The History of Shanghainese Soup Dumplings

Introduction

Ingredients/Recipe

Cultural Significance/ Symbolism

Evolution (Regional/International Influences)

Introduction

Shanghai is China’s largest city in population because of both historical factors and its many unique characteristics . One reason for its popularity is that Shanghai was arguably the most Western out of all Chinese cities before the Communist victory in 1949 (Fogel 2010). This can be attributed to Shanghai’s major role as an international port and trading hub, leading to a more diverse culinary scene. One of the unique foods that originated in the19th century in a country town on the outskirts of Shanghai, called nanxiang around the Guyi Gardens, are Shanghainese soup dumplings, which are also known as Xiao Long Baos (Reinfrank; Chan, 2020). Xiao long bao is a term in Mandarin that is used for soup dumplings and directly translates to “small basket dumplings” in English. Xiao Long Baos were known in Shanghai, but it wasn’t until they were featured on the menu at Din Tai Fung in Taiwan that they started to become popular and well known globally. In 1958, they opened their first restaurant in Taipei. According to an article about the history of the Xiao Long Bao, Din Tai Fung hired a chef from Eastern China who knew how to make delicious Xiao Long Baos without following a recipe. After perfecting this, he went on to train apprentices to master the dumpling. According to the restaurant, there was a baptism of fire, where apprentices spent weeks observing how they were made before being separated into groups and had to learn to perfect all the details under tight time frames. Over time, the restaurant cultivated a generation of Xiao Long Bao experts. The restaurant originally opened as a group-floor establishment, with the owner’s family living on the first floor and the other two floors rented out to students. But, as the restaurant grew in popularity, they eventually had to expand to all four floors and the family had to move to a bigger building closeby, in order to accommodate the increasing number of customers wanting to come and try their soup dumplings (White 2023). Then, Din Tai Fung went on to become a worldwide chain with trendy, upmarket branches in major international cities, like Los Angeles, Singapore, and London. Overall, Shanghainese soup dumplings are known for more than just being a delicious dish that is very tasty and unique in taste, but they also embody rich cultural influences and hold symbolic representation, have evolved into many different variations, and have become a global cultural phenomenon.

Ingredients/Recipe

The process of making Shanghainese Xiao Long Bao is very intricate and is hard to perfect. In an excerpt from a book about Urban Food Culture, Shanghai: From Treaty Port to Global City, it explains how Shanghai’s overall culinary landscape has been influenced by their geographical features (Leong-Salobir 2019). Shanghai is in close proximity to the Yangtze River and the East China sea, which has been a huge influence towards Shanghai’s cooking methods, as well as the types of ingredients that are used. In addition to this, Shanghai is a bustling port city that facilitates a lot of trade, therefore this has resulted in an integration of many different regional and international ingredients into their cuisine. Xiao Long Baos incorporate a large variety of ingredients. People add many different ingredients to make Xiao Long Bao, but one of the most generic ways to make it requires ingredients like, chicken, chinese-style cured ham, green onion, fresh ginger, garlic, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, unflavored gelatin, and water for the soup portion. In addition to these ingredients, you will need a few more ingredients, such as ground pork, uncooked shrimp, sugar, and sesame oil for the filling of the soup dumpling. You will also need dumpling wrappers and a head of napa cabbage, to assemble the soup dumplings all together. Although you can eat Xiao Long Baos however you want, the way you are recommended to eat it is to first make your sauce, which is a combination of soy sauce, vinegar, and fresh ginger. After making the sauce, you are supposed to scoop a spoonful of the mixture onto a soup spoon and use chopsticks to grab a Xiao Long Bao and place it onto the spoon filled with sauce. Then, if it is too hot you are supposed to poke a small hole at the top, without letting any of the juice come out of the Xiao Long Bao (Pang 2018). Lastly, for the traditional way you are supposed to eat soup dumplings is to eat everything in one single bite, in order to ensure you get the full experience of the explosion of flavors in your mouth all at once, with the savory broth, filling, and thin wrappers mixing together in your palette at the same time (White 2023).

