Insights
Defining Craft in Context to India
Insight 01
What is the Definition of Craft in indian context ?
The Ministry of Textiles tentatively proposes the definition of Handicrafts as
“Item or product produced through skills that are manual, with or without mechanical or electrical or other processes, which appeal to the eye due to the characteristics of being artistic or aesthetic or creative or ethnic or being representative of cultural or religious or social symbols of practices, whether traditional or contemporary. These items or products may or may not have a functional utility and can be used as a decorative item or gift."
The development commissioner of handicrafts
defined crafts as ‘items made by hand, often with the use of simple tools and generally artistic and /or traditional in nature. They Include objects of utility and objects of decoration’.
Insight 02
How Craft gives an identity ?
Identity to a user
Crafts as Identity of the user
Crafts as identity of the lifestyle
Crafts as identity of community
Crafts as identity of region
Crafts as identity of the tradition
Crafts as identity of the religion
Crafts as identity of the beliefs
Crafts as identity of the culture : Crafts act as a platform to carry and sustain cultural associations & that had been gradually developed and personified over time.
Craft as tradition vs commercial commodity
Identity to a Maker
Crafts as identity of skills : Skill combined with artistic integrity, created and developed into something that is appreciated by people
Crafts as identity of the material
Crafts as identity of the creator
Insight 03
What Craft Means /medium for Indians ?
Medium of
Means to carry traditions
Means for self-expression
Medium to analyse the relations between different events and situations in life
Medium for artisans to adjust to life situations
Medium to provide employment opportunities
Medium to spend time in creating with materials.
Insight 04
What are the function of a craft in indian context ?
Multifaceted concept which combines meanings with the usability and utility of an object
A symbol of status, economical
Decorative / ornamental
Religious
Ritualistic
Utilitarian
Cultural
Self expression
Economic
Value learning
Amusement
Gifting
Craft Making
Insight 05
Craft making as a act of Material forming?
Material/things people encounter, interact and use to make something out of it, seeing their own identities in them
Material can be the identity of the craft
Choice of material is dependent on makers and buyers need and availability
Material dictates the form
Properties of material determines the end product
Material adds aesthetic value
Materials determines longevity
Material determines persona of customers
Materials depends on duration of the process itself & vice versa
Material determines the value of the product
Material hierarchy determine social hierarchy and vice versa
Connection of artisan to material
Religious, cultural and traditional relevance of material choice
Availability of material depended on geography, region, climate/season
Materials determines kind of skills,equipment and tools
Insight 06
Craft as an Activity what it means to indian?
Craft as a process refers to the wholeness of a person’s life situation and to intuitive learning
Craft as activity based on both the intellectual and physical characteristics of the maker
Craft is process of creating a form, function and imbibing emotion
Crafts are a process to empower the individual
An action for putting a part of one's identity
Craft is a rejuvenating process
Use of manually operated machines/tools become a part of the making process
Small scale operations
Insight 07
What Craft features ?
Craft is based on knowledge and philosophy of the maker/community
A diverse array of practices and positions, which has persisted for some time
Fusion of discipline, imagination, dedication and inspiration
Sense of achievement gained in producing them
Properties & significance of materials plays a major role
An activity that contains emotional as well as intellectual and physical processes in the act of making, manipulating, articulating and sensory experiencing of materials
Insight 08
Act of Craft making as an self Expression
Self expression of the maker
Self expression of the user
Self expression of the community
Self expression of the spirituality
Expression and manifestation of a belief
Expression and manifestation of a religion
Expression through material
Expression of a lifestyle
Insight 09
Craft as a Narration ?
Narration in craft captures glory of history, current affairs, social issues, victories and battles
It is a method of documentation
Mythological stories/ characters
Culture, tradition and religion narration
Family lineage
Narratives derive from their own environments
Insight 10
Defining Craft as a Multi-sensory activity?
Visually appealing
Tactile
Auditory Experiences
Olfactory Experience
Crafts can evoke emotions and feelings
Therapeutic
Craft as a cognitive experience
Synchronization in senses
Insight 11
Describe a perspective to see Craft as ART?
Craft as art that involves certain features that contribute to both looking and performing right in the mind of the beholder
Practice of art may evolve into a craft
A distinctive knowledge that is intuitive and expressed through making and doing
Insight 12
How Craft is a collaborative Practice?
A skill in planning, making & executing
Collaboration between different stakeholders
Collaboration of different techniques.
Inter/ intra craft community based collaboration
Collaboration between castes
Collaboration between skill based communities
Collaboration between different professions
Collaboration between different institutions
Origin of Craft
Insight 13
Why Craft originated ?
Due to trade
Barter
Entertainment/ Recreation
Musical instruments
From another craft
Source of income
Due to livelihood
Geography
Mineral deposits
Climate
Flora and fauna
Topography
Language?
Due to material availability
Behaviour of material (Properties)
Local resources (Materials, labour, etc.)
Due to material knowledge
For ornamentation
Due to architecture
Due to religion
Festivals
Rituals
Mythology
Beliefs and practices
Due to basic needs
Re-usability
Economy
Lifestyle
Due to gender roles
Patriarchal society
Leisure
Physical strength
Social responsibility
Due to social structure
Wealth
Material hierarchy
Caste system
Royal demands & requirements
A medium to record warfare strategies
Documenting the glory
Used for diplomatic exchanges
Patronage
Medium to record history
Amusement and entertainment
Warfare commodities
Due to royal trends
Status symbol
Generation of wealth
Insight 14
What are the broad division in type of Craft ?
Material based
Cultural significance
Geography based
Religious craft
Royal patronage
Monetary significance
Ornamental
Migrated crafts
Narratives
Insight 15
What defines the 'authenticity' of craft practice ?
The overall form and visual aesthetics of the craft
The iconography used ,The colour palette ,Visual texture
Region the craft is practiced or originates from
The culture of the community making the craft
The material used in the craft
The skills and technique of the craft
Tools and equipment used in the craft process
The purpose of the end product
Insight 16
How indian perceive specialty of Craft?
Strong dependence on indigenous mode of production to earn money
Imperfections of handwork and use of indigenous tools is what differentiates craft from commodity
Flexibility in customisation of tools as per need
Quality & volume of crafts in India & China are similar to mechanised products
Insight 17
How History has influenced the Indian Craft practices
Indus valley civilisation
The first references to Indian handicrafts can be found from the Indus Valley civilisation (3000 B.C.-1700 B.C.). The craft tradition in India has revolved around religious beliefs, local needs of the commoners, as well as the special needs of the patrons and royalty, along with an eye for foreign and domestic trade. (Rich craft tradition found throughout Indus Valley civilisation.)
Vedic
The Indus Valley civilisation was allowed by the Vedic age in 1500 B.C. when the Vedas were written. There are no. of references in the Vedas on artisans involved in pottery making, weaving, wood crating etc. In Rig Veda particular reference to a variety of pottery made from clay, wood and metal.
State Empires
The concept of state was ushered by the rise of the Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century B.C. It is said that during the time of Ashoka 84,000 3 Stupas were built in India, including the world-famous Sanchi Stupa, which has beautiful Stone Carving and relief work done on it. The iron pillars of Vaishali (Bihar) and Delhi, created during the time of Emperor Ashoka, are a marvel in the field of Metallurgy.
Post-Mauryan period
The period between the 1st century B.C. and 1st century A.D. was a period of political turmoil as a result of foreign invasions from central Asia.
Jewellery, sculpture, textile making, leather products, metalworking etc. were the main handicrafts that inherited these foreign influences and assimilated them in accordance with the Indian milieu.
Feudalism in post Mauryan era
Gupta Age
The points in the field of craft include the rock-cut temples of Ellora and the Ajanta murals.
The craftsmen of this period, under royal patronage excelled in jewellery making, woodcarving, sculpture, stone carving and weaving. Trade links between India and the rest of the world were well established through various routes. Indian textiles and dyes were in demand in the global market. Silk export from India to from 6 century AD.
Medieval Period
The Medieval period of Indian history in the context of handicrafts showed a marked shift from north India to the Deccan and southern parts of the country, though the handicraftsmen under the Delhi Sultanate period flourished in the field of pottery, weaving, wood carving, metalworking, jewellery etc.
The Medieval period the handicraftsmen flourished in the field of pottery, weaving, wood carving, metalworking, jewellery etc. The contribution of the Cholas and the Vijaynagar Empire in the field of bronze sculpture, silk weaving, jewellery, temple carving is simply unparalleled.
Mughals
The Mughals brought with them a rich heritage. Akbar, Shahjahan, and Jahangir invited skilled craftsmen from all over the world. The Mughals introduced methods like inlay work, glass engraving, carpet weaving, brocades, enamelling etc.
Colonial rule
British Invasion and struggles with exposure to foreign market. Craftsmen had to compete with machine-made goods and their quality suffered a lot.
Self-reliance movement
Swadeshi movement focused on the need of Indian craftsmen and for maintaining the ancient craft tradition.
Post-Independence
After Independence, Handicrafts board was set up to look into languishing crafts.
Materials Matters
Insight 18
Why materials matters in craft ?
