left Cape Haïtien for Port Plata. Had the honour of receiving a visit from the General in command of the place. A thorough black in a most gorgeous uniform. He took a great fancy to one of the Captain’s decorations by continually admiring it and saying what a fine saddle cloth it would make for his horse, so the Captain presented it to him.

VISIT PORT PLATA

18 January – Tuesday

Port Plata. Not a desirable anchorage. We are now in sight of the San Dominican Flag – Blue and Red squares, with a white cross. The Haïtian being blue and white horizontal.

19 January – Wednesday

We find that we could have gone in much further and should have been out of the rollers. From all one can hear this place seems to be far and away the best round the coast, to spend a happy day. So more’s the pity our worthy Captain rushes away, but he is a fearfully impatient man.

VISIT SAMANA

20 January – Thursday

Samana Bay. A very snug anchorage, and a very pretty little place. We came in this morning, had only 3 or 4 feet under our keel on crossing the Bar.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

30 January – Sunday

We shall arrive at Port Royal this afternoon and lash alongside the coal wharf. This is a regular Sunday working ship and I hate it and feel sure that nothing is lost by keeping the Sabbath, as quiet as possible and doing no unnecessary work.

1 March – Tuesday

Cruising off Port Royal in company with the Northampton, Blanche, Phoenix, Flamingo, Contest and Forester, performing steam evolutions and tactics in the forenoon and afternoon, and drilling at sail drill during the evening. The Squadron left Harbour yesterday and we return on Friday next.

The week before coming out was a very busy one for this ship. The Admiral inspecting the ship on Tuesday the 22nd Feb and manning and arming next day. Every one says the Druid looking like a yacht, and though I am 1st Lieut I cannot say I’ve seen many ships look better. The credit is due to those under me, who have worked well and loyally. The Flag Capt. and German Captain (Schroder) of the Nymphe and others all speak in flattering terms of the ship. The Admiral we hear is very pleased, but he has not said anything yet.

I must relate what took place on the 18th of February, the anniversary of the day we commissioned. The Captain came to dinner and after dinner Wallis proposed his health, upon which the Captain responded and spoke in very flattering terms of the Heads of Departments, and especially referred to his 1st Lieut and said he knew that I must find it sometimes very difficult to get along, through not being backed up – (for he is so good natured, that he cannot bear bringing fellows up) and much more to the same effect. Farwell begged to propose a toast and to my painful surprise got up and eulogised my character etc. that, even now, I feel ashamed to think that I should have heard it and trust I may not think myself an Admirable Crichton and my messmates so kindly applauded. I only wish I could throw off more of my reserve and make myself more agreeable.

6 March – Sunday

Port Royal. Came in the day before yesterday in company with the Squadron. We had a good week of it, evolutions all day. Sometimes anchoring at night, and out boats, stream anchor, and cable and no sooner got them inboard and it was out Steam anchor and cable and then In Boats and Weigh Anchor. We got our Bower Anchor out and Boat away ready for letting go in 19 minutes, and stream anchor in 4 minutes.

Received a budget from home – Rob in the 11th Hussars – Francie gone up to Scotland to stay with Meta – Russell in Australia.

8 March – Tuesday

The Northampton left at daylight and I am off this forenoon to stay with Mr & Mrs Ryley.

12 March – Saturday

Port Royal. Yesterday my dear father reached his 65th birthday.

The Squadron have all dispersed and now we are the only one left and we sail on the 20th for Havana.

We have had an old acquaintance here in the shape of Lord Lonsdale and Dr Kingsley in the Northumbria and much feasting etc. has been going on. Lonsdale has improved very much, and I think has a good deal in him. He takes great interest in his work, and has the yacht in very good discipline. He keeps the morning watch every morning and writes the log etc. Dr Kingsley is very amusing and very intellectual and takes great pride in the way he has carried his system out.

13 March – Sunday

One of our Petty Officers died last night at 7 pm in the Hospital from intermittent fever first caught out in Ashanti. Poor fellow was sanguine of recovery a few hours before he died. We bury him this evening in the Cemetery.

DEPART PORT ROYAL

22 March – Tuesday

On our way to Cuba, we expect to be at Havana in a few days time and then we go on to Bermuda.

Mrs Ryley is taking a passage with us to Bermuda and a Mr Mills, son of the great banker to Cuba. Young Jim Ryley spends this year with us. We are all very glad at leaving Port Royal two thirds of our time in the W. Indies has been spent in swinging round a buoy.

VISIT HAVANA

30 March – Wednesday

Havana to Bermuda. We arrived at Havana on Sunday, clipping the church service and let go our anchor about 11 am. The salutings going on, almost before we had got the last Amen out of our mouths. We let go our anchor right in the centre of the entrance and naturally spent our Sunday afternoon shifting berth. The place is very insecure, the Consul General (Crewe [?]) being laid up, with a severe cut round the neck from an assassin’s knife who attempted to rob him. We all laid in great quantities of cigars, principally from Alvarez – and country cigars – from the contractor, and large quantities of Guava Jelly from La Dominica establishment, about 10d per 1 lb.

The Almansa looking very broken backed, carried the Flag of the Spanish Admiral. We left yesterday afternoon with a slashing current and wind astern.

3 April – Sunday

Since leaving Havana last Tuesday, we have had a splendid breeze from the NW and W taking us well through the Florida Straits, and at present though blowing rather light, it is sending us along five knots. At times it blew very hard, putting us under double reefed topsails and reefed and rolling very heavily, so consequently the ship not having been caulked for some time she leaks very bad. I had my basin catching the water, that ran through the deck overhead, and I’ve been obliged to stop washing decks on account of the deck leaking so badly.

ARRIVE BERMUDA

16 April – Saturday

We arrived at Bermuda Tuesday the 5th and immediately began caulking the ship, both inside and outside; provisioning, drawing stores, coal in; refitting sails and rigging. On Wednesday the 13th we were ready for sea, sails bent etc, having gone through a good deal of work, the decks all scraped and the ship’s side scraped, puttied and painted. I hardly put my foot outside the ship.

Mrs Ryley enjoyed her stay at Bermuda very much. Everyone from the Admiral down very kind to her.

We left Bermuda yesterday and picked up half-a-gale of wind at once blowing from the SW, so a fair wind for Halifax the port we are bound to. The good ship rolled about a good deal and is very lively.

DEPART BERMUDA

ARRIVE HALIFAX

23 April – Saturday

Hope to get into St Pierre this evening. It is precious cold, water at 31° and any amount of field ice, all along our port side. We arrived at Halifax on the evening of Monday the 18th and lashed alongside the Dockyard at once.

I had the pleasure of receiving many letters from home, and on Tuesday, calling on Mr Troop first, I started for Londonderry to see my Uncle Robert and family.