Cultural Significance/ Symbolism

Shanghainese soup dumplings are known for their unique look and taste, but they also hold cultural significance and symbolism. At the surface level, people just see food as something to eat and fulfill their hunger. But, a lot of foods have very strong symbolic representation. In the book, Food, Politics, and Society: Social Theory and the Modern Food System, chapter 4 explains how food can be symbolic. For example, in a Russian ritual, bread and salt are used as part of the ritual. The bread and salt represent more than just their literal meaning, and even more than just their basic symbolism of bread symbolizing respect and salt representing friendship. This ritual using these foods is only at the surface of a complex network of social and cultural significance that goes far beyond the food (Alejandro; Edwards; Levi; Zubaida, 2018). This shows the profound depth of meaning that foods can carry and how much symbolic representation that they can hold, even if it does not seem like it at the surface level. Similarly, Xiao Long Baos may initially seem to appear as just a dumpling that is filled with meat and soup, but they encompass an abundance of different symbolic representations. First, in an article about how soup dumplings became a cultural delight, it explains how Xiao Long Baos symbolize nourishment and unity because the act of gathering around a basket of dumplings can signify togetherness, shared meals, and the bond of family, as well as community. It is a representation of the values of warmth, hospitality, and harmony. In addition to this, Xiao Long Bao can symbolize wealth and prosperity because of the way they look. They are round, which can resemble gold and many believe that eating soup dumplings can bring good luck and fortune to anyone who eats them. Their circular shape can not only symbolize wealth, but can also symbolize the cyclical nature of life. The circular shape of Xiao Long Baos represents the continuous flow of positive energy and reflects the concept of yin and yang, balancing opposites and harmonizing forces (Juagdan 2023). Indulging in Xiao Long Bao can represent someone embracing the natural flow of life. Soup dumplings can also represent culinary mastery and artistry because they require a lot of skill, precision, and craftsmanship in order to perfect them. Making soup dumplings is a testament to culinary mastery and is a symbol for Shanghai’s culinary identity. Furthermore, they also play a very important role in many different cultural rituals and festivities. They are often seen and eaten in celebratory meals during festivals and special occasions, which symbolizes joy and good fortune. Adding on to this, soup dumplings can also symbolize a connection to nature and seasons because making soup dumplings requires using a lot of different seasonal ingredients. This reflects the close connection between food and nature, and the availability of different fillings and flavors through the year. This shows the use and diversity of ingredients needed and used that are provided by nature. Lastly, Shanghainese soup dumplings can represent culinary identity and regional pride because different regions have their own unique twists and variations of soup dumplings. This has become a source of regional pride and identity. These different variations highlight the diverse culinary traditions and techniques passed down throughout many generations of people (Juagdan 2023). Overall, soup dumplings are known for a lot more than just their taste and unique appearance. There is a lot of meaning that goes behind soup dumplings.

Evolution (Regional/International Influences)

In addition to embodying strong cultural significance and symbolic meaning, Xiao Long Baos have evolved a lot over the years into different regional and international variations. Regional and international influences have completely shaped the diverse landscape of soup dumplings, adding both depth and complexity to them. One variation of the Shanghainese soup dumpling is called “siu mai,” which is part of the Cantonese cuisine. It is usually served during dim sum, and is slightly different in appearance compared to Xiao Long Baos. They are open-faced dumplings that incorporate a variety of fillings, including pork, shrimp, and mushroom, and usually have a little roe or garnished vegetable on the top. They are steamed and served with soy sauce or chili oil. Another regional variation is called the Sichuan-style dumpling, which is known for their fiery flavors, leaving your mouth numb with their bold and numbing spices. These dumplings include ingredients, such as chili oil, Sichuan peppercorn, and garlic. In addition to this, in the Southern coastal province of Guangdong, they have their own variation called “zhengjiao,” which is known for their translucent and delicate wrapper, incorporating a filling with rich and aromatic broth. Another variation is from Taiwan, called “xiaolong tangbao,” which is very similar to Xiao Long Baos, but they are larger in size and filled with a lot of different ingredients, such as pork, crab, vegetables, etc. These are usually served with a tangy black vinegar and ginger sauce, similar to the sauce served with Shanghainese soup dumplings. There are many different regional variations to Xiao Long Baos, but they have also gained popularity far beyond Chinese borders, inspiring many variations in other cuisines. For example, in Japan, their famous gyoza incorporates a soup-filled variation, known as the “sui gyoza,” which is similar to Xiao Long Baos, offering a burst of flavor with every bite. Chefs and people across the world continue to put their own unique spin on soup dumplings, experimenting with more and more different fillings, flavors, and styles. The evolution of soup dumplings over the years has shown the culinary exchange between many different cultures and the creativity of chefs across the world. All of these different variations to soup dumplings has helped enhance the overall soup dumpling experience, allowing people to try a variety of different flavors.