Material/things people encounter, interact and use to make something out of it, seeing their own identities in them
Material can be the identity of the craft
Choice of material is dependent on makers and buyers need and availability
Material dictates the form
Properties of material determines the end product
Material adds aesthetic value
Materials determines longevity
Material determines persona of customers
Materials depends on duration of the process itself & vice versa
Material determines the value of the product
Material properties determine the function
Material hierarchy determine social hierarchy and vice versa
Connection of artisan to material
Religious, cultural and traditional relevance of material
Availability of material depended on geography, region, climate/season
Availability of material depended on geography, region, climate/season
Insight 19
A glimpse to handicraft based on materials in india?
Metal craft
Brass lamps
Metal Handicrafts
Dhokra Handicrafts
Brass Handicraft
Weaponry
Bell metal handicraft
Bronze Figurines
Silver filigree
Jewellery
Candle making
Scented candle
Bone and horn handicraft
Ivory craft
Paper handicrafts
Paper mache craft
Shell handicraft
Sea shell craft
Fiber craft
Jute handicrafts
Coir work
Banana fibre handicrafts
Palm leaf work
Gourd craft
Coconut craft
Beetle nut carving
Root products
Glass handicraft
Bead craft
Leather handicrafts
Musical instruments
Leather puppets
Vessels/bottles
Tilla juttis
Clay
Terracotta
Pottery
Clay handicrafts
Cow dung toys
Lippan- clay relief work
Tortoise shell craft
Lac handicrafts
Stone carving
Marble handicrafts
Rock Handicrafts
Painting
Folk paintings
Enamel handicraft
Mural paintings
Wood crafts
Wooden cutlery
Sandal Wood carving
Bamboo mat
Cane handicrafts
Bamboo Handicrafts
Wooden toys
Textile
Painted scrolls
Painted textiles
Dhurrie weaving
Crochet work
Carpet making
Silk spinning
Weaving or embroidery handicraft
Lace or zari handicrafts
Tie and dye
Lace making
Insight 20
Craft practices with the lens of age old Caste system
Post vedic period, most artisans were from Shudra caste
Weaver, potters, metal-smiths, jewellers, stone workers, and carpenters : clean shudras and allowed to associate with temple related activities
Artisans associated with 'unclean' occupations such as the curing of hides and leather work were considered polluting and were made to live in peripheries of cities and villages
Social status has almost remained unchanged in the traditional caste hierarchy of Hindu society.
Insight 21
Evolution of material
The availability of raw material/resources
Change in purpose of the end product
Technological advancements in material
Required aesthetics of the craft product
Change in the market consumption pattern
Availability of synthetic material
Government rules and regulations on the material and material extraction
Consumer needs and preferences
Cost of the extracting the material
Skills of the craftsman
Experimental approach towards material
Availability of cheaper alternative
Artisans
Insight 22
Parameters that define the type of artisans
Type of location of the artisan
Rural
Semi-urban
Urban
Employment status of craftsperson
Self Employed
Wage worker
Co-operative member/ Self help groups
Part-time artisan
Seasonal artisan
Classification based on skill set
Skilled master Craftsmen
Craftsmen
Apprentice
Type of artisanal group
Textile artisans
Cane, fibre, bamboo workers
Metal artisans
Leather workers
Potters
Wood artisans
Jewellers
Where craftsperson sell
Village (local)
Urban (local)
Export (international)
Depending on the sales channel
Bigger brands
Government emporiums
Co-operative system
E-Commerce or digital platforms
Village haat or premises or markets
Jajmani system - patron giving system
Insight 23
Life of a craftsperson
Interpersonal relationships in family
Responsibility of family and craft work
Knowledge transfer among family/community
Exposure to craft since childhood
Inclination towards craft to maintain family involvement through generations
Strong attachment on traditional skills and techniques
Close to nature
Finding opportunities for exposure
Unhealthy competition and no collaboration among various craftsmen of the community
Elders among the community are not willing to teach because of rivalry and competition among themselves
Younger generations uninterested to pursue
Migration for better opportunities through craft
Balancing craft as a tradition and an earning source
Difficult to maintain a minimum standard of living
Traditional Indian craft grew around religious values, needs of common people and ruling elites
No identity, recognition, value dignity for their work
Artisans are looking for the identity, their name
Production & influx of duplicate items harms livelihood of artisans
A large number of artisans have moved to urban centres in search of low, unskilled employment in industry
They face struggle in investing in the business
Less income from craft sector
Low/No access to knowledge based economy
Informal skills and knowledge systems
Less control over the wages paid to the artisans
For craftsmen, the driving motivation
Initial stage - Money
Later stage -Doing what they enjoy, with the help of design knowledge
Craftsperson has sufficient capability in taking decisions on designs
Expecting assistance from market/ middleman (“This is what we make. Please buy it” )
Insight 24
Ethics in craft sector
Use of ethical material
Authenticity of designs
Right techniques
Ethical ways of selling
Respect for others' products
Insight 25
Caste system
Post vedic period, most artisans were from Shudra caste
Weaver, potters, metal-smiths, jewellers, stone workers, and carpenters : clean shudras and allowed to associate with temple related activities
Artisans associated with 'unclean' occupations such as the curing of hides and leather work were considered polluting and were made to live in peripheries of cities and villages
Social status has almost remained unchanged in the traditional caste hierarchy of Hindu society.
Community Living
Insight 26
Types of communities
Farming communities
Symbiotic relationship between farming and pastoral communities
Caste system led to the division in labour
Interdependent
Fulfilling the needs of people around them
Each craftsmen specializes in certain craft
Around river basins- Practice mainly into agriculture
In turn led to different types of crafts along with service craftsmen like goldsmith, blacksmith etc.
Due to division, amount of time spent on craft is higher, hence better, finer quality of work, more involvement in the work
Pastoral society
Migrate during different seasons
Dessert regions Western India
Extreme weather conditions - people found ways in investing things like fine embroidery
Tribal society
Self sufficient
Self sustained
Women are into farming, weaving, house work ,jungle work with less time put into the craft is less, hence the lower quality of work
Mostly in the North East India
Handicrafts and Indian Economy
Insight 27
Craft's contribution to Indian Economy
According to an ASSOCHAM (Associated Chambers of Commerce of India - Oldest, Leading, largest and Apex Chamber of Commerce and Industry of India)study, India's handicraft exports are likely to cross the Rs 17,000 crore mark by the end of the current fiscal year of 2015-16. It is further expected to cross Rs 24,000 crore by FY 2020-21.
The employment in this sector is 47.42 % women of which 37.11 % come under the backward communities like Scheduled Castes/ Scheduled Tribes.
The textile sector is one of the oldest industries in India estimated around US $150 billion & expected to reach US $250 billion soon. It contributed 7 % of industrial output, 15 % in export earnings & over 2% in GDP of India in 2017 - ‘18.
The sector employs about 7 million people directly and indirectly, which includes many women and people belonging to the weaker sections of the society.
According to UNESCO estimates, in 2013 CCI generated $2.3 trillion (3 percent of world GDP) and 29.5 million jobs (1 percent of the world’s active population).
The countries like USA, UAE, UK, Germany, Netherlands, France, Australia, Japan & Switzerland are among the top countries contributing to exports of handicrafts
Currently, India is leading the exports of handlooms. Handicraft and handloom sector in India are a ₹24,300 crore industry and contributes nearly ₹10,000 crore annually in export earnings.
Insight 28
Craft's support to people
Crafts fulfil everyday needs of people
Employment generation by craft industry
Higher wages accentuate rural-based livelihood opportunities
More opportunities in craft sector for urban people
High potential of employment opportunities for rural people
Insight 29
Craft's contribution to society
Growth in crafts marks cultivation of sensitivity in society
Craft sector has untapped economic potential
Craft address Social inclusion and social fragmentation
Emphasis on self and social relations through the making of physical things
Craft address social inclusion and social fragmentation
Growth in crafts marks cultivation of sensitivity in society
Craft sector has untapped economic potential
Handicraft contributes to GDP
Craft sector minimises the imbalance prevailing in the nation's economy
A key economic sector that promotes tourism
Major source of Foreign exchange in India
Ability to reach global consumers
Banking on the economic potential of creative industries
Provide employment to over 6 million people
Low capital required to start business
Zero-waste/minimum-waste production process
Thrives on cottage based industries
Craft today
Insight 30
Perception of crafts
“Crafts and crafts knowledge are living links to the past and a means of preserving cultural meaning into the future” – Liebl and Roy
Craft is the new luxury
Use of machinery with substantial handwork
Crafts hold economic value
Informal & disorganized handicraft industry
Skills and knowledge of artisans are acquired over generations
Craftsmen seen as picturesque exhibitors instead of entrepreneurs
Craft has social and cultural relevance
Craftwork is labour heavy but a skill to be proud of
Craftwork is connected to the heart and soul of the maker
Craft termed as ‘thankless trade’
Craft sector uplift the regional growth
Considered inferior in developing world
Crafts are primarily utilitarian but evolved to be ornamental in usage
Handicraft depict cultural trait of a specific region/time
Craft products are viewed as precious/exotic species
Craft is considered historic and as heirloom
Customer expectations for cheaper and attractive products
Products viewed as decorative product
Considered inferior in developing world
Lack of information on sustainability among consumers
Insight 31
New practice
New practice Loss of market due to capitalism/globalization
Inability of village crafts to adopt modern selling techniques
Increased competition with other products in market
Changing taste of the customers
Unable to estimate exact cost involved in Craft business
Artisan-consumer relationship is interrupted by traders
Increased dependence on middlemen and traders who pay on piece rate basis
Industrialization has exposed crafts to exploitation
Technology and mechanized volume manufacturing replaced traditional hand production
Mechanized substitute for traditional crafts.
