Wotofo Profile PS

"Needs configuring for 'Serial' mode, narrow mesh clamps aren't ideal, & not the cheapest option. But overall a useable, high quality alternative to the Mesh Pro knockoff"

Intro

Wotofo's Profile PS (Parallel Series) is a dual mesh RDA, with a user-configurable option of setting up meshes as wired in either parallel or series.

The configurable P/S option is imo a clever design - but poorly implemented, judging by the common reports of problems in parallel mode (in which the PS is shipped). The issues are either only one mesh lighting, or uneven lighting of both (which also affected the one shown in this review). However, thankfully this doesn't affect series mode, which we'll be using for Dimitri emesh.

The main benefit in Series mode is enabling a piece of mesh (approx 35 x 7mm) to be connected between the two outer terminals (leaving the centre terminal disconnected) which makes it a useable emesh platform as described below.

Pic from Wotofo's glitzy press pack, showing the PS design to accommodate two mesh strips. But we don't use it like this for Dimitri emesh

Overall Verdict

My PS cost roughly x3 the price of a Mesh Pro knockoff as delivered, and I imagine some people being happy to pay the extra, simply to avoid common quality control problems.

The narrow mesh clamps aren't ideal and for this reason, if I could guarantee 100% certainty of obtaining an equally high quality Mesh Pro RDA, then the choice might lean more towards this. Another non-clone quality Mesh RDA option to consider is the Cthulhu Iris

Your decision may boil down to availability, but as always shout on the Discord if you're having trouble sourcing a mesh RDA.

Airflow options galore, but we'll use only 3 open holes either side (see pic below)

Pros/Cons

🙂 General feel of quality

🙂 Far better chance of successful out-of-the-box operation than Mesh Pro clone RDAs

🙂 Relatively simple mesh installation

☹️ Narrow mesh clamps (~7mm max grip width). A real pity imo.

☹️ Can be expensive compared to the Mesh Pro clones

☹️ Large 28.5mm outside diameter means the PS looks top-heavy on smaller mods like the Z50 or Rigel Mini

☹️🙂 No clones yet seen, but may be available as a "clearance line" in your local vape shop. IMO worth checking.

Included with the PS. Not shown are two (unsuitable for emesh) included perforated meshes, plus 2 pieces of cotton, also the manual & other paperwork.

Setting Up For Dimitri Emesh

Optionally (to simplify later cleaning), the sprung PEEK pads can be removed & placed into a small baggy for safe-keeping The supplied crosshead driver is ideal for unscrewing. Take care not to lose the screws.
The PS is shipped in Parallel mode, so needs to be changed to Series. Using the supplied Allen key, unscrew & remove the 510 centre pin, also removing the metal collar (shown in the blue circle on the pic below) with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
Now insert and screw in the single short series 510 pin. There are two versions supplied of each pin - either can be used but I suggest the non-squonk pin (i.e. without the hole running through the centre) for extra torsional strength. The PS should now be in series mode.
Cut a piece of mesh number #150 (100 micron) or #200 (75 micron) plain woven stainless steel mesh and secure in the two outer clamps as shown in the pic below. Mesh length will be ~35mm, but there is a small leeway on the width, depending on how easily you can tolerate a narrower mesh. For mesh width options, see section below.
Perform short red-heat burn at ~30W then recheck the firmness of the terminal screws. Important: the meshes supplied with the Profile PS are unsuitable for emesh. They're perforated flat steel rather than woven wire, too short (only 6.8 x 16mm), and far too coarse - dimitri will easily fall right through, esp when molten.
You should then be ready to load with spice, melt it into the mesh, and then it's ready for preliminary live testing as decribed next.

Profile PS build deck as shipped. Suggest removing and storing the sprung white PEEK pads as they serve no purpose for emesh, and will complicate the inevitable cleaning.

Either/or options for series (red circle) and parallel mesh wiring (blue circle). When in series mode, the centre post is electrically isolated, making its use optional for emesh.

Pads removed, and mesh strip (~7.2 x 35mm) connected between outer terminals, with a couple of mm clearance over the centre one. This SS316L mesh was showing about 0.30Ω , SS304 a tad lower.