Arrived at Londonderry at 6.30 pm and fetched the house shortly afterwards. Found my Aunt at home, and cousins also. The former very quiet, ladylike, the cousins great strapping fellows, the girls being young. Uncle Robert returned from Truro on Wednesday morning and was much surprised to see me. We had not seen each other for 20 years. I found him much like Uncle James in appearance.

After a rattling spin through the country, behind a fine pair of horses, and a good look over the Acadian Iron Works, I returned to Halifax bringing back with me my cousin Harry, a fine strapping young fellow.

We left Halifax on the 21st and passed a large field of ice on which we spied a walrus.

VISIT NEWFOUNDLAND

3 May – Tuesday

Great St Lawrence. We have been at several places round Fortune Bay, Long Harbour, the scene of the so-called Fortune Bay outrage, Belloram and other places.

VISIT TO ENGLAND

6 September – Tuesday

Since last writing anything in this my journal, I’ve run to England. The ship arrived at St John’s about the 18th of May and on the 25th the Queen’s birthday was celebrated by salutes, and landing our Battalion of men, which together with the Police, made up five companies of 40 men each. The function went off very well.

The 26th May saw me homeward bound in the Hibernian, Captain Wyley, very few passengers. We had a very fair passage home. On arriving at Liverpool I telegraphed to Bertie who met me at St Pancras. I engaged a room at the Grand Hotel, and went off to the Russells, at Eaton Square where Francie was staying.

I was shown up into the drawing room, and Francie came in and was taken quite aback at seeing me, imagining that I was on the coast of Newfoundland. However, I caught her in my arms and gave her a hearty kiss, which soon convinced her that I was her own brother. Of course my beard and moustache made me look somewhat different. I found Francie looking very well and very pretty, but most averse to going home.

After getting a fortnight’s leave from the Admiralty, I ran down to The Elms and made my stepmother’s acquaintance. Eventually at the end of my leave, spent partly in town and principally in the country, we all made a large family party up, in the country. Meta and her children, Francie, Edie, Ella and Robert, who went out to Australia when I left. He got his discharge from the 7th Hussars, after a rough time of four months, which did not do him any harm. Satisfactory arrangements were made with regard to Francie, and when I left everything was right.

RETURN TO NEWFOUNDLAND

After a rough passage out to St John’s, I remained a few days there and then went round to Bonne Bay in the Curlew to meet my ship. The coastal steamers are very poor.

I found all well on board, and soon buckled to my work again, after an absence of 42 days, 14 on leave, the rest spent in travelling.

We met the Indre at Hawkes Bay, and had a pleasant time with Commodore De Varenne and his officers. We made a fine haul of salmon in a pool in the small river. We could not get them to take the fly, though every effort was made for two days, so at last we were obliged to haul the Seine and take 72 Salmon, averaging 10 lbs out of it.

At St George’s Bay we investigated the row there, with regard to the French Commodore advising the settlers not to pay duty. Found it most grossly exaggerated and I see the English papers are making a great song about it.

Cadraz, the Captain and a party went away for a few days fishing. The tail end of a hurricane coming on, and it being an open anchorage, I put to sea on the Sunday, and had got some five miles offing, when the engines broke down and we could not get them to go, until the Engine Room staff had been twelve hours at work.

Eventually we got in, picked up the Captain, and cruised along the southern coast, paying a visit to Sydney, and Cochrane going off on leave to Manitoba.

We had some trouble getting into Port-au-Basque. We met the Vandalia (American corvette) at Long Harbour, Fortune Bay and had a good time with them.

I took 120 of the Bluejackets and Marines ashore skirmishing, firing Ball at a canvas target, judging their own distance. It was very rough walking, and took us half an hour doing 1,000 yards, so that the ground can be imagined. They got some 30% of shots in.

Story Harbour, going through the water some 3 knots, the engines being stopped, we steeplechased over an unknown rock, and found out we had knocked away some 9 feet of main keel, the forefoot, and half our Port Bilge Piece.

The Admiral ordered us down to Halifax, where we found the Tenedos had been doing the same sort of thing in the Bay of Fundy during a fog, only knocking more of her keel away than we did. The Divers patched us both up, and after six pleasant days at Halifax, we made for Port-au-Basque, where we nearly got on the rocks, in a very thick fog, with a heavy swell on. After cruising along the south coast, generally in a fog, we are now, Sept 6th, on our way to St John’s.

We have had a very bad summer, nothing but fogs one lasting five weeks, and I’m suffering from a bad cold and have been for the last two months, owing to this vile climate.

I’m glad to say that we are going home at the end of this fishing season, on account of the wretched state of our cylinders which are oval instead of round. I shall be very thankful for a spell.

1 October – Saturday

Roberts Arm, a most snug little harbour, just room to swing and that is all. The Captain, Sir Rose Price and Baird our Navigator left yesterday morning and hope to be in the barrens this evening, going up from Hall’s Bay. They are certain of getting some fine sport. I don’t expect them back for ten days.

We left St John’s last Monday, the day the late President Garfield was buried. We topped our Yards a-cant, and fired 21 minute guns at noon.

My home news not of the pleasantest. Though Francie is now on the best of terms with our belle-mére, Edie and Ella are getting restive. It requires delicate handling.

Had a grand sham fight in the woods, I leading the attack, Serg’t Major the defence.

19 October – Wednesday

St John’s. Returned from Kirpon (Quirpon), very cold and wintry, then 26 days together. Heard about my poor darling sister Ella.

DEPART NEWFOUNDLAND

VISIT BERMUDA

3 November – Thursday

On our way to Bermuda.

14 December – Wednesday

Left Bermuda, after a long stay there. On arriving my time was entirely taken up the first week planning and carrying out under Capt. K. a grand Torpedo Attack on the Northampton which came off in Murray’s Anchorage, then scraping, painting, coaling, drawing stores etc.

The Fantome occupying the Dock so long we did not wait for docking, but on this day, Rob’s birthday, sailed for Port Royal, going out with much éclat, the Flagship’s Band playing us

out etc. The Dido, Fantome, Contest and Firebrand are left behind, the Forester went home on being relieved by Firebrand.

I have not been at all well lately, being much pulled down and obliged to take Port wine, to get my strength up again. But I am thankful to say I am much better now, my varicose veins worry me somewhat.

I am thankful to say dear Ella is quite right. Sir James Paget said nothing was the matter with her. Meta very ill from Typhoid fever. Makes one anxious.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

28 December – Wednesday

Port Royal. My darling sister Meta, her sweet spirit gone to the Lord. It is oh! so hard to bear – but God’s will be done. She left us on the 24th November 1881 at 6 am.

1882

The following extracts until 9 May appear to be from a second journal that GKH was keeping

1 January – Sunday

I begin this year with a very heavy heart, having last Wednesday heard of my darling sister Meta having fallen asleep in the Lord. She died from Typhoid Fever at Huntingtower Cottage, Perth. Edward and Francie with her. Edward is now left with his two boys, and Aileen one year old.

