Although very simple, I've encountered a few gotchas and 'must know's which will be described later.
I currently recommend a 1:2.5 or 1:3 of your choice of PG/VG blend - max suggested VG content of 60% (I'd use 70PG/30VG)
Note: I use a 1:4 with rebuildable 'sub ohm's, but rebuildable Z coils are much more prone to heat damage.The slightly stronger mix can generate required vapour strengths from lower Wattages, theoretically with less inherent risk of scorching the wick
For full details on how to make your D-juice, see section Making The d-juice
This depends upon whether you have the straight or bubble glass fitted. The original Zeus, Z and Z(2021) all appear hold exactly the same amount of juice when fitted with matching glasses. The spec'd capacities are 2ml (TPD version) and 3.5ml/5ml for the standard version depending on which glass is fitted.
Interestingly, I found no noticeable difference in capacity of 2ml TPD version when compared to the 3.5/5ml standard version when both were fitted with their supplied straight glasses (depite it being specified for EU markets as having a 2ml capacity).
Note - All quoted volumes were measured by density - 1.036g/ml for PG
If using the Geekvape Z (SE) or Z(Fli), the higher spec'd capacity (5.5ml/2ml) may mean that slightly more juice is required to achieve these levels.
2.6ml of mixed juice is a useful amount, with roughly 3ml being the absolute maximum. This volume is the total amount and includes about 0.48ml of juice which soaks into the coil (e.g. by priming) plus the remainder in the tank reservoir. If a full tank is required then 3ml will achieve this without risk of over-filling
Suggested to fill - 660mg dimitri, 1.4ml PG & 0.6ml VG
- makes of approx 2.6ml of ~1:3 with approx 70PG / 30VG solution
2.5ml will not safely bring the level to above the holes, and vaping at this level is highly inadvisable to avoid the coils running dry. 3.5ml will bring the juice level safely above the holes but to fill it convincingly needs around 4.5ml
All volumes quoted in these examples include the ~0.5ml of juice which soaks into the coils
Suggested minimum - 900mg dimitiri, 1.9ml PG & 0.8ml VG
- makes 3.5ml of ~1:3 with approx 70PG / 30VG solution
Suggested to fill - 1.1g dimitri, 2.4ml PG & 1.0ml VG
- makes of 4.5ml of 1:3 with approx 80PG / 20VG solution
For other mixes use JuiceBuddy to caluclate the ingredient weights/volumes
↑ Above: approx 2.3ml in each, inc ~0.5ml soaked into the coil.
↑Above: Both nicely filled - 2.6ml for straight glass (left), and 4.5ml with bubble glass (right).
If your tank is new to you, consider filling it with pure PG only at first. Try leaving it in different positions to check for leaks, vaping from it, etc. Better to find out about missing seals, incorrect assembly, etc with PG than your valuable dimitri-juice.
The procedure for filling is as follows shown in the video at this point
1. Prime & Insert the coil (have you made a good choice of coil? check here ) - using a suitable dropper & taking care not to spill, place the smallest drop of d-juice in each of the holes on the outer body of the coil. No need to risk drips by over-saturating, just repeat until you're happy that the wick is evenly damp with D-juice. Note: If the coil is primed with pure PG/VG (i.e. no dimitri), expect a slow increase in potency over many several tokes before full concentration vapour is delivered
Shows inner and outer seals on the Geekvape Z top cap
2. Check cap seals - remove the cap, and check both seals are in place. If these are missing or damaged then the juice will leak away into the base of the atomiser as little as 20 minutes. The phenomenon of coil leak-through is illustrated on the Z-series coils page
3. Filling - slowly fill the tank with your D-juice. Immediately replace the cap securely without delay to avoid the leak-through problem.
4. Leave Standing - allow to stand upright, 20-30 minutes should be more than sufficient for juice soak into all parts of the wick/coil
Here we'll use fixed wattage (power) mode. Temperature Control is not commonly supported on non-rebuildable atomisers, and even if coils are made from SS316L, unless the manufacturer has explicitly specified them as TC-compatible then these cannot be expected to perform a credible temperature controlled function.
The chosen settings will depend upon the level of desired toke potency, which is a combination of ..
