This page will be reserved to spotlight certain topics covered on my Collector's Corner page. I have been meaning to add an extra page where I can delve deeper into some topics for some time. Scroll below to discover some of my past experiences hosting this site, sharing other collector's pick-ups, plus a contest I hosted. There's more details I can include here than on my weekly updated Collector's Corner page.
NEW: I have created a few extra Spot pages to show off some of the sets I have completed. Check out my recent Spot# 3 (1935 Bank of Canada series) Spot# 2 (Falkland Island set) & my first Spotlight pages. Each Spot page describes my past goals (criteria I was seeking), limits as well as some of the hurdles I had to overcome to put together the set in question.
GRADING: It is very difficult to talk about collecting banknotes without discussing a note's grade. Usually we start out by hearing the terms uncirculated (UNC); Almost Uncirculated (AU); Extra Fine (EF); Very Fine (VF); Fine (F) & Very Good (VG). After a while we don't give it much thought but when you're new to the hobby, it can be confusing. Even after collecting for a few years, I found grading somewhat intimidating because one must develop an eye for issues & processing. It is easy to overlook minor flaws in an AU note & think its an UNC note (from a conservative grader's perspective). And it can be challenging to understand the three levels of UNC. I have added a section on Grading below which introduces & explains the subject in a bit more detail. If you find it a bit dull, you may wish to skip right to a Youtube video I created years ago (below). The section below will not delve into Third Party Graded (TPG) notes (although I have borrowed on some of their terms/grade stage info). Don't be afraid to check as many sources on the topic as possible. This is what I do and I consider myself still a student on the subject.
Grading is an action: one in which you (or a certifier) assesses a note's condition.
The best exercise you can do to improve your banknote grading is to examine a note's state & discuss its grade with fellow collectors. The more you commit & practice assessing a note's condition, the better you'll become (just like any skill). If you want to improve, you must participate (practice) in a safe environment where you're not afraid to make mistakes. What I used to do was go to my local bank branch and ask for crisp new (UNC) notes. Viewing the characteristics of a good uncirculated banknote is a good starting point. Even crisp notes from a bank bundle may have been handled. Normally, the note won't be made perfectly either. These minor imperfections (+ slight handling) is what brings a note down from a perfect GEM UNC 70. This is where it gets tricky & certifiers use light boxes and loupes to examine a note minutely. I don't have to encourage you to get circulated banknotes because these are the most abundant notes out there. Get as many of these as you like & once again assess the GRADES in the following increments (from perfect to poor).
A "Super Gem" (G UNC 67-70 EPQ, PPQ or Original) is a near perfect note with no flaws (70) to a few very minor flaws (67-69). These are hard notes to find: this is why you hear the expression "grade rarity" since most bundles get knocked around in the production process (& the production of banknote sheets is anything but perfect). Gem 67, 68 & 69's are more common but once again are far superior quality with full embossing & "Original" paper. Certifiers also use the expressions Exceptional Paper Quality (EPQ) or Premium Paper Quality (PPQ). Super Gems have raised ink & bright colours which almost seem to "pop" out when viewing. These top notes are inspected for perfect registration (how the reverse lines up with the obverse).
A "Gem" note (G UNC 65/66) is more common grade level than the "super gem." It has been produced with its design usually well centred. But the registration is usually less perfect with the Gem 67 & 65 (odd # grades). Minor imperfections may be noted on the the note's edges/corners but overall they're not very noticeable. Notes like these have great embossing & vivid colours. It is a near perfect example which many find difficult to differentiate from the higher degrees of perfection! A light box & loupe will be needed to differentiate the higher degrees of gem & super gem.
A "Choice UNC" note (C UNC 62-64 EPQ, PPQ or Original)
This note may have almost all the characteristics found in the Gem except the design won't be as perfectly centred. The note also demonstrates some very minor handling. Notes graded "63" have designs that are usually somewhat tilted or a little off-centred in 2 directions. Choice UNC notes may have minor signs of handling (bends) but NO folds (that break the paper fibres). EPQ notes have original paper and strong colours/embossing. The 63/64 note is typically the most common UNC grade.
