Here we describe how to make D-juice to suit your vape tool using a blend of freebase Dimitri, Propylene Glycol (PG) and Vegetable Glycerine (VG). Other carrier fluids such as PEG400, terpenes, etc will not be discussed.
IMPORTANT - all pics on this page are simulated using household chemicals (motor oil, turps, candlewax and butter). Genuine djuice is not shown here or anywhere else on this site.
Mixes are often described as a ratio of Dimitri weight in grams to ejuice volume in ml, followed by a percentage of PG and VG that make up the ejuice.
For example..
a 1:1 mix of 100%PG might be 0.5g (500mg) of dimitri dissolved in 0.5 ml of pure PG
a 1:4 of 60PG/40VG could be 0.5g of dimitri dissolved in 2ml of 60/40 PG/VG solution
PG (Propylene Glycol) is more runny (less viscous) than VG at room temperature. It remains at a fairly constant viscosity across a wide range of temperatures (emerging at -18°C from the freezer with no apparent change from room temperature).
Sensitivity to PG appears to depend on the individual. Some find high PG mixes to be harsh on the throat
Dimitri is highly soluble in PG. A fully dissolved 2:1 mix (e.g. 2g of clean dimitri dissolved in 1ml pure PG) is just about possible at room temperature without crystallisation.
Even when stored in a freezer (at -18°C) a 1:1 mix of dimitri/PG will not yield crystallization
When Dimitri is dissolved in PG or PG/VG, the total volume of liquid can be approximately calculated as follows (all volumes in ml)
D-juice volume = (0.95 x weight of dimitri in grams) + volume of PG used + volume of VG used
For example, to calculate the approximate volume of a 1:1 made by dissolving 500mg of dimitri in 0.5ml of PG (no VG added)
Total d-juice volume = (0.95 x 0.5) + 0.5 + 0 = approx 0.975ml
See our JuiceBuddy Calculator & JuiceTransformer Tool
Dimitri is practically insoluble in VG (Vegetable Glycerine), although if a dimitri/VG mix is sufficiently heated and stirred the dimitri will melt and spread evenly through the VG giving the false impression that it has dissolved.
Adding VG thickens the mix if it's kept at lower temperatures, which can reduce leaks in some devices
The viscosity of VG increases considerably with reducing temperature (i.e thickens as it cools), emerging from -18°C freezer as a thick, almost solid gel
A thicker juice mix may travel slower in the wick as a result of reduced capillary action, potentially increasing the risk of juice starvation in some circumstances
Adding the correct proportion of VG will not only make soften the vapour on the throat and lungs, but (from recent comparison tests) even appears to massively benefit the carrier properties of the juice - (i.e. transporting the Dimitri to the lungs without breaking down and allowing partial condensation in the airways en-route to lungs). This doesn't seem to apply to carts, but can make it much easier to obtain a euphoric and colourful dinitri experiece when using sub ohm tanks. From experience, it will be difficult if not impossible to obtain such trips if using only PG in sub ohm tanks.
Your chosen mix will vary depending upon your vape tool plus your own individual preference. For example...
A common cart mix is a 1:1 using 500mg of dimitri dissolved in 0.5ml of 100% PG, making a total d-juice volume of ~0.95ml, which will conveniently fit into a 1ml cartridge. However significantly stronger ratios are possible. I have personally verified that ratios as high as 2:1 (for example 800mg dissolved in 0.4ml) are possible to dissolve at room temperature. A tek for max strength carts is outlined here.
These devices have a much more abundant airflow (Direct To Lung) and higher available Wattages than carts. Therefore, it's common to use a weaker dimitri mix, and perhaps some added VG (as much as 50% of the ejuice).
Rebuildable 'sub ohm' atomisers (wire RTAs) Preferences can vary widely but, I myself prefer a 1:4 (e.g. 500mg of dimitri dissolved in 2ml of 60PG/40VG)
Rebuildable 'sub ohm' atomisers (mesh RTAs) Depending upon the mesh fitted, scope exists for using weaker mixes and using a higher wattage to maintain vapour potency, I have used a full width(6.8mm) #150 mesh, d-juice 1:5 with mid 40s Watts and higher on a 6 sec toke with very smooth results. However, I no longer use nor recommend Mesh RTAs.
