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The Fort on Mumbles Lighthouse Island
A history of the artillery at Mumbles Fort
Header: The 1st Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers regularly practised Gunnery Drill at Mumbles Fort. Photo: c. 1880.
More: Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort collection
More: The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD > CollectionMore: Mumbles Head during peacetime and war >
More: The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD > CollectionMore: Mumbles Head during peacetime and war >
Photo:Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort c.1880. Photo: Harvey Barton.
In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, the geography of the Mumbles Head peninsular and its twin islands, from which the locality takes its name, proved an ideal location for the positioning of defences for the town of Swansea five miles distant, as there had been further threats from France. Indeed in December 1796, the French had attempted an invasion near Fishguard at Careg Wastad Point, their fleet having some days previously been very close to Mumbles in the Bristol Channel off Lundy Island.
Mumbles Lighthouse & Battery 1803, from the Beaufort Estate Map.
Copyright-West Glamorgan Archive, D/D Beau E 1/29
A battery was in place on Mumbles Hill by 1803 (on the promontory overlooking the inner sound), but now, with escalating threats of invasion from the French under Napoleon, The Cambrian of 28 January 1804 reported that at a meeting of Swansea Merchants and Ship-owners, it had been decided to 'at their own expense, purchase four brass six-pounders with their carriages and proper appendages, to be placed upon the hill commanding the harbour of Swansea . . . to be under the care of the Commander of the Sea Fencibles and exercised by a sufficient number of his best gunners.' The guns which were cast in Woolwich at a cost of £296.. 13s were used when a Royal gun salute resounded from the hill in June 1804 on the occasion of the birthday of King George III and the following January for that of Queen Charlotte. However shortly afterwards, the Board of Ordnances invited tenders for the removal of its stores that same summer and in the autumn of 1805, for the removal of the guns.
This Tithe map of 1844 is marked with a red cross at the site of the Battery at Mumbles Head, which overlooked the inner sound as well as Swansea Bay.
Copyright-WG Archive
However, the battery (on the cliff between the Middle Island and today's Big Apple) was still shown on the 1844 Tithe map in the same position, although this section of the hill would be gradually quarried away over the next few years and the ballast discharged on the beach. In 1850, the practice became more worrying and complaints were made to the Admiralty Board that it threatened the safety of the Mumbles Roadstead and Swansea Bay. An exhaustive inquiry came to the conclusion that no more quarrying and widening of the Inner Sound should take place, but by then the site of the battery had disappeared.
This photo, taken from Bracelet Bay and shows that due to quarrying, the site of the battery which was on the promontory on the left, overlooking the inner sound, no longer exists. Photo: 2018, A History of Mumbles
In the 1850s, it was decided following the 'persistent exertions' of Col. Geo. Grant Francis, to build a new battery 'made of selected limestone on the lighthouse island, the range of which would cover from the Mixon round to Swansea Bay'. It was duly completed in 1860 at a cost to the War Department of £10,000 and equipped with four 18lb guns, which had sometime previously replaced the original 6lb ones on the headland.
The 1st Glamorganshire Artillery Volunteers
The 1st Glamorganshire Artillery Volunteers
Other ranks waist belt clasp of the 1st Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers, c1890
iHantsAV, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>,
via Wikimedia Creative Commons
The 1st Glamorganshire Artillery Volunteers was formed in 1859 in response to a French invasion threat. Raised as a coast artillery unit, it later became part of the Royal Field Artillery in the Territorial Force and served during both World Wars until amalgamated in 1961.
