Phone Eats First: The Consumption of Food in an Increasingly Digitalized Age
By Laurel James
By Laurel James
The consumption of food in the Digital Age has surpassed mere sustenance to become a phenomenon reflective of the current cultural zeitgeist. Life occurs online, and the increasingly extensive virtualization of food is no exception. This phenomenon has far-reaching effects on identity and behavior. The significance of an anthropological exploration of the depiction of food online cannot be understated: investigating digitally observable trends in food, eating habits, and environmental practices presents an opportunity to identify and solve modern issues facing global foodways. As a 21-year-old college student, I share parts of my life online, as do many of my peers. Admittedly, I am guilty of what I have deemed the “phone eats first phenomenon,” or the digitization of food on social media through means such as photography; in multiple instances, I have snapped photos of my meal before eating it. When considering my participation in the “phone eats first phenomenon,” a question arose: why are we fascinated with food on social media, and how it is affecting our behavior? This paper will provide an analysis of the digitization of food in our contemporary society and provide clarity about how the presence of food on digital platforms has transformative effects on identity construction, online aesthetics, and patterns in consumption.
In the past few decades, the number of digital photos taken has soared. Reportedly, in 2000, 80 billion photos were taken, and by 2015, the number increased to over a trillion. The intense rise in digital photos can be attributed to the invention of camera-equipped smartphones, as 75% of photos taken in 2015 were captured using these devices (Andersen et. al, 2). Inevitably, the pervasiveness of digital photography extends to food and how frequently it is photographed. The outbreak of review websites such as Yelp and TripAdvisor and the explosion of food-related content on social media platforms such as Instagram and YouTube suggest that food photography is a common activity. For instance, Google reported food and cooking as the fastest-growing topic on YouTube in 2014 (Andersen et. al, 2).
Furthermore, life is progressively becoming more integrated within online spaces. Digital media has largely overtaken traditional forms of media, such as print and TV; in 2016, 12th graders in the United States spent approximately double the amount of time online as they did in 2006 (Andersen et. al, 2). The implications of this phenomenon are ubiquitous, as it is arguable that digitization reaches beyond daily life and into the consumption of food. This assertion is further supported by the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic on digital content and food. Restrictions imposed by governmental authorities during the pandemic limited social life, meaning that daily activities- chiefly, eating- were adversely affected. The number of people who utilized social media for social purposes increased by 24.8% during the pandemic; it is fair to assume that because eating is a social event, newly-digitized social interactions surrounding food also increased (Andersen et. al, 2). Instead of breaking bread with others in person around the dinner table, individuals began to break bread online due to COVID-19, lending to enhanced comfortability surrounding digitized food consumption. As such, food-related content on digital platforms is at an all-time high: many social media users look at images of food and watch videos of content creators cooking. It is worth exploring the implications of the widespread inclination toward digitized food content.
Food permeates every aspect of society, and thus, is central to each individual’s identity. Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a pioneer of French gastronomy, provided an apt summary of this idea in 1864: “Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are” (Shah 3). Evidently, food is a signifying system used to convey “food identity:” the correlation between food preferences and individual attributes (Sasahara 1).
The concept of “food identity” would not be possible without the transfer of foods between the New World and the Old World during the Columbian Exchange. Following contact between Europe and the Americas in 1492, the intercontinental trade of crops had a transformative effect on local cuisines, upon which food-related, geographically-situated identities could develop (Nunn and Qian 5). The emergence of nation-states as political units in the nineteenth century further entrenched the ability of humans to embed their identities in food. An important element of national identity, necessary to unify groups of people in newly established states, was food: for example, Indian food synthesizes a diverse collection of regions, ethnicities, religions, languages, and ingredients introduced during imperial expansion into a recognizable national cuisine (Colas 12). In the modern world, the construction of national cuisines allows individuals to affirm their nationality or heritage or engage in other cultures. The historical exchange of food and the creation of national cuisines to affirm nationhood culminates in the ability of individuals to convey their attributes through food identity.