31 October – Mon. Having gone out for a drive with Francie, she took a chill, went to bed and never rose again.

7 November – Mon. Edward who was staying at The Elms was told of her being unwell, and at once returned.

14 November – Mon. The darling got light headed.

17 November – Thu. She got delirious. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 21st, 22nd and 23rd, she was in a dangerous state and died quietly at 6 am on Thursday the 24th November. We all meet her, by God’s blessing.

The body was placed by the dear Mother’s in Pennycomequick Cemetery, Plymouth on Monday the 28th November 1881 in the presence of my Father, Edward and Francie.

Phoenix left for Guantanamo, Cuba. Been writing letters all day. I pray that I may live this year for and in the Lord Jesus.

2 January – Monday

Shifted top sail yards this morning. Attended a Temperance meeting this evening to urge on the men, the necessity of stopping their grog, there being 52 abstainers on the Lower Deck and only 20 stop their grog.

Captain Kennedy up at Kingston. Received a letter from Father, Bertie a 2nd at Greenwich, Baldie 35th, and only 32 vacancies, for Naval Cadet.

3 January – Tuesday

The Mail sailed today, bearing all my letters in answer to those telling me of my darling Meta’s death. They should get there via New York in 18 days time.

4 January – Wednesday

Busy since Monday, getting through drills and firing. Received a kind letter from Mrs Ryley. Sixty odd Good Templars in the ship exclusive of those who abstain, but do not belong to the society.

5 January – Thursday

Mail came this evening but brought me no letters. Contest also arrived from Bermuda, Northampton and Dido at Antigua.

DEPART PORT ROYAL

6 January – Friday

Left this morning for Havana, and picked up the sea breeze outside. Put the canvass on her.

8 January – Sunday

Had a pleasant morning service. The Captain intended to lay-to off George Town, Grand Cayman, but we found we could not fetch nearer than 5 miles without beating up, a strong current having set us to the Westward and Southward. So after sighting and getting 4 miles off, we put the hemp up.

Cold bad. I pray I may be relieved from this affliction.

9 January – Monday

Had to take to port wine again, much against my inclination, but my catarrh is so bad that I feel I should be doing wrong in setting my opinion up against Gregory’s, Fegan’s and Messer’s, who all tell me to take port wine.

Had an interesting talk with S.

10 January – Tuesday

Beating up to Havana. Lovely weather.

Dear Edie’s 18th birthday. God bless her.

Carried out some of our firing from big guns. Sent two youngsters up (besides 3rd mate) to masthead to take distance of shot from Target – great differences in value.

ARRIVE HAVANA

12 January – Thursday

Arrived at Havana this morning. Found only a small Spanish gunboat in here.

13 January – Friday

Band played in Plaza – very good one, place crowded – smells in streets as strong as ever.

Captain paid visit to Prendergast. Captain General (£10,000 a year). He has lived 12 years in Scotland, his mother being half Scotch.

14 January – Saturday

Numerous return visits by the Spanish officials. Adm. Butler being one, he claims descent from the Irish Butlers.

15 January – Sunday

Pleasant service on board. Feel much the need of someone to talk to, on things spiritual.

16 January – Monday

A pleasant luncheon party given by the Captain to Mr Crewe, Consul General, and Madame Forcardi, a Cuban lady with fine eyes and who was full of fun and life and made great use of her eyes.

DEPART HAVANA

ARRIVE MATANZAS

17 January – Tuesday

Sailed this morning from Havana, and arrived at Matanzas about 5 pm, steaming all the way. A great pity as we might have given the young seamen and officers some splendid practice, beating up, and tacking every hour, and would have not lost much time, having a strong weather current.

18 January – Wednesday

Paid a visit to the Caves, which are well worth seeing, being miles in extent and full of the most beautiful stalactites. Very warm down there and the pools of water were most tempting to bathe in. We had to pay pretty freely for the carriages – $10 paper for each carriage and $2 for entering the caves, the more annoying as we found we could have landed abreast the ships, ½ mile off the caves.

Left Matanzas this afternoon. The Captain got some guinea fowl shooting.

DEPART MATANZAS

VISIT CAY SAL

20 January – Friday

Arrived at Cay Sal this afternoon, and landed a party of sportsmen and scining party. It is only a few miles round, with a large lagoon in the centre, containing a few turtles. Shot nothing and caught nothing, but a shark alongside, 11 feet long. Shot and skinned him.

21 January – Saturday

Left Cay Sal and ran across the bank to Anguilla Cay, where we anchored for a few hours and moved on. It would not do to cross this Bank, excepting in smooth water, as at times we had only 8 feet of water under our keel.

22 January – Sunday

Steaming along through the Old Bahama Channel, calm and rather muggy.

23 January – Monday

Steaming through the Bahama Channel.

VISIT PORT NIPE

24 January – Tuesday

Arrived at Port Nipe, thickly wooded all round, a few huts scattered round the immense bay. The village of Nipe lies up one of the rivers.

Had a very successful reading this evening, songs, glees etc. I gave them Grenville fighting the Spaniards.

25 January – Wednesday

Caught a brutal looking Hammer Headed shark last night.

Captain and party went up the Mayari river some 15 miles and had some shooting.

26 January – Thursday

Left this afternoon for Inagua, steaming against a strong trade from eastward, under Fore and Aft sail.

27 January – Friday

Still steaming at it, most uncomfortable motion.

ARRIVE MATHEW TOWN, INAGUA

28 January – Saturday

Anchored this morning off Mathew Town, a small settlement, very low flat island 45 miles long, 18 miles broad, any amount of game on it, duck, flamingoes, snipe, wild cattle, donkeys and pig. Went out for a ride.

29 January – Sunday

Many of the people visited the ship and remained for Morning Service. Attended Evening Service ashore going with Captain Revd. Glanville, clergyman. Offered to read lessons, but did not do so on account of being obliged to wear surplice.

30 January – Monday

Went out duck shooting 9 miles out. Started at 3.30 and had a most delicious ride out on a perfect pacer. Any amount of duck on the lakes. Left for Port Antonio, 11 am. having received much hospitality from everyone, especially the family of the Sargents (American).

DEPART MATHEW TOWN

31 January – Tuesday

Steaming along, the wind having all gone and we got here during the day. Intent to lay out some money on land, in Inagua.

ARRIVE PORT ANTONIO

1 February – Wednesday

Arrived this morning and sent the men off on leave. Went ashore for a ride with Waters. Wretched screws.

Wrote home urging my people to invest some money in coco nuts.

2 February – Thursday

Captain and Somerset went out to Espent. The latter’s going, surprised me. Went out for Botanical walk with Gregory. Examined mango, papaw, bread fruit, trees and orchids. General leave going on.

