The Language of Mexican Food:Its Multiple Interpretations and Use

Introduction:  

In Mexico, regardless of where you are eating, could be in a restaurant, taco stand, or at home, there is always a conversation going on. Eating time is where every emotion, negative or positive, is brought up and patched out. The topic that I will be discussing in this paper is how Food/the action of eating together/Kitchen table represents the heart of the Mexican Culture. The main research question that I intend to address is how emotional and cultural connections are transmitted within family and friendships using food in Mexico. For this project I intend to use qualitative data with the help of outside sources. In Mexican households, the kitchen table represents a sacred place where all the members of the family come together to eat and discuss what went on within everyone's day. Globally, one of the main things that Mexico is known for is its’ well-known tasty and savory cuisine. However, in like most cultures, the meaning of food and its respective eating practices within Mexico vary on the setting which I intend to explore within this research paper. 

Mexico is a large country that has many different cuisines and cultures that are representative of multiple communities. Accordingly, traditional customs, cultural practices, as well as the cuisine of choice vary throughout the country. Making Mexico a unified but also diverse country with multiple languages and food practices. In this research paper, I will prove how Mexican food is a language that abstractly serves to portray emotion and cultural connections with family and friends. Hopefully, this analysis of Mexico’s rich culture and history that is portrayed through its cuisine will allow people to get a hint as to how diverse and beautiful the country is. 

As a Mexican American, I have been exposed to the best of both worlds. Growing up in a household that is traditionally Mexican but has also been influenced by the traditions, language, and customs associated with the American culture. My experience and background of living in the U.S but also traveling to Mexico, from time to time, to visit family members allow me to have a unique perspective on the Mexican culture that is present in Mexico and the U.S.  

Background:  

The Mexico we know now was once formed by the indigenous communities of the Olmec, the Zapotec, Mayan, and Aztec. In 1521, these colonies were colonized by the Spanish whose main leader was named Hernan Cortez. This rule came to its end in 1821 when the Mexican people revolted and finally obtained their independence. Before the colonization, Mexican did not represent a community that was prominent like it is now, but it was a result of the colonization of various Amerindian grounds and Europeans that previous civilizations were able to unify. I would allude the diversity of Mexico in terms of its cuisine, identification, and cultural practices to the numerous civilizations that were and continue to be prevalent in Mexico. As stated by the author of Food Cultures of Mexico: Recipes, Customs, and Issues, Rafael Hernandez, “Food is one of the most meaningful and one of the most effective systems of communication after language” (Southern Connecticut State University 2022). In the Mexican culture, food has been and continues to be used to maintain bonds between families and friends. It is the main contributor to the commonality that is felt within the cultures and specifically, the identification with the subcultures that form part of Mexico.  

The Significance of Food: Beyond the Pure Physical Need to eat 

Food’s Connection with Culture 

Every day that we wake up, one of the main tasks of the day is figuring out what to eat. Food is necessary to keep one fueled throughout the day and take on the trials and tribulations that the world throws at you. However, food’s significance goes beyond nourishing one’s body, since it serves as a common denominator for one’s respective identity. As emphasized by the author Alejandro Colas, food can serve as a “...series of cultural signals, outside language, to be “read” as part of an investigation into the deep cultural roots and complexities...” (Colas 2018, 65). In a study provided by the World Bank, which is shown in Table 1, a sample of the Zapotecos Community listed Culture, Happy, Food, and Shrimp/Pawn as factors that were representative of their community. Demonstrating that food contributes to the cultural and emotional connections that are felt in one’s community.  

The Memories and History Prevalent in Homemade Meals  

Food is not only a factor that determines your identity, but it represents a source of history. Mexico remains a patriarchal society and as such it is accustomed or expected for a woman to be a stay-at-home parent that can maintain a house, take care of children, and know how to cook, especially in rural areas. For instance, there is a common saying that until a woman knows how to make tortillas, they are not ready to get married. Although, this type of thinking is actively being dismantled throughout Mexico, the skill of knowing how to cook continues to be highly valued within the country. A method through which history is passed through generations in the Mexican community is through the unwritten recipes that are provided, typically, by one’s mother. Homemade meals, regardless of your experience, are one of the hardest meals to replicate due to the lack of uniformity and individual sazón that each person has. Consequently, cooked food that is replicated with the intent to have the exact taste and smell of one’s mother food, if possible, is considered an achievement and something you can be prideful of. Homemade meals, as a result, are the closest way in which someone can have access and consume a dish that can make you reminisce about your childhood and memories with family members. As stated by Lucy M. Long, “Memories of food carry and evoke emotion...” (Long 2017, 209).  