Non-Rebuildable 'sub ohm' atomisers The pre-manufactured disposable coils that fit these devices vary considerably in resilience to heat damage, but generally far less resilient than rebuildables. In general, a stronger mix of 1:2 to 1:3 is preferable to maximise the life of the coil by enabling lower Wattages to produce required vapour strengths.
Here's the difference between rebuildable and non-rebuildable sub-ohm atomisers
For example...
- 1:2.5, try 750mg of dimitri dissolved in 2.1ml of 70PG/30VG, making a total d-juice volume of ~2.7ml
- 1:3, try 660mg of dimitri dissolved in 2.0ml of 70PG/30VG, making a total volume of ~2.5ml
Pod systems - the power (Wattage) and airflow of pod systems varies so much. Some research & experimentation will be required for your device
This is a major issue with dimitri-based ejuce vaping methods, its severity appears directly related to the purity of the dimitri used to make the d-juice. Impurities that cause clogging seem far more abundant if higher temperature pulls are used in the extraction process, especially if less selective solvents such as naphtha are used, which results in waxy yellow or even brown produce. However, even if it appears pure and white clogging can still occur, although it's severity may not be sufficient to warrant potential filtering losses.
Symptoms of clogging include...
in cartridges - sharply decreased potency with increased vapour harshness. Carts appear to recover if allowed to rest, only to quickly re-deteriorate during or shortly after the first toke. Burned taste and burnout results if vaping is continued. If badly yellow/waxy dimitri is used to make the d-juice (without filtering), expect a 1ml cart to be useless even before it has run empty.
in "sub ohm" tanks - decreasing potency and dimitri vapour being replaced by an oily lingering smoke. Increasing harshness, burned wicks and risk of unpleasant dry hits despite tank still containing sufficient reserve.
The disadvantage of filtering is potential losses in the filter itself (see section below on minimising losses). However, if any cloudiness is visible in my solution of dimitri/PG (before adding any VG) then I will filter. If the unfiltered mix is crystal clear without any cloudiness (a yellow tint is perfectly acceptable) then I will not to filter. Since starting using dptek extraction I no longer find it necessary to filter my juice.
Two Non-Filtered Samples
The pic shows two simulated unfiltered solutions of dimitri/PG. Left is crystal clear from 790mg of fluffy white dimitri dissolved in 1.7ml PG. I would not to filter this.
Right is sumulated 700mg off-white waxy product dissoved in 0.7ml PG. Substantial cloudiness means it's a prime candidate for filtering
Fortunately, we can use a 1µm syringe filter to clean a solution of PG/dissolved dimitri (prior to the addition of VG), to practically eliminate clogging.
Note: the end of a cotton bud sliced off and pushed into the blunt tip can suffice in place of the filter (see the video at this point clicking on this takes to the part that describes how to use cotton buds). Take care not to pack too hard into the blunt tipped needle or it will be hard to push the liquid through, plus it'll be tricky to retrieve upon completion.
Despite the effectiveness of filtering, I still prefer to use as clean dimitri as possible so as reduce the rate at which filters clog and need to be replaced. The filtering process is described as an optional step in the next section.
Syringe filter fitted to a 1ml glass syringe
Before & after filtering
Buttery goo caught in the filter
As an example we'll assume we have Destiny RTA, and we want to mix 3ml of 1:4 with 60PG/40VG, which (for this RTA) gives us a full tank plus a little spare.
First, we consult Juicebuddy which tells us we need
606mg of dimitri
1.45ml (1.51g) of PG and 0.97ml (1.22g) of VG
Volumes of PG and VG are ime far more accurately measured by weight (with milligram scales) rather than syringe markings.
Funnel the dimitri into a glass vial (5ml is a convenient vial size)
Add juice to the vial. If intending to filter, don't add the VG yet - just add approx 1ml of the PG to the vial, save the remaining ~0.4ml to flush the filter/syringe at the end. However if not intending to filter, you can slowly add the entire 2ml PG/VG mix, tamping down and stirring as necessary
At room temperature, allow the dimitri dissolve. If very pure, it will dissolve in PG in typically 10-15 minutes for the lower concentration we have here). Anything that doesn't dissolve at room temperature after an hour or two with occasional stirring can be considered as impurities and best left floating. Gentle heat won't hurt, but it's unnecessary. Above all - don't use heat to force dissolve stubborn bits or a thick gel will be the likely result upon cooling.