3 February – Friday

General leave going on. We received two large bags of mails and letters. All well at home.

4 February – Saturday

Espent’s party came over from Spring Gardens, Buff Bay, and all slept on board. Mrs and Miss E. down below.

DEPART PORT ANTONIO

5 February – Sunday

Left this evening for Port Royal, Mrs Brodrick and Espent’s brother coming round with us.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

6 February – Monday

Found on arrival the Tenedos, Phoenix, Griffon, Wye. Went alongside coaling wharf and commenced coaling.

Mail came in, all well at home, hope that all will go on well at home, I feel anxious to get home to see all hands, and everything straight. Don’t much like the idea of Francie going up North – fancy too, that F and J will never be very chummy, being so different in disposition.

7 February – Tuesday

Coaling all day, and with the last of the sea breeze, shoved off from coal jetty, and under foresail and fore and aft sail, fetched our buoy.

8 February – Wednesday

Busy cleaning ship and getting ready for painting.

Received more Home letters. I am afraid Edie, poor girl, is getting snubbed, so I am looking forward to getting home.

12 February – Sunday

Phoenix left to look for Contest.

13 February – Monday

Laid our Bower Anchor and 3 shackles of cable – beat Tenedos. Commodore made us let them all go at 3 pm. Laid out stream and cable and then bent sails.

14th February – Tuesday

Manned and armed boats, and exercised under oars etc. 3 hours working on empty belly. I hope Mr Trevelyan will have some sleepless nights on account of stopping the issue of extra chocolate. Have been obliged to serve out coffee, the men paying for it.

15 February – Wednesday

News of Contest having turned up at Colon, arrived.

16 February – Thursday

Boat sailing but wind fell to a calm, so flotilla had to return.

Capt. Fawkes R.A. A.D.C. to General Gamble came down, so as to be on the spot, when N. came in. We had a pleasant talk together and a prayer afterwards. He is a very bright cheery Christian.

17 February – Friday

Had a pleasant meeting ashore in the Bible Room. Fawkes taking the lead. It is these reunions of earnest Christians together, that build one up.

18 February – Saturday

Northampton, Fantome, and Flamingo came in this day from Colon.

19 February – Sunday

Phoenix arrived. Attended evening service had a splendid sermon from an old clergyman on the words “Occupy till I come”

20 February – Monday

Manned and armed boats, first ship 7 min 30 secs. Phoenix, the next 8 min 30s.

Buoy arranging for Regatta on Friday. The Tenedos buried a poor fellow who died of fever. Heard of the Fantome’s difficulty with her Marines, and of three being tried by Court Martial.

21 February – Tuesday

Out Stream Anchor and cable. Druid first. Boat shoved off in 2m 30 sec.

Had a large meeting ashore. 9 officers of all ranks and a few men.

22 February – Wednesday

Out Bower Anchor and cable – Druid first – Boat shoved off in 8m. 32 secs.

TG mast sent down first 1 m 0. mastheads clear. Our whaler beaten by Flagship’s, owing to bad steering and lap of sea.

23 February – Thursday

Sent our masts up very smart. Mids of Flagship challenged ours to pull in whalers and it came off this evening. Our youngsters polished the Flagship off properly.

24 February – Friday

Busy getting ready for Regatta. This afternoon Regatta came off Our Pinnace cutter and gig won sailing races. Myself and Somerset and Maxwell going away. Altogether we won 6 first prizes and one second out of 17 races – Not bad.

27 February – Monday

Squadron (Northampton, Druid, Tenedos, Fantome, Phoenix, Griffon, Flamingo and Contest) left Port Royal this morning, performed steam tactics then a few sail evolutions, finishing up by anchoring off the coast, coming to under sail.

28 February – Tuesday

Weighed under sail. Too much wind for all plain sail, which was made according to signal, so the consequence was, every ship dragged a great deal. Evolutions under sail during the day and came to under sail in Alligator Pond Bay. All ships except Tenedos and Druid had to either weigh again or keep under sail, until they got their bearings and distance exactly.

1 March – Wednesday

Weighed under sail and evolutions during the day under sail. Drill, shifting topsails. Phoenix very smart, 4 m 20 sec. Tenedos, 5 m 30 sec. Druid, 6 m.20 s.

2 March – Thursday

Evolutions under steam. Drill shifting topsails again. Times about the same. Under easy sail during the night, off Montego Bay.

ARRIVE LUCEA

3 March – Friday

1st Division anchored in Montego Bay – 2nd Div. under K. – made all sail to Lucea, racing down, Phoenix and Druid about equal.

Heard of Commodore’s invaliding and Gladstone’s resigning.

4 March – Saturday

Gave an entertainment this evening and had the officers and men of 2nd Div. on board. It went off very well. Hearty cheers were evoked on our hearing of Her Majesty’s escape from being shot.

K.’s birthday.

5 March – Sunday

Enjoying the quiet time away from Flag Captain. Rode over to Montego Bay and back with Price and Moysey, a 50 mile ride. He saw Admiral.

6 March – Monday

Weighed at daylight and joined the Admiral outside, who is now going to Port Royal.

DEPART LUCEA

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

7 March – Tuesday

Arrived at Port Royal and received letters from Home, am afraid of more troubles.

8 March – Wednesday

Captain Kennedy made acting Commodore, and I’m left in charge of Druid and Lieut. Comdg, he being appointed to Urgent.

9 March – Thursday

I found the Ch Eng. seemed inclined to resent my giving him orders, though I actually went down to his cabin and spoke to him. So I had a long talk with K. and said I must beg him to get Admiral to send an Actg. Captain here for I knew Fawkes wanted to come. At 3.30 pm, two hours after K. wrote to Sec’y, I was signalled for and told most kindly by Admiral, that he had made me Acting Commander of Druid and to take charge of her. God has been very gracious to me.

10 March – Friday

A pleasant meeting ashore.

11 March – Saturday

Went out to the Ryleys. Miss Musgrave staying there.

12 March – Sunday

Attended service – Spanish Town Cathedral.

14 March – Tuesday

Brought the Ryleys back and Miss Musgrave lunched on board and then took them to the Commodore’s. Had a very successful evening, what with Readings, Songs and Hornpipe. Everyone thoroughly delighted – ladies and officers and men from the Squadron.

16 March – Thursday

Went out Target Practice. Firing great guns and 100 lb torpedo, and came alongside coal wharf after coming in.

17 March – Friday

Hauled off after coaling, and made fast to Buoy. Fantome came in.

Phoenix’s sports came off on Military Parade Ground.

18 March – Saturday

Griffon came in.

19 March – Sunday

Dined with Commodore. Suffering from a bad cold, longing to get home.

20 March – Monday

Mail came in, brought in no letters, ours having gone to Bermuda.

