Geekvape L200 (Legend V2)

Temp Control (Note - I no longer use nor recommend TC for any Dimitri Vaping)

Many report satisfaction with power mode for dimitri  'sub ohm' d-juice, and this is likely the only practical option for non-rebuildable 'sub ohm'.  And even with a perfectly set up rebuildable tank, using temp control is far from an exact science. Personally I regard 'sub ohm' TC as a fallible safeguard against dry hits, which for dimitri can be IME extremely unpleasant.  But TC is by no means essential and many will not consider the following to be a major issue.

The way I'd use TC in rebuildable 'sub ohm' is by setting the mod to around 15-20°C higher than what it considers the boiling point of the ejuice (see my RTA video for detailed explanation).  Of course, for a well-setup build deck, this temperature would be impossible to reach when the wick is normally saturated, and the mod responds by pumping its max Wattage limit into the coil. Therefore,  vaporisation rate (and therefore vapour potency) is adjusted by raising/lowering Wattage limit, which works beautifully. But unfortunately, this is where the L200 badly fails.

The L200's Temp Control Flaw 

TLDR In practice this means that temperature control on the L200 only works in an illusory way when d-juice atomiser Wattages are used.  It's basically a case of a rough actual maximum of 25-30W (randomly different each press) irrespective of how high the actual Wattage limit is set. Potential work-arounds by increasing temperatures aren't  practical as this would raise attempted regulated temperature way above the threshold for burning wicks when the tank runs dry. Fixed Wattage becomes a far more predictable option.

At first sight it's exactly like a tired set of batteries are installed and incapable of supplying the set Wattage limit to the coil, irrespective of coil conditions. However, a quick test in "Power mode" confirms that the problem is not battery-related.

For test purposes, I used pure PG in my Dead Rabbit M RTA at set TC-SS Wattage limit intervals between 20-200W at two test temperatures, 180°C  (20°C above mod-indicated boiling point of 160°C)  and also the max possible setting 315°C 

To emphasise, with a  correctly- working mod, we would expect the actual firing wattage (as read from the display during the fire cycle) to sit right at the Wattage limit throughout (as indeed the Mini/Solo/Z50/Grus100 and any other working setup performs).  

However, in practice the Wattage limit only came anywhere close to this at a setting of 20W or below for 180°C and 40W or below for 315°C. 

If 180°C was dialled in then from all Wattage setting from 30W to the max 200W, a near identical actual 25W was produced as read from the display.  For 315°C, the serious rot began at 50W setting, with about 45W actual showing, which stayed almost the same from all settings upto 200W.  

At all temperatures and Wattage settings, real in-toke Wattage readings were unaffected by toke/no toke.