As life is commonly conducted in digital spaces today, food identities are becoming more prevalent online. People tend to project their values, characteristics, and interests through their online activity; social media users affirm their various identities through what they choose to post, who they choose to follow, and what information they seek. Similarly, identities can be reinforced online through food. For instance, a 2019 study showed that food preferences online can reflect political ideology. Using 18 food-related keywords, the researchers collected millions of Japanese tweets containing the keywords and identified them as “food left-wing” or “food right-wing” (Figure 1). Interestingly, the study concluded that food left-wing and food right-wing users had different food preferences; food left-wing users were more concerned about socioenvironmental issues and pursued natural, health-conscious foodways, whereas food right-wing users displayed greater interest in widely available food products and fast food (Sasahara).
As indicated by the results of the 2019 study, it is clear that food preferences demonstrate political outlooks in Japan. This conclusion has wider implications as if food preferences online reflect political beliefs, they are likely tied to other personal attributes. Food identity communicated online can reinforce one’s identity and may reflect more universal attitudes and patterns of consumption.
Figure 1: Table comparing the interest of food left-wing users and food right-wing users in certain keywords. Food left-wing users showed greater interest in keywords like “trans fatty acid” and “genetically modified” (Sasahara 2019).
The widespread presence of food images online has an observable impact on human behavior surrounding food. The explosion of digital media facilitates a platform for the repeated creation and presentation of food content, leading to an apparent rise in food obsession. Content featuring food often involves pleasurable sensory experiences; as such, these images can be characterized as “food porn.” The term “food porn” was coined to describe stylized images that present exaggerated depictions of food to arouse cravings (Tooming 2). Food porn can prominently be found on social platforms such as Instagram, Pinterest, and Twitter, as these sites are conducive to the stimuli produced by food images. When I searched “#foodporn” on Instagram, thousands of photographs and videos surfaced: they were mainly highly focused, vibrant depictions of high-calorie foods, such as pasta and pizza (Figure 2). The aesthetics of food porn are specifically curated to ignite stimuli response in the viewer. With this in mind, I conducted an experiment of my own: while I viewed these images of food porn, I vigilantly observed my neurological response. To be transparent, looking at the images did make me crave salty foods and resulted in me consuming popcorn. Consequently, it became evident to me that food porn can influence behavior, which I will explore further in this section.
First and foremost, the content of food photography can have a drastic effect on a viewer’s behavior. Viewers commonly assess the healthiness of depicted food by characterizing it as either “good” or “bad.” According to researchers, viewers categorize prettier images of the same food as more natural or healthy. Images depicted food according to classic notions of beauty, such as symmetry and regularity, generated impressions that the food was natural. Furthermore, perceptions of a food’s naturalness based on the aesthetics of an image made viewers more willing to pay for and consume that food (Andersen et. al, 6). On a related note, the filters on images have a measurable effect on the behavior of viewers. A 2019 study studied the correlation between color grading and food attractiveness in food images. Viewers were asked to rate the attractiveness of 10 different images of salads: 5 of them lacked color and 5 of them were vibrant. Researchers concluded that viewers preferred images of salads that had high color contrast and saturation, as well as complementary colors. Vibrancy appeared to signal ingredient diversity and freshness to viewers, making the featured foods more appealing (Andersen et. al, 6). Interestingly, the images that I saw when I searched “#foodporn” on Instagram seemed to adhere to these general guidelines of producing an aesthetically pleasing picture: the images were mostly symmetrical and filtered to enhance any colors (Figure 2). Through my own exploration, I found images that were not carefully arranged or paler to be less appealing.
Additionally, the composition of an image and the platform on which a viewer interacts with that image can have an impact on a viewer’s behavior surrounding food. Both composition and interaction medium can ease mental stimulation, allowing viewers to interpret a more natural interaction with food and heighten their desire to eat (Andersen et. al, 6). One of the most important elements of food image composition is the orientation of a dish. In one 2012 study, it appeared that a photo of a slice of cake with a fork on either the left or right side changed viewer response. Right-handed participants rated the image with the fork on the right side of the plate higher, and vice-versa for left-handed participants (Andersen et. al, 6). By appealing to an individual’s hand orientation, the composition of a food image could increase desire and willingness-to-pay in viewers. As further evidence for the importance of composition, a 2016 study found that the perspective of a food image had an impact on behavior. The first-person perspective induced want and willingness-to-pay in viewers, as it was more immersive, therefore easing mental stimulation. In comparison, the third-person perspective reduced stimulation and allowed viewers more deliberate decision-making about their wants and willingness to pay for certain food (Christian et. al, 1). As such, it is clear that the composition of food images can impact the viewer’s actions and desires surrounding food.
