Look - Click Here for -
Edited by John and Carol Powell
Header: Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort from the sea, including Bobs' Cave.
Back to- The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD > Collection
More: Mumbles Fort Defences prior to 1918 > More: Mumbles Lighthouse - 'Keepers of the Light' >More: Mumbles Head during peacetime and war >TABLE OF CONTENTS
An aerial view of Mumbles Lighthouse Island, the Pier and on down to the village.
Photo:Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort c.1880. Photo: Harvey Barton.
Mumbles Hill ends in two islands separated by narrow sounds from the mainland. On the outer island, at the entrance to Swansea Bay are the Mumbles Lighthouse built in 1793 and a Fort (or Battery) erected in 1860.
The Fort was built around the base of the Mumbles Lighthouse, as part of a network of Palmerston Forts which was established in response to fears of French invasion, and was designed to protect Swansea Bay. (ref: Mumbles Battery, Wikipedia).
The 1st Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers regularly practised Gunnery Drill at Mumbles Fort. Photo: c. 1880.
This photo of Mumbles Fort, reveals two bricked up embrasures in the centre of the front face, which had been used by cannon, after the 1860s.
1877 Older cannons were considered obsolete and replaced with new ones.
1882 Report that the new 68lb guns had became useless, but site remained active for practice. The batteries generally became known as 'Lord Palmerston's Follies,'
1901 More modern 4.7-inch quick-firing guns were installed.
1909 Five cannon were discarded into the sea to avoid moving costs.
1914 The Battery was operational again, manned by a Sergeant and Bombardier.
Only two decades later during the Second World War, Mumbles Head was taking its place once more as a strategic position in the defence of Swansea Bay, The various units under the command of 559 Coast Regiment RA, Mumbles Fire Command, are shown later.
Mumbles Fort was re-established with two 4.7 inch quick-firing guns and served as an Examination Battery. It was supported by a Coastal Battery on Mumbles Hill, with two 6inch guns.
In addition, The Royal Navy, Port War Signal Station took over the old Coastguard station on Tutt Head and played an important part in our story.
Derelict Landing Stage, on Lighthouse Island. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
During suitable tides, a small boat was used to gain access to a landing stage on the island. In 1940 a narrow concrete causeway was constructed across the inner and outer sounds to connect the mainland to the lighthouse island. This was exposed either side of a low tide and made it easier for the Lighthouse Island to be supplied by land.
Gunner Bill Morris recalled that the concrete causeway could be very slippery and two soldiers had drowned when crossing it during a rising tide.
A narrow concrete causeway was constructed in 1940.
The Lighthouse and causeway, 1950s
The island was still very crowded with buildings when the local Territorial Army along with Swansea Council workers, demolished most of the structures on the lighthouse Island in 1964 & 5.
The causeway was blown up in the 1970s, due to its effect on the tides in Swansea Bay. Today some remnants can still be located, at each end of the causeway, as well as alongside the Middle Island. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The Steps up to Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The causeway has been partially demolished in this modern view looking towards Mumbles Pier. The WW2 Engine House and the Gunners' Barracks from the 1860s survived the clearance. Photo: Sept 2015, A History of Mumbles.
Gunners' Barracks, constructed with dressed stone outside post 1860. Photo: A History of Mumbles
Gunners Barracks', lined with red bricks inside. Photo: A History of Mumbles
Gunners' Barracks and a glimpse of the the Fort and Lighthouse. Photo: A History of Mumbles
A postwar view, from The Mumbles Lighthouse Island, to the Pier, which reveals the causeway, as well as the lines of barbed wire defences surrounding the island. Photo: Ronal Studden.
During the Second World War, 559 Coast Regiment RA Mumbles Fire Command and the units under its command -
Mumbles Fort with two 4.7 inch quick-firing guns and served as an Examination Battery.
It was supported by a Coastal Battery (temporary) on Mumbles Hill, with two 6inch guns.
