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Illustration: Medieval Swanzey
A direct road from the town of Swansea to the village of Mumbles was only constructed as a Turnpike as late as 1826. But for hundreds of years before that, there was another route which by-passed the burrows and beach and wound its way via the White stiles to Sketty, along to the Roman Bridge at Blackpill and then up The Mayals and over to Rivers Lane to Gower's Cross Farm and down to Norton, passing Oystermouth Castle and so to the village of Mumbles.
For fuller details of this journey, including some landmarks and people who lived along the road through the years, see: Exploring the 'Old' Road from Swanzey Town to Oystermouth >
The route of the 'Old' Road from
The route of the 'Old' Road from
Swanzey Town to Oystermouth Castle
Swanzey Town to Oystermouth Castle
by Carol Powell MA
Previously published in The Swansea History Journal No. 26. 2018-2019
The map of the medieval town circa 1400, shows a street plan very much like today's centre, with Wynd [sic] Street, Castle Bailey Street and High Street, as well as Fischer and Frog Streets already in place, as was St. Mary's Church and Goat Street.
The road to Oystermouth exited the town at the West Gate on West Strete [sic], which was approximately co-terminus with today's College Street, progressing through countryside along Gower Street, past St Helen's Convent, passing the fields known as 'White Stiles' or Whitt Stills', then up the hill near what became Bryn-y-mor Road, through what we know as Uplands and on towards the top of Brynmill Lane, Sketty Green and the Bryn, crossing the wide open countryside to the bridge crossing at Blackpill.
Medieval Swanzey
From: The History of Swansea by W. S. K. Thomas , 1990The section of 'our' road from the Bryn to Blackpill would be diverted three times in the years to come. In 1804, the Mumbles Railway was inaugurated to carry limestone from Mumbles to Swansea, with a branch line up Clyne Valley as far as Ynys to serve Sir John Morris's works, but cutting across the 'road to Lower Sketty.'
In the 1830s, the road was again diverted on the section between the Bryn and Blackpill 'through the land of J.H. Vivian.' The Cambrian published a notice on 11th March 1826, to the effect that 'an order was signed by Sir John Morris Bart., and David tennant Esq., two of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace . . . for diverting and turning a certain part of the Highway and Footpath . . . lying between a certain common or piece of waste land called 'The Bryn' on the road to Sketty . . . and the road leading from the town of Swansea to a certain place called Blackpill . . . for the length of 673 yards . . . and for diverting and turning a certain branch of the said highway . . . of the length of 344 yards . . . also described in the said Order . . . so as to make the said highway more commodious for the public. . . . and for making in lieu of the said Highway . . . through the lands of Thomas Morris of Sketty . . . who hath consented thereto, a new highway and footpath of 345 yards length and breadth of 24 feet'.
In 1867, Victoria Station, owned by the Llanelly Railway and Dock Company, opened, its route travelling along a shore-side embankment and over a bridge high above the road at Blackpill, cutting off and causing yet another deviation to 'our' old road, This section is now known as Derwen Fawr Road.
Gorge Yates's Map of Glamorgan, 1799
Published by J. Cary, 21 May 1799
(West Glamorgan Archive WGAS D/D Z 134/3)
Saint Helens House
National Library of Wales
Roman Bridge, Blackpill
Photo: Stuart Bishop
Blackpill Mill
The Blackpill river, which formed the boundary between the two Manors or Parishes of Oystermouth and Swansea, was connected by a 'Roman-style' bridge, which was strategically placed and crossed the river very near the Mill, which would have been one of the most important amenities for the community. The mill had been built near the boundary of the Manor of Oystermouth and not in the middle, as it was the only place close enough to a good water source to power its wheel.
The two granite gate posts, which mark the route of the 'old' road,
situated outside the Lodge to Clyne Gardens
The road, as marked on the Oystermouth Tithe map of 1844, wound its way past the mill, through two granite gate posts (probably later additions) up through 'Brinne lane, which is one of the most pleasant and prettiest roads . . . the trees from each side meeting', to the cross roads at Cwm Bach, then, passing Mayals Green cottages, onwards to Higher Broadparks, over the Washing Lake to a T-junction (near today's Woodland Avenue) half way between Upper Boarspit and Gowers Cross farm.