21 March – Tuesday

Pleasant meeting ashore. Paid Corner & Miller (dentists) a visit £2.10 for filling two teeth – 1 hour and a half.

22 March – Wednesday

Mail from Bermuda came in, and brought me a budget. The girls still with Edward. Phoenix’s gave a performance on board, rather of the Music Hall style.

23 March – Thursday

Fantome’s Glee Party performed ashore, uncommonly good. 30 performed.

24 March – Friday

A very pleasant Bible Meeting this evening.

25 March – Saturday

Coffee Receipts Coffee Expenditure

Mar.7. 284 (¾ pints) 11s.10d. 5lbs Coffee 20 sugar 11s.8d.

Mar.8. 296 –do– 12s.4d. 5 lbs Coffee 20 Sugar 11s.8d

Mar.9. 188 –do– 7s.10d. 3 lbs Coffee 12 Sugar 7s.0d

DEPART PORT ROYAL

27 March – Monday

Sailed this forenoon for Port Antonio, with Duffus and Mrs Brodrick as passengers.

Made sail outside and made each youngster take the weather helm and put the ship round as officer of the watch, in turn. Furled sails in the evening and steamed quietly round.

ARRIVE PORT ANTONIO

28 March – Tuesday

Came in this morning, had a strong westerly current against us, coming round Morant Point.

29 March – Wednesday

Rode out to Espent’s place (Spring Gardens, Buff Bay), took it very quietly. From dining in a draught I got a very severe cold. Espent has built a splendid house. He is certainly most ingenious and clever.

30 March – Thursday

Went all over the sugar works. He turns out very good sugar, by means of his vacuum pan, but it is hard work competing against Beet Root sugar, with its £13 bounty a ton.

Went up to Chepstow with the ladies and had tea with Gus Espent, We went up on the tramway. Had a look at Cochrane’s bananas.

31 March – Friday

Came back this morning. Cricket Match against Port Antonio eleven. We got thrashed bye the bye.

1 April – Saturday

Drove out to Boston (Mr Tournerie’s) to inspect Priestmans River, to report to Commodore, about blowing up some rocks there. Breakfasted at Boston and came back to the ship. Mr O’Reilly and Tournerie dining with me, Duffus and Hillyar, accompanied. Found an entertainment going on aboard. Doorley plays his pretty valse Bright Eyes very well.

Was staggered at hearing from Wigham (Judge) that Espent had gone smash on Friday, his sugar etc. being seized. One hardly knows yet how much he is involved.

DEPART PORT ANTONIO

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

3 April – Monday

Left this morning at daylight, expended some ammunition and came into Port Royal under sail, picking up our Buoy all right.

Dined with two Commodores.

4 April – Tuesday

Captain Kennedy rejoined the ship as Captain and I gave up Acting Commandership.

7 April – Friday

Had Service on board. Had a yarn with D.T.G.

8 April – Saturday

Toiled up to Kingston, and saw the Espents at Myrtle Bank. Was taken very ill. Got down to the ship and spent my time the rest of the day vomiting and diarrhoea, having taken some stale crab for luncheon. Avoid crabs.

9 April – Sunday

Vomiting this morning, unable to attend the Service or go ashore to partake of the Holy Communion.

10 April – Monday

Very much better this day, Fegan’s letter came directing me to take wine etc.

11 April – Tuesday

Went up to Kingston and consulted Dr Saunders on this chronic cold. He told me it was entirely local and said there was no necessity for me to take stimulants.

12 April – Wednesday

We were going to start for Bermuda but a telegram came from Admiral to “Retain Druid” so we are off for a cruise to Inagua and back, returning to meet the mail on the 19th when we shall probably find out how long we are to remain South. I fear some time.

DEPART PORT ROYAL

13 April – Thursday

Sailing along with fair wind. Cuba in sight on port side, Haïti on starboard.

ARRIVE INAGUA

14 April – Friday

Arrived at Inagua 11.30 pm this evening.

15 April – Saturday

Saw Sargent. It appears he had received our letters.

17 April – Monday

Fairly embarked in the coco nut venture. Gave Dan Sargent two cheques of £25 each.

18 April – Tuesday

Sailed this morning for Jamaica, fair winds.

DEPART INAGUA

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

19 April – Wednesday

Arrived at Port Royal and made fast to the Buoy first, as midnight struck. We came in very cannily as there was no moon. But I think a starlight night is preferable to even a moonlight one. Received our mail and we heard from Admiralty that we are to remain South for the present, not coming home until the Autumn.

20 April – Thursday

Everyone most disgusted at finding we are not coming home until the end of the year.

24 April – Monday

We are to sail on Saturday next for Old Providence (taking Curry with us), Roatan Island and several places on the Spanish Main including Belize.

25 April – Tuesday

The Captain has written a very strong official letter to the Admiralty saying he does not consider the ship safe and also wrote privately to Sir Cooper Key, and Hopkins telling them the same.

He is not far out, for she certainly is not a clipper, under sail, and her engines are most unreliable, in fact may smash up any time. Fantome sailed for a cruise to Haïti, Curacoa and Cartagena etc. 9 pm Therm. 83°F. 27½°C.

27 April – Thursday

We lose five 1st class and one 2nd class P.O. time expired, two being ten years men. It is a great loss to a ship losing men like this.

DEPART PORT ROYAL

29 April – Saturday

Sailed for Old Providence and Belize.

Dr Stephens the man who is cracked about the treasure going with Capt. Curry. As usual at the last moment refusing to go. In my opinion he is a very clever scoundrel.

30 April – Sunday

Very much put out by K’s remarks in cabin, he certainly does not restrain his language or temper. I regret to say it quite spoilt my devotions at morning service. I shall not be sorry at paying off. W. too, is so very bitter. Cold came on this afternoon.

1 May – Monday

Passed a bad night, sneezing etc.

2 May – Tuesday

Sailing along, wind aft. Still under all sail, Royals have not been touched since setting them last Saturday except for erecting. Most delightful of an evening, sailing along quietly, quite smooth and a lovely moon.

VISIT OLD PROVIDENCE

3 May – Wednesday

Anchored this morning at 1 am off Old Providence.

4 May – Thursday

Yesterday a party went ashore with Captain and Dr Stephens and had a hunt for treasure, exploring the ground well between Morgan’s Head and Fort Amy. Nothing found.

5 May – Friday

Stephens was digging away all yesterday, for treasure, and in the evening was quite silly, snapping his fingers etc. I had a serious talk with him this morning. There is no doubt “love of money” is the devil’s subtlest temptation.

6 May – Saturday

Stephens had a final hunt for the treasure, needless to say he found nothing.

Sailed for Swan Island.

7 May – Sunday

Cold coming on again, brought on by getting heated through playing harmonium. Had a chat with Wallis.

8 May – Monday

Sailing along. Studsails both sides. Should get in this afternoon. My catarrh troubling me a little.

