In the SVCTE Mechatronics Engineering class we have a Prusa I3 MK3 printer. It's a good printer... So take care of it.
Student Editable Doc, where you can add tips and tricks <---Add Your Tips Here!!!
1) STL file - You will need to start with an STL file. This is something you will have exported out of TinkerCAD or Fusions360 or some other CAD tool. This STL file is what you will feed into a Slicer to generate a gcode file. The open source Slicer we are using for the Prisa is Cura.
Design Your Own 3D Model in TinkerCAD
Download A 3D Printer File: Check out http://www.thingiverse.com. There's this wonderful open-source website called thingiverse, where users can upload and download STL files of different sorts of things that they want to create. There is a few steps with this:
Step One: Download zip file seen as “Download All”.
Step Two: Locate download location and unzip the file to another folder. You can always create one of the Desktop such as “STL Files”.
Step Three: Open the main folder and double-click on the blue STL file to open it.
2) Slicer (Ultimaker Cura) - For pronters like the Prusa, you can use open source slicers like Ultimaker Cura. To open the files and set it up for a 3D printer, you’ll need a “Slicer program”. A Slicer program is designed to tell the 3D printer everything it needs to know in order to print the file in the best way possible. For this, I recommend the program “Ultimaker Cura”, which can be downloaded at: https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
Install Steps:
Click on “Download for Free”
When the window pops up for which one to install, click on “Windows 64 bit”
After downloading, open the designated folder and double click on the installation app to begin. Follow the instructions on how to install. You may have to have your teacher add their administrator password a couple of times to allow the installation to continue.
3) Set the Prusa Printer Settings - You will need to set a few parameters before you generate/export your gcode file. After installing the program double-click on Cura either from the Desktop or windows menu under “Ultimaker Cura”. Once you open the program, a window should pop up with it asking you to specify which printer to set it up for and there will be a list of different printers. Select the printer that you’re using.
Select the Prusa I3 MK3 (original) printer - <how do I do this?>
Select the Printer Filament Type - Typically this will be PLA. Mostly we have PLA and ABS available for students to select. If you are using a different filament, this is where you select it. <how do I do this?>
Select the Filament and Bed Temperatures - Typically this will be PLA. See some Temperature parameters below:
PLA - While most PLA settings recommend ( ), the PLA filament we use in class works best with the following settings:
Nozzle Filament Temperature - # - <how do I do this?>
Bed Temperature - # - <how do I do this?>
ABS - While most ABS settings recommend ( ), the ABS filament we use in class works best with the following settings:
Nozzle Filament Temperature - # - <how do I do this?>
Bed Temperature - # - <how do I do this?>
Select the Printer Infill - This will depend on what the item is going to be used for or the stresses that will be placed on it. the default should be 20% or less for any prototype prints. <how do I do this?> When you are printing the final versions, here are a few guidelines:
Prototype - 20% or less Infill - This is when you are just checking the "Fit & Function" of a print, and you don't need it to be the final infil or strength. <how do I do this?>
Object Just Sitting On A Shelf? - 10% - 20% or less Infill - Unless you are making a "Paper Weight", please print these types of objects with the least amount of Infill as possible. 10% would be fine. <how do I do this?>
Object In Your Pocket? - 60% - 80% Infill - If your object is going to be flexed and get "sat on", then you will want it to be a bit stronger. 60%-80% would be fine. <how do I do this?>
I Need A Super Strong Bracket Or Fixture - 80% or more Infill - If your object needs to be super strong, then 80% or more might be needed. Always ask if you are printing with more than 60% infill. <how do I do this?>
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Tip or Trick - <list information here>
Prusa - Robot Club - Students Maintained and Updated Prusa Printer Notes, Tips, & Tricks Tutorial - ✨ Resources / 🖼️ Tutorial
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Calibration: The process of adjusting the printer to ensure proper operation.
Firmware: Software installed on the printer’s hardware that controls its operations.