The enthusiasm for the Volunteer movement following an invasion scare in 1859 saw the creation of many Volunteer Corps composed of part-time soldiers eager to supplement the Regular British Army in time of need.[1][2][3] A number of Artillery Volunteer Corps (AVCs) were formed for coastal defence in South Wales, and by 8 November 1861 they had been consolidated into the 1st Administrative Brigade of Glamorganshire Artillery Volunteers based at Cardiff with the following components:[4][5][6][7]
1st Corps formed at Swansea on 10 December 1859
2nd Corps formed at Briton Ferry on 2 June 1860
3rd Corps formed at Cardiff on 13 June 1860 (absorbed the 4th Corps in 1864)
4th Corps formed at Cardiff on 13 June 1860 (absorbed by the 3rd Corps in 1864)
Via: Wikimedia Creative Commons
At a meeting of the Trustees on 10 September 1861, the members were informed by the Chairman, Starling Benson that if the guns were fired off at the new fort, every pane of glass in the nearby lighthouse would be blown out, although he believed that 'the guns were not likely to be fired except in the case of war.' He was proved wrong as the guns were frequently fired for long-range practice and indeed, glass was smashed at the lighthouse in April 1862. The 1st Glamorgan Artillary Volunteers under the command of Col. Francis regularly practised there and the drill was once witnessed by a reporter who visited in 1866 and was impressed 'by the orderliness of the fort, its state of readiness and by the way the gunners were able to hit a cask moored out in the bay.'
The Lighthouse, Fort and natural arch, pre 1910
In 1868, there were additional fears of an attack by Fenian sympathisers, an Irish Republican organisation founded in 1858 in the United States. However, all was not running smoothly financially either, as shown by the records of the rents due to the Duke of Beaufort, the owner of the land, in 1872-3, which recorded that H.M. Principal Secretary of State for War was in arrears by £7..17..6d for 'erecting a battery on Mumbles Head' and by £1 'for erecting a derrick for the hauling up of boats on Mumbles Head.'
Derelict Landing Stage, on Lighthouse Island. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
During suitable tides, a small boat was used to gain access to a landing stage on the island.
Easter Monday of 1861 saw a procession of the First Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers (motto 'Deeds not Words) comprising two firing parties and a detachment of men to keep the ground, who marched from Castle Square in Swansea to the new Mumbles battery to fire the guns. Lieut. Madge put them through their drill followed by a visit from the Inspector of Artillery for the South Wales district, Lieut. G. Mongomery R.A. With horses supplied by Messrs. Hand and Dogget, attached to the guns and tumbrils, accompanied by martial music and dressed in their 'rich full dresses' armed with their new rifle carbines, they set off. They marched through a rain and hail storm but arrived ready for the work ahead. Capt. Francis gave the order to commence firing with round shot, which once the range was obtained changed to 'fire with shell.' The booming of the guns soon brought out a large number of spectators and the display of shot and shell lasted about three hours. The Inspector congratulated the men on the efficiency of the corps and promised to report to HQ that they should be entitled to a certificate of competency. Afterwards the guns were re-limbered and the horses 'put too' before they returned to Swansea.
Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort with accommodation and Signalling Station. Photo: c.1900, postcard by Chapman.
Gunners Barracks
Gunners Barracks
Gunners' Barracks was constructed after 1860, with selected dressed limestone outside. Photo: A History of Mumbles
The Gunners Barracks is lined inside with red bricks. Photo: A History of Mumbles
Gunners' Barracks and a glimpse of the the Fort and Lighthouse. Photo: A History of Mumbles
Over the years, the censuses reveal the names of the personnel serving at the Battery. In 1871, it was occupied by military personnel, Sgt. James Caponfoll and his children, Agnes, 13 and James, 7 as well as Gunners James Owens, 36; John Williams, 27 and Thomas Haishay, 42 By 1881, the Battery contained five 68 pounder guns which were maintained by Sgt. Henry Roberts, who lived there with his wife, Julia and children John, 9, Lilian, 2 and Ernest, 6 months and Gunners, John Capel and John Birminhame [sic].
