KINGPIN REMOVAL AND RENEWAL
KINGPIN REMOVAL and REASSEMBLY
My objective is to help Reliant owners with Little or NO MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE to be aware of the potential pitfalls and how to overcome them .
KINGPIN REMOVAL and REASSEMBLY
THE FOLLOWING IS ONLY GIVEN AS A GUIDELINE AND NO RESPONSIBILITY IS TAKEN IF YOU CHOOSE TO FOLLOW THE ADVICE GIVEN !!!!
For your own safety it is always advisable to wear relevant safety equipment during procedures and any safety equipment should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations.
THE FOLLOWING BOOKS WILL HELP WITH INFO / PICTURES
RELIANT MOTOR COMPANY REGAL MK 3 – 4 – 5 – 6 and 5 cwt VAN WORKSHOP MANUAL
AUTOBOOKS OWM 894 MANUAL
RELEVANT CHAPTERS and PAGES
Chapter 8 , pages 69 , 70 , 71 . 72 , 73 .
HAYNES RELIANT ROBIN and KITTEN OWNERS WORKSHOP MANUAL RELEVANT CHAPTER 11
The following information is written as a supplement to the info contained in the above
manuals with the object of hopefully assisting in overcoming pitfalls not brought up in the relevant chapters.
For your own safety it is always advisable to wear relevant safety equipment during procedures and any safety equipment should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations.
KINGPIN REMOVAL FROM STUB AXLE
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The following information is written as a supplement to the info contained in the above manuals with the object of hopefully assisting in overcoming pitfalls not brought up in the relevant chapters
For your own safety it is always advisable to wear relevant safety equipment during procedures and any safety equipment should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations .
KINGPIN REMOVAL FROM STUB AXLE
KINGPIN TYPES
Early kingpin bushes are bronze
Earlier kingpins have bushes and a solid Taper pin to retain the kingpin in place.
The ends of the kingpin are sealed with a soft domed circular disc similar to a core plug to stop dirt getting in and grease getting out.
The soft domed circular disc is hammered flatter to seal end.
Originally posted by wilfried;
The top kingpin has bronze bushes see the big holes and a groove for the grease .
The bottom shows theb later other Needle Roller Bearing .
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LATER KINGPINS USE NEEDLE ROLLER BEARINGS .
Later kingpins have needle roller bearings and a Roll pin also known as a Sellock pin { A hollow tube with a groove cut out of it } to retain the kingpin in place .
The ends of the kingpin are sealed by a flat disc held in by a circlip to stop dirt getting in and grease getting out.
ROLLER KINGPIN PICTURE from RELIANT PARTSWORLD.CO.UK…..
http://www.reliantpartsworld.co.uk/store/images/92866%20(Medium)-W.jpg
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The following information is written as a supplement to the info contained in the above manuals with the object of hopefully assisting in overcoming pitfalls not brought up in the relevant chapters .
For your own safety it is always advisable to wear goggles during procedures
and any other relevant safety equipment should be used in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations
SUPPLEMENTARY METHOD TO WORKSHOP MANUALS of KINGPIN REMOVAL FROM STUB AXLE
Fifer’s Method of KINGPIN REMOVAL
Take it to a garage and get them to press it out
or , if no garage nearby , as a last resort use BRUTE FORCE METHOD as BELOW
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REMOVING THE TAPER PIN
To remove the taper pin that secures the kingpin the method given in the manuals is to tap out taper pin with a drift slightly smaller than the pin.
Unfortunately that more often than not does not work as the end of the locating pin can bend over / mushroom out .
You can then do the following ;
Clamp RADIUS ARM / STUB AXLE in vice with the end of the kingpin pointing upwards .
Gently heat the radius arm where the Taper pin / Roll pin goes in
Get a drift slightly thinner than the kingpin .
TOOLS REQUIRED = Bar of brass or steel slightly smaller than the diameter of the Kingpin
Get the largest and heaviest hammer you can find
BASH , BASH , BASH the KINGPIN WITH THE DRIFT , TAKING CARE NOT TO DAMAGE STUB AXLE END
When you get the kingpin out keep it as a DRIFT and LOCATING TOOL for new bearing
Originally posted by engineman;
Whenever you replace a king pin don't worry about the small taper pin, the small piece in contact with the k/pin will shear off as you drive the pin out.
Take the top domed plug out of the stub axle, don't worry about the bottom one as it will come out with the k/pin.
Support the radius arm as best as you can, preferably in four places to stop it rocking about, ensure also that you have space beneath the pin to drive it out.