Key Concepts:
This section provides a step-by-step guide on setting up the printer, including unpacking, assembling, and calibrating. Calibration is critical for ensuring accurate prints, and students will learn how to check the firmware version and adjust settings in the printer’s software.
Challenges:
Students might struggle with calibrating the print bed, as even small misalignments can cause print failures. Providing diagrams and video tutorials will help.
Tips and Tricks:
Always start with a small test print after setup to ensure the calibration is accurate before moving on to larger prints.
FAQ #1 - xxxx
<add leveling and Calibration steps and setup...>
Prusa is a proprietary printer, but there are lots of open add-ons you can install...
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Additive Manufacturing: The process of creating objects layer by layer.
Extruder: The component that pushes filament through the hot end to print layers.
Key Concepts:
3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, is a process of making three-dimensional objects by layering materials like plastic. This section introduces the history of 3D printing, its various applications in fields such as engineering, medicine, and product design, and how it has revolutionized prototyping and manufacturing.
Challenges:
Students may find it challenging to understand how additive manufacturing differs from traditional subtractive manufacturing methods (like cutting or milling), where material is removed to create the final product.
Real-World Applications:
3D printing is used to make custom prosthetics in healthcare, rapid prototyping in engineering, and even in construction, where homes are printed using concrete.
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Hot End: The part of the extruder that melts the filament.
Print Bed: The surface on which the object is printed.
Stepper Motors: Motors that control the movement of the extruder and print bed.
Key Concepts:
This section explains the primary components of a 3D printer: the extruder, hot end, print bed, and stepper motors. It breaks down their functions, helping students understand how each part contributes to the printing process.
Challenges:
Grasping how stepper motors precisely control the movement in all three axes (X, Y, Z) might be confusing. Visual aids and animations will help illustrate how these motors ensure accurate positioning.
Tips and Tricks:
Always ensure the print bed is clean and properly leveled before starting a print to avoid issues with adhesion.
Real-World Applications:
Understanding 3D printer components is crucial for troubleshooting and maintaining the printer, skills highly valued in industries that use 3D printing for manufacturing or prototyping.
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Calibration: The process of adjusting the printer to ensure proper operation.
Firmware: Software installed on the printer’s hardware that controls its operations.
Key Concepts:
This section provides a step-by-step guide on setting up the printer, including unpacking, assembling, and calibrating. Calibration is critical for ensuring accurate prints, and students will learn how to check the firmware version and adjust settings in the printer’s software.
Challenges:
Students might struggle with calibrating the print bed, as even small misalignments can cause print failures. Providing diagrams and video tutorials will help.
Tips and Tricks:
Always start with a small test print after setup to ensure the calibration is accurate before moving on to larger prints.
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Slicing: The process of converting a 3D model into a series of layers that the printer can read.
G-code: The language used to instruct the 3D printer on how to print the object.
Key Concepts:
Generating a G-code file is one of the most critical steps in 3D printing. This section will guide students through slicing a 3D model using popular software such as Cura. It explains the significance of G-code, which tells the printer how to move, extrude filament, and build the object layer by layer.
Challenges:
Understanding how slicing works and configuring the right print settings (layer height, infill, and print speed) can be overwhelming. Detailed explanations and visual representations of the settings will help.
Real-World Applications:
Mastering slicing software is essential for printing functional parts in engineering projects or creating prototypes that can be used in various industries.
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Infill Density: The amount of material inside the print.
Layer Height: The thickness of each layer in a print.
Print Speed: How fast the printer moves while extruding filament.
Key Concepts:
This section covers the most common 3D printing parameters, including infill density, layer height, and print speed. Students will learn how adjusting these parameters can affect print quality, strength, and print time.
Challenges:
It can be difficult for students to understand how changes to parameters like layer height impact both print quality and print time. Illustrations showing the difference in print results can help clarify these concepts.