In 1883, Gunner Edward Hutchings of Mumbles Fort together with Margaret Wright (married to one of the servicemen) and Jessie Ace, daughters of the lighthouse keeper, helped rescue two crew members from the ship, the Admiral Prinz Adalbert, which had been driven ashore on the lighthouse island in a fierce storm. The Mumbles lifeboat was involved and lost four members of its crew, leaving four widows and fourteen orphaned children. More: The women of Mumbles Head: the story by Carol Powell MA
By 1891, Thomas Hawkes, 45 Sgt. Royal Artillery, his wife, Bertha 26, her sister, Caroline Watson, and Gunner George Rolfe, 35 from London were in residence but in 1901, Gunner George Rolfe was the only occupant.
There are two of the original cannons at the Mansion House, Swansea.
The original cannon were acquired by the Swansea Corporation and two of them stand today on the terrace of the Lord Mayor's official residence at the Mansion House in Ffynone).
In the summer of 1877, fifty men of no.2 Brigade Royal Artillery under the command of Captain Cooper replaced the cannon from the headland, which had never been fired in anger and were considered obsolete, with new 68 pound weapons.
The 1st Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers regularly practised Gunnery Drill at Mumbles Fort. Photo: c. 1880.
The 1st Glamorgan Artillery Volunteers regularly practised Gunnery Drill at Mumbles Fort. Photo: c. 1880.
A report in 1882 pointed out the weakness of the battery, that these new 68lb guns would be utterly useless when pitted against ironclad ships and they became known as 'Lord Palmerston's Follies,' but the recommendations were not acted upon and the site was then kept for practice by local volunteers.
Photo: 1887 4.7inch Coast Gun RA website.
In 1901 the three cannon on the top of the Fort were replaced, in suitable new emplacements by two more modern 4.7 inch quick-firing coast guns, .
The 4.7 inch Coast Gun first entered service as a naval gun in 1887 and was later adopted for land service. Maximum Range - 11,800 yards.
The two emplacements for the 4.7 inch guns, installed in 1901, are seen in this modern photo of 'Fort Mumbles.' it also reveals that the two embrasures in the centre of the front face, which had been used by cannon have been bricked up, which may have taken place at around the same time.
In 1909, it was decided to throw the five 'follies' into the sea to save the expense of moving them
Fort Mumbles and Lighthouse.
This doorway is the entrance to Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort. Photo: Sept 2014, A History of Mumbles.
A sectional view of a typical holdfast for the two 4.7 inch Q/F Guns installed on the top of the fort in 1901. These were re-established in 1940, more details below.
Wartime Service
Wartime Service
By 1914 the Battery was again in operation, manned by Sergeant Foran and Bombardier Whiteford. A large number of personnel were stationed around the area, with those guarding the fort being housed in the original Bristol Channel Yacht Club with additional accommodation constructed on Mumbles Hill and at Limeslade. Southend itself became a 'no-go' area for the duration.
Only two decades later during the Second World War, Mumbles Head was taking its place once more as a strategic position in the defence of Swansea Bay and that story is told next . . .
An aerial view of Mumbles Pier and Lighthouse, with a glimpse of Mumbles Hill on the left. Bracelet Bay is in the centre above Tutt Head, the usual home of the coastguard. The car park and the road are overwhelmed with cars this post-war photo, taken in the 1950s, overlooking Bracelet and Limeslade Bays >
Mumbles Island and Hill Gun-sites and Port War Signal Station
During the war, the Battery on Mumbles Island was re-established as 146 Coast Battery, and a (temporary) 6 inch Battery established on Mumbles Hill.
The Royal Navy, Port War Signal Station took over the old Coastguard station on Tutt Head and played an important part in our story.
The Landing Stage and Causeway
The Landing Stage and Causeway
Derelict Landing Stage, on Lighthouse Island. Photo: September 2014, A History of Mumbles.
Derelict Landing Stage, on Lighthouse Island. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
During suitable tides, a small boat was used to gain access to a landing stage on the island. In 1940 a narrow concrete causeway was constructed across the inner and outer sounds to connect the mainland to the lighthouse island. This was exposed either side of a low tide and made it easier for the Lighthouse Island to be supplied by land.
Gunner Bill Morris recalled that the concrete causeway could be very slippery and two soldiers had drowned when crossing it during a rising tide.