Global Spread

Shanghainese soup dumplings have placed such a very strong impact in the culinary world, and continue to increase in popularity every single day. One of the main reasons for their increase in popularity is due to culinary tourism and cultural exchange. There has been an increase in international travel, leading to an increase in culinary tourism, as well as cultural exchange (Juagdan 2023). Many food enthusiasts want to travel the world and try the most authentic cuisines, therefore Shanghainese soup dumplings have been at the top of many of their must-try lists. Furthermore, this has helped lead to the global spread of Xiao Long Baos. In addition to culinary tourism, social media has been a main source of people finding out about what Xiao Long Baos are and where to find them. Food bloggers are becoming more and more prevalent and popular. Aesthetic photos and videos of foods, as well as good reviews has led to more people being interested in trying soup dumplings. For example, microwavable soup dumplings from Trader Joes went viral on Tik Tok after a food blogger posted a video raving about how good it was, which then led to them being sold out at almost every trader joes near me. Now, people have to go to Trader Joes as soon as they open, in order to get their hands on them before they are sold out for the rest of the day. Additionally, Xiao Long Baos have undergone adaptations and fusion with local flavors in different regions. This has led to a more diverse and broader audience. Different variations that cater to different preferences, has led to a lot more accommodations for people, like vegetarians, which has resulted in an increase in overall global acceptance. There has also been a rise in Asian cuisine worldwide over the past few years. More and more people across different countries have been trying to embrace more diverse dishes. Soup dumplings have become an iconic symbol for Asian cuisine because of their unique combination of delicate wrappers, unique fillings, and savory broth combined. Another reason for their increase in popularity is word of mouth recommendations. One of the most powerful tools when it comes to marketing a product or innovation is word of mouth recommendations. People will really listen to what their friends and families, or even influencers have to say, especially when it comes to good recommendations. More and more people have discovered their like and love for Xiao Long Baos, therefore they want to be able to share this new and unique experience that they have had with those that are around them. People like to talk about their new favorite places to eat and new things that they have tried to people they love, like friends and family, and then these people will tell more people if they also enjoy it. This will result in a long lasting chain of word of mouth recommendations to new people, which will overall promote and increase the popularity for Shanghainese soup dumplings in a very organic way. Lastly, there has been an increase in the accessibility of soup dumplings due to the globalization of food distribution networks, as well as the growth of international restaurant chains (Juagdan 2023). They can be found in major cities throughout the world, from street food vendors to more fancy and upscale restaurants. Therefore, since it is so easy for people to find and get soup dumplings, it has increased the demand for them and has contributed to their overall popularity and global spread across the globe.

Interview

In order to gain more insight about Shanghai and Shanghainese soup dumplings, I interviewed my dad, who is Shanghainese and visited Shanghai a lot throughout his childhood. One of his favorite foods was Shanghainese soup dumplings and he said every time he eats them now, it is very nostalgic and it reminds him of his childhood. One of the questions that I first asked him was what his favorite memory was of eating Xiao Long Baos in Shanghai. My dad answered, “My favorite memory was definitely watching them make fresh Xiao Long Baos through a restaurant window and then eating them with my brother and sister after school.” He says that this was the best Xiao Long Baos he has ever had and to this day, he still has not had any soup dumplings that can compare to it. He says that overall, “Xiao Long Baos remind me of family and friends because every time there is a big event or gathering, there will always be a variety of different Xiao Long Baos on the table”. To him, soup dumplings are not only a culinary delight and something that tastes really good, but they also represent a sense of belongingness and togetherness. He ties Xiao Long Baos to seeing and spending time with all of his family and friends. This shows how Xiao Long Baos hold a lot of cultural significance, as well as shows the strong emotional connection that foods can hold.

