Familiarity, heritage, and stress relief as it exists in food rituals and memory-making
Comfort food exists in the hearts of many, if not, all humans. As foods transcend simple preference and become a tangible source of comfort, characteristics of both the foods themselves and the food’s effects on the body come into play as drivers of emotional connection. Comfort foods are associated with their ability to foster feelings of safety, security, and nostalgia. Why that is has roots in both psychology and physiology, as well as within the significance of memory-making and personal ritual in forming such bonds. In my personal experience, comfort foods tap into a sense of “home” where the food’s appeal to the senses is enough to offer a glimpse into my fond relationship with both my home country and my homes shared with loved ones. Alongside my experience with comfort through food, I felt compelled to dive into this topic after seeing the warmth which those around me spoke with when elaborating on their own comforting meals and the memories of creating them. This research was conducted through the examination of published works regarding the biological effects of comfort foods, and bolstered with a collection of interviews governed by the interviewees’ personal experiences, reminders of “home,” and an exploration into the kinship ties which shaped the foods they have deemed comforting.
Why are cakes, cookies, chicken soup, and mashed potatoes considered comfort food?
While foods like these are often labeled “bad” in Western cultures focused on dieting and health, in a symbolic sense the same foods can be thought of as good for you. Comfort food’s benefits most likely lie more in an understanding of satiation rather than health. As these foods affect us psychologically, their contributions are aimed more toward well-being than how healthy they may be.
Despite following a pattern of being abundant in sugar, fat, carbohydrates, or sodium, psychologically, comfort foods have the capacity to be representative of one’s familial background, childhood memories, or notions of belonging (Chen 2009). In a study from Ulrich-Lai et al., palatable foods were noted as prompting rewarding responses in the brain which ultimately soothe and relieve stress indicators (Ulrich-Lai et al. 2010). The hedonic nature of consuming familiar foods affects numerous effector pathways including the neuroendocrine, behavioral, and sympathetic nervous system. Because of this, the advantages gained from turning to indulgent, nostalgic foods can be mimicked by other naturally pleasurable activities like listening to music, being with friends, or sexual activity (Ulrich-Lai et al. 2010). Oftentimes the desire for these foods is heightened in times of stress or depression; their ability to alleviate these distressing emotions can be seen prominently displayed in popular culture, like when a funeral procession is followed by a shared meal or reception. These meals are, of course, usually comprised of comfort foods and celebrated as a way of mourning the dead, while focusing on the needs of the living (Jones 2017).
While these foods are idiosyncratic in nature, following several surveys of various population’s preferred comfort foods, patterns were quick to emerge within the results. It is indicated in such studies that there are even notable differences between the sexes and their preferences. Generally, men are more likely to gravitate toward hot foods that can be considered mains including steak, casseroles, and soups. Women, however, tend to favor sweets or snack foods such as chocolate, potato chips, bread and butter, etc. The foods representing male choices can be hypothesized as relying on the nostalgic qualities of meals prepared by others, perhaps in their youth, homeland, or by particular loved ones. Selections made by females often exhibited more of a bias toward convenience, indulgence, and some speculate an implicit rejection of their patriarchal role of “homemaker,” (Jones 2017). The same patterns can be observed within various age groups as well. The same study found that younger people gravitate toward flavor-saturated foods which intensify saltiness, sweetness, or both. Taking generational difference into account, Baby Boomers favored foods such as braised meats, casseroles, and ice cream; Gen X listed fast foods like burgers and burritos, as well as packaged cookies and snacks; and Gen Y preferred ramen noodles and global comfort foods, including Indian and Thai curries and Vietnamese soups (Jones 2017).
These two graphs are representative of a study which had three groups of participants, in positive, negative, and neutral moods, evaluate foods. Following mood manipulation and assessment through the use of positive and negative narratives being presented to the participants, they were tasked with rating their associations with both nutritious foods and indulgent foods.
Overall, it was noted in the study above that individuals in a positive mood (compared to control group participants in a relatively neutral mood) evaluate healthy foods more positively than indulgent foods (Gardner 2014). Factors such as health and future well-being were noted as abstract, higher level benefits which participants were more likely to weigh in their evaluations when their mood was beyond just stable. In the study where positive and negative moods were compared, the hypothesis was proven correct in that participants in a negative mood evaluate indulgent foods more positively than healthy foods because they adopt a proximal perspective which entices individuals with immediate, concrete rewards (e.g. taste) over the abstract, long-term benefits previously mentioned (Gardner 2014). This perspective is what informs the idea of comfort food forming long term connections in an individual’s psyche when consumed during psychologically distressing times, major life events, periods of grief, etc. as turning toward instant gratification is often what prompts comfort in such moments.