559 Coast Regiment RA
Mumbles Fire Command
The Gunners' from the Royal Artillery manned the defences in two shifts, each of fifteen men, along with twenty-eight men from the Home Guard. Additional specialists manned the two searchlights (SL) which were mounted in emplacements on either side of the island, although there is a record that this task was also undertaken by the Home Guard.
Searchlights (SL), Guns (G), Fort (F), Lighthouse (L), Engine House (EH), Vickers Machinegun (V).
The gunners of the Royal Artillery manned two Quick Firing 4.7-inch guns (G). In addition, there was a 75 mm field gun for beach and landward defence, plus several mortars and a Vickers machine gun - (V).
Each gunner and Home Guard soldier, would also have access to, and be trained to use a Lee Enfield Rifle.
A wartime plan of Mumbles Lighthouse Island.
All vessels entering Swansea Bay had to stop and state their purpose to the Port War Signal Station which worked with the Examination Battery, before being allowed to proceed.
Any unauthorised entry to the bay would result in the guns being given permission to fire a sand filled practice shell across the vessel’s bows.
In his article about his army life, Bill Morris >, a gunner in the Royal Artillery serving on 4.7 inch guns on the Fort, commented that ‘this usually had the desired effect and they very soon stopped for checking!’
The Fort on Mumbles Lighthouse Island Lighthouse, with the two gun positions (marked red) on the top and the two searchlight emplacements (marked yellow) placed lower down under the guns.
Two of the 4.7 inch quick-firing guns, were situated in emplacements at the top of the fort. The Royal Artillery were able to fire 5 or 6 shells a minute, using many different types of ammunition, at a maximum range of 10,000 yds. The Home Guard usual fired at targets of half that range.
Note: # Whitehaven (Bransty) Coastal Artilery website records that 'the 4" BL MkVII french naval guns on this site were sent to the Port Talbot battery on 1st December 1941 - later to be sent on to the Mumbles.'
NB. Despite this record, the guns were installed at the Port Talbot battery.
Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort, with the Searchlight Engine House. Photo: 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The entrance to Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort. Photo: Sept 2014, A History of Mumbles.
Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The two searchlight emplacements on Mumbles Lighthouse Island were positioned in front and lower down of the quick firing guns, so that they could sweep the surface of the water and are marked SL on the earlier collage. One of the two cliff top searchlight emplacements faces the Bristol Channel with the second emplacement facing Swansea Bay.
Inside one of the two clifftop searchlight emplacements. The concrete mounting blocks still remain, which would have supported the searchlight mechanism and lens. The searchlight was set behind a metal shield made up of a number of sliding steel shutters, which were able to be closed, These protected the specialist soldiers inside when the searchlight was not in action and helped to prevent the light from being revealed too soon.
The typical photo shows the original 90mm searchlights and associated equipment, which ran at 90 Volts direct-current, and drawing around 120 Amperes from the Lister generators in the Engine House used to power them. These searchlights utilised this near-11 Kilowatt power-consumption to throw out a stabbing pencil-beam equating to just short of 2 Billion Candle-Power.
Lighthouse Island Engine House. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
Inside the Engine House were Lister generators used to power searchlights, serviced by specialists. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
Lighthouse Island Engine House still with one of the shutters. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
A closer view of the engine house shutter. Photo: Jan 2005, A history of Mumbles.
A side view of the Engine House and the ventilation openings, Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The Engine House and a closer view of the ventilation openings, Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
This cliff top searchlight emplacement faces the Bristol Channel, with Bob's Cave at sea level close by.
There were also two searchlight emplacements on Tutt, but these have been demolished, only the bases remain and these are pictured later.
The battery was declared surplus to requirements in 1956 upon the dissolution of the UK's coast artillery. The guns were dismounted and the battery disposed of. (Ref: Mumbles Battery, Wikipedia).
A general view of Mumbles Lighthouse Island, with Bob's Cave at sea level. This is the area in which the cannon featured below was found.
1978 Diver, Brian Price came across a five-ton, twelve-foot long naval gun from the 1860s, embedded in the rocks and sand beneath the Mumbles Lighthouse Fort. With the help of the British Sub-aqua Club Swansea Branch members, the cannon was rescued and prepared for a six-mile tow to Swansea, where it resides today outside Swansea Yacht and Sub Aqua Club. Selection of photos below -
The recovered cannon resides today outside Swansea Yacht and Sub Aqua Club. Photo: A History of Mumbles.
