Han Wudi used Zhang Qian's [talk to the student working on Task A about who this person is] report to extend Chinese military power deep into Central Asia. A string of Chinese fortresses and checkpoints soon reached to Afghanistan. Diplomatic and commercial relations between the Chinese and the nomads increased. At the heart of these contacts was the exchange of horses from the nomads (called "tribute" by the Chinese) for silk from China (called "gifts" by the Chinese). The disguised trade of horses for silk along routes newly secured by the Chinese marks the opening of the Silk Road. One aspect of this trade is illustrated in the table.
Note: 1 catty equals approximately 1/2 lb.
A passage from the historian Cassius Dio (164—224 CE.) describes the huge celebration that Julius Caesar staged in his own honor around 50 B.C.E.
If I mention one feature of his [Caesar's] extravagance at that time, I shall thereby give an idea of all the rest. In order that the sun might not annoy any of the spectators, he had curtains stretched over them made of silk, according to some accounts. Now this fabric is a device of barbarian luxury, and has come down from them even to us to gratify the fastidious taste of fine ladies.
The excerpt from Seneca, a leading writer of the 1st century C.E., typifies much Roman writing about silk.
I see there raiments [clothing] of silk—if that can be called raiment, which provides nothing that could possibly afford protection for the body, or indeed modesty, so that, when a woman wears it, she can scarcely, with a clear conscience, swear that she is not naked. These are imported at vast expense from nations unknown even to trade, in order that our married women may not be able to show more of their persons, even to their paramours, in a bedroom than they do on the street.
Suetonius, a leading historian of the 2nd century C.E., describes the clothing worn by Emperor Gaius (nicknamed "Caligula," who reigned briefly in the 1st century.)
Caligula paid no attention to traditional or current fashions in his dress; ignoring male conventions and even the human decencies. Often he made public appearances in a cloak covered with embroidery and encrusted with precious stones, a long-sleeved tunic and bracelets; or in silk (which men were forbidden by law to wear) or even in a woman's robe; and came shod sometimes with slippers, sometimes with buskins, sometimes with military boots, sometimes with women's shoes. Occasionally he affected a golden beard and carried Jupiter's thunderbolt, Neptune's trident, or Mercury's serpent-twined staff. He even dressed up as Venus and, long before his expedition, wore the uniform of a triumphant general, often embellished with the breastplate which he had stolen from Alexander the Great's tomb at Alexandria. ...
The complicated process of producing fine cloth from the substance secreted by a tiny domesticated worm (Bombyx mori) was invented by the Chinese thousands of years ago. Called "sericulture," the process remained a Chinese monopoly until the end of the classical period, when the technique spread to other East Asian countries and then westward toward the Mediterranean.
Chinese women were probably the world's earliest producers of silk. They remained in charge of production throughout the classical period and beyond. The women worked at home, usually assisted by their children. Steaming the cocoons killed the silkworms before they could chew through the fiber (thus destroying or greatly reducing its value) and also served to loosen the fiber in preparation for reeling and twisting it into a sturdy yarn.
During the Han Dynasty, silk became somewhat of a currency. There are for instance documents from this era telling us about farmers who paid their taxes in grain and silk. When taxes were paid in silk, it also meant that the state would make its payments in silk, and civil servants could for instance get their salary in the form of silk. The cost of something could be described using lengths of silk as the unit of measurement, just like many other societies would use weight units of gold or silver.
The Chinese produced many grades of silk. Lesser grades were inexpensive and worn by ordinary people; silk padding (called "floss") was a good insulator against the winter cold. In contrast, the silk that reached Rome was high-end material and always regarded as a luxury.
Steaming cocoons in a cocoon-steaming basket, Chinese illustration, dated 1696.
Fresco from Herculaneum depicting a Roman banquet. (50-79 CE).
Why did the Chinese emperors insist on disguising the trade with the Xiongnu as giving “gifts” and receiving “tribute”?
Identify a trend from the data provided in the table and explain why trend occurred.
For the Romans, how did the wearing of silk seem to be related to conceptions of masculinity and femininity?
In what ways does the Roman writing about silk suggest broader political, economic, and social changes underway at the beginning of the Common Era (C.E.)?
Taken together, what do the three images suggest about the differing codes of behavior for women in China and Rome?