The Guns of Mumbles Lighthouse Island and Tutt Head, Limeslade 

 We explore the wartime gun positions and searchlight emplacements, as well as having a glimpse into the life and times of those who served on the Lighthouse Island and on Tutt Head, Port War Signal Station (The peacetime Coastguard Station).

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Removing the scars of War from a South Wales Beauty Spot

Pneumatic drills are used to break up the concrete machine gun pillbox at Tutt Head,  Mumbles, near Swansea. In the background is beautiful Limeslade Bay.

Photo: posted by Stephen Evans, January 2023,

Wartime Plan of Tutt Head

In the previous photo, the men  are demolishing the items marked PB, (Pill Box or Pillbox) as included on the map below

The map Includes- two Pillboxes (PB)  , Accommodation for a dozen WRNS (Signals Wrens), War Accommodation for Royal Artillery personnel who also served on the Lighthouse Island, Port War Signal Station  (Peacetime Coastguard Station).

In front of the Coastguard lookout, Tutt Head, Limeslade Bay, Mike Richards, with his parents and sister, 1950s. Photo: Mike Richards.

Also In the background is a pillbox for area defence, during WW2, which was  shown being demolished earlier. A second Pillbox can be glimpsed on the left of the earlier photo and both are recorded on the hand drawn wartime map. Photo: Mike Richards.

The Causeway

A postwar view, from The Mumblles Lighthouse Island, to the Pier, which reveals the causeway, as well as the lines of barbed wire defences surrouning the island. .

In 1940 a narrow concrete causeway, exposed at low tide, was constructed across the inner and outer sounds to connect the mainland to the lighthouse island. 

A narrow concrete causeway was constructed
Today, only remnants of the causway remain

The causeway to Mumbles Lighthouse Island was built so as to enable supplies to be taken to the Lighthouse Island and was blown up in the 1970s, due to its effect on the tides in Swansea Bay. Today some remnants can still be located, at each end of the causeway as well as alongside the Middle Island. The island was very crowded with buildings and the local Territorial Army demolished most of the structures on the lighthouse Island in 1964 & 5. The ruined Keepers Cottage is one of the few structures to survive clearance.

The Lighthouse and causeway, 1950s

Mumbles Hill ends in two islands separated by narrow sounds from the mainland. On the outer island (Mumbles Head) at the entrance to Swansea Bay are the Mumbles lighthouse built in 1793 and a fort erected in 1860 to protect against any French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars. 

The Coastal Guns and the Fort

The soldiers of the Royal Artillery manned an examination battery of two Quick Firing 4.7-inch guns (G). [# both later exchanged for 4 inch guns] In addition, there was a 75 mm field gun for landward defence, plus several mortars and a Vickers machine gun. (V)

The Gunners from the Royal Artillery manned the 4.7-inch guns [ # both later exchanged for 4 inch guns] in two shifts, each of fifteen men,  along with twenty-eight men from the Home Guard. Additional specialists manned the two searchlights (SL) which were mounted in emplacements on either side of the island, although there is a record that this task was also undertaken by the Home Guard.

Note: # Whitehaven (Bransty) Coastal Artilery website records that 'the 4" BL MkVII french naval guns on this site were sent to the Port Talbot battery on 1st December 1941 - later to be sent on to the Mumbles.'  

Searchlight Emplacements

 The two searchlight emplacements on Mumbles Lighthouse Island were positioned in front and lower down of the quick firing guns, so that they could sweep the surface of the water and are marked SL on the earlier collage. 

The searchlight mechanism and lens were set within the building, behind a metal shield made up of a number of sliding steel shutters, and were powered by electricity generated by Lister generators, situated in the engine room. 

There were also two searchlight emplacements on Tutt, but these have been demolished, only the bases remain and these are pictured  later.

