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Basic Use
Basic Use
3D printing, which is a form of additive manufacturing, is a fantastic tool for designing and producing anything your imagination can create. At its core, 3D printing works much like regular printing.
With traditional printing, you...
Find or make a document you want to print.
Click "Print" and a program pops up that you tell how many copies and any other settings, such as color or quality, you want.
Click "Print" from that program. The printer puts ink on the paper 1 row at a time until the document is done.
You need 3 things - the file, the software that talks to the printer, and the supplies the printer uses. It is paper and ink for traditional printers and thermoplastic, like PLA or ABS, for 3D printers).
Start with a Model
Start with a Model
Pre-Made Models
Pre-Made Models
The simplest path is to search websites that contain libraries of pre-made models of objects, then print those.
Create Your Own Model
Create Your Own Model
The most involved path is to create your own design with modeling software, and then print that.
Hybrid Models
Hybrid Models
You can also have a hybrid path where you find a part of the design you want and then add your own parts to it before printing it.
Pre-made Models
Pre-made Models
There are many different sources of pre-made 3D models online. Some are paid, copyrighted files, while others are freely shared through Creative Commons licensing. See the clip at the right for more information Creative Commons Licensing.
Pre-made models are a great tool for learning to use a 3D printer. They are abundantly available through sites, such as Thingiverse or Printables. They allow new users of 3D printers the ability to quickly get started and focus on perfecting their use of the 3D printer's software settings. Some sites will even share printer settings that the model's creator used to get good quality prints.
More about Creative Commons Licensing
Creating Your Own Models
Creating Your Own Models
Creating your own models requires modeling software. Some programs need to be downloaded and installed. Others are web-based. Two examples of great online model creation tools are SketchUp for Schools, available in the Google waffle, and Tinkercad, https://www.tinkercad.com/dashboard. Both have online tutorials built-in.
Tinkercad tutorial - https://www.tinkercad.com/dashboard?type=all&collection=lessons
SketchUp for Schools tutorial - Login to SketchUp for Schools and click "Curriculum"; More about SketchUp for Schools on our Google Site
Each tool has its own advantages and disadvantages. SketchUp for Schools allows users to save their work to directly to Google Drive. Tinkercad has the ability for teachers to create classes to allow for simple project management. To learn how to setup a classroom in Tinkercad, follow this link. SketchUp for Schools allows for complex model creation, but it may be more challenging to create a model that will accurately print. Tinkercad is very user-friendly, but may be more challenging to create complex models.
Hybrid Models
Hybrid Models
With hybrid models, you either start with someone else's model and import it to modeling software to add your own parts and modifications or you begin your making your own design and add pre-made aspects from libraries shared within the modeling tool.
Import an Outside Object
Import an Outside Object
Adding from a Library
Adding from a Library
Printing
Printing
Not only are there programs for creating and viewing 3D models, but each printer requires it own software, commonly referred to as Slicer programs. This slicer software takes the 3D model and slices it into hundreds of layers to be printed on top of each other.
Makerbot printers use either Makerbot Print or Makerbot Desktop, depending on the device.
The Dremel DigiLab 3D45 uses the Dremel DigiLab 3D Slicer.
Other manufacturers use Ultimaker's Cura Slicer or a branded version of it.
Slicer programs allow the models to be resized and placed on the build plate with other models to be printed together.
Calibration
Calibration
For the best quality of prints, it is important to calibrate your printer via bed-leveling after every few prints. As you remove printed objects from the build plate the distance between it and the nozzle may shift slightly. The printer build plate, also known as the print bed, needs to be as close to the same distance from the nozzle at every spot possible. This helps the most important layer, the first layer, stick to the bed evenly so it model stays in place and stays level.
Some printers have a heated bed to assist the first layer sticking successfully. Some materials will only work with a heated bed at specific temperatures. For CMCSS, most printers are Makerbot brand and don't have a heated bed. This means they will need to be calibrated correctly and can only use PLA filament to print. PLA has a lower melting point, so a heated bed is not necessary. PLA, or Polylactic Acid, is a bioplastic made primarily from corn starch. It is one of the easiest materials to use and one of the most widely available.