Tips and Tricks:
Lowering the layer height produces finer prints but takes longer. Balancing print speed and quality is key for achieving optimal results.
New or Complex Vocabulary:
Warping: When the edges of a print lift off the bed during printing.
Under-extrusion: When not enough filament is extruded, causing gaps in the print.
Key Concepts:
Troubleshooting is an essential skill in 3D printing. This section outlines common problems such as warping, under-extrusion, and poor adhesion to the print bed. Students will learn how to diagnose and fix these issues.
Challenges:
Understanding the root cause of problems like warping or layer shifting can be tough for beginners. Including a troubleshooting flowchart will simplify the process.
Real-World Applications:
Learning to troubleshoot effectively ensures that students can maintain smooth 3D printing operations in both academic and professional environments.
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Materials Needed:
3D printer kit
Tools (usually included with the printer)
Power supply
User manual
Step-by-Step Assembly:
Unbox the Printer: Carefully unpack all components. Make sure no parts are missing (refer to the user manual’s parts list).
Assemble the Frame: If your printer comes as a kit, follow the instructions to assemble the frame. Use the provided tools to screw together the various components.
Mount the Extruder and Hot End: Attach the extruder to the designated spot, ensuring the hot end is securely fitted.
Install the Print Bed: Attach the print bed (the surface where prints will be made) to the printer’s frame.
Connect Wiring: Follow the wiring diagram in the manual to connect the motor wires, sensor wires, and power supply. Be careful to secure connections to avoid short circuits.
Attach Filament Holder: Mount the filament holder at the top or side of the printer (depending on the model).
Tip: Make sure to work in a well-lit, organized space to avoid losing small parts during assembly.
Calibration ensures your 3D printer works accurately, producing high-quality prints.
Step-by-Step Calibration:
Level the Print Bed:
Manually adjust the print bed by using the leveling screws located under the bed.
Place a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed and adjust the screws until the paper moves with slight resistance across the surface.
Set the Nozzle Height: This is typically done through the printer’s interface. Set the nozzle height so it is the optimal distance from the print bed (just enough to touch the paper).
Check Axis Movements: Use the printer's control panel to move the X, Y, and Z axes. Ensure smooth movement without any binding.
Adjust the Extruder: Load filament into the extruder and check if the extrusion is smooth. Ensure the filament flows consistently without clogging.
Tip: Regular calibration helps prevent issues like poor adhesion and uneven prints.
Step-by-Step Guide for Loading Filament:
Preheat the Hot End: In the printer’s control panel, navigate to the temperature settings and preheat the extruder (usually around 200°C for PLA filament).
Insert the Filament: Once the extruder is heated, insert the filament into the extruder’s filament input, ensuring the filament feeds smoothly into the tube.
Extrude a Test Line: Use the "Extrude" function in the printer’s settings to push a small amount of filament through the nozzle to ensure the material flows correctly.
Tip: Different filaments have different ideal temperatures (e.g., ABS around 230°C, PETG around 240°C), so make sure to check before printing.
To prepare a 3D model for printing, you’ll need to use slicing software like Cura, PrusaSlicer, or Simplify3D. This software converts 3D models into G-code, the language 3D printers understand.
Step-by-Step Software Setup:
Download and Install the Software:
Download your preferred slicing software (e.g., Cura) from the official website.
Install it on your computer.
Select Your Printer Model:
Open the slicing software and select the correct 3D printer model from the list of supported printers.
Configure Printer Settings:
Build Volume: Set the dimensions of your printer’s build area.
Nozzle Diameter: Typically 0.4mm, but this can vary.
Filament Type: Choose the filament you are using (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.).
Heated Bed: If your printer has a heated bed, enable this feature in the settings.
Tip: Start with the default settings recommended for your printer, and gradually tweak them as you gain more experience.
Step-by-Step Model Preparation:
Import the 3D Model: Open your slicing software and import the 3D model (STL or OBJ file) you want to print.