This term typically means a note that has a grade of UNC 60 EPQ & is not often seen as much as the Choice UNC example. The note never circulated but usually has been poorly stored or handled. It will also have design flaws (such as an "as made" wrinkle). Visible signs of handling include edge bends, a dimple in the middle that detract it from the Choice grade. It also may have colours that are slightly faded, stray ink smudges, uneven serial numbers, uneven borders and other inherent production flaws. The flaws are usually noticeable without the aid of a light box.
This is a perfect note but has one tellers counting flick (fold), an edge bump, or a light fold that may traverse the whole note vertically (not horizontally). Evidence of minor circulation is visible. Bright colours and embossing should be evident on EPQ/original examples and the note should look UNC at first glance. In Canada, the moment an UNC note has an issue (glue residue, minor tear, ink spot) the note will be bumped down from UNC 62 to AU 58 (with no "original" designation).
This note has 2-3 folds (not creases) and evidence of circulation. The Extra Fine note looks AU but begins to show signs of circulation. It is for the most part still very attractive with bright original colours, embossing & most of the virtues of a perfect note. It is a lot like the AU example except that the note has 2-3 folds are across the entire note.
This is the most common circulated grade when a note is pulled from circulation showing medium or an average degree of wear & tear. There are three degrees of a VF (a high 35 or VF+, a mid-grade VF30 and low grade VF20). A VF 35 note can have 3 creases but should be crisp and clean (like an EF with no soiling). Colours should be bold and strong (like an AU). The edges and corners should also be quite original. The VF 30 note shows minor soiling with corner & edge problems (like an EF). The VF 25 note is soiled with corner bumps and edge wear (more signs of circulation & unlike EF). The VF20 note shows soiling and many problems (very circulated & slightly better than F15). It is only separated from a Fine note by the fact that paper fibres are not broken (not evident) in any major creases (as seen with Fine). Canadian, conservative graders do not award "Original" to notes that are below VF 30. It is also important to remember that AU to VG notes may have any number of issues (pen marks, staple holes, tears, etc) which eliminate their EPQ or Original status.
A Fine F note is worse than a VF example in that it is soiled & one crease will show design has worn off slightly. A F 15 note may retain some of its crispness while a F 12 is usually limp. Notes like these can also have edge tears, splits along the vertical centre fold, stains & graffiti. A "Choice" Fine is generally a F 15 example without the issues (almost a VF20).
The joke amongst collectors is "that a Very Good note is not very good." This limp note has been crushed into a ball a few times, is very soiled and several creases which show design missing (worn off). The note is likely stained yellow & probably has edge tears.
The Good note is much like the VG note but likely has even more issues, including ink, stains, tears & pieces missing. These (& VG low grade notes) usually are kept because they're very rare.
When assessing a circulated note:
A great technique to assessing a circulated note, is to put up a pen light adjacent to the note. In a darkened room the side light should emphasize the note's imperfections. Check this link on the Paper Money Forum to see a side-lighted note.
LEARN TO GRADE FIRST:
I encourage collectors to sharpen up their grading skills as soon as they can. However, I have never pushed the "Grade First" agenda since I know (from 1st hand experience) that assessing a note is a skill. It is a skill that takes time & practice (& cannot be rushed). It is not something one picks up like a job skill. It is more like a language skill (we get fairly good but often stuck at certain plateaux, then we may or may not improve, but generally we do become more fluent, the more we speak, or participate as a grader).
Check out the GRADING video (I made many moons ago) in the section below.
Here is a comprehensive blog on grading:
Banknote Grading Podcast (Part 1)
Banknote Grading Podcast (Part 2)
They use an excellent dialogue of question/answer format & use clear, concise terms that hit the nail on the head (IMO). The graphics/visuals really illuminate the complicated process of Third Party Grading (Part 2) & doctoring. I highly recommend checking these 2 videos out!
This has been a slow month for me so I have added 5 Spot sets. In addition, I have added a section on GRADING (above). Stay tuned as I will add more perspectives on the Social Media aspect of our hobby in September.
I want to express a concern I have over a trend I see consistently expressed on social media & youtube videos. The trend is to "buy" any circulated notes (the poster can get) from an exchange outlet or to seek regular UNC notes from banks. For me, this is "flying blind" and only hoarding. The reason I caution against "stashing UNC batches of present day series is because tens of millions of these have been issued. THEY ARE NOT RARE & thus not very collectible. (I am not discouraging collectors from keeping SELECT UNC notes but encourage collectors not to STORE large amounts of $ but to spend $ on something collectible). Remember, you're not the first person to hoard cash & the notes might never be collectible (just because they're UNC). If your nation were to go cashless tomorrow I doubt these UNC notes will become any more collectible (b/c tens of millions exist).