Find or obtain a piece of brass, dural' or steel slightly less in diameter than the king pin, then, using a large hammer drive the king pin out.
It helps to have some assistance to steady the radius arm, also, hold the drift with a pair of grips because if you miss the drift with the hammer !!!!!
With the stub axle removed you can now get to the taper pin, these normally mushroom over when any attempt is made to remove them.
Determine which is the larger end of the pin and then very carefully drill down through the centre of the pin with a 1.5 or 2.0 mm drill, this will help to ease the surface tension on the pin, and generally a tap on the small end of the pin with a brass or copper hammer will remove it.
I feel that there is so little of the taper pin in contact with the k/pin that it makes little differance whether you remove the pin or not, this is only my opinion and it is dependant on the k/pin being a tight drive fit into the arm.
I hope this might be of some help to you.
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IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER BEFORE FITTING NEW BUSHES / BEARINGS
{ 1 } Make sure the grease holes in the bushes / bearings are lined up with the grease nipple hole
{ 2 } If BUSH TYPE , make sure both bushes are line reamed together
{ 3 } Grease everything
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OLDER BUSH TYPE BEARING REMOVAL
Refer to the following post first before knocking EARLY BRONZE BUSHES out
Originally posted by will500;
Drive out one of the old bushes ,and then fit a new bush in it's place.
Then using the other old bush that is still in place in the stub axle as a guide for the reamer to pass through before going through the new bush.
Then drive out the other old bush and refit the other new bush and then using the reamed new bush as the guide for this one.
Quick method with correct STEPPED DRIFT
GENTLY HEAT STUB AXLE JUST WARM ENOUGH TO HOLD IN A CLOTH IN YOUR HANDS OR USE A HEAVY DUTY GLOVE AND PLACE THE STUB AXLE IN VICE , INSERT DRIFT INTO BEARING , TAP BUSH OUT , JOB DONE .
If you do not have a drift
HEAT THE STUB AXLE AND KNOCK BUSH OUT WITH ANY SUITABLE SAFE ITEM
Originally posted by RockGuru;
A quick puller for any bush type can be bodged using 2 sockets ,
One socket sized between the inside and outside diameters of the bush to be removed ,
One socket sized slightly bigger than the hole it is in.
Use a long bolt and washers through the center of the assembly and tighten ,
This will pull all but the most stubborn bushes .
TAKE CARE NOT TO SCORE THE SIDES
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ROLLER BEARING TYPE REMOVAL
The following information is written as a supplement to the info contained in the above manuals with the object of hopefully assisting in overcoming pitfalls not brought up in the relevant chapters .
For your own safety it is always advisable to wear goggles during procedures and any other relevant safety equipment should be used in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations
Quick method with correct STEPPED DRIFT
GENTLY HEAT STUB AXLE JUST WARM ENOUGH TO HOLD IN A CLOTH IN YOUR HANDS OR USE A HEAVY DUTY GLOVE AND PLACE THE STUB AXLE IN VICE , INSERT DRIFT INTO BEARING , TAP BUSH OUT , JOB DONE .
Quick method with correct STEPPED DRIFT
GENTLY HEAT STUB AXLE JUST WARM ENOUGH TO HOLD IN A CLOTH IN YOUR HANDS OR USE A HEAVY DUTY GLOVE AND PLACE IN STUB AXLE IN VICE , INSERT DRIFT INTO BEARING , TAP BUSH OUT , JOB DONE .
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If you do not have a drift
HEAT THE STUB AXLE AND KNOCK BUSH OUT WITH ANY SUITABLE SAFE ITEM { a socket can be used }
TAKING CARE NOT TO SCORE THE SIDES
Keep your old king pin as a future drift and your old needle bearings to assist in the refit of new bearings .
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EARLY BRONZE BUSH FITTING
MAKE SURE THAT THE HOLE IN THE BUSH IS LINED UP WITH THE GREASE NIPPLE HOLE
In a perfect world both ends of the stub axle would have the same dimension after removal of the old bushes .
However we all know that is not the case .
This means that when you press the new bushes in that they are more likely to have different internal dimensions once fitted . .
If you can fit the pin through the new bushes without reaming you have been incredibly lucky .
The bushes are easy to fit but if you do not have the correct reamer { which is a reamer long enough to go through BOTH bushes ensuring that the pin lines up } you can ream them with a piece of fine emery wrapped around your finger or a dowel of wood and or rat tail files etc.
While this method works well { and I have fitted dozens of kingpins to Robins /Rialtos which have all sailed through their MOT.s by using this method when my reamer was at a different location } the kingpin generally lasts a shorter time than using the correct reamer method .