Skip steps 4 and 5 if not filtering
Suck up some dimitri/PG mix into the syringe. Then attach the filter, slowly inject the contents into another vial. Go slowly to avoid damage to the filter membrane, and be wary of the filter popping off under pressure (ime the luer lock can't be relied on). Repeat until all the PG/dimitri solution has been filtered. If the freebase dimitri was especially impure, the filter may clog and need replacing to complete the process
Now remove the filter and inject the pure PG we saved in step 2 into the vial that just contained the unfiltered PG/dimitri and stir to capture any remaining d-juice. Then still without filter attached, suck this up into the syringe. Reattach filter and inject into the filtered juice vial. This step is useful to reduce the amount of residual dimitri lost in the vial, filter, syringe and needle.
Add the 0.97ml of VG into our dimitri/PG solution and shake vigorously to mix. Stirring is OK if necessary, but there will be a slight loss as the mix is quite thick and some will adhere to the chosen mixing tool.
Your D-juice is now ready to be transferred to your vape tool.
New tank? Get to know it with just pure PG first - arguably better to find incorrect assembly, missing seals, misaligned coils, cause of leaks etc with pure PG rather than your costly D-juice
Only filter if really necessary (see section above for guidance)
Measure out everything carefully so we can judge any losses accurately
Use the smallest possible size vials & syringes e.g 5ml vials, 1ml syringe
Use the smallest diameter filters possible mine are 13mm, but using larger (e.g. 25mm) will greatly increase losses
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Dissolve the dimitri in only about 70% of the PG, and keep the remaining amount for the end to flush the vial and syringe (as described in step 5 above). After doing this, I'm confident that any losses inside the filter are down to PG only, so am fine with making up the expected level with additional PG.
Make doubly sure that vials and syringe is fully empty at the end leave the vial at a slight angle for 15 minutes and see if a drip appears. Also remove the plunger of the syringe and allow the syringe body it to rest vertically in the vial for 15 minutes to see if any more drips emerge.
How not to do it - an enormous filter, huge syringe and a massive mixing vessel. Alarming losses are inevitable
Djuice darkens over time, and there are mixed reports over whether and how much this affects trip ambience. I've noticed that the use of darkened juice can create a lot of black residue all over and around the coil and inner chambers of tanks.
Following an experiment with sealed vials of juice placed in various locations, the following points emerged..
The darkening process appears to need both light and air exposure (oxygen?). Totally eliminating either drastically slows the darkening.
A simple way of arresting the darkening process seems to be to freezer storeage
If possible, keep in vials that are totally full without any empty airspace (as with the 1ml vials shown in the pic)
Displacing the airspace with an inert gas might not be as simple/effective as initially thought
Important - I've received several reports that juice can darken at a much faster rate when left in tanks rather than sealed vials. I will report back here when I've tested this out for myself.
IMO juice is far better stored in vials than tanks or carts. In vials leaking is not normally a concern, nor is storing upright or inverted an issue.
However for part-filled cartridges consider the following:
At any time the cart is not in use, I recommend storing them not only in the dark but also inverted (i.e. mouthpiece lowermost), which has proved 100% successful for prevent leaking from the usual location (an over-saturated wick dripping down through the air inlet holes adjacent to the 510 screw connector). Just take care that both mouthpiece seals are in place and the cap is properly screwed on.
For storage longer than a week or so, consider sealing the cart in a baggy, leaving the d-juice inside but stored inverted in the freezer.
Eight vials of 1:3 80/20 PG/VG Djuice left in various locations over 16 weeks. The smaller 1ml vials are completely filled to eliminate air, others have air gaps or filled with C02/Argon inert gas to displace/eliminate air. In due course, I'll perform a similar experiment with juice stored in tanks or carts.
For part-filled 'sub ohm' tanks multi-month storage
This will depend on your confidence in how leak-proof the tank is. For my rebuildable atomisers (Kylin Mini v2, Zeus X and Arbiter 2) I'm happy to leave them filled, provided they are stored upright in the freezer (protected by a baggy). The worst I've had has been a flooding resulting in a gurgling sound upon re-vaping.
However, with my non-rebuildable Zeus, I would probably drain as much as possible before storing in the freezer as in step 2 above for the carts.
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