In 1978, BSAC Swansea Branch members remove the c.1880 cannon discovered by Brian Price, to Swansea.
A closer look at Tutt Head, reveals The WRENS wartime accommodation as well as the two Searchlight Emplacements, later demolished, Photo: 1950s.
The Coastguard Station at Tutt Head, after 1980.
The inside of the old Coastguard Hut at Tutt Head, in the early 1970s, overlooking the Signal Room,. Photo: John Pile
The Coastguard Lookout at The Tutt On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard.
All that remains of the two searchlight emplacements on Tutt Head are their foundations, after suffering from the effects of a post-war clean up scheme.
The remains of the searchlight emplacement, at The Tutt. Photo: 2008, A History of Mumbles.
The demolished searchlight emplacement. Photo: 2008, A History of Mumbles.
The engine house at the Tutt is now owned by Castellamare Restaurant and has now been updated, but when the photo was taken in 2008, the outside still had some original features. Photo: 2008, A History of Mumbles.
A plan of the defences at The Tutt, on the west side of Bracelet Bay. It includes the two searchlight emplacements (EMP) the Port War Signal Station and Engine House.
The map Includes- two Pillboxes (PB), Accommodation for a dozen WRNS (Signals Wrens), War Accommodation for Royal Artillery personnel who also served on the Lighthouse Island, Port War Signal Station (Peacetime Coastguard Station).
In a later photo, workers are demolishing the items marked PB, (Pill Box or Pillbox).
Removing the scars of War from a South Wales Beauty Spot
Pneumatic drills are used to break up one of two concrete machine gun pillboxes at Tutt Head, Mumbles, near Swansea. In the background is beautiful Limeslade Bay.
Photo: posted by Stephen Evans, January 2023,In front of the Coastguard lookout, Tutt Head, Limeslade Bay, Mike Richards, with his parents and sister, 1950s. Photo: Mike Richards.
Also In the background is a pillbox for area defence, during WW2, which is shown being demolished below. A second Pillbox can be glimpsed on the left of the earlier photo and both are recorded on the hand drawn wartime map shown earlier. Photo: Mike Richards.
A group of the WRNS at Tutt Head, the names of whom are lost to her memory. However, on the left is herself Joan S (Jones), then Peggy, and fourth from left is the Cook, Jean. Peggy has a badge on the sleeve of her jacket, which comprise two crossed flags denoting her rank - ‘Visual Signaller WRNS’. All except the cook are in service uniform trousers, issued for work outdoors
The WW2 WRENS Hut, when being used as accommodation for those who were bombed out in The Swansea Blitz. Later the site of Castellammare Restaurant (Now The Lighthouse Bistro). Photo C.1950.
On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard. Between 1942 and 1945 the coastguard station was taken over by the Royal Navy and became a signal station controlling all shipping in that part of the Bristol Channel. W.R.N.S stationed here were responsible for signalling to ships and convoys in the channel and every night, at midnight, they had to burn the secret codes from that day, before using the new code which was stored in a safe. Former Wren, Joan Jones, recalled how spooky it was to go on watch at 4 a.m., walking from her accommodation (where the Lighthouse Restaurant is now) up steps in the dark to work at the signal station in the old coastguard hut (the Maritime and Rescue Co-ordination Centre was later on this site). She also remembered evenings when HMS Erebus entered Swansea Bay to be used as a target towing ship and the six-inch guns on Mumbles Head would be used for practice firing between the two towed targets. On one occasion one of the targets was accidentally hit!