Cliff top searchlight emplacement
Engine House manned by specialists.
Inside the Engine House were Lister generators used to power searchlights 
Typical Coastal Searchlight Emplacement at Weymouth.Photo: David Tachi
Typical Coastal Searchlight Mounting at Scapa Flow. Photo: www.skylighters.org 

The typical photos show original 90mm searchlights and associated equipment, which ran at 90 Volts direct-current, and drawing around 120 Amperes from the Lister generators used to power them. These searchlights utilised this near-11 Kilowatt power-consumption to throw out a stabbing pencil-beam equating to just short of 2 Billion Candle-Power. 

The Examination Battery 

All vessels entering Swansea Bay had to stop and state their purpose, from the  Examination Battery, before being allowed to proceed. Any unauthorised entry to the bay would result in the guns (which had a range of five miles) being given permission to fire a sand filled practice shell across the vessel’s bows. Bill Morris, a gunner in the Royal Artillery serving on the island, commented that ‘this usually had the desired effect and they very soon stopped for checking!’

He also recalled that the concrete causeway could be very slippery and two soldiers had drowned when crossing it during a rising tide.

Mumbles Head Gun-sites and Port War Signal Station

 Tutt Head and the present Coastguard Station, which closed in the spring of 2015. The old Coastguard station on the same site played an important part in our story.

A plan of the defences at The Tutt, on the west side of Bracelet Bay. It includes the two searchlight emplacements (EMP) the Port War Signal Station and Engine House. 

Bracelet Bay and Tutt Head old Coastguard Station. The car park and the road iare overwhelmed with cars this photo, taken in the 1950s,. Overlooking Bracelet and Limeslade Bays >

A closer look at Tutt Head, reveals The WRENS wartime accommodation as well as the two Searchlight Emplacements, later demolished, Photo: 1950s.

The WW2 WRENS Hut, when being used as accommodation  for those who were bombed out in The Swansea Blitz. Later the  site of Castellammare Restaurant (Now The Lighthouse Bistro). Photo C.1950.

The remains of the searchlight emplacement, at The Tutt
The second demolished searchlight emplacement

The Coastguard Lookout at The Tutt

The engine house for the searchlight emplacements, is in the lower left of the photo.
Engine House remains at Castellammare, 2008

The engine house at the Tutt is now owned by Castellamare Restaurant and has now been updated, but when the photo was taken in 2008, the outside still had some original features. 

The Coastguard Lookout at The Tutt On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard. 

A group of the WRNS at Tutt Head, the names of whom are lost to her memory. However, on the left is herself Joan S (Jones), then Peggy, and fourth from left is the Cook, Jean. Peggy has a badge on the sleeve of her jacket, which comprise two crossed flags denoting her rank - ‘Visual Signaller WRNS’. More: I served in the WRNS at Tutt Head

The Coastguard Station on Tutt Head

On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard. Between 1942 and 1945 the coastguard station was taken over by the Royal Navy and became a signal station controlling all shipping in that part of the Bristol Channel. W.R.N.S stationed here were responsible for signalling to ships and convoys in the channel and every night, at midnight, they had to burn the secret codes from that day, before using the new code which was stored in a safe. Former Wren, Joan Jones, recalled how spooky it was to go on watch at 4 a.m., walking from her accommodation (where Castellamare restaurant is now) up steps in the dark to work at the signal station in the old coastguard hut (the Maritime and Rescue Co-ordination Centre is now on this site). She also remembered evenings when HMS Erebus entered Swansea Bay to be used as a target towing ship and the six-inch guns on Mumbles Head would be used for practice firing between the two towed targets. On one occasion one of the targets was accidentally hit!