Anchored to the westward of Island.

[GKH returns to his original journal. Last entry 28 Dec 1881]

9 May – Tuesday

I again take up my pen to jot down a few remarks. My last were regarding my loved sister Meta, who died from Typhoid fever at Perth. I cannot express in writing the grief I feel and the wild longing one has at times, to but grasp the loving hand again, and look at the familiar face. But I trust to meeting again where there are no more partings. Francie and Edith have been staying with Edward since the loss of our dear one.

I shall be glad at getting home. We are all much disappointed at not having received orders for Home before this. We fear being kept out for the summer, the Admiralty would not let us go to the Fisheries on account of our cylinders being so bad.

We have had several pleasant cruises this year, the first round Cuba, touching at Inagua where the Captain and I have gone in for growing coco-nuts. The second cruise was to the west of the Island with the Admiral.

On returning to Port Royal, we found Brown the Commodore had invalided. The Admiral made Kennedy acting Commodore, and put me in charge of Druid, as acting Commander, which billet I held a month; making a trip to Antonio (and coming to our buoy under sail at Port Royal).

During that time on the Captain rejoining, just as we were on the point of starting for Bermuda, a telegram came via New York to Commodore White, to Retain Druid. Being ready for sea, the Captain got the Commodore to let us take a run to Inagua.

We spent a few days there very pleasantly. The Sargents giving us a dance. I fairly embarked on the coco nut business, giving Dan Sargent two cheques of £25 each. I put expenses down as follows:–

Fairly embarked in the coco-nut venture. Gave Dan Sargent two cheques of £25 each.

So if all goes well I should be getting £800 a year in five year’s time.

On returning to Jamaica, we found the Admiralty had ordered the Admiral to retain us in the West Indies, to cruise under sail. Every one most furious, as we are over 3 years in commission. The Captain has written a most strong letter, regarding the state of ship’s cylinders, which should take us home, it is most exasperating losing the summer in England.

GKH returns to second journal

VISIT SWAN ISLAND

9 May – Tuesday

A large party of us went ashore, and got a good deal of pigeon shooting. Knocking over about 400 (bald-pater pigeon). Very easy shooting, there being only one place for them to get water, and they were obliged to fly all round the place where the guns were stationed at.

Three Americans are kept here by the Company to which they belong, just to keep possession of the Island. They keep the place in capital order.

10 May – Wednesday

Caught three large Turtle last night. Cleared out under sail this forenoon and with a fine breeze from the SE running down to Bonacca one of the Bay Islands. It is getting very warm though the thermometer does not go higher than 84° in my cabin, yet there is no dryness in the air.

ARRIVE BAY ISLANDS

11 May – Thursday

Came in under sail this forenoon. Rounding No XII Coy., sent all hands away cleaning boats out and bathing, who came back loaded with coco nuts and bananas.

This island contains several hundred people, nearly all English subjects, who live on the Cays, the flies being such a torment on the main island.

12 May – Friday

Nevin married a couple of pairs this morning, before a large and distinguished congregation, and very soon after two more couples came to be married. 7 children christened on the poop, a large tumbler being used for a font.

Everyone enjoying themselves bathing, etc.

13 May – Saturday

Went out Alligator shooting in lagoon close to ship, the mangroves were too thick to see the brutes on the banks, but we saw lots in the water, just showing their head and parts of their back. Tried a good many shots at them, but don’t think we hit more than one.

14 May – Sunday

About 90 people came off to service, 17 children christened before service. Presented 24 bibles to the children christened. Went over with Hillyar to SW Cay and read a chapter to a sick man there, offering up a little prayer. Family most grateful.

15 May – Monday

Sailed this morning for Roatan Island, arriving there about 3 pm. It is certainly a very pretty Island. The harbour is too small for us, we had to lay out a stream anchor to prevent our swinging on to reef. Many complaints made of oppression and the utter uselessness of our Vice Consul at Trujillo.

16 May – Tuesday

The Governor a half-breed paid us a visit. Alema, the ADC seemed a very decent young fellow. 55 marriages and 27 christenings took place. Had an interesting chat with a Yankee who is an agent for a Co., who collect silk-grass (Brownlia) to mix with silk.

DEPART BAY ISLANDS

ARRIVE BELIZE

17 May – Wednesday

Arrived at Belize this evening. Captain went ashore and found the Barlees here and the Brodies. Mrs Brodie looking very well and very glad to see us all.

18 May – Thursday

Made a round of visits, with Farwell and Norman, first had a chat with Mrs Barlee, and spent some time in Pakenham’s Qrs. Called on the soldiers, Col Turton, Jopp and Carden and we all spent the evening at Mrs Brodie’s.

20 May – Saturday

Cricket Match between Army & Navy – the latter beating by 12 runs. Began playing at 11 am and it was a very good match.

Had a long yarn with Mrs Brodie, on our future and eternal life.

21 May – Sunday

Norman and I, picking up Mrs Brodie, went to the Hospital and held a service there. I had the privilege of speaking to the sick ones of our Master. Some very sad cases there. Spiritual Pride is a strong enemy. Attended St John’s church in the evening.

22 May – Monday

Dined at Govt House and had a very pleasant dinner. Took Mrs Trist in, found she knew my dear Mother. After dinner we had some music and singing. I gave a couple of songs.

Steam cutter broke down and Captain did not get back to the ship until 9 pm – very much put out.

23 May – Tuesday

Cricket Match between Garrison and Navy, and return match, the Navy scored another victory. A musical party at Mrs Brodie’s.

24 May – Wednesday

Cricket match between Town and Navy. Mrs Brodie and Mrs Cuthbert off to lunch. Paid a visit to the Hospital, and had a chat with the patients. In the evening dined at Government House, a large dinner, all men. Afterwards ladies came in, and we had music and singing, very pleasant it was.

25 May – Thursday

Went ashore and said goodbye to Mrs Brodie, we had a little prayer together. Mr Brodie very loathe to say goodbye. He has a very good hearted and true heart.

Sailed from Belize and anchored at Bokel Cay for the night.

DEPART BELIZE

26 May – Friday

Dropped the Pilot this afternoon, landing Stephens and a party at Hay Cay. Needless to say they found no treasure. Suffering from an attack of catarrh.

27 May – Saturday

Steaming under fore and aft sail for Grand Cayman. Captain spoke to me about invaliding, but I mean to stick to the ship as long as I can.

28 May – Sunday

Short service. Captain launched out very strongly against men like Hedley , Vicars etc.

VISIT GRAND CAYMAN

29 May – Monday

Anchored off Grand Cayman this evening.

30 May – Tuesday

Another attack of catarrh. Oh! for news of going home, but I fear me we shall not go yet. How I’m to get through the summer I’m puzzled.

31 May – Wednesday

Steaming against head sea, but little wind.