By the spring of 1943 the likelihood of an enemy invasion of Britain had diminished. A corresponding increase in the need for men and weapons for the Middle East and for the forthcoming invasion of French North Africa meant there could be a gradual reduction in coastal defences. ‘Seventy-one batteries out of the two hundred and sixty existing in the autumn of 1943 could be sacrificed.’ In many batteries Home Guard members had already replaced all but a few serving soldiers and this was the case in Mumbles where, by November 1943, men of the Mumbles Home Guard detachment (under the control of two Royal Artillery non-commissioned officers) took over the manning and upkeep of one of the two six-inch guns on Mumbles Hill. The other six-inch gun was maintained but not crewed, and the men were not continually 'closed-up' on the gun for the duration of their shift, but were on stand-by in 'war accommodation' close by. Only seven men would be needed on each shift, as it was not expected to have to fire continuously. As part of the coastal defences reorganisation (Flood Tide) carried out in 1943-4 the Mumbles Lighthouse Island examination battery was also reduced.
For more information
During the second world war the fixed artillery defence of the port of Swansea was a Coastal Battery of two six-inch guns installed at the eastern end of Mumbles Hill and two 4.7-inch guns on Mumbles lighthouse island. The island and the coastguard station on Tutt Head on the opposite side of Bracelet Bay from the lighthouse also had a pair of searchlights each. The battery was in place by November 1940.
Some seven hundred personnel were eventually assigned to make the two batteries operational. These included members of the Royal Artillery, Home Guard, the Women's Royal Naval Service, known to us as the WRENS, as well as several specialist support units. In addition, women of the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS) served in the Heavy Anti-Aircraft Guns of Mumbles Head > which was situated at the Thistleboon end of Mumbles Hill.
The above photo includes:-
Coastal Defence Battery, Lighthouse Island Examination Battery, Tutt Head, Coastguard Station (from 1942 to 45, Port War Signal Station) Coastal Gun Searchlight Posts [seaward facing], War Accommodation Sites and Anti-Aircraft Guns of Mumbles Head >
Mumbles Hill Coastal Gun Battery and 'Examination' Battery on the Lighthouse island were both controlled from the headquarters on Mumbles Hill by twenty five officers and men of 599 Coast Regiment, 'Mumbles Fire Command'.
The Coastal Battery on Mumbles Head had one hundred and nine soldiers from the Royal Artillery, assisted by forty-nine Home Guard men from ‘C’ Company, 12th Glamorgan (Swansea) Battalion (Mumbles Detachment), some of whom had operated similar weapons twenty years before.
More & larger: Aerial Photos of Mumbles Head, Swansea
The port of Swansea served the heavy industrial area of South Wales and was the nearest of the large Bristol Channel docks to the Atlantic. Because of its importance Swansea had been included in the pre-war list of ports where fixed defences would be essential in the event of war, although there were none in place when war did break out. By the summer of 1940 the need for defence against both sea and air attacks had become critical.
BATTERY OBSERVATION POST
The battery observation post (B.O.P.) was in an elevated position behind the guns and housed the depression rangefinder, used to calculate the range and bearing of a target. The information was then passed on to the gun emplacements. From the Post, Alarm gongs could be sounded at the war accommodation, the searchlights, and the engine room. The Battery Commander had a private direct-line line telephone link to headquarters and with all parts his command, with the Battery on Mumbles Island and with the Navy at the Port War Signal Station, who would identify all vessels steaming into Swansea Bay and signal to them with any orders.
A coastal battery in action:
The B.O.P.: The rangefinder and chartman at their post
After the end of the war, guns and other equipment were removed from both the Coastal and Anti-Aircraft Batteries. (The examination battery on the lighthouse island had already been disbanded.) Mumbles Head was finally decommissioned in 1957 and the six-inch gun battery bunkers and gun emplacements were either removed or covered over.
Somerset House, later renamed Mumbles Hill House, used as the Officers Mess and by the two carecaters, (one of whom, Mr Morris wrote about his time in the Army and on the Hill ) was also decommitioned and sold.
Today, only markers and information boards indicate what was once there. The searchlight emplacements and the engine house on the lighthouse island still exist and remains of the concrete causeway going out to the island can be seen at low tide. Nissen huts at both Bracelet Bay and Mumbles Hill were used for a while as temporary accommodation for homeless families.