I rather encourage you to LEARN what is TOUGH to collect (special serial #, short prefixes, errors, etc) and to seek these! Buy the most collectible note (a grade rarity of a popular older series)! This does NOT mean exchanging your hard earned paycheque for a circulated 1000 CHF! That would be tying up important funds you can use for a tough lower denomination. The important factor here is to make the BEST USE of your limited funds! LEARNING WHAT TO COLLECT helps you become a more EFFECTIVE & efficient COLLECTOR. Many posts on social media demonstrate hoarding: they're not showing sets but hoards of circulated CASH. Globe trotters show off their old souvenirs from their amazing adventures. They're nice, BUT they're NOT that collectible! Try to resist the urge to copy this aimless, haphazard, hoarding habit! Collectible notes don't belong in an envelope: they're meant to be seen.
So often I see YOUTUBE videos extolling the virtues of "BUYING FOREIGN NOTES" because "they're cheap!" Next, we see the "collector" flip through pages of old, tattered Reichsbanknotes. I agree- they are impressively large & other worldly! BUT: they're also available in UNC condition for a few dollars each! If these notes only cost us a few bucks in UNC, what do you think the ratty versions will fetch? Pennies? Maybe- but again, the reality is when they were issued in the hundred of millions, they're pretty hard to get rid of when they're falling apart & brittle!
I understand that sometimes a collection was gifted by a relative (or inherited) but again, if you're serious about becoming a better, more effective collector, just take some time to learn which nations to collect or learn why they're sought! The other option is to select a WORLD MOTIF get so much more from this great hobby!
I have put together some effective strategies for your consideration throughout this site & in each SPOT page. Please take a few minutes to read & consider how they may help you acquire collectible, sought after, currency.
This section will discuss the topic of TPG Third Party Graded (TPG) notes versus uncertified notes. My position is that we should be able to acquire BOTH! Like so many topics in this hobby, there is no dichotomy (either or) but more grey areas (a little bit of both). Also, it is perfectly fine if you only collect TPG or if you avoid TPG & exclusively collect uncertified. I just encourage collectors to keep the best condition they can afford & when it comes to certain nations, UNC is always a best bet. Read on MacBeth!
Often, there are many threads (& online chatter) plus loud arguments over the proposition "to grade or not to grade, that is the question!" This dilemma should not have such Shakespearean stakes, but it seems to elicit much online debate! In many threads I have come across collectors seem to be quite invested in one OR the other positions. In my mind, there's no clear cut divide but rather we must consider each note (on its own merit & whether it should be certified, or not). I have seen many attacks on collectors who wish to discuss a graded note & often the attacks are directed at poorly TPG (or certified) notes. I will not get dragged into this debate! The pros & cons to certified notes are well known. While I do acknowledge that there is far too many low-valued notes certified, I cannot support the idea that we must "throw the baby out with the bathwater" & dismiss graded notes altogether. That would be turning back the clock. At one time, I was completely AGAINST the entire idea of a note certified by another person (third party) since I was capable of grading the note myself. However, once I wanted to buy some original examples of the Bank of Canada 1935 series (which lasted only 2 years), I really wanted assurance that the note I was purchasing (at that PRICE) was indeed the grade the seller claimed! This (& the idea that a certain tough note) would need a 3rd party to certify it as "such & such" grade level, suddenly became more appealing than relying on someone else's assessment. Today's banknote marketplace is largely online so if one is purchasing notes online, it is PRIMO to have a certified note which states the notes grade (& mentions any issues one should be aware of) when it means a certain amount of money invested! Tough TPG notes are much more liquid (easy to sell) in the online marketplace. I certainly believe that this trend will only increase over time (not decrease).
Some of my favourite threads centre around the art of grading (or the pitfalls of such a monumental task!) I also believe that we can learn a LOT by examining what notes people are submitting (what grades they were expecting contrasted by the grade awarded). HERE is my TPG thread on my own PMG bulk submissions. Here is a PMF thread on whether one should choose TPG or uncertified. Here is another PMF thread on Legacy grading. For me TPG (or not TPG), is like that old cashless society argument, there's no reason why both cannot co-exist! Lower valued notes definitely don't need certification (in my books) while higher valued notes can get the holder (& better preservation).
