Daily Calendar | Design Drawing and Studio Skills | Modeling | ISU [Mechanical or Industrial Design] | Architectural / Interior Design | Summative 

The modeling we will be doing in TDJ4M will be architectural modeling and reflect the following:

• Small Scale solid models: are on the scale of 1/32" = 1-0' to 1/8"=1-0'. They show very little detail other than the shell of the object and mostly demonstrate how the building will relate to it's outside environment. Typically these are the landscape models.

• Structural models: are on the scale of 1/2" = 1-0' or 1" = 1-0'. They show the construction features of a building. All structural materials are cut to scale and proper building methods represented when making the model. That is to say, framing and load-bearing considerations are adhered to. Since the purpose of the structural model is to show basic construction, the walls and siding and roofing are kept off.

• Presentation models: are used to show the finished appearance of the building. Construction of these is generally on the 1/4" = 1-0' scale, though they may be larger or smaller to accommodate the building being modeled.

The order of construction of model building is:

1. First print off the plan(s) for the building. They may either be printed to scale and materials traced off of them, or a scale ruler is used as construction takes place.

2. The base of the model is cut (typically plywood). Generally the base is 30"x30" or 30"x36" for a residence which is easily portable.

3. After studying the floor plan and elevations, select a piece of material that is the appropriate thickness for the exterior walls. Lay out the length of the exterior wall and any openings like doors and windows. It is crucial ALL relevant dimensions are adhered to. By forgetting to incorporate wall overlap you wind up having the overall model be the wrong size. Corners may be mitered or butt-jointed, but mitered corners are typically neater.

4. Once all exterior walls are built lay out interior walls. Remember, they'll typically be 1/2 the width of an exterior wall.

5. Apply trim around windows and doors. Insert exterior doors. Window glass may be installed. Best suited for this is either very thin Plexiglas or thick overhead transparencies. Exterior siding such as brick or vinyl may be made, or bought at commercial modelers. Homemade versions of typical sidings can be found here. Tricks to make wood siding, plaster and stucco, stone and brick as well as roofing material are all there.

6. Interior and exterior are painted using tempera paints. Careful to use light pastel colours as dark colours typically do not look realistic. Do not paint illustration board.

7. Roof construction is typically one of the most satisfying parts of model making. Since roof framing is not seen in the model, it is not necessary to cut each rafter or ceiling joist. Lay out the gable ends (or if it is a hip roof, pretend where the hip starts is a gable end), and cut them out. Cut ridge boards from the same stock and glue them in place at the peaks of the gables. Pins can be used to hold the sheets in place until the glue dries. Thin strips of material should be used to represent the fascia board. Finally roof material may be modeled by gluing strips of sandpaper or other realistic roofing material to the sheathing. Don't forget to model the flashing with aluminum foil.

• After the floor area has been painted, locate the model on the base and glue it in place. Paint the area surrounding the house green. For best results you can put two layers and sprinkle grass flock before the 2nd coat dries. Trees, shrubs, driveways and walkways can be modeled then. If you don't wish to purchase these, they can easily be made from cut pieces of sponge and twigs. Don't add so many plants that the landscape looks cluttered.

• Interior components are best modeled from card-stock and/or cut from soap and balsa and/or basswood.