1 June – Thursday

Anchored Montego Bay for the night.

VISIT OCHO RIOS

2 June – Friday

Arrived this morning at Ocho Rios, a very snug harbour except with the wind to the westward of North, and the country looks very pretty. We received quite a heap of letters. Found Phoenix here.

5 June – Monday

Gave Farwell our farewell dinner.

6 June – Tuesday

Dined with Cartwright, the Stipendiary Magistrate and got a cold.

7 June – Wednesday

Left this evening at 11 pm for Port Royal.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

8 June – Thursday

Arrived at Buoy. Port Royal Harbour 11 pm.

9 June – Friday

Farwell left this morning by Para. Ship went alongside coal wharf and started coaling at 1 pm. Got in 100 tons of coal. Strong sea breezes blowing all day.

10 June – Saturday

Finished coaling this morning 150 tons. Unable to leave coal wharf on account of strong sea breeze.

13 June – Tuesday

Painting, Musketry and refitting.

17 June – Saturday

McFarlane met with a sad accident. He went up in Pinnace for a picnic and whilst alongside market wharf at Kingston stooped over side to pick up a lady’s fan and got squeezed between Boat and Iron pier, there being a heavy swell on. He fell back bleeding everywhere and was at once taken to Civil Hospital. Going up with Smith to see him in cutter, the Pinnace ran us down and sunk us. Blowing hard at the time, with sea.

18 June – Sunday

Went up in Pinnace to see McFarlane, very weak, sensible, but the doctor will not be able to say for a few days whether any fracture has taken place or not.

DEPART PORT ROYAL

19 June – Monday

Left this evening for Haïti. McFarlane this morning better and I pray that God will restore him to us again.

21 June – Wednesday

Arrived at Miragoâne this evening and shipped the British Vice-Consul and German who had been put into prison a few hours, and rather courted it, I fancy.

VISIT PORT-AU-PRINCE

22 June – Thursday

Steamed on to Port-au-Prince and immediately we arrived had letters, very soon ready, demanding satisfaction for the insult to British Flag. (Flag to be saluted on the Champs de Main with 21 guns in presence of our officers and a guard) – and also $500 to Vice Consul and $4000 to Mr Bain, a British subject imprisoned unjustly.

23 June – Friday

The salute sticks in General Salomon’s gizzard.

24 June – Saturday

General Salomon (President) has been making use of the French Minister, as an Intermediary. The dollars are forthcoming, but he says a salute on the Champs de Main would weaken his position and cause a revolution.

25 June – Sunday

Blowing hard and let go out second anchor. My catarrh very bad.

28 June – Wednesday

Everything satisfactorily settled by Captain K. and the Consul with the President. Indemnity $2000 to Bain, $1000 to Ahrendts, and $500 to Hadleigh, with an apology for the insult to the Flag. The Salute was waived.

Mr and Mrs Hunt are most kind, having youngsters up every day and riding. This morning six went out and made a regular day of it, getting several croppers.

29 June – Thursday

Started this morning for Port Royal, looking in at Miragoâne. This day 7 years ago, I lost my sainted Mother who went home, there awaiting us.

ARRIVE PORT ROYAL

1 July – Saturday

Arrived Port Royal and went alongside coal wharf. K. – wrote to Commodore reporting Smith for drunkenness.

2 July – Sunday

Had a long yarn with S–.

3 July – Monday

Dido to go North, Druid to go to Barbados. Hateful news.

McFarlane’s life still hanging on a thread.

4 July – Tuesday

Cleaning ship.

5 July – Wednesday

Employed provisioning ship. Phoenix sailed for Halifax.

6 July – Thursday

“Ten thousand cheers.” Ordered Home by telegram. I had this very morning been consulting Fegan about going home, the advisability of my going to the Windward Islands, during the rainy season.

Hoisted our Pennant 700 feet long.

7 July – Friday

Very busy returning and taking in stores for England.

8 July – Saturday

Hard at work

9 July – Sunday

Sailed this morning for old England at 5 am.

Extract from original journal. Last entry 9 May 1882

10 July – Monday

Homeward bound. Since last writing anything in my journal, we have made a couple of cruises.

After returning from Inagua and finding we were to be kept South, we went for a very pleasant cruise, going first to Old Providence where Curry said he had found treasure. We thoroughly exploded the whole yarn. What little faith one had in Curry, went on his refusing to go down in the ship.

But when we got down there we got at the truth of the story, viz. that Curry was servant to an old Spaniard who had a hobby of collecting old Spanish coins, this old fellow, dying at Belize. Curry is supposed, and rightly too, to have robbed his late master and then to have concocted the yarn about the Treasure to divert suspicion. Certainly he has made a very good thing of it, having got a considerable sum of money of a good number of dupes.

From Old Providence we went to Swan Island, inhabited by two Americans, who were very civil to us, and gave us some good pigeon shooting. We got 500 in one day. From Swan Island we went to the Bay Islands, ceded by us to the Hondurians in 1860, who have ground down the unfortunate people ever since.

They can get no redress for their grievances, as Mr Melhado the English Vice-Consul at Trujillo is a Jamaican Jew, partners with the President of Republic in business, and will not do anything for the unfortunate people.

At Bonacca, we got through 5 marriages, and 22 christenings on board, and at Roatan, a few more of all ages and sexes. The Bay Islands are very pretty and loaded with fruit.

Belize was our next place, where we stayed a week, and had cricket matches and spent a very good time, our friends the Barlees and Brodies being there. Mrs Brodie looking very well. It was such a pleasure meeting her once more, and we had some very pleasant talks together.

Belize to Grand Cayman and Ocho Rios and then on to Port Royal, where Farwell left us on promotion, and Gregory on promotion.

The Admiral sent a telegram saying he intended sending orders down to us by N.Y. Mail. So as the mail did not come in for a fortnight, it gave us time to make a trip over to Port-au-Prince, to settle a disturbance that had occurred there and at Miragoâne. We got £700 compensation and an apology from the President, who were very glad to get off so cheap, tho’ I cannot say the offence was very grievous.

Coming back we found orders to go to Barbados as Senior Officer. Dido to go North, poor McFarlane still lying at death’s door, having had his head crushed between boat and pier and fractured his skull.

Just as we were on the point of starting from Port Royal for Barbados, a telegram was received ordering us home to Plymouth, so great growling was changed to much joy – and on the morning of Sunday the 9th July we started for Home via Bermuda. Our only cloud being the fact of leaving our old messmate lying dangerously ill at hospital.

VISIT INAGUA

11 July – Tuesday

Stopped off Inagua. Captain and I went ashore and saw Dan Sargent. I told him I wished to withdraw from the concern. Found he had cashed my cheques, so I got him to give me a draft for £45, being £5 less than I gave him, on account of any trouble he might have had.