 By the spring of 1943 the likelihood of an enemy invasion of Britain had diminished. A corresponding increase in the need for men and weapons for the Middle East and for the forthcoming invasion of French North Africa meant there could be a gradual reduction in coastal defences. ‘Seventy-one batteries out of the two hundred and sixty existing in the autumn of 1943 could be sacrificed.’ In many batteries Home Guard members had already replaced all but a few serving soldiers and this was the case in Mumbles where, by November 1943, men of the Mumbles Home Guard detachment (under the control of two Royal Artillery non-commissioned officers) took over the manning and upkeep of one of the two six-inch guns on Mumbles Hill. The other six-inch gun was maintained but not crewed, and the men were not continually 'closed-up' on the gun for the duration of their shift, but were on stand-by in 'war accommodation' close by. Only seven men would be needed on each shift, as it was not expected to have to fire continuously. As part of the coastal defences reorganisation (Flood Tide) carried out in 1943-4 the Mumbles Lighthouse Island examination battery was also reduced.    

 THE DEFENCES AND THE DEFENDERS  

During the second world war the fixed artillery defence of the port of Swansea was the 299th Coastal Battery of two six-inch guns installed at the eastern end of Mumbles Hill (Battery A) and two 4.7-inch guns on Mumbles lighthouse island,[ later changed to two 4inch guns]  (Battery B). The island and the coastguard station on Tutt Head on the opposite side of Bracelet Bay from the lighthouse also had a pair of searchlights each. The battery was in place by November 1940.

Some seven hundred personnel were eventually assigned to make the two batteries operational. These included members of the Royal Artillery, Home Guard, the Women's Royal Naval Service, known to us as the WRENS, as well as several specialist support units. In addition, women of the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS) served in the 623rd Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery which was situated at the Thistleboon end of Mumbles Hill.

Coastal Guns on Mumbles Headland

More: The Coastal Guns On Mumbles Head  

The Defence sites shown on a Google map, 2016

More & larger: Aerial Photos of Mumbles Head, Swansea 

The Guns of Mumbles Head

The above photo includes:-

299th Coastal Defence Battery 'A',  Lighthouse Island, 299th Battery 'B', Tutt Head, Coastguard Station (from 1942 to 45, Port War Signal Station) Coastal Gun Searchlight Posts [seaward facing], War Accommodation Sites and 623rd Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery   

 Battery ‘A’ on Mumbles Hill and Battery ‘B’ on the lighthouse island were both controlled from the headquarters on Mumbles Hill by twenty five officers and men of 599th Regiment. Battery 'A' had one hundred and nine soldiers from the Royal Artillery, assisted by forty-nine Home Guard men from ‘C’ Company, 12th Glamorgan (Swansea) Battalion (Mumbles Detachment), some of whom had operated similar weapons twenty years before. 

Overview

The port of Swansea served the heavy industrial area of South Wales and was the nearest of the large Bristol Channel docks to the Atlantic. Because of its importance Swansea had been included in the pre-war list of ports where fixed defences would be essential in the event of war, although there were none in place when war did break out. By the summer of 1940 the need for defence against both sea and air attacks had become critical. 

The defeat and occupation of France in June put Swansea in easy reach from air bases in Normandy and Brittany and there was also a very real fear of a German invasion during that summer or autumn. We now know that, around this time, high altitude reconnaissance photographs were taken by the Luftwaffe of Swansea and its surrounding area.

 BATTERY OBSERVATION POST  

The battery observation post (B.O.P.) was in an elevated position behind the guns and housed the depression rangefinder, used to calculate the range and bearing of a target. The information was then passed on to the gun emplacements. From the Post, Alarm gongs could be sounded at the war accommodation, the searchlights, and the engine room. The Battery Commander had a private direct-line line telephone link to headquarters and with all parts his command, with Battery (B) on Mumbles Island and with the Navy at the Port War Signal Station, who would identify all vessels steaming into Swansea Bay and signal to them with any orders.


A coastal battery in action:

The B.O.P.: The rangefinder and chartman at their post


Typical B.O.P. at the Needles on the Isle of Wight. © IWM (H 12517)

Decommissioning: used by homeless families

After the end of the war, guns and other equipment were removed from both the Coastal and Anti-Aircraft Batteries. (The examination battery on the lighthouse island had already been disbanded.) Mumbles Head was finally decommissioned in 1957 and the six-inch gun battery bunkers and gun emplacements were either removed or covered over. 