The Reinforcement of Gender Roles in the Production of Food 

The labor of producing and creating the final product of food has contributed to the hegemonic structure of gender roles that remain prominent in Mexico, especially in rural and indigenous communities. For example, during Mesoamerica, men were assigned to harvest, plant, and grow, while women remained in the kitchen, cooking and grinding the food. As such, the kitchen has become for many women in the Mexican community, their realm and safe place where the matriarchy can be exercised without restraint.  

Furthermore, because the familial structure within Mexico consists of the men being the bread winners, women are usually the ones who spend the most time with the children and cooking. Historically, the task of cooking was seen by women as a duty and mandate to their family, culture, and country, however, in the modern day, this has evolved to be seen as a women’s “...celebration and affirmation of her talent, knowledge, and affection” (Abarca 2006, 23). Woman, in the Mexican community, are rulers of the kitchen where food is made and utilized as a tool to feed their families and friends and demonstrate the love that is felt for them. As described in the Voices in the Kitchen, “Self-giving here becomes a communal act of showing gestures of love through plates filled with food.” (Abarca 2006, 24). 

Moreover, the kitchen table itself has also served as a measure that reinforces gender roles through the respective sittings that are created. The head of the household which tends to be the breadwinner and is usually male will sit at the head of the table and is served first when it is time to eat. Afterwards, the children are seated, and they tend to sit on the side of the table. Lastly, because Tortillas are an essential staple in each meal that are consumed almost piping hot, women will solely or sometimes with the help of their children, heat up the Tortillas while the rest of the household has begun to eat. Correspondingly, women tend to be the last to sit down and consume their food. Reinforcing the gender roles established in Mexico where women are the caretaker of the home and children while men spent most of their day, working hard to earn the money necessary to buy all the raw materials for the home cooked meals. 

 Representation of the Mexican Culture through its Food 

Sazón is the respective flavor that food contains which varies heavily between states in Mexico and even between people. As a result, of the variety of flavors present in Mexico, “Memory, emotions, and history are all evoked and shared within the discourse of the sazón.” (Abarca 2006, 11) which is also partially due to the lack of measurements that Mexican families use when cooking and illustrate the unique taste that every household’s meal contains. Nevertheless, even if a recipe was followed al pie de la letra1, it most often than not results in assorted flavors that will be tailored to the individual. Making Mexican food that is seen as truly authentic by most of the population extremely hard to achieve.  

A staple that is present and very valued in Mexico is Corn. In Chapter 13 of Edible Identities: Food As Cultural Heritage: Food as Cultural Heritage, the authors discuss the importance of corn within the Mexican community. There are various foods in Mexico that utilize corn, such as Atole and Tamales, however the most consumed is the famously known, Tortillas. Corn is extremely important due to its versatility since it can be consumed raw, cooked, and dehydrated. Within the reading, it is elaborated that “When food is seen as culture, it becomes a tangible symbol of a specific group of people.” (Brulotte and Giovine 2016, 202). The Indigenous communities, descendants of the Mayans, that are present in Yucatan and Chiapas are known to use corn for ceremonial and religious purposes and for having strong relationships and connections with corn. Corn, for these communities, represents a part of themselves and as a such, it is well-taken care of and highly valued which can be represented by the testimony of a Tzotzil Maya woman in Chiapas who claims that “Without corn, we are nothing” (Brulotte and Giovine, 2016, 203). Grains, such as corn, due to their extensive use and consumption, reach a point where they become representative of one’s culture, identity, and individuality so that the possibility of eliminating it from one’s diet is not feasible.  

Mexican Holiday’s Contribution to the Emotional Connection felt in Families: 

Holidays have become the best method in which families and friends can spend time together and share special moments that involve food, companionship, and the making of memories. One of the holidays practiced in Mexico that has begun to be widely recognized by other countries because of Hollywood films such as COCO, is el Día de Los Muertos2 which is celebrated on the first and second of November. This day was created to honor the memory of our loved ones who have passed away and it is believed that during these days, they return to earth to gather and eat with us one more time. During this time, it is typical to see families create an altar for their loved ones, which consists of pictures as well as food offerings. Some examples of the main foods that are present during this holiday is el Pan de Muerto which is twisted in a way that mimics skulls and crossbones, Mole which is a traditional cuisine in which chicken is cooked in a sauce that could be sweet or spicy, and lastly Atole a hot drink that is made from corn. Food in Mexico during this day serves as an avenue for the living and dead to gather and subsequently express the memories, love, and respect they have for their respective family members even if it is achieved in an abstract form.  