Position the Model on the Bed: Use the software’s interface to move, rotate, or scale the model as needed. Ensure the model fits within the build volume.
Configure Print Settings:
Layer Height: Determines the quality of the print. Typical layer heights are between 0.1mm (fine) to 0.3mm (fast).
Infill Density: Defines how solid the object is (20% infill is typical for non-functional parts).
Print Speed: Usually around 50-60 mm/s for PLA; slower speeds are recommended for higher quality prints.
Temperature: Set the nozzle temperature based on the filament type (e.g., 200°C for PLA).
Add Supports (If Necessary): For models with overhangs, enable support structures in the slicing software. Supports prevent parts from sagging during printing.
Slice the Model: Click the Slice button in the software to convert the model into G-code. This file will contain the instructions for your printer.
Tip: Always check the estimated print time after slicing to ensure you have enough time to complete the print.
Step-by-Step Transfer Process:
Save the G-code: After slicing, save the G-code file to an SD card or USB drive.
Insert the SD Card/USB Drive into the Printer: Once inserted, use the printer’s interface to select the file you want to print.
Start the Print: Choose the Start Print option, and your printer will begin the process of printing the object.
Tip: Make sure the printer is in a well-ventilated area and monitor the first few layers of the print to ensure proper adhesion to the bed.
Step-by-Step Monitoring:
Check Bed Adhesion: Ensure the first layer is sticking to the print bed without any lifting or curling. If needed, pause the print and adjust the bed or nozzle height.
Watch for Common Print Issues: Keep an eye out for issues like stringing, under-extrusion, or layer shifting.
Use a Webcam (Optional): If your printer supports it, use a webcam to remotely monitor long prints.
Step-by-Step Post-Processing:
Remove the Print: Once the print is complete and the bed has cooled, carefully remove the print using a spatula or print removal tool.
Clean Up: If your print used supports, carefully remove them with pliers or cutters. Sand any rough edges for a smooth finish.
Tip: Some prints may benefit from post-processing techniques like sanding, painting, or using acetone vapor (for ABS prints) to smooth the surface.
Here are some standard parameters you will configure in your slicing software:
Layer Height: 0.1mm to 0.3mm (lower values for higher detail).
Infill Density: 10% to 50% depending on strength needs.
Print Speed: 50-60 mm/s for PLA (slower for higher quality).
Nozzle Temperature: 200°C for PLA, 230°C for ABS.
Bed Temperature: 60°C for PLA, 100°C for ABS.
Print Bed Adhesion: Use a raft, brim, or glue stick to improve adhesion to the print bed.
By following these steps, you’ll be ready to set up and configure your 3D printer, generate a G-code file, and begin printing successfully. Happy printing!
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Here are 10 more typical 3D printer parameters that should be specified for optimal performance and print quality:
Retraction Distance:
Controls how much filament is pulled back into the nozzle during travel moves to reduce stringing.
Typical values: 1mm to 6mm (depending on printer type, direct-drive or Bowden extruder).
Retraction Speed:
The speed at which the filament is retracted.
Typical values: 20 mm/s to 60 mm/s (slower speeds for flexible filaments).
Print Cooling Fan Speed:
Controls the speed of the cooling fan used to cool the filament after extrusion.
Typical values: 100% for PLA, 0-30% for ABS (since it cools slower to prevent warping).
Travel Speed:
The speed at which the print head moves when not extruding filament.
Typical values: 120 mm/s to 200 mm/s.
Shell Thickness/Wall Line Count:
Defines the number of outer layers (shells) around the object.
Typical values: 0.8mm to 1.2mm (equivalent to 2-3 wall lines with a 0.4mm nozzle).
First Layer Height:
The layer height for the first layer of the print, often set slightly higher for better adhesion.
Typical values: 0.2mm to 0.3mm (regardless of overall layer height).
First Layer Speed:
The speed at which the first layer is printed, often slower for better adhesion.