Makerbot Replicator (5th Gen)
Makerbot Replicator (5th Gen)
To level the build plate, choose Settings > Calibration > Level Build Plate on the control panel of the MakerBot Replicator.
The assisted leveling routine works best with a clean, flat build plate. Wrinkles in your blue tape or plastic debris on the build plate or nozzle can interfere with the sensor in the Smart Extruder. Make sure your build plate tape is smooth before you start the leveling process, and wipe the build plate down with a clean cloth if necessary.
The control panel screen will guide you through the assisted leveling routine. At each stage, you will be directed to turn one of the leveling knobs on the underside of the build platform.
Makerbot Replicator +
Makerbot Replicator +
Navigate to Settings > Calibration > Level Build Plate > Start Assisted Leveling on the Control Panel to begin leveling the build plate. If filament is loaded, you will be prompted to unload filament.
Before attempting to level your build plate, allow the extruder to cool and clear any debris from the extruder nozzle and build plate.
When directed with the control panel, using the 4 mm hex key included in the setup kit, first tighten the front left and right screws 2-3 full turns. Select Continue with the dial.
Next, turn the leveling screws slowly until a light appears on the extruder. Press the control panel dial to move to the next step of the leveling process. The extruder will move to different points around the build plate to make sure the plate is at the appropriate distance from the extruder nozzle. Turn the leveling screws according to the instructions that appear on the control panel screen. Instructions on the MakerBot Replicator+ control panel will also guide you through this process.
Dremel 3D45
Dremel 3D45
1. Tap “Level” on 3D45’s touch screen.
2. The extruder and build platform will move into position to level the build platform. 3D45 will first check level at the back center of the build platform. The two knobs under the build platform are used to raise and lower the build platform on the left and right. The extruder contains a sensor that detects if the bed is level, no additional tools are necessary.
3. The touch screen will indicate if your build platform is too high or too low. If the build platform is too high, adjust the appropriate knob by rotating right until you hear a “beep” and the touch screen indicates that it is ready to verify that the bed is level.
4. If the build platform is too low, adjust the knob by rotating left until you hear a “beep” and the touch screen indicates that it is ready to verify that the bed is level.
5. Tap “Verify” to check he bed level. If further adjustment is needed the touch screen will indicate the direction, if the level is correct, the extruder will move to the next point and the level process can be repeated.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for the second position, when you bed is fully level the extruder will automatically move to the calibration position and complete the leveling process.
Adding a Model to the Slicer
Adding a Model to the Slicer
Makerbot Desktop App
Click FILE.
Click ADD.
Open the model file. Files can be .obj, .stl, or .thing.
Click OPEN.
Makerbot Print
Click FILE.
Click INSERT FILE.
Open the model file. Files can be .stl, obj. or from one of several 3D modeling programs like Solidworks and more.
Click OPEN.
Cura Slicer
Click FILE.
Click OPEN FILE(S)...
Open the file(s). Files can be .stl, .obj, .step, and many more.
Click OPEN.
Test Print
Test Print
Now that the bed is levelled, it is time to print a test object. This is especially important if changes have been made since the last time it was used. Changes could include changing the Smart Extruder on a Makerbot or switching to a new spool of filament. Different filament rolls may need slightly different settings, including temperature and printing speed, to get the best print quality. Test prints let you see this easily.
Most printers have test models already loaded in their memory ready to select and print. Additional models can be downloaded and printed. Below are 2 popular test print models.
Scroll down. Click "Thing Files" button. Click "Download".
Scroll down. Click "Thing Files" button. Click "Download" by "3DBenchy.stl".
Adjusting the Model's Position, Size, and Orientation
Adjusting the Model's Position, Size, and Orientation
Once the model is on the slicer's build plate, you can adjust many aspects of it as needed. The main three are the position on the plate, the size of the model, and the orientation.
Position
Position
Use Position to move models around the build plate to print more than one model at a time.
Orientation
Orientation
Use Orientation to turn or flip the model on the build plate so the widest, flattest side is facing down or to create more strength in the print.