ARRIVE BERMUDA

17 July – Monday

Arrived at Bermuda and went into the Camber, found the Tyne and Foam here. Urgent in dock. Telegraphed across to Yearsley to ask if I could take anything home for him or Mrs Yearsley. Was shocked to receive reply of her having died last night, (miscarriage) and asking me to take her body to Sutton in England. Of course I could not do what he asked me.

19 July – Wednesday

Went over to Hamilton and paid poor Yearsley a visit, found him very much cut up.

DEPART BERMUDA

20 July – Thursday

Sailed this morning after receiving the Jamaica mail. News of McFarlane very bad, as bad as could be and we must be prepared to hear the worst on arriving in England.

22 July – Saturday

Rather surprised this evening at Wallis and Somerset proposing to give Mrs K. a present on account of the pleasant time they have had in the ship. Considering these two have done nothing but curse the ship and Captain since she commissioned, and been, I consider very disloyal, it is a matter of surprise to me.

24 July – Monday

Blowing fresh from Southward with squalls and rain.

25 July – Tuesday

Blowing still from Southward. Very heavy rain and squalls during the night.

Captain K. laid up with his old complaint.

26 July – Wednesday

No wind, so furled sails and got up steam. One sail in sight. Captain K. very seedy from stricture. B – rather w– this morning.

Steaming along 5 knots an hour. Flat calm, curious ripple probably marking the Gulf Stream.

27 July – Thursday

K. much better.

Steaming along light wind from Southward. The ripples yesterday meant 38 mile current in our favour.

28 July – Friday

Light breezes and steaming, 70 tons of coal left. Deepdale of Sunderland overtook us, signalled to each other.

Circassia, Anchor line, dashed past us, a splendid looking steamer. Asked us if any ice about. We told “No.”

Stopped steaming 1700 miles off Plymouth.

29 July – Saturday

Sailing quietly along nine knots an hour, weather too fine.

[Extract from original journal. Last entry 10 July]

29 July – Saturday

Sailing along under all canvass, the weather much too fine. We reached Bermuda the 8th day after leaving Jamaica, and remained there three days, hearing the news of Alexandria being bombarded. The Tyne and Foam were in here. Met Huntingford 1st Lieut. of former, the first time since leaving the Britannia in 1865, and made Baker’s acquaintance.

Since leaving Bermuda we have had light winds, with the exception of a couple of days, so we have had to do a good amount of steaming which has reduced our coal down to 70 tons, and still 1700 miles off. So we have been obliged perforce to stop steaming, to economise coal and jog along under sail, 3 to 4 knots an hour. Yesterday we passed a couple of steamers Circassia of the Anchor line and Deepdale of Sunderland. No news. How I’m longing to get home. I feel so much the need of a root and find it quite an exertion to get on with my duty.

Kennedy hard at work on his new book. Have been criticising it for him.

31 July – Monday

Turned out at 4 am not having slept a wink through the night, principally through rheumatism in knee and a little through Somerset’s stentorian voice being heard without much modulation. Ship going 9 knots.

1 August – Tuesday

Captain Kennedy still seedy. How we are all looking forward to seeing the old country once more. My catarrh I am thankful to say is getting much better and my varicose veins not troubling me much.

2 August – Wednesday

Sailing along, wind at South. Making fair passage daily, of an average 140 to 160 miles a day. Sea very calm, wind steady at South.

This day week D.V. we should be in Old England. Many blessings have I to thank God for, and Oh! what a doubting faithless heart I have!

3 August – Thursday

Sailing along, 6 kn close hauled, just on our course. Lizard 800 miles off. Weather cold, raw and very damp.

Canteen closed today, having sold out everything at half price, and distributed the surplus to Ship’s Co.

4 August – Friday

Sailing along close hauled. This morning a cold fog surrounded us for some time.

7 August – Monday

Passing some very fine outward bound clippers.

8 August – Tuesday

Struck soundings 90 fms. Fine sandy bottom. Now nearly 3½ years since we last had soundings in the channel of old England.

9 August – Wednesday

Steaming. Fine weather but cold, it is very pleasant seeing so many ships about.

ARRIVE PLYMOUTH

10 August – Thursday

This morning at daylight, sighted the Lizard and at 10 AM we made fast to the Buoy in the Sound. The water was covered with boats of all sizes and descriptions, large yachts sailing round us.

We soon had budgets of letters and I’m thankful to say found all our friends well.

I thank God for bringing me home in comparatively good health and that my catarrh has not pulled me down more. We saluted Flag. Fort thought we were German, and returned salute with 21 guns, amusing.

11 August – Friday

Left this morning for Sheerness to pay off. It is a very pretty sight to see the water so alive with vessels and boats of all kinds.

We were surprised that the war in Egypt was still going.

A large batch of promotions, Pigott amongst the number of Lieuts. made. Jenkings, Beresford amongst the Comdrs. K. has another attack of his old complaint and I of mine.

12 August – Saturday

Very interesting going up Channel – so many ships sailing and steamers passing us.

ARRIVE SHEERNESS

13 August – Sunday

Arrived (here at Sheerness) 9 am and my dear old Father came off to see me, looking very well. In the afternoon my step-mother and Mrs Kennedy etc came off to tea. All well at home.

14 August – Monday

Inspection came off this morning and went off very well. Admiral Rice made a most complimentary speech and also I believe made a capital report on ship.

My dear Father paid me a flying visit to congratulate me on my 32nd birthday.

God has been very good to me.

15 August – Tuesday

My Lords of Admiralty – Lord John Hay, Admiral Brandreth, Sir F. Richards, and Mr Brassey came down to visit Dockyard, and as we were in Camber they came on board of us, and walked round the ship etc.

16 August – Wednesday

Buoy dismantling.

17 August – Thursday

Dismantling. HMS Garnet came in.

18 August – Friday

Garnet inspected, very good inspection, and she certainly is very nice. My old ship Prothero 1st and Gunnery, Loftus Jones, Captain, is not popular.

20 August – Sunday

Attended service in quadrangle. Dickson officiated. A thorough good Christian, kept the men’s attention throughout. Took the Holy Communion this morning, the first time for a very long time, so glad of an opportunity.

21 August – Monday

Getting on fast with the dismantling.

22 August – Tuesday

Holbech engaged to Dick Gresley’s sister, going to be married on 10th October, and I’m to be best man. Well she will have a thorough high principled English gentleman for a husband.

25 August – Friday

Ran up to town, met my Father and we strolled about together and had a talk about my prospects. Key and Lord John Hay spoke most kindly of me. Slept at St Pancras.

26 August – Saturday

Saw my Father off. Spent a couple of hours with Grannie and came down to ship again.

27 August – Sunday

Took communion this morning and attended a very pleasant service, morning and evening in Quadrangle. Dickson officiating.

28 August – Monday

Busy cleaning ship. Dick White in Polyphemus.