Typical values: 20 mm/s to 30 mm/s.
Support Overhang Angle:
Specifies the maximum overhang angle (relative to vertical) that will require support structures.
Typical values: 45° to 60° (depending on the printer’s capabilities).
Top and Bottom Layer Thickness:
Controls the thickness of the solid top and bottom layers of the print.
Typical values: 0.6mm to 1.0mm (usually equivalent to 3-5 layers).
Bridging Speed:
The speed at which the printer moves when printing "bridges" (unsupported spans).
Typical values: 20 mm/s to 40 mm/s (slower speeds ensure better bridge quality).
By carefully adjusting these parameters in your slicing software, you can optimize print quality for different materials and models.
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Here are 10-20 typical parameters that students using UltiMaker Cura software should configure when generating a 3D printer file:
Controls the thickness of each printed layer.
Typical values: 0.1mm to 0.3mm (smaller layers for finer detail, larger layers for faster prints).
Defines the number of outer walls printed around each layer.
Typical values: 2-3 walls.
Controls how solid the interior of the print is.
Typical values: 10% to 20% for most objects, 50%+ for functional parts.
Determines the structure of the internal support (e.g., grid, lines, honeycomb).
Common patterns: Grid, Triangles, Gyroid, Cubic.
Adjusts how fast the print head moves during extrusion.
Typical values: 40 mm/s to 60 mm/s for general prints, slower for high-detail prints.
How much filament is retracted to prevent oozing during non-print moves.
Typical values: 4mm to 6mm for Bowden extruders, 1mm to 2mm for direct drive.
The speed at which the filament is pulled back during retraction.
Typical values: 25 mm/s to 40 mm/s.
The height of the first layer, often set larger for better adhesion.
Typical values: 0.2mm to 0.3mm.
Slower speed for better adhesion of the first layer.
Typical values: 20 mm/s to 30 mm/s.
Controls the temperature of the print bed.
Typical values: 60°C to 70°C for PLA, 90°C to 110°C for ABS.
Sets the temperature for the hot end that extrudes the filament.
Typical values: 200°C to 220°C for PLA, 240°C to 260°C for ABS.
Controls the cooling fan used to solidify the extruded filament.
Typical values: 100% for PLA, 0% to 30% for ABS.
Enables or disables support material for overhangs.
Types: Everywhere, Touching Buildplate.
Specifies the maximum overhang angle before supports are needed.
Typical values: 50° to 60°.
Determines how the model adheres to the bed. Options include Brim, Raft, and Skirt.
Brim is often used for better bed adhesion.
Adjusts the number of solid layers at the top and bottom of the print.
Typical values: 0.6mm to 1.2mm.
Controls how fast the print head moves when not extruding.
Typical values: 120 mm/s to 200 mm/s.
Reduces stringing by keeping the nozzle within the printed part during travel moves.
Typical mode: "Within Infill."
Lifts the nozzle slightly during travel to avoid dragging across the print.
Typical values: 0.2mm to 0.5mm.
Specifies the diameter of the filament used (usually 1.75mm or 2.85mm).
Ensure it matches the filament loaded in the printer.
By adjusting these parameters correctly in UltiMaker Cura, students can improve print quality, reduce errors, and optimize printing for different materials and models.
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This guide will help you configure a 3D printer file in UltiMaker Cura or similar slicing software. By following these steps, you'll be able to generate a G-code file ready for printing. Along the way, we’ll cover essential 3D printer parameters and G-code settings.
1. Choose Your Printer
Before starting, ensure that Cura is configured to work with your specific 3D printer model.
Steps:
Open Cura and navigate to the printer settings.
Select your printer model from the list, or add a new printer if it is not available.
Make sure that the build volume, nozzle size, and other hardware configurations are correct for your printer.
2. Import Your 3D Model
Steps:
Click on "Open File" and select your 3D model file (.STL, .OBJ, etc.).
