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Magic The Gathering Deluxe Deck Box 3D Printing

Deluxe Deck Box for Magic The Gathering by ReavenkAn overhaul of the MTG Rack and Pinion deck box. With an optional hinge taken from Whity's Rugged Box, that seems to be taking the 3D printed latched box world by storm.https://youtu.be/xJXIXU-hgLoThere are a few of these remixes floating around. The original box seems to be derived from a plywood box-hinge design. I decided to avoid things that would typically be friction fit (or glue) and design it with M2 hex socket screws in mind.I also wanted a box that was as flush as possible and removed low-hanging fruit for backlash and play.PartsThe design revolves around M2 screws.M2-8 screws (x4) Hex socket headFor pinsM2-10 screws (x4) Hex socket headFor attaching the box to the bottomM2-20 screws (x20) Hex socket headTop bar and sectional hinges.And if making one with a door latch,M3-30 screws (x2) Head doesn't matter as long as it's not countersunkLatch barsPrintingParts should be uploaded in the correct orientation. Print without supports.Deckbox (x1)Bottom (x1)Rack (x2)LiftFloor(x1)SectionalWallBottom (x2)Plain version is interchangeable with TheGathering.SectionalWallTop (x2)Plain version is interchangeable with Magic.TopBridgeBar (x2)Plain version is interchangeable with Latch. Whichever you choose, print as a pair.PinionDoor_A (x2)PinionDoor_B (x2)PinFemale (x4)PinMale (x4)Latch (x1)Only if using with TopBridgeBar_Latch.SectionalRoof (x2)AssemblySee the video link above. This thing definitely has a few steps for assembly.Note that the M2 bores are small by design and will require some effort to tap them initially. All bores are smooth and will self-thread into the plastic.There are a lot of long screws involved, so a power drill is recommended, but make sure: to have a drill bit that doesn't strip easily, be gentle and go slow. And still do the last few turns by hand; power drills can easily over overdrive screws which can destroy the entire threading of these bores.Bottom and lift floorConnect racks to floor lift plate. Make sure the top of the lift plate is the flat side. Make sure the linear guides for the racks are on the inside.Push rack-lift-floor subassembly into the box from the bottom.Insert M2-10s on the bottom the fasten the rack-lift-floor subassembly to the box.Attach the sectional walls to each other and the boxConnect the bottom sectional wall to the box - use x2 M2-20 screws to fasten and hinge.Connect top sectional wall to bottom wall - use x2 M2-20 screws to fasten and hinge.Connect the sectional roof to the top sectional wall - use x2 M2-20 screws to fasten and hinge.Connect the top bar to the sectional roof - If using the latch, make sure the hinge is facing upwards - use x2 M2-20 screws to fasten and hinge.Do the same for the other side.Pinion doorsRotate the hinges to what they would approximately be when closed.Fit 4 doors. Make sure the top triangle clears the door. Make sure the gears mate properly with the rack teeth. Make sure the indexing guide (the box sticking out) fits into the top bar cavities.Use x1 M2-20 screw per door to fasten the pinions to the top bars through the indexing guides.Pinion hingesNote the hinges come in 3 parts, a male part, a female part, and a M2-8 screw.For the 4 male parts, with pliers, hold them by their flat side. Then thread the screw through until the head is fully sunken.Make sure the box assembly is in a closed configuration.Open one door to get access to the inside.From the inside, insert the female pins to the closed door.Using pliers, hold them in place (turn them if needed to get proper leverage), and from the other side, fasten them with the male part (that should have screws through them).Close the open door.Insert the female pins for the other door - this is temporary.Open the doors to open the box and engage the rack and pinions. This is done to ensure the rack and pinion stays aligned.Without moving the pinion doors, pop out the pins and place them from the inside.Attach the male ends to them from the outside.Latch (optional)Insert M3-30 screw through each top-bar. Note that one bore is slightly bigger than the other. Insert screw from the big side, and fasten on the small side.For one of them, thread the latch in the middle.PostWork the device for a while; the hinges will probably need to loosen a bit still from being turned.ChangesChanges that were made from the thing it was remixed from:Sectional wall allows for moving the doors slightly lower, getting more out of the rack and door hinge.Section walls have optional logos.The bottom piece is screwed on.Door pins use screws and have an even lower profile.Seams have been modified to have less play.The wall is moved flush to the side.Rack has less backlash for linear rail.Rack teeth are dilated for less backlash with pinion gears.Connecting top bar tolerances are adjusted for less play.Connecting top bar is screwed in.Sectional hinges take M2 screws with a cavity for sunken screw heads.Added latch.When closed, the sectional roof is level with the rest of the top.Floor piece dimensions are readjusted for less play.Irrelevant rack teeth are removed.

Magic The Gathering Rugged Card Box by ReavenkModified an Uno card case (that itself is based on Whity's Rugged Box). Resized and decorated with MTG in mind.Assembly and Blend file walkthrough at https://youtu.be/ivKAslAix6IFits a max of 130 unsleeved cards.Fits a max of 90 thin-sleeved cards.PartsRequires x6 M3-30 screws - button or socket head.PrintingPick a size and a lid design, and print: x1 lidx1 rackx1 bottomx2 latchesThey should already be oriented correctly.There are 3 lid designs:Plain - No lid designHi-fidelity - Matches the original card back design as much as possibleReorganized - Elements are shifted and resized to print better on FDMsThe HiFi version isn't recommended; it's just included because it feels obligatory to :D But, the text detail is too fine for common FDM printers to print well.And there are 4 sizes:Tight - A tight fit for unsleeved cardsLoose - A lot of tolerance for unsleeved cardsThinSleeved - For 64x89mm sleeves (2.5" x 3.5")ThinSleeved - For 67x94mm sleeves (2 5/8" x 3 5/8")AssemblyThe assembly is the same as any other Rugged Box variation.The original Uno box instructions say to glue the inner box (what I'm calling the rack) to the box, but I like having it detached and the ability to pull it out.Design fileThe Blender file is included. It allows resizing the dimensions through Blender shape keys.See text notes in the Blender file and video for more details.When exporting STLs from the Blend file, I use the Prusa slicer program to reorient and repair STLs. Blender Booleans are finicky, so double-check that the geometry of the lid's design is correct after exporting.LicenseThis is licensed as Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial.The original thing this is derived from (Uno Card Box) and the thing that's derived from (Rugged Box) are both licensed as noncommercial, so I'm inheriting their license.Updates10/20/2023Changed license.Re-exported ThinSleeve 67x92; the box was too small.Added ThinSleeve 64x89.Updated notes in the Blender file for exporting the new smaller thin sleeves.Changed summary markdown formatting to look better with the new Thingiverse website style.

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