Originally posted by will500;
If you can buy the reamer,the size you want is a 5/8". I used to use this method for reaming the new bushes.
Drive out one of the old bushes ,and then fit a new bush in it's place.
Then using the other old bush that is still in place in the stub axle as a guide for the reamer to pass through before going through the new bush.
Then drive out the other old bush and refit the other new bush and then using the reamed new bush as the guide for this one.
To get rid of the lift , I used to grind down one of the washers that came with the kingpin kit,and was'nt used.
It used to take a little time,but well worth it in the end.
MAKE SURE THAT THE HOLE IN THE BUSH IS LINED UP WITH THE GREASE NIPPLE HOLE
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FITTING THE EARLY WELCH PLUGS ON THE ENDS OF THE KINGPIN
Originally posted by engineman;
The ends of the k/pin are normally sealed off by the domed welch plugs, the grease goes into the bushes via the grease nipples, the bushes have a grease groove in them. In some bushes these grooves take the form of a cross, in others you may find a complete figure of 8 groove which gets the grease right round the pin. Either way, the grease usually finds its way out in the back of the stub axle, unless it gets past the plugs and into the brake drum.
Originally posted by sparesman 2000;
The core type plugs used are there for not just retaining the king pin which is held in place by the the taper pin but to seal the ends so when grease is applied it doesn't just go onto brake shoes
Fitting of them is similar to a core plug in that the centre is tapped to spread the plug so that it grabs the steel it sits in and stays firmly in position
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ROLLER BEARING TYPE REFITTING
Quick method WITH CORRECT STEPPED DRIFT =
PLACE BEARINGS IN FRIDGE
GENTLY HEAT STUB AXLE JUST WARM ENOUGH TO HOLD IN HANDS AND PLACE IN VICE .
GET BEARINGS FROM FRIDGE .
INSERT DRIFT INTO BEARING .
LINE UP GREASE HOLE IN BEARING WITH STUB AXLE HOLE .
TAP IN , MAKING SURE IT IS JUST IN ENOUGH TO GET THE FLAT WASHER AND CIRCLIP IN .
DO NOT TAP IN TOO DEEP .
JOB DONE .
If you do not have a suitable stepped drift then the following bodges will do ..
The potential problem with the needle roller version is that the rollers might fall out .
The following methods should hopefully ensure that this does not happen .
I very gently heat the stub axle just warm enough to hold in my hand with a cloth or a heavy glove.
I have used the following methods to put new bearings in ;
{1} Tap in methods 2 off
{2} Pull in method with bolt
Tap in method #1 as follows ;
Clamp STUB AXLE in vice etc
Get your old kingpin and insert into new bearing fit your old bearing on top of new bearing
The top of the old kingpin should be flush with the top of the old bearing .
Insert kingpin and bushes into top of stub axle .
Line up as near as possible to central position WITH THE GREASE HOLE IN THE BEARING INLINE WITH THE GREASE NIPPLE HOLE
and gently tap the top of the OLD TOP BEARING holding the bottom of the old kingpin in place to stop it dropping out .
Tap the new bearing into place a few millimeters at a time , pausing and checking to see if it needs slight realignment to keep central .
As you near the point where the bearing is going below the flush and approaching the recess for the circlip check for alignment through the grease nipple hole
OR
Tap in method #2 as follows ;
Clamp STUB AXLE in vice etc
Get a 1/4 drive socket either a 7/16 A/F or an 11mm
Get a suitable bolt and nut to fit inside the socket and a washer the same size as the one removed from under the old circlip to cover the top of the new bush .
Insert Nut into socket
Insert bolt into washer
Insert bolt and washer into socket and tighten into nut until just finger tight and the washer should be a nice central fit around the bearing and not overlapping .
Insert whole socket with bolt assembly into new bearing
Line up new bearing and socket as near as possible to central position WITH THE GREASE HOLE IN THE BEARING INLINE WITH THE GREASE NIPPLE HOLE and gently tap the top of the bolt and Tap the new bearing into place a few millimeters at a time , pausing and checking to see if it needs slight realignment to keep central .
As you near the point where the bearing is going below the flush and approaching the recess for the circlip
check for alignment through the grease nipple hole
AND
Pull in Method with Bolt
AS PER Tap in method #2 and the extra details as follows ;
Clamp STUB AXLE in vice etc
Get a 1/4 drive socket either a 7/16 A/F or an 11mm
Get a suitable LONG bolt about 3 and ½ inch long and threaded full length and a nut to fit inside the socket and a washer the same size as the one removed from under the old circlip to cover the top of the new bush .