Forms a fairly narrow platform for our Dimtri crystal, approx 7.5 x 17mm (127.5mm²) compared to 9.0 x 17mm (153mm²) for Mesh Pro. Wider meshes can be used (see below).

Mesh Width Options For Dimitri Emesh

As mentioned, 35mm mesh length is suggested. As regards width, the PS clamps will accommodate a max of only ~7mm, which some may find narrower than ideal. Meshes can be cut a little wider, with a taper at the both ends to still allow the clamps to fit. However this introduces two unwelcome consequences as follows..

Heat distribution is adversely affected, with narrower parts of the mesh prone to becoming hotter
More power will be needed to offset the uneven distribution, and also the increased mesh surface area

In the pic below, we see that the 7mm straight cut mesh provides best temperature spread and brightest glowing mesh (far brighter than the pic appears). On the 10mm tapered, the irregular heat distibution is very noticeable, as is the lack of overall brightness.

If you can live with the 7mm wide straight-cut mesh then it might be best to stick with this. The 8mm tapered also appears acceptable (most of my Dimitri testing has been performed with the 8mm tapered), but if choosing any wider then be aware of rapidly deteriorating heat distribution and Wattage correction that may be needed

Mesh length suggested at 35mm, but width can range from an even 7mm to a tapered-out 9 or 10mm depending on the unevenness of heat distribution you can tolerate.

First Time Dimitri Emesh Use

I suggest reviewing the noob's guide to understand the principles. Here is a summary particular to the Wotofo PS ...

Load with 10mg (as accurately as can be measured), we'll get the hang of the technique at low doses
Set mod to 17W power mode (some mods are not accurate with SS wires so will need a little more - e.g. the Thelema Solo cold coil issue)
Melt the crystal into the mesh with a 0.5 sec click or two of the fire button
Replace cap and set airflow so that 3 holes each side are exposed (see pic)
Start a slow gentle toke, pressing and holding the fire button as soon as you have the aiflow started (not before or the Dimitri can be burned and create very harsh vapour)
The toke is gentle & ~6-7 secs in duration with maybe a little heat felt in the lungs. If the toke is too hard then it'll be too cool, feel harsh in the mouth/throat, and will likely have little effect. Toking too slow is also possible, but the main thing is don't have the fire button pressed unless toking.
Hold the vapour for as long as you comfortably can. At the start of the hold in, place down the mod and lie back
If the effect was too weak or non-existent, ask yourself was the vapour warm enough. If you suspect it was too cool, then try more watts/slower and /or slightly toke rate next time. Increase the dose only when you're sure you're working at optimum temperature. I have to think very hard before using anywhere near 20mg when vapour is at optimal temperature/concentration as the effects can easily cause instant L4/L5.
A higher dose will need a higher wattage, the above is an example for 10mg. For efficient vaporisation, I suggest always use a slower toke rate and ample wattage to feel some gentle heat in the lungs
IME, burning the Dimitri is unlikely as long as there is a reasonable airflow over the mesh at all times when the fire button is pressed.

The airflow setting I've been using to help peg the optimum toke rate. A nice long gentle draw with this seems to do the trick very nicely

Two Kanthal A1 0.3Ω, 6.8 x 16mm meshes are supplied with the PS. Unfortunately they're too coarse, perforated rather than woven, and too short for Dimitri emesh.

At 28.5mm diameter, the PS looks a little top-heavy on smaller mods

Two versions of Series and Parallel pins are supplied, here showing the Series pins. On the right is the squonk pin, which has a hole in the middle. If you're unfamilar with 'squonking', see this page, scroll down to "What's a squonk mod?"

For interest, here are the Wotofo options for the PS (all unsuitable for dimitri emesh)

Wotofo Meshes 6.8 x 16mm

Wotofo Mesh (NEW) A1 ~0.30Ω x2 included with the PS
Classic Wotofo Mesh A1 ~0.18Ω
nexMESH A1 A1 ~0.13Ω
nexMESH SS316L SS ~0.15Ω
nexMESH Clapton S A1+Ni80 ~0.15Ω

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