Scale
Scale
Use Scaling to make a resize models to fit them on the print bed better or to create the size you desire.
Standard or Custom Settings
Standard or Custom Settings
Slicer software has 2 groups of settings - Standard and Custom. Standard settings are the quickest to use, but might not create the best print quality for every model. Custom settings give the user ultimate control over every aspect of printing, but are by their nature more complicated to learn.
Standard Settings
Typically, there are Balanced, Draft, and Minfill settings groups. Each is preset to give various quality levels and print times. Generally, the higher the quality; the more materials and time that are needed.
Balanced: Standard Mode - a balance of high surface quality and quick print time.
Draft: Quicker "sketch" mode - favors speed over surface quality. Great for multiple iterations.
MinFill: Fastest mode - uses the absolute minimum amount of internal structure. Ideal for large prints that don't need to be durable.
In addition to print quality settings, there are options for other printer features.
Other Aspects of Standard Settings
Other Aspects of Standard Settings
Raft - This prints a base that is easily broken off and discarded. It is larger than the model itself. It's job is to create a flat base to let the model adhere to the print bed more easily. Unheated printer beds often require rafts to stay in place during printing.
Support - This builds vertical support by printing break-away parts to support parts of the model that print with nothing below them.
Infill - This controls how much plastic is used on the inside of the model. Most printer slicer programs are set to have between 10% and 20 % infill. This keeps the model lightweight and relatively strong. If stronger parts are needed, raising the infill can help.
Shells - This determines how many layers are printed to create the outside that is seen and touched. Much like creating a piñata, the more layer or shells used; the stronger the object becomes on its own. Print enough shells and completely hollow, but ridged models can be made.
Custom Settings
Digging into the Custom Settings menu gives the user more control, but a lot of decisions to make. The answers to which to use depend on the model being printed, the quality of the filament being used, and even the temperature and humidity of the room the print is in.
Base Layer - Select 1st layer type, such as 'raft', 'padded base", or 'none'.
Layer Height - Controls the heights of each layer. Larger = faster print, but less detail. Smaller=slower print, but more detail.
Infill Density - Controls how completely the inside of the model is filled; Can range from 0% -100%.
Number of Shells - Controls how many rows of filament make up the outer layer. More=durable, but slow print; Less=fast, but delicate print.
Travel Speed - Controls the speed the print head moves between areas when it is not printing filament
Extruder Temperature - The temperature of the hot end that places the melted plastic on the bed; Higher temperature allows for more plastic to come through, but may cause stringing.
Filament Diameter - Filament comes in specific diameters when purchasing it. Match this number to what is in your machine.
Retraction Distance - Controls how much the filament is pulled back into the extruder when not printing; If there is stringing between parts of a model, slightly increase this number to reduce stringing.
Roof Thickness - Controls the thickness of the top of the model being printed. Thicker roofs can be stronger.
Fixed Shell Start - If this is on, the seam where each new layer starts will be in the same place and be visible. Uncheck to have new layers start in random places and hide the seam.
Print Speed: Outlines - Controls how fast the hot end moves while printing the outermost layers
Shell Starting Direction - If the layers are set to start in the same place each time, this places the seam using a 360 degree value - 0 is behind the model, 90 is the right face, 180 is the front, and 270 is the left face as it sits on the printer bed.
Print Speed: Solid - Controls the speed of printing the inside when printing solid.
Print Speed: Sparse - Controls the speed of printing the inside with printing sparsely.
Infill Layer Height - Controls the height of layers printed inside the model
Infill Pattern - Select the pattern of inside layers, including Linear, Hexagonal, Moraccan Star Fill, Cat Fill, Shark Fill, Donut Fill, Hillbert Fill, Sunglasses Fill, Diamond Fill, Diamond Fill (Fast), and Linear (Interleaved).
Floor Thickness - Adjusts the thickness of the layers of the model that touch either the build plate or the raft.
Support - Turns On or Off the use of supports; Supports are generated by the program. (It provides break away supports that must be removed later.)