Insert Nut into socket
Insert bolt into washer
Insert bolt and washer into socket and tighten into nut until just finger tight and the washer should be a nice central fit around the bearing and not overlapping .
Insert whole socket with bolt assembly into new bearing
Line up new bearing and socket as near as possible to central position WITH THE GREASE HOLE IN THE BEARING INLINE WITH THE GREASE NIPPLE HOLE
Get a 3/8 or 1/2 drive socket either a 15/16 A/F or an 21mm.
Get a suitable washer to fit bolt and large socket .
Get another nut to fit bolt .
Slide large socket over the exposed remaining thread on the bolt and place washer on and tighten up nut until just finger tight .
Get a suitable spanner or socket to prevent outside top of bolt from turning
Get a suitable spanner and tighten nut only making sure the bolt does not rotate
The new bearing will be pulled into place a few millimeters at a time ,
Keep pausing and checking to see if it needs slight realignment to keep central .
{ You might have to slacken the nut off and readjust the large socket then retighten nut }
As you near the point where the bearing is going below the flush and approaching the recess for the circlip check for alignment through the grease nipple hole
AS YOU NEAR THE END OF THE BEARING BEING PULLED INTO STUB AXLE THE FRONT END WILL START TO PROTRUDE INTO THE SOCKET AND YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE SURE IT IS NOT BUTTING ON THE LARGE SOCKET .
Reassembly just follow workshop manual with the exception of paying attention to the following .
Check your Kingpin ends to see if they have a good chamfer as per ;
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Check that the Bronze spacer actually sits over the bearing end ;
Seated correctly after filing a few thou off the bottom
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TIP
Try the new kingpin in the hole in the " A " frame BEFORE you fit the stub axle .
Often it will not be an easy push fit through because the start of the hole in the " A " frame is slightly burred .
Easy remedy is to put a very tiny chamfer { about half to one millimetre } on the leading edges .
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Often you cannot get the kingpin fully through as it is jamming on a wee burr where the locating / roll pin goes through as per the following video ;
KINGPIN STICKING IN RADIUS ARM.MTS
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A tiny half round file can be used very sparingly to clean the bore until you can push the kingpin fully through with your fingers as per video ;
KINGPIN PERFECT THROUGH RADIUS ARM.MTS
Do not over clean the bore of the " A " frame because you will make the hole TOO slack .
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GREASE INFO
Originally posted by Peter.Morris;
The car came with all its documentation, includin a Rialto II owners book which states that the King Pin should only be lubricated with KLUBER STABURGAS NBU 12/300KP. I've never heard of this, and cant find a supplier, so was wondering what everyone else uses for the roller bearing king pins, how often to lubricate, and if it really is necessary to take off the drum
Originally posted by johno;
On my '98 Robin, I still use Castrol MS3 for the kingpin and propshaft and suspension stuff.
You don't have to take the brake drum off for the kingpin, but your foolish if you don't.
If over-greased the 'orrible black grease can work through to the interior of the drum making the front brake innefective and righting off the brake shoes.
It's definatly worth the extra 10 mins popping the wheel and drum off, as you can check and clean the brakes and bearings at the same time.
The official milage is 6,000 but it all depends on the state of the roads you are driving on, if you regularly drive over speed bumps and broken surfaces then I would grease up more often...
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KINGPIN MOVEMENT ALLOWANCE
Originally posted by sparesman2000;
King pins and movement ???
On the old bronzer bush type bearing sideways movement which was not excessive was allowed as it just meant general wear and tear.
On the roller bearing one though sideways movement generally means the roller bearings collapsing so a failure notice is given. upward movement, when wheel lifted off ground, on the other hand is allowable on both bearings to a degree as wear and tear is going to happen. excessive wear or movement is at the discretion of the tester and is taken into account with the sideways movement when a pass or fail is issued.
If the bronze bush the A frame sits on is near to collapse then a fail would be issued in all cases.
If the play was up to 1/16 th inch then if sideways movement was such that, in the roller bearing situation, it was considered by the tester to be not excessive in the present but would in his opinion be unsafe before next test, a notice of required before next test might be given ( advisory notice ).
If sideways movement is starting to be easily noticed then combined with upwards movement a failure would be given.
This is how the king pin situation has been described to me by more than one MOT station.
In the end you are in the testers hands ( if he's having a bad day then you'd possibly get a failure anyway )
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WELL DONE YOU ARE NOT A RELIANT KINGPIN VIRGIN ANYMORE
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