Lack of value centric products.
Decline in apex cooperative societies
Contemporization is unsustainable approach towards marginalized craft producers.
Autonomously decided prices don’t allow uniformity
High cost due to high demand
Insight 32
Craft Locally
Access to urban markets through designers, NGOs and brands
Focus on upliftment of traditional skills
Migration towards other jobs threatens handicraft sector
Handicrafts have the potential to sustain existing and new artisans all over the country
Primary focus of government on crafts sector
Artifacts
Handmade is equal to luxury
Crucial interventions by institutions and organisations with access to new resources
Provides economic sustainability
Part of rituals (marriage, etc.)
Marginalised communities benefiting on innovative business models
Increased demand for craft based products
Insight 33
Factors helping in improvement of craft sector
Special monetary benefits for the artisans provided by government banks
Collateral free loan
Tourism increases customers for handicrafts
Foreign exchange earnings & export
E-commerce is an improved platform for artisans
Putting traditional designs in the luxury market and not change the designs due to the market design
Insight 34
Shift in perspective of craft
Increased demand for craft based products
Purpose and function initiates making of crafts
Indian handicrafts are much preferred in the fashion industry
Large number of new entrants in the craft sector, in recent years
Crafts are primarily utilitarian but evolved to be ornamental in usage
Shift towards eco-tourism, rural and cultural tourism from mass tourism
Increase in contemporization of craft products
Millennials are willing to pay higher price for sustainable goods that promises a better future
Increased value for handmade products
Insight 35
Type of skill or technology used in craft sector
Manual
Machine-made
Semi-automatic
Type of raw material
Procured independently
Supplied by co-operative
Supplied by customer
Lack of quality raw materials
Procuring & processing raw materials
Insight 36
Attributes of craft entrepreneur
Ability to create a balance in family and work.
Understands market trend to inculcate in aesthetics, detailing, finishing and design
Working on a timeline to bring out work
Encourages innovation and independence
Financial empowerment and personal empowerment of artisans.
Become more independent
Crisis management
Decision maker
Develops Professionalism - Working with the family and market
Craftsmanship
The hard earned skills & knowledge are rendered by time
Skills and knowledge of artisans are acquired over generations
Traditional Craftsmanship knowledge is passed down generations
Craftsmanship is a form-giving activity
Insight 37
Why should we preserve / revive craft practices?
To preserve and keep the cultural heritage alive
Crafts are a part of our country's identity and heritage
Craft skills are an national resource that should be preserved
Craft sector is crucial for the country's economy
New skill education of younger generation and upgrading skills of existing artisans
Craft practices promote circular and sustainable use of resources and product development
Crafts are becoming more relevant now because of the shift towards the use of sustainable products and lifestyles
To encourage and support locally produced crafts that help cut down carbon footprint
Crafts are a great substitute for unsustainable, man made products
Crafted products have a sense of human-ness that machine-made products don't have
Crafts are revived and also reinvented
Millennial and the newer generations connect with craft based products
Helps uplift and promote the welfare of the artisanal communities
Crafts provide a livelihood for a lot of people in the country
Products and services tailored for the locals by the locals
Attitude shift of millennial towards community centric employment opportunities
Craft sector has a great employment generation potential
Millennial who are focused on community development, grassroots level development
Emergence of new types of craft forms
Community based crafts
Individual and studio crafts
Household / Do-It-Yourself crafts
Merging new age technologies with artisanal skills.
Insight 38
Reasons younger generation do not want to take up craft as occupation
Skills of artisan
Profession that favours patience and precision
Inaccessibility/difficulty to access the funds allotted to crafts and the sector
Poor entrepreneurial skills of artisans
Low penetration of technology in craft sector
Handicraft industry struggled to keep up through foreign market after British arrived
Higher Indirect Taxes, Power and Interest Rates
No resources put into studying and understanding the market and consumer needs
Poor financial literacy of artisans to continue working as craftspeople
Various financial incentives, benefits and reliefs are extended to encourage the organised sector to set up industries
Preferential access to credit, raw material and infrastructure is extended to the organised sector
External support and opportunities
Weakening of social structures and community spirit
Younger generation seek other job opportunities because of the low incomes in craft sector
The complex procedures and criteria of gov. schemes makes the process to strenuous for the artisans to access
Poor utilization of government schemes
Difficulty in getting trade related membership
Current work environments
Inadequate medical facilities or healthy work environments are not provided
Working and Body postures causes Chronic pain for the artisans
Existing work environment: The artisans are mostly reduced to labourers and not creative skills men
Exploitation of artisans by middlemen by paying fraction of fair wages
Lack of recognition for the craftsmanship
Most brands/designers treat craftsmen as mechanical laborers
Occupational hazards
Physical hazards - Light, noise, heat, vibration, height
Chemical hazards - external gases, acids, chemicals etc.
Ergonomic hazards - based on body activity and postures
Introducing safety equipment that doesn't hinder the work of the craftsperson
Providing easy and inexpensive access to healthcare facilities
Making the raw material and extraction non hazardous
Making craft processes safe and non hazardous
Understanding craftsman’s Idea of safety
Government / institutional support should focus on providing safety equipment
Educating and raising awareness about use of safety equipment
Implementing and encouraging the use of Safety equipment
Providing easy and inexpensive access to healthcare facilities
Scope of work
Working in the craft sector is not aspirational or prestigious
Markets for crafts are decreasing because Knock-off products are cheaper and quicker to make and threaten the crafts
Many crafts have lost their relevance with the consumer
Diminishing demand for indigenous art & crafts
Organised sectors have large funds and investments in product and design development, market research to understand and mould consumer psychology
Aspirations
Effect of globalization
Increase in western practices
Increase in technology culture
Influence of other cultures
Influence of media
Urbanization
More job opportunities in the urban areas
Parents want their kids to move out of the craft sector
Aspirations to go to school and college and get a degree
People want jobs that give them prestige in the society
Increased competition in terms of making money
Insight 39
Needs of the sector
Consumers
Audience specific crafts
Product range for general audience
Artisans
Formal training to educate artisan community
Need of welfare support for the artisans
Need for recognition and solutions for mental health problems
Need for understanding craftsmen’s idea of safety
Product
Classification of handicrafts based on purpose
Differentiation for genuine handcrafted premium products
Need of Continuous Quality Improvement
Business
Need of long term handicrafts-based business
Need for upgradation in design skills and understanding of global aspects
Need of access to up-to-date market information
Need of improved feedback mechanism (to make craft market ready)
Need of access to internet linkage
Need for understanding and making use of media to ensure commercial success
Governance
Need strict measures to prevent misuse of handmade products
Need for improvement in livelihoods and socio‐economic condition of the artisans
Vital stakeholders should be part of meetings that address improvement of handicraft production
Strategic design innovation in craft sector should integrate social, economic, ecological and cultural aspects
Requirement of effective financial and administrative models
Input from the artisan in formation of policy
Documentation techniques vary for each craft
External inputs
Cultural mapping to understand creative sectors
Collaborations with designers can help contemporise and widen the craft vocabulary for the artisans
Greater need to understand and develop existing handicraft producer clusters.
Need of documentation and conservation of traditional knowledge and skill
Greater need for clear and credible guidance about products that are eco- friendly.
Work-space and infrastructure
Need for craftsmen friendly hazard control and measures
Need for organized working environment convenient to craftsmen
Help to those affected by agricultural activities
Change due to Decentralized and unorganized sector of Indian economy
Insight 40
Craft mobility and migration
Migration of communities to find better work opportunities
Inadequate promotion and use of certifications
Infrastructural Bottlenecks
Material transportation and transfer of skill
Moving to different parts of country due to geographical adversities
By royal patronage
Less number of authorized GI certified craft
Diminishing demand for art & crafts
Insight 41
Business models
Entrepreneurship model vs cooperative model
Entrepreneurship model works where there is a market with choices, available readily, back up choices/ support systems to fall back to i.e. when there are more than 1 takers and suppliers
Decentralized model used in Kutch
Cooperative model can take the shocks of less takers and suppliers or that of rejections
Global Market
Insight 42
Craft in global market
Newer channel of trade
Increased export opportunities
Higher demand in the global market
Major source of foreign exchange
Evolution of different craft forms due to foreign and domestic trade
Cross cluster influence
Intervention of design due to global visibility
Media facilitates crafts into new markets
Newer channel of trade
No standard definition of handicrafts
Increased job opportunity globally
Promotes tourism
Compliance to International Standards is emerging as a key determinant of the competitiveness of handicraft exports
Nature and Craft
Insight 43
Nature & environment
Climate helps to grow the crafts
Healthy ecosystem
Responsible for resources of craft communities
Healthy way of living
Use of naturally available materials
Geography helps in providing wide range of materials
Backbone of craft
Inspiration for crafts
Triggers concept of sustainability
Zero waste production
Insight 44
Negative impacts of human on environment
Techniques of manufacturing
Causing air and water pollution
Pollution by the use of toxic materials
Following processes that release air pollutants
Leather tanning and clay crafts cause significant air and water pollution.