Wattage Setting - assuming all other factors equal, higher Wattages can be expected to deliver increased vapour potency
The Type Of Coil Fitted - I've found a surprising vaping difference between different coil versions. For example, the Z0.4Ω coil appears to run much hotter for a given Wattage than the Z0.2Ω, performing more efficiently at lower Wattages (25W(ish), but far more prone to heat damage at higher Wattages (>30W(ish) )
Duration & Inhalation Rate Of The Toke - for a specific Wattage and d-juice mix, the slower and longer the toke, the more potent each toke will be
Strength of D-juice mix - for a specific Wattage and toke duration/rate, the stronger the d-juice mix the more potent each toke will be
PG/VG ratio - I suggest avoiding PG-only juice. A proportion of added VG (e.g. a 60PG/40VG or 70PG/30VG) seems to make a far better carrier of the molecule into the lung in a readily absorbable state.
When describing vaping technique for a particular device, to form a more complete picture, consider including all details listed above, not just the Wattage alone
In theory, a high Wattage setting and a slow constant toke (of say 9-10 secs) could be used to achieve a single-toke, maximum-intensity experience - and I've found this to be perfectly feasible for properly set up rebuildable atomisers.
However, rather than trying achieve a high intensity experience in one single long 8-10 second toke, I've found that using multiple shorter tokes (say 6 seconds) with a lower Wattage preferable. The lower Wattages, will reduces the chances of coil scorching and unpleasant dry tokes.
The Wattage that we can use for a 6 second toke varies depending upon the coil fitted. The following as a very rough general guide, the accuracy of which may vary considerably depending upon factors such as dimitri concentration, PG/VG ratio and Wattage accuracy of your mod.
CRUCIAL: These figures are to be treated as an NEVER EXCEED maximum in perfect conditions, NOT RECOMMENDED WATTAGES. It is strongly recommended to build up Wattages and toke duration slowly & gradually. NEVER EVER dive in from cold from these Wattages!
Burning coils can inflict the worst imaginable experiences and after effects, just don't go there!
Avoid the Z0.4Ω and Z0.25Ω coil for dimitri use
Test out a new tank with PG or PG/VG only, no d-juice at first
Make doubly sure the coil is correctly and fully inserted
After filling, ensure the cap is securely fitted without delay
Allow 20-30 mins between filling and attempting to vape
When removing the base cap, take care to keep upright. It might contain a useful amount of escaped leak-through juice.
ALWAYS test out a new tank with non-Dimitri juice before committing your valuable D-juice. Far better to find out about leaks or other potential problems with just PG/VG
Start off vaping at lower Wattages/short tokes and work up slowly, DO NOT DIVE STRAIGHT INTO A SESSION USING THE MAX WATTAGES FOR YOUR COIL (see above)
DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT under any circumstances ever treat this tank as a single-toke blastoff device, use multiple tokes to get where you need
Never exceed the suggested max wattages for your coil, these are absolute max for perfect vaping conditions with all recommendations followed to the letter
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT - Do not vape when the juice level starts to fall below the level of the juice transfer holes, and reduce the Wattage as the level falls near to the holes. Top up with pure PG, PG/VG or more-djuice
Hold the tank upright during vaping, enough so that juice can enter all transfer holes simultaneously. Failure do observe this will result in a vastly increased liability to burn the wick
In between tokes, make sure that the tank is upright or at least in a position where juice is covering both holes so that the wick can replenish for the next toke.
The d-juice in a tank will keep room temp for a month or more if stored in a dark location (albeit with some darkening ejuice colour) . If I want to store for longer then personally, I'd drain as much d-juice from the tank as possible and transfer it to a sealed vial. I'd then place both the tank (which will contain non-drainable juice in the coil and stuck to the inside surfaces of the atomiser) and the vial in baggies in the freezer.
Here's an example of how the draining may be achieved
Note: it's not recommended to attempt to re-use juice that may have been contaminated by previously burned coils
If the level of the d-juice is high enough, suck out as much as possible with a syringe and long 14ga blunt-tipped needle
With the atomiser held in an upright position (but preferably not on the mod owing to the risk of juice ingress), leave the top cap removed from the tank
If the juice is of regular viscosity (i.e doesn't contain unusually high proportion of VG) then, it'll soak right through the coil and collect in the base of the atomiser where it can be mostly retrieved with the syringe/blunt tip
Be aware that the base of the Zeus has insufficient capacity to hold a full tank (even when using the smaller straight glass), so the cap will need to be unscrewed and emptied at suitable intervals during the draining.