Somerset House, later renamed Mumbles Hill House, used as the Officers Mess and by the two carecaters, (one of whom, Mr Morris wrote about his time in the Army and on the Hill ) was also decommitioned and sold.

Today, only markers and information boards indicate what was once there. The searchlight emplacements and the engine house on the lighthouse island still exist and remains of the concrete causeway going out to the island can be seen at low tide. Nissen huts at both Bracelet Bay and Mumbles Hill were used for a while as temporary accommodation for homeless families.

Postwar, a friend of Ronald Studden named Christtancock lived in one of the Nissan huts at Bracelet Bay and noted that in the early 1950s they had prior warnings, which arrived in the post twice a year, 'we were warned that the guns on the hill would fire twice a year for testing, usually January and July  and as a security measure we should tape up our windows.' 

A 3.7-inch heavy anti-aircraft gun, similar to the earlier guns on Mumbles Hill, is now sited at Quay Parade, Swansea, adjacent to one of the bridges over the river Tawe in Swansea.

This memorial to those who died in the raids, was erected in 1995 by the Swansea branch of the Royal Artillery Association, commemorates the 50th anniversary of the end of the Second World War and honours the memory of the 387 civilian and military personnel who died in air raids on Swansea.

This type of gun was developed in Britain in the 1930s and helped to defend Britain from aerial attack throughout the Second World War. This example was made in Canada by General Electric, to a design patented in England. It was bought from an arms collector in Ruthin, Denbighshire, and towed to Swansea by a Territorial Army unit. A time capsule was placed in the barrel.

Cast copies of 3.7-inch shells are mounted on each corner of the brick-faced plinth. Plaques on the plinth represent services which helped during the air raids including the Home Guard, fire brigade, British Red Cross, St John’s Ambulance, Salvation Army and Women’s Voluntary Service.

AcknowledgementsSwansea branch of the Royal Artillery Association and West Glamorgan Archive

New Information Boards on the site of the Gun Battery on Mumbles Hill

More- The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD Collection of articles

Including

More: The Coastal Guns On Mumbles Head  

Walks, Views & History

With the situation of the Second World War Remains,
parking, seating and footpaths


This link takes you away from this site

This Google map shows the gun emplacements, control bunker, footpaths, viewpoint, access points and car park, including disabled, which can be found on Thistleboon Drive, Mumbles and Bracelet Bay today.

Toilet facilities may be found at Bracelet Bay, adjacent to Castellamare Cafe & Restaurant.

Publications Many leaflets including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery, are available to order at Oystermouth Historical Association meetings.

An edited version of this article was previously published in The Swansea History Journal 2012-13.

 Acknowledgements :

 City and County of Swansea; The National Archives; West Glamorgan Archives; Guns Across the Severn, R.C.A.H.M.W. 2001; Mumbles Development Trust; Oystermouth Historical Association; Bill Morris; John & Carol Powell; Gareth Ellis; Kate Elliott.

Photo- At Lighthouse Island -WW2X-Gun - 4_7_inch_gun_crew_SS_Duntroon_1942_AWM_025314 wikapedia commons

Contact the Website Editor  Part of this article was published in The Swansea History Journal


Guided walks onto the hill have been held held as a part of the- The Gower Walking Festival >


Mumbles Hill Local Nature Reserve,

Contact: Sean Hathaway 01792 635749 or 07974 760980.

Nature Conservation Team > Environment Department, City and County of Swansea, The Guildhall, Swansea SA1 4PH

This City & County of Swansea project is under the supervision of 

Glamorgan Gwent Archaeology Trust Ltd., 

with assistance from Mumbles Development Trust 

and Oystermouth Historical Association.

Oystermouth Historical Association (OHA) Publications

Many leaflets are available to order including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery,
Available at monthly meetings to order 

The late eighteenth and early nineteenth century defences on Mumbles Head

In the Defence of Mumbles and Swansea before 1918 by Carol Powell

(The Swansea History Journal, 2011-12

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