Support Under Bridges - Once Supports are enabled, turns On or Off supports under areas where the ends, but not the middle of a model are supported. (It provides break away supports that must be removed later.)
Support Angles - Adjusts the angle of a surface that needs vertical supports to print correctly - (O° prints every surface; 90° prints none)
Support Density - Adjusts the percentage of the area with printed supports; Higher % will be more difficult to remove
Support to Model Spacing - Adjusts the amount of space between the top of the support and the bottom of the model being supported
Print Speed: First Model Layer - Adjusts the speed (in mm/second) of the extruder as it moves to build the first layer of the model
Filament Cooling Fan Speed: Raft Base - Adjusts the fan speed (0% to 100%) as it cools the filament making the raft, not the model
Print Speed: Raft Base - Adjusts the speed (in mm/second) of the extruder as it moves to build the raft
Number of External Brims - Adjust the number rings drawn around the outside of a model or raft on the bed
Number of Internal Brims - Adjust the number rings drawn around the inside of a model or raft on the bed
Raft Margin - Controls the distance between the outer edge of raft and your model
Raft to Model Shell Vertical Offset - Adjust the margin between the raft and model shells during printing
Raft to Model Vertical Offset - Adjusts the margin between the raft and model during printing
Troubleshooting Print Errors
Troubleshooting Print Errors
This guide is a great place to start if you are trying to improve the quality of your 3D printed parts. We have compiled an extensive list of the most common 3D printing issues along with the software settings that you can use to solve them.
Maintenance
Maintenance
Printer Bed Maintenance
Printer Bed Maintenance
Makerbot and many other printer manufacturers created machines that don't have heated beds. Unheated printer build plates require special surfaces to help the filament attach successfully and reliably. There are glues and tapes that can be used to give these build plates the needed texture.
While whole build plate sized sheets of blue painters tape are available, regular wide painters tape can be used. It is also possible to use gaffers tape, like is used at concerts and media events.
Filament Storage
Filament Storage
Filament should be stored in dry, cool conditions to prolong its use. When not stored properly, most filament types will take on moisture from the air and swell. This can cause clogs and poor prints. The filament becomes brittle and less reliable.
Better storage methods can help keep filament dry and in good condition. Some techniques involve storing it in resealable vacuum bags or plastic storage totes with desiccant materials. Additionally, a filament dryer or even a food dehydrator can revitalize filament so it becomes ready for use.
Repair
Repair
Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen Belt Clip - Modified
Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen Belt Clip - Modified
This is a replacement part for an older printer that neither the part nor the printer are currently made. A creator made one version and shared the design. When I used it, it initially worked, but ultimately broke because the end pieces printed too thin. I pulled them into Tinkercad and reinforced the end parts. So far, they have held.
Clearing a Jammed/Partially Jammed Nozzle
Clearing a Jammed/Partially Jammed Nozzle
For Makerbot printers, the smart extruder is a blessing and a curse. It is easy to replace, but is also very expensive to do so. For Smart Extruder +'s that been used for a long time and have become jammed, the warranty may be over and opening the unit may be worth doing to clear the jam.
Common Error Messages
Common Error Messages
Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen Error Codes
Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen Error Codes
Makerbot Replicator+ Error Codes
Makerbot Replicator+ Error Codes
Makerbot Mini Error Codes
Makerbot Mini Error Codes
Other Resources
Other Resources
Learning Metric
Learning Metric
Students who are designing their own models are more accustomed to measuring in inches and feet. However, the metric system is at the heart of 3D printing. It specifically focuses on measuring in millimeters. To overcome any lack of experience with millimeters, metric rulers focused on millimeters are a must. Luckily, you don't have to purchase them. You can print them on paper and tape them to your class's desks/tables for quick reference. Here is a link with several versions available - https://free-printable-paper.com/millimeter-ruler/ .
Knowing Your Filament Supply
Knowing Your Filament Supply
Knowing how much filament is left on a partial spool is handy information to have. No one wants to waste PLA filament. Also, no one wants to run out in the middle of a print. Luckily, all you need to use is a digital scale that works in the metric system. You will also need a empty spool for each size you typically use.
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