Places in San Diego

After reading about Xiao Long Baos, you may want to try some to see for yourself. After researching a lot of places in San Diego that offer soup dumplings, I have come to the conclusion of where you can find the best of the best in San Diego. Some of the best places to get some delicious soup dumplings include restaurants like Din Tai Fung, Dumpling Inn, Steamy Piggy, Facing East Noodle and Bar, and Tasty Noodle House. I have personally tried soup dumplings from all five of these restaurants and can attest that they are very flavorful and offer a variety of different soup dumplings that you can choose from. All five of these restaurants are all rated very well on Yelp as well. But, out of all of these restaurants, I would say that Din Tai Fung would be rated as my favorite because their soup dumplings have a filling that is extremely flavorful and juicy, and tastes the most similar to those that I have eaten when I visited Shanghai. They taste the most authentic and offer a good variety of different soup dumplings, ranging from fillings with pork, crab, and chicken. I would recommend trying the pork Xiao Long Baos if you want the authentic taste or the crab Xiao Long Baos if you like seafood.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Shanghainese soup dumplings are so much more than just a good food to snack on. They embody a cultural experience shaped into a small dumpling. Xiao Long Baos are a symbol of how food can help bring people together across the globe. They hold a lot of symbol representation and are a testament to Shanghai’s culinary identity. From their start in Shanghai, they have grown and expanded internationally and now incorporate a variety of different regional variations, as well as international variations. Everywhere you go, you can find a variation of soup dumplings that include a unique spin based on where you are. Today, soup dumplings have completely evolved and have now become a global phenomenon through culinary tourism, social media, increase in accessibility, word of mouth recommendations, and more. This increase in popularity over the years has shown how much people love and enjoy Xiao Long Baos and appreciate the meaning they hold, as well as the traditions that are associated with them. Taking a bite out of a soup dumpling is more than just tasting a unique and delicious food item, it is about experiencing something that is a part of cultural significance, symbolism, and history.

Works Cited

Colás Alejandro, Jason Edwards, Jane Levi, and Sami Zubaida. 2018. Food, Politics, and Society : Social Theory and the Modern Food System. Oakland, California: University of California Press.

Crowley, Chris E. “Food for Thought: Xiao Long Bao and Authenticity in Food.” Serious Eats, August 10, 2018. https://www.seriouseats.com/food-for-thought-xiao-long-bao-and-authenticity-in-food.

Fogel, Joshua A. “The Recent Boom in Shanghai Studies.” Journal of the History of Ideas 71, no. 2 (2010): 313–33. http://www.jstor.org/stable/40783634.

“How Did Xiaolongbao Become a Worldwide Hit?” 2020. South China Morning Post. August 19, 2020. https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-drink/article/3097791/history-xiaolongbao-or-soup-dumplings-outskirts-shanghai.

Juagdan, Alexie. How Chinese Soup Dumplings Became a Cultural Delight, July 18, 2023.

Leong-Salobir, Cecilia, "Shanghai: From Treaty Port to Global City." Urban Food Culture: Sydney, Shanghai and Singapore in the Twentieth Century (2019): 53-81.

Pang, Kevin. “The Correct Way to Eat Xiao Long Bao, the World’s Most Magnificent Soup Dumplings.” The Takeout, July 30, 2018. https://thetakeout.com/how-to-eat-xiao-long-bao-soup-dumplings-1827959964.

White, Aimee. “The History of the Xiao Long Bao.” Culture Trip, August 17, 2023. https://theculturetrip.com/asia/china/articles/a-brief-history-of-xiao-long-bao-shanghais-signature-dish.

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