Mixing, Priming & Filling With Juice
Mixing, Priming & Filling With Juice
If you followed the previous recommendations, you'll already have a good idea of the amount desired. Also, there are level diagrams for all tanks reviewed on this site.
If you haven't previously made juice, then you'll need a few items, and an example mixing procedure is shown here (link takes you to the correct part)
The Dead Rabbit V3 & Arbiter 2 have very similar capacities, so if using either, then I suggest 3.5-4.0ml which'll get the tank to a useful level, with a little spare for topping up.
Dead Rabbit V3 & Arbiter 2 juice level diagrams. Similar ones exist for all other tanks reviewed on this site.
Once plain PG/VG testing is completed and you're happy with everything, the Dimitri juice can be mixed. Here's a couple of starter examples.
Single coil installation (on single or dual coil deck) For the suggested 26x2+36, 6 turns, Ø3mm or similar as mentioned here to obtain 60-80mm² heating surface area (as indicated by Wirebuddy), then I suggest starting with a 1:4 60PG/40VG, fine-tuning in future tankfuls
However, if your coil isn't much above or actually below 60mm² then consider using a slightly stronger mix to maintain potency, say 1:3.5 or even 1:3 - but still 60PG/40VG. It all depends on how punchy you'd like it. For gentler experiences or vapourhuasca, far weaker mixes down to 1:6 ish will still be perfectly usable.
Dual coil installation Options for dual coil are far more varied. If using the dual 26x2+36, 5 turns, Ø3mm or similar as mentioned here then a 1:4 60PG/40VG should provide a wide exploration potential to suit almost anyone, although some may prefer slightly weaker mixes. With dual coil operation, there's much versatility for experimentation with different Wattages/toke rates/coils to fine tune desired juice strengths.
Juice Buddy provides quantities on juice mixing
If you've been testing with plain PG/VG (no dimitri), I suggest re-wicking with fresh cotton & priming with Dimitri juice prior to filling with the same. Unless the wick is changed, there'll be much frustratingly weak toking before full strength is achieved
By far the most common priming error is trying to do it too quickly and/or over-saturating, causing drips/pooling. This'll lead to flooding, gurgling, possible juice ingestion, leaking & lack of vapour (even at high wattages). The only juice in the inner chamber should be wick-resident, so free juice in here is undesirable.
So pprime slowly, allowing it to soak in fully before re-applying in a different place. Better to err on the side of dry rather than too wet.
If your syringe is prone to sudden squirting of jets then consider a 5ml dripper bottle (see pic), which will be much more predictable
Dripper bottles cost pennies and can make priming much easier & less spillage. Generally made from LDPE and before you ask, no - personally I don't care about it being "plastic"
I'd suggest filling to only halfway up the glass, securing the cap, and checking for obvious leaks. A pinched O-ring or crossed thread can have juice leaking over your mod, which is arguably best avoided for longer term reliability.
Even when you're sure all is OK, I suggest filling to only about ¾ way up the glass until you're sure the tank can handle higher levels. I'm not certain why, but ime some tanks (not all) seem more prone to flooding when filled right to the upper limit.
Squirting the juice in under pressure also seems to iincrease rrisk of flooding. It appears to be far better to fill gently, again perhaps using a dripper bottle.
When completed, replace the cap without delay. I suggest leaving for an hour or so just to make sure that the juice has soaked evenly into the wick before some initial checks with low wattages.
In case you're unfamiiiar, fill through either or both of the outer kidney-shaped ports. Avoid any juice enterng the centre hole, as this is the air outlet to the driptip. Any free juice going down here may cause gurgling, lack of vapour, juice ingestion & leaking.