Zeus Setup & Useage Guide 

Although very simple, I've encountered a few gotchas and 'must know's which will be described later.


Choosing and making an ejuice Mix

I currently recommend a 1:2 or 1:3 of your choice of PG/VG blend - max VG content of 50% content (I currently use 80PG/20VG)


Note: I use a 1:4 with rebuildable 'sub ohm's, but rebuildable Z coils are more prone to heat damage The slightly stronger mix can generate required vapour strengths from lower Wattages, with less inherent risk of scorching the wick

For full details on how to make your D-juice, see section Making The d-juice


How Much Juice To Mix

This depends upon whether you have the straight or bubble glass fitted.  The original Zeus, Z and Z(2021) all appear hold exactly the same amount of juice when fitted with matching glasses.  The spec'd capacities are 2ml (TPD version) and 3.5ml/5ml for the standard version depending on which glass is fitted. 

Interestingly,  I found no noticeable difference in capacity of 2ml TPD version when compared to the 3.5/5ml standard version when both were fitted with their supplied straight glasses (depite it being specified for EU markets as having a 2ml capacity).


Note - All quoted volumes were measured by density - 1.036g/ml PG


If using the Geekvape Z (SE) or Z(Fli), the higher spec'd capacity (5.5ml/2ml) may mean that slightly more juice is required to achieve these levels.


When Fitted With Straight Glass (recommended)

2.6ml of mixed juice is a useful amount, with roughly 3ml being the absolute maximum.  This volume is the total amount and includes about 0.48ml of juice which soaks into the coil (e.g. by priming) plus the remainder in the tank reservoir. If a full tank is required then 3ml will achieve this without risk of over-filling


When Fitted With Bubble Glass

2.5ml will not safely bring the level to above the holes, and vaping at this level is highly inadvisable to avoid the coils running dry.  3.5ml will bring the juice level safely above the holes but to fill it convincingly needs around 4.5ml

All volumes quoted in these examples include the ~0.5ml of juice which soaks into the coils

Above: approx 2.3ml in each, inc ~0.5ml soaked into the coil. 

Above: Both nicely filled - 2.6ml for straight glass (left), and 4.5ml with bubble glass (right).  

Before FIlling With D-Juice

If your tank is new to you, consider filling it with pure PG only at first. Try leaving it in different positions to check for leaks, vaping from it, etc. Better to find out about missing seals, incorrect assembly, etc with PG than your valuable dimitri-juice.


Filling

The procedure for filling is as follows shown in the video at this point

1. Prime & Insert the coil (have you made a good choice of coil? check here ) - using a suitable dropper & taking care not to spill, place the smallest drop of d-juice in each of the holes on the outer body of the coil. No need to risk drips by over-saturating, just repeat until you're happy that the wick is evenly damp with D-juice. Note: If the coil is primed with pure PG/VG (i.e. no dimitri), expect a slow increase in potency over many several tokes before full concentration vapour is delivered

Shows inner and outer seals on the Geekvape Z top cap

2. Check cap seals - remove the cap, and check both seals are in place. If these are missing or damaged then the juice will leak away into the base of the atomiser as little as 20 minutes. The phenomenon of coil leak-through is illustrated on the Z-series coils page

3. Filling - slowly fill the tank with your D-juice. Immediately replace the cap securely without delay to avoid the leak-through problem.

4. Leave Standing - allow to stand upright, 20-30 minutes should be more than sufficient for juice soak into all parts of the wick/coil

Mod Settings

Here we'll use fixed wattage (power) mode. Temperature Control is not commonly supported on non-rebuildable atomisers, and even if coils are made from SS316L, unless the manufacturer has explicitly specified them as TC-compatible then these cannot be expected to perform a credible temperature controlled function.

Power Mode Settings

The chosen settings will depend upon the level of desired toke potency, which is a combination of ..

When describing vaping technique for a particular device, to form a more complete picture, consider including all details listed above, not just the Wattage alone

Practical Wattage Setting

In theory, a high Wattage setting and a slow constant toke (of say 9-10 secs) could be used to achieve a single-toke, maximum-intensity experience - and I've found this to be perfectly feasible for properly set up rebuildable atomisers.


However, rather than trying achieve a high intensity experience in one single long 8-10 second toke, I've found that using multiple shorter tokes (say 6 seconds) with a lower Wattage preferable. The lower Wattages, will reduces the chances of coil scorching and unpleasant dry tokes.


The Wattage that we can use for a 6 second toke varies depending upon the coil fitted. The following as a very rough general guide, the accuracy of which may vary considerably depending upon factors such as dimitri concentration, PG/VG ratio and Wattage accuracy of your mod.


Note: These figures are to be treated as an absolute maximum in perfect conditions, and it is strongly recommended to build up Wattages and toke duration slowly & gradually to these

Summary Of Gotchas To Avoid

Setup Gotchas

Vaping Gotchas

Storing A Part-Filled Tank For Later Use

The d-juice in a tank will keep room temp for a month or more if stored in a dark location (albeit with some darkening ejuice colour) . If I want to store for longer then personally, I'd drain as much d-juice from the tank as possible and transfer it to a sealed vial.  I'd then place both the tank (which will contain non-drainable juice in the coil and stuck to the inside surfaces of the atomiser) and the vial in baggies in the freezer.

Here's an example of how the draining may be achieved

Note: it's not recommended to attempt to re-use juice that may have been contaminated by previously burned coils