Research the nation's catalogue, SCWPM, The Banknote Book or other online numismatic resources [use Sites & Forums to start]. If you don't like the idea of research, then just try to maintain a regular presence on your favourite forum, social media outlet, or here on Collector's Corner. The idea is to keep yourself engaged in the hobby without spending a cent. By dropping by weekly & reading about what others find interesting, you may discover a deeper connection to what nations/series you wish to acquire!
If you're struggling with selecting a target nation/series, check out this World Motif page. I believe choosing which nation/series should also entail drawing the line at what you won't collect (for me: I avoid Zero Euros, high denoms, fantasy notes, specimens, etc). Drawing a line at what you won't collect can be as important as knowing what you will collect!
Understand how a note is graded* (& which grade level you should look out for/or can afford). Be also vigilant in knowing how some "bad apples" will process a note (wash & press an older series so it appears to be a much higher grade than it really is)
Budget for pricey items (think of the highest amount you can part with- without financial strain- per note). One principal I stand by is avoiding high denominations. MID-level denominations ($5, $10 & $20) are a "much better buy" IMO for a number of good reasons (mostly due to selling later).
Avoid "I will upgrade later" approach! This can be very costly approach in the long run (& I always try to think of the big picture or the long game). This is why it is important to be also careful with a "gap-filler" approach.
Beware of "deals" (if it looks too good to be true- it probably is: note has been washed, trimmed? It saves $ to be cautious & suspicious when its $$$).
Avoid processed notes (washed, trimmed, spots removed, etc). Often, if you discover a problem (or issue) this means other problems (eg: if its been washed, it may have also been trimmed, etc). There are many more processed notes than one would suspect (again, because this hobby involves money).
Buy PVC-Free currency sleeves, pages & album to show/store your notes (remember you must preserve your collection so don't cheap out on this step)
Keep your collection in a dry place & take pride in what you have acquired!
*REMEMBER that learning to grade takes time & PRACTICE. A great way to learn is by taking a stack of circulated notes & committing yourself to a grade (call it out loud - amongst your friends/other collectors). Learning to grade takes time & practice (I know I repeated myself but for good reason). This is why going to a coin show & networking will only make you a better collector (especially if you share your views on a circulated note's grade). Don't be shy because not stating a grade (& forming silent opinions) won't help you! Stating out loud why you think a note is VF or Fine grade will.
Note is AU* to Gem UNC (EF or Almost Uncirculated* for older tougher series to Gem Uncirculated for more recent series) & note has great eye appeal
You have learned how to grade & to detect processing using side-lighting
You know what series to look for (& understand the various security features to be found per series)
You know what notes would make a great set!
You have learned the nitty-gritty about paper & have excellent sources of notes from fellow collectors &/or trustworthy, reputable dealers
If above doesn't apply to you: you still understand how to navigate eBay, online sellers, LCS, auction platforms or other ways to acquire collectible notes
You enjoy educating yourself & have been to a few coin shows (or your LCS) & are ready to get started
You have inherited a collection from a relative
You have collected coins & wish to branch into paper (you've found some notes yourself & wish to expand your collection)
You admire the designs of some nations & wish to build a MOTIF set (or theme) based collection
Discontinued series (Pre-Euro, Pre-Eastern Caribbean States, Ecuador, El Salvador, Yugoslavia, discontinued series) which remain popular
Discontinued denominations (Portuguese reis or pre-Escudos; Australian Pounds, East African Rupees/Florins, etc) a collector favourite
Colonial currency (Belgian Congo, Biafra, Sarawak, etc.) always has a strong following due to its historical connections
Original series that have 2nd modified series (EG: Bank of Canada's Devil's Face, Bank of Canada's Journey, East Caribbean States 1993 , Belgium P-140 original 100 Francs vs modified P-142, etc) tend to be tougher to source & typically retain collector loyalty
Special serial numbers popular & so easy to sell!
Errors BUT be sure you know what constitutes an error before you buy! REMEMBER that there are "faux errors" or manufactured/fake errors from cut sheets- so don't be scammed by a conman!