The platform on which the viewer interacts with a food image can produce a similar effect; research demonstrated that when viewers interact directly with food images through touchscreens they are more likely to desire high-calorie food. This phenomenon was not as apparent when viewers indirectly interacted with food images, such as with a mouse. The touchscreen stimulates a “grabbing reflex,” which is a natural motion for humans and induces a greater craving for indulgent food (Andersen et. al, 6).
Food porn is deliberate: it features certain foods, aesthetics, and compositions, allowing it to effectively produce active mental stimuli in the viewer. As such, it can have a measurable impact on the viewer’s desire for food and their willingness to pay for that food. Because food porn is incredibly prevalent on online platforms today, it is fair to assume that many social media users consume food porn; thus, it may be fostering observable patterns in behavior surrounding food.
Figure 2: The stylized, highly-embellished photos that were procured when I searched “#foodporn” on Instagram. These images epitomize what food porn is.
The digitization of food serves as a catalyst for a profound transformation in the way we consume food, reshaping not only our eating habits but also our commitments to sustainability within the food industry.
As evidenced by the high-calorie, indulgent foods that are typically featured in food porn images, it is clear that these types of images are extremely popular online. Images glamorizing these types of foods, however, may have drastic consequences for eating habits and could potentially contribute to the obesity epidemic. A 2019 study investigated the mechanisms that increase the vulnerability of certain individuals to eat based on cues; in this case, researchers showed participants certain images, including food, erotica, and neutral images, and measured their brain activity in response to each image (Figure 3). Results determined that individuals exhibit a stronger brain response to food-related cues than erotic images. Further, heightened neural response predicted increased eating behavior in response to food cues (Versace et. al, 1). This study suggests that exposure to food-related stimuli, such as food images, may play a significant role in eating behavior, potentially contributing to overeating and obesity. As food images permeate nearly every online platform, they could be affecting the eating habits of individuals who are more susceptible to food-related stimuli.
In addition to eating habits, the digitization of food can greatly affect the sustainability of food choices. Digital platforms can both negatively and positively shape a consumer’s awareness of sustainable consumption. For instance, individuals can learn more about sustainable foodways and how to eat accordingly from online research; I have come across many content creators on platforms such as Instagram that encourage food sustainability and limit food waste. One area of interest to me relating to the environmental impact of food is the detrimental consequences that the consumption of seafood can produce. One of my favorite food influencers is an Instagram user called @daywithmei: she reviews brands of tinned fish and provides recipes to prepare them, however, she highlights the source and sustainability of the fish in each video. Creators like @daywithmei inspire users like me to be more conscious of our food choices and how they may damage the environment.
Contrarily, social media can negatively impact sustainable consumption. A 2021 study of 162 individuals in Benevento, Italy found that information about food obtained from social media is linked to unsustainable consumption. Benevento boasts a university, and as such, a wide social media presence: researchers analyzed data from this city to identify variables that may affect consumer attitudes towards information gleaned from social media and sustainability. Concludingly, researchers discovered that social networks homogenized food consumption, leading to less diversity and naturalness in food choices. Users possessed a general awareness of food quality, but social media did not provide them with specific information to overcome issues of sustainability (Simonene and Scarpato 1). To this effect, social media can not only maintain the status quo about knowledge of sustainable foodways but can fail to provide any information, allowing users to continue environmentally damaging habits.
Figure 3: Graph displaying ERPs, a measurement of brain activity, for each image food category. Food-paired images (in black) evoked an emotional arousal from some participants, meaning they were more likely to engage in cue-based eating.
The digitization of food in our contemporary society has ushered in an enormous shift in how we engage with and perceive food, both online and offline. As this paper illuminates, the importance of food and its depiction online is undeniable: it allows us to understand identity, consumption, and behavior. We have observed how the omnipresent nature of food-related content on digital platforms shapes our identities and guides our consumption choices. As we navigate this digital gastronomic landscape, it becomes increasingly important to critically examine how our interactions with food online are affecting us and the world around us. To ensure the future of our foodways, we must approach our virtual dining tables with care and a commitment to furthering healthy lifestyles and sustainable food choices.
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