Harmful impacts of mining extraction
Greater use of petroleum based chemicals in manufacturing process
Production of non degradable waste
Improper craft product disposable system
Extinction of resources because of overuse
Irresponsible use of resources
Excessive use of water in the manufacturing process
Excessive cutting of trees
Excessive animal poaching for leather
Excessive animal poaching animal bones and horns
Excessive Curing of wood in river
Excessive extraction of clay from river basins
Excessive use of non-renewable resources
Unsustainable natural resource depletion
Craft products have started substituting natural and organic material with synthetics and plastics
Insight 45
Negative Impacts of environment on craft
Communities shifted due to natural calamities
Adverse effect of climate change on process of crafts
Extinction of resources by time
Insight 46
General issues faced in the living environment
Limited access to quality raw material
Unorganized system of transport and storing goods
Disadvantages of geographical location of craft cluster
Issues around crafts
Insight 47
General problems faced by craftsmen
High excise
Low subsidy
Lack of access to raw materials
High cost of raw materials
Obsolete tools & equipment
Unorganized sector
Lack of government interventions
Lack of awareness of government schemes
Lack of motivation to continue craft
Government negligence
Government schemes are not properly reaching to craftsmen
Unfavorable labor laws
Lack of Funding
Limited accessibility of advanced technology
Dilemma of choosing education vs craft practice
Primary level education still an aspiration
The artisans do not have awareness about the new technologies
Lack of recognition for artisans
Low pay
Lack of challenging mind
Ignorance of artisans over quality of work
Involvement of child labour
No life savings post retirement
Health Issues with craftsperson
Inadequate medical facilities
Negligence on available health and life insurance
Need for understanding various types of health problems
Involves numerous risk factors in terms of injuries and self medications
Artisans do not take preventive measures while handling dyes and chemicals which leads to Infections (Short term convenience over long term Health)
Awareness of the side effects of the material
Health and hygiene issues, Slums are increasing, alot of trafficking
Insight 48
Problems faced by craftsmen in market
Unaware of trade membership
The competition with big brands is huge and difficult to survive
Competition with machine made products
Lack of management skills
Lack of marketing skills
Lack of formal education
Lack of access to export credit
Lack of modern managerial skills
Rapid evolution of consumer preferences
Inadequate advertising & promotion of crafts products
Limited marketing & export avenues
Limited linkages
Lack of knowledge about occupational safety provisions
No knowledge of proper distribution channels
Unable to reach a large audience
Lack of negotiating power of the artisans for improved business and livelihood
Shipping problems
Air freight problems
Lack of information about exports
Lack of awareness of future potential
Lack of knowledge about latest design
Exploitation by the middle men
Loss of patron-client business network
No organized data exists on domestic sale of handicrafts
Lack of knowledge about current market demands
Limited market monitoring due limited access to advanced technology
Lack of market feedback
Vulnerable to exploitation
Insight 49
Reasons for crafts decline
Deterioration of health of artisans
Occupational hazards
Invasion of Chinese products
Unhealthy competition in the market
Change in mindset of the people
Lack of empathy and sympathy
Lack of deeper connect to the sector
Change in context/ culture
Modern living
Increase in tech culture
Utilitarian driven concepts
Change in mindset of the people
Cultural decline
Set benchmark
Royal preferences were benchmark and pinnacle
Birth - death cycle
Lack of long run development strategies
Shift of community due to natural calamities
Unavailability of raw material
Change in atmospheric conditions
High price of material in the market
Invention in new materials
Socio-political factors
Political churning in the region
High political influence in northern region
Lesser political influence in southern region
Demography
Wider demography in northern region
Migration to the region
Availability of variety of resources
Wider community with similar culture in southern region
Insight 50
Concerns of the craft sector
Poor government planning
Increasing technological obsolescence
Disappearing markets
Unavailability of resources
Craftspeople shifting to newer and profitable work sectors
Increased migration of the craftspeople to urban regions
Insight 51
Issues in Craft production
Higher impact of packaging on sale of product
Highly fluctuating sales taxes because of no formal standard
Higher impact of price on sale of product
Higher impact of colour on sale of product
High number of manpower to achieve a high production rate
Automation of production may hamper craft well-being
Identity crisis due to flattening the style
Lack of quality benchmark
Undervaluing the product
Slow production, increasing prices in raw materials worry bamboo sector
Knock-off products are cheaper and quicker to make
Identity of craft suffers because of fake products
Highly labour intensive exploitative craft practice still exists
Knock-off crafts threaten the craft itself
Gender role issues in each sector
In terms of involvement
In terms of payment
In terms of exposure
Unorganized production
Poor packaging
Lack of design inputs
Lack of clear understanding & design element improvement
Time and energy consuming
Insight 52
Problems between craftsmen and consumer (customers)
Customers are confused due to lack of standardization of craft products
Inadequate knowledge of consumer purchasing patterns
Crafts suffer from charity syndrome
Communication gap between artisan and customer
No platform for the artisans to share their problem
Existence of stigma of inferiority
Lack of understanding about customer needs
Lack of information on sustainability among consumers
Information dissemination creating a no information state for customers
Consumer don’t understand what goes into the art
Insight 53
Reasons for consumer shift from artisanal goods
Quality
The absence of brand name, value and therefore perceived quality of the craft based products
Shelf-life: Consumers want more durable and long lasting products products
Style
Style: Aesthetics of the craft are more traditional than contemporary
Media
Attractive media campaigns are used to to sustain loyalty to create demand for new ones
The aggressive marketing and advertising strategies used by the organised industrial sector have played a role in influencing consumer choice
Cost
Cost: Plurality of choice for the consumers. Easy availability of cheaper goods
Usage
Utility: Craft products are mostly obsolete in terms of utility and are irrelevant for the newer consumers lifestyles
Insight 54
Issues related to craft sector
Lack of explorations with material and techniques among artisans.
Similarity in designs copied from internet
Craftspeople are unable to realize or recognize the depth, value and impact in the ecosystem
Craft might be unable to keep up with rapid pace of urbanization
Inaccessibility of funds allotted to crafts
The hidden politics
Lack of exposure for the craftsman
NGOs - have helped them creating Self Help Groups
They have not been able to take them to next level
Insight 55
Problem of Data Management
No systematic database of existing certification agencies along with cost implications.
No comprehensive or updated data on artisans
No proper registration of artisan
Lack of knowledge on technological development affect productivity
No comprehensive and updated data on socio economic situation of artisan
No comprehensive and updated data on craft
Insight 56
Work-space dynamics
Existence of idle instruments in household
Poor infrastructure
Craftsman’s Idea of safety
Inefficient productions methods
ill-suited workplace standards
Non ergonomic equipment
Lack of safety and health standards
Effect of Noise on Hearing & Oxidative Stress among the workers in certain craft industries
Chronic pain caused due to body postures
Nausea, Fatigue, lower back and neck pain common in female artisans
Musculoskeletal Disorders (MSD's) due to working postures & long working hours
Designers & Brands
Insight 57
Expectation of designers from artisans
Designers expect them to multitask
Designer try to impose their skills on artisans
Introduction of newer knowledge by designer into the system expecting artisans to understand
Expecting artisans to produce industrial level work
Insight 58
Problems faced by designers
Difference in understanding the craft system
Understanding the timing of working in the system
Ego clashes between the designer and the artisans
Initial rejection on new ideas by artisans
Comparison between the skills of both parties
Understanding the lifestyle of the artisans
Difficulty to adjust the lifestyles
Plagiarizing their skills
Trespassing their area
Difficulty to reach in the same platform
Understanding in terms of skills both parties skill
Understanding in terms of roles
Insight 59
What designers do in this sector?
Designers engage with local communities, create objects using the age-old knowledge.
Works towards reviving, restoring, celebrating and marketing these handicrafts.
Develop innovative ideas through understanding the importance of preserving traditional crafts.
Redefine existing local craft traditions and artisan communities by providing design,
Designers provide creative collaboration
Designers make the artisans familiar about technology.
Design can intervene in making innovative crafts viable in mainstream production and retail markets.
Design interventions widen the scope of artisans utility
Designers works towards reducing environmental hazards
Unification of craft forms into single brand “Handmade in India”
Insight 60
What can designers do?
Constantly believe that Designer and artisan are equal
Swap roles to understand the system
Intervene in smaller levels
Provide time for the artisans to adapt to new ideas
Deep rooted understanding artisans problems and try to solve it
Provide time for the artisans to adapt to new ideas
Provides exposure to the artisans
Make artisans understand their own value
Insight 61
Things the Designer should be mindful of
Choice of products need to be according to the material’s properties and craftsmen’s familiarity
As designer one has to look into,
Social empowerment
Social status
Higher dignity
Designers are nobody to influence craftspeople of their own decisions on the craft
Understand the difference between “ Craft by tradition” vs “ Craft by technique”(hobby crafts)
Non industrial - Those that industry cannot offer in today’s way of life
Scaling should not be the vision
One has to realise the potential of artisans that they can design like designers
Spending valuable time with the cluster during the study.
Knowing the history and reasons of the particular craft.