As stress is often associated with comfort foods, it is important to note the effects of stress on the body which said foods aid in mitigating. Stress on a regular basis fosters a state of hypervigilance, one which puts the individual in a constant fight, flight, or fawn response. Fat deposits in the body are then capable of sending a signal which decreases the amount of stress-related chemicals present in the body. However, when this hormone, cortisol, remains elevated in the adrenal glands, the effects of this stress are often correlated with a marked preference for soothing foods and behavior that can be considered compulsive and pleasure seeking (Jones 2017). The hedonic response to comfort foods also plays a role in what makes them so personal and special to the individual. Purely sensory pleasures can be derived from the taste, texture, aroma, and mouthfeel of a person’s favorite comfort foods, and when this is paired with emotional bonds to a food’s emotional history its ability to afford solace to its consumer can be easily observed.
Because food is a requirement for everyday life, humans have found that repetition and familiarity in its preparation forms a fondness which compounds over time, adding value to the act of preparation and consumption. As these habits take on the emotional weight of memories through daily contact, they are noted as being “comforting,” “nostalgic,” “soothing,” and “warm.” Attention to this feature of daily life offers powerful glimpses into the social worlds and deeply personal meanings we impart on our lives. A piece of this ritual formation worth noting is its setting, whether that be in the public or private spheres depends on both the enjoyer and the food to be enjoyed. The analysis of the public sphere has its roots in the alehouses, coffeehouses, salons, and taverns of Greece, Rome, London, and Italy as bourgeois intellectuals flexed their political prowess while breaking bread and lightening the mood (Colas 2018). As the restaurant and dining industry has shifted dramatically to suit today’s society, the motives behind bringing consumption into the public sphere may have changed, but the value of dining amongst the public has not. Take this quote from Alejandro Colas’, Food, Politics, and Society: Social Theory and the Modern Food System, “round the table where we eat and drink with others in public, we are all the same– consumers of the items placed before us;” at its core, this is what public dining offers to its partaking consumers: sameness (Colas 2018). Today, countless people consider foods they can only obtain at specific restaurants their place of comfort. For example, an interview with Hana Nathan revealed that her reoccurring comfort food since moving to San Diego for college is the chicken of Dave’s Hot Chicken, a nationwide fast food franchise. For Hana, the fact that she happened to eat Dave’s fried chicken primarily when she was down or stressed caused the food to evolve in its ability to provide comfort and eventually cement its procurement as a ritual in her life (Nathan 2024). In entering this loudly decorated, casual dining experience, she mentioned it was easier to mindlessly enjoy her meal while processing her emotional state away from the prodding gaze of those in her life (Nathan 2024). With their style of brightly colored, heavily stimulating decor, and music, along with truly hot chicken, a public sphere such as this one provides enough distraction to allow the physical element of eating ritual-associated foods to express their stress dampening qualities without needing to be consumed in private. Another feature of enjoying comfort foods hailing from restaurant kitchens is their propensity for consistency. Where home cooking often takes precedent as the birthplace of comfort foods, the current model of society’s fast paced and exhaustive tendencies have funneled fast foods into the world of comfort. Here, when a person orders their comfort meal of choice, it is served to them hot, fast, fresh, and generally the same as every other time they have had it. That person’s reliance on this particular dining experience is what leads to becoming a “regular,” forming a personal ritual around this meal preparation, and placing meaning on those feelings associated with repetitive eating.
In my personal experience, a comfort food deeply ingrained in my life is a tray of oysters, eaten raw and doused with a combination of mignonette, fresh lemon juice, and the hot sauce of my choosing. The first time I enjoyed a variation of this food was in the backyard at family gatherings where my dad could often be found grilling oysters alongside the other uncles, all laughing and enjoying a beer together. He would painstakingly grill and shuck the hot mollusks and take the time to set each one up the way he liked it, lots of lemon, just a drop of hot sauce. Unfortunately for him, this was also my favorite way of eating them at the time and I gleefully slurped up many of the oysters he prepared for himself. In my opinion, this small ritual of watching each morsel be individually constructed and swooping in to take the best bites, much to the dismay of my poor, hungry dad, made the unsuspecting filter feeder taste all the more delectable and warm. The food remains a top favorite of mine, but the ritual of eating it has been transferred to the public sphere. More commonly now, my oysters are enjoyed at Ironside Fish and Oyster, specifically during their weekly happy hour, in which the oysters are served in the manner first mentioned. As I most often order them to share with my partner, the ritual is as follows: we each pick an oyster (smaller ones first, fatter, more succulent ones last!), they squeeze the lemon for us, I scoop small spoons of mignonette on both, we hot sauce separately, and a quick “cheers!” sends them on their way. This reinvention of a practice which already held significant weight in my life perfectly exemplifies Colas’ determination that repetition in food habits plays a key role in perpetuating the symbolic power of food (Colas 2018). In this case, the formation of such traditions and processes highlight how the food has become tied to various types of kinship in my life, undoubtedly strengthening my bond with oysters as I carry very fond memories where they have made several appearances. As ritualistic patterns and repetition contribute to memory-making and kinship, comfort soon follows.