Additionally, in Mexico, the holiday figure of Santa and Christmas which is widely celebrated in the U.S., is replaced by the three Reyes Magos3, named Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltazar and takes place on January 6. This holiday is based on religious doctrine and is represented through the Rosca de Reyes, a traditional Mexican bread. The bread is oval shaped, has strips of fruit which symbolizes each king’s crown, and contains a plastic baby Jesus inside the bread that represents the Kings’ search for him. Family will gather to cut a piece of bread, some hoping not to get the baby Jesus, because that lucky person will then be expected to make and invite tamales on the second of February. This is once again an example of how food, which in this case is the Rosca de Reyes, is used to reinforce cultural traditions that are founded on religious values but also highlights the importance of family communion that, as time passes, will only remain as wonderful memories.  

Cultural Traditions in Mexico: 

In Mexico, because of the influences of various indigenous communities and colonial powers, there is an abundance of subcultures with several languages, customs, and food habits. Therefore, one of the main factors that unify the subcultures and enforce the notion of identity felt by their respective communities is the food choices and habits. Now, if we were to shift our attention to the Southern part of Mexico, you will see Oaxaca on the map. Oaxaca is one of the many states in Mexico that has a history of entomophagy which is the practice of eating insects and has been employed since the second century AD. As we have seen from previous readings in class, there is a notion by people in the West to view “...insects as dirty, disgusting, and dangerous...” (Looy, 2013, 132) which is also the case in certain states within Mexico itself, emphasizing the diversity that encompasses the country. In Oaxaca, the entomogaphy cuisine includes chapulines, chicatanas, cochineal, and red maguey worms. The eating of insects, in addition to being flavorful, tasteful, and being a wonderful source of protein, are consumed in Oaxaca because they have “...become a cultural identity for most Oaxaqueños.” (Hurd 2019, 553).  

A popular dish that is found in most of the corners of Mexico and has as result been considered a national dish is Mole. Mole is a food that I would describe as extremely representative of the diversity in Mexico which can be viewed by the different forms in which this dish is created throughout Mexico as better described by the “...more than forty recipes of mole...” (Aguilar-Rodríguez 2018, 603) present in The New Mexican Cook of 1821. Ingredients that are used in Mole consists of chile which can be ancho or pasilla, tomate/tomatillo, seeds, nuts, and finally one’s choice of protein. However, these ingredients are not critical to consider a dish mole since, as stated before, this can change between communities or even between individuals within that same space. Additional ingredients/ spices that can be found in someone’s mole are cinnamon, cloves, aniseed, almonds, etc. as well as a multitude of colors which include green, yellow, black, and red mole. While the Mole prepared in Puebla is known to be sweet due to its use of chocolate, in Guerrero, Mexico, Mole leans towards the spicier side because of the omitting of the sweeter ingredients such as seeds and chocolate. The origin of mole comes from the Aztecs’ customs and influence from the 1920s however, this dish has been transformed through the various colonial cultures that have been present in Mexico’s past and modern day. The way a state, community, or individual prepares Mole in Mexico signifies the representation of one’s unique culture and identity. 

Another example of a Mexican dish that has different versions are Tamales. A main difference that can be seen with tamales is the husk or leaf utilized to wrap the contents of the food which tends to be between a corn husk or banana leaf. Each wrap gives the Tamales a different aroma/flavor and the one chosen or preferred is tailored to your individual identity and background. Personally, my family is from Guerrero, Mexico and they are accustomed to make tamales out of banana leaves although corn tamales are also present in this state. In addition, I have family friends who are from Nayarit and make tamales out of shrimp which remains a novelty for some parts of Mexico but are, nonetheless, exquisite. Tamales can be sweet, spicy, or neither of these, at the end of the day, our preference tends to correlate with what we have grown up with or have overall been exposed to.  

As you can see from the examples provided above, Mexican dishes can come in many colors and flavors because of the choice of ingredients that are based on preference and availability, that have historically been found within the appropriate region. The desire and creation of a specific taste are the attributes mandatory to find commonality with a community as well as friends and family.  

How Food serves as the Primary Connection to the Homeland for Mexican Immigrants in the U.S. 

As most of us know, smell can trigger vivid memories which is known as the Proust effect. These memories can bring you back to your childhood or even experiences that you do not actively remember, but because of the smell it feels as if a different and new part of the brain has been unlocked. Smell and taste are like the yin and yang of senses; that with the use of food, can trigger memories and emotions.  