A narrow concrete causeway was constructed in 1940.
The Lighthouse and causeway, 1950s
The island was still very crowded with buildings when the local Territorial Army was demolishing most of the structures on the lighthouse Island in 1964 & 5.
The causeway was blown up in the 1970s, due to its effect on the tides in Swansea Bay. Today some remnants can still be located, at each end of the causeway, as well as alongside the Middle Island. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The steps up to Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles. There is another stairway, around on the left.
The causeway has been partially demolished in this modern view looking towards Mumbles Pier. The WW2 Engine House and the Gunners' Barracks from the 1860s survived the clearance. Photo: Sept 2015, A History of Mumbles.
A postwar view, from The Mumbles Lighthouse Island, to the Pier, which reveals the causeway, as well as the lines of barbed wire defences surrounding the island. Photo: Ronal Studden.
The Examination Battery
The Examination Battery
During the Second World War, the soldiers of the Royal Artillery manned two Quick Firing 4.7-inch guns (G). # [both later exchanged for 4 inch guns] In addition, there was a 75 mm field gun for landward defence, plus several mortars and a Vickers machine gun. (V)
Searchlights (SL), Guns (G), Fort (F), Lighthouse (L), Engine House (EH), Vickers Machinegun (V) and the Gunners Barracks, to the left of the V.
The Gunners' from the Royal Artillery manned the defences in two shifts, each of fifteen men, along with twenty-eight men from the Home Guard. Additional specialists manned the two searchlights (SL) which were mounted in emplacements on either side of the island, although there is a record that this task was also undertaken by the Home Guard.
A wartime plan of Mumbles Island.
An aerial view of Mumbles Lighthouse Island, the Pier and on down to the village.
All vessels entering Swansea Bay had to stop and state their purpose to the Port War Signal Station which worked with the Examination Battery, before being allowed to proceed.
Any unauthorised entry to the bay would result in the guns being given permission to fire a sand filled practice shell across the vessel’s bows.
In his article about his army life, Bill Morris >, a gunner in the Royal Artillery serving on 4.7 inch guns on the Fort, commented that ‘this usually had the desired effect and they very soon stopped for checking!’
The Fort on Mumbles Lighthouse Island Lighthouse, with the two gun positions (marked red) on the top and the two searchlight emplacements (marked yellow) placed lower down under the guns.
Two of the 4.7 inch quick-firing guns, were situated in emplacements at the top of the fort. The Royal Artillery were able to fire 5 or 6 shells a minute, using many different types of ammunition, at a maximum range of 10,000 yds. The Home Guard usual fired at targets of half that range.
Note: # Whitehaven (Bransty) Coastal Artilery website records that 'the 4" BL MkVII french naval guns on this site were sent to the Port Talbot battery on 1st December 1941 - later to be sent on to the Mumbles.'
Searchlight Emplacements
Searchlight Emplacements
Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The two searchlight emplacements on Mumbles Lighthouse Island were positioned in front and lower down of the quick firing guns, so that they could sweep the surface of the water and are marked SL on the earlier collage. One of the two cliff top searchlight emplacements faces the Bristol Channel with the second emplacement facing Swansea Bay.
Inside one of the two clifftop searchlight emplacements. The concrete mounting blocks still remain, which would have supported the searchlight mechanism and lens. The searchlight was set behind a metal shield made up of a number of sliding steel shutters, which were able to be closed, These protected the specialist soldiers inside when the searchlight was not in action and helped to prevent the light from being revealed too soon.
The typical photo shows the original 90mm searchlights and associated equipment, which ran at 90 Volts direct-current, and drawing around 120 Amperes from the Lister generators in the Engine House used to power them. These searchlights utilised this near-11 Kilowatt power-consumption to throw out a stabbing pencil-beam equating to just short of 2 Billion Candle-Power.
Derelict Landing Stage, on Lighthouse Island. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
Mumbles Fort and Lighthouse, with the Engine House. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
Lighthouse Island Engine House. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
Lighthouse Island Engine House still with one of the shutters. Photo: Jan 2005, A History of Mumbles.