First "A01" prefixes on certain nations (such as Great Britain), Change-over prefixes or Last or short prefixes are always sought after & tougher than regular (full run) prefixes
Popular or small island nations (eg: Bahamas, Fiji, Bermuda, Cyprus, Malta, etc) are typically tough
Odd, irregular or discontinued denominations have large collector followings ($2.50 or 25 Colones, etc)
Popular Motifs (Airplanes, science, animals, etc)
Buy what other collectors seek but don't get caught up in HYPE. Hype has been generated over hyperinflation notes (such as the ONE HUNDRED TRILLION note from Zimbabwe). There are many other hyperinflation denominations which surpass Zimbabwe's P-91 (& are far tougher to acquire) but haven't been marketed as aggressively.
Seek sellers who offer discounted/combined (or free) shipping (shipping is expensive & adds up)
Establish a relationship with a trusted seller (who has proven to be a conservative grader (honest/dependable).
*AU (Almost Uncirculated) is a fairly common grade & your note should be EPQ or Original if you cannot afford a higher level of UNC (Choice to Gem) on an older series. AVOID non-EPQ (non original) modern day series (these notes usually have been pressed). Older non-EPQ often mean the note has been processed (washed-pressed) & really should be avoided since they're often much more difficult to sell down the road. In rarer series (eg, colonial Africa), non EPQ notes are your only grade-level one can collect. In cases such as these, I recommend you acquire the best eye appeal (or note with the least issues).
Holding onto $500 worth of circulated/damaged common notes (spend this money on collectible notes/supplies!) Relevance & eye appeal matters!
Hoarding $10,000 worth of common UNC notes (instead of putting that money towards something truly collectible). Or buying a number of dated $1000 notes because someone told you that they're rare (or uncommon). This may be true but they're also very hard to unload.
Remember the collectibles market always follows cycles (much like the stock market): when the market is volatile/collectibles can also be volatile & inexpensive, tough notes can be acquired during these trying times! Making wise purchase decisions is key to assembling a great collection.
Stuffing your notes in envelopes. Globe trotters who look at cash as souvenirs often do this. Instead you should use appropriate PVC-free (or museum quality) currency sleeves & either display notes in a binder or keep them stored in sealed dry boxes!
Don't buy on impulse (if you only sing in the shower your voice will only be "so-so"). Develop consistent positive habits (eg: buy the note/not the holder) & value what you purchase!
Avoid first time sellers (give non-established online dealers a wide berth). Always err on the side of caution (if in doubt move to another stall)!
Avoid Flea markets (they often get notes that Local Coin Shops (LCS) won't buy) & prices are steep b/c amateurs don't know how to grade & they don't know how to approximate a note's book value
Be skeptical of sales pitches such as: "Not to be Missed!" or "fantastic investment opportunity" (etc). Its sadly all over the place (unfortunately).
The "forever" trap: "I'm keeping this one forever." Sell your doubles! If the price is reasonable do not turn down a reasonable offer. Use the money to buy supplies or some other note you've wanted for some time. Remain flexible & keep/expand your network.
Avoid over handling & poor storage (say "no" to basements!) Don't allow your collection to degrade due to lack of care (this isn't just lazy: its negligent).
Steer clear of sellers who use hyperbole such as "rare" or "scarce" to describe common full-run prefix. If they call a toned, mishandled note UNC or "UNC -but with spots" or "NEAR MINT" red-flag them.
Honest SELLERS use correct terms! If sellers employ incorrect/coin-related terms take a pass.
(Check out Notable Terms page if any of these terms are unfamiliar)
Before Queen Elizabeth passed away, I would go to my local currency exchange outlet & try to get some UNC examples of Bank of Englands polymer notes. I wanted to buy 5, 10 & 20 Pound notes. The exchange for 1 Pound neared $2.00 CAD so buying 50 Pounds was off my agenda. What I discovered was that it was difficult to buy UNC 10 Pound notes (P-395).
Since this pursuit (which started in 2019 or pre-pandemic era), I have been somewhat successful for the 5 & 20 Pound notes but mostly unsuccessful with the others (especially the TENS & TWENTIES).