The route to Oystermouth Castle was found by turning left at the T-junction towards Gower's Cross farm and the later West Cross House (now the site of the Welsh School) and then immediately right to Norton along, what is now West Cross Avenue, passing some farm buildings and Norton Villa.
Oystermouth Castle
Photo: Stuart BishopThe massive house-building programmes of the twentieth century at Sketty, West Cross and Newton, have covered many of the fields. However, 'our' road, which has been travelled along by countless people for nigh on a thousand years, still wends its way for the most part from College Street (West Strete) to Oystermouth Castle.
A landscape painting of Mumbles
Ronald Austin collectionGorge Yates's Map of Glamorgan, 1799
Published by J. Cary, 21 May 1799
(West Glamorgan Archive WGAS D/D Z 134/3)
Acknowledgements
Barnes, R., Bethany Baptist Church, 1851-2001, 2001
Cope, W., 'Oystermouth in the late seventeenth century' in Gower 53
Draisey, D., A History of Gower, 2002
Evans, J., Letters written during a tour through South Wales, 1803
Fraser, A., The lives of the Kings and Queens of England, 1975
Gabb, G., 'Some Ideas on West Cross History' in Gower 58, p43
Gabb, G., The Story of the Village of Mumbles, Cowbridge,1986
Gibbs, M., and Morris, B., Thomas Rothwell: Views of Swansea in the 1790s, 1991
Hart, R.J., 'The Richardsons' in Minerva IX, 2001, pp 5-13
James, J., 'Some Brynmill History' in Swansea History Journal, vol. 23 pp 33-43,
Jones, F.Ll., 'The Way from Oystermouth Village to Swansea Town, circa 1800', Gower, 30
Jones, W.H., A History of Swansea from the earliest times to the XIV century, 1922
Jones, W.H., The History of Swansea and the Lordship of Gower, vol.II, RISW, 1992
Morgan, W. lL., The Town and Manor of Swansea, Carmarthen, 1924
Morris, B., 'The Sketches of Lieut. William Booth in 1783' in Gower 40, p15-23
Morris, B., 'Lieut. Booth's Sketchbook Rediscovered . . .', in Gower, 45, p14
Morris, B., 'Gower farmhouses in 1776', in Gower 58, p.39
Rogers, W.C., The History of Swansea, WG Archive, 2005
Rothwell, Views of Swansea in the 1790s, Glamorgan Archive, 1991
Taylor, B., Watermills of the Lordship of Gower, Brydor Publishing, 2008
Slater, C.W. The Corner Pew, 1919
Thomas, N., The Story of Swansea's Districts and Villages, 1969
Thomas, N., The Mumbles – Past and Present, Llandyssul, 1978
Thomas, W.S.K., The History of Swansea, from Rover Settlement to the Restoration, 1990
Walters, E., 'The Development of the Walters Road Area of Swansea' in Gower 30
Williams, G., Swansea: An illustrated History, 1990
The Cambrian, 1 June 1816, 28 March 1823, 11 March 1826, 26 July 1850, 30 November 1855,
6 July 1860, 24 May 1864, 25 November 1870, 26 August 1881,
Cromwell, O., Survey of the Lordship of Gower, 1650
Powell, G., Survey of Gower, 1764, Gower Society, 2000
Oldsworth, J. P., The Swansea Guide, 1802
The New Swansea Guide, 1823
Butcher's trade Directory, 1873
Kelly's trade Directory, 1891, 1895
The South Wales transport Company, The Swansea and Mumbles Railway Souvenir booklet, 1960
George Yates's map of Swansea, 1799
1844 Tithe maps and apportionments, Oystermouth and Swansea parishes
www.espncricinfo.com/glamorgan
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swansea_Victoria_railway _Station
www.espncricinfo.com/glamorgan
John Jones St Helen’s House
A version of this article was published in The Swansea History Journal No. 26. 2018-2019
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