The model will appear on the virtual build plate.
3. Orient and Position the Model
Steps:
Rotate and scale your model as needed using the built-in tools to ensure it fits within the print volume.
Check that the model is positioned flat on the build plate.
4. Set Layer Height (Resolution)
The layer height affects both print quality and speed.
Steps:
Go to the Layer Height setting.
For fine details, choose a smaller layer height (e.g., 0.1mm).
For quicker prints, select a larger layer height (e.g., 0.2mm to 0.3mm).
5. Set Infill Density and Pattern
Infill provides internal support for your model.
Steps:
Choose the Infill Density (10-20% for most prints, higher for stronger parts).
Select the Infill Pattern (e.g., Grid, Gyroid, or Triangles) based on strength and material savings.
6. Configure Wall/Shell Thickness
The outer walls (shells) give your print its surface strength and finish.
Steps:
Set Wall Line Count (typically 2-3 walls).
Alternatively, specify the Wall Thickness directly (e.g., 0.8mm to 1.2mm).
7. Adjust Print Speed
Printing speed impacts quality and time.
Steps:
Choose Print Speed (40 mm/s to 60 mm/s for most prints).
For intricate or detailed models, consider lowering the speed (30 mm/s).
8. Set Retraction Settings
Retraction settings help reduce stringing (unwanted filament between parts).
Steps:
Set Retraction Distance (4mm to 6mm for Bowden extruders, 1mm to 2mm for direct-drive extruders).
Set Retraction Speed (25 mm/s to 40 mm/s).
9. Configure Build Plate Adhesion
Ensure the model sticks to the bed during the print.
Steps:
Select Build Plate Adhesion Type (Brim or Raft are common for better adhesion).
Adjust the settings depending on the object size (Brim width, Raft layers, etc.).
10. Set Nozzle and Bed Temperature
Different filaments require specific temperatures.
Steps:
Set Nozzle Temperature (200°C to 220°C for PLA, 240°C to 260°C for ABS).
Set Build Plate Temperature (60°C to 70°C for PLA, 90°C to 110°C for ABS).
11. Cooling Fan Speed
Cooling is essential for some materials.
Steps:
Set the Cooling Fan Speed (100% for PLA, 0% to 30% for ABS).
12. Enable Support Structures
Supports are necessary for overhangs and complex geometries.
Steps:
Enable Support Structures if your model has overhangs.
Set the Support Overhang Angle (45° to 60°).
13. Adjust Initial Layer Settings
The first layer is critical for bed adhesion.
Steps:
Set Initial Layer Height slightly larger than the rest (e.g., 0.2mm to 0.3mm).
Lower the Initial Layer Speed (20 mm/s to 30 mm/s) for better adhesion.
14. Review Other Parameters
Other settings can be critical depending on the print.
Steps:
Check Z-Hop When Retracted to avoid the nozzle dragging across the print.
Set Travel Speed to prevent blobs or stringing (120 mm/s to 200 mm/s).
15. Generate G-code
Once the settings are configured, generate the G-code for your 3D printer.
Steps:
Click Slice to convert your 3D model into G-code.
Preview the sliced model to check layer lines and any potential issues.
Save the G-code to an SD card or transfer it directly to your printer if connected.
Layer Height: 0.1mm to 0.3mm
Wall Line Count: 2-3 walls
Infill Density: 10% to 20%
Infill Pattern: Grid, Gyroid, Triangles
Print Speed: 40 mm/s to 60 mm/s
Retraction Distance: 4mm to 6mm
Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s to 40 mm/s
Nozzle Temperature: 200°C to 220°C for PLA
Bed Temperature: 60°C to 70°C for PLA
Cooling Fan Speed: 100% for PLA
Support Structures: Enabled if needed
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Brim or Raft
With all the settings configured, you're ready to load your G-code into the 3D printer and start printing! Ensure you monitor the first few layers to verify proper adhesion and print quality.