"The 22mm Mini is IMO a good choice for Dimitri MTL experimenters, but go for a genuine model if possible.
I suggest avoiding the 24mm version, as it has several potential design annoyances"
Available as 22mm "Mini" and 24mm versions, both share a common build deck but otherwise differ significantly. For me, the 24mm has several significant disadvantages so I instead suggest choosing the 22mm Mini version which I've found to be an impressively versatile MTL tank with a few minor snag - plus the usual MTL pros and cons.
The V2 Mini clone I have is perfectly useable as a MTL, however if possible I suggest sourcing a genuine model as the airflow inserts on mine are (annoyingly) unmarked and not an ideal fit in the deck recess. Also on both clones, the top cap doesn't screw on as tightly as I'd prefer. It's kinda OK, but I'd hope this wouldn't affect genuine models.
As mentioned, both appear identical, albeit the 24mm version has a slightly larger outer base shell. Terminal gap is a useful 4.5mm, so fits 4 turns of 26x2+36 clapton that works well for me on the Arbiter Solo (same gap).
I also appreciate the Destiny-style terminal posts which simplifies coil installation in that excess coil legs lengths are simply snipped off post-installation, without need for pre-measurement.
Both versions are supplied with different pack of airflow restrictor inserts of various diameters. These slot into a grooved recess beneath the coil to provide a multitude of airflow options. A neat idea, and work well but also brings us to the first gripe.
Left: the 24mm V2 deck, right: the 22mm V2 Mini. Both internally identical. Note: the air inserts will not push fully in on either clone. It doesn't seem to result in air leakage through the gap - but it does shift the airflow hole slightly off-centre from the juice well holes. Sure, we can move the coil slightly off-centre to compensate, but that further limits available coil headroom and means that the coil sits off-centre from the air outlet tube to the mouthpiece! Argggh! - buy a genuine one instead!
Top: Inserts for the Mini V2 are supposedly 2.0, 1.6, 1.5, 1.4, 1.2, 1.0, 0.8 and 2x1.0mm (but unmarked!), peek with metal tubes or "hybrid air-tubes" as Sourcemore's review has named them
Bottom: The 24mm version are supposedly all-peek 2.0, 1.6, 1.4, 1.0, 0.8 and 2x1.0mm although the 2x1.0 seemed closer to 2x0.8mm when measured. A fiddly implemetation but seems to do the job.
Issues on the 24mm version that aren't affected as badly or at all on the 22mm Mini (so far, I haven't been able to detect any advantages of the 24mm version over the 22mm Mini).
☹️ Melt-prone inserts - Claimed all peek moulding as previously mentioned
☹️ Easy overflowing on filling - Juice level above ~2ml is concealed behind the extended top cap assembly. Also results in difficulty in leak detection and evaluating juice consumption when level is above this.
☹️ Awkward cleaning - Extended inner top cap/inner chinmey is a single assembly which has a very narrow gap between the outer and inner chambers (see pic)
☹️ Inadventent cap detachment - Extended top cap/short glass results in difficulty avoiding unscrewing the cap when removing the tank from the mod, trying to unscrew the base when already removed, even simply attempting the near impossible task of adjusting the airflow ring (see below)
☹️ Difficult evaluation of remaining juice - Even when the level is visible, the 24mm's wider juice reservoir means the juice level falls at much less than half the rate for the same juice useage on the Mini 22mm version,
☹️ Extremely stiff airflow (AFC) ring - Also seems to be reported on reviews of genuine models (for example this one), but my 22mm Mini is much better. The issue on my 24mm was slightly improved by removing one of the two O-rings beneath it, but still way too tight to adjust without removal from the mod.
Inner chimney assembly of 24mm version (left) and 22 Mini version (right). Red arrow points to an area which is very awkward to clean properly
🙂 IMO, a far superior option than the 24mm version for Dimitri juice
🙂 Simple conventional bottom airflow design, an easy-to-live-with MTL/RDL device, which I can envisage using regularly
🙂 For my tastes, it has an ideal juice capacity for a MTL tank (see pics)
🙂 The inserts aside, a nicely designed build deck with simple coil installation/wicking. Can accommodate a fairly wide range of coil sizes, uses larger M3.0mm terminal grub screws.
🙂☹️ Air inserts work brilliantly for fine tuning airflow, but are fiddly, easily misplaced, difficult "on the fly" replacement & likely not entirely heat resistant
☹️ Top cap doesn't screw on very tightly. Affects both my 22mm and 24mm clones. Basically, the bayonet cap fitting relies on the compression of a rubber gasket to hold it firm when screwed on. However, the gasket seems slightly too thin, raising concerns of inadvertent loosening/leaking. Regular checking of the cap tightness is therefore recommended.
☹️ Limited internal vertical space, much care is needed to avoid positioning coils too high when installing (especially >2.5mm i/d) to avoid contact with surface above when assembled. On my first attempt, mod resistance readout was varying wildly and throwing constant "new atomiser" messages. Slight lowering of the coil height solved this instantly.
☹️ On my clone example ...
the air inserts don't push fully home and this moves them slightly off centre to the juice well openings. No apparent air bypassing so likely more annoyance than a serious issue. Pics of the genuine, non-clone models are shown with inserts pushed fully and neatly home.
None of the inserts are marked, so it's almost impossible to differentiate between those which are closest together in size. Really annoying 😡
Slightly loose fit of my extended curved 510 driptips, expected but slightly disappointing. The usual ptfe tape patchup has been used.
Coil Too High. This i/d 3.0mm, 26x2+36 coil proved to be slightly too high, causing outer-contact & resistance fluctuations, triggering continuous "New Atomiser" messages. To be fair, this tank isn't really designed for DTL gauges of 3.0mm, so probably best using 2.5mm i/d and being aware of the max available internal headroom.
Also, unlike shown here - remove the airflow insert for performing the red-heat "dry burn"
Coil Height OK. Coil from the previous pic was lowered a tiny bit, and this proved to be just about OK. I'll know for next time! If using this Ni80 26x2+36 4xturns coil, I suggest the 2.0mm diameter insert and a 1:2.5 60PG/40VG mix,. On my Original Solo it seems to be happy on 16W. As with most small coils, multiple long(ish) tokes may be needed.
24mm Berserker V2
22mm Berserker V2 Mini
The V2 Mini 22mm might be a pretty tank, but the 510 driptip still needed a wrap or two of PTFE tape to elimate the wobblyness!
Closeups of some of the nasty little V2 24mm inserts. Left is the 2x1.0mm, which seems less than 1.0mm (probably nearer 2x0.8), esp when comparing to the insert marked as 1.0mm (centre). On the right is the insert marked as 2.0mm, which appears roughly correct. Supposedly peek, but who knows!