A closer view of the engine house shutter. Photo: Jan 2005, A history of Mumbles.
Inside the Engine House were Lister generators used to power searchlights. Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
A side view of the Engine House and the ventilation openings, Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
The Engine House and a closer view of the ventilation openings, Photo: April 2012, A History of Mumbles.
This cliff top searchlight emplacement faces the Bristol Channel, with Bob's Cave at sea level close by.
There were also two searchlight emplacements on Tutt, but these have been demolished, only the bases remain and these are pictured later.
The battery was declared surplus to requirements in 1956 upon the dissolution of the UK's coast artillery. The guns were dismounted and the battery disposed of. (Ref: Mumbles Battery, Wikipedia).
A cannon was recovered from the sea
A cannon was recovered from the sea
1978 Diver, Brian Price came across a five-ton, twelve-foot long naval gun from the 1860s, embedded in the rocks and sand beneath the Mumbles Lighthouse Fort. With the help of the British Sub-aqua Club Swansea Branch members, the cannon was rescued and prepared for a six-mile tow to Swansea, where it resides today outside Swansea Yacht and Sub Aqua Club. Selection of photos below -
The recovered cannon resides today outside Swansea Yacht and Sub Aqua Club. Photo: A History of Mumbles.
In 1978, BSAC Swansea Branch members remove the c.1880 cannon discovered by Brian Price, to Swansea.
A general view of Mumbles Island, with Bob's Cave at sea level.
The cannon mentioned above was discovered near here .
The artillery at Mumbles Fort: a review.
1860 Battery is completed and equipped with four 18lb guns.
1877 Older cannons were considered obsolete and replaced with new ones.1882 Report that the new 68lb guns had became useless, but site remained active for practice. The batteries generally became known as 'Lord Palmerston's Follies,'
1901 More modern 4.7-inch quick-firing guns were installed.
1909 Five cannon were discarded into the sea to avoid moving costs.
1914 The Battery was operational again, manned by a Sergeant and Bombardier.
Only two decades later during the Second World War, Mumbles Head was taking its place once more as a strategic position in the defence of Swansea Bay. Mumbles Fort was in action with two 4.7 inch quick-firing guns and served as an Examination Battery.
It was supported by the Coastal Battery on Mumbles Hill, with two 6inch guns.
Tutt Head
Tutt Head
A closer look at Tutt Head, reveals The WRENS wartime accommodation as well as the two Searchlight Emplacements, later demolished, Photo: 1950s.
The Coastguard Station at Tutt Head, after 1980.
The inside of the old Coastguard Hut at Tutt Head, in the early 1970s, overlooking the Signal Room,. Photo: John Pile
The Coastguard Lookout at The Tutt On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard.
Searchlight Emplacements on Tutt Head
All that remains of the two searchlight emplacements on Tutt Head are their foundations, after suffering from the effects of a post-war clean up scheme.
Wartime sketch plan of Tutt Head
A plan of the defences at The Tutt, on the west side of Bracelet Bay. It includes the two searchlight emplacements (EMP) the Port War Signal Station and Engine House.
The map Includes- two Pillboxes (PB), Accommodation for a dozen WRNS (Signals Wrens), War Accommodation for Royal Artillery personnel who also served on the Lighthouse Island, Port War Signal Station (Peacetime Coastguard Station).
In a later photo, workers are demolishing the items marked PB, (Pill Box or Pillbox).
Removing the scars of War from a South Wales Beauty Spot
Pneumatic drills are used to break up one of two concrete machine gun pillboxes at Tutt Head, Mumbles, near Swansea. In the background is beautiful Limeslade Bay.