Understand the natural scale of each craft, make it the strength, customize each piece
Cannot change - Practice, values, indigenous knowledge systems, processes, materials used(for their inherent properties)
Using material in the right way
Designing the product according to the artisans skill the base.
Few exhibitions make the customer understand the cultural context of the craft, the efforts that go into it
Execution capability along with value adding skills.
Negatives
Adapts western culture
Designers do not want to get hands on
Designers are selfish
Very few designers understand the clusters
Insight 62
Co-Creation with craftsmen
Co learning
More innovation and helpful design
Value based aesthetics - support crafts with this, instead of just visual aesthetics
Centre of social innovation project should be the craftsmen (with them, for them) and not the craft form - “Co-creation, Co-Design”
Bring in exposure to sales and designs to craftsmen
“Need of the hour” - collaborate accordingly
Understand what do the craftsmen think the future can be
Looking at artisans as equals, collaborative work, equal knowledge partner
Make craftspeople aware of potential of design
Mutual understanding between craftsperson and designer
Design understanding the material will help in co-working
Insight 63
7 R (Tools designers use)
Reinvent
Restore
Renew
Revive
Re-imagine
Reuse
Re-purpose
Insight 64
Role of Brands
Value addition to the product
In terms of quality
In terms of design
Combine craft with trend
Convey story behind craft
Cater a particular group of customer
Contemporaries crafts
Promoting traditional handicraft that are in danger of dying
Provide a unique selection of products
Creating a platform nationally and globally
Create micro entrepreneurs out of these artisans by increasing their visibility and wages
Promoting traditional handicraft
Present products nationally and globally
Protecting the heritage
Stakeholder & Resources
Insight 65
List of Major Stakeholders
Museums
Export houses
Users
Traders
Designers
Craftsmen
Middlemen
Influencers
Local Business
Trusts and Funders
Entrepreneurs
Craft enthusiast
Collectors
Social Innovators
Shopkeeper
Corporate
Government policy makers
Artisans
Researchers
NGOs
Insight 66
Studios working on/with crafts
Anantaya by Ayush (designer) and Geetanjali (architect)
Sylvn Studio : Bandana Jain
Vaishali S. by Vaishali Shadangule
Bordoloi by Ronjon Bordoloi
Anu Tandon Vieira - Founder of The "Retyrement Plan"
Sangaru design objects pvt. ltd by Sandeep Sangaru
Insight 67
List of brands
Khara Kapas
Sampada
Master piece crafts
Aaraa by Avantika
Ramnarayan blue art pottery
eCraftIndia
iTokri
Triveni Chikan Arts
Bandhej
Good Earth
The Khadi Cult
Fab India
Hastavem
Jayepore
Insight 68
List of E-commerce platforms
DivineHaat.com
Trade India
The India Craft House
iCraft
AuthIndia
Alibaba.com
Coppre
Amazon Karigar
eMithilaHaat
Hands of India
Artyowl
Okhai
Chanderiyaan
Etsy
itokri
Unfactory
GetKraft.com
Lal10
QTrove
Indiamart
ecraftindia
Saffronart
KashmirBox
Engrave
Dastkar Andhra
emithilahaat
Gaatha
Insight 69
Craft exhibitions in India
Surajkund Crafts Mela, New Delhi
Indian international Trade Fair, New Delhi
Dilli Haat, New Delhi
Shilpgram Fair, Udaipur
Crafts Bazaar, Kolkata
Crafts Vision, Jaipur
Dhrupad Mela, Varanasi
Cottage Handicrafts Textile Emporium, Jaipur
Indian Handicraft and Gifts Fair (IHGF), Delhi
Rakhiand Handicrafts Exhibition, Mumbai
India international Leather Fair, Chennai
Tourist Fair, Chennai
SIRPl's Handicraft Exhibition, Chennai
Times Art and Design Trade Fair, Mumbai
Food and Cultural Festival, Goa
Insight 70
Educational Institutes
Indira Gandhi National Open University (IGNOU)
The Handloom School
C-DAC: Centre for Development of Advanced Computing, India
Research Design and Technical Development Centres, (Ministry of Textiles)
NID- National Institute of Design
International Centre For Indian Crafts (ICIC), (NID)
NIFT - National Institute of Fashion Technology
Indian Institute of Technology
Centre for Regional Design and Technical Development
Indian Packaging Institute (Ministry of Commerce)
Mahatma Gandhi Institute for Rural Industrialization under MSME
Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India, Ahmedabad
Development Institute, Allahabad
Bamboo & Cane Development Institute at Agartala (Tripura), (Ministry of Textiles)
Insight 71
Training Institutes
Sapti ( Stone artisan craft institute)
National Skill Training Institute under Directorate General of Training
All India Cottage Industries Board
Kala raksha Vidyalaya, Kutch
Industrial training institutes
Center for cultural resource and training
Metal Handicrafts Service Centre (Society), (Ministry of Textiles)
Somaya Kala Vidya
Barefoot College
All India Handicraft Board
Handicraft and Handloom Export Corporation of India
Insight 72
Ministries that support craft sector
Ministry of women and child development- MWCD
Ministry of textile-MOT
Ministry of skill development and Entrepreneurship -MSDE
Ministry of Micro,small and medium Enterprise -MSME
Ministry of minority affairs-MOMA
Ministry of rural development- MORD
Ministry of power
Ministry of culture
Ministry of tourism
Ministry of development of North-east region - MDONER
Insight 73
Government Craft organisation/ Bodies
Dilli Haat (Delhi tourism and transportation development corporation (DTTDC))
State Handicrafts Development Corporations (SHDC)
Directorate general of Training
Skill India
Ekamra Haat in Bhubaneshwar (Works under Orrissa state government)
Council for the Advancement of People’s Action and Rural Technology (CAPART), (Ministry of Rural Development.)
Beauro of Indian Standards (BIS)
NSIC (National Small Industries Corporation).Under MSME
Khadi and Village Industries Commission KVIC (MSME)
District Industrial Centre (DIC)
Gramin Vikash Bank
The National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD), (Ministry of Finance.)
The Small Industries Development Bank of India (SIDBI), Department of Financial Services, Government of India
NCDPD - National center for design and product development (by Ministry of Textiles)
Ministry of Textiles
IICT - Indian institute of carpet technology
Metal Handicrafts Service Center (MHSC)
Development Commissioner Handicrafts [DC(H)]
Research Design and Technical Development Centres
MHSC - Metal Handicrafts Service Center
COHANDS - Council of Handicraft Development Corporation
Export Promotion Council for Handicraft (EPCH)
CEPC - carpet export promotion council
HHEC- Handicrafts and handloom export corporation of india ltd
BCDI - Bamboo and cane development institute
Sampoorn
Power Grid Corporation of India
Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH)
All India Handicraft Board (Ministry of Commerce and Industry)
Insight 74
List of CSRs
Power Grid Corporation Of India Ltd
Oil And Natural Gas Corporation Ltd (ONGC)
Vedanta Ltd
HDFC Bank Ltd
Wipro Ltd
Toyota Kirloskar Motor India
HCL Technologies Limited
Axis Bank
Hindalco Industries Ltd
Ambuja Cement Ltd
Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL)
Reliance Industries
ITC Ltd
Indian Oil Corporation Ltd (IOCL)
National Thermal Power Corporation Ltd (NTPC)
Hindustan Zinc Ltd
Bharat Petroleum Corporation Ltd.
Tata Motors Ltd
Tata Chemicals Ltd
Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd
Infosys Ltd
Insight 75
NGO and private organisations
Kala Madhyam In Bangalore
NGO dedicated to supporting and empowering traditional (folk and tribal) artists and artisans
Industree Foundation (Pvt LTD)
Sasha Association for craft Producers (SASHA)
All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA)
Craft Village
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Self Employed Women's Association (SEWA)
Sadhna A Women’s Handicraft Enterprise
DASRA
Gramshree
Khazana in Taj Group of Hotels (An initiative of Taj group)
Rangasutra (Community-owned craft company)
MESH in Hyderabad and Delhi (Indian organisation practicing Fair Trade with disabled and leprosy affected crafts artisans, for their rehabilitation.
Craft Council Of India (CCI)
Delhi Craft Council (DCC)
Paramparik Karigar
CIDCO Kalagram- Mumbai
Insight 76
Global Organisations
International Monetary Fund (IMF)
World Fair Trade Organization
World Tourism Organization (UNWTO)
United Nations Development Program (UNDP)
UNESCO
Culture as core for social development
UNESCO helps and encourages the study of the creative industries sector
Organisations under UNESCO give marketing, branding support for local products and handicrafts and helps create a local identity.
UNESCO encourages local institutions to support handicraft businesses and enhance marketing services that currently exist.