More recently, after the queen's death, I naturally wanted some King Charles III versions. So about 4 months ago (late spring/early summer) I began getting 5 Pound banknotes with his image in nice UNC no problem. Once again, I have been stymied obtaining the 10 & 20 Pound notes. However, today, I received my first 10 & even bought a 50 Pound note since I asked them to provide me with any KCIII notes they had. I had purchased 100 Pounds worth of notes (hoping this would give them the incentive to help me). The best thing about my 50 Pound (which I had plans on spending) was that it has a nice 2 digit serial number! See below for the notes I picked up at my bank today.
Below is the 6 note 1st prize for the winner of the JUNE PMF contest. Take the link if you'd like to see who won!
LOW # 6 SET PRIZE went to the contestant with the most points:
The first note pictured is the Philippines 100 Pesos (P-208a) printed in 2010 with the low #6. The 2nd note is a 50 Pesos (P-207a) printed in 2010 with the low #6. The 3rd note is a 20 Pesos (P-206a) printed in 2010 with the low #6. All three notes came from the "New Generation" Series & the 2010 (first issues) were printed in France. I have been told by Filipinos that they were harder to acquire in the Philippines than the earlier/older Seal Type series. The 4th note (P-182k) from the Seal Type 5 Issue was printed in the Philippines & was much more commonly seen/used in 2010 (also & Low #6). The New Generation 5th note (P-206 Not Listed) was printed in 2019 & is a solid radar (666666) while the 6th note is an early 2016 Duterte signed note. All notes are Choice to Gem UNC.
This Commemorative prize set was awarded to a new PMF contestant (lower than 100 posts) with the highest score.
First note is P-112 $10 Commemorating 150 years of Canada's confederation. The 50 Baht from Thailand (P-99) celebrates 50 years of their King Rama IX on the throne. The Romanian 2000 Lei (P-111) celebrated the solar eclipse & the new milennium. The $2.00 (P-61) from the East Caribbean Central bank celebrated 40 years of its existence honouring their "master blaster" cricket legend Isaac Richards. The 25 Dirhams (P-73) from Morocco celebrated the 25th Anniversary of Dar As-Sikkah.
(Both contests ended at the end of June 2024)
Saturday May 18th 2024:
Kyle, a collector friend from the US, has been sharing his Local Coin Shop adventures with me. He has regularly hunted their "Bargain Bin" for World (especially Canadian) banknotes for over 2 years. He often snags some great notes priced too good to pass up. Often he shows me his latest find (a "cherry pick" in my books) & I know other collectors may be curious about what can be found at their LCS. Each note Kyle has purchased, he has paid bargain prices for. I have shared three of his finds he submitted to PCGS-B below (this is just a small sample of what he has bought well below book value).
Only 300,000 of the DC-1c (with no check letter) shinplasters were issued by the Dominion of Canada. Kyle has a great eye for acceptable eye appeal & since the 150 year old note was under $5 USD he quickly "pulled the trigger." PCGS has awarded the note a VF-20 which is a fair assessment considering the note shows no design loss (common for the VG - F notes) along the creases. It has great eye-appeal considering the toned paper but will no longer deteriorate as it has been sealed in a PCGS-B holder. BTW: this note could sell for 30 times what Kyle paid for it now!
A full 10,000,000 run of H/A "Narrow Panel" 1937 $1.00 banknotes were issued but it wasn't until years later that collectors realized the design was adjusted to accommodate the Governor/Deputy Governors' signatures, thus few were saved. Kyle picked this TOUGH note up for the same small change he paid for his Dominion shinplaster. The fact that it came back with a Very Fine 25 grade must have been more music to his ears. The note is equally pleasing on the reverse (no issues). Another great cherry pick which could fetch him 22 times what he paid for the note!
The 1937 $5.00 X/C prefix change-over (BC-23b) set Kyle back much more than the first 2 notes (naturally) but it was still approximately 1/3 of my old (2019) Charlton Book Value (super low price). PCGS awarded it an Extra Fine - 40 grade which I'm sure was "icing on the cake" for Kyle! This handsome BC-23b $5.00 note had approximately 5,000,000 issued with the Gordon Towers signature so it is much less common than a 10,000,000 (full run) FIVE or a 1937 FIVE with the last "Coyne Towers" (BC-23c) signature combo! This lovely note (with loads of eye appeal) will now be worth three times what Kyle paid!
For future Spotlights!