Postwar, a friend of Ronald Studden named Christtancock lived in one of the Nissan huts at Bracelet Bay and noted that in the early 1950s they had prior warnings, which arrived in the post twice a year, 'we were warned that the guns on the hill would fire twice a year for testing, usually January and July and as a security measure we should tape up our windows.'
A 3.7-inch heavy anti-aircraft gun, similar to the earlier guns on Mumbles Hill, is now sited at Quay Parade, Swansea, adjacent to one of the bridges over the river Tawe in Swansea.
This memorial to those who died in the raids, was erected in 1995 by the Swansea branch of the Royal Artillery Association, commemorates the 50th anniversary of the end of the Second World War and honours the memory of the 387 civilian and military personnel who died in air raids on Swansea.
This type of gun was developed in Britain in the 1930s and helped to defend Britain from aerial attack throughout the Second World War. This example was made in Canada by General Electric, to a design patented in England. It was bought from an arms collector in Ruthin, Denbighshire, and towed to Swansea by a Territorial Army unit. A time capsule was placed in the barrel.
Cast copies of 3.7-inch shells are mounted on each corner of the brick-faced plinth. Plaques on the plinth represent services which helped during the air raids including the Home Guard, fire brigade, British Red Cross, St John’s Ambulance, Salvation Army and Women’s Voluntary Service.
Acknowledgements
Swansea branch of the Royal Artillery Association and West Glamorgan Archive
With the situation of the Second World War Remains,
parking, seating and footpaths
This Google map shows the gun emplacements, control bunker, footpaths, viewpoint, access points and car park, including disabled, which can be found on Thistleboon Drive, Mumbles and Bracelet Bay today.
This may only show War Department Property, therefore some Lighthouse owned buildings may be excluded.
Mumbles Island Fort Record Book146 Coast Battery
A typical 4.7 inch quick-firing gun, which was able to fire many types of ammunition, Armor piercing, Common, High explosive, illumination and Shrapnel.
The 4.7 inch guns were developed to exploit the new "QF" technology, which involved loading the propellant charge in a brass case with integrated primer in its base. This allowed a faster rate of fire than the older "Breech Loading" system, where the propellant was loaded in cloth bags and then a separate friction or percussion tube fitted into the breech for firing. The brass case sealed the breech, allowing a lighter mechanism, and at the same time disposed with the necessity of washing or sponging any smouldering fragments left from the previous shot, which could ignite the charge (then of black powder) prematurely.
Toilet facilities may be found at Bracelet Bay, adjacent to Castellamare Cafe & Restaurant.
Publications Many leaflets including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery, are available to order at Oystermouth Historical Association meetings.
An edited version of this article was previously published in The Swansea History Journal 2012-13.
Acknowledgements :
City and County of Swansea; The National Archives; West Glamorgan Archives; Guns Across the Severn, R.C.A.H.M.W. 2001; Mumbles Development Trust; Oystermouth Historical Association; Bill Morris; John & Carol Powell; Gareth Ellis; Kate Elliott.
Photo- At Lighthouse Island -WW2X-Gun - 4_7_inch_gun_crew_SS_Duntroon_1942_AWM_025314 wikapedia commons
Part of this article was published in The Swansea History Journal
Guided Talks and Walks onto the hill have been held held as a part of the- The Gower Walking Festival > and Oystermouth Historical Association >
Mumbles Hill Local Nature Reserve,
Contact: Sean Hathaway 01792 635749 or 07974 760980.
Nature Conservation Team > Environment Department, City and County of Swansea, The Guildhall, Swansea SA1 4PH
This City & County of Swansea project is under the supervision of
Glamorgan Gwent Archaeology Trust Ltd.,
with assistance from Mumbles Development Trust
and Oystermouth Historical Association.
Many leaflets are available to order including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery,
Available at monthly meetings to order
The late eighteenth and early nineteenth century defences on Mumbles Head
The Defence of Mumbles before 1918
by Carol Powell
(The Swansea History Journal, 2011-12
New Information Boards on the site of the Gun Battery on Mumbles Hill
More- The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD Collection of articles
Including