International funding organizations
Grassroots Business Fund
Rothschild Foundation
Aid to Artisans (Washington, DC)
The Ford Foundation (American private foundation)
Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry FICCI
Insight 77
Indian funding organisations
HUDCO
Sir Dorab Tata Trust
Aavishkar
INTACH
Villgro Innovations
Index-C
Recognition & Certifications
Insight 78
International certification and awards
UNESCO
UNESCO Award of Excellence for Handicrafts
History and Development of the UNESCO Award of Excellence for Handicrafts
Insight 79
National Certification and awards
Craft Sector
GI Tag
Craftmark
Hand loom mark
Wool mark
MS Act and License Certificate under MFR Act to the fishing vessels
Development Commissioner Handicrafts
Shilp Guru Award for the Year
National award of the year
National Merit Certificate
Craft Village
For Artisans
Pioneers in Indian Crafts
Craft Designer of the Year (Gen-Next)
Master Artisan of the year
Craft Icon of the Year
Craft woman of the year
Craftsman of the year
For Organization
Craft organisation in sustainable development of craft
Craft Brand of the year
Contribution of Public Sector Employee towards Crafts
Craft Brand-BRAC
Craft organisation of the year
Craft Institute/Academy of the Year
Insight 80
Geographical indications in India
Certification of genuine/ authentic/ quality hand craft traditions and processes
United nations conference on trade and development ( UNCTAD ) study has revealed that GI registered agricultural products can fetch a price premium of 10-15 percent where as for non-agricultural products it would be to the tune of 5-19 percent.
If harnessed properly, trade gains from enhanced sale of these GI goods would provide tremendous socio economic benefits to the producers of such goods.
GI is one of the six trade related Intellectual property right of the World Trade Organization
WTO provides comprehensive and effective protection to goods registered in GI
Number of issues and concerns remains in the context of harnessing the potential commercial benefits out of GI registrations in India.
( A consumer survey undertaken in the European union in 1990 ) found that 40 percent of the consumers could pay a premium of 10 percent for origin guaranteed products ( WTO 2004 )
Harnessing trade benefits to be enjoyed by the owners of the IPR ( Intellectual property rights )
GI is beneficial to the owners as they can safeguard their product from unauthorized Commercial use
GI acts as a mechanism that helps producers differentiate their products from competing products in the market and enable producers to build a reputation and goodwill around their products that will fetch a premium price.
India, in compliance with the TRIPS agreement of the WTO, enacted ‘ The GI of goods ( registration + protection ) Act on 15 Sep 2003
Violation against GI in different ways is a crime punishment.
Plagiarism and unfair competition is to be handled through GI
There are clearly articulated for the exception list that would be mistaken for plagiarism
To be in conformity with international law, the Indian parliament enacted the GI goods ( registration of protection) Act 1999 to prescribe uniform standards for the protection of geographical indication.
Section 11 of the Act provides that only association of persons, products organization or authority established by or under the law can apply for registration of GI
Insight 81
Intellectual property
Harnessing trade benefits to be enjoyed by the owners of the IPR ( Intellectual property rights )
IP can protect traditional handicraft from unauthorized replication.
Unhealthy competition among craftsmen leads to copying or using similar designs as the tradition is for everyone in community and not a single person's idea
Registration preserves exclusive right to use marks/identities on goods & services
Crafts IP can be registered for reputation/style, shape/design, skills/knowledge
IP rights help preserve artisans’ & handicraft organizations’ interests
Government Schemes and Policies
Insight 82
Objectives
Government policies, NGOs, Organisations plan for long term profit and benefits for crafts but not anything directly for craftsmen. Craftsmen look for short term profit and quick benefits instead.
Focus on improving the livelihoods and socio‐economic condition of the practitioners of handicrafts
Facilitate growth of crafts-based businesses and to make them economically viable
Create necessary and greater opportunities toward capacity development and excellence, business growth, market promotion and welfare support for the artisans
Develop effective models of financial and administrative structures to facilitate ease of doing business and to create and support handicrafts-based business development and growth over the long term
Create a differentiation for genuine handcrafted premium products
Focus on documentation and conservation of traditional knowledge and skills
Insight 83
Schemes and policies related to Textile and handloom
North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS), Ministry of Textiles
To develop the textile industry in the North East region of the country
Scheme for Textile Industry Workers’ Accommodation (STIWA)
To provide safe, adequate and conveniently located accommodation for textile and apparel industry workers
Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP) with world-class infrastructure facilities
Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), Ministry of Textiles
To train the masses
Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS)
Handloom Weavers Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS)
National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) was set up in 1983
To promote raw materials
Handicraft and Handloom Export Corporation (HHEC ) of India Ltd was set up 1958
To promote export
Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS)
All India Handloom Fabrics Marketing Cooperative Society was set up in 1955
National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP)
Ministry of Textiles and National Institute of Open Schooling (NIOS)
Insight 84
Schemes related to clusters
Comprehensive Handicrafts Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS)
Mega Cluster Scheme
Cluster Development Scheme
Cluster Development Programmes (CDPs)
Insight 85
Subsidies
Shri Vajpayee Bankabel Yojana
A scheme for providing financial assistance to the craftsmen of Cottage Industries through Nationalised Banks, Co-operative banks, Public sector Banks or Private Banks.
MUDRA scheme
Loan provision
6%interest
Interest Subsidy Scheme
Credit-linked Capital Subsidy Scheme (CLCSS)
Dattopant Thengadi Artisan Interest Subsidy Scheme
Insight 86
Direct benefits to artisans
Rajiv Gandhi Shilpi Swasthya Bima Yojna
Financially enabling the artisan community to access health care
Support to artisans in indigent circumstances
To support artisans in their old age
Credit guarantee scheme
To reduce the problem of collateral security and remove hindrance to the flow of credit
Interest subvention scheme
Facilitating credit access for handicraft artisans, 7% interest subvention subject to actual shall be available for artisans, max benefits Rs. 1,00,000 for three years
Issue of identity cards ad creation of data base
Identified artisans will be given photo identity card Aadhar linked database for artisans to enable better targeting and monitoring
Shilp guru award, National award, National merit certificate for outstanding contribution in Handicraft
Financial assistance for supply of tools safety equipment, looms and finance
Insight 87
Insurances
Bima Yojana for Handicrafts Artisans
Provides life insurance protection
WHIS Weavers Health Insurance Scheme
Pradhan Mantri Jeevan Jyoti Bima Yojana (PMJJBY)
Pradhan Mantri Suraksha Bima Yojana (PMSBY)
Mahatma Gandhi Bunker Bima Yojana (MGBBY) (for those in the age group of 51 – 59 years)
Insight 88
Negative points about policies and schemes
Choking of cooperative credit lines due to overdue debt
Issues in implementation and uptake of schemes
The access to schemes is hampered because of complex procedures and criteria
Lack of awareness on the importance of certifications among smaller producers
Information gap between local administration and actual beneficiaries
Poor utilization of government schemes
Complex procedures and criteria to avail government schemes
Financial support not available for basic lifestyle
Inadequate credit availability
Lack of fund/capital
Limited access to fund and loans
Difficulties in financing handicraft business
Lack of programs that strengthen the artisans ecosystem
No system of legal & promotional activity for transferring ownership.
Poor institutional framework
Not recognized as a separate profession under any policy
Lack of well developed policies
Clusters are not identified and statistics are not available
Very less coordination among government bodies, and private players.
Incapability of artisans to be part of marketing decisions because the decision making is at the government level.
Informal & disorganized handicraft industry
Insight 89
Existing solutions for women empowerment
Self Help Groups are exclusively run by women artisans
Tool kit distribution to women artisan
Five National Awards and five National Merit Certificates have been reserved exclusively for women artisans
13 women Shilip Gurus
189 women national awards till date
Ministry of Textiles holds special marketing events for women artisans on International Women’s Day
Integrated skill development scheme
Reimbursement of 75% of the fee for women to encourage learning opportunities in IGNOU and NIOS
IGNOU: Indira Gandhi National Open University
NIOS: National Institute of Open Schooling
Craft tourism empowers rural women to promote gender equality
Insight 90
Scheme classification
Old age pension schemes
Scholarship schemes for ST students
Widow pension schemes
Transport subsidy scheme
National family Benefit scheme
Education loan schemes
Social welfare schemes
Roles of Stakeholders
Insight 91
Activities of CSRs
Permits companies to engage in projects
But not to genuinely social empowerment
Under the terms of Companies Act, preference must be given by companies in its CSR activities to local areas and the areas where the company operate
Supposedly for social benefits
Helps in fetching funds for the organization
CSR Helps Disseminate information more efficiently
2014 April Licence for activities
Spend at least 2% of its average net profit for the directly preceding 3 financial years on CSR activities
But not to genuinely social empowerment
They try to make the craft into industrial model without realizing that in craft, each product should be one of its kind.
Preferred CSR engagements that are in agreement with the overall CSR policy
Brand reputation
CSR activities take in consideration the religious aspect
Culture centered approach is taken by Corporate to aid the culture of the craft
Separate department for CRS
Lesser quantity and good quality instead of focusing on scale of production
Need assignment is done before starting a CSR activity
CSR activities take responsibility of all the stakeholders of the craft sector
4 corporate model of CSR activities ethical, statist, liberal , stakeholder model
Culture centered approach is taken by Corporate to aid the culture of the craft
Companies with a net worth of Rs. 500 crores or greater, or Companies with a turnover of Rs. 1000 crores or greater, or Companies with a net profit of Rs. 5 crores or greater
Insight 92
Activities of craft organizations
Help in enterprise formation
Social welfare of artisans
Support multiple occupations of craftsman
Ensure sales of handicrafts year-round
Analyze current market scope and presence of craft
Preserve and promote traditional art and craft of India
Market access and facilitation
Connect craftsmen directly to end consumer
Coordination between the artisans and the buyers
Promotion Income generation activities for craft person
Provide the opportunity to craftsmen
Provide financial assistance
Provide common facility centres
Provide quality control standard
Innovation and up-gradation in product
Skills enhancement
Organize domestic and International craft exhibitions
Finding right institutes to partner for craft uplifting
Research, document and help languishing crafts from rural India
Helps in infrastructure development
Organize demonstration programs
Provide design education
Effective input supply for production
Provide certification and promotion
Understand the challenges for its sustenance
Ensure sustenance of craft
Organize Workshop and Training programs for artisans
Workshops for children of craftsmen and other school children
Maintain quality in craft produced
Raise awareness and understanding of craft
Mapping and assessment of craft skills
Help in conservation of craft skills
Insight 93
How corporate supports craft sector?