A common theme in the world of comfort food is its penchant for emerging from memories made at “home.” What might “home” entail? Its wide variety of associations may include one’s current physical place of residence, a place shared with loved ones, where one’s childhood took place, one’s home country, where one’s parents live, even just in the presence of one’s significant other “home” can be found. Here, memories are made and as time passes, a wistful longing or sentimental affection for either the life events taking place there or the sensations associated with them gain a key factor in the formation of comfort foods: nostalgia. Where nostalgia often materializes in childhood, the reality for many adults is that they eventually move away from this kind of home, either for college, marriage, emigration, etc.. Later accessing these foods after time has passed, many of the emotional ties previously mentioned are then able to provide immense comfort, stress relief, security, and solace as their capacity for indulgence outweighs the need for nutrition or health. Often what makes food special to us is its ability to transport us back to the home we might have missed so much.
As the restaurant industry informs businesses on how to tap into these emotions, ultimately driving a bounty of successful transactions, one tool used in adapting a business to this concept of home is seen in Demi Simi’s, “Glocalization of Subway in India: How a US Giant Has Adapted in the Asian Subcontinent.” In this reading, “glocalization” is introduced as a portmanteau of globalization and localization, wherein a business both universalizes and particularizes its practices to suit both the local culture and global appeal of its menu and location (Simi 2015). When done correctly, this practice has the ability to take a globally enjoyed food and expand its appeal to those enmeshed in the local culture. The introduction of such accommodations is often followed by the surrounding population embracing the introduced cuisine to a greater extent than they otherwise would have, either to the delight or dismay of those seeking authenticity in the original style of cooking. For example, here in North Park, San Diego, a restaurant titled Shank and Bone specializes in Vietnamese fare. In this case, the restaurant has been “glocalized” to suit its trendy, Instagrammable neighborhood, and boasts wagyu and bone marrow on its menu to draw in an Americanized crowd. In a statement from Dorothy Le, my partner of Vietnamese descent, they commented on how their personal favorite comfort food, a hot bowl of pho, was still tasty here, but did not satisfy their wistful longing for the flavors and experience of home. An American on the other hand, might enter a place like this and feel comfortable exploring unfamiliar Vietnamese dishes they might not otherwise be inclined to try out. Because this restaurant was glocalized to the audience found in North Park, it may not appeal to the tastes of a Vietnamese person seeking authenticity, but to an American audience its playfulness and bold theming can be enough to keep them grounded in an American identity and environment while navigating something new. On the other end of the spectrum, the classic Vietnamese restaurant, like Phở Duyên Mai in Kearny Mesa for example, taps into a sense of home for an audience of Vietnamese people, instead bringing the comfort of familiarity into the public sphere. These types of restaurants take more global considerations than local ones, appealing to the senses in ways Americans are not always accustomed to. Dorothy mentioned aspects like the smell of the broth and herbs wafting through the restaurant, the Viet speakers who react happily to taking your order when it’s in their language, the unpretentious ambiance, and the restaurant owner’s children sitting at a table doing homework, just to name a few, are what most contributed to a feeling of comfort at home, through public dining experiences alone. They rely on memories of craving this soup dish after a hard day or long night and knowing that the most unsuspecting “mom and pop” shop with medium reviews and old, worn out menus would have the best broth, good enough to leave them wanting more and hoping to repeat the process all over again. For Dorothy, they have formulated the criteria for ‘most homelike dining’ through lived experience, understanding that in order to seek out their comfort food and be assured that it will actually bring them comfort, the restaurant must take these cultural preferences into account so that the people who share the same heritage can set their expectations accordingly.