In Mexican households, a legume that is commonly encountered are beans. The author Jose Antonio Burciaga in the chapter called Spilling the Beans, explores the experience of Chicano population with eating/cooking beans and what they represent within their home. When Mexican families sit down to eat (beans) together there is constant conversation that is present which can be connected and interpreted with the saying of “Spilling the Beans” and describes the act of “...disclosing, divulging, revealing, confessing, and publishing pods of truth, facts of integrity, humor, and pathos” (Burciaga 2008, 175). Forming a connection between the intersectionality experienced in their identity by many Chicanos where the Mexican and American culture constantly intertwine with each other. As well as ironically, spilling the beans while beans are being consumed. 

In the U.S., most would deem their life as being heavily dominated by work related circumstances which is especially true for many Mexican immigrants that come to the U.S. As time passes, what was once foreign territory becomes their home which is facilitated through the relationships formed with people that come from a similar background, have shared spaces, and, most importantly, food. Regardless of how long many immigrants have been in the U.S. and therefore become accustomed to the American cuisine, within the Mexican community there is a constant urge to replicate, as close as possible, the Mexican food, that they had in their homeland. When Mexican immigrant are asked what their favorite food is/was, it is often seen that this will lead them to reminisce about the life and memories that they had back home. For that reason, it has become common to see an increase in the number of Mexican stores and restaurants established in the U.S. For example, as you can see from the graph above, the Hispanic Population between 2010 to 2020, increased by 11.6 M which correlated with an increase of establishments of 12,605 units. Therefore, proving the claim that “Mexican-style food has entered the mainstream American diet, due to a growing Hispanic immigrant population that has increased both demand and style of Mexican-style food” (Le 2023) 

Despite this rise in Mexican restaurants, many mother figures of Mexican households prefer to cook at home and take immense pride in the food that they create since as many Mexican American children have heard before it is cooked with love and does result in a cheaper meal. Being in a country, where most of the Hispanic population are low-income families the need to work from sunrise to sundown is exemplified, which is why due to work or school in the case of children, families are not together until the end of the day when we eat our final meal that typically, takes place between 7-9 pm. Dinner is where one’s day events or tribulations are discussed, which is why I can conclude that the kitchen/time of eating is the heart of the Mexican culture, especially in the U.S., because it symbolizes a spot where all the emotions, positive or negative, are released and left. In the Voices in the Kitchen by Meredith E. Abarca, the author emphasizes that within her own experience, “...90 percent of all these conversations took place sitting in the kitchen sharing a meal” (Abarca 2006, 9). The kitchen and dining table, in the Mexican culture, regardless of whether the country is Mexico or the U.S., represents the place where the emotions and connections felt by family and friends are more strongly felt. 

Conclusion  

Mexican food is an element that has constantly changed and evolved by the influence of indigenous groups and European powers, such as was seen through the colonization from the Spanish colony. The multiple dishes seen around Mexico with its distinctive taste and colors are a source of history, culture, and social factors that contribute to one’s identity and, ties us to our respective community.  

Food in the Mexican culture are used to promote and maintain the relationships that are maintained with friends and families which can be seen during the holiday traditions such as el Día de Los Muertos which uses food as a medium to connect the alive with the dead and Christmas, which utilizes Rosca de Reyes to gather once again on February 2nd.  

Another example of how food is necessary to create bonds with loved ones can be seen through the individual eating habits and the sazón that each community has. As seen with the meal courses of Mole and Tamales, authenticity of these dishes in Mexico is not uniform and vary through regions which has been possible because as stated by Velázquez de León, Mexican food …"responds to the customs, climates, and spirits of the race” (Aguilar-Rodríguez 2018, 609). Every individual’s food preference and sazón is representative of the culture, influences, and individuals' food habits of their corresponding region and background. This is exemplified by the pride that is felt and portrayed by women in the Mexican culture on their food. Which is the case even for Mexican individuals that have immigrated to the U.S. in search of a better life, economically. Living and communicating with Mexican immigrants for most of my life has allowed to me to understand that they constantly reminisce and have nostalgia for the life they had in Mexico. Which can be demonstrated through the constant intent to replicate the food they ate back home and is now only achievable with the use of their mother’s recipes from the kitchen. Not to mention that the ingredients utilized to replicate these meals are now accessible because of the influx of Mexican stores and restaurants that were created to fulfill the demand for authentic Mexican food.  

In short, with the use of primary and secondary sources, I have concluded that food is key in the representation of culture and an individual’s identity in Mexico. As I have explained throughout this paper, Mexican food is utilized as a tool within households to demonstrate and enhance friendships/familial ties and as such, has taken the form of an unspoken language within Mexico and the U.S.  

References 

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