Creative industries foster cultural diversity in the market
Involvement of corporates is forced by the government economic policies
Providing house/land registration for workshops and commercial spaces contributing economic sustainability of craft clusters
Cultural tourism uses targeted marketing to pique interest.
Insight 94
Role of Middlemen
Positives
Middlemen are bringing craft cluster into outer world
Initiatives are taken by middlemen
Medium of communication between maker and buyer
Gives greater opportunities to connect to the market
Provides exposure to artisans
Creates a channel of income for artisan
Brings knowledge about market demands
Middlemen revive and preserve crafts
Middlemen connects multiple customers
Negatives
Shares less percentage of profit with artisan
Middlemen brings gap between maker and consumer
Gives less exposure to artisans
Illiteracy of artisan is exploited by middlemen
Sell craft products to buyers at exorbitant price
Buys products from artisan at minimal price
Middlemen take away all the commission
Middlemen makes the craft expensive
Middlemen dominates craft sector
Middlemen create hierarchy between artisan and themselves
Gender Roles
Insight 95
Men in craft
Men do the physical works in craft
Whatever land was owned was registered in the names of men
When men migrate to cities, it is the women who stay behind to cultivate the family's field, thus providing economic security
Male members are engaged in traditional pursuits where Women dominate the craft industry to avail opportunities to make additional family income for the family members while . These don’t always account as enough for running respectable livelihoods.
Men were able to switch between craft and wage work
The owners of the financial stability was men
Insight 96
Women in craft -Issues
Discriminatory practices contribute to attitude of society that disregards contribution of women
Socio-economic status of women lower than male counterparts
Women do more intricate, ceremonial craft-work compared to men
Concept of "feminine" craft consuming time
Not represented in the formal industrial sector
Lack of leisure time
Face violence and restrictions in the family
Customary caste relationship and family kinship structures - shape women's work and entitlement
Mechanization tends to marginalize women
Market has a greater preference for male labour/work except for when female labour is cheaper
Lower wages for women in craft sector
Spousal violence affect work of women
Women's craft labour comes in addition to the daily household tasks and sometimes domestic work in homes of the upper caste
Women are restricted to craft-work(of economic value or for subsistence) when men can switch between craft-work and wage work
Only men are allowed to migrate to avail other economic opportunities, the women rarely leave their village.
Women’s traditional work sustains the family household giving men an opportunity to seek remunerative, more prestigious but uncertain employment
Unrecognized contribution of women in family well-being through craft
Women are treated as helpers
Gender bias and caste system affect development of women
Only 40 % of women are literate when men is at 74%
Women dominance in craft makes for additional family income
A sector that directly addresses women’s empowerment (over 23 lakh)
Insight 97
Handicrafts that women excel in
Handicraft Jewelry
Fabric weaving
Basket weaving
Pottery
Handmade utensils
Metal craft-bidri
Embroidery
Technology & Development
Insight 98
Design and Technology
Design and Technology Development Workshop
To develop new prototypes to suit the tastes and preferences of contemporary market using the traditional skill of artisans
Integrated design and technology development project
Design development, technology development, techniques/ process and formulation, and publication of crafts design/ craft technology to the large number of artisans for their skill upgradation
Assistance to exporter and entrepreneur for design prototype
Financial assistance is provided for development of design prototypes for exporters and entrepreneurs
Commercial market intelligence by way of design, trend and technical colour forecast
To increase the knowledge of the entire handicrafts sector about the new design trends & color forecasts so as to increase the exports from the country by increasing the new design led product.
Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS)
Insight 99
Human resource development
Training through established institutions
Aims at upgrading/imparting skills in different trade of handicrafts in a continuous and sustainable manner by creating an institutional framework
Handicrafts Training Program
To increase production base by involving more and more persons in this sector, large number of training programmes in hard and soft skills.
Technical skills and soft skills
Training through Guru Shishya Parampara
For handing over/transfer of traditional knowledge from master craftsmen to the new generation ensuring the sustenance of the craft. New/Semi-skilled artisans are provided training by master crafts persons.
Training the trainers
Master crafts persons /trainers are exposed to new designs, use of improved tools and new production techniques and technologies.
Design mentorship and apprentice program
Providing mentorship and learning to final year/graduate/post graduate students from reputed design institutes, recognized schools of fine arts and other premiere design institutes
Insight 100
Research and development
Survey and studies on different topics
Financial assistance for preparation of legal, para legal, standard, audits and other documentation leading to certification
Financial assistance to organizations for evolving, developing a mechanism for protecting crafts, design, heritage, historical knowledge, research and implementation of the same, enabling sector to face challenges
Conducting handicraft artisans census
GI registration
Assisting handicrafts exporters in adoption of global standards and for bar coding, including handicrafts mark for generic products.
Financial Assistance for taking up problems/ issues relating to brand building and promotion of Indian handicrafts.
Insight 101
Development of Rural craft/artisan
Hathkharga Samvardhan Sahayata (HSS)
Skill upgradation, improving productivity
Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS)
Intensive Handloom Development Programme
National Handicraft Development Programme
New skill development scheme - Samarth
Common Facility Centres
Craft Instructor Training Scheme(CITS)
Backward Region Grant Fund (BRGF)
Jyoti Gramodyog Vikas Yojna
Manav Kalyan Yojana
Gramodyog Vikas Kendra
Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana
“Pahchan” : linking unique artisan IDs to Aadhar cards
Insight 102
Infrastructure and Tech support
Urban Haat
To set up permanent marketing infrastructure in big towns or metropolitan cities
To enable them to sell round the year to a wider target audience
Mini Urban Haat
To set up permanent marketing infrastructure in towns or established tourist circuit
Emporium
Setting up emporium in commercially viable locations in implementing agencies own/rented building.
Marketing and Sourcing Hubs in Urban Areas
Set up marketing complexes in metropolitan as well as tier 2 cities to provide a marketing platform for buyers
Concept of one stop shopping
Design and Craft Schools
Formal institutional set up for imparting craft related skills
Handicraft Museum
To establish a platform to collect and preserve objects exhibiting exquisiteness in craftsmanship
Design Banks
To establish a collection of designs in electronic form
These banks provides details of raw material technology human skill set and cluster
Craft based resource centre
Resource center for one technical information, marketing intelligence, enterprise development, monitoring product information, raw and cluster information
Common Facility centre
To ensure economy of scale, price competitiveness, quality control, application of design and technology input in compliance with WTO compatible standards
Raw material depot
To make easy availability of quality, certified and graded raw material to artisans and entrepreneurs
Technology Upgradation Assistance to Exporters/ Entrepreneurs
To standardize/certify raw materials
Testing Laboratories
Crafts Village
Modern day concepts where craft promotion and tourism are being taken up at a single location
Integrated Handicraft Park
Permanent platform to bring urban populace and craft communities
Construction of Office buildings & revitalizing existing institutions, restructuring of regional design and technical centres, setting up of Hastkala Academy, construction of craft and office Complexes at Vasant Kunj and Okhla and any other infrastructure to be created at departmental level
Insight 103
Emergence of technology
Technology interventions are aimed at making processes more efficient and sustainable
Online platforms to sell products
Use of new energy sources
Increased opportunities in craft due to technological advancements
Important developments in transportation and communication,
The invention of new machines
Employment opportunity through digital storytelling for unemployed youth.
Technology has made sharing, trading, consuming creative goods easier
The increasing application of science to industry.
Use of new basic/composite materials in crafts
’JUTE - SMART’ is a digital platform where farmers can promote certified seeds, agronomic practices & use of microbial reusing of the jute plant.
A new organization of work known as the factory system, which entailed increased division of labour and specialization of function
Marketing
Insight 104
Marketing support and services
Domestic Marketing events
Assistance for organizing/participation in marketing events in India.
Gandhi Shilp Bazaar/Craft Bazaars
Exhibitions
Hiring of built up space in events organized by other organizations
National Handicrafts Fair
Craft Awareness Programme
Conducting of workshops/seminars on issues of specific nature relating to handicrafts sector
Demonstration programme
Assistance for organizing/ participation in marketing events abroad
Participation in international fairs and exhibitions
Folk craft festivals
Market studies abroad/ international craft exposure program
Cultural exchange program
Buyer seller meet in India and abroad
Marketing workshops
Seminars and symposiums abroad
Rental for warehousing
Financial support for renting warehouses abroad
Publicity and brand promotion
Publicity through print and electronic media
Web marketing
Insight 105
Initiatives for craft
Production
Higher impact of manufacturer's and retailer's prestige/services on the sale of product
Demand for variation in products and change in style & design
Insufficient and unsystematic data on production and sales
Commercialization of the products
Cultural industries comprise creation, production,
IOU Project: a brand that connects the consumers with the producers
Development
UNESCO helps and encourages study of creative industries sector.