Photo: posted by Stephen Evans, January 2023,The WRNS at Tutt Head
A group of the WRNS at Tutt Head, the names of whom are lost to her memory. However, on the left is herself Joan S (Jones), then Peggy, and fourth from left is the Cook, Jean. Peggy has a badge on the sleeve of her jacket, which comprise two crossed flags denoting her rank - ‘Visual Signaller WRNS’. All except the cook are in service uniform trousers, issued for work outdoors
On the west side of Bracelet Bay is Tutt Head coastguard station where, during the war, there were two searchlights operated by specialists and other local defences manned by forty men of the Home Guard. Between 1942 and 1945 the coastguard station was taken over by the Royal Navy and became a signal station controlling all shipping in that part of the Bristol Channel. W.R.N.S stationed here were responsible for signalling to ships and convoys in the channel and every night, at midnight, they had to burn the secret codes from that day, before using the new code which was stored in a safe. Former Wren, Joan Jones, recalled how spooky it was to go on watch at 4 a.m., walking from her accommodation (where the Lighthouse Restaurant is now) up steps in the dark to work at the signal station in the old coastguard hut (the Maritime and Rescue Co-ordination Centre was later on this site). She also remembered evenings when HMS Erebus entered Swansea Bay to be used as a target towing ship and the six-inch guns on Mumbles Head would be used for practice firing between the two towed targets. On one occasion one of the targets was accidentally hit!
Mumbles Coastguard collection>
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More: Mumbles Lighthouse and Fort collection
More: The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD > CollectionMore: Mumbles Head during peacetime and war >
More: The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD > CollectionMore: Mumbles Head during peacetime and war >
A 3.7-inch heavy anti-aircraft gun, similar to the earlier guns on Mumbles Hill, is now sited at Quay Parade, Swansea, adjacent to one of the bridges over the river Tawe in Swansea.
This memorial to those who died in the raids, was erected in 1995 by the Swansea branch of the Royal Artillery Association, commemorates the 50th anniversary of the end of the Second World War and honours the memory of the 387 civilian and military personnel who died in air raids on Swansea.
New Information Boards on the site of the Gun Battery on Mumbles Hill
More- The GUNS OF MUMBLES HEAD Collection of articles
Including
Archive copy
Walks, Views & History
With the situation of the Second World War Remains,
parking, seating and footpaths
This link takes you away from this site
This Google map shows the gun emplacements, control bunker, footpaths, viewpoint, access points and car park, including disabled, which can be found on Thistleboon Drive, Mumbles and Bracelet Bay today.
Toilet facilities may be found at Bracelet Bay, adjacent to Castellamare Cafe & Restaurant.
Publications Many leaflets including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery, are available to order at Oystermouth Historical Association meetings.
An edited version of this article was previously published in The Swansea History Journal 2012-13.
Acknowledgements :
City and County of Swansea; The National Archives; West Glamorgan Archives; Guns Across the Severn, R.C.A.H.M.W. 2001; Mumbles Development Trust; Oystermouth Historical Association; Bill Morris; John & Carol Powell; Gareth Ellis; Kate Elliott.
Photo- At Lighthouse Island -WW2X-Gun - 4_7_inch_gun_crew_SS_Duntroon_1942_AWM_025314 wikapedia commons
Contact the Website Editor Part of this article was published in The Swansea History Journal
Guided walks onto the hill have been held held as a part of the- The Gower Walking Festival >
Mumbles Hill Local Nature Reserve,
Contact: Sean Hathaway 01792 635749 or 07974 760980.
Nature Conservation Team > Environment Department, City and County of Swansea, The Guildhall, Swansea SA1 4PH
This City & County of Swansea project is under the supervision of
Glamorgan Gwent Archaeology Trust Ltd.,
with assistance from Mumbles Development Trust
and Oystermouth Historical Association.
Oystermouth Historical Association (OHA) Publications
Many leaflets are available to order including:- Mumbles at War, 623 Heavy Anti-Aircraft Battery and Mumbles at War, Coastal Defences 299th Battery,
Available at monthly meetings to order
The late eighteenth and early nineteenth century defences on Mumbles Head
In the Defence of Mumbles and Swansea before 1918 by Carol Powell
(The Swansea History Journal, 2011-12
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