FILM SLATE
Prepping the Acrylic
Step 1
Download and open this template file.
Pick which template you'd like to use and modify it to your liking. You may easily change the font by clicking on the text and picking a new font in the dropdown menu.
You can also change the design itself if you feel more comfortable with Illustrator.
Step 2
Once you've chosen your preferred template, click on "edit artboards" on the right side panel under "properties". This will enter artboard editing view.
Artboards are like Illustrator's version of a canvas. Multiple artboards are like having multiple pieces of paper, which is great for duplicate designs like this one, but we won't need the extra once we've chosen the template we want to use.
Step 3
The artboard outlined in blue is the selected artboard. Once selected, click backspace/delete to delete it.
Step 4
You may notice that the designs from that artboard remains, despite the artboard itself being deleted. That's okay! Just drag your cursor around the templates you won't be using (they will highlight in blue/red, make sure to select all of it!) and hit backspace/delete again.
Step 5
You should be left with something that looks like this.
Step 6
Please follow the First Cut tutorial for engraving and cutting a 1/8th inch white acrylic sheet. Ask a staff member if you have any questions.
Leave the masking on the acrylic and set aside.
Cutting the Hinges
Step 1
We will be using the waterjet for our hinges. You can find the file here.
Please follow the First Cut guide for prepping and using the waterjet.
Step 2
Once your hinges have been cut, use the green burring tool to remove burrs from the insides of the holes.
Step 3
Use the belt sander to smooth out the outside edges of your hinges so they are less sharp to the touch.
This step does not need to be perfect, as they will not be handled in the final product, but it is a good idea for your safety while assembling.
Set aside your hinges for later.
Creating the Wood
Step 1
We will be using the table saw and miter saw for creating our wooden sticks. It is assumed you have an 11in x 2in x 3/4in piece of solid wood to begin with. If you do not have this, please ask a staff member for help in obtaining one.
Starting with the table saw, have a staff member change out the guide to allow you to cut a groove in your wood.
Step 2
Have a staff member help you lower/raise the blade so that it is 1/4 inch from the table. It's best to use a ruler placed next to the blade for this.
Move the wall side-to-side so that it is 1/2 inch from the blade. It should match the line pictured here.
Step 3
Pick the large side of the wood you like most and orient it toward the right side of the table saw (the side with the "wall"). This side will be the back of your sticks, the one without the sticker on it.
Pick the length side of the wood that you like least and orient it facing down on the table saw bed. This will be the bottom of the sticks.
Run the piece of wood over the blade to cut a groove along the length of the entire thing.
Step 4
Turn your wood so the back side (the side you picked in the previous step) is facing down and the groove side is facing toward you.
Using a ruler, draw a 3/4 inch-long line across the top right corner OR use the acrylic template provided at the front of the room to draw the line like a stencil.
Step 5
Travel over to the miter saw and set it to a 45° angle, as pictured. Line up the laser of the miter saw with the line you drew on your wood and perform the cut.
To perform a cut on a miter saw, hold the wood with your left hand and grasp the handle with your right hand. Push in the buttons for your thumb and fingers at the same time, pull the saw down, and then push the saw away from you until the cut is complete.
Step 6
Return to the table saw.
Have a staff member change out the guide back to the one for cutting through wood and raise the blade to just above the height of your wood.
Position the blade 1 inch away from the wall, this should cut your wood in half, separating the two sticks.
Step 7
Next, we must drill the holes for the screws to go through. Have a staff member change out the drill press bit to the size 22 imperial bit or the size 4 metric bit.
Place your sticks together so the groove is closer to the top and the cut off corner is on the left side facing down, as pictured.
Step 8
Using your metal hinge, lay it across the sticks (with some room around the edges) and mark the holes with a pencil. Try to make these marks as accurate as possible, rotating your pencil in the hole to make a nice circle.
Step 9
Take your wood to the drill press and lightly clamp it in so that it's tight but not damaging the wood.
Position the drill using the circular handles on the front and side of the press, trying to get the drill bit as close to your circle mark as possible. It sometimes helps to lower the drill using the rotating handle on the side of the top to check your accuracy.
Step 10
Once you are happy with the placement of the drill bit, flip the switch on the left side of the drill to "forward" and slowly lower the drill all of the way through your wood and back.
Repeat for all three holes.
Step 11
You should now have two wooden sticks; one with a groove and another with a corner cut off, both with holes drilled into them.
Step 12
Beginning with 220 grit sandpaper, sand your wood thoroughly up to 800 grit, or until your liking.
Remember, this will be the primary place the slate will be handled while on set! It's important to have the wood be smooth and safe to hold for your 2nd AC.
Step 13
Finally, use Linseed oil to seal and finish your sticks. A staff member can provide this for you.
Take a rag and use a sparing amount of oil to rub all around your sticks until they are nice and shiny! This will protect them from the weather and make them look beautiful.
Painting
Step 1
Take the painting box (ask a staff member if you cannot find it) outside and place both your hinges and masked acrylic inside.
Make sure to have your hinges facing opposite ways; we will only be painting one side of them.
Step 2
Using a black spray paint of your choice, thoroughly spray the engraved areas of the acrylic and the entirety of your hinges.
Make sure to spray the engraved parts from both the top and bottom of the slate so that you can get in every angle of the lettering.
Step 3
Leave your pieces to dry. I recommend pausing your project here and waiting 24 hours for the paint to fully cure, but it is not required.
Stickers
Step 1
It's time to print the stickers for the top of the slate!
You may choose the black and white or color design.
Step 2
Upload your file into the computer connected to the Roland Vinyl Printer-Cutter and have a staff member change the material to matte sticker paper.
Set up your sticker job following the Sticker and Poster Quickstart Guide. Run the job.
Step 3
Once the linseed oil on your sticks is cured (recommended 24 hours dry time), carefully place your stickers onto your sticks, making sure to line up the holes in the design with the holes in your wood.
Assembly
Step 1
We're almost there!
Start by placing your metal hinges on the front and back of your sticks, lining them up with the holes. The painted sides should be facing out.
Step 2
Fit M4 25mm machine screws into your three holes. Place M4 cap nuts on the other side to sandwich everything together and tighten!
The more you tighten your top screw, the stiffer your sticks will be when clapped together. You want to find a good balance that allows for the sticks to stay open on their own but can be easily clapped down with just your thumb!
Step 3
Peel the masking off of your acrylic. Be careful, if you get any uncured paint on your fingertips or under your nails, you may smear it onto the clean white acrylic underneath.
You can use tweezers to help peel off the masking if you're having trouble!
Step 4
Place a small strip of super glue along the top edge of your acrylic and fit it into the groove in your wood, making sure to line up the edges of the slate with the edges of the wood as best you can.
Leave the glue to dry. I suggest placing it upside-down so that gravity helps hold the acrylic in the groove while you wait.
Step 5
Once the glue is dry, you can begin using your slate! Congrats!