Increased industrialization craft
Increased globalization of craft
Increasing urbanization of craft
Registering adds to commercial value by increasing consumer recognition.
Focus on upliftment of traditional skills
Marketing
CSR help set long term goals for the artisan by providing exposure.
High paced market offer greater opportunity as well as threat to producers
Cooperative societies aid product marketing
Help to Understanding Global market trends
Promote economically viable craft based business
Access to urban markets through designers, NGOs and brands
Insight 106
E-Commerce
Artisans and partners also sell their products by their own individual brand names on the site
Knowledge resource for crafts
Develops a creative and sustainable model for craftspeople
Showcase crafts from remote corners of India
Educate consumers about the various craft in the country
Bridging the gap between the maker and the consumer
School Curriculum
Insight 107
Importance of including craft in school curriculum
The Awareness and education about art and artisans from the school stage is good but difficult.
Should teach 360-degree view about the craft.
Teaching about ergonomics.
Design education brings awareness to students by making them experience and make the craft & empathize.
Awareness of empathy in schools to be introduced.
Awareness can also be spread amongst kids through direct exposure to local culture.
Insight 108
Cognitive Benefits
Supports personal, social, moral, spiritual, cultural and creative development, and enables participants to engage with and explore visual, tactile and other sensory experiences and how to recognise and communicate ideas and meanings
Better decision making skills
Sharpen memory
Sharpen creativity
Enhance visualization
Opening door for opportunities
It enable them to learn how to reflect critically on their own and others’ work
It enable them to learn how to reflect critically on their own and others’ work
Helps to understand the properties of a wide range of tools, machines, materials and systems
Insight 109
Social Benefits
These opportunities enable them to work with traditional and new media, so that they develop confidence, competence, imagination and creativity.
Learn to appreciate art & culture
Enhances self-expression
Boost confidence
Helps in socialising
Learn to be empathetic
Helps to engage with and explore visual, tactile and other sensory experiences and how to recognise and communicate ideas and meanings.
Enable them to learn how to reflect critically on their own and others’ work
Insight 110
Physical Benefits
Development of fine motor skills
Improvement of hand-eye coordination
Improvement in health
Development of fine motor skills
Enhances dexterity
Improvement of hand-eye coordination
Insight 111
Awareness in design students
Process
Involvement
Observations
Active-passive participation
Practicals
Prominent Initiatives
Insight 112
INDEXT-C - Industrial extension cottage
Mainly work for marketing of crafts and training of artisans. ( Market linkage, Bank linkage, Buyer linkage)
Organizing cottage and rural industrial sector
Marketing
Provides shops for rent for the artisans for 15 days
Provide necessary information for the craftsman
Helping artisans to create sellable products
No criteria needed for selection of artisans for artisan card, Mela or Haat
32k + artisans are registered under artisan I-card scheme
District industry centre has an online portal for applying for I-card.
Advertisement in radio, newspaper, billboards etc.
5-7 large scale (250 artisans) fairs across India per year
50 small scale fairs (5-7 days event)
Training
Call master craftsmen to teach new techniques
Create guidance
Creating curriculum depends on the artisan’s skillset
Students are not directly involved in training.
Insight 113
I owe U Project
A brand that connects the consumers with the producers.
Consumers “owe” the producers rather than simply acknowledging
They work with craftsmen from south India as well as Spain and Italy.
Raising awareness of marginalized people that they have the right to use the resources freely and on their own terms.
Raising the artisan’s own value of their craft.
IOU pays higher wage that government price
Transparency & Traceability creates relationship b/w consumer & producer
Internet as a tool of online story telling.
Educating the consumers about cross cultural production and consumption
Highlights individual weaver through text, photograph and video.
Each product sold is accompanied with IOU story
IOU communicates story of product through text & visuals
IOU story identifies the product with its weaver and tailor
Increase in consumer understanding of the production side of supply chain
A simple consumer thank you note gives a sense of pride and accomplishment for the weavers
Thank you notes are videos made by consumers uploaded to the IOU blog
Empowering consumers to become trunk show hosts
IOU’s a local and traditional handmade products as an encouragement strategy that encourages responsible consumption
Online videos bring a weaver in contact with a larger global realm.
The lack of internet access does not affect the weavers as they communicate amongst themselves
Artisans in the limelight helps give them individual credit and acknowledge their craft practice
Empowering weaver as the designer
Craftspeople get freedom and the functioning to produce craft to the best of their ability.
Developing their craft as something they value and have reason to value.
Not undermining the weavers aesthetic sense
Visibility gives responsibilities to the craftsmen
Lack of access to the internet affects the weaver’s participation in the sale of goods in the international market
Possibility of providing computers with internet access to each craft community
Craftspeople lack dignity to be able to speak back to the IOU’s online community
Lack of insight into the possibility of the producer empowered as the consumer
Instead of changing the perspective of the consumer on the craftspeople, it reinstates the already existing backward notion
Industrialization causes shriveling of handicraft production
Cultivation of sensitivity and mellowing humbleness is a sign of the growth of craft
Focus on individual craft is the opposite of ethos of Indian craft which is about pluralism and coexistence
Craft that shifts from handmade to factory produced involves a loss of technical skill.
Insight 114
SASHA
Sasha Association for Craft Producers (SACP)
Sarba Shanti Ayog (SSA)
Sasha Textile Artisans Association (STAA)
Ruro Agro Services Association (RASA)
The Sasha business model is built on the principles of equity, transparency, social justice and environmental concern.
Strengthen, support, and expand market opportunities for artisans
To ensure dignity of labour
Design development and research in traditional arts/crafts
Artisans - especially women - were exploited by middlemen, and the craft they practiced was fast losing its identity to cater to market demands
Customers had no idea about what they were buying and artisans had no idea who was buying their products.
To establish linkages of traditional skills with the global market
To improve employability of existing workers, school dropouts etc.
Organizing workshops and exhibitions both in India and abroad facilitates a more equal relationship between artisans and their customers .
Helping revive traditional designs
Artisan groups are encouraged to explore local markets and offered assistance to take part in exhibitions
To create prosperity through empowering and providing livelihood opportunities for craft groups and marginalized communities residing in India.
Holistic support helps them enter and thrive in international markets
Promote fair trade as a way of life
External Input
Lack of linkage with institutes
Changes in the national infrastructure displaced traditional occupations and populations
No special committee to address artisans problem
Negative effects of third party between customer and artisan
R&D connection is missing
Tourism and Market
Insight 115
Tourism through craft
Traditional crafts are a tourist attraction
Mass tourism facilitates higher sale of craft in region.
Craft tourism promotes cultural exchange.
Ecotourism, rural & cultural tourism challenge mass tourism
Sustainable tourism supports craft & environment
Craft tourism empowers rural women to promote gender equality
Rural tourism is economically and socially beneficial for craft community
Cultural tourism prompts better living conditions of grassroots.
70% of Indian handicraft exports are to compliance conscious markets
Local craft play a role of souvenirs for tourists
Insight 116
Market of the craft sector
Demand
Uniqueness of the product
Cultural relevance to the user
Hype created by the brand
Pride in local produce
Sustainable products
Business and marketing
Promotion of Co-operative scheme
Marketing Support and Service Scheme
Policies of export procedures for crafts
Export Promotion Scheme
Craft Buisness Development Scheme(CBDC)
Supplier Region Companies
SRC is economically beneficial which loses ethos of craft
SRC neglects role of craft and it’s relationship with community
Fabindia
Fabindia uses inclusive capitalism model to redraw relationship b/w producer & company
Fabindia- focuses on the social aspects of craft
Fabindia products are craft based, hand done, natural & contemporary
Fabindia works with 40,000 craft families
Fabindia claims it’s inclusive capitalism is benefiting crafts people
Fabindia says the poor themselves will recover from poverty/inequality rather than technocratic elites.
In 2007, Fabindia set up 18 Supplier Region Companies(SRC) as a value adding intermediaries between Fabindia and the artisan.
The SRCs are the companies in which the artisans hold shares.
The system is networked which allows the craftspeople to have direct access to their suppliers, the AMFl and the economic market Might though their access to the consumer market is limited.
The Artisan Micro FinancePvt. Ltd is a subsidiary of fabindia, assists in the running of the SRCs.
Its duties include the management and infrastructure of each SRC.
It provides capital and loan to the artisans and helps in the design of the product.
Allows individuals artisans to be shareholders.
Negatives of the market
Absence of market intelligence
Lack of organized data on domestic market, makes it difficult to analyse and evaluate growth of domestic market
Competitive & attractive product range on other sales platforms
Loss of traditional market due volume manufacturing
Inadequate market support and promotions
Inadequate economic returns and social status
Lack of demand for handloom products in market
Absence of a viable market makes traditional craft skills live only in museums.
Loss in the market affects artisans' livelihood and sense of identity.
Lack of standardization and benchmark skills reduce competence in global market
Elimination of quota system will lead to fluctuations in export demand
Lack of compliance consciousness in Indian market
Lack of trade membership