Phở Duyên Mai
Kearny Mesa, San Diego
Shank and Bone
North Park, San Diego
For others, specifically those who share my heritage, Filipino food is built upon a foundation of warmth, comfort, and family. The act of cooking, especially, is one which invites the whole family to gawk at whatever’s going on in the kitchen as the aromas fill the air and kinship ties from mother to son, aunt to nephew, grandmother to granddaughter, emerge in this team effort. For one dear friend named Jared Camat, a classic dish called Palabok brings him endless nostalgia and comfort (Camat 2024). The dish begins with a bed of rice noodles, heavily coated in a rich, orangey-yellow shrimp and pork sauce, and is topped with crushed chicharron, hard boiled eggs, green onion, and a heaping squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Jared eagerly described his fond memories of first enjoying the dish, stating that the, “warm and radiant presentation ensnared my senses beyond this realm where hunger is sated,” and credited his aunt with being the first to prepare this dish for him when he was only 9 (Camat 2024). For him, this memory he shared with this family member in childhood is enough to have his taste buds waltzing and his worries left at the door (Camat 2024). Another friend who shares our Filipino heritage, Kai Catapang, prefers to seek comfort in a different dish, Dinuguan. This dish is infamous for its main ingredient: pork blood, which causes its nearly black coloration. While some may find this dish daunting, for many Filipinos including myself, it is a rich, garlicky stew whose flavor can be described as hearty, porky, vinegary, and incredibly savory. For Kai, this meal is immensely rooted in his kin as he shared that his mother craved this dish the most when she was pregnant with him, and the comfort she sought seemed to transfer to him in utero (Catapang 2024). His preference is a rare case of a comfort food being literally inherited from a loved one, even stating that his love for his mother is a major contributor to his love for the dish (Catapang 2024). In Lucy M. Long’s, “Comfort Food in Culinary Tourism: Negotiating ‘Home’ as Exotic and Familiar,” Long defines a part of what grounds comfort food in home as, “cooking and eating styles that emphasize quantity, relaxation, and a lack of any physical or psychological or emotional stress,” (Long 2017). In each of these instances, personal attachments and emotional ties to these foods were formed at times where they could indulge without worries (childhood) and they could then carry that sensation into adulthood for times when they need to lighten their current worries by turning to something familiar and warm. The significant social relationships that foster and introduce these food habits or cravings are consistent with most of the population’s idea of comfort food: cooked with love, by someone you love. Because of this, these foods have the power to strengthen those bonds with those kinfolk and vice versa, especially as those ties take place in a “home” my interviewees no longer reside at. They both described these meals’ abilities to transport them to the places they call “home,” emphasizing that that characterization of their favorite dishes remains a defining factor in differentiating a regular dish from a true comfort food.
In conclusion, comfort food can exist in any and all dishes. What determines that dish is entirely up to the individual, but often relies heavily on heritage, nostalgia, and the significant social relationships tied to the dish. What remains consistent, however, is comfort food’s ability to relieve stress from both a psychological and physical standpoint as such emotionally demanding moods give rise to pleasure-seeking behaviors. The desire to seek familiarity does not always have to take place at home, so much as it relies on repetition and the ability to form personal rituals. Whether these rituals take place in the private or public sphere is dependent on the dish, but the soothing component of any of these meals is what keeps the consumer coming back for more. Lastly, as the memories associated with comfort foods transport the enjoyer to a better time, their bond with both the food and the loved ones linked with its preparation never fails to take a regular dish and make it into something special.
Camat, Jared and Gabrielle Jimenez. 2024. An interview with Jared Camat on March 4, 2024. 5 min. San Diego: Unpublished audio transcript.
Catapang, Kai and Gabrielle Jimenez. 2024. An interview with Kai Catapang on March 5, 2024. 5 min. San Diego: Unpublished audio transcript
Chen, Nancy N. “Dietary Prescriptions and Comfort Foods.” In Food, Medicine, and the Quest for Good Health, 53–76. Columbia University Press, 2009. http://www.jstor.org/stable/10.7312/chen13484.7.
Colas, Alejandro. Food, politics, and Society: Social Theory and the Modern Food System. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2018.
Gardner, Meryl P., Brian Wansink, Junyong Kim, and Se-Bum Park. “Better Moods for Better Eating?: How Mood Influences Food Choice.” Journal of Consumer Psychology 24, no. 3 (2014): 320–35. https://www.jstor.org/stable/26618010.
Jones, Michael Owen. “‘Stressed’ Spelled Backwards Is ‘Desserts’: Self-Medicating Moods with Foods.” In Comfort Food: Meanings and Memories, edited by Michael Owen Jones and Lucy M. Long, 17–41. University Press of Mississippi, 2017. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv5jxmmz.4.
Long, Lucy M. “Comfort Food in Culinary Tourism: Negotiating ‘Home’ as Exotic and Familiar.” In Comfort Food: Meanings and Memories, edited by Lucy M. Long and Michael Owen Jones, 126–49. University Press of Mississippi, 2017. https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv5jxmmz.10.
Nathan, Hana and Gabrielle Jimenez. 2024. An interview with Hana Nathan on March 6, 2024. 6 min. San Diego: Unpublished audio transcript.
Simi, Demi, and Jonathan Matusitz. “Glocalization of Subway in India: How a US Giant Has Adapted in the Asian Subcontinent.” Journal of Asian and African Studies 52, no. 5 (August 9, 2015): 573–85. https://doi.org/10.1177/0021909615596764.
Ulrich-Lai, Yvonne M., Anne M. Christiansen, Michelle M. Ostrander, Amanda A. Jones, Kenneth R. Jones, Dennis C. Choi, Eric G. Krause, et al. “Pleasurable Behaviors Reduce Stress via Brain Reward Pathways.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America 107, no. 47 (2010): 20529–34. http://www.jstor.org/stable/25756731.